For anyone attempting it, heres a couple things: Power steering pressure hose 22mm on pump 19mm on rack Power steering return hose 22mm on rack I found it much easier to keep the car on the ground and go from the top. No messing with the wheel or suspension. The first banjo bolt he grabbed and said "wrong one" just remove that return line end and pull it out of the way. It gives you direct access to the 19mm banjo bolt (that we want) of the pressure hose located right behind it on the rack. Two more copper crush washers is worth keeping it on the ground and keeps the repair simple. :) You also cant mix them up at the two banjo bolts have different sizes on the rack. Just my 2 cents to add :) Thanks for the video!
Would you happen to have a part number on those copper crush washers? I rather take your method and just remove the return line hose, get to it from the top, and just replace the 2 crush washers. I am hoping that you see this soon because I am going to tackle it next week. Thanks! PS. I see in some forums that the copper crush washers can be replaced with aluminum crush washers. I see part number: N0138487 but I am not certain if this is the correct one.
@purpstatus The hoses I purchased came with the crush washers. I don't see aluminum being an issue compared to the copper crush washers. I'm 6 months after my repair and the Rockauto Sunsong brand part is holding up nicely.
@@jobothehobo23 Well, I have the new high pressure power steering hose, and that comes with the cruish washers. I am just worried that if I follow your method, will I need new crush washers for the return hose as well. PS. Thanks for responding and giving the update on your repair.
Agreed, it can be done from the top. Just did it myself. Came apart easily but took hours for me to do the “fiddly” part referenced in the video. After coming back to the video, I noticed the coils on his were much more tightly wound than mine. After I smushed mine closer together, I was able to get the 19mm bolt back into the rack. Warning for those who buy the Uro brand part! It works, but you may have to reshape it. Great recommendation on the HF wrench set. Right tool for the job.
I just completed this job on my 2003 A4 Avant. I did not have to disassemble the suspension, but I did need to bend my box-end wrench to clear the body and coil springs. It also helped to have an extra hand to help hold the line and top washer in place while I threaded the banjo bolt into the fitting from the top of the engine bay.
Thank you for the video. I am doing one of these exact hoses on my wife's 04 A4 this weekend. You saved me a ton of time and frustration! THANK YOU again!!!!!!!!!
Great vid! I need to replace the return hose which runs down to the cooler (8E1 422 891). This is the bolt you were originally trying before realising you were" working the wrong bolt". When you were working that bolt, did you find you could you get to that bolt easily without tacking the wheel & tie rod, or are both bolts the same situation? -thanks!
The location makes both difficult to reach but the one in the back is the worse of the two because of the ledge formed by the firewall. The one in front is far enough forward that once you move the coolant reservoir aside, with an offset wrench you should be able to get around the raised part of the rack.
How did you get all the air out of the system? I recently replaced my pump and now there seems to be an air bubble somewhere, my steering works good anytime the engine is above 2,000 rpm but below that, low speed maneuvers are nearly impossible. One video on a different European make suggested vacuum pump on the reservoir, but after wasting my money on pump I realized that Audi has a vacuum line from the engine to the p/s reservoir, pumping vacuum to the reservoir just pumps air from the intake manifold, through the vacuum lines, and out the reservoir! What am I doing wrong?
Hi Dave, if engine speed alleviates the issue while standing still, it sounds pressure and since air IS compressible engine might be what’s helping. When mine started leaking (to the point I was carrying extras of our $40/quart fluid 😑, it would function as normal even with the level super low, I’d top it off before I drove it just in case. What I did do ,If this counts as bleeding the system, I did let the car idle for some time with the cap off the reservoir after the initial startup while turning lock to lock occasionally to make sure the system was “balanced”. One of those 🤔“I remember I’m supposed to but not sure why” moments.
@@CrookedMustache I’ve done the ‘wheels in air, turn to lock, left, right’ repeat 20x procedure about 3 times now… still no improvement at idle driving
I was told 19mm, but in my hurry to grab wrenches I accidently grabbed SAE. I used the 25/32 in from harbor freights SAE offset wrench set. Although 3/4 is technically bang on 19mm couls have been machining tolerances on the wrenches
For anyone attempting it, heres a couple things:
Power steering pressure hose
22mm on pump
19mm on rack
Power steering return hose
22mm on rack
I found it much easier to keep the car on the ground and go from the top. No messing with the wheel or suspension.
The first banjo bolt he grabbed and said "wrong one" just remove that return line end and pull it out of the way.
It gives you direct access to the 19mm banjo bolt (that we want) of the pressure hose located right behind it on the rack.
Two more copper crush washers is worth keeping it on the ground and keeps the repair simple. :)
You also cant mix them up at the two banjo bolts have different sizes on the rack.
Just my 2 cents to add :)
Thanks for the video!
