How to hang designer radiators on dot & dab walls
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Day in the life of a plumber
In todays video I fit some designer radiators on a dot a dab wall. I also have to snatch a water main as the stop tap wouldn't quite turn off.
As always, thanks for watching, all the support is so greatly appreciated
#plumber #plumbing #apprentice #dayinthelife #radiator #howto
Always start 2 drill bit sizes lower than required, incase of a dodgy wall. Easier to go larger than smaller. Hoover the hole out with core fix, needs to be a snug fit. Fail to prepare, prepare to fail.
Ive just fitted the same style radiators all on dot and dab walls……!
Absolute nightmare.
The core fix were useless as the brackets are so small the plaster would just crack and break.
The only way to sort this was by packing the back of the bracket with board adhesive and allowing it to go off.
Joys of be a plumber !
They are a nightmare sometimes, they did work for me on this job, in the past I have had to put timber behind and patch in, thanks for watching 👍
good idea on board adhesive, I've used them on lathe and plaster external walls (to those who don't know, similar to dot and dab but 100 years earlier, brick with battens then lathe across the battens), worked for some of the walls, ended up cutting the wall open and getting timber in others, depended of a few things, cavity/gap very variable on victorian houses and the strength of the crumbling brick.
It would also help if the Rad manufacturer made larger brackets ,with more choice of fixing hole, that wouldn't then pull into the plaster board.
Exactly that mate, I can never understand why they don't, thanks for watching 👍
We did heaviest rad ever other week was decent enough fixing but caved the plasterboard in when rad was on .the kitchen fitter said why don’t you use a bit of 22 copper as spacing actually worked a treat .the young clever clogs 😅 will try these fixings tho next time cheers 👍
That's how I used to do them, I found sometimes especially with the lightweight blocks the copper would start to dig into the block itself, these seemed to solve that problem, thanks for watching as always 👍
Absolutely hate fitting these rads with a vengeance. Those fixings are the dogs danglys mate, use them all the time. Great vid as allways Tom, have a good weekend buddy.
Thanks for the support as always mate, they certainly served me well here, have a great weekend 👍
Anchor setting tool is the way I've always put up rads, especially with plaster board walls. Solid every time
Thanks for watching mate
Another great video Tom, I am looking forward to seeing that bathroom when it’s finished ✅ 👏👏
Have a peaceful weekend
Thanks for the support as always Andy, this job has been rolling on a while now, bathroom won't be until next year, have a great weekend 👍
"Saves you a world of pain" 🤣
Hi Tom. I’d just use a normal drill and not on hammer action. 6 mm first. Hope that helps.
Sds to extreme on soft block work
Thanks for the support mate, when I first started drilling I though they were going to be really hard red brick, I think I would have been better off without hammer mode
I do like corefix for dot and dab but ultimately you are at the mercy of whatever is behind the plasterboard. Bullfix are decent for stud walls. Coming along nicely 😊
Thanks for the support as always mate, often the walls are rubbish, sometimes the brick or stone is just completely loose
That one is coming along nicely now Tom,
Have a great weekend Mate,
👍👍🤜
Thanks for the support as always Tony, slow progress on this one, it suits me though as I can drop in when I get a spare day
Yes mate .those dot and dab walls are a nightmare sometimes to get a decent fixing . And you never know what the wall is like behind either..Got to have sone good fixings with those heavy radiators. .
Just have to do what you can mate .
Good job you have got all your pipes in as well ..👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the support as always John, these bricks were really crumbly, I managed to get good fixings in the end though, thanks for watching as always 👍
Hi Tom, another great film there thank you, the dot and dab walls can be a pain at times and really slow the installation down.
The fixings you had there look good, as long as you have some wall behind to fix into.
The job appears to be coming along nicely now, have a great weekend Tom and don’t forget your Christmas shopping?
As always take care. 👍👍👍
Thanks for the support as always Chris, I did manage to get good fixings on all the rads, on some I had to move the brackets as the bricks behind were so crumbly, I still need to finish off my Christmas shopping, have a great weekend mate 👍
corefix fixings mate - bridge the gap between plasterboard and block and don't pull in. solid fixing give them a try!
Thanks for the support as always mate 👍
Good work, i normally use a small cut of 15mm copper to span the gap of the dot and dab
I have done that in the past, thanks for watching as always 👍
Used them core-fix, they brilliant for stopping the weight of the rad dragging the screws down through the plasterboard as well due to the space between the brickwork and plasterboard.
They are very good, thanks for watching mate
Suggest to the customer next time corner angled rad valves. Specifically considering youve gone to all the effort of chasing them into the wall. Much nicer finish
Agreed, most do come out the floor in the other rooms as the skirting boards weren't removed, they do look Ok but when the pipes come out the wall corner valves are best, thanks for watching mate
Nice update and enjoy the weekend our Tom 👍x.
