How to Fix into Dot & Dab/ Dry Lined Walls
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- In today's video I will be showing you a really secure way to fix heavy objects into dot and dab drylined walls.
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TODAY'S TOOLKIT
- Corefix Original 24 pack trade box geni.us/vGB3wLX (Amazon)
- Corefix Original 4 pack geni.us/4Qp5O6S (Amazon)
- Corefix Plus 30 (120mm screws) 4 pack geni.us/OSIF (Amazon)
**The Amazon links above are affiliate links. It doesn't cost you anything to click on them but I do earn a small commission if you do.
And here's the legal bit I have to state: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I was recently approached by METEX who asked if I would be prepared to do a video on their drylined heavy duty fixing COREFIX. I'm always sceptical of these requests. I don't get paid for any of these tests and so it has to be a good one to convince me to do a video - as quite frankly I have far too many projects of my own queueing up around the house.
But this one was interesting - not least because it suggested there was a solution to situations where you're trying to get a heavy object to fix onto a plasterboard wall where you have a void behind the plasterboard. You have a void where the plasterboard is either glued to the wall with plasterboard adhesive (dot and dabbed) or where the plasterboard is mechanically fixed to steel or wood battens on the wall.
The fixing is substantial - it requires a 10mm diameter drill bit, but the clever thing is that it has a steel core that you insert into the wall plug. This steel core stops the fixing from buckling and pulling the screw into the wall, which basically creates a very strong bridge across the void behind the plasterboard.
Don't take my word for it. Watch my vid and see what you think!
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Charlie DIYte
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Every time I come across a diy problem in my house.... Charlie has a video for it !
Yey, that's what I want to hear!! These wall plugs are excellent, I've got to say. Thanks so much for the comment 👍
I bought a box of these from Amazon after watching this video and I’m really impressed with them. I hesitated because of the price, which was £19.50 for 24 fixings, but figured that if they worked it would be a one-off cost. I am an extreme novice when it comes to even the most basic DIY but these were simple to use and they work brilliantly.
Highly recommended.
Really glad to hear it - thanks for taking the time to comment!
Hi there and really glad you like our fixings, please spread the word to friends and family
I used these fixings to hang kitchen cabinets on dot and dab walls with brickwork behind the void. They are SOLID. I reckon the house would fall down before the cabinets make the plasterboard bow!
Great channel, I really like the style of your videos 👌
Thanks Johnathan and we're delighted to get such positive feedback on our Corefix product
Update on my previous comment.... bought two boxes of 24 of these off amazon as I needed to hang new wall cupboards in my new kitchen extension. Lightweight blocks on inner skin with dabbed plasterboard. Ok I could have used their “corefix air” variety but these were just superb into my walls... probably gone way overkill by using a bead of “sticks like” down the back of the wall cupboards as an extra measure but they ain’t going nowhere anytime soon! Finally a solid fixing developed by a company!
Hi Charlie. Just want to say a big thanks for unloading such a clear and useful video on the Corefix fixings. Our house was built with dot and dab walls and I have just hung a radiator using these fixings as it had pulled from the original ones used during the original build. Corefix is definitely up to the job!
Great to hear it Stuart. It's an awesome fixing, isn't it, and perfect for jobs like that!
I’m hanging a 1400mm wide T22 radiator for a customer tomorrow. It’s on a dot and dab wall, so I bought a box of these. Have to say, I’m quite excited about using them! Great video. Thanks.
I bought these today and now have my TV hanging on a cantilever bracket. Can't thank you enough for the information in this video. Really appreciate it. Thank you!!
I've watched a few of your videos now and I always find them to be super helpful and clear. Thank you for what you do, it's helped me with a few projects in my flat that I am completely renovating! Thanks!!
Thanks Phil, I really appreciate that and I'm chuffed you find my vids useful. 👊🙏
@Charlie DIYte I've used these to install a bathroom cabinet which, after installing I had to take down again. On putting it back up, one of the screw's is just spinning and isn't securing the cabinet in place. Do you have any ideas on how to fix that?
I managed to get this problem sorted for anyone else who's had the same issue. I put a couple of cocktail sticks inside the wall plug itself. I'm guessing the cocktail sticks have helped to bridge the gap between the screw and the wall plug. It's now rock solid! Thanks to Charlie for all his help!
Charlie you are doing amazing job by doing these videos. I personally have been following your channel for quite sometime now. I have learnt a lot from your videos. It’s quite sad to see such companies who do not pay you for demonstrating their products. They should realise that their product is being watched globally. I am in Melbourne so you know it really is hitting the globe mate.
