I wish this existed years ago!
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- I wish something like this existed back when I first started watercooling! This will simplify so many builds for so many people!
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they leave the tape off so you can remove the RGB if you wish without having to clean the residue, especially if you are doing small form factor, or dont want hanging rgb leads without the ability to use it, i actually appreciate that they do it that way
If I was to use that block, i'd be taking out the RGB lol so I too appreciate it's not stuck on.
I was thinking that, AND I was thinking "hey what if you need to disassemble the block to de-gunkify it after using cheap coolant?" You wouldn't want it getting soaked while working with a wet surface.
also if the piece that it's sticked on is made from metal, leaving the tape on can prevent it from shorting... because the strip has also contacts on the back side
Or just in case the RGB LEDs die for any reason
that's me, 3090 SE block, EK 1200 block and FLT 80 RGB off XD
I'm glad you addressed the loop config and cavitation because so many people overlook that! Cheers.
This did exist years ago. I've been using Barrow's version of it for years, it works great. The EK design has some improvements, namely a reservoir that actually can work as a reservoir, but for what it is the Barrow version is fine.
True. Keeps my 5800X cool with a 240 rad. A bitch to mount, though 🤣
@@Lord_Ralph I already had a bunch of computer cooling hardware, so I grabbed some thumb screws and springs from another cooler to mount mine. The included screws and springs are dimensioned awfully, or at least they were when I ordered mine, if you put the springs under too much tension they'd just pop over the screw heads and make a mess. Works fine if you just put an M4 washer between the spring and the screw cap, but then they could at least have included the washers...
I'm not saying the Barrow product was perfect, it has some issues. For example three ports is really convenient, but they're located a bit too close together for larger fittings, which is unfortunate for me since I prefer thick wall soft tubing. But for small form factor builds, being able to eschew a separate pump and splitting reservoir duty between the radiator and the CPU block lets you watercool in some very tight spaces indeed. And watercooling in turn lets you shrink some cards down tremendously (though that mainly applies to Nvidia reference cards, which can be tricky to get in Russia). A watercooled 4090 is as long as a RX6600. Thanks to the Barrow block, you can squeeze a 7950XT and a 4090 into an absolutely tiny SFF machine with a single 120mm radiator and a 3krpm fan to get an incredibly powerful and noisy machine that's still small enough to conveniently carry around, which is precisely what I did years ago. Loved it.
EKs block is better designed, but I'll always have a soft spot for my Barrow, which did this same genius thing, which fits on both Intel and AMD, and which is backwards compatible all the way back to AM2. That's not EKs style though.
That's right, 10 seconds into the video I realized that this was done by Barrow years ago already.
I used an alphacool one years ago in a sff build I did for a friend of mine and it worked great!
I bought the barrow one, but for some reason the thermals were awful, even when re-seated multiple times, bough a CPU block only, then an EK pump/res combo, all high temp issue were gone.
Probably i got a faulty unit or something wasn’t right, but also left a bad taste :/, so no more these lesser known brands.
My Alphacool Eisbaer system is technically the same thing, and I prefer the looks of it honestly. But good that more options are coming out!
Same here.
An eisbaer is the block i put in my sister's am4 rig 5800/6800xtx+2x240s in the ghost s1 with tophats.
@@jacobhurst7275 I have the 280mm version.. its been great on an older 2800x, but id like to jump up to a 7800x3d or even a 7900x.. do you think that that pump rad combo is capable of handling the upgrade I want to do ?
The fact the DDC is pressed into the metal part makes the pump stator and electronics watercooled which is definately a good thing with a DDC pump. Def a really interesting product for SFF.
@Karl with a K EK Water cooling mediocre products with a hefty price tag but youtubers are shilling so hard for that company that they can keep prices high. People will buy and defend products from that company anyway.
@Karl with a K Even the pumps with reservoirs attached are not technically self priming. It isn't exactly hard to design a loop and place the pump so it gets filled first. I think with this product that is going to be slightly harder thats all...
Two words. Modultra Lobo
@@ps3guy22 That looks great, they state about the cooling of the pump electronics in the description too. It would be good to see some comparison analysis with these pumpblocks. Not only cooling performance but also flow rate ect...
@@kitkat2407 hi there poor guy. I bet u dont even have a custom loop. Not even Barrow plebs class.
I'm kind of surprised you haven't really experimented with the Alphacool Eisbear more, considering it's also a combination pump/res/cooling block. That one has been around for a good while now, and good enough to pair with some radiators.
Thank you !! all i want is a video comparing the Eisbear pump.. not the LT small one but the normal big size one.. i have it hooked up to its original 280mm rad and its been awesome.. Id really like to know where it sits compared to Asutek pumps and really expensive pumps like this that only fit one type of socket...
Not being taped MIGHT be so that you can remove the RGB in case you don't want it (not sure why you'd get the plexi instead of the other ones though if thats the case). If you don't take it apart it isn't moving anywhere, but should you want to remove it then its easy. I personally think its odder that there is tape on it since it fits just fine without it.
Those RGBs come on a roll and you just cut them to the length you need. And it's probably easier for EK to buy one SKU of RGBs and only peel the adhesive when the situation calls for it. And it would avoid assembly boo-boos like someone grabbing the wrong roll, making a bunch that aren't adhesive, and finding out later they were meant for an adhesive application.
