14-Gauge Extension Cord (6 ft) - geni.us/FzQmE Light Switch / Outlet Combo - geni.us/KNFb WAGO Wire Connectors - geni.us/NkcBP Klein Tools 11-in-1 Screwdriver - geni.us/gfNB Knipex Hybrid Wire Strippers - geni.us/uVWn EcoFlow Delta 3 Plus Power Station - geni.us/nQuyy7 DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I made this same modification in my two previous houses in SE Michigan in the mid-90's and early 2000's. We were plagued with frequent multiday power outages during the winter - this saved me many times.
Scott, I have learned a ton from your channel and have used so many of your videos to help with my DIY. I know this isn't much but wanted to send my thanks from North Carolina. Appreciate you sir .Thanks!
Hey James, thanks so much for the support. I really appreciate it and hopefully I can continue to help you with your DIY needs in the future. Take care 👍
No need to remove the tab or jump. By reversing the wiring (hot line wire to hot load terminal), you were already ensuring that the switch controlled the receptacle. Easy to demonstrate with continuity test.
You are 100% correct. I found an error in the Leviton graphics on page#2 for the instructions and this probably caused the confusion. I explain in a post above. Kind regards
Just got one of those screw drivers for my electrical work kit. Very handy. I sometimes forget all the bits it has and catch myself going for a different tool then I remember it has it.
I have built something very similar but solved a problem they didn't address early on with the EZ setup. I actually have two - one for downstrairs furnace and the other for upstairs. Running furnaces off a Champion 2500 watt inverter. Hasn't failed me yet. As long as both units don't kick on at the same time, it's all good. Will *never* have a repeat of the 2021 Texas ice storm power outgages again. Initially I've got 6 propane (BBQ sytle) tanks, and if I run out, have 40 gallons of gas in my transfer tank on my truck.
I live in central Maine and it can get very cold here. I want to be able to plug the oil-fired boiler into a 2,000 watt power station if I lose power. Can you show us how to set that up? Even if I hire an electrician to do the work, I like to understand it. I’ve installed a few receptacles and a new circuit but I want to be sure it’s done correctly and safely which is why I want to understand the job. I live near a hospital so my loss of electricity is usually short but it can go way below zero here. I love your videos. Glad you achieved a million followers. You deserve it.
I have a fireplace insert with a plenum chamber above it. At the top of that plenum chamber are two 8" standpipes which are plumbed into my hot air return. Just above the fireplace is a 36" long, 8" grate for air intake to the plenum chamber. When I get a fire going the air inside the plenum chamber gets hot (obviously) and rises, pulling in replacement air through the grate. This forces hot air through the return duct and eventually through the heating ducts. There is no electricity required, just a normal fire in the fireplace. No power station needed for heat, but I do own several for basic needs during an outage.
Funny thing about this is that when my house was built in the '80s, the plug-in cord was apparently legal/code. (There were two furnaces in the house, both wired with a plug to an outlet. Of course this is Albuquerque, so who knows...) When I had one replaced, it had to be hardwired per current code. So, this is sort of reverting to old code.
Believe it or not, though expensive, there is (or was, I have one installed) a double pull, double through, center off, switch that does this easily. I have it as the switch between my line voltage and my generator. Basically a transfer switch before home transfer switches were made.
Two other commenters beat me to it, but I’ll ask the same question anyway: what was the point of breaking the tab only to essentially replace it with a jumper wire?
@@MegaSuperEnriquethat’s not what Willp4139 was asking. He’s talking about the jumper on the switch/ receptacle that he broke off and then made a jumper for. Which is a step that was not needed since the switch was fed from the load side.
I think the electricity flow in the tab is not controlled by the switch. It always flows via tab if we connect the hot to the black screw terminal. If we break the tab, and add a jumper, we can control the flow via the switch.
A neutral ground bonding plug should never be used in your home. These are only for recreational vehicles under certain conditions. Improper use can cause shocks, fires, and equipment damage. You are essentially sharing the return path of your neutral potential with your equipment ground.
I'm confused, why did you break off the tab just to replace it with a jumper wire? Or am I not understanding how this outlet switch combo thing works? Does the tab connect the two screws on the same side of the outlet, or does it connect to the hot on the other side? If that's the case, why not just swap the power in and switch power out wires?
This threw me too. But after some research, the tab doesnt connect the switch to the plug. It connects the plug to the hot, always on side of the switch. Break the tab to make it so the plug isn't attached to the hot side of the switch. Connect the terminals with the jumper and now you have the hot going into the top terminal, through the switch, down the jumper to the plug at the bottom.
The tab broke the connection to the line side gold screw that would make the outlet powered as always on. Breaking the tab then cuts the power and then connecting to the single pole switch screw terminal allows you to control the outlet power with the switch.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Scott please take another look at this. The top right terminal of those outlets is the normal line in side. You put the hot line in onto the top left screw terminal which is technically the load side of that switch. There was no need to break the tab. Leviton has a video explaining this. It’s in another comment
@@EverydayHomeRepairsThat's true if you connected power to the line side with both screws, but you connected the power to the other (switched ) side. That uses the switch to control power to the two screws and the outlet as well, with the tab in place.
