How compression fittings work - Plumbing Tips
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- Опубликовано: 23 май 2010
- In this video I show you how compression fittings work.
Compression fittings work by the compression of an ‘olive’ between two tapered surfaces and the pipe itself. The two surfaces are the body of the fitting (be it a valve, connector or any other type) and the nut. Using a spanner and a pair of grips the nut is tightened. This exerts pressure on the olive and bites it onto the pipe.
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Masterclass in how to make a RUclips instruction video. Simple. Zero waffle. No music. Excellent visuals.
just sorted a plumbing problem in my old house and can now plumb in my sink. Compression rocks! Thanks!!
legend has it he's still wrapping Teflon tape around the ferrule
This is an absolutely exemplary instruction video - clear, simple, showing all the parts clearly, and very clearly narrated. And it really solved my problem. Well done Plumberparts!
A short but fantastic video which just helped me understand these little things. Replace one which had been leaking sneakily for months. Just saved hundreds of pounds on plumber and maybe on a damp course! Thanks Plumber Parts.
On boats we were taught to assemble the fitting, butt up the tube into the fitting and to mark the pipe with pencil. THEN WITHDRAW THE PIPE BY 1/4 INCH before tightening up. If the pipe is hard up against the end of the fitting there is no room for the pipe to move during tightening and the olive will be deformed. Think of the dynamics. The olive stays in one place. The nut needs to move along the pipe to make a seal. The fitting also needs to move along the pipe to make a seal. Try it!
That's absolute bollocks. More likely because it's on a constantly moving boat that needs to flex.
Im a commercial plumber....Ive never come across any plumber who does that ever. I butt up every time so the pipe is securely in.
@@stoosam3244 Hi Sto. The video was good and I wasn't trying to knock it. My training could be a hang up from an older design of fitting. I was taught by someone who was a fitter in the navy. I guess that ships and subs really don't like getting leaks! Butting the pipe is fine for domestic and using PTFE on an old or damaged olive. Its very hard to sink a house but I know a plumber who nearly did and ended up the newly laid kitchen floor floating. We were also taught to wind PTFE around a thread or olive in the same direction as the nut will tighten as it can stop the tape from catching and bunching up. Try tightening a butted joint to destruction and also a non-butted. I guess it might all come down to how often you might need to remove and reassemble a joint. Cheers, Jon.
@@jonathanflatman Hi Jon. I will give it a go and see how they both look. It makes perfect sense what you say....its just that in my day_to_day jobt, butting up works/seals the joint regardless. The trouble with most fittings is that they would be too shallow to safely pull out very much and would be a fiddly time constraint to do reliably. If i ever work on a boat though (which I haven't yet), I'll bear it in mind.
True about the ptfe direction....same for loctite thread and hemp on threaded joints.
As for the video, i was taught to finger-tighten then turn the nut ½ to ¾ of a revolution. So ¼ turn doesn't seem much. But most vids say the same! I know that plumbers generally don't tighten too much in case they might want to prise the olive off again later. But Ive seen fittings fly off the live pipe when being adjusted by the next plumber because of that and it worries the hell out of me. Did he also use 'Hawk White'? ...Thats unsuitable for potable water - only central heating. For drinking water, it should be 'Water Hawk' or 'Jet Blue' paste...or LSX which is my favourite. Or ptfe like you say which effective. All plumbers are different.
Thanks a lot.
Thank you. Just saved me from flooding the kitchen just that bit more. Watching your simple video has given me my power back. Yipee.
Never heard of teflon being used on compression fittings, but it certainly does make sense especially after the ring/olive is compressed first.
Thanks Plumberparts for sharing your video about plumbing! It's very helpful and informative.
This video really helped me out today. Thanks for keeping it easy and simple.
Great Video! Thanks for the very informative and useful video! Pipes, fixtures and valves for common plumbing can be connected in various ways. The easiest way to connect a pipe to another pipe, a fitting or a valve is with a compression fitting. This video teaches you how to use the compression fitting.
straight to the point instructional video, excellent!
Thanks for the help. Having never touch plumbing before (I'm a software engineer) I called 5 plumbers to be told I faced a 5 week wait to fit new bath and basin taps... RUclips pointed me to your videos so I purchased the flexie pipes, the weird spanner thing, a doubled ended "nut under the sink/bath tool" and some ptfe tape. I'm now tickled pink with my new taps and my house isn't flooded!! I have just noticed the smallest of weeps from a sink joint (one drop after 6 hours) but my water is rock hard so I'll leave it for a few days and hope the limescale sets and seals it!! Cheers mate, great video guides.
