Roof Pipe Boot Leak - Temp Repair
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- This roof is leaking at the pipe boot bottom side because of the nail placement. Water surface tension wicking in is just as important as Nails in the key ways. Over time water will rust them out and start leaking in. Although the title says repair this isn't technically a repair because the age of the roof, the roof should be replace. This is just a temporary repair to get through the winter.
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The Hell with the HATERS your doing a great job, helping people...Love your videos..
My roofer gives me all kinds of excuses......and never able to fixed my leaks. Thanks for you education.
I think this is fine for a temp repair to buy time as you say. At least it's not buckets of tar.
Great video as usual. I do home repair, replace a shingle here and there, vent boots, rain head installs, your videos are excellent. Hell you have embedded in my head "key ways, key ways, key ways", "nail placement, nail placement, nail placement" thank you...
I'm so glad you've uploaded this and the boot replacement video! We bought a fixer upper and this is just one of many projects on my list to finish making it ours. : )
I've seen old tar on pipes like this prevent rubber gasket from sealing tight (there can be slight gapping in irregular tar). I have my guys make sure to chip that off so gasket can seal properly. Excellent points on nail placement!
I'm a DIY'er. Your channel has been a tremendous help to me with hiring and inspecting for my new roof installation. Question...can you just use sealant under the flange and get away with not using nails at all?
Great Video Brother! Coming from
A roofer 💯
High quality temp repair!!
Good call - most of us just want something to stop the leaks until we can replace the roof.
Thanks. Looks great
Bro!! your smart AF 👌thats an awesome repair. Great video
Thank you for this information/video.
Very helpful & interesting. First time I've seen flashing used. What a good idea ;-)
Thank you for all of the helpful info in all of your videos. 😊
Great video thanks for showing everything you do. Be safe
House I live in had to have a boot replaced more than once. So after the most recent replacement I went into the attic - the pipe in question was not secured, so it wobbled quite a bit and enough windy days eventually led to the failure.
So my lesson learned - make sure the pipe in question is properly secured. After I secured that pipe in the attic, it had very limited movement, so I don’t expect to be replacing that boot anytime soon.
the plumber expected the roofer to secure the pipe with boots :)
Usually not a problem - I have 10 wobbly pipes (when naked) on roof, none has the issue you mentioned - but yes, seen others reporting the same issue.
@@xiangli2452 - the boots alone cannot keep the vent pipes from movement. The plumber is required by code to properly secure the pipes - with new construction that is something that they cut corners with to save a few dollars.
Great job to buy the customer some time through winter.
Subscribed because you just HELPED ME!...thank you!
Good information, great fix.
Good repair!
that's what I would have done. nice and simple
If the sealant protects the nail, I'd put some under the boot where you are putting the nail in as well. Free advice from a non-roofer!
Has matt claimed his prize yet?🤣
Another good job!
Thank you for sharing.
Great tip!
Nice man, these are the kinds of affordable repairs I have to come up with for people on a daily basis. Never did this one, although it's a great tool to have in the toolbox! Mainly never had to come up with it because I change hundreds of these things a year, mostly because in my area everybody uses these things called "5 in 1's". Maybe you've heard of them as "Multiflashing", a rubber boot with multiple tear-away rings to fit 5 different sizes of pipe, (hence "5 in 1"). Sadly, these boots are made of such poor material they often disintegrate, (not exaggerating), within 2-10 years. If they last 15 they got lucky. Now, I also have to do these repairs on roofs in the same condition as the one in this video. Problem being, the boot is generally blasted by the sun into so many pieces I have no choice but to replace them completely. I have learned lots of tricks to replace theses things on roofs in very poor condition, but as you said the shingles generally either tear in the process or are in such bad shape that when you put them back down it's like you might as well be putting a piece of paper on the roof. Ugh. Stratas/condos/apartment owners are terrible for this, as they want the cheapest possible fix.