I'm getting closer to getting around to this. The startup amps is concerning me for my 2000/3000 W surge inverter. The inverter could not handle a gas dryer startup.
I don't understand the point of breaking off the tab on the hot side of the switch/outlet combo then essentially replacing that tab with the short length of black wire. You broke the connection then essentially repaired it, so what is the point of even bothering to break it in the first place?
With the tab in place, the outlet is always "on." By breaking the tab and adding a jumper, the switch now controls the outlet. You'd leave the tab on if you want the switch to control, for example, a light while having the outlet always hot.
@@tckoppang this is not correct. The line side of that fixture is the top right terminal. He is wiring it with the line in on the normal load terminal on purpose. The tab connects the two terminals on the right hand side and so does the jumper wire. There was no need to break the tab
@@chuckb4375 I would highly recommend everyone pull up the wiring diagram for this specific switch. There is no internal bus. And there was no need to break the tab
I had the same question. I have no doubt this guy is hitting his forehead with his palm after watching the edit. But he had to publish it anyway. He's a smart dude and admits any mistake or errors in thought on subsequent videos.
I think the electricity flow in the tab is not controlled by the switch. It always flows via tab if we connect the hot to the black screw terminal. If we break the tab, and add a jumper, we can control the flow via the switch.
@@jineeshpr The switch component actually has a defined source side and defined load side. The source is tied in with the hot on the side with the tab. This is because it is designed to provide both switch and outlet functions independently. If your outlet is your load, you are technically supposed to break the tab and jumper a wire across and down from the load side. But since the switch doesn't care which way is which, it all works the same by keeping the tab and wiring your source of the switch to its Load screw. It does mean you are putting a screw with a Hot wire mm's from the screw with the Neutral wire, which is fine but dicey.
My sense is that the steel connection between conduit and box was a legal way to ground an electrical box until a couple of decades ago when they made people bring a copper ground wire into every box.
Depends on the armored cable type. MC cable has a ground wire and the armor is not rated for use as a equipment ground. AC cable has no ground wire only a small internal bonding strip. This cable grounds through the armor. EMT can also ground through the metal pipe some electricians will want to run a ground wire but it is not a code requirement.
I installed an EZ Generator Switch. Website is just all 3 words concatenated together. Some modern furnace electronics will not work if the ground is not proper. EZ Generator Switch wiring can support either bonded neutral generators or floating neutral generators to ensure that the electronics work properly.
Those plastic tabs are not preventing the grounding of your outlet. They’re just holding the screws in. The rule of thumb is if there is a ground screw, ground it. It’s overkill, but that is the beauty of electrical safety.
I've seen this before and like the idea, but really what is the purpose of the switch when you need to unplug it from the outlet to plug it into the power station anyway?
It's part of the national electric code meant to protect the maintenance guys from getting electrocuted if the breaker is switched on by someone else far away
I do find it interesting when people express alarm that we're going electric-only in MN without realizing that their gas furnace without a generator also doesn't work when the power goes out. This video is a nice option for them to fix the issue they don't realize they have. Our approach has been to basically get our house closer to passive house levels of insulation and air sealing, so if power goes out we won't have severe issues before power comes back on.
Beware...CO/Smoke detectors are wired into the same circuit as the furnace and usually within 10ft of the furnace. Disconnecting the annoying detector also shuts off the source of CO. Modifying your furnace with a cord like this does not back feed power to the detector. If it did you would have to shut off the furnace breaker. Get a licensed electrician to do this...please. They make dedicated furnace transfer switches that go in next to the panel.
Isn't one of the exposed prongs of the extension cord hot when the switch is on? If you pull the extension cord plug out of the receptacle with the switch on and power supplied somebody could get shocked. If this is true then an external cover and some warning labels seem in order.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I see. You converted the furnace power supply to a cord supply, and the switched receptacle just coincidentally was mounted on the side of the furnace. Didn't get it until now. You could even run a 50 foot extension cord out to a truck's inverter. Very versatile. Thanks.
I was confused at first but had to draw it out on paper to get it haha. The extension cord when plugged into the outlet, makes the connection from the furnace to the house breaker panel. When you unplug the cord it basically disconnects the furnace from the house panel. Then you plug it into the backup power source and it feeds only the furnace. In normal operation, the switch acts the same as before, just as a safety off switch if working on the furnace.
If I plug in a generator via 1200watt cord to this outlet, do I need to worry about whether either (outlet &/or generator) are bonded neutral or floating neutral?
I would pull a ground to that switch for sure. It would be cleaner if you would’ve seperated the wires off of the extension cord inside the box but not 100% necessary .
So there was nice metal conduit and metal box to protect supply wires going into the furnace. I like Scott's workmanship, but I wonder what NEC2023 would have to say about the idea of running a cheap unprotected 14g extension cord into the box thru knockout & clamp?
I think the main concern is that a furnace is required to be hard wired. I thought of doing this but instead just replaced the wire nuts with Wagos so that if there's an extended power outage I can easily disconnect the wires from switch and connect the extension cord. Not as simple but same end result and then the other 99+% of the time it's code compliant. Thankfully I've only had to do it once in the last few years.
