Possibly one of the best videos you have done. How many people out there have struggled with fixing to Dot & Dab ? Myself included, specially with TVs getting bigger ! Brilliant advice and brilliantly explained 👍
And that is how you do a reveal that you got your 100k award from RUclips. Well done! A very simple and effective way of getting the job done without forking out for "special" fixings! Duly noted for later use on my d&d walls!
Great video. I hang very heavy radiators all the time. If you can’t see behind the rad, I cut away small squares and fill with rapid set cement. This is a great tip for the column type where you can see the wall behind. The rapid set cement can be mixed like the filler you used. For anyone who’s looking for a one visit job, rapid set cement is the way. I have bricked up old boilers and hung the new boiler same day onto the new brickwork
Never been a DIY person. After watching this video multiple times, I finally took the plunge in trying out this method for fixing my curtain rod brackets. Probably seems overkill but feeling how sturdy the fixing is was very satisfying and learning what's behind my wall through your video gave me a huge confidence boost in attempting my own DIY. Thank you very much for this video!
Congratulations on 100k subscribers. It's well deserved. Never seen wall fixings done like this before - its a great idea and worth noting. Im off to look for one of those refillable cartridges now!!
Hi Stuart, great video as always and congrats on the 100K - well deserved! I do DIY out of necessity (and enjoy it) due to cost and have learnt so much from watching your videos and gaining from your years of experience. Useful approach to dot & dab walls, in the past I have used the Corefix Heavy Duty Dot & Dab Wall Fixings with great success for heavy items likes TV brackets, however it is good to have this as an alternative as well. Many thanks again and keep the videos coming! My wife will soon be watching your gardening videos, so you are becoming required family viewing!
After having dot and dab done as part of some renovation work I looked into fixings and I wasn't keen on drilling huge holes and to depths required for these specialist fixings. I actually thought of this idea using dry wall adhesive but not got around to trying it, your video reinforces my my idea that it works. Thanks for the video
Great video and some memory worthy tips. After a few disasters in my new build, and a realisation that dot and dab is not my friend, I found the perfect product… for my needs at least. For the last 6 years my 65 inch TV, multiple floating shelves and a rather heavy display frame, have been supported by DRYLINE PRO. Made for this exact reason… not failed yet.
Fortunately I live in an old house, but this is a fantastic piece of information for when I work on other houses. I reckon the people who put those stickers on products look for the most inconvenient place. Love the ending
Great video, thanks. Have used your technique successfully on heavy kitchen cupboards. Also works really well for fixing blinds into the top corner of a window reveal where there is often a massive void.
Came up with this 'put a dab where you want one' method not long after buying this place over 20 years ago. Never seen it until I gave my version on a forum a week or so back and someone commented they'd seen this video. I'll have to try your poly bag trick. Here's my version: Mark the required fixing positions Drill holes the required size for the fixing used through the PB and just started into the masonry Mix up some PB adhesive and load it into an old cleaned-out water-based sealant cartridge Inject a third to a half a cartridge into each hole depending on the void Press the back end of the drill a few mm into the into the hole to mark where to drill later. Wait at least a week for the PB to dry out as it swells and softens with the excess water Treat it as a normal plastered wall using ordinary wallplugs
genius idea Stuart. Congrats on the 100k, you deserve it. Amazing production quality on your videos, informative content with a decent dab of humor thrown in. You just took my patreon virginity. First patreon I have signed up for out of 30 or so channels I subscribe to.
Thank you Simon and thank you for signing up to Patreon. I will see you tomorrow for the weekly 'Proper FYI' and weekly competition on 'the other side'!
Brilliant video, and perfectly timed as I'm looking at hanging an IKEA style shelf unit, and naturally the wall we decided is a dot n dab wall. Will be using this method. And congratulations on the subs. Glad I'm one of em
OMG I laughed so loudly at your face when you saw the sticker. It is completely the same face that I would've made! I am so glad that I watched this, you've solved my hollow brick problem, with construction in South Africa using maxi clay bricks that have rather large hollow holes in them.
Thank you! This is an amazing idea 💡. I live in Mexico and I decided to use dot and dab drywall in my house. Not a clever idea, as apparently no one else uses this technique here. So those special wall plugs literally can't be found unless super expensive import+shipping. I'm planning to mount a heavy TV, and I was thinking about making a special metal spacer plug (kind of the ones you can buy in the UK), but your solution is much more practical, and also cheap. Thank you!
