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Just a quick note on turning the main breaker off... the main breaker recently went bad in my electrical panel, and we discovered (thankfully before working on anything) that everything still had power when the main breaker was switched off. Always double check before doing work
The same can be true of DIY plumbing. It is just as likely to improperly install something as simply as a sink trap and leak sewer gases into your home.
and you should know enough to cite examples if you think this guy (who has 3/4 of a million subscribers and 10k likes on this video alone), is wrong. How may subscribers do YOU have,@@RadioRich100 ?
I learn a lot from your videos even though I'm an extremely comfortable DIYer with electrical. Here's a safety tip that I use in my home, pertaining to the 200A main panel and 100A subpanel, because I'm always aware the main panel is always live with 200A coming in from the street (100A subpanel has a circuit breaker in the main panel): (1) no storage or debris in front of the panel and area is well lit, including a dedicated flashlight on the side of the panel, so it can easily and safely be accessed; (2) thick 1" safety mat in front of the panel; (3) use insulating safety gloves (e.g., Gorilla gloves); and (4) use insulated electrical tools (e.g., Klein or Knipex). Even with all these safety steps, just as you demonstrated in your video, I did slip when replacing the panel door, which fell into the main panel and turned off the main breaker of the 200A panel (first time it happen in all my years, so I'm thankful for stressing safety).
The cold sweats I was getting every time he was pointing to anything close to the main input, I wish there was a way to just turn off the power at the meter without having to call the power company then I would be super chill about working on a panel.
There is. You can pull the meter out to disconnect power to the house. Inside the meter box is a handle to detach it. Just make sure your main is off first so you don't get sparks as you do it.
@@SongOfStorms411 in many areas no one except the utility is to touch the meter can. Not even an electrician. If you tamper with it you risk getting fined - it's a big no-no. There are even locks on it sometimes
I'm sure it was perspective... if you see how he moves his hand over the main breaker he never pulls it away, so when he is pointing to the mains he is probably still a good 3 inches away...
You are not allowed to tamper with an electric meter at all no matter where you live. All meters have some type of lock or anti-tamper device on them and as soon as they're removed you can be fined or even lose your service. If you're lucky the electric company will just put a padlock on your meter base but they could also disconnect it at the service drop. Also not only is it illegal to tamper with a meter, it's very dangerous because those top connectors are still live with no protection at all. Those are the last thing you want to be shocked by, trust me.
You're so right about labeling being off. I did some work in my dining room where I took down a non-load bearing wall and installed some wainscoting. The wall had some electrical run through it for a switch so I needed to rewire that and since I was taking the outlet covers off anyway, I figured I would replace the older outlets and switches. Anyway, I had a breaker labeled "dining room" and shut that off. Now my lights didn't have power so I was able to safely rerun the switch to a J-box, etc. Then I checked the outlet on the wall 1, expecting it to be off. Nope, I had power. I ran downstairs and found it on a different breaker. Strange. I then checked the outlet on wall 2, again, expecting it to be off. Nope... power so I shut that breaker off. Rinse and repeat for walls 3 and 4. So I basically have 5 different circuits powering my dining room (one for the lights and then 4 for each outlet on the 4 walls). None of the other breakers were labeled to control part of the dining room. Crazy. Moral of the story... check EVERY receptacle that you will be working on and never assume that the power is off to it.
I'm a handyman with over 40 years of experience in everything from automobiles to toilets (jack of all trades; master of none!). 1) A client had problems with her kitchen, in that several outlets would go out at the same time. Although not a DIY-er, she is very capable, so, I told her to check the circuit breaker box, look for the one that was tripped, which took a bit of explanation over the phone, as she didn't know what that meant! She said that none appeared to be tripped. I, then, told her to look for the big label on the box door and/or little labels next to each breaker (I had never seen her circuit breaker box, so I gave her as much info as possible). Then, came the bomb: There were NO labels whatsoever! An hour later, I came by, and, sure enough, she was correct! I couldn't believe it! It took the two of us nearly 3 hours to identify all the outlets, in which I applied a new door label and individual labels; just a couple of weeks after that, I was convinced that it wasn't 100% correct! Regardless, the box didn't turn out to be the problem. Her 15-year-old GFCIs were shot (4 of them were in series, such that if even one was out, the next one(s) down the line wouldn't work, either. So, I replaced all of them (generally speaking, they should be tested every month and replaced every 10 years or so, depending on usage, but, hardly anyone ever does that, myself included!). Major point: NEVER trust circuit box labels! ALWAYS check voltage on the outlet or wiring you're working on! 2) Another client had a peculiar problem where her front yard and/or backyard porch outlets would stop working, but, the circuit box never tripped! After about a half-hour of investigation, I discovered that each of those outlets was in series with a corresponding GFCI in the garage! As they were just over 10 years old, I replaced the two GFCIs, and, voila, no more troubles! Whoever installed them in the 10+ year old home, had stripped too much insulation off the GFCI wires, such that just the right amount of wiggling/shaking - - such as hard pushing/pulling an electric cord or tap into the porch sockets - - would short them! I, then, put labels on the porch sockets and the garage sockets to ensure that future problems would be more easily solved!
When I bought my current house, while it was empty, I made a map of every outlet and light, to show which breaker it was connected to. I am SO GLAD I did that! Thanks for the great info. I hope that panel was not live, as close as you were getting your fingers to everything.
I can definitely agree on how a breaker location listing can be misleading. With the house I recently purchased I have found one breaker is listed as Hannah's Room. I bought one of those breaker locator units and have been going room by room and creating a spreadsheet in the computer which will eventually be printed out and taped to the panel so I will know every floor, room, and device what breaker it's controlled by. Bedrooms will be named geographically, not who sleeps there.
i love how basic you get, we need that. build from the ground up. talk to us like we are twelve years old. basics, then build. i love this channel. keep them coming!!!!!
I'll probably never deal with this kind of work (still too timid to change an outlet lol!) But I enjoy the education as it makes me feel like a more knowledgeable home owner!
I liked this-I have three comments. 1) I always turn the main breaker off BEFORE removing the panel 2) I would have liked you explaining the simple/standard breaker hookup with one black wire BEFORE discussing the AFCI and GFCI that has the addition of the white wire and 3) explaining why and how the AFCI, Arc-fault circuit interrupter, and GFCI, Ground-fault circuit interrupter, work. If you DID do these, I missed them or misunderstood. Good job!
Your video is very instructional, yet for a nonelectrical person like myself it is a bit intimidating. I still find it very interesting at least to know. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback and I completely agree you need to be competent and know your local code prior to jumping into DIY electrical projects. Alternatively being educated on some of these topics also helps you to hire and work with a professional 👍
It's a little weird, but the hot bus bars actually "zigzag" across the board, so the left and right incoming phases actually power alternating breaker slots on both sides of the panel. That's how the 240v breakers are able to grab both 120v phases from the same side of the panel. It took me embarrassingly long to figure that out though. One of those things I always just assumed without giving it due thought.
I stopped the video as soon as he explained that the two hots are left and right and was about to write the same comment. As Marc said they actually do a sort of zig zag so every other notch on each side is the opposite 120v feed (or phase is actually the term) thus allowing 240v breakers to have one feed from each 120v feed.
at 12:24 where you are saying the left side wire powers the breakers on the left and the right side powers the breakers on the right. I don't think that is the case as, for example, the breakers on the left are "every other one" on the left...the breakers on one side or the other alternate between the left and right input power, that is how you get 220 using a double breaker on the same side be it the right or the left.