@@kamX-rz4uy That's an interesting idea! Do you keep that unconnected extension cord near your furnace always ready to go, and secured with cable clamp close to box to prevent accidental pull out from Wagos?
@@chuckb4375 It's near the furnace in a bag marked something like generator furnace cord. I didn't use a cable clamp, just had slack in the wires and cord and no one else was allowed near the furnace for safety. It would be a good idea to secure it though.
My furnace has a cord that is plugged into a receptacle. I just need to run an extension cord from my portable gas generator to the furnace. Unplug the furnace and plug it into the generator until the power comes back on.
....you removed the tab and then replaced it with a jumper wire for no reason. The terminal tou connected the "hot" to is normally the "load" terminal. The purpose of the tab is to keep the switch and outlet on separate circuits, only if you choose. By putting the hot wire onto the terminal which is typically meant for the load, you made the switch control the outlet by default. Breaking the tab was totally unnecessary and putting the wire on there literally is just taking place of the tab. Think about it for a moment and it should make sense.
I have been watching your videos from the beginning. This one seemed rushed and your explaniations were a bit coudy. First, cutting the tab made no sense thinking of a regular outlet. Upon reviewing a second time i see the brass ribbon going from the outlet to the left side to the load screw. Then it made sense to cut it. This was not explained. I am about at your level of electrical knowledge so then i understood what is going on. You usually are great at explaining, that got missed. Second, the little paper tab holding the screws, it is really unnecessary to remove them for grounding. The screw itself bonds the unit to the box bypassing the paper. For me leaving the paper there saves me potentially hours of frustration looking for the screws when the fall out of the unit and roll under the furnace. Everyone has an off day. It is like you had to hurry and get done and post this so you did not miss Home Improvement. 😎
I don't think the switch is necessary just need an outlet with constant power and a whip that you plug into the outlet and leave plugged in. Need to service it just unplug it.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs maybe not todays code but it is done that way in my residence and I didn’t do it or have it done that way! 🧐 pretty convenient to me though now I’m looking for battery options 🤨
My 90% furnace is GFCI protected because the condensate pump plugs into the outlet…. I wanted to do this upgrade but don’t know if it’s allowable by code but I can’t find anything to reinforce it or not. Anyone have any insight?
crazy that it's regularly pulling about 1200 watts. My space heater pulls 1500 watts and most likely doesn't move as much heat as that unit lol. I may have to look into a more energy efficient heater. Up in the north it is brutal. tonight it's 44 and gonna get down to 38 and we aren't in winter yet. winters can feel like 10 degrees F. That power station is cool btw.
@johnnybroughton ouch true...but the tradeoff is that unlike a space heater needing to be left on for hours, a well insulated home's heater like this one may only need and hour or two to be heated sufficiently with an energy saver option/thermostat
Overall the video is a very good job but we need to clear up a bit of confusion on the break off fin and jumper wire. I went back and reviewed the Leviton installation instructions and there's an error in the graphics on page #2. On page #1, it says CAUTION: Breakoff fin should be removed ONLY when installing for separate feed (2 circuit) operation. However, when one goes to page #2 of the instructions, it says to break off the fin for COMMON FEED Single-pole switch controls grounded outlet. Now go to the link for the Leviton "How To" video at 2:50 for this use case and it doesn't specify to break off the fin. The video is here ruclips.net/video/gJpS0-5JQgU/видео.html. Thus the verbiage is correct at the start of the instructions and agrees with the video. The graphic showing the fin break off for the COMMON FEED Single-pole switch controlling the grounded outlet is INCORRECT. Here's a video by another content creator in which the same combo switch is used and he does not break off the fin ruclips.net/video/cSXVeUg7L0k/видео.html. I looked at the Eaton TR293W combo switch and YES the instructions specify to break off the fin and put a jumper in - but the switch configuration is different than the Leviton used here. Bottom line - it is unnecessary to break off the fin and install a jumper for this combo switch and use case. Just watch the two videos I cite above, and you'll be fine. I'm an engineer (BSME, MSME) with 42 years of experience.
It was a bit hard to follow without wiring diagrams but… Wouldn’t this setup feed power back to the panel when you use the backup battery? Thus you would then be feeding power back to the line which is very bad
No. The portable battery supplies power only via the black plug/cord. When power goes out, you unplug that cord from the outlet, severing the only connection to your home. The battery powers the furnace and nothing else. No risk.
Scott @EverydayHomeRepairs, why did you connect the green ground wire of the house wiring inside the furnace instead of on the green ground screw on the outlet/switch combo. The power cord also has its own ground prong and wire, and you also connected it to the furnace and house wiring.
I live in northern MN and simply do not trust any battery to hold up to running a furnace up here for any serious length of time in the dead of winter, so I just bought a 24K BTU kerosene heater and a couple of sealed jugs of fuel and tucked it away in the attic. It was about the same price as a low-end car battery.
I’m half a mile from the ocean. Ocean temp is 57-73 all year so keeps every day mild. Used the ac for one week this summer. Rarely gets above 85. Half the homes here don’t have ac. But the big downside is homes are $1200 per square foot. :-(
This is really not a good way to do this. Use the commercial switch & male plug deal, or for 1/2 that 100.00 price get a 2 pole double throw switch, a pig tail & wire it right
Make sure to open the circuit breaker if you do connect the alternate power source. Otherwise, you back feed into the power company's lines outside the house and energize their transformer(s) on the high side, possibly causing electrocution to a lineman. Happened to someone I know who suffered severe burns and had to be transported out of state to a burn center.
