You are an inspiration Peter. There are many people who make the process of making Bonsai look so complicated and time consuming. I find those videos discouraging. Your videos are like a cool breeze, while hiking on a hot day, calming, refreshing and encourageing us, that we can do it. Thank you 😊😇
It seems like we had the same idea there. I started recording a video about creating instant juniper bonsai through layering a few weeks ago too. One day I will come to the uk, and maybe convince you to do a shared video,
Personally, I like to use black plastic over clear because black plastic has two advantages and one disadvantage. First, black plastic prevents light from hitting the roots -- the light acts like an inhibitor to root growth. Second, and this is more important depending on the time of year, the black plastic warms up, which speeds up the root development. It's like using a heat mat under germination trays. The drawback is you can't actually see the progress of the root development from the layer (and to a lesser degree, you can't troubleshoot for the sphagnum drying out). To get around this, wrap the layer in sphagnum and clear plastic just like Peter does in this video. After that, wrap black plastic around the clear, and tie it only at the top, forming a black skirt over the clear plastic. This gives you the advantages of using the black material, but allows you to still peek under it without disturbing the developing root ball.
Thanks! I genuinly thought the roots came from the cut away part, and that's where I put my spaghnum moss and ball.. Is this the way for junipers (because they have their root forming nobules in the stem) or is this the way for all air layering?
Hey Peter, I have two questions about these Juniper air layers that I don't think you've covered: 1) Does the bag need ventilation? I have been using ziplocs with a hole in the bottom so they don't have a good way of getting air. 2) Is your success rate relatively high? I am a big believer that the cut is the biggest factor of success. I always try to cut to the sapwood and remove the dark Cambium that surrounds it.
The bag should be air tight - if not - the moss will dry out. Just remove the bark up to the cambium - if you cut into the hardwood - they will be going too far and your air layer will die.
We plant it first in Sphagnum moss and then transfer to compost after another month , Sometimes we plant straight in a soft garden compost in pots of course .
Why dont you shape the future airlayering part into a bonsai as it grows before it is airlayered? Now you airlayer and then shape, instead of both at the same time. Two ready shaped bonsai in one go. My payment for this unleashing of productivity at the nursery shall be an airlayered bonsai which I shape at herons. I can fly over to the UK next week, if the master so wishes. Humble regards from SWE. The airlayering masterclass is the name of the method and theory.
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You are an inspiration Peter. There are many people who make the process of making Bonsai look so complicated and time consuming. I find those videos discouraging. Your videos are like a cool breeze, while hiking on a hot day, calming, refreshing and encourageing us, that we can do it. Thank you 😊😇
I try to make things less intimidating - glad you enjoy the videos.
I love hearing the rain on the greenhouse roof ! ☺️. It’s much better than the typical jetliners taking off at the airport 😂
One day I will have a nursery like this! Amazing video as always, I wont give up
It seems like we had the same idea there. I started recording a video about creating instant juniper bonsai through layering a few weeks ago too. One day I will come to the uk, and maybe convince you to do a shared video,
Onecof the best educational videos, thank you!
Always good viewing
Thx for sharing Peter 👍 😊
Thanks for your video and a lot of intrested information for me.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! 💯 I really appreciate these videos! I have several junipers in the ground that I would love to air layer.
Personally, I like to use black plastic over clear because black plastic has two advantages and one disadvantage. First, black plastic prevents light from hitting the roots -- the light acts like an inhibitor to root growth. Second, and this is more important depending on the time of year, the black plastic warms up, which speeds up the root development. It's like using a heat mat under germination trays. The drawback is you can't actually see the progress of the root development from the layer (and to a lesser degree, you can't troubleshoot for the sphagnum drying out). To get around this, wrap the layer in sphagnum and clear plastic just like Peter does in this video. After that, wrap black plastic around the clear, and tie it only at the top, forming a black skirt over the clear plastic. This gives you the advantages of using the black material, but allows you to still peek under it without disturbing the developing root ball.
Thanks!
I genuinly thought the roots came from the cut away part, and that's where I put my spaghnum moss and ball.. Is this the way for junipers (because they have their root forming nobules in the stem) or is this the way for all air layering?
Same for all types of trees -
First comment from Oaxaca!
Hey Peter, I have two questions about these Juniper air layers that I don't think you've covered:
1) Does the bag need ventilation? I have been using ziplocs with a hole in the bottom so they don't have a good way of getting air.
2) Is your success rate relatively high? I am a big believer that the cut is the biggest factor of success. I always try to cut to the sapwood and remove the dark Cambium that surrounds it.
The bag should be air tight - if not - the moss will dry out.
Just remove the bark up to the cambium - if you cut into the hardwood - they will be going too far and your air layer will die.
When is the best time of year to start a juniper air layer? Spring or summer?
Spring is best but with junipers - any time is fine because they are so easy to do.
hello, I would like to ask at what age can trees be grafted? especially on juniperus chinensis trees and Black pine kotobuki or senjumaru
thanks 🙏
Thanks Peter, what do you do after cutting of the air layer? Kind regards Ashwin
We plant it first in Sphagnum moss and then transfer to compost after another month , Sometimes we plant straight in a soft garden compost in pots of course .
Why dont you shape the future airlayering part into a bonsai as it grows before it is airlayered? Now you airlayer and then shape, instead of both at the same time.
Two ready shaped bonsai in one go.
My payment for this unleashing of productivity at the nursery shall be an airlayered bonsai which I shape at herons.
I can fly over to the UK next week, if the master so wishes. Humble regards from SWE.
The airlayering masterclass is the name of the method and theory.
You are welcome to come to volunteer.
What kind of rootingpowder you use? I've been looking for years now and i couldnt find anything that works... 😐
Any brand is OK but must be fresh.
Hi, which root powder would you recommend? Thanks
Most commercial ones are OK
@@peterchan3100 thanks Peter. I’ll search around
I would love to know what the lovely music in the outros of your videos is
😊
💚🌱
That air layer branch is so thick and too straight. How could u make it interesting after removed it?
Wait and see.
when to sow juniper seeds..i mean season
👍👌👌🙂
A dull blade is a dangerous blade.🤔🤔🤔
🥰🥰👍