I never understand why anyone gives instructional videos of this nature a thumbs down. The information provided is an amazing archive of knowledge that is absolutely fascinating. Thank you Mr Pete.
your videos are invaluable! in 1967 jr hi shop class,i was first introduced to the SB 9a . in the navy, on submarines, we had a 9a on board. Gunsmithing school in 1982, once again, the 9a was my close friend. 2019, i finally found my own 9a. your videos were a godsend as i completly stripped it down, and rebuilt it!....many thanks!
Thank You Lyle....I have an original 10 K gap bed South Bend I bought in South San Francisco 40 plus years ago...I was advised at the time to buy a less expensive import...I am so glad I did not...As always I look forward to your presentations...Jeff
It's good to know that such a worn bed can still be quite functional. I'll be watching to see just how bad the accuracy has been affected. Valuable info to have when such a machine comes up for sale. Thanks for the series.
Another great video. Even though it might be like putting a brocaded saddle on a donkey I hope you go ahead and paint it while it is apart. After all that work it might as well look good when you get it clean. Thanks for the video.
askjerry I recently took apart a cabinet model of the same lathe. Not too bad in fact. The parts are mostly of manageable size and can be easily cleaned in a parts washer. Plus those lathe has a rather intricate wick system that delivers oil, that needs replacing too, especially on older ones
At some point I'll probably need to do that... I didn't know about it until I watched one of these videos... not sure when I'll get the time / patience to do that. Not going to be anytime soon I'm afraid.
Looks much better - I wouldn't have been able to resist a quick tape job on the machined areas and a quick spray job - keep it from rusting if nothing else, and also get the satisfaction of seeing it with a new look-lol
All things considered, it doesn't look that bad. I've seen some lathes that had a visible dip i the ways. Either way, it's going to be interesting to see the cuts later on.
It just occurred to me that you may want to "clock" the handwheel when you reassemble. You will probably want the handwheel in the most comfortable position when the saddle is in its commonest location. [[a few minutes pass]] I just did a little checking on my SB9 and maybe it wouldn't make much difference. The carriage only moves about an inch per full revolution of the handwheel. I suspect that the "commonest location" is wider than that. For the record, when the carriage bumps against the headstock, the knob on the handle is at about the 11:00 or 11:30 position on my particular SB9 (which I THINK has never has the apron removed; it's been owned by my dad or me since it came from the factory). At least it has never been cleaned using compressed air. My dad never had a full-time air-compressor, and I know better (he probably did, too).
would you meaning" me doing the swap ". consider changing the ways on a clapped out lathe ??? i have found a possible canadate .... please reply soon . THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
Hi Mr. Pete. Really enjoy your videos. I am looking at buying a 13×40 standard modern lathe to restore and use for my projects. It has hardened ways that have noticable wear close to head stock about a 64th " on front rail bump and some perpendicular movement on tailstock quil. Is this fixable or is this a parts lathe? Best regards Mike
How difficult would it be to get the gear with the missing tooth off of the spindle? Someone out there might be looking for a gear cutting project to try their hand on.
Watch this 2 part video of mine. MACHINE SHOP TIPS #130 Repairing a Logan Lathe Gear Box PART 1 tubalcain . Although its for a logan, it might still help
diggerop It's not all that bad. Those lathe has plain spindle bearings, so a simple puller does the job elegantly. I've fixed mine by "planting" the blank of the teeth with silver solder, and then index and recut the tooth... maybe Mr.Pete could show that process too!
The lathe may not be worth the cost of a new gear, but if someone has time, material and machine and is looking for such a project, why not give them a chance to speak up?
All right, but do you think it is possible to spray metal on bed ways to get the original dimension after regrinding? I'm watching all videos!!! Best regards
It's just a shame that they didn't make these machines so you could swap the end of the bed to mount the headstock I've often thought about this you could get a lot more life out of these guys of course you get a ton of life out of them just because they were so well made. That's often thought about trying to scrape in my Logan but like you said it's hardly worth it because it's probably so far out I'd have to have a ground first. This brings me to a question how do you judge the condition I should say the w a r e condition of the ways I always take the saddle and make it slide in contact but slide freely at the far end of the machine and then drag it by hand to the other and where the headstock would be and feel how loose it gets when it starts approaching the headstock I mean I have seen lathe out there in the field that I didn't end up buying simply because they were too expensive that had very very little ware, and I have seen them that are just terrible like a millimeter out unusable! I know a lot of professionals will use a granite straight edge I was just wondering how you judge them was there a way or just feeling them and knowing how bad they are and trying to deal with it LOL
I enjoy watching your videos... But too much content is done "off camera"... This is convenient for YOU, but for us the viewer, we don't get the full scope of the process. It appears that you are making the video not for the education of us who may be interested in rebuilding a SouthBend lathe, but just for the sake of making a video to add to your collection on RUclips... Sorry to be somewhat critical, but your asked for feedback...!
I don't agree. Mr. Pete puts his videos together just right IMO. He's showing us what we need to see to get the point he's trying to make. Not that I'm from the ADD crowd, I like his videos; the longer the better. But who needs to see him remove all four screws from the rack?
I never understand why anyone gives instructional videos of this nature a thumbs down. The information provided is an amazing archive of knowledge that is absolutely fascinating. Thank you Mr Pete.
your videos are invaluable! in 1967 jr hi shop class,i was first introduced to the SB 9a . in the navy, on submarines, we had a 9a on board. Gunsmithing school in 1982, once again, the 9a was my close friend. 2019, i finally found my own 9a. your videos were a godsend as i completly stripped it down, and rebuilt it!....many thanks!
