I get the thought process. He always tries to make sure that the covert entry won't be detected. Although in this case, you're absolutely right. I'm pretty sure they would notice their lock being scorched and broken...
The fact that they actually asked for feedback and made alterations on future products based on said feedback from the locksport community is highly encouraging to hear.
IDK, if there's potential for a lock body to just wash away under a few minutes of heat from a portable torch that doesn't really raise any suspicion to carry in your truck, that seems like a practical way to take someone's stuff in the right circumstances. Good to see that this lock isn't that way.
@@MushVPeets the key phrase is "a few minutes." You would have to stay there in one position with a lit torch going ham on the entrance to somewhere without anyone actually going by and noticing you. In the world we live in people are everywhere, and more time is more of a multiplier for getting caught. If you are not in a situation where you are out in the open, you had to 1:park in a weird spot. 2: drag that torch out in the open 3: walk a suspicious route while carrying a fucking blow torch, THEN stand there and go ham on the lock. It really is weird and impractical.
@@onlinepanic2036 Put on a tool belt, a yellow hard hat and overalls, wave at people as they pass by. You don't have to hide, you just have to look like you're hired to be there.
@Charles Wetherspoon Unless I misremember the Turkish Police (as I remember it) did a test (due to having a large amount of kidnappings from the homes) were they (in civilian clothing) just went to the front door, knocked and asked the person opening to take a sip from a glass of water they were holding in their hand, apparently a l disturbing amount of people actually did it.
Consider that you're now at a level when you're picking open a lock in under 2 minutes, you state "Quite a bit of fight out of this lock." Heheheh. Great job, man!
@@lockpickinglawyer I wasn't watching the clock and it seemed like longer, but that must be because you're so quick with everything else. I was a bit disappointed when you cut away for putting it back together. Do any of your videos show the reassembly after you gut a core? That's something I'd like to see.
Aluminum gets brittle as it heats up. In welding it is called "Hot Short" I believe Paclock simply used a standard extruded aluminum like heat treatable 6061 and machined it down. This differs from the metal in the American lock in that it was CAST, not machined. Casting aluminum is not the same as extruded aluminum (like the Paclock) It is chock full of doping agents (zinc can be one of these agents along with a host of other things). This can, not so much change the melting point (which it DOES, but not by as much as you may think), but aid the casting type aluminum in melting and freezing (changing phases) more uniformly, and so the American gave way all at once, whereas the Paclock would reach melting point at different points throughout the torching, but it's chemistry is less condusive to uniform "liquidus" and conducts heat better, being more "pure" aluminum than the casting aluminum and so made it a fantastic heat-sink. The back of the American seemed to fall out, though it is uniformly shaped. Generally, aluminum likes to be the same temperature ALL the way around and as fast as possible. Just an observation that ultimately means nothing. Here is a link to an article describing hot-shortness www.corrosionpedia.com/definition/638/hot-shortness
Also helps a bit that he's got it in that nice big metal vice. Think this is a situation where having it on the chain would actually be a benefit because the air and chain links are a much worse heat conductor in their own right.
@@erikev He's not saying that its directly brittle when hot. He's saying that the more times you heat it up, the more brittle it becomes (more aluminum oxide in the structure).
Only recently found this channel and I’m noticing something incredible. Unless I’m mistaken it seems that companies making new locks are in touch with and seek feedback from the lock picking community. That’s genuinely amazing.
@@mrevilducky **lockpicking. trying to rebrand this hobby is outright pointless and ignorant. theres nothing wrong with having lockpicking be your hobby.
Melting point of aluminum is approximately 200 C higher than that of zinc. Closer to 250, actually. It’s possible he was thinking Fahrenheit but accidentally stumbled upon the correct interval in Celsius. Or he was correct all along and was using an untypical unit of measurement for those from the States.
Scientific fields use metric measurements, even in the US, so he very well may have been using metric. It's so much simpler when you start to get to the extremes of temps.
Quick note: I wouldn't classify a blowtorch as a "plumber's torch" as you did in this video. It's much more useful (and the trade standard as far as I know) to refer to them by the fuel used: propane torch (hot), MAPP gas (really hot), etc. They often use the same torch head and connectors, but the difference in fuel distinguishes their use as propane will melt solder for copper pipe; MAPP gas will also melt solder but it's too hot for small pipe. Acetylene is hot enough to cut pipe. Cheers
When your everyday real people RUclipsrs actually prompt entire companies into rethinking, researching, and ultimately improving a product for everyone... That's what's up.
@@mattmurphy7030 i have doubts about masterlock lol. also, a year ago, when i posted this comment, LPL wasn't quite as well known of as he is today. Deservingly too!
At last a lock company ceo that listens to and puts into practice reviews by LPL and BB, AND reads the comments. Basically he has the smarts to save a huge amount of expensive R&D.
Another thing. If it were mounted on metal, heat dissipation would be greater. If on flammable material, you'd burn the house down before melting the lock.
Hi LPL, I just wanted to chime in here. As I am actually a Plumber by trade and a Lock sport enthusiast by hobby, I should tell you that your torching technique would have been quicker had you set your flame at the correct distance from the work. The hottest part of any flame is at it's tip. I noticed you being too close and I would have recommended concentrating the flame more to the outer side of the lock body opposite of the pins. Otherwise the mention of a steel version was ideal. I made that suggestion in the comments in Bill's video review as well. Great review! Thank you!
@@bytheseaaspirinshop801 I agree even though only a small part of the lock was in contact with the vise it was very close to the spot he was heating and allowed a lot of the heat to sink into the vise.
J. Wilson additionally it appeared as though care was taken to focus the heat on the shackle and to avoid heating the aluminum at the weakest point and advance the molten puddle towards the locking components. It's almost as if the LPL didn't want the heating attack to be successful. Then you see the glowing review of the review of the lock by the Manufacturer, and it's enough to make you go hmmm.
Jon Hunt I was thinking the same thing while watching, I normally love his unbiased videos but this one seemed off to me as he is focusing the heat to the only parts not made of aluminum
You said... "The hottest part of any flame is at it's tip.", I wanted to add a reference... www.bernzomatic.com/Using-a-Torch/Torch-Safety (search the page for the word 'hottest').
Defcon has some, and other locksport events go down all over the place. Some that immediately comes to mind is the locksport club in Austin, Texas or Seattle, Washington. Most major cities have one or two, Google it. The benefits of these types of events go from designing elaborate puzzle locks for fun, testing locksmith's skills, and improving on manufacturers designs. More than a few (reputable) manufacturers have upped their game and recalled certain locks with glaring flaws. And for the ones insinuating that locksport enthusiasts are criminals in training, that's such a simple minded point of view. That's like saying everyone who learns martial arts or trains to run fast or be an impressive marksman/markswoman or learn cyber security pen/testing are also all trying to learn to be criminals. Edit: got more specific about locations and how to find events/clubs
Calm and methodically laid out description, pedagogical and thorough, I like that. Only one thing worries me and that is that "wrong" people who follow you, learn very useful for them. But the rest of us learn what to observe. It's great Thanks for a very good page. Carsten Sweden
Considering one of these to lock my bike. They're relatively affordable for the security level, and throw in a good solid self-looping security chain and we've got something that can rival solutions that cost more, but are less effective.
