Really satisfying to see the metal in the "just before epoxy stage".... been watching since the beginning and continue to learn something every installment. I am about to disassemble the 37 after most of a year fitting fenders, doors, ac, trunk, lights, etc. to get the car ready for epoxy primer. Thanks for sharing the journey!
Looking great Mark and the last thing I’m getting is tired of watching your step by step process on Ruby. That’s what I like the most about your videos.
Thanks David. There has been 66 videos so a lot of steps so far but we are making good progress and it should speed up a little once we get over this hurdle. I appreciate the nice comment and encouragement.
@FoothillPaintandFabrication Yes , I know exactly what you mean! I have taken many breaks from the Buick. Go to the lake or work around the farm. Give your brain something else to chew on. They're labors of love, but they are also hard work! Hope you can find a nice distraction.
@@mattsteffee Great advice Matt, thanks My distraction lately is a total gut of my sisters kitchen. Almost done so that will be nice. Once Ruby is in Epoxy I can take my foot off the gas a little.
Looks great Mark! So much work. I didn’t do the 220 DA sanding on most of Pops. I also used the conditioning tool (worked very well) and Duragold pads. Same process, though I believe your attention to detail exceeded mine! I’ll be forced to seam seal later because of the dampness up here. I think it’ll work out fine. Preventing surface rust took priority. Ruby will look so good. Thanks again for the videos. I always learn a ton.
Thanks Robert. That conditioning tool works great doesn't it? The DA was just to make me feel better and did help get some spots nothing else would. I will be applying seam sealer after the epoxy and DTM even though many say you can apply them to bare steel. I will be using 3M Urethane seam sealer on most of the car. If I were you I would use urethane as well. The old school solvent based sealers just don't compare to the urethane ones. The urethane sealers cure in the presence of moisture so you are covered there 😁
Guess im going to have to get one of surface conditioners my i65 impala needs this done now so i can spray it and the lemans i took over from my daughter going to need it soon so i can move on thanks mark
Thanks Chris. Christmas is just around the corner so maybe if you start dropping hints right now.... That thing worked better than I had hoped. It works pretty well stripping paint too but you have to watch your heat input into the panel so you don't warp anything.
Hi Mark such attention to detail love your work, how do you stop the bare metal from getting surface rust, where I live bare metal would have rust on it literally overnight
Thanks. I am blessed living in a dry climate but most of it comes from when the car was stripped. Once it was dipped to remove the paint it was then dipped to remove any rust and also treat the bare steel. They dip it in phosphoric acid which inhibits the flash rusting somehow. You can buy phosphoric wipes which I have had a lot of luck with as well. Here is a link to some from Summit but you should be able to buy them at your local automotive paint store. www.summitracing.com/parts/rlp-5003?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-paints-and-finishing&gclid=CjwKCAjw6c63BhAiEiwAF0EH1EPBv_mtKTwJrTK6e0Z0a757PPQ7ymzAUWBEJdSrc45xh0MbdiuJMhoCPcAQAvD_BwE
Mark, I would like to know more about your work history and the area where you live. When you get it on the road, could we see highlights of your area? Maybe some local car shows? Would love to see the GTO parked next to the 65 and the 50 pickup. What about Dave the mystery neighbor? 👍🚘
Hi Steve. I live in California in the foothills as you may have guessed. I will definitely show footage of Ruby on the road and at car shows and with other cars I have painted or built. We are a little bit away from that though. I will do a short about me on a video on of these weeks so you all know a little more about me. Dave is a car guy as well. We used to work together so that is how I know him. He has a 1950 Willy's Station Wagon he built over 7 years and is now working on a 1929 Model A. He lives just a few minutes from me and we help each other out all the time, go fishing together, drink beers and hang out too. He is very skilled and creative.
Hi, I love your work I was wondering, could you answer a question❓ I’m doing a frame off on my caprice, but the floor pans are rusty. Should I brace the body, take it off then do floor pan Or Should I do floors pan before Removing it from Frame❓I subbed also 💪🏽
HI and welcome to the channel. Is it a convertible? What year Caprice? Generally you want to do some bracing and replace the floor pans with the car off the frame so you can do a better job. Let me know the year and model and we can go from there. Is the rest of the car pretty sound? Will it be on a rotisserie or just stands?
Really satisfying to see the metal in the "just before epoxy stage".... been watching since the beginning and continue to learn something every installment. I am about to disassemble the 37 after most of a year fitting fenders, doors, ac, trunk, lights, etc. to get the car ready for epoxy primer. Thanks for sharing the journey!
Thanks Don. Great news on the progress. Looking forward to getting some update pics from you.