+Simon Gurry Well done Simon!
Sub here please>> ruclips.net/user/plumberparts
Jon Flatman tip makes a lot of sense. I will be trying that tomorrow on a compression fit without teflon tape or compound. The purists do indeed say to avoid product enhancements (no such laws in the UK yet AFAIK) but I have noticed the drop in quality & consistency of materials. FWIW for the last 20 years I had been using tape particularly on radiator HW pipe couplings (which would most certainly weep after due to the expand/contract of the first heat cycle). I saw a pro use Teflon & he claimed he had a guaranteed success rate.
Thanks for your comments. I've never had a problem with Teflon. Regards, PP
Thank you for a simple instruction!
Amazing the shit you can find on RUclips. Just bought a house by myself and I'm no handy man. Hooked up a new stackable washer/dryer tonight (I have a small place...but three acres of private land) and sure as hell...valves leaked when I turned them on. My dad knows a lot about this stuff and was talking about the compression fittings. We didn't have time (nor the material) to fix them but now that ive seen this I can understand what's wrong and fix it myself :)
brillant thanks mate i inboxed u on on facebook when my fitting at work was still leaking so ill put some off this tape on tomoz hopefully it will stop the leak
I've got three more boxes of PTFE tape in the stores if you need it.
I love the user name mate!!
New tap fitted thanks to this. Thanks!
Thank you for a simple and useful video.
hey, I appreciate all your hard work that you put into these video's. Just a quick question. Personally, do you use boss white on compression fittings as I prefer this method as when the boss white hardens it makes the fixings stronger?
Cheers buddy !!! Excellent video. Going to put it into practice tomorrow for the first time :)
Great video - I understand how they work now, but have a question. I am installing a water filter (under the counter) and the tubing is plastic will the plastic compression sleeve work as well as a brass sleeve?
So I've got brass insert, plastic sleeve and brass compression nut.
Thanks in advance!
Excellent demonstration ! 👍🏼
Teflon tape or thread compound on a compression fitting is a code violation and would not pass inspection --- at least not here in the US. Tape or joint compound will eventually compromise the seal. The compression fitting should seal correctly with the correct amount of tightening - and if leaks - you usually need to start over. The tip by Jon Flatman is correct - the compression fitting will seal better if it is pulled back slightly and not pressed up against the end of the fitting.
***** or won't ever leak. as per my thousands of joints I have done over the years.
I've just done some in my bathroom.......2 are leaking right on the copper pipe out the back of the nut. I had that little ring right on the end of the copper pipe when i did it....Should i have slid it further up like this video?
@@toptensviewerschoice5204 yes the copper pipe needs to fit right into the isolation valve
Thanks. Managed to fix my leaking washing machine inlet values.
thanks for the tutorial
thank you for this man!
Excellent video, thank you sir
Simple and clear explanation
Look how far you've came James.
thank You so much for this video upload
Cheers, kind of already knew I was doing it right but double checking with informative youtube vids is always a good thing.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge
No worries dude!
Very informative useful info thanks buddy
nice clear video, thanks!
yea already found out about that plasticol 10x is the stuff, great videos keep it up.
@plumberparts Thanks, that's no problem to change the olive. I'm fitting a new kitchen mixer mono-bloc.
Great help thank you. Very concise messaging
engineer:"here is this easy to use, sturdy, leak free metal-to-metal joint you can use with no sealing compound!"
plumber:"hehe let's add microplastics to the drinking water"
Thanks good vid!!!
have u tried plumbers mate? if so how do u compare it to ptfe tape
at 19 secs can you fit a flexi tail (15mm) direct to that thread without an olive etc?
Hi I got a question, I want to use chrome plated pipework 15mm from the floor to my trv and the pipes run under floor boards, can i solder the chrome pipe into a copper elbow or is a compression joint the only real option for this. if it is possible can you do a video please. all your vids so far are very helpfull. thanks
excellent video
Brilliant ! Thanks .
would be great if you could do a how to install a tmv video thanks.
Have you ever used these internal reducing sets that Kuterlite and Conex make. I have found them questionable
Thank you for your sharing this clip.👍 👍 👍 👍 👍
No worries!