Thank you, so glad I helped
Thank You Lyle....I have an original 10 K gap bed South Bend I bought in South San Francisco 40 plus years ago...I was advised at the time to buy a less expensive import...I am so glad I did not...As always I look forward to your presentations...Jeff
Thank you
It's good to know that such a worn bed can still be quite functional. I'll be watching to see just how bad the accuracy has been affected. Valuable info to have when such a machine comes up for sale. Thanks for the series.
Another great video. Even though it might be like putting a brocaded saddle on a donkey I hope you go ahead and paint it while it is apart. After all that work it might as well look good when you get it clean. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing your adventures and knowledge!
I'm amazed at how far down you took this machine. I think I would have been too nervous... afraid that I wouldn't get it back together again!
I'm always nervous
askjerry I recently took apart a cabinet model of the same lathe. Not too bad in fact. The parts are mostly of manageable size and can be easily cleaned in a parts washer. Plus those lathe has a rather intricate wick system that delivers oil, that needs replacing too, especially on older ones
At some point I'll probably need to do that... I didn't know about it until I watched one of these videos... not sure when I'll get the time / patience to do that. Not going to be anytime soon I'm afraid.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Looks much better - I wouldn't have been able to resist a quick tape job on the machined areas and a quick spray job - keep it from rusting if nothing else, and also get the satisfaction of seeing it with a new look-lol
Mighty fine Mr Pete
good job
All things considered, it doesn't look that bad. I've seen some lathes that had a visible dip i the ways. Either way, it's going to be interesting to see the cuts later on.
Thanks for sharing sir...
It just occurred to me that you may want to "clock" the handwheel when you reassemble. You will probably want the handwheel in the most comfortable position when the saddle is in its commonest location. [[a few minutes pass]] I just did a little checking on my SB9 and maybe it wouldn't make much difference. The carriage only moves about an inch per full revolution of the handwheel. I suspect that the "commonest location" is wider than that.
For the record, when the carriage bumps against the headstock, the knob on the handle is at about the 11:00 or 11:30 position on my particular SB9 (which I THINK has never has the apron removed; it's been owned by my dad or me since it came from the factory). At least it has never been cleaned using compressed air. My dad never had a full-time air-compressor, and I know better (he probably did, too).
thank so much for your info
Thanks
would you meaning" me doing the swap ". consider changing the ways on a clapped out lathe ??? i have found a possible canadate .... please reply soon . THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
Give it a try
Hi Mr. Pete.
Really enjoy your videos. I am looking at buying a 13×40 standard modern lathe to restore and use for my projects. It has hardened ways that have noticable wear close to head stock about a 64th " on front rail bump and some perpendicular movement on tailstock quil. Is this fixable or is this a parts lathe? Best regards Mike
Probably not fixable
@@mrpete222 ok. Then what's your take on the current Chinese offerings, say a Precision Mathews 14×40?
Do you think you could grind and scrape the ways and the saddle if you wanted?
No
What happen with tips #330 to this?
How difficult would it be to get the gear with the missing tooth off of the spindle? Someone out there might be looking for a gear cutting project to try their hand on.
Watch this 2 part video of mine. MACHINE SHOP TIPS #130 Repairing a Logan Lathe Gear Box PART 1 tubalcain . Although its for a logan, it might still help
diggerop It's not all that bad. Those lathe has plain spindle bearings, so a simple puller does the job elegantly. I've fixed mine by "planting" the blank of the teeth with silver solder, and then index and recut the tooth... maybe Mr.Pete could show that process too!
The lathe may not be worth the cost of a new gear, but if someone has time, material and machine and is looking for such a project, why not give them a chance to speak up?
Hi, what do you think about metal spraying on the ways before regrinding to get the original dimensions ?
Best regards
I have watched metal spraying being done on chef's. I have never done it myself. I do remember it is terribly noisy
All right, but do you think it is possible to spray metal on bed ways to get the original dimension after regrinding? I'm watching all videos!!!
Best regards
Have a look into Turcite application.
The reason you won't paint it?
He doesn't enjoy painting. Or as the old phrase goes " he and paint don't get along" ; )
You could probably get the ways, etc., ground and tried for less than $4,000. :>)
It's just a shame that they didn't make these machines so you could swap the end of the bed to mount the headstock I've often thought about this you could get a lot more life out of these guys of course you get a ton of life out of them just because they were so well made. That's often thought about trying to scrape in my Logan but like you said it's hardly worth it because it's probably so far out I'd have to have a ground first.
This brings me to a question how do you judge the condition I should say the w a r e condition of the ways I always take the saddle and make it slide in contact but slide freely at the far end of the machine and then drag it by hand to the other and where the headstock would be and feel how loose it gets when it starts approaching the headstock I mean I have seen lathe out there in the field that I didn't end up buying simply because they were too expensive that had very very little ware, and I have seen them that are just terrible like a millimeter out unusable!
I know a lot of professionals will use a granite straight edge I was just wondering how you judge them was there a way or just feeling them and knowing how bad they are and trying to deal with it LOL
Sometimes they are so worn you can feel it with your fingernail
I enjoy watching your videos... But too much content is done "off camera"... This is convenient for YOU, but for us the viewer, we don't get the full scope of the process. It appears that you are making the video not for the education of us who may be interested in rebuilding a SouthBend lathe, but just for the sake of making a video to add to your collection on RUclips... Sorry to be somewhat critical, but your asked for feedback...!
I don't agree. Mr. Pete puts his videos together just right IMO. He's showing us what we need to see to get the point he's trying to make.
Not that I'm from the ADD crowd, I like his videos; the longer the better. But who needs to see him remove all four screws from the rack?