Literally just put a shelf up using Corefix fixings before this vid popped up. All done in 15 mins including the unpacing and tidy up. Probably not a lot in price difference either by the time you've bought the filler, fixings, caulking applicator, reusable tube, etc. Also, let's be honest, if the Mrs wants something done it has to be now and not a bit now and I'll finish it tomorrow ;-) Congrats on the 100K
I find that when my wife wants something up quickly it's probably small and light like a picture so no need for this method. The requirement to hang heavy items generally comes from me so I have no problem spending a bit time preparing things on a Saturday afternoon so I can complete the strongest of fixings on the Sunday morning.
This was a huge help, thank you! Normally I've always used corefix fixings but the racking I'm hanging for my Mrs will only take 8mm max so I was stumped short of framing the wall out before I saw your video!
No I'm sure it's not in the US. Here in brick houses we used to plaster walls traditionally - now this 'stick up some drywall in front of the brick' technique seems the norm.
Hey Stuart. I live in the US and in Florida what they do is nail 3/4" wood furring strips to block walls and then screw plaster board ( dry wall ) to that. The gap is bigger and that makes it more of a pain. I have normally use wall plugs designed for completely hollow walls and sometime have to snip the tip off. I have had a few pull out and need to come up with a solution that reaches into the block but like I say, the distance is greater and more problematic especially on brackets where there is "pull out" force as opposed to vertical force. I am not 100% confident that this will work here. The gap is bigger so the material might not pancake as well into a circle above as well as below. Going to give it a try though. This is a problem here too.
Firstly congratulations on 100,000 subs, well deserved. I've gained so much knowledge from you and this is one of your best pro tips so far. I only wish it was a week earlier as I just forked out for the Corefix screws. I have this new found knowledge for the future though so thanks again.
I had a funny feeling that's what was going up on the wall, Congratulations on getting over 100k subscribers, oh and by the way great video. Stay Safe, Barry (the Wirral)
Congratulations on 100k subscribers, a great achievement. This is another excellent video and a simple way to take the concern out of fixing to D&D. Much cheaper than the corefix system which also needs very large holes.
Never seen it done this way before but this method looks a great solid alternative to some expensive specialist fixings. I would typically use smaller toggle bolts or hollow wall anchors but can run into issues getting them to expand properly in the narrow voids. Will have to give this a go next time round. Great ending to the video, well deserved, all your videos are superb. 👍
This method is very good 👍🏻 for Hongkonger, because Hong Kong building is different with UK house design, this great method provide a substantial improvement for me😃 Thank you so much🙏🏻 Cheers 💪🏻💪🏻
Proper job again me ole mate. I do hate the dot and dab walls. Pain of my life, I will remember this for a long time as I have a floor to ceiling mirror to put up for the wife. 👍🏻👍🏻
Haven't encountered this problem yet but really good to know how solve what I surely will encounter in years to come. Was that an IKEA bracket in the test rig I saw, I've loads of those left over too! Your face after finding the sticker was priceless, no heat gun this time, just rip the bugger off. Well done on the subscriber milestone.
Brilliant idea Stuart and much cheaper than all of the new fan-dangled fixings that you can buy these days. Congrats on the 100K plaque - I knew there was a giggle coming for your important 'thing' but I could only think that you'd be putting up a picture of the wife! 😁 Cheers. 👍
Great video. My last house had its TV mounted using a similar method with a hybrid mortar in injected behind the board. This was after a specialist fixing failed on installation. I won't mention the brand because the failure was in the friable block work. Filling the void solved the problem you showed and in my case also provided support for the service of the block work behind. Anyway what I thought was genius was the selection of the powered adhesive. A tube of hybrid mortar which gets used once and binned was 8 x the cost. I'm in a timber framed house now with lots of different challenges. Take care. K
I'm curious what you think of Corefix fixings specifically. I've always liked them because they're pretty much instant, and in my line of work I can't wait for filler to go off. This is a great solution though, creating your own 'dab' to fix through is great. Keep up the great work!
Fantastic video and channel, congratulations on achieving 100,000, well deserved! Any tips on hanging heavy items on timber stud plasterboard walls (where there is no block work or brick for fixing into)? Thanks
I use two methods for this. If the fixing isn't going to be seen it is possible to span the uprights with a batten or plywood and fix to that. If the fixings are going to be seen it may be neccesary to cut some plasterboard out and fix a noggin where you need the fixing and reboard and fill over. Depending on the strength of fixing required there are some very good heavy duty plasterboard fixings available though.