Quality stuff mate!
No worries dude!
concise and to the point +++
Loads of people on screwfix site say to never use ptfe on a compression joint, they must be the gods of plumbing because every plumber in the world has had a compression leak at some point. I'm not even a plumber (working on that) and know that 😆 Tell yourself you don't need it when you're working on a historical building and not allowed to solder lmao. Great vids fella 'hold tight..!'
This video makes it look easy. Can this method be used to move a radiator forward a few inches (we are putting a studded wall up) or is it neccessary to do some soldering.
THANKS!
Great Video..Thanks
I'd like to see one where he in a small crawl space trying to install one of these.
Thank you
What about galvanic corrosion from copper and stainless?
Is that 360 or simply one turn of the spanner as per your video.
I am told that the common root cause for leaking compression fittings is that cheaper/poor quality fittings are made from the wrong grade of copper, they are not as maliable so dont seal well. However, over the years I have learnt to use sealing compound. The one I find works best is used on motor car cooling systems. They go on like grease and when cured are like rubber. When first applied they lubricate the moving parts of the compression fitting so allowing the fitting to [next post]
@sandy7m Maybe smear of 'Boss White' jointing Compound can be a Belt and Braces approach to be used on these fittings .... although on copper 'Push fit fittings like 'Sharkbite' are also becoming very popular.....
Excellent
Of course, if you want to be sure to avoid leaking joints, you might consider cleaning the flaming pipe first! MW
we use stag at work when using these sorts of fitting to make sure we never get a leak but thats for useing them with LPG.
there's more to this than meets the eye
@bombaclat123321 Did you use an internal support bushing into the end of the plastic pipe to help support the compression fitting...[ maybe the guy could have used fine wire wool to clean the oxidation off the pipe just a thought].. plus adding a little bit of 'Boss White jointing patse' could also stop outgress of water although teflon tape can also be ok as it clean to work with..... get the Teflon 'Gas' type tape... as it great and tends to shred less...
I have put compression fittings on Qualplex pipe but cannot get tight fit. I have tightened nut a good bit but I can still move pipe around in the fitting. I took joint apart to check if insert was in and then put on some ptf. Joint is still loose. Any ideas appreciated
You only turned the nut about 1/8th of a turn. I suspect correct tightening of these fittings is something of a fine art - particularly as the pipe can start to twist as the nut is tightened, putting pressure on an existing soldered joint at the other end of the length of pipe you're working with.
Can they be taken apart and re-made using the same olive?
Ok I asked on another video but maybe this is more accurate to ask here: I have a 3/4" compression nut and sleeve that was working fine until I took it off. It has just the nut and the sleeve. The sleeve slides around freely.
Most jointing compounds are potable now (for the none plumbers that means cleared for use on consumable water).
Just got to make sure the less experienced don't go overboard and get it everywhere. :)
You know what pisses me off. When other people bitch about other peoples work when it's top notch.
Smiler Liverpool Yeah, me too!
Have you ever seen a domestic compression valve in France??? unless I missed something, they all seem to be tap connector fittings which is totally weird. About the jointing compound, I got hooked on using LS-X , much more expensive but saves time.
Use two wrenches for a tight fitting. North Perth plumbers does it well.
G'day,
There is no seal between the nut and Olive. The Olive only seals on the fitting side.
In Australia we call them TUBE fittings/Olives.
Tube is measured OD Pipe is Measured ID.
Can you re use old olives ?
Prestex are quality. :)
We do get some garbage in the U.K now though don't we LOL ?
Ball 'O' fix valves that leak the first time someone uses them LOL .
And some fittings where the pipe comes out of them at an angle no matter how much care you take when tightening them. hahahaha not funny at the time but some of this gear we are getting now is very poor, they can't even make a nut that is the same distance from face to face all the way round, so you are constantly adjusting your spanner.
So tighten the olive first then ptfe?
Just to let you people know, up & coming new useful tool for taking off compressed olives, go to Olive removal tool Olive pulling tool on youtube and have a look.
This is not the "olive puller" from monument, this one works better.
Thanks for the video, is there an easy way to get the olive then nut off if an old one is leaking?
Use an Olive splitter! Sorry for the delay in replying!
Sub here please➡️👉 ruclips.net/user/plumberparts 👈⬅️If you haven't already!