So many comments on this, but I do think that he meant to speak of the left and right bus bars. Funny thing on my 2 year old Siemens panel - it is actually opposite as the main breaker swaps the left and right phases. I found this out when I was trying to balance the loads on my panel for whenever my generator is supplying power. I was measuring the current on the 2 incoming phases and the changes kept being opposite of what I expected based on what was running. I was surprised that Siemens would do this given how some many inspectors always want black feeds on the left and red on the right in the meter socket, main panel, and any subpanels.
Well done bro! Explaining was easy for you like your a teacher ! Step step you had my attention ~ so I have also learned that all breakers are not the same , I went to Loew and got what I thought was my breaks 2 pole 50/50 -60//60 and it was $18 for one I neede 2 it was the wrong one and I had to go back ( I didn’t open the panel , this wanted to do more research and pow! Your video of this information was perfect so inane t back , replace , found the right one it turns out one breaker was $35 bucks / so I’m waiting on tomorrow to turn off all my breaker / mark the ones I’m moving and get to it Thanks again
Thank you for the very good information. I'm trying to setup a generator to my home for blackout situations. I know my limitations and will hire an electrician but I do like knowing what the electrician is talking about.
11:20 If you ever run into that situation where there are two wires under the screw of one breaker. Just remove both wires, find a like or greater sized pig tail. And wire nut the 3 wires together. Use the pig tail to attach to the breaker. This is allowed in the code book. Doubling, or even tripling, wires under a signal screw is against code.
Please provide the location in the national code. I've looked and from I see the code that was in place in 2014 is still in place today which is that if a breaker is so labeled, two wires(legs of the same circuit) can be terminated under the same breaker screw terminal.
@@davids7209 I ain’t gonna lie, I’m going off of 2008 code. Which is what I was trained on in 2010. Haven’t been in the field per se. I’m an electrician building submarines, whole different ball field.
Thanks for the video , removing my Jacuzzi tub and putting in a shower and was wondering how to terminate the jacuzzi power now I have a much better understanding of what to do . Thanks
Love this content. It really helps me to understand better. Because I want to build up my experience where I don't fear this and can do some of the work myself.
Love the channel, excellent advise, but I would add, always turn the main breaker off first, before removing cover and then test with a meter Always wear gloves, as an extra insulating safety precaution NEVER put both hands in the panel, this can lead to electric shock.
Outstanding the way you explain things. I have a question. When you install an interlock and you add the breaker that you flip on as you flip off the main. How is it that one breaker can back feed and power up the entire panel.
I'm not interested in working on the breaker box myself, but I DO want to understand what I'm looking at, and understand what the electrician is talking about when I get the run down of what he's done. This is the tutorial I was looking for. A couple tips I use are 1. I have a cell phone pic on the door showing the normal configuration for the box to compare everyday operations to some future issue that might come up ... say an electrician leaves but he failed to reset the main. If I didn't know what the main was supposed to look like, I'd have to call him back to flip a switch, which might not be until the next day. But .. why? 2. I affixed a button LED light to the box for power outage. A tap and I can see which breaker is the problem in what would otherwise be total darkness of the basement. 3. I wouldn't expect anyone else to do this but I printed out a rough layout of the house, and color coded breakers for the area. Mine outlines which breaker controls which outlet, ceiling light and appliance, something I did with the former landlord with meter test by test. But that's a little too Karen for most people. It was helpful for us because it told us at a glance which circuits were already maxed out, and which could still be tapped for what we wanted to do (install a closet security system and router). Later the electrician was ecstatic because he only had to test after the breaker like he usually does, only with more confidence about what else was lurking on the line. Later, the landlord and I did all the floors of the property and garage that way, with outdoor security lighting/generator outlets, and pool heater, and I put them in a 'Landlord Book' for when he decided to sell the property. (And then he sold the property and evicted me, but that's another story.) :D
They do make protective covers that go over the incoming power lugs. Two in a set for about $15 (when I bought them) from Home Depot online. Have not installed yet as I am waiting until the next time I remove the cover. Enjoyed the video.
Got my Zinsco 😬 panel replaced last year. It appeared to work fine, but it was highly suggested it be replaced. It had to be relocated out of my bedroom closet. So I decided to have it installed to the back of the house. I have SO many open slots available now in the new panel.
@@SeanBaker Interesting, I got mine done right after I bought my house in May 2021. I was told it was from the 1950’s and that it needed replacing, and I figured better safe than sorry
I moved into a house that the electric panel was not labeled. I have labeled all but 4 breakers. I can not find out what they power. I have left them off. How can I find out what they power? I can't find a video on this at all. I see videos on how to find a breaker but I have no idea what they power.
Excellent, excellent, excellent. If you EVER do a video on installing a sub-panel, I would think that would fill a real need. Every sub-panel video on youtube that I have seen, and I have seen many, many of them (as I am getting ready to install a sub-panel in my place) has serious holes and even deficiencies, or places where they are vague. I am reading tons of different stuff as well. A good, solid, complete video on installing a sub-panel would be so fantastic; as what youtube presently has is seriously lacking insofar as I have been able to tell. But you, sir, are the KING of clarity. Please, f you can, consider making a video on installing a sub-panel.
It should be noted that no matter what power can NOT be shut off to the main breaker at all unless your house has a separate main breaker from the box which is usually outside near the meter base, however in most cases those are locked to prevent tampering with especially if the power was shut off to the property. Then messing with a meter or removing anti-tampering devices or locks is not only illegal, it's very dangerous due to two lugs still be live from the service drop.
In a lot of jurisdictions if you have a main on the outside of the property (meter main) legally the utility company has NO control over the main breaker in the encloser. Thier authority ends at the output of the meter socket. They will try to lock your main but that is because they are lazy buggers and do not want to actually pull the meter to sleeve it. Tell them to stay out of the main IMO. They are more than willing to make other trades life a pain in the butt just trying to pass it on :P. also if they lock the main they may actually be violating NEC code depending on what version of the code your area has adopted
Super helpful, thank you! Question: My garage (detached) is on a single 20 amp breaker off the main house / main breaker. The garage then has its own smaller breaker panel and a "Main" double 30 amp breaker. This is an old house, a lot of janxy things to discover. When I pop a breaker in the garage, it isn't popping a breaker in the garage panel, but instead popping the breaker at the house (20 Amp single). It seems to me it's because the double 30 amp "main" at the garage is obviously higher than the 20 at the house, so the house pops first. Also, the 20 at the house is just a single. I'm wondering if that should be a double 30, then go down to 20 at the garage, then 15 for individual things like outlets, lights, etc. Feedback from the pros appreciated! I'm handy, but if this is a job for a pro, that would be good to hear as well. Cheers!
You did a good job explaining what's inside your load center. Working on or around energized equipment is definitely not for a DYI'er. Different levels of PPE's are required for different voltages and it's probably over kill from a safety standpoint but qualified electricians in my state are required to go full rambo. The PPE required is super uncomfortable and HOT. But .. you better not let OSHA catch you because they will fine you for not having the full arc flash suit on if your in any kind of panel.
@One I totally understand your position on this. I have been retired for about 10 years now but the PPE requirements were just coming into law back then and were being enforced in the state of California. Just like the title 24 stuff and the required safety training. I know it's totally ridiculous but it is what it is. Bottom line if you work for a company that requires it you either go by their rules or find another employer that doesn't require it.
I suggest you consult an elactrician that knows what he is talking about. This guy is an unqualified hack who ONLY THINKS he knows what he's talking about!!! Talking to a tradesman COULD PREVENT YOUR HOME FROM BURNING DOWN!!! Is it worth it???
there is alot of red tagging on this panel in my state the the main one that is urking me though is the the homeruns in that single 2inch causing bundling , one niched wire causing arcing can cause that whole mess to catch on fire before the breakers decide to trip and cut the power off
Excellent explanation, thank you. I have a 15 amp GFCI for my outside outlets that is always, always tripping...for a start, I don't know why my electrician only wired them for 15, to me they should be 20 amp, so I can use my chop saw etc. without it tripping. Annoying indeed.