@@Dragon-Slay3r Kitchen unit hangars (metal) use same french cleat principle. Newer kitchen units have a hanging clamp device, I don't know what it's called, which hooks on and into the metal strip. This means that the strips can first be screwed firmly to studs and so weaker plasterboard fixings not needed. Work great, but harder to find. IKEA do some, I got mine from Azn.
@@asilver2889 to me everyone and everybody is clear I don't really care don't get caught up in the game everyone should just leave to get the people at the bottom of the chain is not possible as all different levels have been covered
Congrats on the 100k subs!! Love the channel and all the tips. Now I just need to find the time to do all that needs doing around the house!! Keep it up.
The way lath and plaster is constructed together with its age I wouldn't trust it for anything more than a light picture. I have no suggestions on how to give it strength I'm afraid other than putting something on its surface
Proper DIY? Pure common sense more like.... shame I'd never considered this! Congrats on surpassing 100k subscribers, and congrats on another great video.
This has to be one of the best tips I have come across in years. I was wondering if you could use expanding foam instead as it cures very quickly and is very firm when set. Plus it a lot less fiddley than your method, of could you do a test with expanding foam as I'm sure it would be very interesting.
Great video with excellent “behind the scenes” close ups. However, this is very time consuming and there is a delay between prepping and fixing. I always use wooden dowels cut to length to make contact with the wall and finish flush to the face of the plasterboard. The centre of the dowel is drilled out to provide a clearance hole for the screw and when the object is screwed to the wall through the dowel spacer/packer there is no load on the plasterboard. Never had a failure yet (this quote was not attributed to the Captain of the Titanic!) Just found your channel and finding it interesting, thanks for your input.
I've had a lot of success recently using this and similar methods. Also with soudal plasterboard adhesive spray foam, dries solid and expands to fill gaps in the cavity, however I was careful to not use too much.
@@cannontrodder Yes, I think people see foam as the newer way to attach plasterboard as its easier, faster and usually less mess. I found that most of the boards on certain walls in my house were only attached with a few dabs of plaster which caused cracks and boards to be able to be even pushed in on the joins. The foam did the job to fix it for me :)
I don’t have dot and dab walls but whilst watching the video this is exactly what i thought i would do. That soudal foam is such a good product, no foam gun needed, costs £8 and u can close it up and use it again another day, Ive reopened one a couple a months later after 1st use and was just like a new tube.
Hi Stuart Wow mate iv been in the trade now since I was a teenager and that is a lot of years now lol ,this has got to be the best solution I’ve ever seen, I’m really impressed mate I’m definitely going to use this next time I’m in a predicament… really great video my mate thank you 👍👍👍👍
This is a great idea if you have time for the filler to dry - it's cheap too! Dryline Pro or Corefix are both good with no waiting time required (as long as you have some!)
Congratulations on your you tube button, well deserved. Is there a possibility that you could do another film on fixings on a timber frame house as that is what most houses are built out if here in New Zealand, I always want to hang something where there is no timber to screw to and am always disappointed with my failures. Thanks
A simple solution if what you’re hanging is relatively wide is to screw a piece of ply onto two adjacent studs and use it as a pattress to then screw your object to.
Possibly one of the best videos you have done. How many people out there have struggled with fixing to Dot & Dab ? Myself included, specially with TVs getting bigger ! Brilliant advice and brilliantly explained 👍
Thank you very much. Glad you enjoyed it!
When I wanted to put games consoles under my tv, I attached legs to a shelf to put the TV on rather than try to wallmount it
Do wall scanners work on dot and dab walls
And that is how you do a reveal that you got your 100k award from RUclips. Well done!
A very simple and effective way of getting the job done without forking out for "special" fixings! Duly noted for later use on my d&d walls!
Glad you liked it!
Great video. I hang very heavy radiators all the time. If you can’t see behind the rad, I cut away small squares and fill with rapid set cement. This is a great tip for the column type where you can see the wall behind. The rapid set cement can be mixed like the filler you used. For anyone who’s looking for a one visit job, rapid set cement is the way. I have bricked up old boilers and hung the new boiler same day onto the new brickwork
As long as you don't have to see the end result this is a great tip - get rid of the soft stuff and replace with hard - Nice one!