I was also initially concerned about that "suicide cord" issue too, but his AC cord ONLY goes to the load (furnace). When unplugged from the combo receptacle, there is no connection going back to the panel/breaker...
There are multiple ways to wire up that kind of switch/outlet. No need to break the tab in this case. Even easier would be to install a regular receptacle and just unplug the extension cord when needed. ruclips.net/video/gJpS0-5JQgU/видео.htmlsi=MjHue279ktewLtEp
"it pulled 2000 watts". You attached a 15 amp plug, no? Isnt that intended for a max of 1800 watts, and nominally less than that? Shouldn't it have a 20 amp (or greater) male plug? It appears the battery you're using has 20 amp female outlets
Very brief, mild power spikes won't generally trip the breaker and the plug being 15amp or 20amp is really irrelevant unless the circuit is on 20amp (still mostly irrelevant but for code you would need 20amp rated plug if the breaker is 20amp (and the wire 12 gauge)). 15amp circuits run for gas HVAC system is common as you are mostly just running a fan. Remember the risk of the load is about melting things. Brief, small spike isn't going to heat things up, sustained load is. As for 15amp rating, the max sustained you should run is 1440wats. Circuits shouldn't have sustained load more than 80% of the circuit. It is why standard home appliances are 12amp devices, not 15amp.
Please do not make dangeroud DYI halve ass wiring methods. A plug &/or cord must NEVER be used to replace permanent eiring on a fixed appliance. They make a fsirly in expensive switch that is hard wired.
I do not like this idea at all. Another family member without your skills would have no idea what this is. The on/off switch looks like any other switch and once the extension cord is removed those prongs would be live under normal power. To do something similar to this for your main panel box requires the metal plate to keep the lineman safe but there is nothing here to keep kids or others safe from the extension cord that looks just like any other extension cord that once removed from an outlet has no power in it.
Thanks for the feedback. When the cord is removed the prongs will not be live as the cord is plugged into the furnace side. So no chance of backfeeding from an alternative power source to the grid.
The plug has no power on it, it's just feeding the furnace, like a plug on a toaster. The power comes from the outlet and the switch is like a normal emergency switch on a furnace. It's like plugging some appliance into an outlet or plugging it into an extension cord from your generator when the power is out. There's no connection between them.
Great video. More and more of these battery units are coming available and consequently lowering the price somewhat. Nice that you show what the power draw of a typical furnace is and how long it’ll power the furnace for. 55 minutes won’t help very much so it imperative you get the correct unit for what you want to power & for what duration.
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14-Gauge Extension Cord (6 ft) - geni.us/FzQmE
Light Switch / Outlet Combo - geni.us/KNFb
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Thank you
I made this same modification in my two previous houses in SE Michigan in the mid-90's and early 2000's. We were plagued with frequent multiday power outages during the winter - this saved me many times.
Scott, I have learned a ton from your channel and have used so many of your videos to help with my DIY. I know this isn't much but wanted to send my thanks from North Carolina. Appreciate you sir .Thanks!
Hey James, thanks so much for the support. I really appreciate it and hopefully I can continue to help you with your DIY needs in the future. Take care 👍
No need to remove the tab or jump. By reversing the wiring (hot line wire to hot load terminal), you were already ensuring that the switch controlled the receptacle. Easy to demonstrate with continuity test.
You are 100% correct. I found an error in the Leviton graphics on page#2 for the instructions and this probably caused the confusion. I explain in a post above. Kind regards
Thanks. You are a class act. The DIY HVAC guy is great also.
Just got one of those screw drivers for my electrical work kit. Very handy. I sometimes forget all the bits it has and catch myself going for a different tool then I remember it has it.
I installed an EZ Gen transfer switch. It makes it much easier
Those are nice 👍
And code compliant. This method is not compliant since most manufacturers require the unit be hardwired.
I have built something very similar but solved a problem they didn't address early on with the EZ setup. I actually have two - one for downstrairs furnace and the other for upstairs. Running furnaces off a Champion 2500 watt inverter. Hasn't failed me yet. As long as both units don't kick on at the same time, it's all good. Will *never* have a repeat of the 2021 Texas ice storm power outgages again. Initially I've got 6 propane (BBQ sytle) tanks, and if I run out, have 40 gallons of gas in my transfer tank on my truck.
I did something similar years ago but did not use a switch. I figured just pulling the plug was a good disconnect.
I think I might need to watch this one about a half dozen times. Our hot air furnace is in a mobile home.
And the Delta Pro makes a good chair too. 😁
That was awesome. Always look forward to your videos.
Love it!
Thanks!!
I live in central Maine and it can get very cold here. I want to be able to plug the oil-fired boiler into a 2,000 watt power station if I lose power. Can you show us how to set that up? Even if I hire an electrician to do the work, I like to understand it. I’ve installed a few receptacles and a new circuit but I want to be sure it’s done correctly and safely which is why I want to understand the job. I live near a hospital so my loss of electricity is usually short but it can go way below zero here.