Spot on! We always start aluminum to test the market and then move to hardened steel if the concept looks good. We're going to keep the aluminum body as an option mostly because of the weight savings... for bicycles and motorcycles where carrying a 1lb lock that's pretty darn good versus a 4lb lock that's super strong (but kills your back!) is a good option.
@@paclockpres.9805 I know this is an old video and post but this right here not only shows that PacLock listens to the Lock picking community but also reads the comments of the videos. That, to me, is just as impressive as their locks. I just started on this journey and hope to achieve the 200k Club.
@@dechert3602 Thank you! We'll be having yet another prototype posted onto our RUclips account within the next few days for comments and testers! And good luck with your 200K Club admissions!!!!
Your videos have the absolute best commentary while you are picking the lock. That is the most valuable part for those of us who are trying to improve our skills. Also, your camera is in focus! Bill's videos drive me nuts with his constantly blurry close-ups. Looks like this lock is a good training lock for pickers. Thank you for another great video.
Cool! I found these in a search a while back and lo and behold BosnianBill and LPL not only review them but PacLock improves them accordingly. Awesome! Yay PacLock and LPL!
Merlin Same here. LPL and BosnianBill really opened my eyes to how vulnerable some lock brands are. After seeing how receptive Paclock has been to suggestions and security I ordered a couple from HD. They will be used for protection and of course... play 😎
It's amazing how much harder these locks are to pick in thier used environment, especially when they are ridgid, butted against the locked item. Making the lock picker contort into gymnastic positions, and leave no room for grasping, and turning tools, and even for knuckles of the hands in a grasping mode, changes the security rating.
Your attention to detail and the practice of routine is incredible. You know full well you're about to completely destroy the lock with a torch and make it totally unusable. But you still protect the bottom of the lock from damage dissed by the pick anyway.
Hey, we know yoi like picking locks, so made a custom lock for you! We made it your favorite color, and engraved your name on it, isn't that neat... also, we need you to destroy it.
It's amazing how much I enjoy this. I think you cadence and tone as well as knowledge make the pace that sweet spot for information assimilation & entertainment. I'm a big time nerd, so this is my jam. I specialize in ballroom dance history, but we're cut from the same mold of wanting to endlessly learn. This might be our intellectual interface. Thank you, you are my nerdy ASMR.
haha I like how the company colored the lock with diecast blue (which gives off toxic fumes at high temperatures) and then they were like “here you go, by the way do you think you could melt it?” Trying to murder the LPLawyer so he can’t defeat any more of their locks, nicee that’s mad smart
I'm sure someone already commented that you can't cut aluminum with a torch, it doesn't have iron in it. I know you were not trying to cut it, but many it it. I'm just saying it. Also, I used to work construction, and whenever a key was lost or left at home for the connex, they would use welding rod to melt the loop off the lock. Lol, not as elegant as picking, but very fast. Even with the steal box over the lock. Love the videos. I have wanted to get into lock picking for years. Just to have it as another "tool" in my skills.
I will buy this lock for 2 reasons. (1) You told me to. And (2) because the company sent you and the rest of the top tier lock smiths on RUclips one to find ALL of its weaknesses. That’s some serious customer service and quality.
Pack lock Blue one can be super secure with a hardened cup cover bolted from inside door with 1 large hardened bolt. Also that anti hacksaw pin should be hardened and looose so it rolls with hacksaw blade
Being made out of aluminum my biggest concern out of those you addressed would be a prying attack. Using a pry bar and leveraging off of the hasp or chain and prying the top you would think it would bend or outright break quite easily. There isn't much material on the bottom of those steel pins that hold the shackle, and even with a thick steel pin inserted into the "neck" of the lock it should still bend quite easily. The sharp corners inside the mouth could also be a weak point. Having them rounded would increase strength.
The only way I see practical to damage this lock by leverage attacks would be mitigated if not completely eliminated by that steel rod, unless this is locked to a solid steel door or some other surface hard enough where you could bend the entire lock without damaging the surface that's mounted to. Any lock not made of solid steel is going to be a low security affair so we're talking stuff like fence gates, sheds maybe get a cheap chain and secure your relatively cheap bike to it or similar. Situations where the lock is secure enough that if the thief wants the stuff they're likely just going to take the easy route of say destroying the chain or getting a sledgehammer and just busting through the shed walls or whatever
you are able to talk very clearly and it seems like you think about every word that comes out of your mouth before you say it. which makes you very easy to under stand.very well spoken and the best locker picker iv'e ever seen.its crazy how easly you bypass some of those, incredable
I totally agree with the steel lock body. Even though PacLock installed steel rods in the new design, aluminum is very soft and can be manipulated. A steel lock body would be more expensive but that point is moot if you are securing something valuable. Great video!!
The white hot from the steel while no light from the aluminum is confirmation of what you were saying about temperatures. That aluminum is wicking that heat away phenomenally.
Awesome video. I also hate to see a good lock destroyed, but I believe its ok in the matter of science and learning. This is how we all learn to improve things. I'm proud of PacLock for actually listening to the end user. Thank you for sharing this. Also, great picking LPL always a pleasure to watch you work the pins.
I think there was another negative before that: 19:23 "This isn't a lock I wouldn't hesitate to use". Probably meant to say what you wrote, but it threw me a bit when I heard it.
What a clever way to implement customer feedback and gain priceless marketing all for the cost of a single lock. Much smarter than companies pouring untold amounts into RUclips ads that I always skip, and I suspect most people do too. I will look to PacLock for my next lock.
The craziest thing for me is how a team of dedicated professionals will do their best, yet time and time again, heros, the likes of LPL and Bosnian Bill will just put them to shame... thanks so much for the content. It's super interesting, got me into lockpicking, and its performing an invaluable service the lockpicking community as a whole. You guys rock!
My compliments to the designers, they knew that that had some good ideas, they avoided reinventing the wheel and decided to bring in other recognised experts in to get their opinions. I very much respect their attitude.
I suppose, if you were bolting it to a surface, you could include a 2-3 mm plate of very hardened steel on the outside face to gain a lot of protection with only a little material.
The essential difference between the liquid-melted lock body and that of this lock is that an aluminum wrought alloy was used here, as used for the production of extruded semi-finished products. Here the practically melted material at the outlet of the nozzle must have sufficient strength to hold the desired shape. A cast aluminum, on the other hand, has to melt thinly in order to fill even fine structures in a mold. So much for my knowledge of materials science from studying mechanical engineering.
I like the design that it can be bolted to a surface, and if made from steel and toughened as stated would be a great lock to buy if available in the UK
That American lock looks like it might be cast aluminum. In my experience, cast aluminum is more brittle than it’s barstock counterpart. Given that the PacLock looks milled, I wouldn’t be surprised if it was made of a pretty tough grade aluminum. I wonder tho if you could’ve gotten it open faster by heating further toward the elbow and then prying with some channel locks or vice grips to get better leverage over the needle noses. Very cool stuff +1
I'm absolutely hooked on the channel, LPL is amazing, the skill and knowledge he has is freaking great. I don't even have anything padlocked, but I now know if I do there's plenty I don't buy!
