I only photograph and make videos of my Macaw parrots, both indoors and outdoors. After using my Canon 1 Dx Mark II since 2016, I recently purchased a Canon EOS R3. The eye tracking autofocus and 4K video on the R3 is a game changer. I love the size of the R3, uses the same battery as the 1 Dx, and a lens adapter allows me to use all my awesome EF lenses on the R3. Thank you Canon!
I was going to go with an R5ii and an R1 but in the end just bought a 2nd R5ii. I am very happy with this. I love having the exact same body and controls and I ABSOLUTELY LOVE being able to save/load settings whenever I change something on one of the cameras. I do this all the time, and it is so convenient. It made the initial setup of the 2nd camera so easy. I chose my language/time zone, load setting from card, BOOM, ready to shoot with all the settings I love! Game changer. Thank you for the great video!
I use the AF On half and full press for changing the frame rate. Something very helpful. I did get used to how far to press the button after some time. But like you it becomes more problematic when I shoot many hours. Like you state the NOISE performance is spectacular. I also love the pre-capture!
I'm coining a new term, just for you. MDS: Megapixel Derangement Syndrome. It is almost impossible to convince people that megapixels are not the primary determinant of image quality. How could it be when you are looking at that image on a 2k or 4k screen? I started in R bodies with the R6 and still love it to this day although my daily driver is now an R5. What people hate to hear is that I can take the exactly the same picture with both cameras unless its dark, then I reach for the R6, which will outperform the R5 by at least a stop or two. You are spot on with the "not all pixels are created equally" statement.
Hey sir, What would you choose between the Canon EOS R1+Rf 200-800mm vs. Nikon Z8 + Z Pf 800mm f6.3 for all around wildlife and best image quality? let me know.
A review, even if impressions, I have been waiting for. Thanks. Always pick up a few things. I have also received an R1 and my impressions are much the same. Granted, I am working up my high ISO confidence. It is very impressive.
If you could only have one what would it be R5ii or R1. I shoot sports and I got the R5ii but I find there is a lot of noise at 4000 ISO and when I’m shooting tons of hockey. I have the chance to return and get an R1 but I’m concerned on the loss of MP going from 45 down to 24. Should I be concerned. Will I gain the low light performance that I want and still be happy with the images. I’d crop at most 50%
Try noise reduction with down-sampling. Use your 4000ISO photos, do down sample with noise reduction to 35 or 24MP. If you are satisfied with the image, then R5ii is good enough. Unless you need to transmit your photos to your agency immediately, or you have no time to do post processing, then consider R1.
Noise reduction in Lightroom and the Downsample during the jpeg export? Another advantage I think of the 24mp is the reduced processing power needed on the computer.
I shoot birds for the most part, so the resolution that the R5II gives me is important, but the R1 is so good in low light. Right now I would say the R5II is what I would go with. You will def gain low light performance with the R1. Cropping 50% leaves you with 12mp images and if they are sharp images then I think the detail is going to be there for you. It also depends on how your images will be used. If they are going to be printed big, then there might be a bit of an issue if you have to really do heavy cropping, but overall it think the R1 would be a heck of a sports camera overall based on the time I have had the body in my hands. The down sampling idea is something to look at if you don't mind doing the work involved with it. Not that it is that hard to do, but it is another step in processing and if you don't have time to deal with it then it obviously is not an option.
Take at look at the photos on Ron's SmugMug account, paying attention to the camera info. I didn't see any images shot with the R1, but there were plenty of images shot with the R5M2 and the R3. I noticed quite a bit of noise in the R5M2 images even at relatively low iso values compared to the R3. To me it appeared that the R3 megapixels were of a higher quality because despite its lower megapixel count, the R3 showed as much, if not more detail, in its images than the R5M2. The R5M2's noise levels seemed to eat away at the detail captured. (Per Ron, the R1 is even slightly better than the R3 at higher iso levels.) After reviewing the photos, I felt as though I would have to run noise reduction on most images shot with a R5M2, which further reduces detail. Ron stated he plans to do a comparison of the image quality and detail captured by both the R5M2 and the R1 in a future video, so perhaps you should wait to see it before making a final decision.
Great video Ron as detailed as ever thanks for sharing your set up maybe it will change in time after using the R1 for a while still waiting for the R1 hopefully not long 😊
Nice! Canon for sure need to get their cameras and lenses in your hands pre production as your opinion is very valuable imo. Be good to see if you can use eye control AF. Look forward to more videos Ron
Hey, thanks so much. I have worked with the eye controlled AF quite a bit. I can't seem to find a shooting scenario where it is better than just putting the subject I want in the center of the frame and hitting the back button for the AF Area I want to use. Maybe if I used shorter focal length lenses with wider fields of view it would be more advantageous for me to use it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Means a lot. Cheers, Ron
@ that’s fair. I’m no bird photographer but enjoy your content but the possible scenario I’m now facing is focusing on a specific car as they are bunched together taking a corner. They will overlap in the view finder and while I pan ever so slightly, would like to pick which car I want in focus. Anyway, I tried the R3 and it wouldn’t calibrate and I’m no pro so it’s no biggie. Enjoy the new duo you have, they are great bodies! Canon invited me to “try the kit” maybe you can get hold of the RF800 and give that a spin. Cheers
The half-press full-press AF-ON button was one of the reasons I went with the R1. I use spot focus all the time, and would love to full-press to get WHOLE AREA AF, but I haven't been able to get this set up yet. There are AF preset modes for the AF button that have a LOCK icon on them, so I'll have to spend more time with it. I wish they had an AF preset mode with no locks, where both half-press and full press were fully customizable.
