Just so you know, the No oxide paste is not required by the conductor manufacturers or most panel and equipment manufacturers. The aluminum has been changed to not require it. But, there are some pieces of equipment that the manufacturer does require it. So, if it’s there, no issue. If it’s not, may or may not be an issue.
Apply anti-oxidation grease or mineral oil to ALL connections in a breaker box, including ALL lugs, stabs, wire clamps, splices, terminal and bonding screws, and neutral/ground bars, and any and all wire to wire or wire to terminal connections, even if you don't need to. If it was my house, I would also wire brush all copper and aluminum wires and terminals and apply ox-guard before connection. Also apply it to outlets, switches, and lights, basically any place that the wire makes contact. Do double wiggle the wire and retorque all terminals, and put anti ox on the receptacles, wire nuts and Ideal/Wago splices, ground screws, and terminals also, a well as the ground wire clamp, blades on a plug and the hot, neutral, and ground slots on all outlets and light bulb sockets. 💙 T.E.N.
Looks just like and has the same mannerisms as a guy i used to work with at the university of ky.. dude was in the communications/ it dept.. like they could be brothers.. really close resemblance, is crazy.. dude was a real good dude also..
Blunt end screws or not! If there are wires on the back side of the hole, it will get damaged, especially if its a feeder or a tight bundle that cant get pused back. All wires should be away from the holes.
👍🏻 nice video, It looks that panel was supposed to be wired as a sub panel based on the conductors entering the panel. If so, the grounds and neutrals should be separated.
And the bonding screw removed from the neutral bus bar. Often you will find a jumper from neutral to ground which also should not be there for a sub panel. And neutrals on one bus bar and grounds on separate bus bar regardless of main (best practice) or sub panel (essential). Both bus bars are jumpered together and bonded if the panel is main.
Great video, and frankly.....it's amazing how few pre-rough in inspection videos there are that "walk the checklist" on what an inspector is looking for. Of course there are different requirements by state, etc....there aren't enough that show consistency. As an example, I'm adding new homeruns to my existing box. No where can I find the "state" they must be in for the pre-inspection. Do I strip the wires/label, and attached the ground, but leave the black/white simply capped? It's the same issue about receptacles. Some folks strip/pigtail/and cap each receptacle for pre inspection. Others simply label the wires and let the romax hang out of the box 6 inches!! And finally, there seems to be no checklist from any state that a DIY person can use to get ready properly for an inspection. So frustrating!. Again, thanks for your video...
If there was a sub panel right next to the main panel, and you wanted to move one or two circuits to the sub panel from the main panel, could you splice the original wires inside the main panel with new wires coming into the main panel from the sub panel? Or must the spliced wires all be contained in the main panel only?
If you add a sub panel beside the main panel, the only splices would be in the main panel. The sub panel would not require any splices, as only the circuit wires that you need extended from the main to the sub panel need to be spliced. P.S. Splice all the wires in a circuit, (Hot, neutral, and ground) and take them to the sub panel. 💙 T.E.N.
FYI RUclips has your settings set to "videos made for kids" meaning you can't enable auto play on your videos and it affects the amount of views and subscriptions $$$ you can get. Thanks for the videos and good luck with the channel.
At 1:55 on the right hand side. Good eye, it’s not so obvious when the video is running because he is moving the camera quite a bit up and down while filming.
They are Eaton BR also in family of cutler hammer. Your thinking of the true Cutler hammer CH which have beige colored triggers. Not interchangeable but same family. I know confusing scenarios.
Are the "Recommendations" added to your report, or just verbally mentioned to the customer? Do you say anything to the home owner (assuming the customer is not the home owner). Also, how long does it take to inspect a home? This looks very detailed. Thanks for doing these! Love watching your videos!
Not a junction box, that is to extend wires because it is a retrofit. The splices will never get hotter than the wires, there is far more mass of metal in the splices esp. wirenut splices.
Electric panel isn’t allowed to be used as a junction box. Well except for when adding a generator panel next to it that has junctions required in the panel?
If you're saying that you can't make splices in a panel, that's incorrect. Splices are allowed as long the enclosure does not exceed its box fill limits.
@@pld8993 Canadian code apparently doesn't allow splices in a load center with a new installation, as a workmanship rule e.g. "no hack jobs in new work". Their code does allow splices for retrofits, but this is widely unknown or misinterpreted.