Would you happen to have a part number on those copper crush washers? I rather take your method and just remove the return line hose, get to it from the top, and just replace the 2 crush washers. I am hoping that you see this soon because I am going to tackle it next week. Thanks!
PS. I see in some forums that the copper crush washers can be replaced with aluminum crush washers. I see part number: N0138487 but I am not certain if this is the correct one.
@purpstatus The hoses I purchased came with the crush washers. I don't see aluminum being an issue compared to the copper crush washers.
I'm 6 months after my repair and the Rockauto Sunsong brand part is holding up nicely.
@@jobothehobo23 Well, I have the new high pressure power steering hose, and that comes with the cruish washers. I am just worried that if I follow your method, will I need new crush washers for the return hose as well.
PS. Thanks for responding and giving the update on your repair.
Agreed, it can be done from the top. Just did it myself. Came apart easily but took hours for me to do the “fiddly” part referenced in the video.
After coming back to the video, I noticed the coils on his were much more tightly wound than mine. After I smushed mine closer together, I was able to get the 19mm bolt back into the rack. Warning for those who buy the Uro brand part! It works, but you may have to reshape it.
Great recommendation on the HF wrench set. Right tool for the job.
I just completed this job on my 2003 A4 Avant. I did not have to disassemble the suspension, but I did need to bend my box-end wrench to clear the body and coil springs. It also helped to have an extra hand to help hold the line and top washer in place while I threaded the banjo bolt into the fitting from the top of the engine bay.
Thank you!!! Spent 3 hours trying to take that off and quit. Came to RUclips and found you. Thank you man
Thank you for the video. I am doing one of these exact hoses on my wife's 04 A4 this weekend. You saved me a ton of time and frustration! THANK YOU again!!!!!!!!!
i really appreciate this very well explained , honest and detailed video buddy thanks!!!
Super labombastic fantastic skolastic 💘
Thanks for putting this video together. I have to attack this line today and was wondering thr best way to get to it. :)
Thanka for the video i need to tackle this very soon, tired of putting power steering fluid
My pleasure dude and I know exactly what you’re talking about, I must’ve been on can number 5 or 6 by the time I pulled the trigger 🤦🏻♂️
Favorite part: the dog! 🐶💕
Thanks for the video very helpful
Master mechanic awesome 👏 thanks man thanks 🙏
You should do an S4 😀 no space at the top either!
Thanks for this. I was able to fix it through the hood. Not easy at all!
Thanks for watching and your support. Glad I was able to help.
Great vid! I need to replace the return hose which runs down to the cooler (8E1 422 891). This is the bolt you were originally trying before realising you were" working the wrong bolt". When you were working that bolt, did you find you could you get to that bolt easily without tacking the wheel & tie rod, or are both bolts the same situation? -thanks!
The location makes both difficult to reach but the one in the back is the worse of the two because of the ledge formed by the firewall. The one in front is far enough forward that once you move the coolant reservoir aside, with an offset wrench you should be able to get around the raised part of the rack.
cheers for the video ! where did you source the replacement hose from ? do you recall how much it was ?
It was a Rein brand. I ordered it from FCP Euro
How did you get all the air out of the system? I recently replaced my pump and now there seems to be an air bubble somewhere, my steering works good anytime the engine is above 2,000 rpm but below that, low speed maneuvers are nearly impossible. One video on a different European make suggested vacuum pump on the reservoir, but after wasting my money on pump I realized that Audi has a vacuum line from the engine to the p/s reservoir, pumping vacuum to the reservoir just pumps air from the intake manifold, through the vacuum lines, and out the reservoir! What am I doing wrong?
Did I install a bad steering pump?
Hi Dave, if engine speed alleviates the issue while standing still, it sounds pressure and since air IS compressible engine might be what’s helping. When mine started leaking (to the point I was carrying extras of our $40/quart fluid 😑, it would function as normal even with the level super low, I’d top it off before I drove it just in case. What I did do ,If this counts as bleeding the system, I did let the car idle for some time with the cap off the reservoir after the initial startup while turning lock to lock occasionally to make sure the system was “balanced”. One of those 🤔“I remember I’m supposed to but not sure why” moments.
@@CrookedMustache I’ve done the ‘wheels in air, turn to lock, left, right’ repeat 20x procedure about 3 times now… still no improvement at idle driving
How much oil did you put in?
Dude that's cake compared to a 2002 S6. It's incapsuled in the firewall😣
@Micheal Mowrey don’t jinx me dude our other Audi is an 03 A6 Quattro lol
@@CrookedMustache 😬🙋♂️
What is the # of the wrench?
I was told 19mm, but in my hurry to grab wrenches I accidently grabbed SAE. I used the 25/32 in from harbor freights SAE offset wrench set. Although 3/4 is technically bang on 19mm couls have been machining tolerances on the wrenches
I’ve seen on two previous videos that it is a 22mm for a 2007 S4. Hope this helps someone.
Es un completo wey