[post continued] be made up realy tight. When the compound is still wet it will seal-off small leaks. When the compound is cured it behaves like a rubber gasket, so future leaks are prevented. One downside might be that these compounds are not suitable for plumbing in kitchens or where the water is for consumption.
some reseating tools have a tapered bush to fit a bs1010 taps, some have a parrallel bush to connect to bs1010 and bs5412 which has a resessed thread, some have parallel cutters
( rotate in both directions ) some have radial cutters, ( use it clockwise direction ) which means you need to use them differently.
some taps have bevelled seat ( concave ), but usually a flat seating.
I leave a trickle of water running to wash away the bits of brass, which are been shaved off the seating as you resat the tap, don't remove more than necessary.
I once reseated a tap, and it made no difference, becaued the brass seating, had become porous, due to dezincification, they should make taps from dezincification resistant brass, but as with most things, taps have become fashion items, so are expect to be replaced and thrown away, to keep up with the latest fashion, so function and durability, is secondary in most cases.
what they look like is more important, than quality.
Hi, for clarity. Do any suppliers sell combined compression ball valve and non return valve. The flexible tap connector is too long and may kink if I fit a non return valve after the ball valve which is already in place?
No I don't think they do!
How tight do you tighten these up. I'm always worry that I might over tighten them. Your video says a full turn, is that a full revolution.
Super late response but it depends greatly on your pipe size, the wrench you are using will also make a difference because the longer your wrench the more torque you get on the compression nut. Don't forget to back wrench them if you have other compression joints earlier in your line because they can be a real pain.
never thought of using teflon tape
hey im an apprentice plumber im 17 and ive just started my level 1 plumbing at college im doing a plumbing apprenticeship next year are there any specific videos that would benefit me?
+MrFreefonix I'm doing lvl 2 plumbing. There's loads of vids to help u
You need to use an insert when using a compression fitting on Qualpex.
you should use a jointing compound instead of ptfe. Ptfe is designed for threaded fittings not compression. When applied correctly jointing compound will not get into the valve or pipe, and will provide a much more reliable seal.
I once worked on an nhs hospital where they specified ptfe on the compression joints. Some plumbers prefer it and others prefer paste. No two plumbers are really the same in terms of method.
hi James, is it good or bad practice to install iso valves on central heating radiator pipework?
Hi, Can you advise if I can buy a integrated compression ball valve and flow control valve?
Hmm, I don't think you can.... can you not just install an inline valve before a standard ball valve? SUBSCRIBE! ➡️👉 ruclips.net/user/plumberparts 👈⬅️ IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY! 😎
G'day
All Ball valves are flow control valves. (ON/OFF = flow control)
No, properly installed you can't use the olive again. When you tighten the nut, olive will be pressed against the pipe so tight you wont be able to remove it without doing damage to it. If the olive is loose when opening, sure you can use it again, but you were lucky that it didn't leak in the first place.
i want to study can i apply or this is not public sector
Anyone, please help. I need to put one rubber tube into a push-fitting device, but it's not the right size. Am I able to put some teflon tape around it, and call it good?
who would dislike this video
Do not use PTFE tape (or anything else for that matter) if the olive is new and the copper pipe is cleaned with steel wool until shiny and is in perfect condition.
If an existing joint has been opened, PTFE tape can be used to help reseal the joint and keeping the existing olive in place. Three or four wraps is ideal, any more makes things worse.
A properly fitted compression joint will NOT leak.
I am a plumbing student and I have see a few people over tinght the nuts so u have to cut them off and new on to the pipe
+Ian Langley Indeed, just a little nip up should do!
+Ian Langley Ian, I'm so glad you made this comment. Over tightened nuts can be a problem, but what to do?? If you don't have extra pipe or if the pipe is close to the wall or tile?? What a nightmare huh? Now your stuck...ur 5 minute job just turned into an hr. Fortunately for you and every other plumber out there.........there is a new tool out there called the Hexpander available from Knucklehead tool Company that resizes the copper pipe to its exact dimensions and as a bonus, you can pull the ferrule and nut off. Imagine that. Leaving the pipe ready for the next angle stop. Your 5 minute job....takes.......5 min.
+Keith Sharrow send me the link
Knucklehead tool Company lol
why are heat exchangers washed in lead?
I may have a faulty isolation valve can a new one be put on without cutting the old on off a pipe
Just slacken the nuts and spring it off. Should be fine.
so professional! what happened ?????
Whats the purpose of compression fittings