How the Professionals Mount an Alpine Ski Binding
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2012
- This video will show you how to mount an alpine ski binding. It will walk you through determining where to mount the binding, drilling and tapping the ski, mounting the binding, adjusting the binding to the boot sole dimension and then torque testing (release testing) the binding on the Wintersteiger Drivetronic binding testing machine.
Peak Performance Ski Shop is the premier race ski shop in Vermont, founded in 1989 by Fred and Denise Coriell. Our service center is one of the finest in the U.S. utilizing the Wintersteiger Sigma Race 350 Tuning Machine, the Wintersteiger Trimjet Edge Tuning System and the Verdonk Racing Snowglide machine. These machines guarantee World Cup quality ski preparation. Great prices, knowledgeable and friendly staff, expert boot fitting and World Class tuning make Peak Performance Ski shop the choice for athletes of all ages and levels. We are a Ski Magazine Gold medal nominated shop since 1999 - which means we are in their TOP 50 LIST of ski shops for the past twelve years. Peak Performance is the smallest shop to be named to the list, which speaks volumes about our passionate customers who vote us to that list year after year.
We carry top brands -- Volkl, Fischer, Dynastar, Nordica, Tecnica, Rossignol, Blizzard, Lange, Head, POC, Shred and more! Manufacturer Sponsored Race Pricing is available for all USSA, FIS and ACA racers. Our retail store in Killington, Vermont is open daily October to May and www.peakskishop.com is open all year! 
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What I learned from this video is that I won't do this myself. A valuable lesson.
I had an analog binding test.. gotta love technology!
Whaaaat?!?! Wintersteiger makes as automatic ASTM machine? I work for a major ski resort in Colorado, and they make us test it out with a manual Newton Wrench. It was the bane of my existence for this last year.
Nate - at least you didn't need a gym membership while working there... if you were switching hands on every other forward pull...you got a pretty good workout! We do love our #Wintersteiger binding release testing machine. Super accurate and much easier to use than a manual Newton Wrench. We highly recommend one!
What i learnt is that i live in the past and all the places i ve been skiing are stuck in the past as well and i would like to visit the future!Where are you from?In what heavenly place does all this happen?If you saw what happens in all the places i ve been, it would be like you visiting the past!
Needless to say i love professionalism
Cool so shockingly easy.
you own a lot of skis!
had no idea there are binding test machines out there (outside of a factory).
Came here to see if I was capable of doing this myself....AND I can't
Hi Pete- It depends on the ski and the binding. What is the ski? And what is the binding? Sometimes you just need to tweak the brakes out (by bending them by hand) to make them work, sometimes you actually need to get a different binding. Tell us what ya got and I can let you know more. Thanks! Tracy
Hi, great video. When drilling into a race plate, do you still tap the holes and use the glue or Locktite to secure the screws?
Thanks.
Shown in the video
where do you buy the jigs
Hey
My skis bindings are mounted in the centre of my twin tip skis. Now is it possible to remount them to traditional setting with the same boot????
please reply
Where would I found then on the web site
what kind of glue do you use in the holes?
GOT A QUESTION..I been snow boarding for years, i just took up sking and its actually going great..im in the market for gear..what i wanna know is i found skis twin tipped 170cm, with a tip/waist/tail as fallows, 115-85-106...will a binding with a 85 mm brake work for this ski since the width of the ski itself is a 85 ..keep in mind i dont know shit about ski gear..
Is it possible to get one at home and mount your own skis?
I recently bought a pair of used Rosignals w/ Salomon S9 Spheric bindings & Salomon 226mm boots...The bindings were mounted for an extremely large foot, possibly sized 13 -14 US (I'm size 10 US), so wanted to remount them myself. I measured and checked the boot sole length and found that I only needed to move the (front) toe binding back (toward heel binding), by about a half an inch... Measured, marked & drilled and got everything fairly precise, but then the boot Centerline doesn't quite meet up to the ski's centerline (off by about 1/8")...Is that a big deal, or enough to cause any problems, since it's not quite in the "sweet spot?" Thanks for any advice, or help anyone can lend!!
