Straight forward, uncomplicated thorough explanations. Thank-you. I have an older home I just purchased. Electrical is a mess. 40 space panel box. Tons of junction boxes under house in crawl space. Can't seem to get an electrician to come out. Each video of yours I watch, I become far more confident. I've done some simple wiring before and I do have common sense so I've been successful. I have 7 very old and broken baseboard heaters that I want out. I don't want to remove them and cap off the wires. I would prefer to remove them (220) from panel altogether. You've taken away the mystery of the service panel for me! Thank-you again.
@@michaeldunham3385 Yeah, this is an excellent video for someone who has no experience in panels. Would allow to you perform the job from start to finish.
Thank you for the trick about extending the wires. I have to do exactly that and move a couple breakers to the bottom for an interlock kit that I want to install. Keep up the great work.
Generator. I have a 2500 W inverter generator that I use now that powers most things like a couple refrigerators, lights and Internet using extension cords. I want to add a soft start to the AC and get a NG generator that will handle the AC in the summer. I have to do the calculations, but will probably add a 30 amp outlet outside to connect to the panel. I’m guessing I could Dogbone the smaller generator to the 30 amp and only turn on the breakers needed. Then I can use the larger generator when needed on the 30amp. BTW, I bought the pack of WAGO connectors and I’ve used them a couple times. Love them. I hate wire nuts.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Also thought about adding a GenerLink (~$1k), but thought the cost would be too much compared to the interlock kit and adding an outside outlet. Although the cost of 6/3 wire, that’s pretty pricey. If the GenerLink fails outside the warranty period, then I’m out the $1k.
@@jerrybell6786 ...HINT : I had the same problem....adding a double-pole breaker for an interlock kit ( in my case, the line power and main-breaker were on top, and I needed space at upper/right positions, 2 and 4). To cope with the "too-short" wire problem you discuss at 4:50...where you show the WAGO connectors to lengthen the wire.....I simply moved the entire array of remaining breakers down 2 more positions....to open up the needed top-2 positions I needed. My point?---> each breaker has enough "slack" to allow re-positioning 2 more slots down, each....without having to add extra wire length. Of course, 1.), I need to have 2 open positions below the entire array, for this to work, and 2.) the label-index written on your door needs to be updated.
You were so in the money when you said the G. E. breaker brand usually goes bad. I wanted to see which breaker was being used for my circuit, I found it and turn it off so I could add another outlet. Bad mistake tuning it off, now none of my five outlets work. I turn the breaker back on and nothing happened, all my outlets were wired correctly. I tested the breaker, and sure enough, it was bad but not tripped. A new breaker from Home Depot solved my problem. Thank you for posting your videos. They are very helpful.
So glad I came across your video. I am doing exactly what you are doing, with the exact same panel, as my main is on the bottom. I have to move the upper left circuit breaker to the lower left to install the interlock kit for the generator. Thank you for your detailed explanation as I was wondering how to do that.
Make sure the bare conductor is fully inserted behind the screw plate on the breaker connector (you should see a little bit exposed through the other side of the plate - as you did) and ensure you properly torque the screws (applies to the neutral and ground bars as well). I picked up a box of those Wago butt connectors for just such use, as well as receptacle side extensions in case they are short. They are very handy for this.
WOW, you work fast, like "The Flash" Thank you for posting this video. I've done that more than I care too. I am competent but not comfortable, but being forced into austerity, by poverty is what I must do. I'll visit your Amazon again. I purchased Wago from your Amazon before but they didn't have butt splice. I am redoing every wire nut I happen across with Wago because it's just so much better, than twisting and straining the wires. Especially in this house. I have to be careful because the Romex Jacket on my wires has asbestos, so I don't want to be splicing wires and pulling back the jacket on Romex, creating dust. I really like Joel and Electro Pro Academy. He's the best in my book.
I should add that wiring is probably your last concern when it comes to asbestos. The ducting in your attic or the joint compound in drywall in homes prior to 1973 have high risk of asbestos. My home was build in 1973 and the ducts in my attic have a silvery coating on them, and are wrapped in fiberglass insulation. If left alone they don't pose a danger, but if you crack that coating on the duct, it will get fibers into the air. A guy i know in the duct cleaning business explained to me that you can coat those ducts with spray adhesive to prevent this issue and that this is commonly done when removing the ducts to prevent exposure.
I was told by the real estate agent that I have fiberglass, and that it is not asbestos nor vermiculite. I asked him specifically. Though all indications I have, is the agent, David Rumpf, is crooked. He surely scammed me.@@LBCAndrew
Actually I moved a breaker from top to the bottom and the wire was short so I extended that wire with a wago connector. But I was wondering if doing that was okay and now after watching this video I'm so much relieved that my action was okay.
Did the same thing for my generator, used wite nuts for 2 of the breakers and wagos for my 15A tandem breakers i relocated to the very bottom to be on the got leg of my panel since my generator is 120V and only powers 1 leg. I was able to add living room and bathroom lights to the powered 1/2 by moving my 2 breakers
There's a good topic here of unusual things non-electricians rarely realize which gets them into trouble when it applies. One of the breakers moved to a different phase. There are older houses with non-obvious multiwire branch circuits and if phases are improperly switched there's a double loaded neutral, i.e. fire hazard. Do not trust red and black wire colors. Keep breakers on the same phase or do absolute validation that it is safe to change.
@@Kevin-mp5of Yes, you are right. Usually it will be obvious. Still, not too long ago I was looking at Square D panel with some breakers to knob and tube runs. Obviously no red wires there. Weird unusual stuff is out there, too, just less often. Want to be safe for even those cases.
@@Kevin-mp5of I understand common trip became a requirement in the '78 revision, but I don't see it well adopted until houses from the 90s era. Seen many (still a minority though) panel post installation updates not keep the common trip, unfortunately.