I love your videos. Glad you achieved a million followers. You deserve it.
I have a fireplace insert with a plenum chamber above it. At the top of that plenum chamber are two 8" standpipes which are plumbed into my hot air return. Just above the fireplace is a 36" long, 8" grate for air intake to the plenum chamber. When I get a fire going the air inside the plenum chamber gets hot (obviously) and rises, pulling in replacement air through the grate. This forces hot air through the return duct and eventually through the heating ducts. There is no electricity required, just a normal fire in the fireplace. No power station needed for heat, but I do own several for basic needs during an outage.
Funny thing about this is that when my house was built in the '80s, the plug-in cord was apparently legal/code. (There were two furnaces in the house, both wired with a plug to an outlet. Of course this is Albuquerque, so who knows...) When I had one replaced, it had to be hardwired per current code. So, this is sort of reverting to old code.
Best teacher in RUclips land!
Great lessons, well taught! Thank you!
In short you're converting the furnace to a plug-in appliance.
Believe it or not, though expensive, there is (or was, I have one installed) a double pull, double through, center off, switch that does this easily. I have it as the switch between my line voltage and my generator. Basically a transfer switch before home transfer switches were made.
Two other commenters beat me to it, but I’ll ask the same question anyway: what was the point of breaking the tab only to essentially replace it with a jumper wire?
So that when the power goes out, remove the jumper, and it powers only the furnace, doesn't backfeed into the whole house
@@MegaSuperEnrique ruclips.net/video/gJpS0-5JQgU/видео.htmlsi=MjHue279ktewLtEp
@@MegaSuperEnriquethat’s not what Willp4139 was asking. He’s talking about the jumper on the switch/ receptacle that he broke off and then made a jumper for. Which is a step that was not needed since the switch was fed from the load side.
I think the electricity flow in the tab is not controlled by the switch. It always flows via tab if we connect the hot to the black screw terminal. If we break the tab, and add a jumper, we can control the flow via the switch.
@@jineeshpr The tab is the same exact thing as a jumper. He fed the wrong (load) side of the switch…
A neutral ground bonding plug should never be used in your home. These are only for recreational vehicles under certain conditions. Improper use can cause shocks, fires, and equipment damage. You are essentially sharing the return path of your neutral potential with your equipment ground.
I'm confused, why did you break off the tab just to replace it with a jumper wire? Or am I not understanding how this outlet switch combo thing works? Does the tab connect the two screws on the same side of the outlet, or does it connect to the hot on the other side? If that's the case, why not just swap the power in and switch power out wires?
This threw me too. But after some research, the tab doesnt connect the switch to the plug. It connects the plug to the hot, always on side of the switch. Break the tab to make it so the plug isn't attached to the hot side of the switch. Connect the terminals with the jumper and now you have the hot going into the top terminal, through the switch, down the jumper to the plug at the bottom.
The tab broke the connection to the line side gold screw that would make the outlet powered as always on. Breaking the tab then cuts the power and then connecting to the single pole switch screw terminal allows you to control the outlet power with the switch.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Scott please take another look at this. The top right terminal of those outlets is the normal line in side. You put the hot line in onto the top left screw terminal which is technically the load side of that switch. There was no need to break the tab. Leviton has a video explaining this. It’s in another comment
@@EverydayHomeRepairs ruclips.net/video/gJpS0-5JQgU/видео.htmlsi=K8pFevQootYUdFMo
@@EverydayHomeRepairsThat's true if you connected power to the line side with both screws, but you connected the power to the other (switched ) side. That uses the switch to control power to the two screws and the outlet as well, with the tab in place.
You need a video explaining how to : If you dont have an on off switch at the furnace thanks.
Question: Does the furnace/ac power also supply the needed energy for the thermostat and how would one verify same?
I'm getting closer to getting around to this. The startup amps is concerning me for my 2000/3000 W surge inverter. The inverter could not handle a gas dryer startup.
I don't understand the point of breaking off the tab on the hot side of the switch/outlet combo then essentially replacing that tab with the short length of black wire. You broke the connection then essentially repaired it, so what is the point of even bothering to break it in the first place?
Yea this needs clarification you lost us
With the tab in place, the outlet is always "on." By breaking the tab and adding a jumper, the switch now controls the outlet. You'd leave the tab on if you want the switch to control, for example, a light while having the outlet always hot.
@@tckoppang this is not correct. The line side of that fixture is the top right terminal. He is wiring it with the line in on the normal load terminal on purpose. The tab connects the two terminals on the right hand side and so does the jumper wire. There was no need to break the tab
@@chuckb4375 I would highly recommend everyone pull up the wiring diagram for this specific switch. There is no internal bus. And there was no need to break the tab
@@Art-jw8ho I couldn't find Slater combo switch specs, but I think you're right. Thanks! I deleted my reply...
Wait, didnt that tab you broke off act as the jumper wire that you later connected??
I had the same question. I have no doubt this guy is hitting his forehead with his palm after watching the edit. But he had to publish it anyway. He's a smart dude and admits any mistake or errors in thought on subsequent videos.
Yeah, it's the same as if he left the tab there.