You can get the setup you are wanting. Use pre-set 3 for AF-ON button customization. Set the the half-press (Metering and AF Start) to be the locked SPOT AF area, and set the full-press position to be Register /recall a Shooting Func. In the Detail Set for Register/recall a Shooting Func. make sure check marks are in the AF area, Whole Area tracking Servo AF, Subject to Detect, Eye Detetion ( if you want it), and AF Operation. Set the AF Area to Whole Area AF, set the Whole Area Tracking Servo AF to ON, set the Subject to Detect to Animals or whatever priority you want, set Eye Detection to Auto if you want Eye Detection, and set AF Operation to ON. This should give you want you are looking for with regards to AF behavior for half and full press of the AF-ON button. Cheers, Ron
Thanks for the thorough run through of your initial impressions. The two-step AF button has a lot of potential for wildlife and action, and I really like the idea. Given your experience with it, though, I really hope that's a robust and durable button (which it probably is because it's Canon). If we have to put a lot of pressure on it for long periods of time to keep the full-press position, I can imagine a future where the button starts to stick or fail in some other way. I hope I'm wrong, but in years to come we could be talking about the two-step button as a design flaw.
My pleasure, thanks for watching and taking the time to provide your thoughts. I agree, I like the overall concept, but the implementation seems a bit off. Given it is a first, I will give Canon some slack. We shall see how it holds up and what Canon does with it in the future. Cheers, Ron
It is the Speed-shooter Photography Harness System. www.speed-shooter.com is where you can find all the information. Thanks for watching and your interest in the Speed-shooter. Cheers, Ron
Looks like your conclusion is that both R5II and R1 are very similar in AF, correct? I am struggling between getting a 2nd R5II or a R1. R1 will be perfect for low light situation.
I just do not find the R5II and R1 AF performance to be much different. I have not yet tested the R1's cross -type AF on vertical structure to see if it is still an issue, so that may turn out to be a nice improvement. Overall, they both can lock on to and stay with the fastest flying birds I do and I do some pretty fast stuff coming right at the camera. The fps and low light performance of the R1 are the big differences I have found so far. The resolution of the R5II cannot be ignored, so if you crop a lot then that may outweigh the other factors. Ron
@@kennethlui2268 There are some big advantages to having two R5ii's rather then one R5ii and an R1. I was going to go with an R5ii and an R1 but in the end just bought a 2nd R5ii. I am very happy with this. I love having the exact same body and controls and I ABSOLUTELY LOVE being able to save/load settings whenever I change something on one of the cameras. I do this all the time, and it is so convenient. It made the initial setup of the 2nd camera so easy. I chose my language/time zone, load setting from card, BOOM, ready to shoot with all the settings I love! Game changer.
I think the comparison should be between the AF between R3 and R1. I noticed that motors in the R3 drag behind when subject are moving towards you in sports (using canon R3 with RF 400 F2.8) . I’m using your settings for back button focusing
I already believe the R5II AF is better than the R3, so for me the comparison is now the R5II to the R1. Like I stated in the video, the AF on both the R5II and R1 are to the point of AF speed and accuracy being not "good enough" is a thing of the past. Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated. Ron
My experience is similar on the R1 . Seems like my R5ii is a little stickier sometimes. I think firmware will improve that....hopefully. Otherwise the camera is amazing especially in low light. I am also talking mostly wildlife video not so much stills as that is what I primarily do
@ Video looks great !!! I love the 2k 240 mode also if I want extra slow motion !! One thing I love about the R1 video over the R5ii is the ability to use crop mode in 4K 120 P something you can’t do in the R5ii . In the R5ii it drops the resolution or frame rate. It’s like having a built in TC on the fly and without losing any F-stops . I use it quite often !!! Low light performance in video is outstanding. I took a video on a GBH fishing and it was almost dark out and I couldn’t believe how clean it looked!!! Keep up the great work !! Love your videos 👍
Thanks so much for the info on what you are finding regarding video. I too am liking the "clean" footage at high ISOs. Pretty amazing what you can do these days. Ron
I'm assuming there is an AF-ON configuration that should allow you to basically reverse your current setup??? Surely it would make more sense to have the 'spot AF' as your full press (instead of half press), for the times when your current full press (zone - with eye AF etc) wasn't sufficient? Basically I think your should swap them around and then this should eliminate the issue you described!
Yep, you can use the same preset and reverse the functions of half- and full- press. As I stated in the video swapping the actions did not work as well for me. It may "surely" make more sense to you to swap the actions, but not to me. I have spent hours and hours shooting with different setups on the half- and full-press of the AF-ON button. I tend to use Spot AF to get initial focus on a subject that is surrounded by competing elements and once the AF knows the subject I go to full press and the Zone AF almost always finds the subject and tracks it within the zone. I like the way I have it set up now, as it works well for me in the scenarios I shoot and how I shoot. I just showed one example of how it can be set up. I did not state it was the best or only way to do it. The great thing is, the AF system allows so much flexibility in setup most people should be able to find a setup that works great for them. Cheers, Ron
Given that I have to buy every camera and lens that I shoot and test and do videos on, I cannot keep everything. I liked aspects of the R7, but I do prefer full-frame to a cropped sensor for what I do most. Thanks so much for the kind words and support. Ron
I need a "Dummies Guide to Video" for the new video settings in the R1, compared to the R3. When shooting with the R5 and R3, I had certain settings for video (compression, etc) that I can't seem to figure out with the new video nomenclature.
