Видео

I appreciate the viewpoint. I agree gridfinity is great for getting organisation where there's something that doesnt exist but then there's plenty of drawer organisers out there as well so where would we use it? Although it's not quite as big, I can't get a Stanley sort master for cheaper than $19 and this case cost about $4 so for price it's a winner. Time wise, it would have been a lot less to go buy something or even order one with next day delivery. The way I've ended up using this though is more of a job to job carry case. I already have gridfinity in some drawers in the garage where everything lives permanently and If I'm doing something away from there, I can use this case, grab the boxes of stuff I need from the drawers and take it to where ever I'm doing something so works out great. You could probably do something similar with a store bought case but this way, all the gridfinity boxes I use inside as well in my office drawers and at my maker table are interchangeable and I dont need to replace all those. That's the beauty of gridfinity and 3d printing in general I guess. Whatever we need for our own situation is what makes sense.

👍

the plastic slides work great on these though

if it’s near an oven or any heat, I’d take care what plastic to use or like you said, cnc out of wood would be a better option. away from heat though, they’d work fine for cutlery for sure. I do have some cutlery boxes in my drawers and the knife drawer has been a problem. the back and forth of the drawer causes the point of the knives to hit the back and over time can wedge in and seperate along the layer lines. A quick printed plate to protect it that can be reprinted quick fixes that

Thanks so much! 😊

I found out afterthat video it was removed from the marketplace but you can still download it and install it manually. I mentioned in a follow up video here ruclips.net/video/rzr3FVAZtbk/видео.html but you can go direct to the download page on Github which has the instructions github.com/5axes/tabplus

@@3DPrintSmith Cool, thank you!

Glad you liked it!

I've seen a few people try that but they can get expensive and I was trying to do it super cheap. if you can get them for under $50 though it's definately a cheap option worth trying.

I had thought of doing it dry in a blender but I think doing with water then absorption might be a problem there and the resulting chunks wouldn’t be much use.

@@3DPrintSmith You obviously have to dry it after shredding, but presumably you have a filament dryer/food dehydrator. Without the water, heating is likely to make it a gummy mess rather than brittle like you need it.

@@daliasprints9798 I've seen a few people do it dry and doesnt seem to have a problem with heat. You'd need to start drying pretty quickly, with the smaller particles I imagine they'd start soaking quicker. Theres a point where the plastic is going to absorb too much water and the structure of the plastic is compromised, becoming less effective for what you'd be using it for next. Having said all that though I havent tried it so I cant say from any point of authority there ! Worth a try to see what happens.

@@3DPrintSmith "The structure of the plastic" is not compromised by water. The problem with moisture is that it will boil and bubble while printing or attempting to melt and mold the plastic, and the bubbles leave gaps that compromise the structure of your final part. But there is no chemical damage to the plastic from having been wet. Moreover, as long as you take the shred out of water right away, the only water will be at the surface and easily removed by a dryer.

large cardboard box as enclosure and ASA instead of ABS

ASA is definitely better for withstanding weather and UV so could be a viable option. I can’t say from experience because I’ve not tried it myself but supposed to have better adhesion as well. For an outboard motor, even though it‘ll be electric, ASA also is better chemical resistance too.

Yeah I have a few spools ASA and it's q pain in the rear. The shrinking factor is even larger than ABS, meaning warping is even worse. I like ASA for small parts but for bigger it's a warping nightmare even with a heated enclosure at 60C. I just can't print any larger functional parts over a few centimeters. Many of my parts are between 500g-1kg, so ASA is just not usable.

Thanks for watching!

Heated chamber and tons of heat. The core issue is the part cooling, creating internal stresses after each layer. Still if you do, it's never gonna be as good as PETG in layer adhesion since the shrinking factor is too high. If you know any good alternative, a filament without warping that takes over 100C before losing its strength let me know.

thanks for the model. Its something people printing at home are really looking for because there's no way to recycle yourself right now for under a thousand bucks. This model will really help everyone.