Note that even with the main breaker being switched off, working in the load center is still dangerous. The lugs on the incoming side of this breaker are still hot and deadly. That being said, there people with enough experience to work with the main breaker still on!
Depending on what I'm doing, I work a panel hot most times. The key is to purchase the breaker ahead of time, remove the wire from the old breaker, remove the breaker to be replaced, screw the circuit hot wire back into the new breaker BEFORE seating the new breaker into the vacant slot then turn it on. I think this whole process typically takes me 2 to 3 minutes tops.
My friend, you are a talented 'Master of all trades." You can walk into a house and do whatever there is to be done to perfection, on top of that you have the time to teach other ignorant guys like me the basics. I enjoy watching your videos immensely . Thank you very much. .
(on your last point in the video you talk about the cover of the panel) If you had an open breaker cover tab on the panel cover that would cover an empty breaker couldn't you just put a breaker in without attaching any wires, but leave it in the off position? For example if I had a GE panel and was using 1/2 breakers but I only had one breaker installed in that slot couldn't I just put another (space holding) breaker next to it so that it fills the cover slot? but don't attach wires to it and leave it in off position)
Hello and thank you for a great presentation. I have a 15 AMP circuit breaker that trips when I plug a vacuum cleaner in my living room. I am sure based on your video that by plugging the vacuum cleaner it exceeds the 15 AMP limit. Is it safe to replace the 15 AMP with a 20 AMP? Thank you for your help.
No. And why would you assume this guy, who presents incorrect electrical information all the time, is the person to ask? You really think people who create RUclips content know anything? He doesn't even know the NEC prohibits double-lugging everywhere in the US. Neither does he know that the 240VAC coming in (not "two 120 volt lines") are INTERLEAVED in the panel and they do not supply the left and right, respectively. UGH. We are doomed.
Your vacuum does not draw more than 15 amps. Depending what else is on the circuit, the aggregate current is tripping the breaker. If this happens often, then the breaker is likely weak (they are not switch rated and are not intended to be constantly tripped) and tripping sooner than a new one would. Nevertheless, the wire is only rated for 15A so you cannot protect it with a 20A breaker. Find out what else is on that circuit that you plug your vacuum into and turn it off while you vacuum. If that's not the issue... replace the breaker. We know it's not your vacuum because it only happens on the living room circuit.
I know it’s been a while since you posted this video. But I do have a question. Say I have space to add a lot of circuits, is there a cap of amps I’d be able to add? If so, how do I calculate it? I’m wanting to add a 50 amp and 20 amp circuit to my garage.
If that circuit keeps "tripping" for no apparent reason, that would be a good indication. Breakers usually work until they don't. I know that sounds stupid but when a breaker goes bad it will generally trip and not reset.
Thank for the information that led to me doing something I'm not qualified to do, but still resulted in me getting my own water pump back on since my landlord won't send anyone
The underground lines come up from the bottom to the meter, but the lines that come from the meter through the wall to the panel are coming horizontally, allowing the master breaker to be on top or bottom, depending on how high the meter is in relation to how high the panel is on the inside. If the ground is low on the outside of the house where the meter is, I could see it being low enough to read, making it low compared to the panel inside the house, hence the bottom master.
His power comes in from the bottom because his panel is back to back with the meter. The panel feeder comes out of the bottom of the rear of the meter pan. If his panel was in the basement the power would come in the top of the panel. Most electricians will orient the panel to allow the feeder to be shorter in the panel. It makes for a neater and more cost efficient job.
@@KitchenerLeslie2 Yep, that's what I was getting at. The feed of the lines into the panel were due to its orientation with the meter, not because the utility company's lines came from the below.
I shut off the main power to my home. Since then I noted on my circuit panel for the garage door reset is off. My garage opener is still functional. Should that circuit be in the on position. I don't remember noticing it off before. Thanks
I have question: --- I want to put in a Motion Detector Light -- I don't see anything on protecting the circuit like what one would use in an outlet circuit with a GFCI Outlet at the beginning of the circuit. Is there anything like that for a dedicated circuit just for the Motion Light that would have a Light Switch to control it ? -- Or , do you just rely on the Circuit Breaker to trip out if something were to short out or go wrong. Thank you for Sharing what you know on Electrical
Because the service panel is enclosed is it generally legal to have a wire nutted jumper to deal with a home run too short to reach the breaker. That is to say can the service panel be considered a junction box.
Hi Scott -- I enjoy your channel. I need some advice: the tech who installed my A/C years ago did not attach the common wire from the exterior unit to the common bus in the circuit breaker panel -- he just put a wire nut on the end (so the white wire is dangling uselessly inside the panel). It seems the bus does not have a terminal big enough to fit that white wire. I'm tempted to install a second common bus (with large enough terminals), tie the two buses together, and attach the white common wire. Do you see any problems with this approach?
I have a panel that looks about like this one with finished sheetrock around. I want to add a 50 amp breaker and plug to outside the structure. OK to drill thru the back of the panel towards the bottom and run circuit to outside?
Another great presentation! Some questipons, though: 1.) Is it a MUST that the breaker be the same brand as the box? 2.) If the label inside the door is badly out of date, is it OK to type up and put on an updated replacement? 3.) I assume that the inspection stickers must always stay in place. Is that correct
I have a similar breaker box. You mentioned that even when I turn the main to "off" the hots are still hot. Is there a way to turn the hots completely off? thanks
Where you are, is more than ONE neutral white wire per screw allowed. I was under the impression only one white wire per screw and up to two ground wires per screw. I always put the circuit hot wire or black wire on the left side of the screw even when under a pressure plate. Putting the wire on the left side helps pull the wire in when the screw is tightened. Can you splice wires in a power panel? Does the National Electrical Code allow splices inside the power panel? Do panel manufactures allow splices inside their power panels?
Some circuit breakers are designed to take one or two conductors on the terminal. They are marked as such. Square D Homeline is such a type. Your panel is a Square D QO (quick off). I’m DIY and have only worked in Homeline and Cutler Hammer (now Eaton) type BR panels so I don’t know about QO. Eaton BR can only take one conductor.
@@pld8993 I believe the two conductors per terminal rating on these Square D circuit breakers ONLY applies to 14-10 AWG COPPER conductors. It will be marked on the side of the circuit breakers. The use of aluminum conductors for these low amp branch circuits is probably not common practice since the Beverly Hills Supper Club Fire in 1977.
@@PedroPolsteonio Correct, 15-30 amp breakers only. Aluminum in those sizes is not allowed anymore and hasn't been allowed for many years, in most localities.
Earlier this year I went through my whole panel and verified which circuits is which and it didn't take very long cause I have a very small house 550sqft house and and wrote down what circuit is what on a piece of paper and I do plan on get a labeler to put labels on the panel door.
I found this video so helpful however i was wondering if you could make a special video of a project that a friend and i want to make using a thick extension cord installed into a junction boxed with a wall outlet on it and then next to it a little bit of thick extension cord into another junction box to install a circuit breaker into the junction box and then will put a switch plate that is fully covered up with 2 screws that you have to unscrew to reset the circuit breaker if ever tripped. I wanted to know how to wire that so we can install a 15 amp circuit breaker to a 15 amp wall outlet receptacle. Could you please make a video on that?
