HOW TO DOT AND DAB | DIY Series | Build with A&E
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- In this episode John shows you How to Dot and Dab (Episode 2)
John takes you through the steps of dot and dabbing, getting you ready and prepped for the plaster boarding process.
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Tools
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Plasterers Trowel: amzn.to/3zmjNBi
Plaster board holder: amzn.to/3sTJ5mR
Plaster: amzn.to/3gQB7Yy
Bucket: amzn.to/3zmQpe6
Level: amzn.to/3SNjqGG
Rubber Mallet: amzn.to/3W5bgwt
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Nice job fella, despite all the the comments about using too much stuff, these are clearly from the ones who skimp on the manufacturers recommendations, whereas you follow these. If only all Plasterers followed your principles we would have many more airtight houses. And trust me, my company tests these for a living. Good job👍
I thought I’d just brush up on my dab skills by watching a quick RUclips video and all I can say is that chalk line is a game changer for me personally will be trying this tomorrow thanks 👌
Fantastic! I'm particularly impressed you knowing and stressing the fact there needs to be solid, continuous ribbon of adhesive and you correctly said why - smoke and fire AND air infiltration. Well done!
Thank you for watching! 👍
waste of time and money using that much dab, and as fire fire protection its pointless
Not really just about fire protection. This is about conservation of energy. I had an issue where my idiot plasterer didn't do what should have been done. You put your heating on in rooms like these and all that heat escapes through the gaps leaving you with cold room very quickly @@stuartjones2242
Now you know.
I am so happy I learned this secret UK technique. Here in US drywall is usually hung on masonry with a stud wall, but I've seen all sorts of stuff done to make it work, including normal roofing nails shot in while the foundation was curing, and then they pop out and the boards sag like crazy later. I did a small area repair with tile mortar spot bonding the drywall to masonry and it worked great. Such a good secret weapon to have, so to speak, this technique.
Hi GilBatesLovesyou,
It's great to hear that we've tought you something new. Hopefully you'll get to use this method in the future.
Thanks for watching.
All the best, John 😊
nice to see you're doing the work right there's not many of us left out there that do our work right a lot of people we learning the right way by watching your videos great stuff guys keep them up
One of the best informative carpenters I’ve ever seen. If not the best. Never learned so much so fast. Very good speaker as well
Thank you GOAT 👍
Easy peasy...god job lad. Would be nice to see a video showing the mixing process and explaining the consistency for the different products you use. Keep up the good work!
Great job mate although if my old man seen you hitting a level he would go ballistic even with a rubber mallet😂
wow, you guys made it look so easy! I gave this a go myself a few days ago.........
(need to get one board up for a radiator to go on so the plumber can finish up). In my house, every single wall is out, this particular wall had a doorway and a window filled in previously and poorly rendered over so its out at the top, the bottom and at the centre by about 5 inches!
I put high peaks of dot dab on the left side and a lot less on the right side for it to get rid of it being out so much, the issue i was having was that the board wanted to hug itself tight to the inside where the wall out be out so putting a straight edge across the board diagonally it looks to be caved inwards. so just a lot of trial and error pulling the board off, applying more stuff, trying again and did this about 4 times. almost 2 hours to do one board lol! when it started to go off, the board sucked inwards again so its off by about 3mm, going to try to make it mm perfect with more plaster in that area haha.
nightmare!
Like that you show how to do things the proper way. Proper wall prep, not skimping on the mix 👍
Glad you enjoyed it Stu 👍
Only it's not the proper way now is it, this is not dot and dab what he has done here is dabbed the wall, adhesive on the wall with (Packers Plasterboard) string line across vertical diagonal, now all your Packers are all plum level on straight, dub the wall press your plasterboard against the Packers until they stop, and that is it, that's why we call it dot and dab, I was taught this in the late 70s, absolutely amazes me how builders and plasterers at least 90% of them do not know how to dot and dab, you see "over the years we've taught our guys the principles and absolute basics of everything they can do in the building trade, and what we get these days is videos like this showing people how not to do something.