My “Go to” channel before undertaking any DIY. Great work on the 100k.Deserved.!
Never been a DIY person. After watching this video multiple times, I finally took the plunge in trying out this method for fixing my curtain rod brackets. Probably seems overkill but feeling how sturdy the fixing is was very satisfying and learning what's behind my wall through your video gave me a huge confidence boost in attempting my own DIY. Thank you very much for this video!
Congratulations on 100k subscribers. It's well deserved. Never seen wall fixings done like this before - its a great idea and worth noting. Im off to look for one of those refillable cartridges now!!
Thanks 👍
Hi Stuart, great video as always and congrats on the 100K - well deserved! I do DIY out of necessity (and enjoy it) due to cost and have learnt so much from watching your videos and gaining from your years of experience. Useful approach to dot & dab walls, in the past I have used the Corefix Heavy Duty Dot & Dab Wall Fixings with great success for heavy items likes TV brackets, however it is good to have this as an alternative as well. Many thanks again and keep the videos coming! My wife will soon be watching your gardening videos, so you are becoming required family viewing!
Nice one - Thank you
Another fantastic video thanks. And im so glad to be one of the 100 thousand people you have inspired and helped .Best wishes from Ireland 🇮🇪
Thank you Mark
After having dot and dab done as part of some renovation work I looked into fixings and I wasn't keen on drilling huge holes and to depths required for these specialist fixings.
I actually thought of this idea using dry wall adhesive but not got around to trying it, your video reinforces my my idea that it works.
Thanks for the video
Great video and some memory worthy tips.
After a few disasters in my new build, and a realisation that dot and dab is not my friend, I found the perfect product… for my needs at least. For the last 6 years my 65 inch TV, multiple floating shelves and a rather heavy display frame, have been supported by DRYLINE PRO. Made for this exact reason… not failed yet.
Fortunately I live in an old house, but this is a fantastic piece of information for when I work on other houses. I reckon the people who put those stickers on products look for the most inconvenient place. Love the ending
Thanks
Congrats on 100.000 subscribers. And thanks for another great video.
Thank you very much!
Congratulations, Stuart!! Very impressive milestone in such a short time, and thoroughly well deserved.
Thank you
Brilliant news Stuart - Keeping me entertained and learning every Friday whilst I wait for my kids in Gymnastics club!
A fantastic achievement.
I know what it's like to wait in your car for children to finish!
Great video, thanks. Have used your technique successfully on heavy kitchen cupboards. Also works really well for fixing blinds into the top corner of a window reveal where there is often a massive void.
Came up with this 'put a dab where you want one' method not long after buying this place over 20 years ago. Never seen it until I gave my version on a forum a week or so back and someone commented they'd seen this video. I'll have to try your poly bag trick.
Here's my version:
Mark the required fixing positions
Drill holes the required size for the fixing used through the PB and just started into the masonry
Mix up some PB adhesive and load it into an old cleaned-out water-based sealant cartridge
Inject a third to a half a cartridge into each hole depending on the void
Press the back end of the drill a few mm into the into the hole to mark where to drill later.
Wait at least a week for the PB to dry out as it swells and softens with the excess water
Treat it as a normal plastered wall using ordinary wallplugs
Great video Stewart (as usual), congratulations on hitting 100,000 .
Thanks
Congrats on the 100k subscribers, absolutely stellar work from a standing start maybe 18 months ago 👏
Thank you
Excellent work Stuart and congrats on the 100K subs milestone. Well deserved
Congratulations on 100k subscribers.
Thank you so much 😀
Congratulations on your award. You kept that quiet.
Great video as usual.
congrats on getting to 100k subs. well deserved. one of my fav YT channels
genius idea Stuart. Congrats on the 100k, you deserve it. Amazing production quality on your videos, informative content with a decent dab of humor thrown in. You just took my patreon virginity. First patreon I have signed up for out of 30 or so channels I subscribe to.
Thank you Simon and thank you for signing up to Patreon. I will see you tomorrow for the weekly 'Proper FYI' and weekly competition on 'the other side'!
Brilliant video, and perfectly timed as I'm looking at hanging an IKEA style shelf unit, and naturally the wall we decided is a dot n dab wall. Will be using this method. And congratulations on the subs. Glad I'm one of em
Nice one thanks. Take some photos and let me know how you got on.
Nice one thanks. Take some photos and let me know how you got on.