Unless you are an ELITE level skier on hard pack all day, you are unlikely to notice a difference. Sometimes it can actually advantageous to move the bindings forward or back depending on how you want to ski. 1/8" is nothing - in fact my daughter was one of the top ranked alpine ski racers in Canada skiing an average of 170 days a year. I noticed after about 8 weeks of training and tuning her skis that on one pair, her left and right ski were mounted about an 1/8" different. She hadn't even noticed.
Wow, sounds like your daughter could be an Olympic contender!?! I ended up performing the change myself and the new binding mount "holes" actually ended up apprx 3/4" from the old holes, from moving the front bindings back. It put my boots on exactly the mid-line of the ski, so ended up working out perfectly! Thanks!!
Yes, she was actually on the short list of 6 Canadian females for the Youth Olympics in Norway a few years ago, but didn't quite make it. She has now retired and is in university. Anyway, glad it worked out for you. As a point of interest, for demo purposes I borrowed a pair of all mountain skis from a ski coach last week who intentionally mounted the bindings about 1-1/2" forward from the "suggested" centre line. They were awesome! Super easy to turn in the fluff, but hooked up like a GS ski on hard pack.
Torque wrench 🔧 ?
i have to know if i can remove bindings from my ski and replace them .. please help me ...
+Matju Njeshi in most cases you can remove bindings from skis and replace them with different bindings, but you must be careful - it only works if the new holes to be drilled do not fall too close to the old holes. We would recommend taking your skis to a ski shop so they can do the job for you.
Great advice. I was looking for a similar answer.
My wife, as a beginner about 8 years ago blew her knee out on bindings that were set up, (I won't give the name) at a ski shop in West Lebanon, NH. I think they used a torque wrench. I've skied my whole life and always set my own to where I feel they should release every year. Sometimes I do it right before getting on the lift. I probably look like a total idiot with my screw driver out there. When I gain strength through the winter I may adjust them a little tighter. I trusted the shop to do it instead figuring they knew more than I. It really stinks because she was really doing well and she hasn't skied since. t have no idea if what I'm doing is right but I'm over 50 and no problems yet, (as I knock on wood). That machine looks awesome but after what happened I won't ever trust settings without checking the release on my own before skiing.
Thank you for your input. Great food for thought.
How would you recommend I check my girlfriend's skis release pressure on my own?
Sorry, I am a total noob when it comes to skis.
DJ BIS I tried to set up my son's bindings and didn't have much luck. I think it depends on body awareness. For a new skier, try doing this at home. Preferably on a carpet that will help prevent the ski from moving on the floor. Basically you want to go through the two methods of release while just standing with your ski on.
With the ski on, (just one ski) lean forward to the point of the maximum you are willing to handle without over stressing the leg, in a semi-quick bouncing motion. The rear binding should release. If it releases too easily, tighten the screw. If it does not, loosen the screw. Do the same with the other leg and ski.
Then again while standing in the ski, in a semi-quick motion, rotate your body on the one foot locked in the ski (about 180 degrees) and at the end of body rotation, stiffen the knee and foot to stop rotation. (Again, only one ski on) Don't over do it and hurt yourself. Without any pain and without hurting yourself, the front binding should release sideways and allow the boot to release. If it does not, loosen the binding. If it releases too easily, tighten the binding.
Keep adjusting till you are comfortable with the release settings. You may find one binding set at 3, the other one set at 4 or 5. That may mean one leg is stronger than the other or it may mean one binding spring is stronger than the other. It's a good idea to mark left and right ski. Going through this proceedure allows you to understand the binding mechanics and have a better feel for what's going on. Especially for a new skier.
I'm kind of surprised no one else has commented on this post till now. If anyone else has any thoughts I'd like to hear them. Both good and bad.
I don't know man, after spending hours watching videos on this I kind of get scared of taking a chance and doing this myself. There are a lot of variables. Its not just the one or two screws that you adjust.
Some of these videos indicate that this ski binding tuning should be done on a seasonal basis if weight of the rider changed, etc.