The brits know how to do construction 👍
Great job as usual like the way there’s never any unnecessary mess you work so clean and tidy
Thanks Merv James,
A tidy site is a happy site 😁
All the best, John 😊
The first video I’ve seen where fire has been mentioned. Well done that man. Loads of info in this video. You’ve a new subscriber. Cheers!
Bet the tilers love following you great job 👍
Good tip with the chalk line marking square probably easier then squaring it once it’s on the wall especially in an older property like this.
Good prep work and checking walls first like you have makes for an easier better job :)
Nice one John. I watched a few dot and dab and plastering videos.Your videos always give those few extra tips that the others don't. cheers.
Much appreciated Tony 👍
This and the how to plaster videos are the best on you tube! Top work made me want to have a go 👍🏻
Really interesting, I don't think we do this in the states - if we do, I've never seen it done before. You make this look easy getting the board plumbed up, but I'm sure it takes a lot of experience to know just how much of the cement to put down.
Thanks for the video guys, always have time to watch your videos, I'm a plumber by trade and I'm about to do this to my own bathroom, good tip about squaring it all up on the floor first.
Excellent video - really helpful and informative. Thanks !
Great video! I am a Mastic Man/Sealant Applicator. You’ve given me the confidence to do my own Dot n Dabbing at my house, thank you very much 🔥
Amazing work mate, wish i didnt have to watch it through a fishbowl lens though lol. looked like you had a really warped spirit level!
Mate i stick on site doing it your way I'll need about 200 bag of drywall for 0ne unit
Do it right fella, don't bodge it.
@@nick1of2 So many guys out there who are mindless monkeys and don’t “understand” what they are doing and the reasoning behind it. They just cut corners or saw the other guy do it that way so it’s correct.
You could of skimmed the wall with all that adhesive 😅
And that's why new builds are bodged by cowboys, any decent tradesman runs his own business
@@asef698 exactly new builds are an absolute disgrace nowadays, shocking workmanship !
I tell you what John, you're a dab hand at that!!!!
Only subscribed to your channel yesterday and learned loads already. Cheers
NHBC states a DAB every 450. Usually 4 rows per board.
Like you I always try to get a fairly solid boarder around the board especially top and bottom as you touched on for a fire break.
Love this channel, I can follow all your instructions perfectly.
Glad to hear it Robert 😊
All the best, John
These guys definitely did not do the dot and dab on my Barrett house, I think one bag of dab does four boards in here😫😫
Great job, well explained.👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
Barrett's for carrots they say prices are shite so everyone rushing like mad
Nice job that fella. Intresting I always put my spirit level on the end as well to make sure the boards not towing In or out. Plus I always get a square just to double check the corners Especially near skirting height.
Great video just what I need for tomorrow 👍
The tip about fire was a good one. I had a fire in my garage and it was the smoke that travelled through the house that caused the damage. I only had a small crack around the edge, but that air gap acted to accelerate the air. The fire retardant properties of gypsum plasterboard also saved the roof!
Excellent job ! 👏👏👏👏👏
Cracking video. Learnt so much thanku. Best wishes!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching! 👍
Great job fella. I’m a bit of a belt and braces man so I bang in some concrete screws when it’s dried into the dabs. Solid then especially when tiling on.
What a complete waste of time.
Top job lads
Thanks; Some extra detail that give help, like a quick lift to help tap in the bottom; id broken a few board trying to bash them in and though it was the dab behind. 😂
where can i get one of those never ending plaster buckets?
Wickes
New to this, helping my daughter renovate her first house. Would SBR be OK for sealing?
I waa going to use normal plaster board but learnt that you can use moisture & damp proof plaster boards for my kitchen, Thanks🖒
Hi Surj I’am glad you found them informative thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍
Cool stuff don't know what the thumbs down is about.
I was always told/ taught that you use 1 bag for 2 boards... not the other way round 😂
😂
Refer to manufacturer's recommendations, not what what you think
The added socket is in the square in the middle with the dot in the top left aka teabaging and dipping the left down first in the( tea aka behind the radiator thanks commenter
Like the idea of level an rubber mallet save on deafinin yourself and makes it alot easier
Really liked this video. Im going to be using the dot and dab method in my own bathroom very soon, ive not done it before so wish me luck. Your video covered all aspects of what needs to be done, tools, what a bag will cover etc. Very well explained too.