There is new nomenclature, but for the most part the same settings are available. For example ALL-I is now Intra. I will try and get a video done on video setup in the near future, but there is only so much time in the day and I am leading a lot of photo tours these days plus making my Speed-shooter Harnesses. Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment. Ron
@@JaredRibic You can find a lot of information on my tours here: www.whistlingwingsphotography.com If you have questions you can email me at ron@whistlingwingsphotography.com
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Do you mean by using Topaz Gigapixel, or via the lower noise of the R1 and the denoising and sharpening in Topaz of the less noisy R1 images?
First, I have not found resolution boosters like Topaz Gigapixel to work consistently well on bird images, so I don't use them. Thus, for me, there is no way to gain res over what the camera actually provides natively. With regards to noise and the potential masking of detail by high noise levels in images, the R1 def can get you more detail in low light shooting scenarios if they require you to use high ISO settings. For example, shooting action in low light when you need high shutter speeds. I will be doing some comparisons between the R5II and R1 with respect to resolution and noise. I will put out a video on what I find in the near future. Cheers, Ron
I was lucky enough to have a quick play with a R1 in shop (can't afford it). My initial impressions (body/handling only): 1. Like you, I have small hands. I found the R1 grip to be very uncomfortable for me, and too large. I much, much prefer my R3. Prior older 1 series cameras (1D and 1DIIn) were much more comfortable to hold than the R1 (more similar to the R3). 2. I had a play with the EVF too and whilst it looks physically larger, it didn't seem any better to my eyes, at least on initial impression. Granted, I wasn't able to take any images, just view through it, so it may be better than my initial impression shows. 3. The rolling shutter effects shown at 8:04 look no better than the R3 to my eyes. I am curious as to your views on the AF of the R5II vs the R3. I am highly sceptical that it is significantly better. I am also sceptical of the R1, but others that I trust have said it is a good step up from the R3. As to sensor resolution, I really struggle to see why 24mp on the R1 is better than 24mp on the R3. Both cameras are 24mp. I am again sceptical as to there being a massive improvement in the sensor performance. I am yet to see a single reviewer commenting on the high ISO performance of the R1 - they all seem to be dodging it. I am only 11 minutes into your video (must run, work calls). Will finish watching tonight when I get home from work, and edit this comment if any additional thoughts occur to this old dog.
I talk quite a bit about what I found with the high ISO in this video. Overall, is the R1 better than the R3, well, the answer is in the eye of the shooter. What is most important to you. For example if fps is what you need the R1 can do more. As I have stated many times recently, all these cameras are great. Pick your poison and go shoot. With regards to the grip on the R1. I find it a bit less optimal for me than the R3 as it is a bit wider, but soooooo much better than my old 1Dx and 1DxII which were much wider and the camera overall much heavier. Those bodies wore me out. Cheers, Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography I finally managed to finish the entire video today. Very interesting on the high ISO performance - it looks like it's 1-1.5 stops better than the R3, which is very impressive.
Have a r3. Used my friend’s r1 for a bit. Couldn’t tell a difference in auto focus. It’s literally the exact same. You only get the R1 if you need more video features and video performance as it has a second base iso at 12800 which the r3 doesn’t have. That or if you need pre-capture, or the rare case if you need 1/400 sync speed with flash in electronic. If you’re also shooting the specific sports modes it has in camera then it’ll help you. Image quality the R3 and R1 are the exact same. Everything else is just the usual camera space hobby shenanigans. The camera space has a really bad case of buyer validation. Several people I know actually for the r5ii regret getting it. One of them even told me they were gonna sell it and go back to the r5 because the dynamic range and iso performance was significantly better. I know several photojournalists who got the r1 and said they couldn’t tell a difference from their r3. So yeah take that as you will. Just really what I’ve noticed from hands on and also hearing from others.
sorry Ron, I'm still working my way through your video (thank you for doing this btw) - did you try reducing the AF stickiness? Jan Wegener found the R5 (and I think the R1) a bit too sticky and reduced the stickiness. I know you're reporting the opposite, but what if the AF system on the R1 is latching onto something (and not the eye) and won't let go of that due to stickiness settings and is thus throwing out accurate focus on the subject's eye out? Just a thought.
Hey, thanks. I have tried all the AF settings possible I think. The R1's AF system is great overall, it is just in the backlit situations that I find it struggles a bit, where the R5II does not. It is not really that much of an issue, but I will keep messing around with settings are I prepare to do my Full Setup Video for the R1. Cheers, Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography I presume you have CPS membership Ron? Open a case with the US CPS team. If anyone will know they will and it may save you time fiddling around with camera settings and mean more time out in the field. I still need to finish watching your entire video on the R1 lol. I have ADHD so long videos present an attention span issue for me and I find it hard to sit down and watch an entire video in 1 sitting due to concentration/distraction issues. PS just bought the RF 200-800 but haven't used it yet. Camera card is full and i need to sort/cull/rate 4 months worth of images, process a select few, before backing up the data onto 2 portable USB hard drives and then wiping the card so that I can shoot again. Yes, I want another CFE b card but can't afford it at the moment (as well as a spare battery, and thinktank raincover and groundpod II LOL). Too much stuff, not enough income. Investing in glass in the past 2 months (Takumar 50mm f1.8 super-multi-coated vintage lens, Takumar 135mm f2.5 6 bladed vintage lens and TTartisans 75mm f1.5 biotar clone, as well as the aforementioned RF 200-800).
Just started watching your video when I noticed that I was no longer subscribed to your channel. This is the 2nd RUclips channel today, and the 3rd in the past 3 weeks that this has happened to. Google needs to fix their shitty platform. Just giving you a heads up on the subscription issue.