Sounds like there is much more detail to the operation than we can see. And the outcome of getting it wrong just isn't worth the price. That's my main fear.
DJ BIS Yes, it should be done every year. Before I put my gear away for the season I back the pressure off the bindings. It's just one screw per front and back for each ski. Let's say you don't trust yourself. That's fine. So you take your girlfriends skis to a ski shop and they do the set up for her. There is nothing wrong with that. Millions of people do this every year. Most don't have problems either. But, before you go out your girlfriend does the above test and there is no way in any direction that she can get her bindings to release on the living room floor. Now what? Well, the only thing that reducing the setting on the bindings will do is make the ski come off sooner rather than later. That is all. It's not going to change the distance between bindings, mess up the direction of the bindings, none of that. You're not touching any of the screws holding the bindings on the skis. Just the pressure adjustment. If you reduce the pressure it's just going to allow for an earlier release of the ski. It's been years since I've been in this position but from my experience, shop pressure has always been higher than what I set on my own.
Scott Legendre Do you know what a torque wrench is?
what is the name of that glue?
Thanks.
Hi Bruce- We use Tite Bond 3 Waterproof Wood Glue, but any waterproof wood glue will work.
What if the customer wants a DIN that is not recommended by the chart? I ski right out of my bindings at the recommended setting, using almost twice that to ski. They release when they should, but not before.
When a customer wishes to have their bindings set at a DIN that is outside the recommended range on the standardized DIN charts we "I-type" them, which indemnifies the shop from liability. This means we set the binding to the DIN they have specified and have them sign a liability release stating that they know we have set their binding to a DIN setting that is outside that which is recommended by the DIN charts.
ski is 5th element and the binding is marker ..nothing crazy good because i just got into sking, that and i already dished out for new boarding gear...
It would take me 4 hours doing this with paper templates.
What, no torque screwdriver to properly set the screws?
+Randall March Its is porbably in his elbow
Every ski has a different core construction, (e.g. junior vs adult; all wood vs foam vs wood/metal) which makes a regular posi-drive the best tool choice when tightening binding screws.
+Peak Perfomance Torque specs are in all binding pamphlets. the usually specify torque in newton/meters for various ski core materials.
Rather than get into a long discussion on our methods here please just give us a call to discuss further. We'll be happy to explain to you in person on the phone.
+Peak Perfomance Ok, I will call. I am interested.
Underarm pro
Ducks
A release check is done to make sure a binding is in proper working order. Rental bindings on skis are subject to a release test at the start of each season (and periodically after that), the shop knows the binding is good from that. No need to do a release test each time the rental ski goes out since the shop is providing both the boot and the ski/binding. It is just when the binding/ski is provided by the customer that it needs to be done because the shop does not know its status/if its good.
Excluding DIN, there are a few other exceptions...AT (Alpine Touring) boot soles are different than 'standard' alpine boots and 'system skis' can only use the binding that they come with.
11/12, 12/13, etc. is the season...2011-2012, 2012-2013, etc. You do not have to have the same year/season skis, boots and bindings. In fact, often when people get new skis they will transfer the bindings from their previous skis (as long as the binding still passes a release test, the brake width is wide enough and the person is still skiing in the same DIN range).
Bindings are mounted according to "Boot Sole Length". The sole length will vary from mfg to mfg....so a size 26 Nordica boot has a different boot sole length than a 26 Lange, etc. Adjusting the binding each time you ski with a different boot is not difficult to do, but needs to be done by a professional so that forward pressure and release pressure are correct. A ski shop cannot legally make these adjustments without doing a "Release check" on the binding every time you rent a boot (ie: $35).
Changing from center mount back to traditional should be no problem. You should not have a problem with any hole overlaps.
Binding jigs can only be purchased by a retailer (ski shop). Paper jigs are available from many manufacturer's for do-it-yourself-ers, if a paper jig is not available you would have to try your luck at "free-handing" the mount....which is NOT recommended.
Paper jigs are prone to poor results. Factory jigs are the way to go.
wood glue works great.
Is it wood glue? he doesn't say.