Pause the print when higher than your magnet, then place magnets on the corner mice ears or brim. This creates a strong retention when printing on a ferris bed.
yeah, you'd need to make the brim fairly thick which would probably defeat the purpose. Too thin and there's risk of demagnetising the bed (I'm sure I saw a video on that recently somewhere). Magnets can get stuck to the nozzle too if your arent carefull.
Very good. Subscribed. When I do get a corner lifting and your earlier enough, I use a toothpick to apply some glue stick under it and push it back down.
Thanks for the sub! I don’t like using glue but I’ve baby sat a few prints holding down a corner with a long skewer until there’s enough material to stop it curling. Even used masking tape once or twice. I would nt recommend either method but whatever works for people and they find the best for them is what I’d recommend.
this is what ive done as well, until seeing this video and reading its comments. Dollar store will miss my weekly gluestick\toothpick purchases from here on out. lol.
Make sure Z offset is spot on, slightly too much squish is better than too little. Don't print hotter than you need to, lower the nozzle temp the smaller the temp differential.
I think I wrongly asssumed everyone would already check bed level and zoffset but you're right, I should of made that clear as the first step. I was thinking of making a video on bed leveling and z offset. Do you actually set z offset in slicer or on your printer? I'm in the camp that if the bed is levelled with the hardware adjustments, you shouldnt need to be adjusting offset. I'm curious as a lot of people seem to be talking about z offset rather than physical levelling in recent months.
One thing i like to do with brims for effortless removal of them is to change the setting specifying the distance between the brim and the print setting a big distancd means the brim doesnt adhere to the model but the thermal properties are largely retained keeping the glass around troublesome areas lime corners warmer...this almost always works perfectly for me when a brim us needed for such reasons and is pretty much as easy to remove as a skirt!
What a great point, I had only thought of the brim as a physical anchor to the plate while attached to the print but you're right it would help to keep the bed around the print warm as well and keep the print edge warmer as well.
@3DPrintSmith my pleasure. Love this trick since I stated using it there's a setting for it in cura. I've found it highly reliable at preventing lifting around corners etc, and no more running a blade around the edge of the print to tidy up after brim removal!
I found out that the slicer that Prucaslicer was based on (Slic3r) had mouse ears added just after pusaslicer was forked off. Good to know other slicers make it easier just not Pusaslicer !
Feel like the biggest thing causing lifting corners/warping early layers is TOO MUCH cooling. Touching on turning the fans down is good, but for example, BambuLab's default profiles for PLA and PETG have the auxiliary cooling fan that blows horizontally across the bed (assuming your printer has it) set to run at 90% fan speed after the first layer. I usually drop it to 10% or just turn it completely off, especially on prints where the first few layers are quite large. You also have to remember: while turning up the temperature of the bed might sound beneficial, it's only going to increase the differential between the material temperature and the ambient air/cooling fan air temperature. And I'm pretty sure whatever material you're printing will basically insulate itself from a secondary cooling fan the further it gets from the edges of the part being printed.
Thank you so much I'm brand new to printing and I'm using petg atm and three quarters of my print corners were lifting. The raft tab thingy isn't available in the new version of cura but basic raft will save my prints.
its mostly z-offset, abs for example needs a very good squeeze. it's right when you have to scrape it off from PEI plate. but instead of scraping, use some IPA to release it, works better if you use 3dlack before. forget perfect first layer, you want more material there, it will flatten out in the next layers. also find the max bed temp, when the first layers look like material squeezed out, reduce bed temp by 5°C. also measure the bed temp with a laser, may be different from printer sensor. also do your bed leveling while bed is hot, it warps under heat and is totally different at 100° compared to 60°. place the parts in the most flat area.
bed leveling while hot was definitely something I should of included. I’m thinking of doing another video just on bed levelling for beginners. I saw one person on a forum recently that looked like they were leveling just in the center of the bed somehow. needless to say one whole side was high and the other was super low.
Its a Deburring tool. I got this one from Amazon that comes with some extra blades. amzn.to/4d7t2Xe. They can debur metal as well so you just have to be a little carefull not to go too deep and start carving into it. If you've got some failed prints its good to practice a few times first.
How do you work mouse ear height when first layer is not the same as layer height? Slicers can’t do fractional layer heights … and this can mess up dimensions in a print so I’m curious how best to manage it for the mouse ears?