Though less common today, you may encounter doubled-up breakers. That is, two breakers in the space of one standard breaker, two circuits in one breaker housing. Also, for the 240V circuits you may find a different design to that shown here. You may find what looks like two standard breakers riveted together with the handles also bound. These come in doubled-up configurations as well. Not all GFCI or arc-fault breakers have the extended bodies as shown here. You know what they are by the presence of a test button.
@@jasonnehl2732 "Double up" breakers are better know as "space savers" or as Square D calls "Tandem" breakers. They are fine to use as a much better solution to double tapping (never do that) if you don't have any free spaces anymore. If you don't have a main breaker then you may have a safety switch before the panel.
@@jasonnehl2732 Tandem breakers are common and 100% legal. They are normally used to add a couple extra slots to a full panel. Each model of panel will list how many tandems it allows to be used.
@@rhoonah5849 Most panels are UL listed for use with “up to of tandem breakers.” That number is usually written in the small lettering on a sticker inside the panel enclosure. It’s generally easier to simply type your model number into a search engine and get the answer off the manufacturers site.
I am wondering if I could ask for some more information. I have a very similar Square D panel as the one you pictured in that one year old video. It is also in the same place in my garage :-) my garage is a long tandem garage that I divided and created a workshop. I need to install new outlets on the wall that I have erected. I need to know some ideas as to how to feed new home run into my electrical panel that just like yours is in sheet rock? I do have access from the attic, and all my feeds are coming from the top of my panel. Help :) as a last resort I plan on removing part of the sheet rock above my panel, but I’m hoping there are some other ways of doing it. Thank you in advance. DerekO in Boise ID
Great video. Thanks! I have one question. I have a Thomas & Betts 110 volt distribution panel in my RV. The main breaker is 30 amps, and it's the first breaker on the left, part of a two pole breaker with the other breaker being a 15 amp breaker. If I wanted to change the location of the main breaker, is it okay to change it? For example, if I had a double pole breaker with the first breaker being 15 amps, and the 30 amp main breaker being the second breaker?
Electrically it doesn't matter where on the busbar the main is. However, T&B may spec the main to be in that location. Check the panel spec sheet on their website.
I actually am hoping to settle an argument maybe you can help because watching your video it seems you are very knowledgeable in this field . I recently ran across a mobile home where the frame underneath was hot and upon investigation found that someone had a Hotwire ( black ) going to the side terminals where the bare copper or ground was along with all the other bare copper wires where I disconnected it and capped and taped it and this solved the problem but my partner says that’s not right there is normally a hot wire to the ground Buse what is your intake regarding this ?
Excellent presentation! Informative and precise! Always pick up something new! Thanks so much for this! Keep up the great work and above all...stay safe! Subbed!
Except it is wrong in many aspects, including the claim that there are two 120V lines coming in and that each side of the panel is powered by the respective 120V line. US residential is 240VAC split-phase and every other breaker on each side is from a different side of the 240V transformer. This is how a double breaker presents 240V to the load. You can be partially sighted in just one eye and still be king of the blind. Excellent? No.
I just had a 60 amp main replaced on an old Murray panel, with a 100 amp breaker. The technician stated it was a temporary fix and not guaranteed since it's not an original Murray breaker - which is no longer available. Also, the main is not bolted to the panel, which I was told is the current code requirements. Heck is wasn't bolted for the last 50 years. He's now telling me I need to install a new panel. Does this sound correct to you?
The utility goes to the meter first before the main service panel. So the location of where the utility comes in doesn't really determine where your main breaker is located. It all just depends on where everything is set up.
Great video.....can anyone tell me when it is OK to double the neutral and ground together on the bb and if/when I have to separate them ? In this video I see the N/G doubled under one screw....Currently (no pun intended) my panel has the neutral and the ground together under one screw...I am adding a few circuits and just checking if I can do the same THANKS
You can double a ground and neutral but don’t double your neutrals under one screw. You can double your grounds as long as they are they same wire size. The only time you need to separate your grounds and neutrals on separate bars is if you have a sub panel.
A "layman" question: having lived in my home for 16 years, I've been told that my electrical panel does not have a surge protector. I have briefly "googled" for the whole house surge protector and saw that prices vary pretty widely. Which one is recommended, and how do I determine the correct rating?
My home was built in 1997 and I don't know if the breakers were ever replaced. I now have spongy breakers that are beginning to pop loudly when I try to reset them. I'd like to replace all the breakers and re-identify there locations in the house. Good idea ? ? First time DIY'R.
The great info. Question? What if my main breaker doesn't do nothing (anymore). It did work. My outside meter breaker works. I have full power but that main breaker in circuit panel doesn't turn off power. Is that breaker bad or is that a big issue?
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Just a quick note on turning the main breaker off... the main breaker recently went bad in my electrical panel, and we discovered (thankfully before working on anything) that everything still had power when the main breaker was switched off. Always double check before doing work
needs to be a sticky up top!
this guy is saving lives with his youtube videos. DIY electrical work is NOT the same as the other trades. mad respect
The same can be true of DIY plumbing. It is just as likely to improperly install something as simply as a sink trap and leak sewer gases into your home.
@@rhoonah5849 Except electrical mistakes will end you.
@@CL-ty6wp And leaching sewer gases will also end you. So will improper carpentry, etc.
This guy knows just enough to be dangerous.
and you should know enough to cite examples if you think this guy (who has 3/4 of a million subscribers and 10k likes on this video alone), is wrong. How may subscribers do YOU have,@@RadioRich100 ?
There is nobody like you explaining in such detail electrical stuff. Great presentation, great video! Thank You!
agreed
I learn a lot from your videos even though I'm an extremely comfortable DIYer with electrical. Here's a safety tip that I use in my home, pertaining to the 200A main panel and 100A subpanel, because I'm always aware the main panel is always live with 200A coming in from the street (100A subpanel has a circuit breaker in the main panel): (1) no storage or debris in front of the panel and area is well lit, including a dedicated flashlight on the side of the panel, so it can easily and safely be accessed; (2) thick 1" safety mat in front of the panel; (3) use insulating safety gloves (e.g., Gorilla gloves); and (4) use insulated electrical tools (e.g., Klein or Knipex). Even with all these safety steps, just as you demonstrated in your video, I did slip when replacing the panel door, which fell into the main panel and turned off the main breaker of the 200A panel (first time it happen in all my years, so I'm thankful for stressing safety).
Good tips Ed, thanks for sharing.
This was a great video for a complete n00b. Thanks for all the info!
You bet!
The cold sweats I was getting every time he was pointing to anything close to the main input, I wish there was a way to just turn off the power at the meter without having to call the power company then I would be super chill about working on a panel.
There is. You can pull the meter out to disconnect power to the house. Inside the meter box is a handle to detach it. Just make sure your main is off first so you don't get sparks as you do it.
@@SongOfStorms411 in many areas no one except the utility is to touch the meter can. Not even an electrician. If you tamper with it you risk getting fined - it's a big no-no. There are even locks on it sometimes
I'm sure it was perspective... if you see how he moves his hand over the main breaker he never pulls it away, so when he is pointing to the mains he is probably still a good 3 inches away...
You are not allowed to tamper with an electric meter at all no matter where you live. All meters have some type of lock or anti-tamper device on them and as soon as they're removed you can be fined or even lose your service. If you're lucky the electric company will just put a padlock on your meter base but they could also disconnect it at the service drop. Also not only is it illegal to tamper with a meter, it's very dangerous because those top connectors are still live with no protection at all. Those are the last thing you want to be shocked by, trust me.
@@mr.g937 Of course.
So far the ONLY DIY content creator who seems to really know what he's doing. Learning a lot with these videos.
Thanks for the feedback!
Are you serious?? You truly havent seen the ball since kick off.
