The most important addition to this camera for me that ended all the worry about missing focus and the missed focus shot was an Oleson split prism. Now I snap to focus from fully retracted bellows in a heart beat. It is super bright, large and easy to see the splits lining up. Next, I learned to use the optech strap with the wide foam cross body. Going across the chest/back distributes much of the weight and you can alternately rest it on your R hip, press it against your R side or slightly support it with your r hand. I do 3 hour walk abouts with zero ill effects. For street/walkabouts I can react nearly as fast as a manual 35 mm. First, as I enter a new lighting situation, I meter and set aperture/shutter speed. I have the shutter button lock off, the dark slide out, film advanced so all I have to do is pop the wlf, cock the shutter and instantly focus and shoot. With the shutter not cocked, you won't fire accidentally and you can't focus without it cocked so won't forget. The images from this camera feel like you could walk into them.
Wow Jordan, I feel so much! Simply a love-hate relationship with medium format: the cameras are usually always ultra heavy and cumbersome but the results are so convincing! I “only” have a Mamiya 645, but it’s too cumbersome for me to lug around to meetings 😂
been eyeing this for a while so this is great, thanks for the film back info, first time hearing about that! definitely heard lots of complaints about the weight 😭
Any SLR bigger than 6x6 is a tricky issue, depending on your photography style. Mamiya RB was my 1st MF SLR camera. At that time, I shoot primarily street and realized RB wasn't fit my style. Unless you add the prism and grip, so it felt like a bigger 35mm SLR, but much bulkier. On tripod? No issue. What I wanted was something similar to Nikon F2, which led me to Pentax 67. It definitely felt nicer for handheld shooting. Being battery-dependent is a compromise I accept. Another alternatives are... perhaps the lighter Fuji GM670 or Mamiya 6/7. Of course, rangefinders isn't the appropriate tool for certain things like macro or tele landscaping.
Hi, it isn’t truth that the SD has less problems, is just that it is the model that has more recent production, the issues you were having were completely fixable in hands of a technician with experience with mamiya equipment. The reason why the Pro SD back doesn’t have light leaks is cause it has mechanical light sealing, the previous versions and the RZ gen 1 backs need foam light seals but with regular service from experiences technicians they should all work equally well. If you’re having trouble focusing don’t get the prism, it makes the focusing harder cause the light that gets to your eye is dim and further from the focusing screen so the closer you are to the focus screen, the easier it is to nail focus, practice should do it and wlf is the easiest way to focus
I just said the same thing before reading your comment.. these young folks getting into analog photography already feel they know it all... smh.. The idea that PRO SDs don't have light leaks isn't true.. the worst light leaks come from the rotating adapter which is the same across all models.. These shorties need to learn how to fix things themselves and not rely on ebay to change simple things.. ( open that thing up.. study it and fix it.. so easy !!! )
After using all the different backs of the rb67, the most durable and reliable back is the pro s back.. the pro sd isn't as durable as the pro s.. light leak is so easy to fix compared to the problems you will encounter on the newer ones.. don't be lazy if you're goin to get into analog photography, you've got to get into DIY unless you've got alot of greens... The MYTH you just proposed that the PRO SD has alot less problem can not be anything far from the truth.. it all depends on what you buy .. these are old cameras and they've been used real good in their days.. IMO and from experience, the PRO S backs are the most durable..
I’ve gotten mixed reviews from different talented photographers I know and what has worked best for them and usually I’ve been hearing that the SD is better. I’ve been running the Pro S for the past few months now and have had no issues at all so you might be correct. Hopefully this one lasts me a while because I hate trying to fix light seals lol. I know it’s a part of the process of shooting with old cameras but I love just taking photos and having something that hinders that is pretty frustrating.