I thought the outlet was always hot unless you broke that tab off?
I think the electricity flow in the tab is not controlled by the switch. It always flows via tab if we connect the hot to the black screw terminal. If we break the tab, and add a jumper, we can control the flow via the switch.
@@jineeshpr The switch component actually has a defined source side and defined load side. The source is tied in with the hot on the side with the tab. This is because it is designed to provide both switch and outlet functions independently. If your outlet is your load, you are technically supposed to break the tab and jumper a wire across and down from the load side. But since the switch doesn't care which way is which, it all works the same by keeping the tab and wiring your source of the switch to its Load screw. It does mean you are putting a screw with a Hot wire mm's from the screw with the Neutral wire, which is fine but dicey.
Scott scaring us about winter survival again
This is actually brilliant!! Thank you! Added to my queue of improvements.
My sense is that the steel connection between conduit and box was a legal way to ground an electrical box until a couple of decades ago when they made people bring a copper ground wire into every box.
Depends on the armored cable type. MC cable has a ground wire and the armor is not rated for use as a equipment ground. AC cable has no ground wire only a small internal bonding strip. This cable grounds through the armor. EMT can also ground through the metal pipe some electricians will want to run a ground wire but it is not a code requirement.
fantastic. Smart and easy to follow.
So I feel that in some areas that is not code and to do it correctly better do your home work and Y you cut that tap , ???
I installed an EZ Generator Switch. Website is just all 3 words concatenated together. Some modern furnace electronics will not work if the ground is not proper. EZ Generator Switch wiring can support either bonded neutral generators or floating neutral generators to ensure that the electronics work properly.
Could you do a video about adding power to a security camera when the closest power is from a light controlled by a switch far away?
Is your furnace blower motor AC ? That was a lot of startup power.
Does this bypass the thermostat ignition and pretty much turn it into an on/off system?
Just mark the breaker in the pnl install and connect the generator at the electrical panel using the generator approved devices
Those plastic tabs are not preventing the grounding of your outlet. They’re just holding the screws in. The rule of thumb is if there is a ground screw, ground it. It’s overkill, but that is the beauty of electrical safety.
dont get why you take the metal tab out but then run a jumper wire to both terminals. Isn't it the same thing?
I've seen this before and like the idea, but really what is the purpose of the switch when you need to unplug it from the outlet to plug it into the power station anyway?
Agreed. I think the only benefit is you can kill power to the furnace to work on the thermostat or unit itself without unplugging. But I agree.
It's part of the national electric code meant to protect the maintenance guys from getting electrocuted if the breaker is switched on by someone else far away
Great video. Thank you for sharing
I do find it interesting when people express alarm that we're going electric-only in MN without realizing that their gas furnace without a generator also doesn't work when the power goes out. This video is a nice option for them to fix the issue they don't realize they have.
Our approach has been to basically get our house closer to passive house levels of insulation and air sealing, so if power goes out we won't have severe issues before power comes back on.
Beware...CO/Smoke detectors are wired into the same circuit as the furnace and usually within 10ft of the furnace. Disconnecting the annoying detector also shuts off the source of CO. Modifying your furnace with a cord like this does not back feed power to the detector. If it did you would have to shut off the furnace breaker. Get a licensed electrician to do this...please. They make dedicated furnace transfer switches that go in next to the panel.
Isn't one of the exposed prongs of the extension cord hot when the switch is on? If you pull the extension cord plug out of the receptacle with the switch on and power supplied somebody could get shocked.
If this is true then an external cover and some warning labels seem in order.
Nope, the extension cord is on the furnace side so when it is unplugged that cuts the source of power.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I see. You converted the furnace power supply to a cord supply, and the switched receptacle just coincidentally was mounted on the side of the furnace. Didn't get it until now.
You could even run a 50 foot extension cord out to a truck's inverter. Very versatile. Thanks.
I was confused at first but had to draw it out on paper to get it haha. The extension cord when plugged into the outlet, makes the connection from the furnace to the house breaker panel. When you unplug the cord it basically disconnects the furnace from the house panel. Then you plug it into the backup power source and it feeds only the furnace. In normal operation, the switch acts the same as before, just as a safety off switch if working on the furnace.
If I plug in a generator via 1200watt cord to this outlet, do I need to worry about whether either (outlet &/or generator) are bonded neutral or floating neutral?
You should ground your generator to be safe.
@@kamX-rz4uy Yes. Roger that.
What was the point of the outlet?
I would pull a ground to that switch for sure.
It would be cleaner if you would’ve seperated the wires off of the extension cord inside the box but not 100% necessary .
Thanks for the feedback!
So there was nice metal conduit and metal box to protect supply wires going into the furnace. I like Scott's workmanship, but I wonder what NEC2023 would have to say about the idea of running a cheap unprotected 14g extension cord into the box thru knockout & clamp?
I think the main concern is that a furnace is required to be hard wired. I thought of doing this but instead just replaced the wire nuts with Wagos so that if there's an extended power outage I can easily disconnect the wires from switch and connect the extension cord. Not as simple but same end result and then the other 99+% of the time it's code compliant. Thankfully I've only had to do it once in the last few years.