This product is absolutely brilliant if shown by a well experienced and knowledgeable person like you otherwise it’s just an another product sitting on shelves.
Hopefully you get looked after in future. Keep up the good work Charlie. 😊👍👌🔨🔩
Thanks Richy. Wow - all the way from Melbourne. Chuffed about that, not to mention jealous of you living over in Oz! I really appreciate your support, mate, and I'm glad you've found my videos useful! It's fine (though I appreciate your concern). I think you have to have quite a massive subscriber base before they start paying. Either that, or I'm missing a trick 😦 Thanks again and hopefully catch up again soon. Got plenty of videos in the pipeline!
@@CharlieDIYte plus 1 to you Charlie, from Saudi Arabia
@@Buddy-po4hv Wow! I'm humbled you're watching my videos all the way out there - and massive thanks for the sub!!
I, was thinking the same thing. I am in Los Angeles so the global impact is relevant. Demonstration by a competent person active in the trade these products apply is what convinced me to consider purchasing this product. It really is a valuable way to promote their product and increase their revenue. Seems only fair to consider the percent of value and break off a piece to those responsible for monetary gain.
I swear this could be the best channel on youtube...oddly hypnotic to watch and great attention to detail on all the jobs you do,im even starting to view videos of jobs ill never do lol
I very rarely comment on videos but I feel so annoyed on your behalf Charlie as I am new to your channel after looking up how to fix into plasterboard walls and now I'm considering buying this product. I would not know it existed if it had not been for you, this company is going to get sales because of you so they should be paying you, I have seen videos from other RUclipsrs giving advice about how to negotiate and not be taken advantage of by these companies, so it may be worth your while checking them out?! Your videos are excellent and your demonstrations so clear and easy to follow for a newbie like me in my first house, it makes me sad that you are not being fairly paid for bringing these products to people's attention. Thank you for all that you are teaching me:)
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
Fantastic!
Bought the Corefix Air fixings as a result of your video to fix a television to a bedroom wall. They were easy to install and the tv fittings feel very secure. I am very grateful for your video and will use these fixings from now on when considering mounting anything of weight to this type of walling.
Really glad to hear they worked well - thanks for letting me know 👍🏻
Used the corefix fixings to hang a 48kg radiator Worked great solid fixings
Your videos should be a must watch for all college students learning building work.
Thanks buddy. I'm doing a plaster board fixing update in November 👍
Man you've really just solved my issue that I've had for a few weeks now for my bike mount where I have a plasterboard then a void followed by brick! Thanks dude! 👏🏻👏🏻
These are great. They'll totally sort that problem. 👍🏻
Even without plasterboard gap or dab type environments - these are awesomely strong fixings for weak thermoblock substrata. I just fitting suspended shelving in my garage using these into thermoblock and coach bolts into the ceiling joists - super impressed
Hello Charlie I have just subscribed to your channel after watching this video on corefix a very through demonstration on this product I bought this product for the first time today 04/11/23 from Screwfix as I want to hang a television on the wall so this is dot and dab plasterboard fixing I have bought 100mm fixing for hanging a television I think this is the best fixing I can get my hands on I am but no means a DIY person but this is something I have wanted to do for ages I have chosen this design because it will get into the thermalites behind the plasterboard as you stated in another video if you want to hang something heavy on a wall like plasterboard you need to get into the wall itself and I think this is the best fixing for that good video nice to see what is going on behind the plasterboard I really am not a DIY person but I now feel more confident with this fixing
Thanks Charlie, plumbers seem to be using these quite a lot as apposed to Rawbolts for hanging boilers to the wall. I bought some for my lads shop but the walls are so old and crumbling they didn’t work NOT the fault of the fixing. Having used them elsewhere I confirm they are pretty good for their intended purpose and very strong. Great vid. Regards Mike
Great video Charlie. Looks like a good product but I've a suggestion for you that's cheaper, faster, and simpler. Use an 8mm bit. Drill in till you hit brick and get your depth, then go in another 40-50mm or so into the brick. Bang an 8mm express nail of the appropriate length (around 70mm depending on the depth of the cavity) through the hole tight in to the brick, till its flush with the surface of the plasterboard and grabbing about 30mm of the masonry, then stick an ordinary 6mm red rawl plug into the hole in the centre of the express nail, & fix your bracket or whatever into the rawl plug with the appropriate screw fixing. Rock solid fixing and the brick and express nail bears all the weight without pulling on the plasterboard. Once the rawl plug expands in the express nail from the outward pressure caused by the screw threads going into it, it's going nowhere.