@@robdavis8556be carefull with the metal scrapers. I put a scratch in a plate once and had to be carefull where I printed after that because the scratch would show on the first layer.
I’ve not tried a glass plate myself but a friend that has one does the same. I’m not keen on it though to be honest but if it works for you then definitely go for it.
In my case a poorly leveled bed caused this problem and after few screw turns this formerly loose corner now sticks harder than needed, heh... I'm yet to get hand of how of "sheet of paper" leveling technique.
@@3DPrintSmith That'd be interesting but the problem with paper method that it's subjective and it's somewhat hard to understand results after specific 'pressure'. It'd be nice to see a video with examples like: extruder too low, too high, optimal. With one-two poorly aligned corners and test prints with specific cases. And overview of test models for aligning corners (the ones that look like 1-2 layer thick planes fitting bed size). Not sure if it's optimal for a video though.
I’ll put it on the list of videos to make. I actually use a feeler gauge when I do it in case I use paper with different thickness and then do one of the huge square test prints. that’s the way I do it and works for me and people can take from it what they want. I’ll figure something out :-)
That's unexpected ! I installed it about a year ago and looks like it's not in the marketplace anymore so I'll do some research and see what happened. I'll comment in here where you can get it.
I have good news ! It looks like the author of the plugin isnt registered in the marketplace anymore but, I found the project on github github.com/5axes/tabplus and there's still a link to the marketplace but it doesnt work anymore. The good news is you can still install the plugin manually. The instructions are on the github page and it's pretty straight forward. Basically download and unzip the package into the plugin folder for Cura. I'll try on another machine I've got a little later to make sure.
FWIW, I've tried all these proposals and keeping the cooling fan off during the earliest layers is what seems to work the best for me, when dealing with PETG. But I have run into apparent bugs in PrusaSlicer where the fan commands in the gcode don't seem to wind up matching what I have set in the settings. So it does require some fiddling around to get the fan speed actually where I want it. (Maybe I just don't understand the settings well enough, but it really does look like buggy behavior to me). Interestingly, I find that I have the most trouble with corners curling when printing objects that are larger and thicker. I would've thought these would resist curling more, because of the extra mass and so slower cooling away from the fan. But I think instead, the lighter/thinner/smaller models advance Z more quickly, which lets the model get built up higher, fast enough that it's already reasonably solid before the curling can overwhelm the bed adhesion.
yeah sounds like it’s when large prints are taking too long to get the next layer on. A thick raft can help protect even if it does lift. If it were me I’d try these in order I think they’d make a difference - design supports into the model to help with holding it down - cut the print into seperate parts that print quicker and join them later. - seal and heat the enclosure might work too.
I've never really tried draft shields. The tight ass in me wouldnt want to waste the filament even though it's going to be a pretty small amount. How wide do you generally make them?
I found out afterthat video it was removed from the marketplace but you can still download it and install it manually. I mentioned in a follow up video here ruclips.net/video/rzr3FVAZtbk/видео.html but you can go direct to the download page on Github which has the instructions github.com/5axes/tabplus
Good video, just want to point out bed temp should be lower not higher to reduce warping. The parts warp as the top layers cool (and shrink) and pull the non solid bottom layers up. By lowering bed temp the bottom layers become more solid and less likely to be pulled up, but will stick less to the bed, so glue is recommended.
Thanks! I have to disagree with you though on bed temp. From experience as well as filament manufacturer recommendations. The lower layers being warmer gives them the chance to cool and shrink WITH the new layers on top. What works for me though may not work for everyone so I think I’ll stop recommending anything in future 😊 ! !
THANKY YOU! I was thinking the same! 👍 Are you aware that pretty much all panels are covered with thermal adhesive, which you wipe off with alcohol?! It's clear that your prints won't hold up...then the full professionals come and use glue sticks, clean the plate again and then need glue sticks again because they wiped off the thermal glue... Sorry, that's ridiculous, we have various printers standing around here where many of them run 24/7, we don't have a problem with the corners or hold in place, stop with the alcohol stuff... by the way, most of the disks also say no cleaning products etc to use. Plate comes with Glue....guys, lets remove this glue...Iso/Glue/Iso/Glue/IsoGlue/Iso lol
Whatever you can use to clean the bed doesnt have to be Isopropyl Alcohol, warm soapy water and a good rinse works too. The IA is to disolve anything on the bed to make it easy for a cloth to pick it up and not just smear it all over. Dries off super quick and leaves no residue so works every time I need it to. Not sure why I wouldnt use it being the most widely accepted cleaner for electronics and work surfaces.