@@kamX-rz4uy That's an interesting idea! Do you keep that unconnected extension cord near your furnace always ready to go, and secured with cable clamp close to box to prevent accidental pull out from Wagos?
@@chuckb4375 It's near the furnace in a bag marked something like generator furnace cord. I didn't use a cable clamp, just had slack in the wires and cord and no one else was allowed near the furnace for safety. It would be a good idea to secure it though.
My furnace has a fuse and switch combo in the 2x4 handy box. What do I need to do with this?
Make a check list and post it. . .
Check list for the install process or for the supplies needed?
FYI,ITS CALLED A LOCK ROTOR AMPS....HIGH TO START UP THE MOTOR = THE HIGHER AMPS THEN LEVELS OUT ONE THE MOTOR HAS STARTED UP AND RUNNING...
My furnace has a cord that is plugged into a receptacle. I just need to run an extension cord from my portable gas generator to the furnace. Unplug the furnace and plug it into the generator until the power comes back on.
Not legal to ever use a cord in place of permanent wires. Good luck trying to collect on insurance if this causes a fire.
@JohnThomas-lq5qp site the code, my friend.
Odd that you removed the tab then installed a jumper wire that serves the same purpose.
Is this code approved?
Can this be done for a well pump?
Sure
You didn't include the LINK for the YELLOW Neutral-to-Ground Plug Adapter
Look on RUclips for how to make a bonding plug for a generator.
....you removed the tab and then replaced it with a jumper wire for no reason. The terminal tou connected the "hot" to is normally the "load" terminal. The purpose of the tab is to keep the switch and outlet on separate circuits, only if you choose. By putting the hot wire onto the terminal which is typically meant for the load, you made the switch control the outlet by default. Breaking the tab was totally unnecessary and putting the wire on there literally is just taking place of the tab. Think about it for a moment and it should make sense.
I have been watching your videos from the beginning. This one seemed rushed and your explaniations were a bit coudy. First, cutting the tab made no sense thinking of a regular outlet. Upon reviewing a second time i see the brass ribbon going from the outlet to the left side to the load screw. Then it made sense to cut it. This was not explained. I am about at your level of electrical knowledge so then i understood what is going on. You usually are great at explaining, that got missed. Second, the little paper tab holding the screws, it is really unnecessary to remove them for grounding. The screw itself bonds the unit to the box bypassing the paper. For me leaving the paper there saves me potentially hours of frustration looking for the screws when the fall out of the unit and roll under the furnace. Everyone has an off day. It is like you had to hurry and get done and post this so you did not miss Home Improvement. 😎
I don't think the switch is necessary just need an outlet with constant power and a whip that you plug into the outlet and leave plugged in. Need to service it just unplug it.
Yeah, I am wondering if that would pass code. 🤔
@@EverydayHomeRepairs maybe not todays code but it is done that way in my residence and I didn’t do it or have it done that way! 🧐 pretty convenient to me though now I’m looking for battery options 🤨
My 90% furnace is GFCI protected because the condensate pump plugs into the outlet…. I wanted to do this upgrade but don’t know if it’s allowable by code but I can’t find anything to reinforce it or not. Anyone have any insight?
Code ECM Section 422.16(A) is a bit unclear - it says it is a violation, then it gives requirements for an alternate installation with flexible cord!
From watching other videos it appears you jumped the wrong two hot terminals.
crazy that it's regularly pulling about 1200 watts. My space heater pulls 1500 watts and most likely doesn't move as much heat as that unit lol. I may have to look into a more energy efficient heater. Up in the north it is brutal. tonight it's 44 and gonna get down to 38 and we aren't in winter yet. winters can feel like 10 degrees F. That power station is cool btw.
1200W plus the natural gas it's burning.
@johnnybroughton ouch true...but the tradeoff is that unlike a space heater needing to be left on for hours, a well insulated home's heater like this one may only need and hour or two to be heated sufficiently with an energy saver option/thermostat
Overall the video is a very good job but we need to clear up a bit of confusion on the break off fin and jumper wire. I went back and reviewed the Leviton installation instructions and there's an error in the graphics on page #2. On page #1, it says CAUTION: Breakoff fin should be removed ONLY when installing for separate feed (2 circuit) operation. However, when one goes to page #2 of the instructions, it says to break off the fin for COMMON FEED Single-pole switch controls grounded outlet. Now go to the link for the Leviton "How To" video at 2:50 for this use case and it doesn't specify to break off the fin. The video is here ruclips.net/video/gJpS0-5JQgU/видео.html. Thus the verbiage is correct at the start of the instructions and agrees with the video. The graphic showing the fin break off for the COMMON FEED Single-pole switch controlling the grounded outlet is INCORRECT. Here's a video by another content creator in which the same combo switch is used and he does not break off the fin ruclips.net/video/cSXVeUg7L0k/видео.html. I looked at the Eaton TR293W combo switch and YES the instructions specify to break off the fin and put a jumper in - but the switch configuration is different than the Leviton used here. Bottom line - it is unnecessary to break off the fin and install a jumper for this combo switch and use case. Just watch the two videos I cite above, and you'll be fine. I'm an engineer (BSME, MSME) with 42 years of experience.