@@jhex Yeah, I consider tha backs disposable.. The main thing I will recommend to anyone shopping for an old camera is don't look for the hyped one but the clean one. The ProSD which I have is ok, but I will honestly tell you the truth, I have a pro and pro S as well and the most durable and best made of the bunch is the oldest one which you have. The reliability of any old camera depends on the condition the previous owner had it in.. alot of ProSDs seem to be more abused than the ProS from what I see on ebay including the backs.. meanwhile I still get light leaks on my proSD back albeit not that often How large do you print and how do you scan your negatives.. from experience, printing is way more forgiving than viewing the image on screen especially when it comes to grain
RB67 Pros 1. Medium format images are so much better than 35mm images. 2. Camera and lenses are less expensive than Hasselblad. 3. Camera is smaller and lighter than my 4x5 inch camera. RB67 Cons 1. Medium format images are not as good as 4x5 inch large format images. 2. No tilt/swing features. Must use my perspective control lens for my 35mm SLR or use my 4x5 inch view camera. 3. Camera is larger and heavier than my 35mm SLR.
"Medium format images are not as good as 4x5 inch large format images." NOT TRUE!!! "Medium format images are so much better than 35mm images." NOT TRUE as well... whatever your reference is with regards to those bold assumptions has alot of fault to it.. Image quality has alot more to do with the photographer than the gear!!!
@@joshmcdzz6925 My comparisons are directly related to differences in resolution due to differeces in in-camera image size. My comparisons have nothing to do with the photographer, the gear, the lighting, or the subject matter.
@@Narsuitus I guess you should have been more explicit in saying medium format offers more resolution than 35mm and 4x5 more resolution than medium.. The only time I find the resolution thing worth considering is if I will be printing larger than 16x20.. cuz I can get good resolution from on 35mm to print 16x20
@@joshmcdzz6925 Yes, I should have been more explicit. I value image quality. Since I usually make 16x20 to 20x30 prints, when I evaluate image quality, I place a lot of emphasis on resolution.
@@Narsuitus I have a detailed 20x30 print from a 35mm...the print size is dependent on your scanning process. You can have a 4x5 and get very little res out of it and a 35mm could give you something more just from your scanning method ( drum vs flatbed vs the unweildy dslr scanning )
The prism is clutch and makes focusing so much easier and more accurate. So glad I got one. But yes it is a pain in the ass to lug around 😮💨
The most important addition to this camera for me that ended all the worry about missing focus and the missed focus shot was an Oleson split prism. Now I snap to focus from fully retracted bellows in a heart beat. It is super bright, large and easy to see the splits lining up. Next, I learned to use the optech strap with the wide foam cross body. Going across the chest/back distributes much of the weight and you can alternately rest it on your R hip, press it against your R side or slightly support it with your r hand. I do 3 hour walk abouts with zero ill effects. For street/walkabouts I can react nearly as fast as a manual 35 mm. First, as I enter a new lighting situation, I meter and set aperture/shutter speed. I have the shutter button lock off, the dark slide out, film advanced so all I have to do is pop the wlf, cock the shutter and instantly focus and shoot. With the shutter not cocked, you won't fire accidentally and you can't focus without it cocked so won't forget. The images from this camera feel like you could walk into them.
prism helps with focus so much
Beautiful camera and shots!
Wow Jordan, I feel so much! Simply a love-hate relationship with medium format: the cameras are usually always ultra heavy and cumbersome but the results are so convincing! I “only” have a Mamiya 645, but it’s too cumbersome for me to lug around to meetings 😂
been eyeing this for a while so this is great, thanks for the film back info, first time hearing about that! definitely heard lots of complaints about the weight 😭
Any SLR bigger than 6x6 is a tricky issue, depending on your photography style. Mamiya RB was my 1st MF SLR camera. At that time, I shoot primarily street and realized RB wasn't fit my style. Unless you add the prism and grip, so it felt like a bigger 35mm SLR, but much bulkier. On tripod? No issue.
What I wanted was something similar to Nikon F2, which led me to Pentax 67. It definitely felt nicer for handheld shooting. Being battery-dependent is a compromise I accept.
Another alternatives are... perhaps the lighter Fuji GM670 or Mamiya 6/7. Of course, rangefinders isn't the appropriate tool for certain things like macro or tele landscaping.
Hi, it isn’t truth that the SD has less problems, is just that it is the model that has more recent production, the issues you were having were completely fixable in hands of a technician with experience with mamiya equipment.