In my testing i can take a R5mk2 with the 200-800 and my R7 with the 100-500 and both at 800 effective focal length and when pixel peeping you can't tell the difference in quality even though one is 45mp and the other is 32mp. The r5mk2 definatelly has a much higher keeper rate with the faster more accurate autofocus but I always end up with something I like with the R7. When the R7 is paired with the 200-800 it beats the R5mk2 in some cases because range matters (1280mm effective length). When I compare my R6mk2 at 800mm against the other two II definately can tell the drop in resolution and cannot crop without feeling the hit in resolution compared to the other two. The r6mk2 definately has an advantage in low light in my tests. I would love to see a comparison of the R1 vs the R6mk2 in controlled lighting to see the difference.
Ponder this. If you truly believed the claim that megapixels don't matter, you would have two R1's. After all, its better than the R52 in every metric. So why do you have the R5?
First, I do not agree that the R1 is better in every metric than the R5II. I am still new to the R1, but right now I am liking the R5II's AF performance just a bit better than the R1's in some of the shooting scenarios I have found myself in. Moreover, if a person is high on megapixels then the R1 def is not better in that metric. I am in the midst of doing a lot of comparisons of images from both cameras, and it really is amazing how much detail the R1 can rendered when an image is tack sharp. A person can do some pretty heavy cropping and still get great results especially at higher ISOs. Overall, the jury is still out for me, I may end up with 2 R5II's or 2 R1's or one of each. In the end, they are both extremely capable photography tools and a person really can't go wrong with either. Pick one, go out and shoot, and make great images. Cheers, Ron
When most hides are basically within a few steps of waters edge at most Bird spotting locations and yer you sitting in one with a 400 ,500 , 600 lense . It's not going to matter what the Camera Mp is .. What matters is known how to use your camera .. My 850D is 24mp And it never bothered me what i was getting even targets at 35,000ft plus .. The only folks bitching about the R1's Mp is those who take pics of smaw birds at a distance not even worth capturing .. who greet about not being able to crop in when processing . If thry were pros they would know when to take the shot and not soley rely on tech alone to save there image
I agree to some extent. But, I am not yet convinced that having 45mp on a bird versus 24mp on a bird that is full frame does not yield more detail on the bird. I will be doing a lot of testing of this comparing the R5II to the R1 to see if 45mp on a full frame bird gives more detail on the bird then 24mp on the same full frame bird. Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Ron
@whistlingwingsphotography When the R1 is marketed for Action / Sports by Canon . Those who cover those events are basically at the trackside within steps of the track / pitch . Why are those who do Birding forgetful of that fact . ... But they will make issue about the number of Pixels .. They call themselves Professional Togs .
It's funny, I took one to Kenya and I want to like it. I just don't. It feels so good, I wish they would have just given us that body for the R52, I'd have been perfectly thrilled with this. However the body just doesn't differentiate itself from the R3 to make me want it, as I didn't want or need the R3 either. I shoot owls, and if I don't do low light i don't know who does..but i don't miss shots in low light because of not having either R3 or R1. For me the best value going right now for wildlife is the R52, if i shot sports I'd be saying a different story. Images I've made thus far are nice dynamic range, but the detail unless close is not what I want to go back to after having higher mpx.
Great Vid as always WW. Do you ever use ONE SHOT anymore ? 🙂 And do you know if eye-detection works with ONE SHOT, Spot AF, anymore ? as I think it worked okay on the R3 🧐 It is all a bit different now it seems. I am having trouble getting it to work and I just may go with your excellent AF-ON (3) recommendation which is SERVO, and forget about ONE SHOT. But that wouldn't be too much of a hardship ☺
Hey, thanks so much. Yes, you can set up ONE SHOT, SPOT AF with Eye Detection. I just set it up in AF-ON (3) for the 1/2 press position and it works. Cheers, Ron
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I only photograph and make videos of my Macaw parrots, both indoors and outdoors. After using my Canon 1 Dx Mark II since 2016, I recently purchased a Canon EOS R3. The eye tracking autofocus and 4K video on the R3 is a game changer. I love the size of the R3, uses the same battery as the 1 Dx, and a lens adapter allows me to use all my awesome EF lenses on the R3. Thank you Canon!
I was going to go with an R5ii and an R1 but in the end just bought a 2nd R5ii. I am very happy with this. I love having the exact same body and controls and I ABSOLUTELY LOVE being able to save/load settings whenever I change something on one of the cameras. I do this all the time, and it is so convenient. It made the initial setup of the 2nd camera so easy. I chose my language/time zone, load setting from card, BOOM, ready to shoot with all the settings I love! Game changer.
Thank you for the great video!
I agree, it is nice to have two bodies that are completely identical. Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Cheers, Ron
Thank you for an outstanding review of the R1! You’ve gained a sub!
Great video! I'm busy customising the buttons and looking forward to your full set up video.
Awesome! Thank you!
Excellently explained. Very practical and bang on. Dude, thank you so so much.
Thanks for the kind words! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
I use the AF On half and full press for changing the frame rate. Something very helpful. I did get used to how far to press the button after some time. But like you it becomes more problematic when I shoot many hours. Like you state the NOISE performance is spectacular. I also love the pre-capture!
Thanks so much watching and adding your experiences to the discussion. Much appreciated. Ron
I'm coining a new term, just for you. MDS: Megapixel Derangement Syndrome. It is almost impossible to convince people that megapixels are not the primary determinant of image quality. How could it be when you are looking at that image on a 2k or 4k screen? I started in R bodies with the R6 and still love it to this day although my daily driver is now an R5. What people hate to hear is that I can take the exactly the same picture with both cameras unless its dark, then I reach for the R6, which will outperform the R5 by at least a stop or two. You are spot on with the "not all pixels are created equally" statement.