I really wonder if or how easily you could pick our front door. It hasn't got any really special lock, and it would probably be easily picked, but our door is really stupid and you have to almost violently pull it back while turning the key to actually open it, so you'd need to be operating the tension wrench and your lockpick and also be pulling at the doorknob at the same time. Would that be a significant hindrance?
@@SparkY0 Would certainly create an Aluminum amalgam that would fail if (as with Gallium) the surface were scratched, but would inherently be much more hazardous to handle and dispose of afterward. By comparison, Gallium is benign.
So a small drywall saw and saw around the mounted lock? A battery powered reciprocating saw to cut around the mounting? A brute force hammer and Coal chisel or bolster? Though that would be noisey. A single blow from a lump hammer to dislodge small mounting screws.
Does having it firmly in the vice just turn the vice into a huge heatsink for the lock? Saw a diff video where you hung a lock and melted the alum body and zinc innards.
If I were to guess, I'd say the beefy steel shackle absorbed a huge chunk of the heat & transmitted it away from the Al around the pins into the rest of the lock body via the key assembly. That would explain why the pins stay in place & why the dye on the lock body burned black before the upper body turned brown. I think an attack where the torch is aimed directly at the aluminum, maybe at the upper corner, would melt it pretty easily.
Another painful but useful procedure. I guess all cars complete crash tests with dummies...maybe LPL was that dummy! Hehe.😜Kidding of course.😊 Some good points raised and a thorough review as usual. The body fared much better than I thought it would, maybe because it has magnesium & silicon in it and it is weldable, otherwise the welding process would destroy itself, so a good trait to have to slow down torch attacks also.🍺✌
Aluminum is the preferred metal for use in Heat Sinks. It's a common component for anything requiring ready heat transfer, and distribution. The greater mass of the lock body will soak up, and store the more part of the heat you applied to the smaller upper part of the lock. The damage you caused is as much from oxidation of the aluminum, chemically destroying it rather than just melting it. The Lock is impressive, and well made, as are your Talents and skills Mr. LPL
what about applying tension on the top part of the lock while heating it up to brute force it open? that technique could drastically cut down on the amount of time needed to force it open...
I thought I saw that lock design, then you mentioned Bill taking a backsaw to it, then the dots were connecting. Anyway it would be harder to pick if you have it adhered to the door is something.
By clamping the lock in the manner you did the vise was a significant heatsink, which compromised your attack protocol. Despite the minimum amount of surface area the physical mass of the vise still outweighed the lower melting point of aluminum 600 deg C (Al) vs 1120+ deg C (Ir)
Here is my thought on another low tech defeat: The outboard retaining pin is a weak spot. I noticed that as you removed the weakened tip, that the top of the lock body has hollow spaces in it. If the aluminum has not been annealed and is brittle, you might try skipping part one and go straight to part two without any cutting needed. If so, a big plus is that part two is soundless except for the final snap Part one: Using a hack/sabre/ jewellers saw or dremel make a 1mm cut between the shackle and the outboard pin on three sides (4 sides if you can)- Tip: I would try using a jewellers saw first, threading it in behind the affixed side if possible and just garrotte in a 1mm deep cut. If time is not pressing, the jewellers saw could just cut off the whole tip. Part two, if needed, using a makeshift screw-jack: If you can not get through on four sides, take a piece of hardened screw rod the length of the shackle gap and put two deep nuts threaded on to that rod. Knurl a pattern into the outward faces of two heavy flat washers to give them bite into the aluminum and place them outwards of the nuts. Place the rod, nuts, and washers inside the gap just outside of the cuts made and force the nuts away from each other with two opposing ratcheted box wrenches. This pressure should cause the cut points to expand, shear, and the top of the body tear open at the retaining pin. You might need a second, slightly longer screw piece if the aluminium bends to much before reaching the breaking point I think that a second steel pin (or plate/wafer) should be inserted the entire width of the lock (as was done down the side in model 2) above the two retaining pins, if there is enough metal above the top of the shackle's tip to prevent my defeat. I would also not mill out any unnecessary voids in the top of the lock body.
Hello LPL, I really enjoy watching your videos but I would like to offer a couple of suggestions on this one, 1) an oxyacetylene torch would probably cut though the top of this lock in a few seconds, a plummer's torch by comparison is quite a mild heat, 2) as the lock is laid down in the vice a proportion of the heat is being transferred into the vice too quickly, my suggestion is to stand the lock up so only the bottom bit is located in the vice and therefore the heat has further to travel to the vice thereby keeping more of the heat at the top of the lock.
How about using a punch which is slightly thinner than those 2 bolts and hammer them through the body? The little bit of aluminium behind them shouldn't be a big obstacle.
The cast iron vice ended up being a Heat Sink and sucked away all the heat from the alloy padlock. I have found through experience that It’s a good technique to use when welding cast iron as it keeps the welding area cooler when you can draw the heat away like this.. Great video.
the only other attack someone might do which would require for no one to be at said place for good 3-5 hours but would not require you to be there with it, it is to scratch the surface of the lock above where the pins that hold to shackle in place after locked than put some gallium on it and wait for the gallium to break down the aluminum and make it brittle and easy to break making the body steal would fix that issue though. and it's not to much more expensive to buy gallium and wait longer than it is to buy a blow torch and a gas tank and be sitting there for 7 minute looking suspicious. gallium is 47 dollars per 40 grams on amazon and a blow torch is around 40 dollars with the tank and the head piece at home-depot.
Just a thought, if the two pins holding the top of the shackle pin were inserted 90 degrees to the current orientation and the shackle head installed or milled 90 degrees offset to the current "flats" could they provide dual purpose as anti drill\cut pins and as the shackle retainer?
Hi there, 3 things 1, if you had held the lock in the vice at the bottom right corner the vice wouldn’t have absorbed a lot of the heat. 2 hold the torch, so the end of the blue cone of the flame is just touching the metal. This is the hottest part of the flame. As a very interesting experiment, have you ever tried injecting gallium into an aluminium lock as gallium, totally destroys aluminium by literally being absorbed by the aluminium, and the aluminium crumbles like chalk.
I love the way LPL and other members of the locksport community interact with these companies to try to produce the most efficient locks possible. It's really cool seeing the companies humbly take their advice
Lots of people are thinking it's dumb to torch a lock, but let me tell you: I know some tradesmen that had their tools locked up with cheap aluminum locks. Thieves torched 2 of their locks over the course of a few months. The first lock was fully exposed, so they just melted it enough to pop the shackle They build a steel cage around the lock, which worked for a while. Then one day, they showed up to get their supplies, only to find an open door and a pile of slag in the dirt. This was in a nice neighborhood, too. Problem was, there was construction going on in a new development. Lots of people not from the area just taking whatever wasn't nailed down. And slagging locks to get to the rest of the stuff
building off a previous comment, the shackle is held to the lock cylinder body with a roll pin, why not rotate the catch pins and the shackle 90 degrees, drill a new hole in the shackle to accomodate the rotation. this would allow the catch pins to be used as retainers and cut protection with relatively little machining... unless the shackle has been hardened past being able to be drilled for the modification.