You're so right about labeling being off. I did some work in my dining room where I took down a non-load bearing wall and installed some wainscoting. The wall had some electrical run through it for a switch so I needed to rewire that and since I was taking the outlet covers off anyway, I figured I would replace the older outlets and switches. Anyway, I had a breaker labeled "dining room" and shut that off. Now my lights didn't have power so I was able to safely rerun the switch to a J-box, etc. Then I checked the outlet on the wall 1, expecting it to be off. Nope, I had power. I ran downstairs and found it on a different breaker. Strange. I then checked the outlet on wall 2, again, expecting it to be off. Nope... power so I shut that breaker off. Rinse and repeat for walls 3 and 4. So I basically have 5 different circuits powering my dining room (one for the lights and then 4 for each outlet on the 4 walls). None of the other breakers were labeled to control part of the dining room. Crazy. Moral of the story... check EVERY receptacle that you will be working on and never assume that the power is off to it.
I'm a handyman with over 40 years of experience in everything from automobiles to toilets (jack of all trades; master of none!).
1) A client had problems with her kitchen, in that several outlets would go out at the same time. Although not a DIY-er, she is very capable, so, I told her to check the circuit breaker box, look for the one that was tripped, which took a bit of explanation over the phone, as she didn't know what that meant! She said that none appeared to be tripped. I, then, told her to look for the big label on the box door and/or little labels next to each breaker (I had never seen her circuit breaker box, so I gave her as much info as possible). Then, came the bomb: There were NO labels whatsoever! An hour later, I came by, and, sure enough, she was correct! I couldn't believe it! It took the two of us nearly 3 hours to identify all the outlets, in which I applied a new door label and individual labels; just a couple of weeks after that, I was convinced that it wasn't 100% correct! Regardless, the box didn't turn out to be the problem. Her 15-year-old GFCIs were shot (4 of them were in series, such that if even one was out, the next one(s) down the line wouldn't work, either. So, I replaced all of them (generally speaking, they should be tested every month and replaced every 10 years or so, depending on usage, but, hardly anyone ever does that, myself included!). Major point: NEVER trust circuit box labels! ALWAYS check voltage on the outlet or wiring you're working on!
2) Another client had a peculiar problem where her front yard and/or backyard porch outlets would stop working, but, the circuit box never tripped! After about a half-hour of investigation, I discovered that each of those outlets was in series with a corresponding GFCI in the garage! As they were just over 10 years old, I replaced the two GFCIs, and, voila, no more troubles! Whoever installed them in the 10+ year old home, had stripped too much insulation off the GFCI wires, such that just the right amount of wiggling/shaking - - such as hard pushing/pulling an electric cord or tap into the porch sockets - - would short them! I, then, put labels on the porch sockets and the garage sockets to ensure that future problems would be more easily solved!
What about 220 appliances? Any vids for that? You taught me well in this one, but I was waiting for that 220 or 240 explanation. It's so confusing.
When I bought my current house, while it was empty, I made a map of every outlet and light, to show which breaker it was connected to. I am SO GLAD I did that! Thanks for the great info. I hope that panel was not live, as close as you were getting your fingers to everything.
I can definitely agree on how a breaker location listing can be misleading. With the house I recently purchased I have found one breaker is listed as Hannah's Room.
I bought one of those breaker locator units and have been going room by room and creating a spreadsheet in the computer which will eventually be printed out and taped to the panel so I will know every floor, room, and device what breaker it's controlled by. Bedrooms will be named geographically, not who sleeps there.
Hannah's gonne be pissssssssed
Poor hannah. Catching heat in a YT comment section
@@killtyrant 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Haha... that is a great point. Everyone will be screwed when Hannah moves out.
i love how basic you get, we need that. build from the ground up. talk to us like we are twelve years old. basics, then build. i love this channel. keep them coming!!!!!
I'll probably never deal with this kind of work (still too timid to change an outlet lol!) But I enjoy the education as it makes me feel like a more knowledgeable home owner!
Just had to diagnose a bad breaker. You're video(s) are always the best to watch to for understanding problems like this. Thanks so much.
Thanks to this video I gained the confidence of installing a 15amp breaker and ran the wire to the panel. Thank you!!
I liked this-I have three comments. 1) I always turn the main breaker off BEFORE removing the panel 2) I would have liked you explaining the simple/standard breaker hookup with one black wire BEFORE discussing the AFCI and GFCI that has the addition of the white wire and 3) explaining why and how the AFCI, Arc-fault circuit interrupter, and GFCI, Ground-fault circuit interrupter, work. If you DID do these, I missed them or misunderstood. Good job!
His video is replete with bad information. How is that a "good job"?
@@DiffEQ Your comment without facts is useless.
I'm so paranoid that I go outside and switch off power to the entire house at the meter before opening the breaker panel.
Says the guy who can't even supply examples.@@DiffEQ
Your video is very instructional, yet for a nonelectrical person like myself it is a bit intimidating. I still find it very interesting at least to know. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback and I completely agree you need to be competent and know your local code prior to jumping into DIY electrical projects. Alternatively being educated on some of these topics also helps you to hire and work with a professional 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes, I agree with that. At least I can communicate with the electricians when they come and do work. Thanks
I'm going to be installing a generator interlock soon, and will need to move a couple circuit breakers, so this comes in very handy. Thanks!
It's a little weird, but the hot bus bars actually "zigzag" across the board, so the left and right incoming phases actually power alternating breaker slots on both sides of the panel. That's how the 240v breakers are able to grab both 120v phases from the same side of the panel. It took me embarrassingly long to figure that out though. One of those things I always just assumed without giving it due thought.
Good callout Marc 👍
I stopped the video as soon as he explained that the two hots are left and right and was about to write the same comment. As Marc said they actually do a sort of zig zag so every other notch on each side is the opposite 120v feed (or phase is actually the term) thus allowing 240v breakers to have one feed from each 120v feed.
Yup, just came here to say the very same thing.
Agree. I was about to comment until I saw yours.
I also noticed.. they zigzag, that's why you can get 220 and have the breakers on same side..
This was an excellent explanation. You are thorough and explained the 'why' which is important. I love how you talk slowly and simply. Thank-you.
at 12:24 where you are saying the left side wire powers the breakers on the left and the right side powers the breakers on the right. I don't think that is the case as, for example, the breakers on the left are "every other one" on the left...the breakers on one side or the other alternate between the left and right input power, that is how you get 220 using a double breaker on the same side be it the right or the left.
5:40 ** and yes that’s correct, they alternate. That’s how the double pole 240 breakers are able to deliver 240
Appreciate the correction 👍
So many comments on this, but I do think that he meant to speak of the left and right bus bars. Funny thing on my 2 year old Siemens panel - it is actually opposite as the main breaker swaps the left and right phases. I found this out when I was trying to balance the loads on my panel for whenever my generator is supplying power. I was measuring the current on the 2 incoming phases and the changes kept being opposite of what I expected based on what was running. I was surprised that Siemens would do this given how some many inspectors always want black feeds on the left and red on the right in the meter socket, main panel, and any subpanels.
Well done bro! Explaining was easy for you like your a teacher ! Step step you had my attention ~ so I have also learned that all breakers are not the same , I went to Loew and got what I thought was my breaks 2 pole 50/50 -60//60 and it was $18 for one I neede 2 it was the wrong one and I had to go back ( I didn’t open the panel , this wanted to do more research and pow! Your video of this information was perfect so inane t back , replace , found the right one it turns out one breaker was $35 bucks / so I’m waiting on tomorrow to turn off all my breaker / mark the ones I’m moving and get to it
Thanks again
You give the best and easiest explanation on you videos.Thank you for taking the time.
The best instructional/educational video for electrical on RUclips! Well done!