Brilliant videos and advice. I am a complete DIY numpty, seriously useless and generally get very stressed. However these fixings videos into plasterboard have been amazing and I feel more confident now in the jobs Ihave to do.
So glad to hear that Chris. Keep up the good work. 👌👊
I can vouch for these fixings, I've hung some big televisions to dot and dab walls with these. Very strong fixings.
They're awesome, aren't they! 👍🏻
Brilliant fixings, I've been drilling a hole through the plaster board, filling with Gripfill (other gap filling adhesives are available ;-)), coming back when dry and re-drilling through the Gripfill into the substrate and plugging through - my theory being the Gripfill will not compress and will be strong enough to support the fixing. Seems to work but it's a time consuming 2 stage process and I normally do it over 2 days. Just ordered some of these fixings from Amazon. Thanks Charlie.
I saw another video on "Proper DIY"'s channel that said the same thing. Although he used Diall's Interior Powder Filler because the stuff like Gripfill requires air / evaporation to cure, which takes ages in the void, whereas the powder stuff is a chemical reaction between the powder and water and so it'll happily set even in a sealed environment.
The cons of this approach are you need to squeeze in the mixture yourself by getting an empty caulk cartridge somehow.
Charlie you have another subscriber. I can’t tell you how much your fixing videos have helped me. I have recently moved into a new build house with partition walls and didn’t know where to start with fixing heavy items. Thanks to your videos I have successfully fitted two heavy bathroom cabinets. I agreed about the butter like block walls too so this video is another huge help so thank you again 😀
Mr H, can't thank you enough for subscribing! It's very humbling to receive comments like yours, and is TOTALLY the reason why I keep doing this. So massive thanks, and good luck with the rest of your DIY! Drop me a line any time if you need any advice, but you may need to give me a kick, as there's quite a lot of traffic through all the social media these days, and I tend to miss messages! Thanks again!!
Really good demonstration of a long needed solution to hanging heavy objects on dot and dab -thanks. Hanging kitchen wall units on dot and dab is ten times easier with these - and as you've fixed to Celcon blocks and still got a good hold, that's a recommendation in itself, because they're notoriously soft, and even ordinary wall plugs will spin without gripping often.
Thanks John. I think all plugs are problematic in soft thermalite style bricks but the steel core helps. The other option for belt and braces is frame fixings as the Corefix is sometimes not long enough. It's fine for standard dot and dab walls though.
Got a room with thick Victorian plaster, then a layer of soft insulation (mineral fibre tiles bonded to the walls), followed by a plaster skim. That makes the walls pretty fragile. Tried out Corefix on your recommendation to put up some heavy shelves, and it is brilliant. Absolutely no pressure on the thin skim, no cracks, rock solid shelves. Thank you for your honest, practical and informative reviews.
Cheers Jason! Thanks for taking the time to comment - it makes a massive difference in terms of keeping me motivated!! Yes, they're awesome, aren't they! I introduced our fitter who helps me with the curtain installs to Corefix and he's never looked back since.
This is the problem I'm having but putting up curtain brackets instead would you recommend these fittings ??
Hello Charlie thanks to this video I found the solution to hanging a heavy -ish double panel radiator in the bedroom on a dot and dab wall. saved me after hours of frustration.
You're welcome. Yes they're great for that 👏👌
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks again .Such helpful content.
Dude you should be getting paid from these products! Super helpful tutorial - thanks for teaching me how
I need to get me some of these... seen them about and would come in handy when I’m fixing to god awful old plasterboard dabbed onto masonry with plaster as the properties I look after are around 45 years old and build like Lego houses haha! Nice honest review video👍
Just the job. Thanks for this,I have to hang quite a heavy cabinet in our bathroom,have done it ...seems secure,but will remount with these. Price is worth peace of mind.
Richard just take a quick look at this too ruclips.net/video/Jdu9RId7m90/видео.html Yes definitely Corefix or Rigifix if you have wall close behind the Plasterboard. If not, Geefix is the strongest option.
I’ve used these a few times to hang some really heavy shelves and think they are brilliant the shelves feel really solid and will never budge , I always have some of these to hand now. Thanks for the video
Exactly what I have been looking for to hang very heavy mirror a similarly constructed wall where I can't hit a stud. Good video. Just ordered a 4 pack.
Brilliant video! Had quite a bit of anxiety on how to hang my guitar wall mount on our dot and dab wall but this has answered any questions I had and settled any worries! Great work 👍
Nice one Charlie, this is exactly what im looking for to hang my TV. Super explanation. Thank you 👍🏼
Yes, it'll be great for that! Thanks for the comment!