@@1djbecker That rule apparently applies to splices that are used to extend circuits through the panel, feeding through to another location; not for circuits that are terminated within that panel. The NEC allows feeding through the panel.
As an electrician its my opinion that your hen pecking those two wires. Its not against code. Could they have done a neater job? sure. But its not a violation.
“Best practice” is nothing more than someones opinion about how something should be done. A violation of said “best practice” isn’t a code violation. How can you write up a best practice violation as a deficiency or a safety concern? You said “ the wires should have been done the right way”, there isn’t a code violation the way they are installed so it shouldn’t even be mentioned on the report. Stuff like this adds unnecessary expense to the owner that it’s trying to sell the house and can add unnecessary concerns onto the potential buyer. The term best practice isn’t listed in article 100 of the NEC.
Just so you know, the No oxide paste is not required by the conductor manufacturers or most panel and equipment manufacturers. The aluminum has been changed to not require it. But, there are some pieces of equipment that the manufacturer does require it. So, if it’s there, no issue. If it’s not, may or may not be an issue.
Why would you ever not apply the cheap antioxidant to aluminum wiring???? Never have someone who cuts corners do your work
@@chopshop523When the manufacturer states you don't need it.
Apply anti-oxidation grease or mineral oil to ALL connections in a breaker box, including ALL lugs, stabs, wire clamps, splices, terminal and bonding screws, and neutral/ground bars, and any and all wire to wire or wire to terminal connections, even if you don't need to. If it was my house, I would also wire brush all copper and aluminum wires and terminals and apply ox-guard before connection.
Also apply it to outlets, switches, and lights, basically any place that the wire makes contact. Do double wiggle the wire and retorque all terminals, and put anti ox on the receptacles, wire nuts and Ideal/Wago splices, ground screws, and terminals also, a well as the ground wire clamp, blades on a plug and the hot, neutral, and ground slots on all outlets and light bulb sockets. 💙 T.E.N.
Loving the longer videos on RUclips! Currently looking at my breaker like I know something
In school now for home inspection, headed to Nashville for vacation and potential house hunting
In Canada, we require a barrier over the service entrance and main breaker, where you cannot run the those wires from the breaker.
Required in USA now too in the new code
Looks just like and has the same mannerisms as a guy i used to work with at the university of ky.. dude was in the communications/ it dept.. like they could be brothers.. really close resemblance, is crazy.. dude was a real good dude also..
Blunt end screws or not! If there are wires on the back side of the hole, it will get damaged, especially if its a feeder or a tight bundle that cant get pused back. All wires should be away from the holes.
Thank you Captain Obvious
👍🏻 nice video, It looks that panel was supposed to be wired as a sub panel based on the conductors entering the panel. If so, the grounds and neutrals should be separated.
The meter might be behind it on the other side of the wall?
And the bonding screw removed from the neutral bus bar. Often you will find a jumper from neutral to ground which also should not be there for a sub panel. And neutrals on one bus bar and grounds on separate bus bar regardless of main (best practice) or sub panel (essential). Both bus bars are jumpered together and bonded if the panel is main.
Great video, and frankly.....it's amazing how few pre-rough in inspection videos there are that "walk the checklist" on what an inspector is looking for. Of course there are different requirements by state, etc....there aren't enough that show consistency. As an example, I'm adding new homeruns to my existing box. No where can I find the "state" they must be in for the pre-inspection. Do I strip the wires/label, and attached the ground, but leave the black/white simply capped? It's the same issue about receptacles. Some folks strip/pigtail/and cap each receptacle for pre inspection. Others simply label the wires and let the romax hang out of the box 6 inches!! And finally, there seems to be no checklist from any state that a DIY person can use to get ready properly for an inspection. So frustrating!. Again, thanks for your video...
Doing a service charge you land the wires on a breaker to avoid splices
Not a mention of grounding the service panel. ( I did see it was grounded to a water pipe.)
I don’t know why I watch these but here I am
Are the wires long enough, looks like that's why they were run as they were.
Did the short-circuit current rating of the main breaker exceed that of the available fault current?
Any concern with that water line right next to it?
Very informative, Thanks!
If there was a sub panel right next to the main panel, and you wanted to move one or two circuits to the sub panel from the main panel, could you splice the original wires inside the main panel with new wires coming into the main panel from the sub panel? Or must the spliced wires all be contained in the main panel only?