It was a bit hard to follow without wiring diagrams but…
Wouldn’t this setup feed power back to the panel when you use the backup battery? Thus you would then be feeding power back to the line which is very bad
No. The portable battery supplies power only via the black plug/cord. When power goes out, you unplug that cord from the outlet, severing the only connection to your home. The battery powers the furnace and nothing else. No risk.
@@nathanscandella6075 gotcha this makes sense now. it was a bit hard to follow in the video
Scott @EverydayHomeRepairs, why did you connect the green ground wire of the house wiring inside the furnace instead of on the green ground screw on the outlet/switch combo. The power cord also has its own ground prong and wire, and you also connected it to the furnace and house wiring.
Forget the switch. Just install an outlet.
Having the switch is a code requirement, whether you have this “backup” outlet or not
@@nathanscandella6075 CEC states "Suitable disconnecting means shall be provided for the branch circuit."
I live in northern MN and simply do not trust any battery to hold up to running a furnace up here for any serious length of time in the dead of winter, so I just bought a 24K BTU kerosene heater and a couple of sealed jugs of fuel and tucked it away in the attic. It was about the same price as a low-end car battery.
Make sure to take it out of the attic before summer, even in northern MN
I didn't appreciate you speeding up the wiring sequence. Why should we watch a how-to video that speeds up?
In my zip code the average low in January is 51. So if power goes out I put on a sweatshirt. 😁
And 101 in August?
lucky you ,how is your A/C bill
I’m half a mile from the ocean. Ocean temp is 57-73 all year so keeps every day mild. Used the ac for one week this summer. Rarely gets above 85. Half the homes here don’t have ac. But the big downside is homes are $1200 per square foot. :-(
This is really not a good way to do this. Use the commercial switch & male plug deal, or for 1/2 that 100.00 price get a 2 pole double throw switch, a pig tail & wire it right
Make sure to open the circuit breaker if you do connect the alternate power source. Otherwise, you back feed into the power company's lines outside the house and energize their transformer(s) on the high side, possibly causing electrocution to a lineman. Happened to someone I know who suffered severe burns and had to be transported out of state to a burn center.
I was also initially concerned about that "suicide cord" issue too, but his AC cord ONLY goes to the load (furnace). When unplugged from the combo receptacle, there is no connection going back to the panel/breaker...
🤗THX SCOTT
For very timely information 💚💚💚
@@chuckb4375 Oh, good, thanks. It was hard to see exactly what all was going on without a schematic of some sort. Glad that was taken into account.
There are multiple ways to wire up that kind of switch/outlet. No need to break the tab in this case. Even easier would be to install a regular receptacle and just unplug the extension cord when needed.
ruclips.net/video/gJpS0-5JQgU/видео.htmlsi=MjHue279ktewLtEp
"it pulled 2000 watts". You attached a 15 amp plug, no? Isnt that intended for a max of 1800 watts, and nominally less than that? Shouldn't it have a 20 amp (or greater) male plug? It appears the battery you're using has 20 amp female outlets
Very brief, mild power spikes won't generally trip the breaker and the plug being 15amp or 20amp is really irrelevant unless the circuit is on 20amp (still mostly irrelevant but for code you would need 20amp rated plug if the breaker is 20amp (and the wire 12 gauge)). 15amp circuits run for gas HVAC system is common as you are mostly just running a fan. Remember the risk of the load is about melting things. Brief, small spike isn't going to heat things up, sustained load is.
As for 15amp rating, the max sustained you should run is 1440wats. Circuits shouldn't have sustained load more than 80% of the circuit. It is why standard home appliances are 12amp devices, not 15amp.
Bless Your video moved too fast. You didn't show the cord plugged in. A sloppy video compared to your other videos
Although I am not too bright, I am bright enough to know to hire licensed professionals when dealing with building codes.
I normally don't dislike videos, especially yours, but since you broke the gold tab only to install a short jumper on both screws, I had to. Sorry
all too complex for the average homeowner
Please do not make dangeroud DYI halve ass wiring methods. A plug &/or cord must NEVER be used to replace permanent eiring on a fixed appliance. They make a fsirly in expensive switch that is hard wired.
This video is just a how to cause multiple non code complient things.....
I do not like this idea at all. Another family member without your skills would have no idea what this is. The on/off switch looks like any other switch and once the extension cord is removed those prongs would be live under normal power. To do something similar to this for your main panel box requires the metal plate to keep the lineman safe but there is nothing here to keep kids or others safe from the extension cord that looks just like any other extension cord that once removed from an outlet has no power in it.
Thanks for the feedback. When the cord is removed the prongs will not be live as the cord is plugged into the furnace side. So no chance of backfeeding from an alternative power source to the grid.
The plug has no power on it, it's just feeding the furnace, like a plug on a toaster. The power comes from the outlet and the switch is like a normal emergency switch on a furnace. It's like plugging some appliance into an outlet or plugging it into an extension cord from your generator when the power is out. There's no connection between them.
Great video. More and more of these battery units are coming available and consequently lowering the price somewhat. Nice that you show what the power draw of a typical furnace is and how long it’ll power the furnace for. 55 minutes won’t help very much so it imperative you get the correct unit for what you want to power & for what duration.
You really underestimated his knowledge and experience.
Not true