Would this be stronger than the geefix charlie? Have a canterlever bracket for my 50inch tv and want to use the strongest fixings
Another solution which is what I do, is to squirt a generous amount of expanding foam into the hole, let it cure which adequately supports the plaster board and then use a plug into the solid wall and a long screw. The same as you first demonstrated - but with foam.
Admittedly this isn’t quick because of the time for the foam to cure, but the plasterboard doesn’t deform and it’s cheap requiring no expensive fittings.
Anyway just a thought. 😊
Hi there and yes there are many 'work arounds' as you mention but none of these are as quick and easy to use as Corefix, give them a try we're pretty sure you won't be disappointed!
Thanks Charlie, really good to know, I've moved into a house full of dot & dab walls. My garage is made of the same blocks as yours & incase you've not discovered them yet, Tillex TIL390001 rawl plugs work really well. I know you can screw directly into the brick but if you wanna fix an electrical socket or something else that might work loose then these plugs work great. You probably already know about them but maybe it helps someone else reading here.
Thanks, that's a great recommendation. For the dot and dab Rigifix are also meant to be good. A competitor to Corefix but I haven't tried them. 👍
I generally agree with your stance here, of not reviewing random products unless you see an actual need for it - there's a difference between being free marketing, vs showing a product you think your viewers will actually find useful
Thanks. I couldn't endorse something I didn't rate, just because I was being paid to do it. Call me uncommercial, but that's just the way I roll. These have been brilliant, I use them all the time now.
I have been searching for the best way to put up shelves in my “home office” with dot and dab pb! I am so impressed with not only this product (I will be ordering some) but I just had to click subscribe. Many thanks
I just fitted a handrail on a dob and dab wall,I used 8mm x60 wall plugs with some Sticks like s**t grab adhesive squirted in the hole.it sets in 15mins. Then i hammered red wall plugs into them with a bit of superglue. Handrail is now super solid😊👍👍
Good work Steve. I'm never sure about hammering reds into an existing plug (because of the chance they could pull out, not having great traction against the plug) but by adding super glue you're dealing with my concern 👍
Thanks for the video. I recently had to hang a TV on a similar studded wall with a 30mm cavity and block-work below. I used anchor bolts with a home-made sleeve to stop the plasterboard bending for that job and it worked a treat, but was very time consuming to do. This is a million times easier!
I have just ordered a couple of boxes for a shelf-hanging DIY job the Mrs has been nagging me about for ages. Again it's on a stud wall with block below and the thought of making 30 sleeves myself (10 London shelf brackets in all) was putting me off doing the job.
You won't be disappointed Rick. Even the fitter who works a lot with me, who is pretty sceptical about anything he doesn't currently use was well impressed with these. Good luck - let me know how you get on.
@@CharlieDIYte They worked really well (120mm "air" version) . There is a small amount of flex on the plasterboard as you mentioned but we're talking maybe 0.5 to 1mm. I popped one PB fixing and there's a tiny crack showing on a joint between 2 sheets but that's it. Easily remedied with a some filler and paint. 10 London brackets / 2 shelves put up very solidly on a wall that was previously unusable.
I'd make a couple of improvements/fitting recommendation changes to the product though...
1. rather than having a stepped flange on the plug I'd make it countersunk so it could easily be made to sit flush with the surface rather than standing proud a couple of mm. Not a problem when the wall is going to be skimmed later but on a finished wall it would help, and
2. when installing the plugs and then inserting the sleeves, I found a couple of times where I'd drilled the holes a few mm too deep that when tapping in the sleeve, the plug would bounce slightly in the plasterboard and leave a mark. Might even crack the PB if you're a bit ham-fisted. I found that by inserting the sleeve into the plug before putting the plug in the wall this didn't happen and the final result was easier to get right.
Overall I'm very impressed and they saved me a whole load of time and hassle. Thanks for the recommendation!
This is timely for me. I’ll be putting up some boarding using dab and dot against a stone wall and will need to mount various bathroom fittings against it. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for this great video. I had this problem when fixing a handrail. I caused the plasterboard to bow in. I had to remove the handrail and fixing and pull the plasterboard out. Then somehow I managed to get some Pollyfilla in the gap between the plasterboard and the bricks. Once the Pollyfilla was completely hard, I was able to put in plugs and re-attach the handrail with some long screws. The whole thing was a massive pain and I wish I had known about this Corefix product.
Great video and great product, Couldn't be happier with my wall mounted TV cabinet fixed with these!