Nice vid LPL. A few observations: Firstly, don't believe you're not concentrating the hottest part of the flame on the target area. The end is usually hottest. You appear to be playing the flame primarily onto the steel shackle because it was clearly heating up first. Not sure that's the best ploy here. The steel shackle was obviously going to dissipate the heat from whichever area you concentrated the flame upon. But I'm not convinced heating it up first advanced your attack in any useful way. The target however was the pins. Therefore I would have directed the hotter END of the flame at each side of the bar containing the pins, swapping over once one side had melted. And I believe it would had you done so. I might even shield the shackle to direct more heat onto the aluminium. Yep, I'm a Brit aircraft engineer. Otherwise, this is an inspiring vid. I'm currently working on a motorcycle security lock design, so yours and Bill's work is very very valuable. Thank you. Aluminium seems on the face of it to be a shit material for a lock. But this one proves we shouldn't fully rule it out. And where weight is an issue (as in a bike scenario), it's well worth considering, but only if the inherent vulnerabilities of the materisl's characteristics can be overcome. I'm working on this, though every viable solution turns out to be very expensive. PSWas the American lock thinner cast aluminum? That might also explain why it melted more easily.
With regards to your comment about them adding a steel rod in the back.... to improve that further still, if they added a brass tube with a hardened steel pin inside that, it would become almost impossible to cut through with a saw. Once through the aluminium and the brass tube, the tube would act as a bearing allowing the hardened steel pin to roll. This would stop a saw from being able to bite into the pin. Just a thought.
Building on another comment, I think they could offer higher security variant by simply mounting armor plates to the lock body utilizing those four mounting holes.
Interesting thought... there are a whole bunch of armored shutter locks featured on my channel. They are popular in Europe, particularly Italy. The purpose of them is add security to corrosion resistant brass locks. Unfortunately, the added complexity makes them pretty pricy.
Would love to see how this aluminum lock would handle an encounter with gallium. Should be able to sand the anodizing off, put a good dollop of gallium on - wait a couple of days for it to “soak in”, then just tear the aluminum apart almost with your fingers.
This was my first thought watching the video... Now I need to hunt down how that went. I have a bit of gallium kicking around just in case a situation arises where it would be useful.
LPL's followup: ruclips.net/video/jeghGhVdt9s/видео.html Someone else's video: ruclips.net/video/k919f7Qi4es/видео.html (faster and more dramatic, but makes me appreciate that LPL doesn't add soundtracks).
I think that it may also be made of compacted powdered aluminum (via powdered metallurgy) which has the same melting point but conducts heat poorly, relative to other aluminum-stock so it can melt right where the hottest part of the flame hits but nowhere else.
FWIW, Anodizing doesn't use dye. It's a purely electrolytic process, which oxidizes the outer layer of the aluminum. The color is determined by the thickness of the oxide layer.
I think he actually said "This IS a lock I would not hesitate to use." But he stuttered a bit at "is". The stutter made it sound like he was saying "isn't".
I think that your vice may have absorbed a lot of the heat from the lock. It might not have done as well hanging from a chain, or especially if it is held in some fireproof ceramic insulation
![[1516] Practice To Be An Unstoppable Picker!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZFf4QEhwWSc/mqdefault.jpg)
![[1516] Practice To Be An Unstoppable Picker!](/img/tr.png)
![[275] Hugo "Cobra" 61P Padlock (6 Trap Pins!) Picked and Gutted](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xHHtAecAyh4/mqdefault.jpg)
Love how he puts a tension wrench to prevent damage with the lockpick, then later proceeds to TORCH IT. :)
Hey. It was an appropriate gesture of appreciation for the maker b4 goin full tilt breakdance open campus on the challenge. Lol. So coo!
I get the thought process. He always tries to make sure that the covert entry won't be detected.
Although in this case, you're absolutely right. I'm pretty sure they would notice their lock being scorched and broken...
W
he took the lock to dinner first
The fact that they actually asked for feedback and made alterations on future products based on said feedback from the locksport community is highly encouraging to hear.
Yhea I'll replace my lock with one passed by this guy
More companies should do things like that.
I agree... more industries in general should do this
he gets sent locks from companys all the time tho this isnt new
This is free R&D, one lock and postage is a small investment for a better lock!
"Apparently I'm the guy to go to when you deal with really strange and impractical ways to open locks."
yep.
IDK, if there's potential for a lock body to just wash away under a few minutes of heat from a portable torch that doesn't really raise any suspicion to carry in your truck, that seems like a practical way to take someone's stuff in the right circumstances. Good to see that this lock isn't that way.
@@MushVPeets the key phrase is "a few minutes." You would have to stay there in one position with a lit torch going ham on the entrance to somewhere without anyone actually going by and noticing you. In the world we live in people are everywhere, and more time is more of a multiplier for getting caught. If you are not in a situation where you are out in the open, you had to 1:park in a weird spot. 2: drag that torch out in the open 3: walk a suspicious route while carrying a fucking blow torch, THEN stand there and go ham on the lock.
It really is weird and impractical.
@@onlinepanic2036 Put on a tool belt, a yellow hard hat and overalls, wave at people as they pass by. You don't have to hide, you just have to look like you're hired to be there.
one word ramset
@Charles Wetherspoon Unless I misremember the Turkish Police (as I remember it) did a test (due to having a large amount of kidnappings from the homes) were they (in civilian clothing) just went to the front door, knocked and asked the person opening to take a sip from a glass of water they were holding in their hand, apparently a l disturbing amount of people actually did it.
Consider that you're now at a level when you're picking open a lock in under 2 minutes, you state "Quite a bit of fight out of this lock." Heheheh. Great job, man!
😁 Thanks.
You said exactly what I was going to say.
@@lockpickinglawyer I wasn't watching the clock and it seemed like longer, but that must be because you're so quick with everything else.
I was a bit disappointed when you cut away for putting it back together. Do any of your videos show the reassembly after you gut a core? That's something I'd like to see.
A beast
Pretty sure this good fella needs a level 33 puzzle box.
Aluminum gets brittle as it heats up. In welding it is called "Hot Short"
I believe Paclock simply used a standard extruded aluminum like heat treatable 6061 and machined it down. This differs from the metal in the American lock in that it was CAST, not machined.
Casting aluminum is not the same as extruded aluminum (like the Paclock) It is chock full of doping agents (zinc can be one of these agents along with a host of other things). This can, not so much change the melting point (which it DOES, but not by as much as you may think), but aid the casting type aluminum in melting and freezing (changing phases) more uniformly, and so the American gave way all at once, whereas the Paclock would reach melting point at different points throughout the torching, but it's chemistry is less condusive to uniform "liquidus" and conducts heat better, being more "pure" aluminum than the casting aluminum and so made it a fantastic heat-sink.