The quality of presentation just keeps getting better and better. I hope you've got room on that wall for the next Play Button!
Thank you. The next button is a long way away I think!
Congratulations on 100k! Love seeing this channel grow.
Thank you
One of the best diy ideas I have seen. Many thanks.
Brilliant idea, you deserve your RUclips award well done Stew
Thank you kindly
OMG I laughed so loudly at your face when you saw the sticker. It is completely the same face that I would've made! I am so glad that I watched this, you've solved my hollow brick problem, with construction in South Africa using maxi clay bricks that have rather large hollow holes in them.
Lovely video. Never thought of doing it like that. And gentle humour in your explanation too, making it fun as well as informative.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you! This is an amazing idea 💡. I live in Mexico and I decided to use dot and dab drywall in my house. Not a clever idea, as apparently no one else uses this technique here. So those special wall plugs literally can't be found unless super expensive import+shipping. I'm planning to mount a heavy TV, and I was thinking about making a special metal spacer plug (kind of the ones you can buy in the UK), but your solution is much more practical, and also cheap. Thank you!
Literally just put a shelf up using Corefix fixings before this vid popped up. All done in 15 mins including the unpacing and tidy up. Probably not a lot in price difference either by the time you've bought the filler, fixings, caulking applicator, reusable tube, etc. Also, let's be honest, if the Mrs wants something done it has to be now and not a bit now and I'll finish it tomorrow ;-)
Congrats on the 100K
I find that when my wife wants something up quickly it's probably small and light like a picture so no need for this method. The requirement to hang heavy items generally comes from me so I have no problem spending a bit time preparing things on a Saturday afternoon so I can complete the strongest of fixings on the Sunday morning.
This was a huge help, thank you! Normally I've always used corefix fixings but the racking I'm hanging for my Mrs will only take 8mm max so I was stumped short of framing the wall out before I saw your video!
Congrats on 100K subscribers! I have never heard of this technique for installing drywall on block walls. I don't think it is common in America.
No I'm sure it's not in the US. Here in brick houses we used to plaster walls traditionally - now this 'stick up some drywall in front of the brick' technique seems the norm.
@@ProperDIY probably because it’s cheaper 🙁
Well done on the 100k. Brilliant channel. Here's to the next 100k
Gratz stu on your award, well deserved. Keep em coming, best DIY vids on RUclips currently. 👍👍👍
Wow, thanks!
Hey Stuart. I live in the US and in Florida what they do is nail 3/4" wood furring strips to block walls and then screw plaster board ( dry wall ) to that. The gap is bigger and that makes it more of a pain. I have normally use wall plugs designed for completely hollow walls and sometime have to snip the tip off. I have had a few pull out and need to come up with a solution that reaches into the block but like I say, the distance is greater and more problematic especially on brackets where there is "pull out" force as opposed to vertical force.
I am not 100% confident that this will work here. The gap is bigger so the material might not pancake as well into a circle above as well as below. Going to give it a try though. This is a problem here too.
Firstly congratulations on 100,000 subs, well deserved. I've gained so much knowledge from you and this is one of your best pro tips so far. I only wish it was a week earlier as I just forked out for the Corefix screws. I have this new found knowledge for the future though so thanks again.
Thanks
Well deserved 100k, love the reveal!
Thank you!
Just found your channel and been binging the videos. Great stuff and congrats on 100k.
Thank you David
I had a funny feeling that's what was going up on the wall, Congratulations on getting over 100k subscribers, oh and by the way great video.
Stay Safe,
Barry (the Wirral)
Thank you
Congratulations on the play button. Well deserved
Thank you very much!
Congratulations on 100k subscribers, a great achievement. This is another excellent video and a simple way to take the concern out of fixing to D&D. Much cheaper than the corefix system which also needs very large holes.
Thank you
@@ProperDIY thanks Stuart, your house is beautiful too. You can do so much with that vacant space too
Excellent video again Stuart - I shall be using this method from now on. Congratulations on the 100k
Thanks 👍
Excellent! And love the big reveal at the end!!
Congratulations Stuart on the plus 100k subs!!!
I knew you were doing that RUclips plaque!!!!!
Was it that obvious?
@@ProperDIY RLMAO
Never seen it done this way before but this method looks a great solid alternative to some expensive specialist fixings. I would typically use smaller toggle bolts or hollow wall anchors but can run into issues getting them to expand properly in the narrow voids. Will have to give this a go next time round.