Square D ( Schneider Electric) also makes a plug on neutral style box. Those are different design breakers that eliminate the need for an extra neutral for AFCI and GFCI breakers.
Great explanation. 1:30 It is very smart of you, to point that they are still hot wire live even if the main breaker is close. The tree main wire coming from outside should be cover to protect electrician. There is no reason for company not to do that, except money. I f you ever want to inspect if they are well connected you could remove the ''cover'' Is not all DIY who now that. People might say, if they don't know (DIY) there should not be working inside the panel, well some DIY think that everything is safe because they been told to shut the main breaker. I remember telling somebody who was installing a breaker to watch out, and he freak out because dint realize that.
@mastopage3120 They may not have had those lug covers when this was installed, nor was it required. I think Square D was the first (there yellow rubber/vinyl with their logo molded in) .
HINT : I had the same problem....adding a double-pole breaker for an interlock kit ( in my case, the line power and main-breaker were on top, and I needed space at upper/right positions, 2 and 4). To cope with the "too-short" wire problem you discuss at 4:50...where you show the WAGO connectors to lengthen the wire.....I simply moved the entire array of remaining breakers down 2 more positions....to open up the needed top-2 positions I needed. My point?---> each breaker has enough "slack" to allow re-positioning 2 slots....without having to add extra wire length. Of course, 1.), I need to have 2 open positions below for this to work, and 2.) the label-index written on your door needs to be updated.
@@markkempton4579 ..the interlock metal pieces that "interlock" the main breaker position (on/off) needs to be CLOSE to the double-pole breaker used as a "main-breaker" when the generator supplies power. So...yes....if your main breaker is on top, the double pole breaker and interlock pieces are in the upper/right locations. Of course if your main feed is from the bottom, all this stuff needs to match up on the bottom.
Thanks. I am considering wiring a 30amp inlet for a generator to my panel but my main is near the top of the box with only 120v breakers but I want to move them so I can make room for a 240v for interlock.
I did exactly as you did for my generator and had to move a vreaker from top right to bottom left to free up my single 30A breaker for my 120V generator and make it usable with my interlock kit
We still have a lot of homes where I live that have fuse panels...and many of those homes have fuses screwed in that are blown, with a penny behind them LOL. Its surprising the large number of homes around like this, and even more surprising they haven't burned down due to poor electrical wiring, panels, etc.
I think I will keep it simple at first but I am interested in doing multiple different setups. I actually like the ECOFlow Delta Pro setup with 2 units delivering 240V. Also thinking through solar options for my house and also an off-grid garage setup. Do you have a backup setup already?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I currently don't but I'm considering that same setup. I am on well water and rural and am considering it. Almost all days (excluding laundry) I am below 12kwh. Our area has time of use rates and I was considering having this for backup and some automated way for rate arbitrage. to fill the batteries up ultra cheap overnight and use during the day.
Thanks for the video, it is very good! Since there are hot wires still inside the panel, I suggest to wear protective electrical gloves as an extra safety precaution. Regards,
How long does it take to replace it in general? My apartment one is fine and working but they wanna replace it. I worried on my refrigerated food lost. Thank You
Perhaps already mentioned, but those service lugs should be protected by service barriers. I was a little nervous watching you work so close to those uncovered lugs. Great video, though!
Are you a licensed electrician? How do you go about deciding whether you need to get a permit? I'd like to install a 120V outlet for my new gas stove (it only needs 120V/20A dedicated circuit). I'm confident that I can do it on my own, but my concern is that I need a permit before I begin. Do you normally get permits for all of your work or does your home state not require that? Thanks!
There is really nothing wrong with solder but it's so much more work when a wirenut is what most electricians would use and it takes literally 5 seconds. Wago is great for DIYers and some electricians have them, but it's so much more expensive than wirenuts. Wirenuts are also more versatile, they work with 2-6 wires (or more, depending on the size)
Nothing you can do from inside the panel. If you want to split up a circuit then you have to run a new feed from the panel to the circuit you want to split. Keep in mind that circuits generally have 12 items on them. Each receptacle and light is considered to be 1 item. So you could have a circuit with 1 plug and 11 lights. Or 10 plugs and 2 lights etc. Unless you're having overload issues (your breakers would be tripping in this case) there is no need to worry if you have "too many" things on one breaker
My townhouse was built in 1994. Every once-in-a-while (once or twice a month) I notice a short dimming of lights when a regular appliance is turned on. Does this mean I should get my panel checked out. And how long, on the average, do circuit breakers last.
This is "probably" nothing to do with your panel. When you turn on an appliance (maybe a microwave or vacuum) it is not totally uncommon to have your lights dim for just a few seconds, especially with a vacuum which has a high in-rush current. Your panel doesn't 'supply' any electricity, it simply limits how much is distributed throughout your home. A more likely scenario is that your utility transformer (which does supply your home) is not giving sufficient voltage, or you may be trying to use power when everyone else on the street is also trying to use a lot of power (if you're all on the same transformer). Now, if it's your stove/dryer/AC causing lights to dim then it's a bit different. These work across two phases, and having lights dim/flicker while these are running could mean that you have a loose connection in your panel.
I have a question, what can i do if i have 2 free space in my breaker box but no free blank space on the cover. Can i just cut it and make space? Its that gonna violate the code?
Okay, as with anything electric, you turn the power off. However, my circuit breaker (CB) box does not have a switch to turn off power. So, when I needed a CB changed a few years ago, I called an electrician and of course was charged $$$$. He did the entire job with power on....I could have done that!! Can you do a video on how to safely change a CB with power on? Thanks.