Now I have a couple questions for you. I've been kind of making some of this stuff up as I go over the past several years, but based on very good knowledge that was imparted to me by some VERY long time roofers. AND seeing as how you seem like a very knowledgeable fellow, I would like to know;
As to how to actually fasten the boot to the roof, I was taught to have NO (zero) exposed nails on your roof, with the exception of the last caps you put on, and wall flashing. Now, myself when I replace pipe boots I always put my nails as close to the bottom as I can but so they are still underneath a shingle. If the boot was installed poorly and most of it is exposed to the sun, I cut the shingles to cover as much of the boot as possible, then install the nails so that none of them are exposed. Then I seal all the shingles that I just had to break loose to make sure they won't blow off, as well as any tears in the shingles that occurred in the process. So my question is, in this instance, is there a reason you put the nails exposed as you did and not under the shingles? And should I change my method to reflect this? Personally I would have lifted the corners of the bottom most shingles and put the nails under them, but still sealed them just because of the condition of the roof and the fact that they are going through metal. Most of the time though, I nail under the shingles and put no sealant other than to glue the singles down against wind damage. Is this wrong?
My other question relates to the roof ventilation. Now, I have moved to a different area from where I learned roofing, carpentry and so on, to a place where things are done uh... a little differently. In my area, I see hundreds of roofs every year that are completely shot on the south side but not on the north or east side, and I have long been suspecting the ventilation being the culprit. The thing is that lots of these roofs have a properly installed ridge vent, or adequate ventilation of some other kind, be it whirly birds or whatever. So, where I learned my trade(s) I was taught that every space between trusses should have a baffle to allow air flow from the soffit to the vents on top. Where I am now, they go every other space, or less. Is this an issue? I do live in the hottest place in Canada, the summer here is 40+ Celsius for months on end. So the question is, if a roof is totalled on one side but not on the other, is that definitely a ventilation issue, and should every space between trusses have a baffle?
Thanks again for the vids! Always learn something here.
use active vents, not passive - if heat is an issue. BTW, I am in Houston, have 4 active fans on roof, plan to add 1-2 more.
I'll take your ideas over the trolls any day.
Mine is a 20 year 3 tab shingle roof that is wore out /lot of granular loss after 11 years.I have 2 fan vents 2in with boots and not leaking yet but need replacing..Will these perma boots buy some time possibly?
Wouldn't a single screw in the middle lower side(not on the edge) be best option since you dont puncture the water flow area at all?
And then caulk some dots on the underside so they dont get affected by the wind?
When you say you have to nail because there could be wind-driven rain - why not use an adhesive to seal it down instead of nails so there isn't a penetration on the top?
Hey Brian what's your thoughts on spray foam on the underside of the roof deck and no ventilation?
Only a few dollars more, I would use roofing screws, not nails. I bet the rotten wood in down there, it's not biting on the nails.
Do you have an opinion on using geocel over Masterseal NP-1?
Washered metal roof screws only in exposed area. Will last twenty years with a aluminum pipe jack. Shingles are only good for fifteen to twenty years period depending on brand. That's the facts
CONGRATULATIONS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On 20K 👍🍾🎉 🎈
Bit of helpful advice ( yeah, everyone has advice to give ) Keep on doing what you’re doing. You know you know what you’re doing, and why worry about some of these ‘know it all’ losers? They’ve probably never been up on a roof, or can even swing a hammer, AND, most likely rarely get out of their Momma’s basement! Everybody’s a critic, and love to put there down. It’s just a fact of life in our Society today, sad to say.
Oh, bitchin’ repair job BTW! 👍👍👍😊👏🙏🇺🇸🔨
If someone hates on you it's jerks with magnetic signs on their pick-ups who will change it to siding when the law shows up...
These shingle roof suck period
By the way, just saying, but there is no way that you as a retail order will ever be able to react more quickly to any economic news release than the big banks and hedge funds. So when you say you need to sell because JOLTS is bad....by the time your trade executes that will already have been priced in. I might add, the stock market ended up big today....
Looks like a good, cheap repair to me