Great ending to the video, well deserved, all your videos are superb. 👍
Thank you very much
This method is very good 👍🏻 for Hongkonger, because Hong Kong building is different with UK house design, this great method provide a substantial improvement for me😃
Thank you so much🙏🏻
Cheers 💪🏻💪🏻
Nice one thanks
Proper job again me ole mate. I do hate the dot and dab walls. Pain of my life, I will remember this for a long time as I have a floor to ceiling mirror to put up for the wife. 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice one, thanks Stuart.
Haven't encountered this problem yet but really good to know how solve what I surely will encounter in years to come. Was that an IKEA bracket in the test rig I saw, I've loads of those left over too! Your face after finding the sticker was priceless, no heat gun this time, just rip the bugger off. Well done on the subscriber milestone.
Thanks. No just a bracket I bought at B&Q
Pure Genius! Thx for taking the time to post it 👍
Brilliant idea Stuart and much cheaper than all of the new fan-dangled fixings that you can buy these days. Congrats on the 100K plaque - I knew there was a giggle coming for your important 'thing' but I could only think that you'd be putting up a picture of the wife! 😁 Cheers. 👍
Exactly what I thought
Thank you
Brilliant video, and well done on 100k subscribers!
Congratulations on the 100k subs Stuart, well deserved
Thanks
Congrats on your plaque,great video explaining things sensibly for us casual diyers too!
Thank you
Great video. My last house had its TV mounted using a similar method with a hybrid mortar in injected behind the board. This was after a specialist fixing failed on installation. I won't mention the brand because the failure was in the friable block work. Filling the void solved the problem you showed and in my case also provided support for the service of the block work behind. Anyway what I thought was genius was the selection of the powered adhesive. A tube of hybrid mortar which gets used once and binned was 8 x the cost.
I'm in a timber framed house now with lots of different challenges. Take care. K
Thank you
As always, first class. Well done
If anyone asks you how you got >100k subs…. Just show them this video.
Exceptionally well put together. As per usual.
Thank you
congratulations on 100,000 subs
Thanks
Congrats on the 100k.
Thank you so much 😀
Congratulations on your well deserved plaque and thank you.
Thanks
Well done with the 100K subscribers. Well deserved.
Thanks
I'm curious what you think of Corefix fixings specifically. I've always liked them because they're pretty much instant, and in my line of work I can't wait for filler to go off.
This is a great solution though, creating your own 'dab' to fix through is great.
Keep up the great work!
Amazing method. I've never seen this before and will definitely give it go. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic video and channel, congratulations on achieving 100,000, well deserved!
Any tips on hanging heavy items on timber stud plasterboard walls (where there is no block work or brick for fixing into)? Thanks
I use two methods for this. If the fixing isn't going to be seen it is possible to span the uprights with a batten or plywood and fix to that. If the fixings are going to be seen it may be neccesary to cut some plasterboard out and fix a noggin where you need the fixing and reboard and fill over. Depending on the strength of fixing required there are some very good heavy duty plasterboard fixings available though.
French cleats; can get thinner metal versions used for kitchen cabinets.
@@asilver2889 what? the thinner top or bottom? 😭
@@Dragon-Slay3r Kitchen unit hangars (metal) use same french cleat principle. Newer kitchen units have a hanging clamp device, I don't know what it's called, which hooks on and into the metal strip. This means that the strips can first be screwed firmly to studs and so weaker plasterboard fixings not needed. Work great, but harder to find. IKEA do some, I got mine from Azn.
@@asilver2889 to me everyone and everybody is clear I don't really care don't get caught up in the game everyone should just leave to get the people at the bottom of the chain is not possible as all different levels have been covered
Well deserved on the 100k
Thanks
Yes pal, will be sharing this with everyone I know...
100k already.... Epic.
Thank you
It just keeps getting better! Great video. 🙂
Thank you
Congrats on the 100k subs!! Love the channel and all the tips. Now I just need to find the time to do all that needs doing around the house!! Keep it up.
That is always the biggest challenge
ANy good tips for lath and plaster walls. Keep up the good work.
The way lath and plaster is constructed together with its age I wouldn't trust it for anything more than a light picture. I have no suggestions on how to give it strength I'm afraid other than putting something on its surface
Brilliant!
My new home is dry lined, if only I knew this trick a while back but will use this method in the future.