Hi Richard,
I'm glad you found the video enjoyable and informative.
I hope your bathroom goes well.
All the best, John 😊
@@BuildWithAE Alright John
I got the boards up on the wall and other than it being a bit messy (ive not done it before) it went well. The boards are still on the wall so its a bonus. Thanks for the videos guys, keep up the great work.
Nice one! I'm glad it went well 😁 thanks for letting us know.
All the best, John 😊
Clear and precise instructions - hot tats.
Great job mate 🏴
Thanks for watching! 👍
Thank you for this very helpful presentation.
Is the Cementone Stabilising Primer proper to use on block wall as a primer/sealer?
Wonderful tutorial! What happens if you have to join boards on the same wall?
Hey there, what should I use to attach hardiback / aquapanel to the brick ? is is drywall adhesive or tile adhesive and what type would you reccomend. Thanks
Great stuff by the way!
I like the extra key the green cemtone gives buts it's only for plaster apparently rep told me the other day they're only happy for us to use finish over it I'd stick to the blue grit for dotting over pal
if you beat in level it means that you are a good craftsman.😂
Nice job, not ideal for small bathrooms as it takes up some space, better off plastering but slows the job down. What is the name of the primer you use? Thx
Nice one mate, proper job.
Thanks 👍
excellent
Nice presentation to understand
You could make a tutor at college John you got the skills. Gonna do this dot & dab with soundproof board. Do you rate the stuff mate for helping with noise reduction ?
Just had a tiled section along the bath collapse, because of a failed silicone seal, leading to the dot n dabbed board cracking and falling into the voids. Gonna cobble it by cutting out the section, filling the voids with adhesive, putting a section of board in and sealing the edges n tiling on top. Going to prime the board with waterproof pva and then retile the 7 tiles with waterproof grout. I didn’t know that standard grout n fix, is water absorbant.🤷♀️🙄😆♥️
Thanks 🙏🏻
great video very well explained
Thanks Glen, much appreciated 👍
nice to see someone doing it right, l was taught 3 boards to a bag of compound, until l done a council job they said solid dab around each board and all cuts, especially around window and door reveals. it takes a lot more compound but best job, keep it up.
Hi David thanks for your kind words, glad you enjoyed the video all the best Tony 👍
Only needs solid dabs around wall perimeters floor ceiling and windows not every board
Plasterboard adhesive is designed for direct use on masonry backgrounds I’m pretty sure ?
With the chalk line , what determines the thickness of the wall and do you just measure say for example 30mm at bottom left of wall then 30mm at bottom right then ping a line ??
Not a fan of Dot and dab, but hey John masterclass made it interesting.
good revision nice!
👍👍
I`m about to dot and dab a wall in the kitchen and there will be wall cabinets on part of it, if i get a full joint of dab behind the part where the fixings will go, will the units be secure? Thanks
What about the ceiling and wall junction. Do u leave a gap therr aswell or any movement from upstairs floor or does the boards sit flush against the ceiling plasterboard?
I tried doing it today when putting some plasterboard up, it’s not as easy as you make it.
can you do a video about dabbing reveals and around windows
Wish I watched this before I did my job. 😑
Great job as always, all the comments of why not do it like this....it would be cheaper or faster if.... get the same answer every time you all go above and beyond in every application, i run a construction company and try to get my lads to do the same. do it once-do it right.
Steve Graham doing it right would be hardwall and skim the whole wall
@@dragonfitter i disagree about that being the only "right" way, there are many ways to skin a cat but each to their own as long as each method is done correctly which like i said previously they always do.
Great video. How did did you know at what distance from the wall your bottom chalk line would be?
Hi Tim Franke,
The chalk line was located by squaring off the window wall and plumbing down from the proudest point on the wall to be dabbed and adding 25mm (the thickness of the board and 12.5mm of dab).
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
Great vids mate
Although I’m a big fan of dot and dab and I love how you explain everything in your video, in this situation where that wall needed a lot of product , to bring it out true, would it not have been easier , cheaper and quicker just to batten that particular wall as it was a problem wall to begin with ?