The back of the American seemed to fall out, though it is uniformly shaped.
Generally, aluminum likes to be the same temperature ALL the way around and as fast as possible.
Just an observation that ultimately means nothing.
Here is a link to an article describing hot-shortness www.corrosionpedia.com/definition/638/hot-shortness
Thanks for that mate.
Aluminium does not get brittle when hot. It starts to get soft and ductile, and can be deformed like plastic.
Also helps a bit that he's got it in that nice big metal vice. Think this is a situation where having it on the chain would actually be a benefit because the air and chain links are a much worse heat conductor in their own right.
@@erikev He's not saying that its directly brittle when hot. He's saying that the more times you heat it up, the more brittle it becomes (more aluminum oxide in the structure).
PACLOCK locks are indeed 6061.
The highest praise LPL can give: I would use this lock
"Let's take a closer look at this lock..." *immediately zooms out* Great pick as always.
Only recently found this channel and I’m noticing something incredible. Unless I’m mistaken it seems that companies making new locks are in touch with and seek feedback from the lock picking community.
That’s genuinely amazing.
Any smart company will take feedback from enthusiasts/consumers.
*locksporting community
It's how companies test their IT setup by interfacing with the hacker community.
A good hack into a big company is seen as a job application!
@@Aengus42 lmao. Hack into the ceo's pc and leave your resume on the desktop
@@mrevilducky **lockpicking. trying to rebrand this hobby is outright pointless and ignorant. theres nothing wrong with having lockpicking be your hobby.
I forgot he's american and when he said "a couple hundred degrees" I was picturing the flames of hell itself.
I had the same thought!
Aye
Melting point of aluminum is approximately 200 C higher than that of zinc. Closer to 250, actually. It’s possible he was thinking Fahrenheit but accidentally stumbled upon the correct interval in Celsius. Or he was correct all along and was using an untypical unit of measurement for those from the States.
Scientific fields use metric measurements, even in the US, so he very well may have been using metric. It's so much simpler when you start to get to the extremes of temps.
@@advena996 scientists always mix units, time is imperial.
Quick note: I wouldn't classify a blowtorch as a "plumber's torch" as you did in this video. It's much more useful (and the trade standard as far as I know) to refer to them by the fuel used: propane torch (hot), MAPP gas (really hot), etc. They often use the same torch head and connectors, but the difference in fuel distinguishes their use as propane will melt solder for copper pipe; MAPP gas will also melt solder but it's too hot for small pipe. Acetylene is hot enough to cut pipe.
Cheers
Heat comes from the blue tip of the torch. I use UN1001 Acetyene Dissolved. 🥵
Years ago I worked in a muffler shop and we use propane for our cutting torches. It's not just the gas the amount of oxygen.
When your everyday real people RUclipsrs actually prompt entire companies into rethinking, researching, and ultimately improving a product for everyone... That's what's up.
Yes, they should build in an internal heating element so you can just plug the lock in and it will melt all by itself!
@@mattmurphy7030 i have doubts about masterlock lol. also, a year ago, when i posted this comment, LPL wasn't quite as well known of as he is today. Deservingly too!
As it should be
@@u.v.s.5583] ]2
" everyday real people" everyday real people are not expert lockpickers
anything that confounds him for more than a minute, I'll buy.
At last a lock company ceo that listens to and puts into practice reviews by LPL and BB, AND reads the comments. Basically he has the smarts to save a huge amount of expensive R&D.
Another thing. If it were mounted on metal, heat dissipation would be greater. If on flammable material, you'd burn the house down before melting the lock.
At that point, the lock is the least of your problems. 😂
Would it burn down or weaken the surface it was mounted too first?
@@elementalist1984 yeah you might as well bring an axe or sledge and bust in the door
Hi LPL, I just wanted to chime in here. As I am actually a Plumber by trade and a Lock sport enthusiast by hobby, I should tell you that your torching technique would have been quicker had you set your flame at the correct distance from the work. The hottest part of any flame is at it's tip. I noticed you being too close and I would have recommended concentrating the flame more to the outer side of the lock body opposite of the pins. Otherwise the mention of a steel version was ideal. I made that suggestion in the comments in Bill's video review as well. Great review! Thank you!
Also, the vise probably sank some heat.
@@bytheseaaspirinshop801 I agree even though only a small part of the lock was in contact with the vise it was very close to the spot he was heating and allowed a lot of the heat to sink into the vise.
J. Wilson additionally it appeared as though care was taken to focus the heat on the shackle and to avoid heating the aluminum at the weakest point and advance the molten puddle towards the locking components. It's almost as if the LPL didn't want the heating attack to be successful. Then you see the glowing review of the review of the lock by the Manufacturer, and it's enough to make you go hmmm.
Jon Hunt I was thinking the same thing while watching, I normally love his unbiased videos but this one seemed off to me as he is focusing the heat to the only parts not made of aluminum
You said... "The hottest part of any flame is at it's tip.", I wanted to add a reference... www.bernzomatic.com/Using-a-Torch/Torch-Safety (search the page for the word 'hottest').
"Locksport community"? I had no idea this existed, or had a name.
David Gingras I mean... they’re typically called thieves :)
Idiots.
Defcon has some, and other locksport events go down all over the place. Some that immediately comes to mind is the locksport club in Austin, Texas or Seattle, Washington. Most major cities have one or two, Google it.
The benefits of these types of events go from designing elaborate puzzle locks for fun, testing locksmith's skills, and improving on manufacturers designs. More than a few (reputable) manufacturers have upped their game and recalled certain locks with glaring flaws.
And for the ones insinuating that locksport enthusiasts are criminals in training, that's such a simple minded point of view. That's like saying everyone who learns martial arts or trains to run fast or be an impressive marksman/markswoman or learn cyber security pen/testing are also all trying to learn to be criminals.
Edit: got more specific about locations and how to find events/clubs
Do they stretch before each Locksport event? 🤣🤣
They probably take steroids to gain an advantage too.
It’s a shame you had to destroy the lock with your logo on, hopefully they’ll send you antother😉👍👍
The logo was put on by the manufacturer. Read previous comments.
@@charlesxix That's the point. He destroyed a customized lock.
@@ChrisG0 a block lock with the bolt and cylinder weld shut.
I also was a bit sad about seeing this beautiful lock being destroyed. I really do hope that he received a new one.
@@ChrisG0 I don't believe he's encountered a lock he couldn't pick.
"if you were thinking what I was thinking" no, no I wasn't even thinking
“Let’s take a closer look”
Camera zooms out
"Let's take a closer look at this lock..." immediately zooms out Great pick as always.
Someone else said it before u 2 years ago lol
Calm and methodically laid out description, pedagogical and thorough, I like that. Only one thing worries me and that is that "wrong" people who follow you, learn very useful for them.
But the rest of us learn what to observe. It's great
Thanks for a very good page.
Carsten Sweden
Considering one of these to lock my bike.
They're relatively affordable for the security level, and throw in a good solid self-looping security chain and we've got something that can rival solutions that cost more, but are less effective.