Thank you so much! Diyer here, going to replace that switch!
Thanks for adding the info on the internal workings of the breaker
Thank you for the very good information. I'm trying to setup a generator to my home for blackout situations. I know my limitations and will hire an electrician but I do like knowing what the electrician is talking about.
Exactly! Having some familiarity with electrical will help a ton even when working with pros 👍
11:20 If you ever run into that situation where there are two wires under the screw of one breaker. Just remove both wires, find a like or greater sized pig tail. And wire nut the 3 wires together. Use the pig tail to attach to the breaker. This is allowed in the code book.
Doubling, or even tripling, wires under a signal screw is against code.
Please provide the location in the national code. I've looked and from I see the code that was in place in 2014 is still in place today which is that if a breaker is so labeled, two wires(legs of the same circuit) can be terminated under the same breaker screw terminal.
@@davids7209 I ain’t gonna lie, I’m going off of 2008 code. Which is what I was trained on in 2010. Haven’t been in the field per se. I’m an electrician building submarines, whole different ball field.
@@robertsteich7362 Is everything explosion proof in a sub? I would also add that residential code is a lot different than commercial or industrial.
@@davids7209 That’s something I can’t not speak(type) on.
Thanks for the video , removing my Jacuzzi tub and putting in a shower and was wondering how to terminate the jacuzzi power now I have a much better understanding of what to do . Thanks
Love this content. It really helps me to understand better. Because I want to build up my experience where I don't fear this and can do some of the work myself.
Love the channel, excellent advise, but I would add, always turn the main breaker off first, before removing cover and then test with a meter
Always wear gloves, as an extra insulating safety precaution
NEVER put both hands in the panel, this can lead to electric shock.
Outstanding the way you explain things. I have a question. When you install an interlock and you add the breaker that you flip on as you flip off the main. How is it that one breaker can back feed and power up the entire panel.
I'm not interested in working on the breaker box myself, but I DO want to understand what I'm looking at, and understand what the electrician is talking about when I get the run down of what he's done. This is the tutorial I was looking for.
A couple tips I use are
1. I have a cell phone pic on the door showing the normal configuration for the box to compare everyday operations to some future issue that might come up ... say an electrician leaves but he failed to reset the main. If I didn't know what the main was supposed to look like, I'd have to call him back to flip a switch, which might not be until the next day. But .. why?
2. I affixed a button LED light to the box for power outage. A tap and I can see which breaker is the problem in what would otherwise be total darkness of the basement.
3. I wouldn't expect anyone else to do this but I printed out a rough layout of the house, and color coded breakers for the area. Mine outlines which breaker controls which outlet, ceiling light and appliance, something I did with the former landlord with meter test by test. But that's a little too Karen for most people. It was helpful for us because it told us at a glance which circuits were already maxed out, and which could still be tapped for what we wanted to do (install a closet security system and router). Later the electrician was ecstatic because he only had to test after the breaker like he usually does, only with more confidence about what else was lurking on the line. Later, the landlord and I did all the floors of the property and garage that way, with outdoor security lighting/generator outlets, and pool heater, and I put them in a 'Landlord Book' for when he decided to sell the property. (And then he sold the property and evicted me, but that's another story.) :D
They do make protective covers that go over the incoming power lugs. Two in a set for about $15 (when I bought them) from Home Depot online. Have not installed yet as I am waiting until the next time I remove the cover. Enjoyed the video.
Great idea! I'm going to order a set.
Link?
great information. answered most of the questions I have but unable to find answer to.
Got my Zinsco 😬 panel replaced last year. It appeared to work fine, but it was highly suggested it be replaced. It had to be relocated out of my bedroom closet. So I decided to have it installed to the back of the house. I have SO many open slots available now in the new panel.
Same with me! My old panel was jampacked and my new one has lots of space
@@matthewp1682 As a matter of fact, it was two years to the day.
@@SeanBaker Interesting, I got mine done right after I bought my house in May 2021. I was told it was from the 1950’s and that it needed replacing, and I figured better safe than sorry
You're doing the LORDS work. Great education. Clarity, easy going, distinct, understandable, and any other adjectives one can think of.
Thanks Otto!
Thanks for your time. These videos are always very well done and informative.
Thanks Joe!
I moved into a house that the electric panel was not labeled. I have labeled all but 4 breakers. I can not find out what they power. I have left them off. How can I find out what they power? I can't find a video on this at all. I see videos on how to find a breaker but I have no idea what they power.
Excellent, excellent, excellent. If you EVER do a video on installing a sub-panel, I would think that would fill a real need. Every sub-panel video on youtube that I have seen, and I have seen many, many of them (as I am getting ready to install a sub-panel in my place) has serious holes and even deficiencies, or places where they are vague. I am reading tons of different stuff as well. A good, solid, complete video on installing a sub-panel would be so fantastic; as what youtube presently has is seriously lacking insofar as I have been able to tell. But you, sir, are the KING of clarity. Please, f you can, consider making a video on installing a sub-panel.
It should be noted that no matter what power can NOT be shut off to the main breaker at all unless your house has a separate main breaker from the box which is usually outside near the meter base, however in most cases those are locked to prevent tampering with especially if the power was shut off to the property. Then messing with a meter or removing anti-tampering devices or locks is not only illegal, it's very dangerous due to two lugs still be live from the service drop.
Hey Ben, agree and noted that around 6:00 mark in the video 👍
In a lot of jurisdictions if you have a main on the outside of the property (meter main) legally the utility company has NO control over the main breaker in the encloser. Thier authority ends at the output of the meter socket. They will try to lock your main but that is because they are lazy buggers and do not want to actually pull the meter to sleeve it. Tell them to stay out of the main IMO. They are more than willing to make other trades life a pain in the butt just trying to pass it on :P. also if they lock the main they may actually be violating NEC code depending on what version of the code your area has adopted
Can wait for the video on adding a breaker! - I hope to learn more than other videos. I feel like others leave so much info out.
benjamin sahlstrom has some of the best demo videos for electrical on youtube.
Here's a link to Ben's video
ruclips.net/video/zpIIYWhCFgo/видео.html
Yeah I have seen some of Ben's videos and agree he does a great job with the channel.
this is a very well explained basics in the electrical panel at home. thank you very much for the simple explanation.
Thanks!
Thanks for the support!
First of all, I am a big QO fan..only panel I put in...Great videos and the way you describe stuff
Awesome quick, but vital, information overview! Much appreciated tutorial!
You are very good teacher, perfect pace and great detail. thanks for this video!!
Super helpful, thank you! Question: My garage (detached) is on a single 20 amp breaker off the main house / main breaker. The garage then has its own smaller breaker panel and a "Main" double 30 amp breaker. This is an old house, a lot of janxy things to discover. When I pop a breaker in the garage, it isn't popping a breaker in the garage panel, but instead popping the breaker at the house (20 Amp single). It seems to me it's because the double 30 amp "main" at the garage is obviously higher than the 20 at the house, so the house pops first. Also, the 20 at the house is just a single. I'm wondering if that should be a double 30, then go down to 20 at the garage, then 15 for individual things like outlets, lights, etc. Feedback from the pros appreciated! I'm handy, but if this is a job for a pro, that would be good to hear as well. Cheers!
You did a good job explaining what's inside your load center. Working on or around energized equipment is definitely not for a DYI'er. Different levels of PPE's are required for different voltages and it's probably over kill from a safety standpoint but qualified electricians in my state are required to go full rambo. The PPE required is super uncomfortable and HOT. But .. you better not let OSHA catch you because they will fine you for not having the full arc flash suit on if your in any kind of panel.