Hey, thanks for watching and your thoughts on the mp issue. Always good to hear other's ideas. Cheers, Ron
Hey sir,
What would you choose between the Canon EOS R1+Rf 200-800mm vs. Nikon Z8 + Z Pf 800mm f6.3 for all around wildlife and best image quality?
let me know.
A true review from a true bird photographer.
Thanks so much. Ron
A review, even if impressions, I have been waiting for. Thanks. Always pick up a few things. I have also received an R1 and my impressions are much the same. Granted, I am working up my high ISO confidence. It is very impressive.
Thanks so much for watching. Much appreciated. Ron
If you could only have one what would it be R5ii or R1. I shoot sports and I got the R5ii but I find there is a lot of noise at 4000 ISO and when I’m shooting tons of hockey. I have the chance to return and get an R1 but I’m concerned on the loss of MP going from 45 down to 24. Should I be concerned. Will I gain the low light performance that I want and still be happy with the images. I’d crop at most 50%
Try noise reduction with down-sampling. Use your 4000ISO photos, do down sample with noise reduction to 35 or 24MP. If you are satisfied with the image, then R5ii is good enough. Unless you need to transmit your photos to your agency immediately, or you have no time to do post processing, then consider R1.
Noise reduction in Lightroom and the Downsample during the jpeg export?
Another advantage I think of the 24mp is the reduced processing power needed on the computer.
I shoot birds for the most part, so the resolution that the R5II gives me is important, but the R1 is so good in low light. Right now I would say the R5II is what I would go with.
You will def gain low light performance with the R1. Cropping 50% leaves you with 12mp images and if they are sharp images then I think the detail is going to be there for you. It also depends on how your images will be used. If they are going to be printed big, then there might be a bit of an issue if you have to really do heavy cropping, but overall it think the R1 would be a heck of a sports camera overall based on the time I have had the body in my hands.
The down sampling idea is something to look at if you don't mind doing the work involved with it. Not that it is that hard to do, but it is another step in processing and if you don't have time to deal with it then it obviously is not an option.
Take at look at the photos on Ron's SmugMug account, paying attention to the camera info. I didn't see any images shot with the R1, but there were plenty of images shot with the R5M2 and the R3. I noticed quite a bit of noise in the R5M2 images even at relatively low iso values compared to the R3. To me it appeared that the R3 megapixels were of a higher quality because despite its lower megapixel count, the R3 showed as much, if not more detail, in its images than the R5M2. The R5M2's noise levels seemed to eat away at the detail captured. (Per Ron, the R1 is even slightly better than the R3 at higher iso levels.) After reviewing the photos, I felt as though I would have to run noise reduction on most images shot with a R5M2, which further reduces detail. Ron stated he plans to do a comparison of the image quality and detail captured by both the R5M2 and the R1 in a future video, so perhaps you should wait to see it before making a final decision.
Great video Ron as detailed as ever thanks for sharing your set up maybe it will change in time after using the R1 for a while still waiting for the R1 hopefully not long 😊
Thank you and thanks for watching. Hope you get your R1 soon. Cheers, Ron
Nice! Canon for sure need to get their cameras and lenses in your hands pre production as your opinion is very valuable imo. Be good to see if you can use eye control AF. Look forward to more videos Ron
Hey, thanks so much. I have worked with the eye controlled AF quite a bit. I can't seem to find a shooting scenario where it is better than just putting the subject I want in the center of the frame and hitting the back button for the AF Area I want to use. Maybe if I used shorter focal length lenses with wider fields of view it would be more advantageous for me to use it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Means a lot. Cheers, Ron
@ that’s fair. I’m no bird photographer but enjoy your content but the possible scenario I’m now facing is focusing on a specific car as they are bunched together taking a corner. They will overlap in the view finder and while I pan ever so slightly, would like to pick which car I want in focus. Anyway, I tried the R3 and it wouldn’t calibrate and I’m no pro so it’s no biggie. Enjoy the new duo you have, they are great bodies! Canon invited me to “try the kit” maybe you can get hold of the RF800 and give that a spin. Cheers
The half-press full-press AF-ON button was one of the reasons I went with the R1.
I use spot focus all the time, and would love to full-press to get WHOLE AREA AF, but I haven't been able to get this set up yet. There are AF preset modes for the AF button that have a LOCK icon on them, so I'll have to spend more time with it. I wish they had an AF preset mode with no locks, where both half-press and full press were fully customizable.
You can get the setup you are wanting. Use pre-set 3 for AF-ON button customization. Set the the half-press (Metering and AF Start) to be the locked SPOT AF area, and set the full-press position to be Register /recall a Shooting Func. In the Detail Set for Register/recall a Shooting Func. make sure check marks are in the AF area, Whole Area tracking Servo AF, Subject to Detect, Eye Detetion ( if you want it), and AF Operation. Set the AF Area to Whole Area AF, set the Whole Area Tracking Servo AF to ON, set the Subject to Detect to Animals or whatever priority you want, set Eye Detection to Auto if you want Eye Detection, and set AF Operation to ON. This should give you want you are looking for with regards to AF behavior for half and full press of the AF-ON button. Cheers, Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography - Thanks, I'll give it a try!
I appreciate the explanation of how you set up the AF full press setting.
Glad you found something in the video useful for your photography. Thanks for watching. Ron
Hey there what autofocus point should I have for taking kingfisher I currently have a 5d mark 4 with 150 to 600c
Thanks for the thorough run through of your initial impressions. The two-step AF button has a lot of potential for wildlife and action, and I really like the idea. Given your experience with it, though, I really hope that's a robust and durable button (which it probably is because it's Canon). If we have to put a lot of pressure on it for long periods of time to keep the full-press position, I can imagine a future where the button starts to stick or fail in some other way. I hope I'm wrong, but in years to come we could be talking about the two-step button as a design flaw.