Maybe they just prototyped it in aluminum due to its relative ease of milling and will also offer a steel version too.
Spot on! We always start aluminum to test the market and then move to hardened steel if the concept looks good. We're going to keep the aluminum body as an option mostly because of the weight savings... for bicycles and motorcycles where carrying a 1lb lock that's pretty darn good versus a 4lb lock that's super strong (but kills your back!) is a good option.
PACLOCK PRES. Awesome, that sounds like a good move! 🍺✌
@@paclockpres.9805 I know this is an old video and post but this right here not only shows that PacLock listens to the Lock picking community but also reads the comments of the videos. That, to me, is just as impressive as their locks. I just started on this journey and hope to achieve the 200k Club.
@@dechert3602 Thank you! We'll be having yet another prototype posted onto our RUclips account within the next few days for comments and testers! And good luck with your 200K Club admissions!!!!
Your videos have the absolute best commentary while you are picking the lock. That is the most valuable part for those of us who are trying to improve our skills. Also, your camera is in focus! Bill's videos drive me nuts with his constantly blurry close-ups. Looks like this lock is a good training lock for pickers. Thank you for another great video.
Because bill uses auto-focus and LPL uses manual.
"Focus you fack"
Glad to see a company actually putting there product through people that actually know how to pick a lock to improve the tech
Cool! I found these in a search a while back and lo and behold BosnianBill and LPL not only review them but PacLock improves them accordingly. Awesome! Yay PacLock and LPL!
merlin308 I have to applaud Paclock for this.
Merlin Same here. LPL and BosnianBill really opened my eyes to how vulnerable some lock brands are. After seeing how receptive Paclock has been to suggestions and security I ordered a couple from HD. They will be used for protection and of course... play 😎
"Apparently I'm the guy to go to when you deal with really strange and impractical ways to open locks" Damn you had me rolling with that xD
where did you roll to
It's amazing how much harder these locks are to pick in thier used environment, especially when they are ridgid, butted against the locked item. Making the lock picker contort into gymnastic positions, and leave no room for grasping, and turning tools, and even for knuckles of the hands in a grasping mode, changes the security rating.
Your attention to detail and the practice of routine is incredible. You know full well you're about to completely destroy the lock with a torch and make it totally unusable. But you still protect the bottom of the lock from damage dissed by the pick anyway.
What has my life become when I will gladly sit here and watch 7 minutes of silence lock melting simply amazed at the skill this man has
Hey, we know yoi like picking locks, so made a custom lock for you! We made it your favorite color, and engraved your name on it, isn't that neat... also, we need you to destroy it.
How Machiavellian! >:-)
Did you ever send him the lock?
@@AS-do6pr you a dumb one, aren’t you? It’s a comment about this video
Why is this so entertaining. I love his soothing voice and calm speaking
It's amazing how much I enjoy this. I think you cadence and tone as well as knowledge make the pace that sweet spot for information assimilation & entertainment. I'm a big time nerd, so this is my jam. I specialize in ballroom dance history, but we're cut from the same mold of wanting to endlessly learn. This might be our intellectual interface. Thank you, you are my nerdy ASMR.
It seems like a slide hammer blow or two would pop the pins that hold the shackle in place through that thin layer of aluminum.
I don't even know what to say I am not a lock picker but I just love listening to these videos
haha I like how the company colored the lock with diecast blue (which gives off toxic fumes at high temperatures) and then they were like “here you go, by the way do you think you could melt it?” Trying to murder the LPLawyer so he can’t defeat any more of their locks, nicee that’s mad smart
I'm sure someone already commented that you can't cut aluminum with a torch, it doesn't have iron in it. I know you were not trying to cut it, but many it it. I'm just saying it.
Also, I used to work construction, and whenever a key was lost or left at home for the connex, they would use welding rod to melt the loop off the lock. Lol, not as elegant as picking, but very fast. Even with the steal box over the lock.
Love the videos. I have wanted to get into lock picking for years. Just to have it as another "tool" in my skills.
Suggestion: During the heat attacks, a clock in the background and perhaps accelerated footage would be great.
I will buy this lock for 2 reasons. (1) You told me to. And (2) because the company sent you and the rest of the top tier lock smiths on RUclips one to find ALL of its weaknesses. That’s some serious customer service and quality.
Pack lock
Blue one can be super secure with a hardened cup cover bolted from inside door with 1 large hardened bolt.
Also that anti hacksaw pin should be hardened and looose so it rolls with hacksaw blade
the tip 9:55 onwards is the kinda shit that changes your game forever but LPL just drops casually. legend
Being made out of aluminum my biggest concern out of those you addressed would be a prying attack. Using a pry bar and leveraging off of the hasp or chain and prying the top you would think it would bend or outright break quite easily. There isn't much material on the bottom of those steel pins that hold the shackle, and even with a thick steel pin inserted into the "neck" of the lock it should still bend quite easily.
The sharp corners inside the mouth could also be a weak point. Having them rounded would increase strength.
The only way I see practical to damage this lock by leverage attacks would be mitigated if not completely eliminated by that steel rod, unless this is locked to a solid steel door or some other surface hard enough where you could bend the entire lock without damaging the surface that's mounted to. Any lock not made of solid steel is going to be a low security affair so we're talking stuff like fence gates, sheds maybe get a cheap chain and secure your relatively cheap bike to it or similar. Situations where the lock is secure enough that if the thief wants the stuff they're likely just going to take the easy route of say destroying the chain or getting a sledgehammer and just busting through the shed walls or whatever
you are able to talk very clearly and it seems like you think about every word that comes out of your mouth before you say it. which makes you very easy to under stand.very well spoken and the best locker picker iv'e ever seen.its crazy how easly you bypass some of those, incredable
I totally agree with the steel lock body. Even though PacLock installed steel rods in the new design, aluminum is very soft and can be manipulated. A steel lock body would be more expensive but that point is moot if you are securing something valuable. Great video!!
The white hot from the steel while no light from the aluminum is confirmation of what you were saying about temperatures. That aluminum is wicking that heat away phenomenally.
points for the logo - i thought it would immediately vaporize
The logo was made using a laser. The logo would only disappear once all the paint on the lock completely disappeared and the lock became white.
Awesome video. I also hate to see a good lock destroyed, but I believe its ok in the matter of science and learning. This is how we all learn to improve things. I'm proud of PacLock for actually listening to the end user. Thank you for sharing this. Also, great picking LPL always a pleasure to watch you work the pins.
"A lock I would not hesitate to use"
Is there any higher praise? No there is not.
I think there was another negative before that:
19:23 "This isn't a lock I wouldn't hesitate to use".
Probably meant to say what you wrote, but it threw me a bit when I heard it.
What a clever way to implement customer feedback and gain priceless marketing all for the cost of a single lock. Much smarter than companies pouring untold amounts into RUclips ads that I always skip, and I suspect most people do too. I will look to PacLock for my next lock.
The craziest thing for me is how a team of dedicated professionals will do their best, yet time and time again, heros, the likes of LPL and Bosnian Bill will just put them to shame... thanks so much for the content. It's super interesting, got me into lockpicking, and its performing an invaluable service the lockpicking community as a whole. You guys rock!