I’d like to hear your opinion on this , as you probably do hundreds of these walls .
With a wall this much out of plumb and the amount of adhesive needed. being a small room would it not have been better just to plaster it in the traditional way. I don't see a big cost difference either way.
It’s a time thing really Dave 👍
Amazing work… I’ve only seen “botch” dot and dab plasterboard as you said, with 300-400mm between dabs. I wonder if you could have saved a bunch of adhesive just by using battens instead for this particular job?
I just did a batten job today… took so much longer than dabbing it would have done. But, the customer requested it.
I personally think a batten job is better. It certainly feels more secure and permanent when complete… its also much better for adding wiring etc…
But getting a section of 8x4 up with batten, all square and plum requires A LOT more work… If there’s any deviation in the length of the wall, that needs addressing first so you know your highest point… If there is any offset in the wall, you must rear pack the batten to make it plum and then square to the high point.
The juice sometimes isn’t worth the squeeze.
I’d also throw in… dabbing is often the best choice for bathrooms and wet rooms because you’re not adding holes to the boards for screwing to batten etc… gotta keep that water out.
@@zerg9523 screw fell down twice unfortunately
what's the final distance between the board and wall?
How much to dot and Dab a terraced house throughout and skim ?
hi there.
would you use same method to apply dB boards to solid wall? they are a little bit heavier. 37kg
thank you
Can I ask why you would board, in preference to plastering over the brick? I need my kitchen plastered but the tradesmen I have spoken with all want to board it. For that small space you're also losing some of the area with board everywhere. I know zero about the subject so if someone can explain, that would be appreciated.
I like dot and dab, and you’ve done an excellent job. However considering how much adhesive you used it would have been just as easy, and cheaper to counter batten the wall. Just saying
Hi Justy crusty That’s a good shout but at the time it was just as quick, it’s been along time since I have battened a wall maybe I should go back to it. Thanks for watching keep Safe regards Tony
About of dab used you could if hardwalled the whole wall then skimmed that
Hi @@dragonfitter,
During the video I mentioned how much the wall was out of plumb. It would of taken a considerable amount of backing plaster to level it out, not to mention the additional time taken. Dabbing was the most cost and time effective method in this instance.
All the best, John 😊
Good skills!
Thanks Bajo 😊👍
Can you dab when using the cement based Aqua board.
That's it mate, smack your level with a mallet
Is there any need to put drywall screws if its brickwall or old plastered wall?
Wish the plasterers were as good as you on the sites i work. Sick of tiling on bent and bowed walls.
The plasterers on building sites are on shit prices and have to rush their balls off to make a shit living they ain't got the luxury of time like this guy
I’ve only just seen this and I’m a Dabber so my question is why are you solid dabbing each board when it’s meant to be a solid picture frame of the whole wall?
Also them dabs are bigger than my head and pointless. I flick the dab on to get maximum flexibility to level the wall
Hi Great video as always. I like the idea of using a rubber mallet. I don,t have one so will need to buy one and noticed that they come in different weights. What weight would you recommend? Thanks
Hi David,
Glad you enjoyed the video.
Personally I'd go for a heavier weight as it will help tap the boards into place.
All the best, John 😊
Thanks for the reply. I did think that a heavier one would be better but I didn't really have any idea of them until I went on screwfix. I saw one which is 32 oz which is one of the heaviest on there so will go for that. Keep up the great videos as I have learnt loads already by watching them. Thanks again
I’m an OK amateur but maybe some pros could help me out. Why would anyone choose dot and dab over plastering? Looking at the amount of adhesive used, you might as well just plaster (or whatever) the whole room. Especially in a bathroom and especially if tiles were fitted afterwards. I’m no plasterer but to me, that job looks a piece of cake to a pro.
Nice tutorial, well explained and executed.
Thanks, that means a lot! Have a great weekend.
I always understood the need for a solid bead was to reduce fire spreading behind the drywall.
Hi Wayne L,
The solid bead not only helps to reduce the spread of fire, but also prevents any movement in the board. This is why we always advocate solid beads on the perimeter of each board.