My pleasure, thanks for watching and taking the time to provide your thoughts. I agree, I like the overall concept, but the implementation seems a bit off. Given it is a first, I will give Canon some slack. We shall see how it holds up and what Canon does with it in the future. Cheers, Ron
Does the R1's panning assist feature slow down the frames per second as much as it does in the R3? or did Canon delete that feature entirely?
I mean itd have to wouldnt it? you get panning shots using a slower shutter speed so if youre using slow shutter speed it has to shoot slower
The R1 does not have the Panning Assist feature that I can find. Maybe someone out there has found it. Please let us know if you did. Ron
This is excellent
Hey, thanks so much. Cheers, Ron
It would very interesting to see you try Nikon Z9 and compare to R1.
What is that strap used to support the monopod called?
It is the Speed-shooter Photography Harness System. www.speed-shooter.com is where you can find all the information. Thanks for watching and your interest in the Speed-shooter. Cheers, Ron
It is called the Speed-shooter. www.speed-shooter.com is where you can find info and order if you want to. Cheers, Ron
You can turn off the cross type in the menu I wonder if that would help
Please tell me where in the menu this setting is, so I can test it. Thanks, Ron
Looks like your conclusion is that both R5II and R1 are very similar in AF, correct? I am struggling between getting a 2nd R5II or a R1. R1 will be perfect for low light situation.
R1 all the way
I had R5ii and R1 (for a week). My initial feeling is R1 is able to pick up objects much faster and lock on better than R5ii in general.
I just do not find the R5II and R1 AF performance to be much different. I have not yet tested the R1's cross -type AF on vertical structure to see if it is still an issue, so that may turn out to be a nice improvement. Overall, they both can lock on to and stay with the fastest
flying birds I do and I do some pretty fast stuff coming right at the camera. The fps and low light performance of the R1 are the big differences I have found so far. The resolution of the R5II cannot be ignored, so if you crop a lot then that may outweigh the other factors. Ron
@ Thanks. I trust your insight. You do take very fast BIF photos. I agree low light performance is the main difference.
@@kennethlui2268 There are some big advantages to having two R5ii's rather then one R5ii and an R1. I was going to go with an R5ii and an R1 but in the end just bought a 2nd R5ii. I am very happy with this. I love having the exact same body and controls and I ABSOLUTELY LOVE being able to save/load settings whenever I change something on one of the cameras. I do this all the time, and it is so convenient. It made the initial setup of the 2nd camera so easy. I chose my language/time zone, load setting from card, BOOM, ready to shoot with all the settings I love! Game changer.
I think the comparison should be between the AF between R3 and R1. I noticed that motors in the R3 drag behind when subject are moving towards you in sports (using canon R3 with RF 400 F2.8) . I’m using your settings for back button focusing
I already believe the R5II AF is better than the R3, so for me the comparison is now the R5II to the R1. Like I stated in the video, the AF on both the R5II and R1 are to the point of AF speed and accuracy being not "good enough" is a thing of the past. Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated. Ron
My experience is similar on the R1 . Seems like my R5ii is a little stickier sometimes. I think firmware will improve that....hopefully. Otherwise the camera is amazing especially in low light. I am also talking mostly wildlife video not so much stills as that is what I primarily do
Thanks for sharing your experience, hopefully firmware will help. How do you like the R1 for video so far? Ron
@ Video looks great !!! I love the 2k 240 mode also if I want extra slow motion !! One thing I love about the R1 video over the R5ii is the ability to use crop mode in 4K 120 P something you can’t do in the R5ii . In the R5ii it drops the resolution or frame rate. It’s like having a built in TC on the fly and without losing any F-stops . I use it quite often !!! Low light performance in video is outstanding. I took a video on a GBH fishing and it was almost dark out and I couldn’t believe how clean it looked!!! Keep up the great work !! Love your videos 👍
Thanks so much for the info on what you are finding regarding video. I too am liking the "clean" footage at high ISOs. Pretty amazing what you can do these days. Ron
I'm assuming there is an AF-ON configuration that should allow you to basically reverse your current setup??? Surely it would make more sense to have the 'spot AF' as your full press (instead of half press), for the times when your current full press (zone - with eye AF etc) wasn't sufficient? Basically I think your should swap them around and then this should eliminate the issue you described!
Yep, you can use the same preset and reverse the functions of half- and full- press. As I stated in the video swapping the actions did not work as well for me. It may "surely" make more sense to you to swap the actions, but not to me. I have spent hours and hours shooting with different setups on the half- and full-press of the AF-ON button. I tend to use Spot AF to get initial focus on a subject that is surrounded by competing elements and once the AF knows the subject I go to full press and the Zone AF almost always finds the subject and tracks it within the zone. I like the way I have it set up now, as it works well for me in the scenarios I shoot and how I shoot. I just showed one example of how it can be set up. I did not state it was the best or only way to do it. The great thing is, the AF system allows so much flexibility in setup most people should be able to find a setup that works great for them. Cheers, Ron
Are you still using R7? I'm a fan of your videos, I do everything as you say. Maybe someday I'll buy an expensive full frame.
Given that I have to buy every camera and lens that I shoot and test and do videos on, I cannot keep everything. I liked aspects of the R7, but I do prefer full-frame to a cropped sensor for what I do most. Thanks so much for the kind words and support. Ron
I need a "Dummies Guide to Video" for the new video settings in the R1, compared to the R3.