My compliments to the designers, they knew that that had some good ideas, they avoided reinventing the wheel and decided to bring in other recognised experts in to get their opinions. I very much respect their attitude.
I suppose, if you were bolting it to a surface, you could include a 2-3 mm plate of very hardened steel on the outside face to gain a lot of protection with only a little material.
The essential difference between the liquid-melted lock body and that of this lock is that an aluminum wrought alloy was used here, as used for the production of extruded semi-finished products. Here the practically melted material at the outlet of the nozzle must have sufficient strength to hold the desired shape. A cast aluminum, on the other hand, has to melt thinly in order to fill even fine structures in a mold.
So much for my knowledge of materials science from studying mechanical engineering.
I like the design that it can be bolted to a surface, and if made from steel and toughened as stated would be a great lock to buy if available in the UK
At last a lock company that realises that certain skilled people like LPL can save them thousands of R&D money, and have fun at the same time!
I definitely support this lock, this took a long time for him to pick and hes usually able to get it in like 30 sec-1 min
I’m impressed with how long this lock took to even soften to the point where LPL was able to bend the metal back.
That American lock looks like it might be cast aluminum. In my experience, cast aluminum is more brittle than it’s barstock counterpart. Given that the PacLock looks milled, I wouldn’t be surprised if it was made of a pretty tough grade aluminum. I wonder tho if you could’ve gotten it open faster by heating further toward the elbow and then prying with some channel locks or vice grips to get better leverage over the needle noses. Very cool stuff +1
I love that not only is your favourite colour blue (obvs the best colour), but you have a favourite shade too! 💙
Good video!
Would be interested to see a picking attempt with the lock bolted to a door in real life application.
The softly spoken lock assassin! Thorough examination as usual. Love this stuff.
I'm absolutely hooked on the channel, LPL is amazing, the skill and knowledge he has is freaking great. I don't even have anything padlocked, but I now know if I do there's plenty I don't buy!
I really wonder if or how easily you could pick our front door. It hasn't got any really special lock, and it would probably be easily picked, but our door is really stupid and you have to almost violently pull it back while turning the key to actually open it, so you'd need to be operating the tension wrench and your lockpick and also be pulling at the doorknob at the same time. Would that be a significant hindrance?
You say it's Aluminum? Would it be susceptible to a Gallium attack?
if you have 5 hours... you see how thick that thing is?
You only need to attack the pins that hold the shackle in, though, which is where he was attacking with the torch.
This was my thought, starting around the pins above at the top.
Or mercury?
@@SparkY0 Would certainly create an Aluminum amalgam that would fail if (as with Gallium) the surface were scratched, but would inherently be much more hazardous to handle and dispose of afterward. By comparison, Gallium is benign.
Its odd, I was never much into lock picking, just a little. Ok, probably more than most but in any case this is one of my favorite channels.
When he’s picking it reminds me of my dentist checking my gum line ...
So a small drywall saw and saw around the mounted lock? A battery powered reciprocating saw to cut around the mounting? A brute force hammer and Coal chisel or bolster? Though that would be noisey. A single blow from a lump hammer to dislodge small mounting screws.
Does having it firmly in the vice just turn the vice into a huge heatsink for the lock? Saw a diff video where you hung a lock and melted the alum body and zinc innards.
If I were to guess, I'd say the beefy steel shackle absorbed a huge chunk of the heat & transmitted it away from the Al around the pins into the rest of the lock body via the key assembly. That would explain why the pins stay in place & why the dye on the lock body burned black before the upper body turned brown. I think an attack where the torch is aimed directly at the aluminum, maybe at the upper corner, would melt it pretty easily.
Another painful but useful procedure. I guess all cars complete crash tests with dummies...maybe LPL was that dummy! Hehe.😜Kidding of course.😊 Some good points raised and a thorough review as usual. The body fared much better than I thought it would, maybe because it has magnesium & silicon in it and it is weldable, otherwise the welding process would destroy itself, so a good trait to have to slow down torch attacks also.🍺✌
Aluminum is the preferred metal for use in Heat Sinks. It's a common component for anything requiring ready heat transfer, and distribution. The greater mass of the lock body will soak up, and store the more part of the heat you applied to the smaller upper part of the lock. The damage you caused is as much from oxidation of the aluminum, chemically destroying it rather than just melting it. The Lock is impressive, and well made, as are your Talents and skills Mr. LPL
what about applying tension on the top part of the lock while heating it up to brute force it open? that technique could drastically cut down on the amount of time needed to force it open...
I thought I saw that lock design, then you mentioned Bill taking a backsaw to it, then the dots were connecting. Anyway it would be harder to pick if you have it adhered to the door is something.
"So uh, we sent you a blue lock, right?" "Yes" "Why did we receive a brown and broken one now?" "..." "Well?" "This is The Lock Picking Lawyer..."
By clamping the lock in the manner you did the vise was a significant heatsink, which compromised your attack protocol. Despite the minimum amount of surface area the physical mass of the vise still outweighed the lower melting point of aluminum 600 deg C (Al) vs 1120+ deg C (Ir)
Here is my thought on another low tech defeat:
The outboard retaining pin is a weak spot. I noticed that as you removed the weakened tip, that the top of the lock body has hollow spaces in it.
If the aluminum has not been annealed and is brittle, you might try skipping part one and go straight to part two without any cutting needed. If so, a big plus is that part two is soundless except for the final snap
Part one:
Using a hack/sabre/ jewellers saw or dremel make a 1mm cut between the shackle and the outboard pin on three sides (4 sides if you can)-
Tip: I would try using a jewellers saw first, threading it in behind the affixed side if possible and just garrotte in a 1mm deep cut. If time is not pressing, the jewellers saw could just cut off the whole tip.
Part two, if needed, using a makeshift screw-jack:
If you can not get through on four sides, take a piece of hardened screw rod the length of the shackle gap and put two deep nuts threaded on to that rod. Knurl a pattern into the outward faces of two heavy flat washers to give them bite into the aluminum and place them outwards of the nuts. Place the rod, nuts, and washers inside the gap just outside of the cuts made and force the nuts away from each other with two opposing ratcheted box wrenches. This pressure should cause the cut points to expand, shear, and the top of the body tear open at the retaining pin. You might need a second, slightly longer screw piece if the aluminium bends to much before reaching the breaking point
I think that a second steel pin (or plate/wafer) should be inserted the entire width of the lock (as was done down the side in model 2) above the two retaining pins, if there is enough metal above the top of the shackle's tip to prevent my defeat. I would also not mill out any unnecessary voids in the top of the lock body.
From what I can tell these are made of solid aluminum bar stock so they're only machining what they need to because that's the cheapest option
Hello LPL, I really enjoy watching your videos but I would like to offer a couple of suggestions on this one, 1) an oxyacetylene torch would probably cut though the top of this lock in a few seconds, a plummer's torch by comparison is quite a mild heat, 2) as the lock is laid down in the vice a proportion of the heat is being transferred into the vice too quickly, my suggestion is to stand the lock up so only the bottom bit is located in the vice and therefore the heat has further to travel to the vice thereby keeping more of the heat at the top of the lock.