@One I totally understand your position on this. I have been retired for about 10 years now but the PPE requirements were just coming into law back then and were being enforced in the state of California. Just like the title 24 stuff and the required safety training. I know it's totally ridiculous but it is what it is. Bottom line if you work for a company that requires it you either go by their rules or find another employer that doesn't require it.
I have to upgrade my condo breaker box is a Fedral pacific electric come 200 Amp which breaker box do you suggest?!
I suggest you consult an elactrician that knows what he is talking about. This guy is an unqualified hack who ONLY THINKS he knows what he's talking about!!! Talking to a tradesman COULD PREVENT YOUR HOME FROM BURNING DOWN!!! Is it worth it???
Great video, thank you soo much! I really appreciate your straightforward and honest tutorial, it's very helpful.
Happy to help!
there is alot of red tagging on this panel in my state the the main one that is urking me though is the the homeruns in that single 2inch causing bundling , one niched wire causing arcing can cause that whole mess to catch on fire before the breakers decide to trip and cut the power off
The feeder for the neutral wire going in to the sub should be phased with white tape
How do you know if it’s a neutral or a ground?
@@MoneyManHolmes neutral or ground it should have been phases with either white or green tape
Excellent explanation, thank you. I have a 15 amp GFCI for my outside outlets that is always, always tripping...for a start, I don't know why my electrician only wired them for 15, to me they should be 20 amp, so I can use my chop saw etc. without it tripping. Annoying indeed.
Note that even with the main breaker being switched off, working in the load center is still dangerous. The lugs on the incoming side of this breaker are still hot and deadly. That being said, there people with enough experience to work with the main breaker still on!
Depending on what I'm doing, I work a panel hot most times. The key is to purchase the breaker ahead of time, remove the wire from the old breaker, remove the breaker to be replaced, screw the circuit hot wire back into the new breaker BEFORE seating the new breaker into the vacant slot then turn it on. I think this whole process typically takes me 2 to 3 minutes tops.
Now, why in the world do they leave those hot wires completely non-insulated and exposed for someone to accidentally touch and get killed?
🤗 THANKS SCOTT 👍 GOOD INFORMATION ….WE ALWAYS NEED TO BE SAFE 😳 and pay attention 😍😍😍
💯
My friend, you are a talented 'Master of all trades." You can walk into a house and do whatever there is to be done to perfection, on top of that you have the time to teach other ignorant guys like me the basics. I enjoy watching your videos immensely . Thank you very much. .
(on your last point in the video you talk about the cover of the panel) If you had an open breaker cover tab on the panel cover that would cover an empty breaker couldn't you just put a breaker in without attaching any wires, but leave it in the off position? For example if I had a GE panel and was using 1/2 breakers but I only had one breaker installed in that slot couldn't I just put another (space holding) breaker next to it so that it fills the cover slot? but don't attach wires to it and leave it in off position)
Hello and thank you for a great presentation. I have a 15 AMP circuit breaker that trips when I plug a vacuum cleaner in my living room. I am sure based on your video that by plugging the vacuum cleaner it exceeds the 15 AMP limit. Is it safe to replace the 15 AMP with a 20 AMP? Thank you for your help.
The breaker protects the wire in your living room. 14AWG is rated at 15 Amps. 12AWG - 20Amp.
No. And why would you assume this guy, who presents incorrect electrical information all the time, is the person to ask? You really think people who create RUclips content know anything? He doesn't even know the NEC prohibits double-lugging everywhere in the US. Neither does he know that the 240VAC coming in (not "two 120 volt lines") are INTERLEAVED in the panel and they do not supply the left and right, respectively. UGH. We are doomed.
Your vacuum does not draw more than 15 amps. Depending what else is on the circuit, the aggregate current is tripping the breaker. If this happens often, then the breaker is likely weak (they are not switch rated and are not intended to be constantly tripped) and tripping sooner than a new one would. Nevertheless, the wire is only rated for 15A so you cannot protect it with a 20A breaker. Find out what else is on that circuit that you plug your vacuum into and turn it off while you vacuum. If that's not the issue... replace the breaker. We know it's not your vacuum because it only happens on the living room circuit.
I know it’s been a while since you posted this video. But I do have a question. Say I have space to add a lot of circuits, is there a cap of amps I’d be able to add? If so, how do I calculate it?
I’m wanting to add a 50 amp and 20 amp circuit to my garage.
how do i know if the breaker needs to be replaced ? i feel safe i can do this if i need to. great info. as always.
If that circuit keeps "tripping" for no apparent reason, that would be a good indication. Breakers usually work until they don't. I know that sounds stupid but when a breaker goes bad it will generally trip and not reset.
Thank for the information that led to me doing something I'm not qualified to do, but still resulted in me getting my own water pump back on since my landlord won't send anyone
Thank you! Very concise and easy to follow.
Great video! Just wondering where the ground wire is connected and coming out of the box going to to the outside grounding rod?
The underground lines come up from the bottom to the meter, but the lines that come from the meter through the wall to the panel are coming horizontally, allowing the master breaker to be on top or bottom, depending on how high the meter is in relation to how high the panel is on the inside. If the ground is low on the outside of the house where the meter is, I could see it being low enough to read, making it low compared to the panel inside the house, hence the bottom master.
Yeah, this guy talks out of his anus.
His power comes in from the bottom because his panel is back to back with the meter. The panel feeder comes out of the bottom of the rear of the meter pan. If his panel was in the basement the power would come in the top of the panel. Most electricians will orient the panel to allow the feeder to be shorter in the panel. It makes for a neater and more cost efficient job.
@@KitchenerLeslie2 Yep, that's what I was getting at. The feed of the lines into the panel were due to its orientation with the meter, not because the utility company's lines came from the below.
I shut off the main power to my home. Since then I noted on my circuit panel for the garage door reset is off. My garage opener is still functional. Should that circuit be in the on position. I don't remember noticing it off before. Thanks
I have question: --- I want to put in a Motion Detector Light -- I don't see anything on protecting the circuit like what one would use in an outlet circuit with a GFCI Outlet at the beginning of the circuit. Is there anything like that for a dedicated circuit just for the Motion Light that would have a Light Switch to control it ? -- Or , do you just rely on the Circuit Breaker to trip out if something were to short out or go wrong.
Thank you for Sharing what you know on Electrical
Because the service panel is enclosed is it generally legal to have a wire nutted jumper to deal with a home run too short to reach the breaker. That is to say can the service panel be considered a junction box.
Great demonstration, thanks! 👍👍. My breakers are Cutler-Hammer. I live in the South East.
Hi Scott -- I enjoy your channel. I need some advice: the tech who installed my A/C years ago did not attach the common wire from the exterior unit to the common bus in the circuit breaker panel -- he just put a wire nut on the end (so the white wire is dangling uselessly inside the panel). It seems the bus does not have a terminal big enough to fit that white wire. I'm tempted to install a second common bus (with large enough terminals), tie the two buses together, and attach the white common wire. Do you see any problems with this approach?
Great explanations of the panel and potential violations buddy.
You bet!
Why dose the gfi neutral have to go back to the breaker instead of the neutral bar?
I have a panel that looks about like this one with finished sheetrock around. I want to add a 50 amp breaker and plug to outside the structure. OK to drill thru the back of the panel towards the bottom and run circuit to outside?
Another great presentation! Some questipons, though:
1.) Is it a MUST that the breaker be the same brand as the box?
2.) If the label inside the door is badly out of date, is it OK to type up and put on an updated replacement?
3.) I assume that the inspection stickers must always stay in place. Is that correct
The answer is when code silent are the manufacturer's specifications. Insurance answer.