Hi Tom i used to fix brown plugs an bridge with a piece of 6mm gas fire pipe always worked for me.The job is coming along great
That sounds like a good idea Keith, similar to these but cheaper, thanks for watching as always mate
I'd be thinking about getting the rest of your little tricks patented, if I were you Keith 😉
Good job Tom as always 👍😎
Thanks for the support as always PB, have a great weekend 👍
I’ve used corefix Tom highly rate them used them on a new build to put up a 60” TV on the wall all new builds dot and dab can be a pain but looked good because we fished all the cables behind and looked well good with nothing on show.
They seemed really good, these walls weren't that great and they did hold strong, thanks for watching as always Charles 👍
Hi Tom - great, interesting video, as always.
If I’m right, those rads are Acova from Screwfix - I fitted these throughout my own house, and I think they’re pretty good.
What I especially like about them is that the brackets aren’t pre-attached to the rad, giving a great deal of flexibility as to positioning them - which I found very useful one one particularly bad wall.
The other advantage of this is that you can choose which way around to mount them (i.e. which is the front face) which makes matching the flow pipe to the correct side easy. (On these rads the flow should be opposite the vent.)
Thanks for the support as always Steve, I believe they are the screwfix ones, I was pretty impressed with them, like you say you can flip them round if the flow is on the wrong side
Rads look good Tom, but they can be a real pain to fit, jobs coming along nicely, hope you have a good weekend. 👍🚽
Thanks for the support as always Peter, you can't beat standard rads I don't think, easy to hang and give you plenty of heat
Enjoyed that tom...have a nice weekend mate
Thanks for the support as always Paul, have a great weekend 👍
I always mark bracket on wall, drill hole for fixing,cut out 2" square of plaster board around it, mix up bonding plaster and cement 50/50, trowel in hole, then fit plasterboard square back in again. Goes rock hard in minutes. Do for each bracket. Minimal making good required
I have done it like that in the past and it does work really well, it was quicker doing like this though. As long as the fixings stay strong that is, thanks for watching
I use the core fixes all the time, especially for kitchen wall units. They're ideal.
I will certainly be using them again, thanks for watching
They look good. I'm retired now, but help my mate out now and again, and the number of times we've struggled with dot and dab, when fixing wall units... You've got one chance -and one chance only - with the brackets, so no chance of moving them. Still - even the best designed fixing in the world is only as good as the wall it's being drilled into, and Tom's experience with the first two holes is ours, so many times - in fact you can almost guarantee to hit a soft joint, or the edge of one, on the first hole.
I normally use a bit of 15mm pipe in the wall as a spacer and normal 100mm screws. So your fixing to the wall not the plaster board
I have done it like that in the past as well, the only thing I found with the light weight blocks the copper sometimes started digging into the block, thanks for watching mate
Geefix fixture are the best for dot and dab. they can hold an Elephant up😂
I will check them out, thanks for watching 👍
Hi mate. Feel your pain with naff walls. I have dabbed walls on to old “no fines” walls on an estate I do work on…. Nightmare stuff… big pebbles and cement mixed to make a wall. These fixings have their place along as the wall is solid behind… if not try the bull fix plasterboard fixings. 👍👍
When you say pebble walks are they pre cast panels ? There is an estate in my town with pre cast panels , can't get a fixing to save your life . 😕
They are literally called “no fines” walls… no fine aggregates. I believe they were used with an outer brick skin and a shuttered and poured concrete inner leaf… either way they are horrid to work on and can’t fix nothing to them easily.
No fines' walls what a nightmare , it's like trying to fix to a bag of stones ,The drill bit just goes where it wants .
@@ginola602 yeah we’ve got round it in the past re dabbing boards onto it with dabbed bits of plywood behind them for fixing points for kitchen units etc. or if your really in a pinch you can always use a tube of resin fix to hold a bolt or screw in place. Never ideal though
Hi Tom
I’m only getting round to watching this now, just the typical Christmas madness 🤦🏼♂️
Great video as always and a happy new year to you and your family bud 🎉
These rads are just getting heavier and heavier ffs all well and good but I’d fitted four to a large open plan and called back 5weeks later as they wanted to redecorate 🤬lifting them f##kers with water in them is no joke on your own 😵💫
Happy New Year Paul, hope you had a great Christmas, some of these designer rads are a nightmare, they don't kick out the heat and the brackets aren't fit for purpose
That rad looks like it can make cup tea 🍵😅
It does a bit, thanks for watching
Ive always used corefix on dot n dab. Never had an issue. Then again I get slagged off by my mate for using compression fittings to make the rad tails out of chrome pipe out of the floor, the rad valve itself is compression so whats the issue using one out of sight! Great video as always mate, have a good weekend
Thanks for the support as always Gary, I will certainly use these again, have a great weekend mate 👍
You could have used a tube of resin chem fix with the fixings you usedit goes off quite quick and once resin sets it won't go anywhere, I've not used the core fix fixings frame fixings are quite good also drill a 5mms hole and the hold great also
Resin is great stuff to be fair, I have used it in the past for channel fixings on uni-strut brackets, these core fixings did hold really well on this job in the end, thanks for watching as always mate
I have had a teenager, some how, pull a standard rad. off of a breeze block wall (accident) So, on a dot & dab ! Not in my house.