@@3DPrintSmith elrim explained that because of the thermal adhesive, which is removed with cleaning agents, it is activated when heated. This glue is removed when cleaning...which is very expensive by the way. You can also easily test this yourself, take a new glass plate and rub one side with ISO or cleaning agent and one side not... You will see A: A white film, that is the chemical reaction of the glue dissolving and B : Your prints will no longer hold or will only hold up weakly... stop using cleaning agents, especially those with alcohol... only makes the glue manufacturers happy...
I'll have to look that up because I've never heard of thermal glue being used on any build plates I've never used glass plates though and dont have one to test so I'll have to take your word for it. All I know is I use IA from time to time to clean my PEI plate and if there's anything on it stopping a corner from sticking, 99% of the time it will stick after a clean and no residue there. I had one magnetic plate last I dont know how many thousands of prints on it with only a wipe over every 1 or 2 months for about 3 years. I think from all the comments I've seen so far, I have to say if it works for you and your setup then keep doing what you're doing.
@elriem-vm6yc do you know where I can find more info about the thermal glue coating? I haven’t been able to find anything on that. I agree with the no glue and I’d never recommend adding anything to help things stick. making sure the bed is clean and free of anything works for me.
I’ve been trying to find anything about this online but so far turned up nothing. Do you mean bad for the bed or people? no doubt it’s harsher than dish soap and water it it’s what’s in a lot of hand sanitizers and recommended and used for years by 3d printers globally. If I’m using something that’s proven bad and recommending it I genuinely want to read the articles so if anyone has anything please let me know some links so I can research more.
nooooooooooooo! :-) I tried glue and hairspray once and never again. Maybe because I always use a textured plate but it was such a mess and left residue on the bed and print. I know some people have success and if it works go for it but for me I’d never recommend based on my experience. does it work well for you? are you using a glass bed?
@@3DPrintSmith I have a mildly textured PEI plate and hairspray works like charm for me more that a year in use. ABS juice is way stronger (styrene gets dissolved by acetone - so my guess is it's styrene glue) but the hair spray is just great for ABS and ASA in my experience so far?
If you've got other things to check or do when getting lifting corners let everyone know here in the comments.
Prusa and orca have mouse ears.
I stumbled onto this video, I do very little printing but this was helpful information, thanks for posting it.
glad you liked it. thanks
Pause the print when higher than your magnet, then place magnets on the corner mice ears or brim. This creates a strong retention when printing on a ferris bed.
interesting idea!
cool
When the magnets heat they lose magnetism permanently. Have you actually tried this?
yeah, you'd need to make the brim fairly thick which would probably defeat the purpose. Too thin and there's risk of demagnetising the bed (I'm sure I saw a video on that recently somewhere). Magnets can get stuck to the nozzle too if your arent carefull.
Or use tape to stick the brim down.
Between the video and comments, this is very helpful knowledge. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Very good. Subscribed. When I do get a corner lifting and your earlier enough, I use a toothpick to apply some glue stick under it and push it back down.
Thanks for the sub! I don’t like using glue but I’ve baby sat a few prints holding down a corner with a long skewer until there’s enough material to stop it curling. Even used masking tape once or twice. I would nt recommend either method but whatever works for people and they find the best for them is what I’d recommend.
this is what ive done as well, until seeing this video and reading its comments. Dollar store will miss my weekly gluestick\toothpick purchases from here on out. lol.
Make sure Z offset is spot on, slightly too much squish is better than too little. Don't print hotter than you need to, lower the nozzle temp the smaller the temp differential.
I think I wrongly asssumed everyone would already check bed level and zoffset but you're right, I should of made that clear as the first step.
I was thinking of making a video on bed leveling and z offset. Do you actually set z offset in slicer or on your printer? I'm in the camp that if the bed is levelled with the hardware adjustments, you shouldnt need to be adjusting offset. I'm curious as a lot of people seem to be talking about z offset rather than physical levelling in recent months.