Thank you!!! This is what I've been looking for! ☺️☺️
You're welcome. It's a fantastic plug 👍
I used these bad boys for fixing a heavy fireplace and a tv above it on dot and dab. I’m a complete beginner and borrowed a powerful drill for the brick drilling but managed to get the job done and both appliances are totally stable.
Glad to hear it Rick. They're awesome aren't they 👍
Learned something new. I've only ever lived in older builds, so haven't come across this issue, but can totally see how it could be a PITA. Fixings look decent #thumbsup
Charlie never fails. Thanks again. Needed some help in fixing heavy item on dot and dab wall. Boom. There is a video by Charlie to save. :)
Thanks Vassy. The alternative to Corefix is Rigifix which are also meant to be good but I haven't done a video on them.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks Charlie ♡♡
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie. A polite video request please. Can you do a video on the different type of screws you have and their uses? As a new diyer that would be very useful. Thanks ♡♡
What an awesome video, thanks for taking the time!! Brilliant and honest. Cheers Jase 👍
Thanks Jason. This update is the one you want to watch ruclips.net/video/Jdu9RId7m90/видео.html 😉👍
@@CharlieDIYte thanks mate, watched the other one and it’s brilliant. Exactly what I needed. Thanks and happy new year 👍
Thanks Charlie for the video, really clear, concise and easy to understand. I'm considering hanging a TV on a dry lined wall so the Corefix fittings seem ideal.
Excellent demonstration video. Thanks.
I will definitely use this fixing for my radiators.
I just used 6 x M6 Rigifix fixings to fit a TV into an alcove that is attached to a bracket that stands over 300mm and then turns approx 60 degrees into the room. The TV is 47” and once it’s out and angled towards the two seater sofa it’s a long way at its farthest point from the wall.
I think they take up 140kg per anchor so that’s 840kg of weight bearing. I did look at these but the construction of the Rigifix to me looked a lot more solid.
I intend to use them again for a large picture I’m putting up, Im not put off by what you’ve used here though they look like a good product too but I think the Rigifix pip them to first place.
I'm also a professional curtain and blind fitter and I'm also endorsing this product. It does give an amazing fixing although (as someone else mentioned) the lip does make whatever you are attaching stand a mm or 2 proud.
why don't you countersink the hole, i.e. make it a mm deep into the plaster board?
Thank you for another excellent video and for supplying Amazon UK links which practically no one has the good sense to consider those not living in the USA. 🖒
Thanks for this. We just moved form a 1970's house t a new build so had never had to work with dot and dab plaster board before. You are right these fixings worked really well when screwing to the outside wall, but when I tried to use them to an interior block wall, the screw is not doing up completely tight.
The original ones were for heavy curtain poles, and I was working above my head but I couldn't turn them any harder, these problem ones are at shoulder height so I was able to get more purchase, but there is definitely less resistance.
I would love to know why this could be so if anybody has a clue or what I can do to fix it that would be great, but thanks again, your videos are to the point, easy to understand and I have learnt so much from them.
I think the problem is the thermalite or similar soft brick. It's not providing the appropriate compression for the screw. Have you tried Rigifix fixings. Similar idea to Corefix but slightly different design. I haven't tried them as yet but they might give you a tighter fix. Failing that, did you experiment with a slightly smaller diameter drill? This is always tricky as if the brick is half decent it won't let you hammer in anything other than the right diameter plug. If the brickwork is very soft though it might work. You could also pipe some epoxy resin into the hole before you push the fixing in, and wait for it to set before fastening the screw in.
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie, thanks for the reply and I agree about the different density blocks. I haven't tried anything else yet as I don't have enough room to re-drill the holes and what ever I do next might be my last shot, but I agree about the resin and will buy a tube next time I go to Screwfix.
Talking of whom, they are out of stock of Corefix 100mm fittings just about everywhere in the south midlands.
BTW I bought a Rawlplug Anchor fixing setting tool on your advice and its the best £12 I have spent for years. Drill the hole, put the anchor in the tool, push it in hole, pull the trigger 5 times and perfect fitting every time.
Have a good 2022, I wish I have found your videos a few years ago when I was getting our last house ready for sale!
@@CharlieDIYte I bought the Rigifix, but they are shorter than the corefix so I was concerned that they would go too far back, and not leave enough "meat" for the screw to dig in. I don't have enough wiggle room to move the fixings more than a cm so I went for the resin option.
The screws are much tighter now, however I reckon I could still turn them manually if I tried.
I am using these to hold up spur shelving which means the screws are not going in as far as all the others, I tried a 120 but that was still proud. If I was starting over I think I would be tempted to use a 120 and recess the plug into the wall, and just leave the steel sleeve up to wall level.