I turned off the main breaker in the box and tested the breaker I needed to replace with a meter. I touched the screw with one lead and put the other lead to ground and it read 120 volts AC. Isn't it suppose to read zero? What happened?
I turned off my main braker once and it never came back on... I was told to turn off all the other ones first before turning off the main switch. Not sure if that would matter in all cases but for me it killed the breaker for some reason.
Breaker was probably bad in the first place, if you shut it off, and it wouldn't turn back on, then the breaker itself was junk to begin with, they do wear out over time for various reasons.
How would shutting off the main, put any stress on it? Maybe you mean turning off the breakers before turning the main back on? Also, you're not "tripping" the breaker if you're turning it off, it trips when there's an electrical fault..
03:33 all wires connected to breaker should be screwed at top of screw to go same direction under screw righty tighty wires go clockwise same as screw or could come lose
It would've been more helpful for you to have worn safety glasses, gloves and insulated screw drivers. You were too comfortably close to the 2 hot lines at the bottom. Also, it is very important to inform everyone that these 221-2401 WAGO connectors to only be used in junction boxes and never outside one to prevent sparks and fire and comply with codes. I like these connectors. Game changer! thx
@@Kevin-mp5of Calling someone a Karen for pointing out very real safety concerns that the average DIYer has zero clue about is ridiculous. Along with the gear that he listed, he should also be wearing arc flash PPE instead of the pull over and likely non cotton shirt that he is wearing. He is making videos for which he earns money,, which means that he falls under the purview of OSHA. Thus, he falls under the requirements of NFPA70E. He isn't some guy at his house that doesn't know any better. He is supposedly trying to teach people at home how to do things properly.
If I were moving a breaker I'd make sure that I wasn't disturbing the proper positioning of any breakers for circuits that share neutrals. They might not have been properly handle tied, or maybe it fell off, so not obvious which ones share a neutral. As I understand if you move them from one breaker immediately above the other breaker (on the same side of the panel, same column of slots), you risk putting them on the same phase, which will improperly add the return current on the shared neutral instead of subtract it (so instead of 12-9=3 amps (which a 14 awg wire can handle), for example, you'd have 12+9= 21 amps, which will overheat a 14 awg wire and possibly cause a fire). Know which slots are on the same and different phases (A,B,A,B... as you go down a column in my panel at least) and if you must move a breaker, move it to a slot with the same phase as it had in its original location (that way, if it was next to a breaker that it shared a neutral with, you'll still be on a different phase from that breaker and neutral flow will still subtract, not add).
On Amazon Canada the first question ask if it is rated for Ontario Canada and the answer is yes it's both CSA and UL rated for Canada! But I personely would make sure it was the WAGO brand store just so I would not end up with a WAGO clone or knock off that will most likely not meet the rating!
Yeah, from what I have experienced over the years if they actually say "WAGO" on the image for the product you should be good. If the connect looks like a WAGO but actually doesn't have the label then those are knockoffs.
Sure you can. I have in an industrial facility and my own home. Follow the instructions and strip the proper amount of insulating material and they are as good as anything. I have a habit of wrapping tape around them when I'm done.
My brother in law "moved some of my breakers" to install a hot water heater. My ceiling lights & fans don't work. What do I do now? I don't understand what he moved.
I think my breaker broke. I try to turn the breaker back on but it keeps springing back and I have tried do the full off then on again. The switch feels very loose.
1) Take a picture of the panel manufacturer’s sticker. It’ll include all the breaker models the panel is designed to use. 2) Learn at the manufacturer’s what the various breaker model codes describe … it’s about more than just getting one with the same amperage rating. Example: I have a Cutler-Hammer panel. They often use a 6 alphanumeric model name: letters that describe what kind of breaker it is, numbers describing its amperage and 1 pole vs 2 pole etc. 3) Verify the amperage sticker or marking on the lever matches the breaker’s model. Mistakes happen. I currently have a 20A breaker that the manufacturer mislabeled as a 30A on the lever. You’ll get tripped breakers that way if it’s really a 30A circuit, or a breaker that’ll never trip before the wire burns if a 30A breaker gets mislabeled as a 20A, for example.
I have a Zinsco breakers and I've been told that it's out of rated...No electricians want to deal with it. They want me to pay them to change the whole circuit breaker? Is that necessary? My whole neighborhood has the same circuit breakers.
Zinsco breakers have a failure rate that is generally considered unacceptably high, and their failure is a failure to trip when they should. So your panel may seem like everything is working fine...right up until someone overloads a circuit (e.g. too many heaters on one circuit) and the breaker doesn't trip, allowing the circuit to overheat and possibly ignite something.
My old house had a zinsco panel and I had to replace a breaker. I believe i ordered it online cuz the box stores didnt have it. I believe a company called Connecticut something or other makes breakers for Zinsco panels.
Put the wires on the top so the screw pulls it in not out then you don’t have to use metal pliers to hold it in place. I am not an electrician but I am about to change one and wanted to be 100 and that looks wrong to me.
Nice video however, an inexperienced person in dealing with electricity should not go into an electrical panel for safety reasons. Also, always first turn off the individual breakers before turning off the main breaker and removing the load wire from the individual breaker. Also, don’t wear your ring or other jewelry/watch when with electricity. Lastly, “wire nut(s) is a registered trademark of Ideal Industries. “Wire Nuts” refer to a specific brand of electrical wire connector even though it is used generally by everyone to describe a wire connector. Technically, they should be saying, “wire connector”. This is similar to a “Xerox copy” for a photocopy and Kleenex” for a facial issue.
Reading these comments are hilarious 🤣 hire a certified professional electrician, bc when your insurance ask for the permit and the CE person the did your electrical box after the fire well you’ll figure it out.