Glad it was helpful!
Well done mate.
Huge congratulations on the award 😊👍
Thank you so much 😀
Great series of videos, much appreciated
Thought I knew it all but this was a great tip, will definitely be using it. Nice one Stuart keep up the good work.
Thank you
Proper DIY? Pure common sense more like.... shame I'd never considered this!
Congrats on surpassing 100k subscribers, and congrats on another great video.
Thank you
Brilliant idea and it worked perfectly for me. Thanks for the upload! 👍🏻
Congrats on the 100k button!
Thank you
Awesome video Stuart, I have never thought of doing this before... makes so much sense.... well done on 100k subs and keep up the videos.
Thanks 👍
Another very informative video and congrats on the final piece of artwork!
Thanks
Good tips as usual Stuart. When time is limited, a tube of resin anchor is the bomb when you need to get things sorted fast. 👌
Totally agree - a resin anchor is as strong as you are ever going to get - as long as you don't want to take it away
@@ProperDIY I love the refillable tube idea. I didn’t know you could get those. 👍
Great video and advice. Well done on the 100k play button.
Thank you
Great tip, which I will use in a couple of weeks to rehang telly. Perfect timing!
Glad it was helpful!
You are a true genius. Thanks for sharing 👍
This has to be one of the best tips I have come across in years. I was wondering if you could use expanding foam instead as it cures very quickly and is very firm when set. Plus it a lot less fiddley than your method, of could you do a test with expanding foam as I'm sure it would be very interesting.
Yes I'm sure you could. Good idea about doing a trial
Great video Stuart, and Congrats on the 100k 👌
Thank you
Great video and very timely as I'm getting a new TV for the bedroom shortly and will no doubt have this problem!! 👍
Glad it helped
Brilliant video, brilliant ending!
Thank you
Congratulations pal on 100k subs
Thanks
Great video with excellent “behind the scenes” close ups. However, this is very time consuming and there is a delay between prepping and fixing.
I always use wooden dowels cut to length to make contact with the wall and finish flush to the face of the plasterboard.
The centre of the dowel is drilled out to provide a clearance hole for the screw and when the object is screwed to the wall through the dowel spacer/packer there is no load on the plasterboard. Never had a failure yet (this quote was not attributed to the Captain of the Titanic!)
Just found your channel and finding it interesting, thanks for your input.
Congrats on reaching 100k subscribers
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Great Vid Stu, loved the ending, nice one👍🔨🧱
Glad you enjoyed it
I've had a lot of success recently using this and similar methods. Also with soudal plasterboard adhesive spray foam, dries solid and expands to fill gaps in the cavity, however I was careful to not use too much.
So that adhesive is essentially a replacement for the dot and dab adhesive too? That makes so much sense!
@@cannontrodder Yes, I think people see foam as the newer way to attach plasterboard as its easier, faster and usually less mess. I found that most of the boards on certain walls in my house were only attached with a few dabs of plaster which caused cracks and boards to be able to be even pushed in on the joins. The foam did the job to fix it for me :)
I don’t have dot and dab walls but whilst watching the video this is exactly what i thought i would do. That soudal foam is such a good product, no foam gun needed, costs £8 and u can close it up and use it again another day, Ive reopened one a couple a months later after 1st use and was just like a new tube.
Absolute genius. So simple and well explained
Glad you liked it
Congratulations for this heavy achievement 👍👍
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Hi Stuart
Wow mate iv been in the trade now since I was a teenager and that is a lot of years now lol ,this has got to be the best solution I’ve ever seen, I’m really impressed mate I’m definitely going to use this next time I’m in a predicament… really great video my mate thank you 👍👍👍👍
Thank you very much
Great idea. Do you need to make a hole in the filler bag so it squeezes out the end?
This is a great idea if you have time for the filler to dry - it's cheap too! Dryline Pro or Corefix are both good with no waiting time required (as long as you have some!)
I have time
Congratulations once again!
Thank you so much 😀
Ingenious idea. Lot cheaper than Corefix fixings, although not as quick.
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Congratulations on your you tube button, well deserved. Is there a possibility that you could do another film on fixings on a timber frame house as that is what most houses are built out if here in New Zealand, I always want to hang something where there is no timber to screw to and am always disappointed with my failures.
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A simple solution if what you’re hanging is relatively wide is to screw a piece of ply onto two adjacent studs and use it as a pattress to then screw your object to.