If the shelves come down I will let you know, assuming I can get wifi from the shed which is where I would be sleeping if that happens.
I've done more of this than I've had hot dinners, never come across these fixings. They look good. Dot & dab walls usually only have a 10mm gap maximum between plasterboard and block so the way that you showed at the beginning usually works fine. If I used them I'd cut the head of the fixing off as it holds the bracket off the wall.
Thanks and we think so as the manufacturer!!, be great for you to give them a try when you can :)
having worked in building for over 30 years, I have to say this is a great product - wish I'd invented it ! Having said that, for lighter requirements like lightly loaded shelves, I'll stick to frame fixings as they are much lower in price
Yes, I've used frame fixings a lot in this scenario too 👍🏻
Charlie, very informative, polite and educational!! Good work
Ironically I Just stumbled across this video while watching Clay pigeon shooting! I'm looking at this exact scenario in the next couple of days and was just going to use the Grey frame fixings you showed, not now.... I will be sourcing some of the products in the demo, thanks Charlie for the great video 👌
You're welcome - massive thanks for the comment!
bikeronnie Snap, I was looking for something to fix my cabinet with as well.
Super video with excellent, interesting narration
Thanks Marcus 👊
I needed these a few weeks ago for a TV bracket I had to fit to a D&D wall.. Great to know they work. Thanks for the demo 😀
Don't ever seen thermal lite before & DANG, that stuff is like butter, lol...... Don't even need diamond carbide tip etc....to drill into that it seems. Would be cool to see some more vids like this.
Pretty nifty tool.
I am an ex Building Survey (retired) and recently needed to fix a shower grab bar on an external wall that is tiled on plasterboard backed, I suspect, by some sort of dry lining The plasterboard and dry lining is 25 mm and the surface tiles 10 mm.
What a pain! Can't safely fix to the tiles and plasterboard as the tiles are very brittle (I have used old tiles in the past as a tell tale for detecting the slightest structural movement / crack monitoring). Can't fix to the masonry substrata as tightening up the fixing will simply draw the tiled/plasterboard towards the substrata and again cause flexing, which again is likely to crack those brittle tiles!
Then I saw Charlie's DIYte video. I ordered the Metal Corefix Standard Heavy Duty Dot & Dab Wall Fixings, but still couldn't believe I could fix (and use) a grab rail without damaging the tilework, but the job had to be done. So, I went ahead and was quite prepared for the tiles to crack and some point and have to sort the mess out from there.
Two hours later and the grab rail is fixed as solid as you like with all the load seemingly being transmitted back directly to the masonry substrata. What an excellent product and an excellent video from Charlie. Well done all !
Michael, it's wonderful comments like this that inspire me to keep doing these videos. Massive thanks and I'm really glad you found my vid on this great product so useful!
@@CharlieDIYte My inlaws need a grab rail in their shower, but it is a pebble wall (pebble, I kid you not) which I believe was lined with hardboard, then tiled on and later covered with plastic. What fixing would you recommend?
@@graememcgregor8407 Hi Graeme, I've been mulling this over the last few days. I suppose the first question is are you ok penetrating through the plastic? I guess needs must if you're installing a grab rail? I think your first task is to navigate through all those different materials. I'd use an Armeg bit to drill through the tiles and then maybe a universal drill bit (Bosch do a good range) to drill through everything else. As to what fixing you should use it depends on the depth and how good a fixing you get (how good the structure of the wall is/ and or whether the pebbles throw the drill bit out of line and leave you with a really big hole) but yes the Corefix would give you a really secure fixing. I'd probably go for this just because of the depth it gives you and how the steel core would allow you to bridge all those substrates whilst getting a really tight hold that doesn't pull the wall back.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks for all of that, very much appreciated (Y)
Great idea, for years I've seen people do similar with an offcut of tubing around the screws cut to the depth of the void and board. All these ideas are great but always a touch too expensive. I fit a lot of kitchen wall units on dot n dab and these would cost quite a bit to do an average set of wall units. Id be interested to see what they're like in the flesh though, if they are really worth the extra cost.
Nice vid, thanks. In this situation I would only use these for the highest loads, I use cut-off plugs (v cheap) to whatever length is needed (as long as poss), measured with a piece of wire, and they are flush with the board. In extremis, I will cut a small hole and push in as much pbd adhesive as I can, smooth it, & drill/fix the next day.
Thanks Charlie. Your videos are always very clear and informative. Could you do a video on fixing into Insulated Plasterboard please?