A 26 minute lpl video. This has to be good.
How about using a punch which is slightly thinner than those 2 bolts and hammer them through the body? The little bit of aluminium behind them shouldn't be a big obstacle.
Totally missed the opportunity to turn the melting vid into an old-timey silent movie.
You mean play it at a faster speed with a pianola proving accompaniment?
Yakkety Sax
@@two_tier_gary_rumain Yep.
ruclips.net/video/piOFPH7FyQI/видео.html
The cast iron vice ended up being a Heat Sink and sucked away all the heat from the alloy padlock. I have found through experience that It’s a good technique to use when welding cast iron as it keeps the welding area cooler when you can draw the heat away like this.. Great video.
"I'm going to melt it. Here's how to keep it pristine while picking, before I do that."
the only other attack someone might do which would require for no one to be at said place for good 3-5 hours but would not require you to be there with it, it is to scratch the surface of the lock above where the pins that hold to shackle in place after locked than put some gallium on it and wait for the gallium to break down the aluminum and make it brittle and easy to break making the body steal would fix that issue though. and it's not to much more expensive to buy gallium and wait longer than it is to buy a blow torch and a gas tank and be sitting there for 7 minute looking suspicious. gallium is 47 dollars per 40 grams on amazon and a blow torch is around 40 dollars with the tank and the head piece at home-depot.
Just a thought, if the two pins holding the top of the shackle pin were inserted 90 degrees to the current orientation and the shackle head installed or milled 90 degrees offset to the current "flats" could they provide dual purpose as anti drill\cut pins and as the shackle retainer?
Probably. Not a bad thought, but it would prevent PL from using an off the shelf part.
I only just noticed what your logo is, and I love the symbolism.
close your eyes and listen to his voice: the holographic doctor from Star Trek is teaching you how to pick locks. you can't unhear it.
Hi there, 3 things 1, if you had held the lock in the vice at the bottom right corner the vice wouldn’t have absorbed a lot of the heat. 2 hold the torch, so the end of the blue cone of the flame is just touching the metal. This is the hottest part of the flame. As a very interesting experiment, have you ever tried injecting gallium into an aluminium lock as gallium, totally destroys aluminium by literally being absorbed by the aluminium, and the aluminium crumbles like chalk.
I love the way LPL and other members of the locksport community interact with these companies to try to produce the most efficient locks possible. It's really cool seeing the companies humbly take their advice
Lots of people are thinking it's dumb to torch a lock, but let me tell you:
I know some tradesmen that had their tools locked up with cheap aluminum locks. Thieves torched 2 of their locks over the course of a few months.
The first lock was fully exposed, so they just melted it enough to pop the shackle
They build a steel cage around the lock, which worked for a while. Then one day, they showed up to get their supplies, only to find an open door and a pile of slag in the dirt.
This was in a nice neighborhood, too. Problem was, there was construction going on in a new development. Lots of people not from the area just taking whatever wasn't nailed down. And slagging locks to get to the rest of the stuff
I'd have set those pins in a fair bit deeper, but that's about it really, that and making it out of steel (or carbide?)
building off a previous comment, the shackle is held to the lock cylinder body with a roll pin, why not rotate the catch pins and the shackle 90 degrees, drill a new hole in the shackle to accomodate the rotation. this would allow the catch pins to be used as retainers and cut protection with relatively little machining... unless the shackle has been hardened past being able to be drilled for the modification.
Nice vid LPL. A few observations:
Firstly, don't believe you're not concentrating the hottest part of the flame on the target area. The end is usually hottest.
You appear to be playing the flame primarily onto the steel shackle because it was clearly heating up first. Not sure that's the best ploy here.
The steel shackle was obviously going to dissipate the heat from whichever area you concentrated the flame upon.
But I'm not convinced heating it up first advanced your attack in any useful way.
The target however was the pins. Therefore I would have directed the hotter END of the flame at each side of the bar containing the pins, swapping over once one side had melted. And I believe it would had you done so. I might even shield the shackle to direct more heat onto the aluminium. Yep, I'm a Brit aircraft engineer.
Otherwise, this is an inspiring vid. I'm currently working on a motorcycle security lock design, so yours and Bill's work is very very valuable. Thank you.
Aluminium seems on the face of it to be a shit material for a lock. But this one proves we shouldn't fully rule it out. And where weight is an issue (as in a bike scenario), it's well worth considering, but only if the inherent vulnerabilities of the materisl's characteristics can be overcome. I'm working on this, though every viable solution turns out to be very expensive.
PSWas the American lock thinner cast aluminum? That might also explain why it melted more easily.
With regards to your comment about them adding a steel rod in the back.... to improve that further still, if they added a brass tube with a hardened steel pin inside that, it would become almost impossible to cut through with a saw. Once through the aluminium and the brass tube, the tube would act as a bearing allowing the hardened steel pin to roll. This would stop a saw from being able to bite into the pin. Just a thought.
Building on another comment, I think they could offer higher security variant by simply mounting armor plates to the lock body utilizing those four mounting holes.
Interesting thought... there are a whole bunch of armored shutter locks featured on my channel. They are popular in Europe, particularly Italy. The purpose of them is add security to corrosion resistant brass locks. Unfortunately, the added complexity makes them pretty pricy.
I love to see that in each and every video of LPL's, the comment section is always so positive. Keep doin your thing sir.
Would love to see how this aluminum lock would handle an encounter with gallium.
Should be able to sand the anodizing off, put a good dollop of gallium on - wait a couple of days for it to “soak in”, then just tear the aluminum apart almost with your fingers.
Stay tuned. 😉
This was my first thought watching the video... Now I need to hunt down how that went. I have a bit of gallium kicking around just in case a situation arises where it would be useful.
LPL's followup: ruclips.net/video/jeghGhVdt9s/видео.html
Someone else's video: ruclips.net/video/k919f7Qi4es/видео.html (faster and more dramatic, but makes me appreciate that LPL doesn't add soundtracks).
I think that it may also be made of compacted powdered aluminum (via powdered metallurgy) which has the same melting point but conducts heat poorly, relative to other aluminum-stock so it can melt right where the hottest part of the flame hits but nowhere else.
Imagine he gets arrested and while he's in the car all the cops just hear "a nice click out of 1, click on 2..." and he rips off the handcuffs
Feeding my theory that he’s lawyer by day, hitman by night, RUclipsr by hobby.
FWIW, Anodizing doesn't use dye. It's a purely electrolytic process, which oxidizes the outer layer of the aluminum. The color is determined by the thickness of the oxide layer.
19:23
LPL: And this isn't a lock that I would not hesitate to use.
So, you _would_ hesitate to use it? 🤣
I think he actually said "This IS a lock I would not hesitate to use." But he stuttered a bit at "is". The stutter made it sound like he was saying "isn't".
I think that your vice may have absorbed a lot of the heat from the lock. It might not have done as well hanging from a chain, or especially if it is held in some fireproof ceramic insulation