Looks like whoever fitted the that board did it blindfolded. Other issue is if you move your live/hot to say the number one position in the board the neutral for that circuit should be in the number one terminal on the neutral bar.......
@@Kevin-mp5of there is where I live and trust me keeping the neutrals in the correct sequence on the bus bar is important because pull the wrong one out and you'll get a nasty surprise
I know the breaker was tripped, but you really should turn it off prior to touching the hot screw. It would normally be live otherwise. And would probably arc if there's a load.
I don’t think you mentioned the fact that these breakers must to be torqued to manufacturers specifications in order to meet code. That’s very important. Most DIYers don’t have torque screwdrivers.
You are correct, but completely unneccessary. Those specs are there because they're required for liability reasons, but electricians also do not use torque screwdrivers. A simple firm twist followed by a tug on the wire is sufficient, while making sure that you are not crushing the copper/aluminum.
I don't know a single person replacing gas appliances with Electric ones. From an economics point of view, you'd have to be an idiot to do that. The same would apply from an environmental point of view. Natural gas appliances are more environmentally friendly due to NG being a very clean burning fuel. Even states like California who have gone batsh*tcrazy and are destroying the natural gas power plants have been quietly buying power from out-of-state that is either produced using Natural Gas and quite often Coal. Just the other day i saw a guy driving an electric car with a bumper sticker that said "powered by coal". As for the economic perspective, 1kWh here in California costs between $0.27 and $0.54 depending on the time of day or what consumption tier you're on. Natural gas costs pennies in comparison.
Please take this video down. As a retired electrician you made me very nervous on how close you were coming to the hot main conductors in this panel. Dude you are going to get killed or get someone else killed doing this type of work. All your breakers are wired wrong (the wire should be inserted on the other side of the clamp so the screw pulls the wire in instead of push it out. Look at the left side middle screw hole in the panel right before you put the cover on, Do you see you have the wires threaded very close the where the screw is inserted? Guess what happens when you turn on the main breaker and that wire is now grounded? (Flash explosion) Also never move wires in a panel because some circuits need to be on a specific phase or you will overload your neutral returns causing a fire. Electricians go to school so this stuff does not happen. And then there is the lability of this video. A lawyer would have a field day playing this in court.
As someone who knows nothing about electricity and searched how to do breakers because in 2 minutes I’m installing some 30 amp doubles and moving all of them down a few slots…this is the one and only video I’m watching. You worry to much.
Moving breakers? I sure hope you do not get 2 breakers that use the same neutral on the same phase. If you do you will overload your neutral wire and have a safety issue. @@jward123321
I think the wires are secured into clamps that are tightened by the screws, not wrapped around the screws. Also I think if you maintain odd/even sequencing that will keep everything on the right phase
Just watched this person replace a qo square d breaker... i like to know if he a licence electrician....if you put the wire of the circuit on top the wire tightens it self when you tighten the screw...
@Kudos2ooU Yes. It is typically located at the top or bottom of the panel, depending on where the leads from the meter enter the box. It can be a left/right toggle or sometimes a up/down toggle (down is always the "OFF" position). Like all breakers, it has it's amperage rating stamped or printed on it. Up until the late 60's, 60 amp service was common. In the 70's, 100 amp service came out and now is the minimum. And their was 125 and 150 amp service. Now of course new houses start at 200, and some that are all electric, with a pool and heavy AC are starting to go to 400 amp service!
![How To Install A New Circuit Breaker DIY [AVOID Electrician]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZsxZCrBt-L0/mqdefault.jpg)
Straight forward, uncomplicated thorough explanations. Thank-you. I have an older home I just purchased. Electrical is a mess. 40 space panel box. Tons of junction boxes under house in crawl space. Can't seem to get an electrician to come out. Each video of yours I watch, I become far more confident. I've done some simple wiring before and I do have common sense so I've been successful. I have 7 very old and broken baseboard heaters that I want out. I don't want to remove them and cap off the wires. I would prefer to remove them (220) from panel altogether. You've taken away the mystery of the service panel for me! Thank-you again.
Electrician here; Great video, clear and concise.
Really?
@@michaeldunham3385 Yeah, this is an excellent video for someone who has no experience in panels. Would allow to you perform the job from start to finish.
The labels on the door. Don't forget those! 🎉
I just had to do this on a Sunday morning. Never done it before and this helped me out greatly.
Thank you for the trick about extending the wires. I have to do exactly that and move a couple breakers to the bottom for an interlock kit that I want to install. Keep up the great work.
Nice, what are you planning for your backup power? Gender or batteries?
Generator. I have a 2500 W inverter generator that I use now that powers most things like a couple refrigerators, lights and Internet using extension cords. I want to add a soft start to the AC and get a NG generator that will handle the AC in the summer. I have to do the calculations, but will probably add a 30 amp outlet outside to connect to the panel. I’m guessing I could Dogbone the smaller generator to the 30 amp and only turn on the breakers needed. Then I can use the larger generator when needed on the 30amp.
BTW, I bought the pack of WAGO connectors and I’ve used them a couple times. Love them. I hate wire nuts.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Also thought about adding a GenerLink (~$1k), but thought the cost would be too much compared to the interlock kit and adding an outside outlet. Although the cost of 6/3 wire, that’s pretty pricey. If the GenerLink fails outside the warranty period, then I’m out the $1k.
@@jerrybell6786 how about an inlet for the generator instead of an outlet, and an interlock?
@@jerrybell6786 ...HINT : I had the same problem....adding a double-pole breaker for an interlock kit ( in my case, the line power and main-breaker were on top, and I needed space at upper/right positions, 2 and 4). To cope with the "too-short" wire problem you discuss at 4:50...where you show the WAGO connectors to lengthen the wire.....I simply moved the entire array of remaining breakers down 2 more positions....to open up the needed top-2 positions I needed. My point?---> each breaker has enough "slack" to allow re-positioning 2 more slots down, each....without having to add extra wire length. Of course, 1.), I need to have 2 open positions below the entire array, for this to work, and 2.) the label-index written on your door needs to be updated.
