FDM vs. SLA Cleanup & Post Processing
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
- Techniques on how to cleanup and post process your FDM and SLA prints.
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![FDM 3D Printed Quarter Scale Gladiator Hulk Statue - Post processing [1/2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mR8nUjWmQb4/mqdefault.jpg)
A little more tuning on your I3 printer, and it wouldn't be so bad for clean ups . I have to admit I was expecting the sla prints to be much much better then the pla, however once cleaned up they are very comparable . interesting video .
Thanks, glad you liked the vid. You're correct, tuning the settings on the I3 would result in a much cleaner print to start but for this video I specifically wanted to demonstrate a worst case scenario for FDM print cleanup which is why I left the hot end temperature a bit high to create the blobbing.
For those watching...Please don't spray primer on your living room carpet, indoors with minimum coverage on the floor. Spray paint should always be done outside.
agreed - you need to tune that i3 - you could get much better quality right out of the printer
You should definitely upload that Hodor model to Thingiverse. It looks fantastic, and at the moment the only Hodor-related items appear to be dozens of Hodor-themed doorstops.
Can you elaborate on having to prime the resin prints because they'll keep on curing? Doesn't the cure process reach a point of finality, so that the resin doesn't become brittle?
My CEL Robox FDM printer has needle valves so I don't get the blobbing you seem to get.
Nice video, thanks.
Would be curious to know the weight difference with the support structures and application of the brush on coating.
This was very informative. I'm purchasing my first FDM Printer and I'll be learning how to dial in settings. From the videos I've seen, maybe lowering the temperature of the hotend slightly after the first layer will help immensely. Will printing slower help as well?
So you don't NEED to clean fdm prints. But for resin you NEED to. Right?
You should be comparing an ultimaker againts the formlabs...its just not fair to compare a top of the line printer against a prusa clone...
I am researching printing methods and recently found your channel. Very informative content you guys have. Thanks for sharing your experiences. How would this compare to a commercial resin printer that is used for larger productions / commission pieces (such as the ones Ownage employs in their service)? Of course the cost is much higher - but it would be interesting to see that approach and comparison in quality and post clean-up required. Cheers!
Dilute the xtc 3d with acetone and do multi coats - you can lose heaps of detail with resin coats.
Have you noticed bowing in your SLA prints? My Moai seems to have that happen on the first several layers and I'm having a hard time figuring out why that is. (I mean there is no thermal differential going on, so what else could it be?)
Its unfortunate your expectations of your FDM printer are so low when it has so much more potential
I know my settings are spot on my shit don't come out like that..!
What about the printing time and printing noise of the machines?
What kind of slicer do you use? And what kind of Support setting is that? Im curious
Do you share your Hodor 3D model? I would like to print him on my own.
Nice videos btw :)
Not sharing it just yet, but I'll probably throw it on Pinshape or Thingiverse at some point
dude, if you're going to compare them you need to have that FDM printer dialed in.
Have you tried printing with Cx5 !!!
No, but I'm looking forward to getting some printable CX5 filament from the Kickstarter to see how it goes
cool
if the xtc 3D makes it glossy, how did you make it look so matte in the end?
Ambiorix he painted it with primer
any specific primer to get that effect?
I like the idea of SLA a lot more than FDM as I'd be creating things that would be really quite small, about 25 mm - 40 mm with details. I just don't like the goo that results in the bath of isopropyl alcohol and disposing of that.
I just wish there was an alternative that allowed fine, small scale prints that were clean. I was looking at laser sintering type systems, but they are just so much more expensive. I only have a budget of about $1000
Perhaps one day I might be able to make my ideas come to life, but now isn't the time I don't think..
Or you learn how to print on fdm or clean the choice belongs to you. This comparison does not make sense unless it's just for you if some SLA producer has paid you.
Bad comparison - for a FDM part that doesn't have any supports it shouldn't look as bad yours. Yes, resin is easier and better quality, but you don't show a fair comparison here, cause properly calibrated hot end printer would give a lot better result.
Blobs and other crap is just your bad settings
there is no reason for priming
Using a not so shitty printer or calibrating it right would spare us that FDM jibber jabber from you.
i3's are actually really good for the price, this was not tuned properly to demonstrate a worst case FDM print cleanup scenario
hodor, hodor, hodor, hodor, hodor, hodor, hodor!
the best way to post process FDM prints is... to save up $200 and buy a cheap SLA printer. 🤣😋