Good tips, I will try this. Thanks ! :)
no problem, that’s for watching :-)
Preheating for a while has helped me a lot… bed temp more even and a bit more stable enclosure temp given my current winter ambient temps.
ahhh I forgot to mention pre heating the bed. I found that can help sometimes when it’s really cold too.
One thing i like to do with brims for effortless removal of them is to change the setting specifying the distance between the brim and the print setting a big distancd means the brim doesnt adhere to the model but the thermal properties are largely retained keeping the glass around troublesome areas lime corners warmer...this almost always works perfectly for me when a brim us needed for such reasons and is pretty much as easy to remove as a skirt!
What a great point, I had only thought of the brim as a physical anchor to the plate while attached to the print but you're right it would help to keep the bed around the print warm as well and keep the print edge warmer as well.
@3DPrintSmith my pleasure. Love this trick since I stated using it there's a setting for it in cura. I've found it highly reliable at preventing lifting around corners etc, and no more running a blade around the edge of the print to tidy up after brim removal!
mouse ears are very interessting will try them out THX
I had to use them today with an unusual model and some old ABS that did t want to cooperate!
thank you this was very useful
Glad it was helpful!
Orca Slicer has mouse ears as a option right in the brim selection
I found out that the slicer that Prucaslicer was based on (Slic3r) had mouse ears added just after pusaslicer was forked off. Good to know other slicers make it easier just not Pusaslicer !
Feel like the biggest thing causing lifting corners/warping early layers is TOO MUCH cooling. Touching on turning the fans down is good, but for example, BambuLab's default profiles for PLA and PETG have the auxiliary cooling fan that blows horizontally across the bed (assuming your printer has it) set to run at 90% fan speed after the first layer. I usually drop it to 10% or just turn it completely off, especially on prints where the first few layers are quite large.
You also have to remember: while turning up the temperature of the bed might sound beneficial, it's only going to increase the differential between the material temperature and the ambient air/cooling fan air temperature. And I'm pretty sure whatever material you're printing will basically insulate itself from a secondary cooling fan the further it gets from the edges of the part being printed.
Good points and a few people I know have adjusted various profiles specifically for fans. I think it’s a big one that gets overlooked.
That’s helpful , I have a prusa and small or large parts can be a problem but no easy options in the slicer
I'll be making a follow up video soon. I've found a way to make adding the ears in prusaslicer a tiny bit easier. Still manual placement though.
Thank you so much
I'm brand new to printing and I'm using petg atm and three quarters of my print corners were lifting.
The raft tab thingy isn't available in the new version of cura but basic raft will save my prints.
that’s great.
In Prusa Slicer there are Helper Disks in the gallery when you add a part.
yeah I’m making a video on this today. they’ve been staring me in the face for who knows how long !
its mostly z-offset, abs for example needs a very good squeeze. it's right when you have to scrape it off from PEI plate. but instead of scraping, use some IPA to release it, works better if you use 3dlack before. forget perfect first layer, you want more material there, it will flatten out in the next layers. also find the max bed temp, when the first layers look like material squeezed out, reduce bed temp by 5°C. also measure the bed temp with a laser, may be different from printer sensor. also do your bed leveling while bed is hot, it warps under heat and is totally different at 100° compared to 60°. place the parts in the most flat area.
bed leveling while hot was definitely something I should of included. I’m thinking of doing another video just on bed levelling for beginners. I saw one person on a forum recently that looked like they were leveling just in the center of the bed somehow. needless to say one whole side was high and the other was super low.
2:56 real quick question. That tool that you are finishing the edges of your print with, what is that, and where can I get one?
Its a Deburring tool. I got this one from Amazon that comes with some extra blades. amzn.to/4d7t2Xe. They can debur metal as well so you just have to be a little carefull not to go too deep and start carving into it. If you've got some failed prints its good to practice a few times first.
How do you work mouse ear height when first layer is not the same as layer height?
Slicers can’t do fractional layer heights … and this can mess up dimensions in a print so I’m curious how best to manage it for the mouse ears?
if I need to, I set the height manually so what ever the first layer is or if you want 2 layers high first layer plus next layer.
I use a cheap glue stick.
Solved my problem.
A little bit goes a long way and it washes off with water.