Fair point Martin, I did manage to get good fixings on these but you probably could pull them off with enough force, thanks for watching as always mate
nice video bro!!! merry Christmas mate
Merry Christmas Brad, I see you uploaded, I need to sit down and watch it tonight
yes! new upload!! channel is staring to pick up!! @@PlumbLikeTom
i despise those fixings, for the size of plug you need those holes are way too close together, i've done that mistake a few times where they blow into one big hole, luckily you can move them up or down. Corefix all the way though
Thanks for watching, I don't like them either
I use Corefix they come in two lengths 100mm and 120mm, the only difference is the length of the screws I wish they made longer sizes of the rawlplug red bit as some Dot & Dabs are so deep especially if insulated plasterboard is used.
Insulated plasterboard is always a nightmare to fix on, I will certainly use these if they are long enough, thanks for watching as always mate
Always generally looks a good job.
My only comment would be why havent you insulated the condensate through the wall like the MI's ask for?
Fair point, I always lag external, thanks for watching 👍
Another good video Tom, have you ever had any problems with Tectite fittings?
I haven't yet, I don't use them alot though, sometimes they do come in handy, thanks for watching as always 👍
Could you not have kept the original hole that didn't work and switch to those spring toggles for that one bracket. I feel you sometimes need a mixture of fixings as the same thing could have happened to you when you got to the last bracket and the wall behand fell apart so you need to use something else that grabs to the board.
Potentially I could have, I possibly would have done if it had all been completely decorated and done, thanks for watching 👍
The joiners should of put a 12mm plywood patrous on the wall as a packer and the spreads could line off it for their dots
That would have made life a bit easier, thanks for watching mate 👍
Very good visual on the dot and dab wall’s and a tectite sprint elbow 👍👍
Question Tom, I’ve put a strap boss on the soil stack and connected to 40 mil sink waste up to it and I’ve got a slight drip on the bottom of the strap boss when emptying the sink or the washing machine tried gluing the outside of it all around again Any ideas? Cheers , great video I’m liken the radiator , hope you be having a bit of fun time over the Christmas holidays 👍👍👍🫵🫵🎄🎄🎄
You will need to clean off as much of the excess glue as possible and then with a hair dryer warm it up to get rid of any water before putting weld adhesive around it again. Should do it .
@@dennisphoenix1 thanks for your help 👍👍👍🎄have a good Christmas and enjoy your new year
🤘😎🤘
Thanks for the support as always Wayne, have a great weekend 👍
Tom I think you need a new tape measure. 😊
It's nearly Christmas, we will have to see what comes, thanks for watching 👍
im going to be hanging 2x double panel vertical radiators 1800x600mm 7044 BTUs. the pipe drop is in 10mm microbore would that be enough to supply for both rads?
You are on the limit but it will probably work, ideally 15mm pipe would be better, but sometimes this isn't always possible, thanks for watching 👍
Better with wooden grounds if possible.
Agreed, I have done that in the past but it is a little time consuming, these were solid to be fair, thanks for watching as always Brian 👍
What core drill and bits would you recommend
I use rothenburger core bits, I can't remember the brand of the drill but is was a fairly cheap one, it seems decent enough. I had a Makita one for years but it packed up, thanks for watching
@@PlumbLikeTom thanks for the reply I’m new to the game so I’m looking to see what tools are best to buy.
Come on lad you afford a new tape measure
For Dot & Dab, us Fisher Duopower Plugs Tom. A lot cheaper than Corefix & work a treat👍👍
Another thing you can do: is Standard 7mm Brown Plugs & a short bit of 10mm PF Plastic Pipe, this works well too👍👍
Good video as always & have a great Christmas☃️☃️🎄🎄🎄🎄
Good tip that with the 10mm pipe, it will work exactly the same as these expensive fixings. Thanks for all the support this year, have a fantastic Christmas