You were so in the money when you said the G. E. breaker brand usually goes bad. I wanted to see which breaker was being used for my circuit, I found it and turn it off so I could add another outlet. Bad mistake tuning it off, now none of my five outlets work. I turn the breaker back on and nothing happened, all my outlets were wired correctly. I tested the breaker, and sure enough, it was bad but not tripped. A new breaker from Home Depot solved my problem. Thank you for posting your videos. They are very helpful.
So glad I came across your video. I am doing exactly what you are doing, with the exact same panel, as my main is on the bottom. I have to move the upper left circuit breaker to the lower left to install the interlock kit for the generator. Thank you for your detailed explanation as I was wondering how to do that.
Don't forget to update your breaker index labels on the back of the panel door, if necessary.
Make sure the bare conductor is fully inserted behind the screw plate on the breaker connector (you should see a little bit exposed through the other side of the plate - as you did) and ensure you properly torque the screws (applies to the neutral and ground bars as well). I picked up a box of those Wago butt connectors for just such use, as well as receptacle side extensions in case they are short. They are very handy for this.
WOW, you work fast, like "The Flash" Thank you for posting this video. I've done that more than I care too. I am competent but not comfortable, but being forced into austerity, by poverty is what I must do. I'll visit your Amazon again. I purchased Wago from your Amazon before but they didn't have butt splice. I am redoing every wire nut I happen across with Wago because it's just so much better, than twisting and straining the wires. Especially in this house. I have to be careful because the Romex Jacket on my wires has asbestos, so I don't want to be splicing wires and pulling back the jacket on Romex, creating dust.
I really like Joel and Electro Pro Academy. He's the best in my book.
I should add that wiring is probably your last concern when it comes to asbestos. The ducting in your attic or the joint compound in drywall in homes prior to 1973 have high risk of asbestos. My home was build in 1973 and the ducts in my attic have a silvery coating on them, and are wrapped in fiberglass insulation. If left alone they don't pose a danger, but if you crack that coating on the duct, it will get fibers into the air. A guy i know in the duct cleaning business explained to me that you can coat those ducts with spray adhesive to prevent this issue and that this is commonly done when removing the ducts to prevent exposure.
I was told by the real estate agent that I have fiberglass, and that it is not asbestos nor vermiculite. I asked him specifically. Though all indications I have, is the agent, David Rumpf, is crooked. He surely scammed me.@@LBCAndrew
Dude thank you! I never have ever messed with a breaker box and today I just fixed some! I feel manly now! lol thank you!
Actually I moved a breaker from top to the bottom and the wire was short so I extended that wire with a wago connector. But I was wondering if doing that was okay and now after watching this video I'm so much relieved that my action was okay.
👊
Did the same thing for my generator, used wite nuts for 2 of the breakers and wagos for my 15A tandem breakers i relocated to the very bottom to be on the got leg of my panel since my generator is 120V and only powers 1 leg. I was able to add living room and bathroom lights to the powered 1/2 by moving my 2 breakers
There's a good topic here of unusual things non-electricians rarely realize which gets them into trouble when it applies.
One of the breakers moved to a different phase. There are older houses with non-obvious multiwire branch circuits and if phases are improperly switched there's a double loaded neutral, i.e. fire hazard. Do not trust red and black wire colors. Keep breakers on the same phase or do absolute validation that it is safe to change.
@@Kevin-mp5of Yes, you are right. Usually it will be obvious. Still, not too long ago I was looking at Square D panel with some breakers to knob and tube runs. Obviously no red wires there. Weird unusual stuff is out there, too, just less often. Want to be safe for even those cases.
@@Kevin-mp5of I understand common trip became a requirement in the '78 revision, but I don't see it well adopted until houses from the 90s era. Seen many (still a minority though) panel post installation updates not keep the common trip, unfortunately.
Square D ( Schneider Electric) also makes a plug on neutral style box. Those are different design breakers that eliminate the need for an extra neutral for AFCI and GFCI breakers.
Great explanation. 1:30 It is very smart of you, to point that they are still hot wire live even if the main breaker is close. The tree main wire coming from outside should be cover to protect electrician. There is no reason for company not to do that, except money. I f you ever want to inspect if they are well connected you could remove the ''cover''
Is not all DIY who now that. People might say, if they don't know (DIY) there should not be working inside the panel, well some DIY think that everything is safe because they been told to shut the main breaker. I remember telling somebody who was installing a breaker to watch out, and he freak out because dint realize that.
@mastopage3120 They may not have had those lug covers when this was installed, nor was it required. I think Square D was the first (there yellow rubber/vinyl with their logo molded in) .
HINT : I had the same problem....adding a double-pole breaker for an interlock kit ( in my case, the line power and main-breaker were on top, and I needed space at upper/right positions, 2 and 4). To cope with the "too-short" wire problem you discuss at 4:50...where you show the WAGO connectors to lengthen the wire.....I simply moved the entire array of remaining breakers down 2 more positions....to open up the needed top-2 positions I needed. My point?---> each breaker has enough "slack" to allow re-positioning 2 slots....without having to add extra wire length. Of course, 1.), I need to have 2 open positions below for this to work, and 2.) the label-index written on your door needs to be updated.
That's brilliant. Nicely done! My main is also at the top and I'm hoping to do the interlock. Does it also have to be at the top?