Looking great Mark and the last thing I’m getting is tired of watching your step by step process on Ruby. That’s what I like the most about your videos.
Thanks David. There has been 66 videos so a lot of steps so far but we are making good progress and it should speed up a little once we get over this hurdle.
I appreciate the nice comment and encouragement.
The only word I have is Awesome! Thank you for your time.
Thanks, she sure looks pretty all clean and prepped. This is a first for me.
More dirty work! This is coming out great, I'm sure you're very happy with it. Such a long process but it's going to pay off very soon.
Thanks Doug. Very soon indeed! I can't leave Ruby exposed any longer.
Super nice weather here lately, did you take advantage of any of it?
Great video 😎👍🏻
Thank you Anthony
nice!! Thanks for showing all the down and dirty stuff.
Thanks Matt, I am pretty much over this stuff and could use something else for a while. Getting a little burned out you know.
@FoothillPaintandFabrication Yes , I know exactly what you mean! I have taken many breaks from the Buick. Go to the lake or work around the farm. Give your brain something else to chew on. They're labors of love, but they are also hard work! Hope you can find a nice distraction.
@@mattsteffee Great advice Matt, thanks
My distraction lately is a total gut of my sisters kitchen. Almost done so that will be nice. Once Ruby is in Epoxy I can take my foot off the gas a little.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Deconstruction can be very theraputic.
@@mattsteffee Yes it is. Thanks
Looks great Mark! So much work. I didn’t do the 220 DA sanding on most of Pops. I also used the conditioning tool (worked very well) and Duragold pads. Same process, though I believe your attention to detail exceeded mine! I’ll be forced to seam seal later because of the dampness up here. I think it’ll work out fine. Preventing surface rust took priority.
Ruby will look so good.
Thanks again for the videos. I always learn a ton.
Thanks Robert. That conditioning tool works great doesn't it? The DA was just to make me feel better and did help get some spots nothing else would.
I will be applying seam sealer after the epoxy and DTM even though many say you can apply them to bare steel. I will be using 3M Urethane seam sealer on most of the car. If I were you I would use urethane as well. The old school solvent based sealers just don't compare to the urethane ones. The urethane sealers cure in the presence of moisture so you are covered there 😁
Guess im going to have to get one of surface conditioners my i65 impala needs this done now so i can spray it and the lemans i took over from my daughter going to need it soon so i can move on thanks mark
Thanks Chris. Christmas is just around the corner so maybe if you start dropping hints right now....
That thing worked better than I had hoped. It works pretty well stripping paint too but you have to watch your heat input into the panel so you don't warp anything.
Hi Mark such attention to detail love your work, how do you stop the bare metal from getting surface rust, where I live bare metal would have rust on it literally overnight
Thanks. I am blessed living in a dry climate but most of it comes from when the car was stripped. Once it was dipped to remove the paint it was then dipped to remove any rust and also treat the bare steel. They dip it in phosphoric acid which inhibits the flash rusting somehow. You can buy phosphoric wipes which I have had a lot of luck with as well. Here is a link to some from Summit but you should be able to buy them at your local automotive paint store. www.summitracing.com/parts/rlp-5003?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-paints-and-finishing&gclid=CjwKCAjw6c63BhAiEiwAF0EH1EPBv_mtKTwJrTK6e0Z0a757PPQ7ymzAUWBEJdSrc45xh0MbdiuJMhoCPcAQAvD_BwE
Mark, I would like to know more about your work history and the area where you live. When you get it on the road, could we see highlights of your area? Maybe some local car shows? Would love to see the GTO parked next to the 65 and the 50 pickup. What about Dave the mystery neighbor? 👍🚘
Hi Steve. I live in California in the foothills as you may have guessed. I will definitely show footage of Ruby on the road and at car shows and with other cars I have painted or built. We are a little bit away from that though. I will do a short about me on a video on of these weeks so you all know a little more about me.
Dave is a car guy as well. We used to work together so that is how I know him. He has a 1950 Willy's Station Wagon he built over 7 years and is now working on a 1929 Model A. He lives just a few minutes from me and we help each other out all the time, go fishing together, drink beers and hang out too. He is very skilled and creative.
Hi, I love your work I was wondering, could you answer a question❓ I’m doing a frame off on my caprice, but the floor pans are rusty. Should I brace the body, take it off then do floor pan Or Should I do floors pan before Removing it from Frame❓I subbed also 💪🏽
HI and welcome to the channel. Is it a convertible? What year Caprice?
Generally you want to do some bracing and replace the floor pans with the car off the frame so you can do a better job. Let me know the year and model and we can go from there.
Is the rest of the car pretty sound? Will it be on a rotisserie or just stands?