Thanks for watching, all the best, John 😊
@@BuildWithAE thanks John. Love the channel.
What is the max depth of the dot and dab? I have one I need to build out to about 5cm, is that too much?
Great video but I have to ask would it not of been quicker to just batton out the wall and plasterboard over?
Hi Lee,
It's a lot more time and cost effective to dab rather than batton a wall, especially when the wall is as far out of plumb as this was. It would of taken a lot of packing and leveling to get it anywhere near, so it was definitely the better option in this instance.
Thanks for watching.
All the best, John 😊
Do you use Square Edge or feathered Edge for the walls?? What thickness do you use for walls and ceilings??
Hi liammillichamp,
Either works fine, but if you use tapered edge always make sure you apply skim over the skrim tape first.
I would always recommend using a 12mm board wherever possible.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for watching.
All the best, John 😊
We use pva and we put multi finish in it which adds aggregate and colour. It works a treat and a lot cheaper.
Hi Tom,
We've used PVA for a long time, however as newer products enter the market you begin to wonder why you ever used the original product.
Although PVA is a great primer, it has one major drawback in that unless it is heavily watered down (which basically defeats the object of using it) it doesn't soak into the surface of the substrate to which it is being applied; It actually forms a film.
The primers we tend to use soak in fully, leaving the aggregate as the key, rather than the film created by the PVA. This gives an ideal surface for plastering products to be applied to.
Don't get me wrong, PVA is still a great product for certain applications, we just don't use it ourselves.
Thanks for watching, I hope you're enjoying the channel.
Take care and all the best.
John 😊
I'm not personally convinced by the green plasterboard.
Tell ya what blue line on packers and rubber mallet
Brilliant
Thanks Terry, it's a great way to ensure your boards are square 👍🏻
It would be useful to know how far one bag of dri-wall adhesive goes where you are not trying to pack out so far.
Hi David,
As a rough guide, a bag of dab would cover about two 1200 x 2400mm boards on a level wall.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
@@BuildWithAE Cheers John, you're a star!
Why not metal framing with UD?
Hi there, sorry for bothering you guys but what is the bonding adhesive you are using to DD the walls? Thank you. I have a problem with my bathroom wall. Took the tiles off and the whole plasterwork came off wall exposing large scale of brick work.
No going back I knocked the whole tiles and plaster off down to the wall . Help! All I need to know what adhesive I use to stick my STC backer board onto the brick wall.
Thank you everyone!
Looks like you didn't get any response to this, however looking at the video they are using a Gyproc Drywall Adhesive as in this link - roofin.co.uk/shop/gyproc-dri-wall-adhesive-25kg/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhqaVBhCxARIsAHK1tiNW5uTuDEAHdydNB58F8zVWYLetMo8UsNGPYBMTtyZtv4d54XeTwvMaAj7XEALw_wcB
Nice one John, when you put the dot and dabbing on the wall, how long have you got to put the plasterboard up before it goes off
Hi Blue Boy,
You want to get the board on as soon as possible really, because the more mailable it is, the easier it will be to level. The speed the dab goes off will depend on the substrate as well, so I would recommend to prime any surface beforehand.
Hope this helps, all the best, John 😊
Hi everyone top tips from DR Building Solutions Rotherham South Yorkshire if you want to use a aggregate based primer like Febond Blue Grit there is many other different brands as well some can be quite expensive you can make your own aggregate based primer yourself by using SBR bonding agent and silica sand mix it together when you're using it you need to keep mixing it or silica sand will sink to the bottom of the tub
Great vids guys new subscriber here. Quick question - at the top of my bedroom walls there's a timber top/wall plate about 4 inches thick, could i just start the dab line beneath this. Can't really baton walls as rooms tiny. Cheers in advance
Hi Chris
You should be able to screw the plasterboard to the wall plate is always best
Thanks Tony
@@BuildWithAEthanks for quick reply. Gonna attempt myself after spending over £2000 on a plasterer to do downstairs and now we have multiple boards coming away from walls and all joints cracking. I'm guessing down to no bond/pva on walls and scrimping on the adhesive. Too many cowboys out there....
Chris Williams All the best