He did do a video on gefix/geefix showing them going into insulated plasterboard (it's what I was looking for too).
I have a setup similar to yours but instead of the 12mm plasterboard slab in your video I have a 50mm insulated slab, with a 25mm void to the concrete wall at the back. Will these screws do the job?
These look really good. It appears from the video that the any weight applied to the bracket doesn't really directly get passed to the plasterboard, but instead is supported by the fixing and it's collar, which are mounted into the wall, hence why the plasterboard doesn't give way when you apply pressure. I'll certainly be getting some of these to keep in the garage.
That's absolutely right. I was genuinely pulling down on that bracket at the end, with all my might!
I've just used these to hang a 65" TV to a dot and dab wall. These are rock solid fixings. I was really impressed.
@@johndaniells4440 100 or 120mm?
Thanks charlie this is just what i need for fitting my sink on to a battened wall.. Keep up the great content.
A great demonstration and test. Now i know what a door & dab wall is. The product looks amazing.
Charles Arnold , actually you don’t,it’s a dot and dab wall lol.
Great video Charlie. Hope these will come in handy for mounting a heavier kitchen extractor. The original one was lighter and used screwworms (kind of surprised it stayed up). Thanks
Just subscribed! i moved to a newly built apartment and i hope your vids will help me put up some shelvings. I got all the tools just need to know how to use some of them. 🤙🏼
Thanks so much Mary, and get in touch if you've got any queries!
Thanks for the demo.
My spin on this problem that avoids any flex of the plasterboard would be to sink a regular plug beyond the void and fully into the fixing material behind as you described in the video, then insert up to the head of that wall plug an externally threaded steel sleeve that is ideally sized to sit flush with the surface of the plasterboard or just beneath (similar to the Corefix sleeves used in the video, but threaded) and then to add an internally threaded pressed steel 'top hat' on the sleeve so the 'brim' sits on the plasterboard (similar in appearance to the head of a Screwfix Easyfix Wall Anchor but without the ’teeth’). The load is held off the underlying plasterboard by a ‘best fit’ length of sleeve capped with load-spreading collar (the ‘top hat brim’) that is screwed onto the sleeve to achieve an EXACT length between the surface of the plasterboard and the underlying fixing material (since the depth in the void often varies). The 'top hat' need only be 1cm high (to screw onto the sleeve and sink through the plasterboard) with a 1cm diameter brim. Not so easy to describe this in words, but I hope readers get the idea. Maybe Corefix will consider this idea.
Thanks for the comment! You've put some thought into that! That would certainly work but why reinvent the wheel when the Corefix basically does the same job?
Just not convinced the Corefix solution will stop distortion of the plasterboard Charlie unless the void is a consistent depth, which in my experience is typically not the case and maybe a cheaper solution than Rigifix Heavy Duty Plasterboard Dry Wall Fixings which would be my go-to solution for heavier loads.
Very good Charlie, just moving to a new build so I am trying to assess the best options and you have provided me with severy very helpful solutions in all you videos
This was a really helpful video for me as I wanted a belt and braces fix to some elements board. Many thanks 🙏
Thanks Mahesh. Really glad you found it useful. 🙏
Thanks Charlie you answerd all the questions I had about these fixings, even a few questions I didn't know. Thanks again
Good video - thank you. Look to be great pieces of kit.
Thanks Paul. 👍 Yep it's a nice piece of kit and impressed one of my fitters on site recently enough for him to go out and buy himself a box - which for him is quite something!!
Just what ive been looking for to put a 1800 x600 double rad on dot & dab wall. 😊
EXCELLENT video! Bought the product because of it. Exactly what I needed.
What I'm hanging next is much heavier and dynamic (~12.5 Kg monitor on a wall mounted swing arm).
The void is 30mm, plasterboard thickness is ~0.5 inches, so only 7-8mm of the metal collar will be in the masonry block (actually, just like in your video).
Think it'll hold, or would buying metal collars, cut to 5.5-6cm for extra collar contact with block be safer?
Thanks for the informative vids!
Thanks Jermaine! No you should be fine with that. The point of the collar is really just to bridge the void. It doesn't need to go into the masonry by any particular distance. The important thing when you're hanging something heavy is to ensure there is enough of the actual plug going into the masonry and as you'll have about 50mm projecting into the masonry - as per the plug's design - that should be fine.
Charlie DIYte Got it. Thanks again!
Great fixings, which I use. My only (slight) gripe is the way they stand a little proud of the wall.
That was an issue i had when using these fixings but i simply used a multi tool and shaved fixing down level with the wall. Does not affect the peformance at all.