I dont have a bambu but I did do a few blobs that would be similar and they went through well like the support material but I'm not sure if they are as big as a standard bambu poop.

yeah, I was thinking of doing a remix with a standard size rectangular metal tube as an insert. It might do away with the need for the metal ruler if its a close enough fit.

Glad you enjoyed it ! thanks !

I had to use them today with an unusual model and some old ABS that did t want to cooperate!

just found the model on Printables and I’ll give it a go :-)

Yea petg seems to work great for me

That would be one strong little action figure

@@3DPrintSmith the PC has a little more surface friction, it holds positions pretty well without being too tight. I dunno, experiments!

@@CGreciful 100% ! exactly why i tried TPU to see if the experiment resulted in what we would think. Sometimes we get saurprised 🙂

the original version I printed would struggle with 500g I think. check the remixes though for different arms with bigger teeth that would hold that joint better and I think it would work.

@@3DPrintSmith ok, thanks

thanks ! ☺️

@@3DPrintSmith one Video idea, bunch of tricks in slicers, chance the image on the plate, custom shortcuts, maaan the navigation in prusa slicer just kills my mood, specially coming from blender controls, I don’t understand the presets, right now I have like 2 system presets, 3 user presets and then 5 physical printers (although I only have one printer), whole thing is just confusing

if I need to, I set the height manually so what ever the first layer is or if you want 2 layers high first layer plus next layer.

ahhh I forgot to mention pre heating the bed. I found that can help sometimes when it’s really cold too.

no problem, that’s for watching :-)

that’s great.

Good points and a few people I know have adjusted various profiles specifically for fans. I think it’s a big one that gets overlooked.

Glad it was helpful!

I’ve been thinking of doing a video on the paper method if everyone thinks it’s worth it

@@3DPrintSmith That'd be interesting but the problem with paper method that it's subjective and it's somewhat hard to understand results after specific 'pressure'. It'd be nice to see a video with examples like: extruder too low, too high, optimal. With one-two poorly aligned corners and test prints with specific cases. And overview of test models for aligning corners (the ones that look like 1-2 layer thick planes fitting bed size). Not sure if it's optimal for a video though.

I’ll put it on the list of videos to make. I actually use a feeler gauge when I do it in case I use paper with different thickness and then do one of the huge square test prints. that’s the way I do it and works for me and people can take from it what they want. I’ll figure something out :-)

yeah sounds like it’s when large prints are taking too long to get the next layer on. A thick raft can help protect even if it does lift. If it were me I’d try these in order I think they’d make a difference - design supports into the model to help with holding it down - cut the print into seperate parts that print quicker and join them later. - seal and heat the enclosure might work too.

one of the lucky ones 😀

I know it works well for some but too much of a mess for me.

@@3DPrintSmith If its messy you used too much. The light has to be right to see the glue on the surface. Thats how little I use.

Have got into a sticky situation when the print adheres a little too well with the bed. Still, that is why printers come with scrapers 😂

@@robdavis8556be carefull with the metal scrapers. I put a scratch in a plate once and had to be carefull where I printed after that because the scratch would show on the first layer.

yeah I saw that after I made this. I actually found an easier way for n prusaslicer that I’ll release a video on soon

Thanks! I have to disagree with you though on bed temp. From experience as well as filament manufacturer recommendations. The lower layers being warmer gives them the chance to cool and shrink WITH the new layers on top. What works for me though may not work for everyone so I think I’ll stop recommending anything in future 😊 ! !

@@3DPrintSmith I think your right. There is such a thing as too low or too high of a bed temp so think we are both right here depending on situation.

I’ve been trying to find anything about this online but so far turned up nothing. Do you mean bad for the bed or people? no doubt it’s harsher than dish soap and water it it’s what’s in a lot of hand sanitizers and recommended and used for years by 3d printers globally. If I’m using something that’s proven bad and recommending it I genuinely want to read the articles so if anyone has anything please let me know some links so I can research more.