@@markkempton4579 ..the interlock metal pieces that "interlock" the main breaker position (on/off) needs to be CLOSE to the double-pole breaker used as a "main-breaker" when the generator supplies power. So...yes....if your main breaker is on top, the double pole breaker and interlock pieces are in the upper/right locations. Of course if your main feed is from the bottom, all this stuff needs to match up on the bottom.
Thanks. I am considering wiring a 30amp inlet for a generator to my panel but my main is near the top of the box with only 120v breakers but I want to move them so I can make room for a 240v for interlock.
I did exactly as you did for my generator and had to move a vreaker from top right to bottom left to free up my single 30A breaker for my 120V generator and make it usable with my interlock kit
We still have a lot of homes where I live that have fuse panels...and many of those homes have fuses screwed in that are blown, with a penny behind them LOL. Its surprising the large number of homes around like this, and even more surprising they haven't burned down due to poor electrical wiring, panels, etc.
For your upcoming backup power, I'm wondering if you thiught about using an automatic transfer switch
I think I will keep it simple at first but I am interested in doing multiple different setups. I actually like the ECOFlow Delta Pro setup with 2 units delivering 240V. Also thinking through solar options for my house and also an off-grid garage setup. Do you have a backup setup already?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I currently don't but I'm considering that same setup. I am on well water and rural and am considering it. Almost all days (excluding laundry) I am below 12kwh.
Our area has time of use rates and I was considering having this for backup and some automated way for rate arbitrage. to fill the batteries up ultra cheap overnight and use during the day.
Thanks for the video, it is very good! Since there are hot wires still inside the panel, I suggest to wear protective electrical gloves as an extra safety precaution. Regards,
Good feedback, thank you 👍
Nice video. And don't forget to relabel your panel description sheet.
Awesome video. Answered every question I had!
How long does it take to replace it in general? My apartment one is fine and working but they wanna replace it. I worried on my refrigerated food lost.
Thank You
Perhaps already mentioned, but those service lugs should be protected by service barriers. I was a little nervous watching you work so close to those uncovered lugs. Great video, though!
Not uncommon on older panels
Square D QO breaker does the year matter if it has like type breaker or the type with the hook?
Awesome Scott ! 👍
Thanks Scott for another great video!!
How would you move a 50amp from top to bottom
If i move a breaker from one side to the other side ,do i need to move the ground to the other side also?
Does WAGO make butt connectors for 10 gauge?
Are you a licensed electrician? How do you go about deciding whether you need to get a permit? I'd like to install a 120V outlet for my new gas stove (it only needs 120V/20A dedicated circuit). I'm confident that I can do it on my own, but my concern is that I need a permit before I begin. Do you normally get permits for all of your work or does your home state not require that? Thanks!
Good video, well done! Thanks for the info.
Excellent content as always.
My circuit panel is
I would take my wedding ring off while working in a live panel.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful
To extend a wire in the panel could you just twist and solder the wires using heat sink to cover the splice ?
There is really nothing wrong with solder but it's so much more work when a wirenut is what most electricians would use and it takes literally 5 seconds. Wago is great for DIYers and some electricians have them, but it's so much more expensive than wirenuts. Wirenuts are also more versatile, they work with 2-6 wires (or more, depending on the size)
I already got them 👍
What about balancing out circuits? I have some with too many things on it and others with barely an outlet on it. What to do?
Nothing you can do from inside the panel. If you want to split up a circuit then you have to run a new feed from the panel to the circuit you want to split. Keep in mind that circuits generally have 12 items on them. Each receptacle and light is considered to be 1 item. So you could have a circuit with 1 plug and 11 lights. Or 10 plugs and 2 lights etc. Unless you're having overload issues (your breakers would be tripping in this case) there is no need to worry if you have "too many" things on one breaker
@@avsrule247 thanks for info Matt doesn't sound like a diy project at least not to me
My townhouse was built in 1994. Every once-in-a-while (once or twice a month) I notice a short dimming of lights when a regular appliance is turned on. Does this mean I should get my panel checked out. And how long, on the average, do circuit breakers last.
This is "probably" nothing to do with your panel. When you turn on an appliance (maybe a microwave or vacuum) it is not totally uncommon to have your lights dim for just a few seconds, especially with a vacuum which has a high in-rush current. Your panel doesn't 'supply' any electricity, it simply limits how much is distributed throughout your home. A more likely scenario is that your utility transformer (which does supply your home) is not giving sufficient voltage, or you may be trying to use power when everyone else on the street is also trying to use a lot of power (if you're all on the same transformer).
Now, if it's your stove/dryer/AC causing lights to dim then it's a bit different. These work across two phases, and having lights dim/flicker while these are running could mean that you have a loose connection in your panel.
What if I want to just remove a breaker what cables do I remove or cap off?
Where the video you were pointing at I couldn't access
I think we got them working this link will take you right to the part ruclips.net/video/BG9I-PokSdI/видео.html
I have a question, what can i do if i have 2 free space in my breaker box but no free blank space on the cover. Can i just cut it and make space? Its that gonna violate the code?
If you have spaces on the busbar you should have knockouts on the cover which can be easily removed with some pliers. Is that not the case?
Okay, as with anything electric, you turn the power off. However, my circuit breaker (CB) box does not have a switch to turn off power. So, when I needed a CB changed a few years ago, I called an electrician and of course was charged $$$$. He did the entire job with power on....I could have done that!! Can you do a video on how to safely change a CB with power on? Thanks.
I turned off the main breaker in the box and tested the breaker I needed to replace with a meter. I touched the screw with one lead and put the other lead to ground and it read 120 volts AC. Isn't it suppose to read zero? What happened?
What if you don’t have a main breaker in the panel?
I turned off my main braker once and it never came back on... I was told to turn off all the other ones first before turning off the main switch. Not sure if that would matter in all cases but for me it killed the breaker for some reason.