Well done! Very detailed
Thanks Michael 👍🏻
Thanks charlie, you do some great videos that really help .
You're welcome, thanks for the comment, Simon. Really glad you find the videos useful!
Legend! I'm having this exact problem with some dot & dab plaster in a new extension and so far everything has failed to hold. These look just the ticket! Found you through a Google search, but never seen your vids before. Have liked & subscribed!
Great vid of a common problem especially fitting tv wall brackets, another excellent product I have used is RigiFix which are very similar and come in many lengths & diameters 👌
Thanks Steve. I need to have a play with Rigifix. I like the fact they come in different levels too 👊
really clear video, I wonder would those fixings work on plasterboard on an Insulated Concrete Form (ICF) wall?
No, they wouldn't be long enough. They're only really suitable for DIY and dab applications.
They look really good. I have done something similar myself using aluminium tube and plugs, like a rough version of the corefix but it's a right faff to get right and still not as good as the corefix it seems. Thanks for the video.
they really ought to pay you! this was super useful and informative!!
I used the 120 mm ones to mount at a 55 inch tv on dot and dab. These where amazing....
Did you use a cantilever tv bracket?
Just a a cheap tv mount from Argos. Nothing special
Hey Charlie, well done for doing these videos. I used 4 inch bolts for hanging a stupidly heavy mirror on a plasterboard / batten / 9 inch brick wall. Wish I'd have used your corefix things instead, would have done the same job and easier to do. Keep em coming.
Another way is to drill a 6mm hole through the plasterboard only , then squirt in expanding foam , after the foam has set drill through the hole into the wall to the correct depth , hammer in a frame fix plug , and attach your load .
True. Except the foam nozzle is wider than 6mm and I always find that expanding foam is best used up in one go, so you're using a big can each time, potentially.
That's a good work around but we think you'll find that Corefix is far quicker and stronger - why not give them a try?
Great job love your videos easy to follow 😊
Just come across this video , very useful tips. I always find think though that the products are massive in size in comparison to the small screws that would be used if in a normal wall. The problem I have is in my house the internal walls have no block work and just the void between the board and the board on the room next door so these fixings are no use and up you have to use the other generally useless fixings instead. As soon as my wife says can you put a picture up and some shelves and can feel my blood starting to boil !
Yes, particularly gimmicks like the Gripit which I never rated because the hole you have to drill is far too wide considering the size of the wing that opens up behind. The Geefix on the other hand has a big old hole - 25mm I think but a huge wing behind. It's a superb fixing for very heavy stuff.
Great vid Charlie! Just thinking the majority of UK houses will be dot and dab, would be good to see a clip on a dot and dab wall. Never having done it, I was just wondering how it works when you have to go through the dab of adhesive, would this product still be best in that case? Maybe Corefix will pay for some plasterboard in your garage so you can show us that system :). Come on Corefix don't be mean!
Rigifix do a similar product with the metal collar. I used them to install a TV bracket onto a dot and dab wall. Have to say a brilliant product to over come the solution of cavity wall with a back insulated brick wall.
Dry line pro do a product slightly similar but without the metal collar. They incorporate a self drill end where you screw into which has a strong thick collar. Again good product to over come the same problem.
This product is really good. Used them loads of times.
Fantastic video, thank you very much!
You're welcome Phil. Update video coming next so keep an eye out for that.
@@CharlieDIYte i will do as im about to put up a 65” oled!
Corefix - pay the man.
Charlie the great
The fixing stuff Looks good and strong, but it should be much more expensive than standard but longer wall plug ,I prefer to fill the drilled hole with some expanding glue first ,then use standard wall plug.
Thank you for your videos.
Hi Mehran, let us know if you'd like some samples to try out, it might be better than waiting for glue to dry :)
Being a pretty advanced DIY’er I used these today to fix a pretty heavy radiator, fixed into dot and dab with thermolite blocks. Very disappointed as I could pull the rad brackets out with a little hand pressure. Thought I’d try a bigger screw (no.6 screw) to get more bite but the same again! Ended up using chemical fixings which are superb! I think maybe fixing into other substrate apart from thermolite these would work well but at £20 a box I’m a little disappointed ☹️
Charlie, I have plasterboard walls, fixed to the underlying bricks with adhesive. My issue is that my house is build of Spanish type brick, completely hollow and even at a slow drill speed the bricks tend to blow out when drilled into leaving me with no solid wall to fix into and not enough space for the new geefix you have shown. Any ideas how I could get a good fixing on this and not blow out the brick? Thanks
Very thoroughly done !
Thanks 👍