When shooting with the R5 and R3, I had certain settings for video (compression, etc) that I can't seem to figure out with the new video nomenclature.
There is new nomenclature, but for the most part the same settings are available. For example ALL-I is now Intra. I will try and get a video done on video setup in the near future, but there is only so much time in the day and I am leading a lot of photo tours these days plus making my Speed-shooter Harnesses. Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment. Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography - Thank you. Also, I didn't even know you did photo tours! Tell me more!
@@JaredRibic You can find a lot of information on my tours here: www.whistlingwingsphotography.com If you have questions you can email me at ron@whistlingwingsphotography.com
In your opinion, can you make up for the lower resolution of the R1 with Topez compared to the R5.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Do you mean by using Topaz Gigapixel, or via the lower noise of the R1 and the denoising and sharpening in Topaz of the less noisy R1 images?
@@whistlingwingsphotography Could you please address both. Thank you in advance.
First, I have not found resolution boosters like Topaz Gigapixel to work consistently well on bird images, so I don't use them. Thus, for me, there is no way to gain res over what the camera actually provides natively. With regards to noise and the potential masking of detail by high noise levels in images, the R1 def can get you more detail in low light shooting scenarios if they require you to use high ISO settings. For example, shooting action in low light when you need high shutter speeds. I will be doing some comparisons between the R5II and R1 with respect to resolution and noise. I will put out a video on what I find in the near future. Cheers, Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography Again thank you, no one on RUclips is addressing these issues as good as you!
I try. There are a lot of factors so it is not a straightforward subject to address.
I just bought the r5ii and 200-800. Time to clap the birds into the next dimension.
Thank you
Thanks for watching. Ron
I was lucky enough to have a quick play with a R1 in shop (can't afford it). My initial impressions (body/handling only):
1. Like you, I have small hands. I found the R1 grip to be very uncomfortable for me, and too large. I much, much prefer my R3. Prior older 1 series cameras (1D and 1DIIn) were much more comfortable to hold than the R1 (more similar to the R3).
2. I had a play with the EVF too and whilst it looks physically larger, it didn't seem any better to my eyes, at least on initial impression. Granted, I wasn't able to take any images, just view through it, so it may be better than my initial impression shows.
3. The rolling shutter effects shown at 8:04 look no better than the R3 to my eyes.
I am curious as to your views on the AF of the R5II vs the R3. I am highly sceptical that it is significantly better. I am also sceptical of the R1, but others that I trust have said it is a good step up from the R3.
As to sensor resolution, I really struggle to see why 24mp on the R1 is better than 24mp on the R3. Both cameras are 24mp. I am again sceptical as to there being a massive improvement in the sensor performance. I am yet to see a single reviewer commenting on the high ISO performance of the R1 - they all seem to be dodging it.
I am only 11 minutes into your video (must run, work calls). Will finish watching tonight when I get home from work, and edit this comment if any additional thoughts occur to this old dog.
I talk quite a bit about what I found with the high ISO in this video. Overall, is the R1 better than the R3, well, the answer is in the eye of the shooter. What is most important to you. For example if fps is what you need the R1 can do more. As I have stated many times recently, all these cameras are great. Pick your poison and go shoot. With regards to the grip on the R1. I find it a bit less optimal for me than the R3 as it is a bit wider, but soooooo much better than my old 1Dx and 1DxII which were much wider and the camera overall much heavier. Those bodies wore me out. Cheers, Ron
100% agree. There's a lot of hype around the new R1 but the R3 is so close to that camera. And yes 24mp is 24 mpx.
@@whistlingwingsphotography I never used the 1Dx series, only the older 1 series models. Canon must think only guys with big hands use their cameras.
@@whistlingwingsphotography I finally managed to finish the entire video today. Very interesting on the high ISO performance - it looks like it's 1-1.5 stops better than the R3, which is very impressive.
Have a r3. Used my friend’s r1 for a bit. Couldn’t tell a difference in auto focus. It’s literally the exact same. You only get the R1 if you need more video features and video performance as it has a second base iso at 12800 which the r3 doesn’t have. That or if you need pre-capture, or the rare case if you need 1/400 sync speed with flash in electronic. If you’re also shooting the specific sports modes it has in camera then it’ll help you. Image quality the R3 and R1 are the exact same.
Everything else is just the usual camera space hobby shenanigans. The camera space has a really bad case of buyer validation. Several people I know actually for the r5ii regret getting it. One of them even told me they were gonna sell it and go back to the r5 because the dynamic range and iso performance was significantly better. I know several photojournalists who got the r1 and said they couldn’t tell a difference from their r3. So yeah take that as you will. Just really what I’ve noticed from hands on and also hearing from others.
Noise performance better anything you tried you said. Better than Hasselblat X2D 100?
Don’t know. I have not shot the Hass. Not suited for action bird photography. Thanks for watching. Ron
sorry Ron, I'm still working my way through your video (thank you for doing this btw) - did you try reducing the AF stickiness? Jan Wegener found the R5 (and I think the R1) a bit too sticky and reduced the stickiness. I know you're reporting the opposite, but what if the AF system on the R1 is latching onto something (and not the eye) and won't let go of that due to stickiness settings and is thus throwing out accurate focus on the subject's eye out? Just a thought.
Hey, thanks. I have tried all the AF settings possible I think. The R1's AF system is great overall, it is just in the backlit situations that I find it struggles a bit, where the R5II does not. It is not really that much of an issue, but I will keep messing around with settings are I prepare to do my Full Setup Video for the R1. Cheers, Ron
@@whistlingwingsphotography I presume you have CPS membership Ron? Open a case with the US CPS team. If anyone will know they will and it may save you time fiddling around with camera settings and mean more time out in the field.