Hmmmm, first I have heard of something like that. I have turned off the main breaker hundreds of times and never had a failure. 🤷♂️
Breaker was probably bad in the first place, if you shut it off, and it wouldn't turn back on, then the breaker itself was junk to begin with, they do wear out over time for various reasons.
I thought turning off all the breakers was to prevent a possible surge from damaging anything plugged in when the power is turned back on.
I thought best practice is to trip all the breakers before the main. Was told the main is not designed to handle being tripped under load.
Exactly
How would shutting off the main, put any stress on it? Maybe you mean turning off the breakers before turning the main back on? Also, you're not "tripping" the breaker if you're turning it off, it trips when there's an electrical fault..
How do you know you need to replace your breaker ?
inner portion of my new breaker won’t snap in ( despite being identical to one being replaced)😞
03:33 all wires connected to breaker should be screwed at top of screw to go same direction under screw righty tighty wires go clockwise same as screw or could come lose
Maybe you should watch the ten seconds before that, where he puts the wire behind a backing plate, therefore it doesn't matter what you just said?
It would've been more helpful for you to have worn safety glasses, gloves and insulated screw drivers. You were too comfortably close to the 2 hot lines at the bottom. Also, it is very important to inform everyone that these 221-2401 WAGO connectors to only be used in junction boxes and never outside one to prevent sparks and fire and comply with codes. I like these connectors. Game changer! thx
Thanks for the feedback👍
@@Kevin-mp5of Calling someone a Karen for pointing out very real safety concerns that the average DIYer has zero clue about is ridiculous. Along with the gear that he listed, he should also be wearing arc flash PPE instead of the pull over and likely non cotton shirt that he is wearing.
He is making videos for which he earns money,, which means that he falls under the purview of OSHA. Thus, he falls under the requirements of NFPA70E. He isn't some guy at his house that doesn't know any better. He is supposedly trying to teach people at home how to do things properly.
If I were moving a breaker I'd make sure that I wasn't disturbing the proper positioning of any breakers for circuits that share neutrals. They might not have been properly handle tied, or maybe it fell off, so not obvious which ones share a neutral. As I understand if you move them from one breaker immediately above the other breaker (on the same side of the panel, same column of slots), you risk putting them on the same phase, which will improperly add the return current on the shared neutral instead of subtract it (so instead of 12-9=3 amps (which a 14 awg wire can handle), for example, you'd have 12+9= 21 amps, which will overheat a 14 awg wire and possibly cause a fire). Know which slots are on the same and different phases (A,B,A,B... as you go down a column in my panel at least) and if you must move a breaker, move it to a slot with the same phase as it had in its original location (that way, if it was next to a breaker that it shared a neutral with, you'll still be on a different phase from that breaker and neutral flow will still subtract, not add).
SCOTT, What do you mean by Nuisance trip? how do you measure or troubleshooting nuisance trips
Mine doesn’t have a main visible. ?
THANKS SCOTT,JUST THAT EASY…IF WE FOLLOW YOUR DIRECTIONS 🤗💚💚💚
Hi. Does anyone know if Wago Connectors can be used in Canada ?
On Amazon Canada the first question ask if it is rated for Ontario Canada and the answer is yes it's both CSA and UL rated for Canada! But I personely would make sure it was the WAGO brand store just so I would not end up with a WAGO clone or knock off that will most likely not meet the rating!
Yeah, from what I have experienced over the years if they actually say "WAGO" on the image for the product you should be good. If the connect looks like a WAGO but actually doesn't have the label then those are knockoffs.
Sure you can. I have in an industrial facility and my own home. Follow the instructions and strip the proper amount of insulating material and they are as good as anything. I have a habit of wrapping tape around them when I'm done.
My brother in law "moved some of my breakers" to install a hot water heater. My ceiling lights & fans don't work. What do I do now? I don't understand what he moved.
Hire an electrician.
And find a new brother-in-law.
thank you sir
You bet!
I think my breaker broke. I try to turn the breaker back on but it keeps springing back and I have tried do the full off then on again. The switch feels very loose.
I’m convinced wago is a cult !
Hahahaha 🤫
1) Take a picture of the panel manufacturer’s sticker. It’ll include all the breaker models the panel is designed to use.
2) Learn at the manufacturer’s what the various breaker model codes describe … it’s about more than just getting one with the same amperage rating.
Example: I have a Cutler-Hammer panel. They often use a 6 alphanumeric model name: letters that describe what kind of breaker it is, numbers describing its amperage and 1 pole vs 2 pole etc.
3) Verify the amperage sticker or marking on the lever matches the breaker’s model. Mistakes happen. I currently have a 20A breaker that the manufacturer mislabeled as a 30A on the lever. You’ll get tripped breakers that way if it’s really a 30A circuit, or a breaker that’ll never trip before the wire burns if a 30A breaker gets mislabeled as a 20A, for example.
I have a Zinsco breakers and I've been told that it's out of rated...No electricians want to deal with it. They want me to pay them to change the whole circuit breaker?
Is that necessary? My whole neighborhood has the same circuit breakers.
Zinsco breakers have a failure rate that is generally considered unacceptably high, and their failure is a failure to trip when they should.
So your panel may seem like everything is working fine...right up until someone overloads a circuit (e.g. too many heaters on one circuit) and the breaker doesn't trip, allowing the circuit to overheat and possibly ignite something.
My old house had a zinsco panel and I had to replace a breaker. I believe i ordered it online cuz the box stores didnt have it. I believe a company called Connecticut something or other makes breakers for Zinsco panels.
Put the wires on the top so the screw pulls it in not out then you don’t have to use metal pliers to hold it in place. I am not an electrician but I am about to change one and wanted to be 100 and that looks wrong to me.
