DIY ski binding remounting
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- Опубликовано: 5 янв 2019
- One man's attempt to make skiing cost effective for a family of 5.
I plan on getting skis and boots year over year for my 3 growing boys (as well as upgrades for the wife and I) from cheap online sources and basically be my own ski shop. I just learned to remount bindings and will learn to tune the skis as well. 
Видеоклипы
Also that great picture you have on the bottom of the rear unit,,,indicates very well the adjustment range of a rear unit.
May I add,
Yes it can be done,,,since most ski shop refuse to,,,,
Many bindings are stil functional,great and SAFE ( regardless what shops say’
BUT
You must understand basic functions of;
Binding positioning to ski
Basic adjustments by bindings ( rear pressure,front height, etc,,)
DIN setting,,,,(please,please not learned on net)
Your safety,,your knees or children’s knees depend on it..
Your call…
Thanks for the video. I purchased some used Volki G20s 3D (similar to yours) with the exact same binding, and the binding was too small for my boot. Your video taught me and inspired me to remount and it worked perfectly!!! So awesome. You ROCK!
Glad it was helpful!
Tip: Do what my dad did:
*Get horrible cheap skis at the ski sale at the end of a year - Not for the skis, but for the rental bindings!
*Now it only takes about 30sec to change boot sizes on the bindings
*Now your whole family can swap skis throughout the day! (eg, I'm going to go ski in trees, can I have the shorter pair right on the next run?)
Not all bindings are compatible plus if skis binding holes are drilled to close together no matter what bindings you get your boots won’t fit
The standard screw head for Alpine ski bindings is Posidrive #3 not Phillips. When drilling a metal laminate ski manufacturers recommend tapping with 12AB tap to cut thread. This information is always included in every binding manufacturers shop manual. The ski boot and bindings are a system. Do not assume that the boot will release from the binding at the correct DIN setting just because you set it to a particular number recommended on the chart. The boot sole and interface can very possibly create friction and drag on the release. I would not recommend using this binding. Just some observations from an old binding technician who worked with this binding when it was new.
The intention is good, the install is bad but it'll work. The BIG concern here is risking a trip to the hospital because your old bindings failed, or failed to release you. Hope you had em tested at a shop Skipp. Enjoy the slopes
Oh,,,forgot to mention..
Many,,many bindings have a plastic plate UNDER the units
You can use these as « templates »,,,
,,,
Thank you!!
May I suggest some important changes.
First planning ahead what you will do is critical.
Exam bindings for functionality.
Next measure your new skis,,,why ?
To determine how to « adjust »,,install bindings.
You have several choices,,in regards to positions,,
1. Move front binding ahead 2-5 mm.( without moving rear)
2. Move rear binding back,,,,,without touching front unit..
3. Move both units,,
How do you determine which?
Always,,always measure ski contact surface,,,( that is where ski touches snow,,)
Divide by 2,
That value is the mid point of the running surface of the ski.
Locate the ball of foot zone on your boots.
( usually just behind the first metal buckle)
I will will not discuss the dynamics why you are doing this.
Also I presume you are going to ski on front side groomed slopes.
Align the mark on ski with boot and BOF
Place front binding on ski,,,no holes,,no screws on,,
Mark where to screw unit,,via screw holes….
Always,,always do front first.
Always do both front units,,then go on..
Now,,
Very very important…
Look at rear pressure adjustment range.
(Every unit is different)
You must have rear unit rear adjustment range in middle….
If you do not know what I mean,,,,,stop doing work,,since this has to do with your safety..
Once you have set rear adjustment range setting to mid point,,,,place on ski,,,with boots on ski.
The rear heel boot should be 2 mm. From rear binding if it is in « step in » position.
In this position mark screw holes on ski,,,
Drill holes, set in screws.
Very very very important
Once binding set in,,check bindings setting for correct setting( not talking about DIN here)
If you are again lost,,,do not do rest since your safety is crucial
Once all screws are set,,,DIN set,,,rear binding unir pressure is set..
Pick up ski,,look horizontally between top of ski and bottom of bindings.
The surfaces m
MUST be mated,,,,no space between them…
Very very very important crucial check,,,,,,
Voila m’y friend work done,,,
2.
Hey I’m about to remount these same bindings. Do you have a link for this template?
Can you share the link to this template
How close can i redrill my skis?
Good video but keep in mind older bindings 10 years or older will be more brittle and will break down. Not to mention the grease is probably solid and not going to release as well. A formula for potential knee damage is not worth saving 100$
I don’t know how but this popped up on my feed...I can’t get passed the first 2:05. The “new” skis you bought on Craigslist are 20 years old. The bindings are equally as old and are no longer indemnified by the manufacturer; meaning they are no longer safe to use because the plastic and metal used to construct the bindings have outlived their integrity. Lastly, and again I’m sure there are more issues but there’s no way I’m sitting through 19 minutes of this, the doesn’t just “click in” and it’s ok. Forget about the fact that the binding is not safe, if the forward pressure is incorrect, the boot will not release from the bi song properly. Being a cheap bastard is awesome, I’m one myself, but putting this video out as some sort of instructional or informational “how to” or “how I did it” is irresponsible and is going to get someone hurt. I own a ski shop and have been in the industry for 20 years, so I’m not speaking out of my ass. I realize that this was posted 1 year ago, and I don’t know when it was filmed, but if it was any time in the last 8 or so years, everything I said applies.
Thanks, you are exactly right. The video starts out bad and get worse.
I find it interesting that you have been in the industry 20 years but do not differentiate mounting the bindings from adjusting the bindings in your comment. So, for the matter of safety, this video and the previous comment do not mention adjusting the bindings but that is an important step and there are other videos available to help you learn that as well.
I find the ski shop jocky trolls on here quite humerous. You are so fast to judge him... Yet you won't help him in your shops because you can't sue the manufacturer... So he does a DIY job... And decently I might add, you all blast him because his situation doesn't fit your ideal and doesn't involve spending $1500 per person on today's shitty skis and they are shit. Wooden planks... Straight skis from the 80s tech... Just wider... Yet eveyone of you trolls has no problem pawning off these same older "unsafe skis" to the local kid down the block at the local ski swap.... Where 100+ pair of 20+ year old skis are sold time and time again... By your same ski shops that won't help him!! You judge him becauae you didnt get to empty his wallet for him. You all are so brainwashed by the ski company marketing arms. Sad really. Yes, Ive had Tyrolia bindings fail... Mid piste... They were only a couple years old... Recalled for crappy plastics. My heel piece dissintegrated mid run... And I learnes how to ski black diamonds on one ski as a result of bad manufacturing processes after the bindings were just 2 years old. Some quality manufacturers materials, like Markers are far superior to Tyrolia. ...Age doesnt = doomed. And no... He isn't making a Warren Miller film. He'll likely be fine for his gentler slopes.... Though I would prefer a M9 or M10 myself with higher DIN range and likely stronger construction. You all want to ban abortions... But then you get mad when she has a back alley DIY job with a coat hanger... Maybe ski shops shouldnt be such pussies and force him to do a DIY job... And maybe you should pass a law banning your own ski shops from selling skis older than 10 years old if its so dangerous... Which its not. But hey, kill the ski industry... Why not. Your shop can ban its own best way to liquidate all those rental skis you accumulate each year... Nobody gonna pay $1500 per person for skis that have a 10 year shelf life and can't be resold and whos value goes to $0. Maybe the greedy ski companies should design binding mounts that facilitate 10 year replacements without redriling. The engineering tech has been around for decades... He has great skis there... Metal cap construction... So he should just junk them?? No way.