@@3DPrintSmith when i have some time ill try and dig some stuff up

THANKY YOU! I was thinking the same! 👍 Are you aware that pretty much all panels are covered with thermal adhesive, which you wipe off with alcohol?! It's clear that your prints won't hold up...then the full professionals come and use glue sticks, clean the plate again and then need glue sticks again because they wiped off the thermal glue... Sorry, that's ridiculous, we have various printers standing around here where many of them run 24/7, we don't have a problem with the corners or hold in place, stop with the alcohol stuff... by the way, most of the disks also say no cleaning products etc to use. Plate comes with Glue....guys, lets remove this glue...Iso/Glue/Iso/Glue/IsoGlue/Iso lol

Whatever you can use to clean the bed doesnt have to be Isopropyl Alcohol, warm soapy water and a good rinse works too. The IA is to disolve anything on the bed to make it easy for a cloth to pick it up and not just smear it all over. Dries off super quick and leaves no residue so works every time I need it to. Not sure why I wouldnt use it being the most widely accepted cleaner for electronics and work surfaces.

@@3DPrintSmith elrim explained that because of the thermal adhesive, which is removed with cleaning agents, it is activated when heated. This glue is removed when cleaning...which is very expensive by the way. You can also easily test this yourself, take a new glass plate and rub one side with ISO or cleaning agent and one side not... You will see A: A white film, that is the chemical reaction of the glue dissolving and B : Your prints will no longer hold or will only hold up weakly... stop using cleaning agents, especially those with alcohol... only makes the glue manufacturers happy...

I'll have to look that up because I've never heard of thermal glue being used on any build plates I've never used glass plates though and dont have one to test so I'll have to take your word for it. All I know is I use IA from time to time to clean my PEI plate and if there's anything on it stopping a corner from sticking, 99% of the time it will stick after a clean and no residue there. I had one magnetic plate last I dont know how many thousands of prints on it with only a wipe over every 1 or 2 months for about 3 years. I think from all the comments I've seen so far, I have to say if it works for you and your setup then keep doing what you're doing.

@elriem-vm6yc do you know where I can find more info about the thermal glue coating? I haven’t been able to find anything on that. I agree with the no glue and I’d never recommend adding anything to help things stick. making sure the bed is clean and free of anything works for me.

From all the comments I've been getting I'll just say if it works go for it. I've definately found increased bed temp for ABS is a must.

yeah I’m making a video on this today. they’ve been staring me in the face for who knows how long !

the idea of the alcohol is to make it easier to wipe off. for me that works great. I never use glue because the few times that I have it left a mess on the bed and on the print but I know it works for a lot of people is if it’s your preferred go for it.

Thanks for the sub! I don’t like using glue but I’ve baby sat a few prints holding down a corner with a long skewer until there’s enough material to stop it curling. Even used masking tape once or twice. I would nt recommend either method but whatever works for people and they find the best for them is what I’d recommend.

this is what ive done as well, until seeing this video and reading its comments. Dollar store will miss my weekly gluestick\toothpick purchases from here on out. lol.

I’ve not tried a glass plate myself but a friend that has one does the same. I’m not keen on it though to be honest but if it works for you then definitely go for it.

What a great point, I had only thought of the brim as a physical anchor to the plate while attached to the print but you're right it would help to keep the bed around the print warm as well and keep the print edge warmer as well.

@3DPrintSmith my pleasure. Love this trick since I stated using it there's a setting for it in cura. I've found it highly reliable at preventing lifting around corners etc, and no more running a blade around the edge of the print to tidy up after brim removal!

Glad I could help!

glad you liked it. thanks

I found out that the slicer that Prucaslicer was based on (Slic3r) had mouse ears added just after pusaslicer was forked off. Good to know other slicers make it easier just not Pusaslicer !