I would always get a licensed electrician to do this. if only for insurance purposes
Don't you need rubber gloves, boots and mats for safety? Just asking, not an electrician.
Nice video however, an inexperienced person in dealing with electricity should not go into an electrical panel for safety reasons. Also, always first turn off the individual breakers before turning off the main breaker and removing the load wire from the individual breaker. Also, don’t wear your ring or other jewelry/watch when with electricity. Lastly, “wire nut(s) is a registered trademark of Ideal Industries. “Wire Nuts” refer to a specific brand of electrical wire connector even though it is used generally by everyone to describe a wire connector. Technically, they should be saying, “wire connector”. This is similar to a “Xerox copy” for a photocopy and Kleenex” for a facial issue.
Reading these comments are hilarious 🤣 hire a certified professional electrician, bc when your insurance ask for the permit and the CE person the did your electrical box after the fire well you’ll figure it out.
Looks like whoever fitted the that board did it blindfolded.
Other issue is if you move your live/hot to say the number one position in the board the neutral for that circuit should be in the number one terminal on the neutral bar.......
@@Kevin-mp5of there is where I live and trust me keeping the neutrals in the correct sequence on the bus bar is important because pull the wrong one out and you'll get a nasty surprise
I know the breaker was tripped, but you really should turn it off prior to touching the hot screw. It would normally be live otherwise. And would probably arc if there's a load.
I don’t think you mentioned the fact that these breakers must to be torqued to manufacturers specifications in order to meet code. That’s very important. Most DIYers don’t have torque screwdrivers.
not necessary
You are correct, but completely unneccessary. Those specs are there because they're required for liability reasons, but electricians also do not use torque screwdrivers. A simple firm twist followed by a tug on the wire is sufficient, while making sure that you are not crushing the copper/aluminum.
I don't know a single person replacing gas appliances with Electric ones. From an economics point of view, you'd have to be an idiot to do that. The same would apply from an environmental point of view. Natural gas appliances are more environmentally friendly due to NG being a very clean burning fuel. Even states like California who have gone batsh*tcrazy and are destroying the natural gas power plants have been quietly buying power from out-of-state that is either produced using Natural Gas and quite often Coal. Just the other day i saw a guy driving an electric car with a bumper sticker that said "powered by coal".
As for the economic perspective, 1kWh here in California costs between $0.27 and $0.54 depending on the time of day or what consumption tier you're on. Natural gas costs pennies in comparison.
Please take this video down. As a retired electrician you made me very nervous on how close you were coming to the hot main conductors in this panel. Dude you are going to get killed or get someone else killed doing this type of work. All your breakers are wired wrong (the wire should be inserted on the other side of the clamp so the screw pulls the wire in instead of push it out. Look at the left side middle screw hole in the panel right before you put the cover on, Do you see you have the wires threaded very close the where the screw is inserted? Guess what happens when you turn on the main breaker and that wire is now grounded? (Flash explosion) Also never move wires in a panel because some circuits need to be on a specific phase or you will overload your neutral returns causing a fire. Electricians go to school so this stuff does not happen. And then there is the lability of this video. A lawyer would have a field day playing this in court.
As someone who knows nothing about electricity and searched how to do breakers because in 2 minutes I’m installing some 30 amp doubles and moving all of them down a few slots…this is the one and only video I’m watching. You worry to much.
Moving breakers? I sure hope you do not get 2 breakers that use the same neutral on the same phase. If you do you will overload your neutral wire and have a safety issue. @@jward123321
@@jward123321safety is number 1 over everything.
@@jward123321I was just going to ask this question. Could I just move each breaker down one or two slots to open up a spot near the top main switch.
I think the wires are secured into clamps that are tightened by the screws, not wrapped around the screws. Also I think if you maintain odd/even sequencing that will keep everything on the right phase
Just watched this person replace a qo square d breaker... i like to know if he a licence electrician....if you put the wire of the circuit on top the wire tightens it self when you tighten the screw...
QO breakers (10-30A) are rated to accept 2 conductors under 1 terminal for copper wire size #14-#10.
This doesn't matter when there's a clamping plate. If the wire is directly under the screw head, then you would be correct.
You are wrong @@JCWren
@@BlitzHackIf you can't explain why, then your comment is pointless. Cite your evidence.
Its called common sense @@JCWren
Get a helmet
GET A GUY that stands in front of Home Depot. They will do it for $50
The whole point of watching video like this is to DIY. It’s not that difficult and it’s a skill a homeowner needs to learn.
Yeah, and when he dies, you get to support his family for the rest of your life.
And this is why I asked him to remove this video. People like you who are not wise enough to see real danger. @@spintius3752
I’ll call a certified professional electrician I want it done right the first time! Got to be union too.
Are you an electrician?
@@Kevin-mp5of ok CFL
@@Kevin-mp5of yes LFD....lol
@@Kevin-mp5of no doubt YHALD
What's a main disconnect mean . Do you mean the main breaker switch on the panel?
@Kudos2ooU Yes. It is typically located at the top or bottom of the panel, depending on where the leads from the meter enter the box. It can be a left/right toggle or sometimes a up/down toggle (down is always the "OFF" position). Like all breakers, it has it's amperage rating stamped or printed on it. Up until the late 60's, 60 amp service was common. In the 70's, 100 amp service came out and now is the minimum. And their was 125 and 150 amp service. Now of course new houses start at 200, and some that are all electric, with a pool and heavy AC are starting to go to 400 amp service!
I have a 40 amps braker in my panel for AC. Should be 30amps?
Depends on the size AC unit. Usually there is a manufacture tag on the housing that calls out the amperage.
Power divided by voltage gives you the amps
What size wire is going to the breaker? You want the breaker to be the weakest link of the circuit so you better not say 10AWG