I know it works well for some but too much of a mess for me.
@@3DPrintSmith If its messy you used too much. The light has to be right to see the glue on the surface. Thats how little I use.
Have got into a sticky situation when the print adheres a little too well with the bed. Still, that is why printers come with scrapers 😂
@@robdavis8556be carefull with the metal scrapers. I put a scratch in a plate once and had to be carefull where I printed after that because the scratch would show on the first layer.
👌
thanks for sharing the knife model 🙂
I use hair spray on a glass plate and keep the printer in a warm environment. Not brim, skirt...no problem...
I’ve not tried a glass plate myself but a friend that has one does the same. I’m not keen on it though to be honest but if it works for you then definitely go for it.
In my case a poorly leveled bed caused this problem and after few screw turns this formerly loose corner now sticks harder than needed, heh...
I'm yet to get hand of how of "sheet of paper" leveling technique.
I’ve been thinking of doing a video on the paper method if everyone thinks it’s worth it
@@3DPrintSmith That'd be interesting but the problem with paper method that it's subjective and it's somewhat hard to understand results after specific 'pressure'.
It'd be nice to see a video with examples like: extruder too low, too high, optimal. With one-two poorly aligned corners and test prints with specific cases.
And overview of test models for aligning corners (the ones that look like 1-2 layer thick planes fitting bed size).
Not sure if it's optimal for a video though.
I’ll put it on the list of videos to make. I actually use a feeler gauge when I do it in case I use paper with different thickness and then do one of the huge square test prints. that’s the way I do it and works for me and people can take from it what they want. I’ll figure something out :-)
Anyone know where to get the Tab Plus Cura Plugin - Doesn't seem like I can find it.
That's unexpected ! I installed it about a year ago and looks like it's not in the marketplace anymore so I'll do some research and see what happened. I'll comment in here where you can get it.
@@3DPrintSmith thank you! Appreciate it!
I have good news ! It looks like the author of the plugin isnt registered in the marketplace anymore but, I found the project on github github.com/5axes/tabplus and there's still a link to the marketplace but it doesnt work anymore.
The good news is you can still install the plugin manually. The instructions are on the github page and it's pretty straight forward. Basically download and unzip the package into the plugin folder for Cura. I'll try on another machine I've got a little later to make sure.
@@3DPrintSmith awesome!
@@3DPrintSmith Just added it - thanks for finding it!!
FWIW, I've tried all these proposals and keeping the cooling fan off during the earliest layers is what seems to work the best for me, when dealing with PETG.
But I have run into apparent bugs in PrusaSlicer where the fan commands in the gcode don't seem to wind up matching what I have set in the settings. So it does require some fiddling around to get the fan speed actually where I want it. (Maybe I just don't understand the settings well enough, but it really does look like buggy behavior to me).
Interestingly, I find that I have the most trouble with corners curling when printing objects that are larger and thicker. I would've thought these would resist curling more, because of the extra mass and so slower cooling away from the fan. But I think instead, the lighter/thinner/smaller models advance Z more quickly, which lets the model get built up higher, fast enough that it's already reasonably solid before the curling can overwhelm the bed adhesion.
yeah sounds like it’s when large prints are taking too long to get the next layer on. A thick raft can help protect even if it does lift. If it were me I’d try these in order I think they’d make a difference
- design supports into the model to help with holding it down
- cut the print into seperate parts that print quicker and join them later.
- seal and heat the enclosure might work too.
I never faced corner lifting with brim enabled print
one of the lucky ones 😀
draft shield does it for me if im using warpy filaments
I've never really tried draft shields. The tight ass in me wouldnt want to waste the filament even though it's going to be a pretty small amount. How wide do you generally make them?
@@3DPrintSmith just 1 layer wide, that S around 0.45 for a .4 nozzle, you can make prusa slicer do it
@@kubburdigital I'll be trying it for sure
I can't seem to find tab plus plugin in cura :(
I found out afterthat video it was removed from the marketplace but you can still download it and install it manually. I mentioned in a follow up video here ruclips.net/video/rzr3FVAZtbk/видео.html but you can go direct to the download page on Github which has the instructions github.com/5axes/tabplus
@@3DPrintSmith Cool, thank you!