If you add a sub panel beside the main panel, the only splices would be in the main panel. The sub panel would not require any splices, as only the circuit wires that you need extended from the main to the sub panel need to be spliced. P.S. Splice all the wires in a circuit, (Hot, neutral, and ground) and take them to the sub panel. 💙 T.E.N.
FYI RUclips has your settings set to "videos made for kids" meaning you can't enable auto play on your videos and it affects the amount of views and subscriptions $$$ you can get. Thanks for the videos and good luck with the channel.
Fixed! I had no idea lol
What are your thoughts on tandem breakers?
Wire size doesnt have to match breaker for AC units. Article 440.
is the insulation surrounding the service conductor wires and peaking into the panel okay? thanks
@InspectorAJ What is wrong with the dryer wires running behind the service lines? What problems can that cause?
Can a sub panel be installed upside down?
Yes , just never have a breaker that when the handle is down the breaker would be in the on position .
They make panels with the main down low, not up top. 💙 T.E.N.
No drp loop on new pull makes me sad 😞
Good lord I look like I’ve never slept. Ever.
“It would behoove you”...your military/veteran status is showing...hooah!
😂
What about the bonding of the i
Panel
Question #1 is always is this a main or a sub?
How about the arc fault brakers?
Is nobody going to point out the cut/slice in the insulation on the second wire down on the 30 amp breaker?
At 1:55 on the right hand side. Good eye, it’s not so obvious when the video is running because he is moving the camera quite a bit up and down while filming.
I used my ocd in my breaker box so it's perfect, lol
Never seen blk cuttler hammer breakers before?
They are Eaton BR also in family of cutler hammer. Your thinking of the true Cutler hammer CH which have beige colored triggers. Not interchangeable but same family. I know confusing scenarios.
Woo 900th subscriber!!
Great information ℹ
No marrettes allowed in a panel !
Are the "Recommendations" added to your report, or just verbally mentioned to the customer? Do you say anything to the home owner (assuming the customer is not the home owner). Also, how long does it take to inspect a home? This looks very detailed.
Thanks for doing these! Love watching your videos!
I tell the buyer and also report it.
groung wire was insufficient even for 1980's standards
The thin ground wire matches my 1964 house. As does the old style of Romex in on image (at the cable entry, top right corner).
#4 is ok for 200 amp grounding 250.66
So touch it to make sure it's not energized? Got it. I hope I never get it lol
Proper procedure is to use the non touch voltage detector then the back of your hand.
wow on the spliced wires. in canada that's a fail. you can't use the panel as a junction box due to extra heat from splices.
Not a junction box, that is to extend wires because it is a retrofit. The splices will never get hotter than the wires, there is far more mass of metal in the splices esp. wirenut splices.
Was the panel bonded?
Super. 💙 T.E.N.
Good stuff!
Electric panel isn’t allowed to be used as a junction box. Well except for when adding a generator panel next to it that has junctions required in the panel?
If you're saying that you can't make splices in a panel, that's incorrect. Splices are allowed as long the enclosure does not exceed its box fill limits.
@@pld8993 Canadian code apparently doesn't allow splices in a load center with a new installation, as a workmanship rule e.g. "no hack jobs in new work".
Their code does allow splices for retrofits, but this is widely unknown or misinterpreted.
@@1djbecker That rule apparently applies to splices that are used to extend circuits through the panel, feeding through to another location; not for circuits that are terminated within that panel. The NEC allows feeding through the panel.
@@pld8993 Do you think that's the reason Canadians have the 'no Marrettes in a panel, ever' as a national aversion?
Excellence
Ah. The 1 dislike was obviously someone that failed.
LOL uh oh
Are you kidding,? Best practices? Either it meets code or it doesn't.
As an electrician its my opinion that your hen pecking those two wires. Its not against code. Could they have done a neater job? sure. But its not a violation.
That's a sloppy panel
Electrician will tell the dryer wires are ok
man what a hack job that is
“Best practice” is nothing more than someones opinion about how something should be done. A violation of said “best practice” isn’t a code violation. How can you write up a best practice violation as a deficiency or a safety concern? You said “ the wires should have been done the right way”, there isn’t a code violation the way they are installed so it shouldn’t even be mentioned on the report. Stuff like this adds unnecessary expense to the owner that it’s trying to sell the house and can add unnecessary concerns onto the potential buyer. The term best practice isn’t listed in article 100 of the NEC.
Sloppy work
Typical superficial home inspector report. DIY’ers might find this informative but it’s totally lacking in substance.