The reason why the Pro SD back doesn’t have light leaks is cause it has mechanical light sealing, the previous versions and the RZ gen 1 backs need foam light seals but with regular service from experiences technicians they should all work equally well.
If you’re having trouble focusing don’t get the prism, it makes the focusing harder cause the light that gets to your eye is dim and further from the focusing screen so the closer you are to the focus screen, the easier it is to nail focus, practice should do it and wlf is the easiest way to focus
I just said the same thing before reading your comment.. these young folks getting into analog photography already feel they know it all... smh.. The idea that PRO SDs don't have light leaks isn't true.. the worst light leaks come from the rotating adapter which is the same across all models.. These shorties need to learn how to fix things themselves and not rely on ebay to change simple things.. ( open that thing up.. study it and fix it.. so easy !!! )
Jordan dropped!
Great video!!!
What light meter app do You use?
Thx
Thanks! I use an app called lightme
Hello. What’s your process on metering for a scene? Are you using a light meter app or handheld light meter?
Which strap do you use ?
After using all the different backs of the rb67, the most durable and reliable back is the pro s back.. the pro sd isn't as durable as the pro s.. light leak is so easy to fix compared to the problems you will encounter on the newer ones.. don't be lazy if you're goin to get into analog photography, you've got to get into DIY unless you've got alot of greens... The MYTH you just proposed that the PRO SD has alot less problem can not be anything far from the truth.. it all depends on what you buy .. these are old cameras and they've been used real good in their days.. IMO and from experience, the PRO S backs are the most durable..
I’ve gotten mixed reviews from different talented photographers I know and what has worked best for them and usually I’ve been hearing that the SD is better. I’ve been running the Pro S for the past few months now and have had no issues at all so you might be correct. Hopefully this one lasts me a while because I hate trying to fix light seals lol. I know it’s a part of the process of shooting with old cameras but I love just taking photos and having something that hinders that is pretty frustrating.
@@jhex Yeah, I consider tha backs disposable.. The main thing I will recommend to anyone shopping for an old camera is don't look for the hyped one but the clean one. The ProSD which I have is ok, but I will honestly tell you the truth, I have a pro and pro S as well and the most durable and best made of the bunch is the oldest one which you have. The reliability of any old camera depends on the condition the previous owner had it in.. alot of ProSDs seem to be more abused than the ProS from what I see on ebay including the backs.. meanwhile I still get light leaks on my proSD back albeit not that often
How large do you print and how do you scan your negatives.. from experience, printing is way more forgiving than viewing the image on screen especially when it comes to grain
RB67 Pros
1. Medium format images are so much better than 35mm images.
2. Camera and lenses are less expensive than Hasselblad.
3. Camera is smaller and lighter than my 4x5 inch camera.
RB67 Cons
1. Medium format images are not as good as 4x5 inch large format images.
2. No tilt/swing features. Must use my perspective control lens for my 35mm SLR or use my 4x5 inch view camera.
3. Camera is larger and heavier than my 35mm SLR.
"Medium format images are not as good as 4x5 inch large format images." NOT TRUE!!! "Medium format images are so much better than 35mm images." NOT TRUE as well... whatever your reference is with regards to those bold assumptions has alot of fault to it.. Image quality has alot more to do with the photographer than the gear!!!
@@joshmcdzz6925
My comparisons are directly related to differences in resolution due to differeces in in-camera image size. My comparisons have nothing to do with the photographer, the gear, the lighting, or the subject matter.
@@Narsuitus I guess you should have been more explicit in saying medium format offers more resolution than 35mm and 4x5 more resolution than medium..
The only time I find the resolution thing worth considering is if I will be printing larger than 16x20.. cuz I can get good resolution from on 35mm to print 16x20
@@joshmcdzz6925
Yes, I should have been more explicit. I value image quality. Since I usually make 16x20 to 20x30 prints, when I evaluate image quality, I place a lot of emphasis on resolution.
@@Narsuitus I have a detailed 20x30 print from a 35mm...the print size is dependent on your scanning process. You can have a 4x5 and get very little res out of it and a 35mm could give you something more just from your scanning method ( drum vs flatbed vs the unweildy dslr scanning )