Orca slicer has mouse ears🙄 has for a while now
yeah I saw that after I made this. I actually found an easier way for n prusaslicer that I’ll release a video on soon
Good video, just want to point out bed temp should be lower not higher to reduce warping. The parts warp as the top layers cool (and shrink) and pull the non solid bottom layers up. By lowering bed temp the bottom layers become more solid and less likely to be pulled up, but will stick less to the bed, so glue is recommended.
Thanks! I have to disagree with you though on bed temp. From experience as well as filament manufacturer recommendations. The lower layers being warmer gives them the chance to cool and shrink WITH the new layers on top. What works for me though may not work for everyone so I think I’ll stop recommending anything in future 😊 ! !
@@3DPrintSmith I think your right. There is such a thing as too low or too high of a bed temp so think we are both right here depending on situation.
lifting corners... guy use Isopropanol......DONT use this stuff! And you wonder why your prints not stay in position!?..
THANKY YOU! I was thinking the same! 👍
Are you aware that pretty much all panels are covered with thermal adhesive, which you wipe off with alcohol?! It's clear that your prints won't hold up...then the full professionals come and use glue sticks, clean the plate again and then need glue sticks again because they wiped off the thermal glue...
Sorry, that's ridiculous, we have various printers standing around here where many of them run 24/7, we don't have a problem with the corners or hold in place, stop with the alcohol stuff... by the way, most of the disks also say no cleaning products etc to use.
Plate comes with Glue....guys, lets remove this glue...Iso/Glue/Iso/Glue/IsoGlue/Iso lol
Whatever you can use to clean the bed doesnt have to be Isopropyl Alcohol, warm soapy water and a good rinse works too. The IA is to disolve anything on the bed to make it easy for a cloth to pick it up and not just smear it all over. Dries off super quick and leaves no residue so works every time I need it to. Not sure why I wouldnt use it being the most widely accepted cleaner for electronics and work surfaces.
@@3DPrintSmith elrim explained that because of the thermal adhesive, which is removed with cleaning agents, it is activated when heated. This glue is removed when cleaning...which is very expensive by the way. You can also easily test this yourself, take a new glass plate and rub one side with ISO or cleaning agent and one side not... You will see A: A white film, that is the chemical reaction of the glue dissolving and B : Your prints will no longer hold or will only hold up weakly... stop using cleaning agents, especially those with alcohol... only makes the glue manufacturers happy...
I'll have to look that up because I've never heard of thermal glue being used on any build plates I've never used glass plates though and dont have one to test so I'll have to take your word for it. All I know is I use IA from time to time to clean my PEI plate and if there's anything on it stopping a corner from sticking, 99% of the time it will stick after a clean and no residue there. I had one magnetic plate last I dont know how many thousands of prints on it with only a wipe over every 1 or 2 months for about 3 years.
I think from all the comments I've seen so far, I have to say if it works for you and your setup then keep doing what you're doing.
@elriem-vm6yc do you know where I can find more info about the thermal glue coating? I haven’t been able to find anything on that.
I agree with the no glue and I’d never recommend adding anything to help things stick. making sure the bed is clean and free of anything works for me.
isopropyl alcohol has been proven to be worse then just cleaning the bed with some dish soap.
I’ve been trying to find anything about this online but so far turned up nothing. Do you mean bad for the bed or people? no doubt it’s harsher than dish soap and water it it’s what’s in a lot of hand sanitizers and recommended and used for years by 3d printers globally.
If I’m using something that’s proven bad and recommending it I genuinely want to read the articles so if anyone has anything please let me know some links so I can research more.
@@3DPrintSmith when i have some time ill try and dig some stuff up
How about that generic brand hairspray?
nooooooooooooo! :-) I tried glue and hairspray once and never again. Maybe because I always use a textured plate but it was such a mess and left residue on the bed and print. I know some people have success and if it works go for it but for me I’d never recommend based on my experience.
does it work well for you? are you using a glass bed?
@@3DPrintSmith I have a mildly textured PEI plate and hairspray works like charm for me more that a year in use. ABS juice is way stronger (styrene gets dissolved by acetone - so my guess is it's styrene glue) but the hair spray is just great for ABS and ASA in my experience so far?
it sounds like it works for you so I have to say keep doing what works ! !
@@3DPrintSmith likewise i guess :D