I still need to finish watching your entire video on the R1 lol. I have ADHD so long videos present an attention span issue for me and I find it hard to sit down and watch an entire video in 1 sitting due to concentration/distraction issues.
PS just bought the RF 200-800 but haven't used it yet. Camera card is full and i need to sort/cull/rate 4 months worth of images, process a select few, before backing up the data onto 2 portable USB hard drives and then wiping the card so that I can shoot again. Yes, I want another CFE b card but can't afford it at the moment (as well as a spare battery, and thinktank raincover and groundpod II LOL). Too much stuff, not enough income. Investing in glass in the past 2 months (Takumar 50mm f1.8 super-multi-coated vintage lens, Takumar 135mm f2.5 6 bladed vintage lens and TTartisans 75mm f1.5 biotar clone, as well as the aforementioned RF 200-800).
Just started watching your video when I noticed that I was no longer subscribed to your channel. This is the 2nd RUclips channel today, and the 3rd in the past 3 weeks that this has happened to. Google needs to fix their shitty platform.
Just giving you a heads up on the subscription issue.
Interesting. I will have to look into that. Thanks for the heads up. Ron
@ it’s a common problem. - happening to lots of people. Could be many reasons, some of them nefarious on Google’s part.
In my testing i can take a R5mk2 with the 200-800 and my R7 with the 100-500 and both at 800 effective focal length and when pixel peeping you can't tell the difference in quality even though one is 45mp and the other is 32mp. The r5mk2 definatelly has a much higher keeper rate with the faster more accurate autofocus but I always end up with something I like with the R7. When the R7 is paired with the 200-800 it beats the R5mk2 in some cases because range matters (1280mm effective length). When I compare my R6mk2 at 800mm against the other two II definately can tell the drop in resolution and cannot crop without feeling the hit in resolution compared to the other two. The r6mk2 definately has an advantage in low light in my tests. I would love to see a comparison of the R1 vs the R6mk2 in controlled lighting to see the difference.
Thanks for watching and adding your experiences to the discussion. Much appreciated. Ron
Ponder this. If you truly believed the claim that megapixels don't matter, you would have two R1's. After all, its better than the R52 in every metric. So why do you have the R5?
First, I do not agree that the R1 is better in every metric than the R5II. I am still new to the R1, but right now I am liking the R5II's AF performance just a bit better than the R1's in some of the shooting scenarios I have found myself in. Moreover, if a person is high on megapixels then the R1 def is not better in that metric. I am in the midst of doing a lot of comparisons of images from both cameras, and it really is amazing how much detail the R1 can rendered when an image is tack sharp. A person can do some pretty heavy cropping and still get great results especially at higher ISOs. Overall, the jury is still out for me, I may end up with 2 R5II's or 2 R1's or one of each. In the end, they are both extremely capable photography tools and a person really can't go wrong with either. Pick one, go out and shoot, and make great images. Cheers, Ron
When most hides are basically within a few steps of waters edge at most Bird spotting locations and yer you sitting in one with a 400 ,500 , 600 lense . It's not going to matter what the Camera Mp is .. What matters is known how to use your camera ..
My 850D is 24mp And it never bothered me what i was getting even targets at 35,000ft plus ..
The only folks bitching about the R1's Mp is those who take pics of smaw birds at a distance not even worth capturing .. who greet about not being able to crop in when processing .
If thry were pros they would know when to take the shot and not soley rely on tech alone to save there image
I agree to some extent. But, I am not yet convinced that having 45mp on a bird versus 24mp on a bird that is full frame does not yield more detail on the bird. I will be doing a lot of testing of this comparing the R5II to the R1 to see if 45mp on a full frame bird gives more detail on the bird then 24mp on the same full frame bird. Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Ron
@whistlingwingsphotography When the R1 is marketed for Action / Sports by Canon . Those who cover those events are basically at the trackside within steps of the track / pitch .
Why are those who do Birding forgetful of that fact . ... But they will make issue about the number of Pixels .. They call themselves Professional Togs .
My theory is that a higher resolution helps the autofocus find an eye.
Hmm, not sure. I will have to investigate this idea. Ron
It's funny, I took one to Kenya and I want to like it. I just don't. It feels so good, I wish they would have just given us that body for the R52, I'd have been perfectly thrilled with this. However the body just doesn't differentiate itself from the R3 to make me want it, as I didn't want or need the R3 either. I shoot owls, and if I don't do low light i don't know who does..but i don't miss shots in low light because of not having either R3 or R1. For me the best value going right now for wildlife is the R52, if i shot sports I'd be saying a different story.
Images I've made thus far are nice dynamic range, but the detail unless close is not what I want to go back to after having higher mpx.
Great to get your thoughts on the camera, Vince. Thanks for watching and commenting. Ron
What do l think? I think cameras are not designed by anybody who has ever used one.
Interesting thought. Thanks for sharing.
Great Vid as always WW.
Do you ever use ONE SHOT anymore ? 🙂
And do you know if eye-detection works with ONE SHOT, Spot AF, anymore ? as I think it worked okay on the R3 🧐 It is all a bit different now it seems.
I am having trouble getting it to work and I just may go with your excellent AF-ON (3) recommendation which is SERVO, and forget about ONE SHOT.
But that wouldn't be too much of a hardship ☺
Hey, thanks so much. Yes, you can set up ONE SHOT, SPOT AF with Eye Detection. I just set it up in AF-ON (3) for the 1/2 press position and it works. Cheers, Ron