Mixing different manufacturer breaker voids UL and warranty
i learnred more about electrical from this video than electrician videos lol
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I have a similar breaker box. You mentioned that even when I turn the main to "off" the hots are still hot. Is there a way to turn the hots completely off? thanks
Where you are, is more than ONE neutral white wire per screw allowed. I was under the impression only one white wire per screw and up to two ground wires per screw. I always put the circuit hot wire or black wire on the left side of the screw even when under a pressure plate. Putting the wire on the left side helps pull the wire in when the screw is tightened. Can you splice wires in a power panel? Does the National Electrical Code allow splices inside the power panel? Do panel manufactures allow splices inside their power panels?
Top notch video. This is the RUclips I love. Thanks for putting it together.
Can you use connectors in a panel
Some circuit breakers are designed to take one or two conductors on the terminal. They are marked as such. Square D Homeline is such a type. Your panel is a Square D QO (quick off). I’m DIY and have only worked in Homeline and Cutler Hammer (now Eaton) type BR panels so I don’t know about QO. Eaton BR can only take one conductor.
15/20/25/30A QO breakers are rated fro two conductors.
@@pld8993 I believe the two conductors per terminal rating on these Square D circuit breakers ONLY applies to 14-10 AWG COPPER conductors. It will be marked on the side of the circuit breakers. The use of aluminum conductors for these low amp branch circuits is probably not common practice since the Beverly Hills Supper Club Fire in 1977.
@@PedroPolsteonio Correct, 15-30 amp breakers only. Aluminum in those sizes is not allowed anymore and hasn't been allowed for many years, in most localities.
Earlier this year I went through my whole panel and verified which circuits is which and it didn't take very long cause I have a very small house 550sqft house and and wrote down what circuit is what on a piece of paper and I do plan on get a labeler to put labels on the panel door.
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Where do the black wire and bare wire of the added circuit connected? I understand the white connects to the GFCI
I found this video so helpful however i was wondering if you could make a special video of a project that a friend and i want to make using a thick extension cord installed into a junction boxed with a wall outlet on it and then next to it a little bit of thick extension cord into another junction box to install a circuit breaker into the junction box and then will put a switch plate that is fully covered up with 2 screws that you have to unscrew to reset the circuit breaker if ever tripped. I wanted to know how to wire that so we can install a 15 amp circuit breaker to a 15 amp wall outlet receptacle. Could you please make a video on that?
Though less common today, you may encounter doubled-up breakers. That is, two breakers in the space of one standard breaker, two circuits in one breaker housing.
Also, for the 240V circuits you may find a different design to that shown here. You may find what looks like two standard breakers riveted together with the handles also bound. These come in doubled-up configurations as well.
Not all GFCI or arc-fault breakers have the extended bodies as shown here. You know what they are by the presence of a test button.
Is a double up breaker good or bad? And I don't have a main breaker.
@@jasonnehl2732 "Double up" breakers are better know as "space savers" or as Square D calls "Tandem" breakers. They are fine to use as a much better solution to double tapping (never do that) if you don't have any free spaces anymore. If you don't have a main breaker then you may have a safety switch before the panel.
@@jasonnehl2732
Tandem breakers are common and 100% legal. They are normally used to add a couple extra slots to a full panel.
Each model of panel will list how many tandems it allows to be used.
@@nickbruesch399 Doesn't your panel need to be rated for tandem breakers?
@@rhoonah5849
Most panels are UL listed for use with “up to of tandem breakers.”
That number is usually written in the small lettering on a sticker inside the panel enclosure. It’s generally easier to simply type your model number into a search engine and get the answer off the manufacturers site.
I am wondering if I could ask for some more information. I have a very similar Square D panel as the one you pictured in that one year old video. It is also in the same place in my garage :-) my garage is a long tandem garage that I divided and created a workshop. I need to install new outlets on the wall that I have erected. I need to know some ideas as to how to feed new home run into my electrical panel that just like yours is in sheet rock? I do have access from the attic, and all my feeds are coming from the top of my panel. Help :) as a last resort I plan on removing part of the sheet rock above my panel, but I’m hoping there are some other ways of doing it. Thank you in advance.
DerekO in Boise ID
Great video. Thanks! I have one question. I have a Thomas & Betts 110 volt distribution panel in my RV. The main breaker is 30 amps, and it's the first breaker on the left, part of a two pole breaker with the other breaker being a 15 amp breaker. If I wanted to change the location of the main breaker, is it okay to change it? For example, if I had a double pole breaker with the first breaker being 15 amps, and the 30 amp main breaker being the second breaker?
Electrically it doesn't matter where on the busbar the main is. However, T&B may spec the main to be in that location. Check the panel spec sheet on their website.
I would be interested in seeing how you labeled the breakers with multiple items listed. I need to relabel mine.
I actually am hoping to settle an argument maybe you can help because watching your video it seems you are very knowledgeable in this field . I recently ran across a mobile home where the frame underneath was hot and upon investigation found that someone had a Hotwire ( black ) going to the side terminals where the bare copper or ground was along with all the other bare copper wires where I disconnected it and capped and taped it and this solved the problem but my partner says that’s not right there is normally a hot wire to the ground Buse what is your intake regarding this ?
Are you aloud to connect the white wire with the ground wire for a 30 amp breaker. Thanks
Excellent presentation! Informative and precise! Always pick up something new! Thanks so much for this! Keep up the great work and above all...stay safe! Subbed!
Except it is wrong in many aspects, including the claim that there are two 120V lines coming in and that each side of the panel is powered by the respective 120V line. US residential is 240VAC split-phase and every other breaker on each side is from a different side of the 240V transformer. This is how a double breaker presents 240V to the load.
You can be partially sighted in just one eye and still be king of the blind. Excellent? No.
I just had a 60 amp main replaced on an old Murray panel, with a 100 amp breaker. The technician stated it was a temporary fix and not guaranteed since it's not an original Murray breaker - which is no longer available. Also, the main is not bolted to the panel, which I was told is the current code requirements. Heck is wasn't bolted for the last 50 years. He's now telling me I need to install a new panel. Does this sound correct to you?
Get a new panel not worth the possible safety hazards involved in future years.
The utility goes to the meter first before the main service panel. So the location of where the utility comes in doesn't really determine where your main breaker is located. It all just depends on where everything is set up.
Great video.....can anyone tell me when it is OK to double the neutral and ground together on the bb and if/when I have to separate them ? In this video I see the N/G doubled under one screw....Currently (no pun intended) my panel has the neutral and the ground together under one screw...I am adding a few circuits and just checking if I can do the same THANKS
You can double a ground and neutral but don’t double your neutrals under one screw. You can double your grounds as long as they are they same wire size. The only time you need to separate your grounds and neutrals on separate bars is if you have a sub panel.
A "layman" question: having lived in my home for 16 years, I've been told that my electrical panel does not have a surge protector. I have briefly "googled" for the whole house surge protector and saw that prices vary pretty widely. Which one is recommended, and how do I determine the correct rating?
My home was built in 1997 and I don't know if the breakers were ever replaced. I now have spongy breakers that are beginning to pop loudly when I try to reset them. I'd like to replace all the breakers and re-identify there locations in the house. Good idea ? ? First time DIY'R.
Hire an electrician
You do a very good job of explaining! Thank you!
The great info. Question? What if my main breaker doesn't do nothing (anymore). It did work. My outside meter breaker works. I have full power but that main breaker in circuit panel doesn't turn off power. Is that breaker bad or is that a big issue?
Yes that is definitely a big issue.
If there is an open knockout could one put in a breaker that is not connected to a hot wire instead of a knockout cover and just leave it as a spare?
Yep. I often do this in my installs, making sure I label the breaker itself as a spare.
Or you could spend about 89 cents for a blank that snaps into the cover......