@@phydeux Sounds likely. I have an EK block and I was actually frustrated that I couldn't easily remove the unicorn puke lights from it that only light up the EK logo on the nickel plated top, so I had to carefully roll up the cable inside of it so it wasn't just floating around my motherboard on a very carefully done build. I would have liked if it was that easy to take off... though I wouldn't have bought the clear plastic one designed to be MORE light up.
Yeah. As long as the thing isnt like slipping out of the block because they didn't use the adhesive it only makes the thing easier to service down the line. Also, it might provide a little bit of tension relief so its less likely to get damaged if it gets yanked. And at the same time, those that dont want rgb can easily remove it and not have to deal with an extra cable at all, but if they end up changing their mind they can just stick it right back in that slot without any serious hassle. I understand the gripe with the captive screw falling out, but I personally view their decision to not use the adhesive as a plus. I rarely comment on vids, and this is something so minor, but for some reason their reaction irked the hell outta me lmao
These have been available for a while. I have had a bykski cpu waterblock combo on my pc for a few years.
Jay should know, he built an SFF build with a similar block/pump combo years ago in the last studio lol
EK captive screws are rarely actually captive, I've learned. The ones in their recent round of GPU blocks are terrible for this. Also I feel like they deliberately leave the sticker backing on the RGB strips in their blocks, because I recall seeing the same thing in a couple EK blocks I've installed.
I would imagine the RGB strips they are sourcing all come with that backing, but they don't use it since other parts keep it in place and it makes that metal block easier to clean without damaging the RGB strip.
@@Sgt_SealCluberThis, and also bc of making customer service easier. Imagine if they were glued into the block and they had to rip them out every time they encounter a broken rgb strip. Would be terrible during quality checking/sorting out bad products before shipping as well as repairing warranty/rma products.
Bykski, Barrow, and Alpha have been making this for years. Also, EK, has been selling this in their commercial server products for eons. You should see these .5U server blocks, amazing stuff.
Jup, I have one from Alpha, cost $65 bucks and has been happily cooling a 3800xt and a 1660ti for more than a year now. It also has the advantage that it has an actual reservoir in it, really great option for a budget build. I literally did my entire loop for about $30 more than this EK block costs.
I feel like this would justify a res. Like usually people run a pump res combo and then have another one of those decorative reservoirs that are made of glass and rgb against one of the vents of the case, but with this you can eliminate the pump-res and just have the res, to me that’s makes more sense with the amount of water you would use as opposed to a bigger mass of water with the former. But it’s cool to have more options now.
So glad I stuck around for that ending blooper 🤣😂🤣
you have afixed the led strip to an item that will likely need to be cleaned. Thats why it was not stuck on there. Was probably a part used on other items and comes with the 2 way tape preapplied.
This reminds me of working as a auto mechanic. Remember even with that nylon saving the "curious" a little it will still burn up the pump if you run it dry for too long. Its best to just not run it dry.
I like that the RGB wasn'r glued in, that way you could just remove it if you don't like/want RGB on it.
I have a pair of D5 pumps that are 15+ years old. They look as new as the day I installed them after cleaning. Keep fluid on them, and these little magnetic wonders will definitely last decades.
About time someone made a good one of these. Haven't seen any decent options since the Apogee Drive II, and just try buying one. I love the idea of this as you can basically make you're own AIO... in essence. I would do this even in a full size build, not just ITX.
Nouvolo Aquanaut Extreme was very good. All the port options on the EK one though is really nice.
Barrow have been doing these for a couple of years
its because nobody wants to get sued by the absolute clowns at asetek. they patent trolled the aio which is absolutely stupid considering just about EVERY FREAKIN CAR since water cooled engines became a thing uses pump on block cooling! asetek never invented a damn thing, they're patent troll clowns. they blocked all water cooling innovation. hopefully they collapse soon enough
The barrow version works great and has been available for years and it works great.
This just changed me from going AIO to this (first time not using an AIO) for North case build. Thank you!
11:49 It's not laziness. It's an option for clients who don't want that additional RGB strip cable when they don't use the RGB lighting. They can easily remove the RGB strip that way if it's not stuck on to begin with.
Alphacool, Bykski, Barrow, and some others have been making block/pump/res combos with ddc's or d5's for years...
I built a custom EK-cooled system a few years back: 6850K, two 980Ti cards in SLI. It was fun to build and run, but it was way too expensive. I did it because it was the only way to get good cooling for the GPUs, and it worked. I'm glad I had that experience, but I'll never build a custom water-cooled PC again. There's just no need.
The backing for the double-sided tape is probably left on for those who want to _remove_ the RGB. Not everyone likes to light up their computer.
good point!
also, it doesn't go anywhere once it is inside it only costs time to get the peel off during manufacturing.
Apogee Drive II waterblock with integrated pump! - Wonderful and probably more than 10 years old!
Wow, that takes me back to the early 2000s when we used to make the blocks ourselves, ran them with an aquarium pump and hoses, and were praying it would never start leaking 😆. Looks like it's a good time to get back into the game. But then I look at the AIOs and wonder why I would put that kind of stress on myself again. 😔
These days it's mostly an aesthetic thing. Sure, you might get marginally better results with a custom loop, if you really plan it out. But when I say marginally, I definetely mean marginally. If the goal is to keep your hardware cool generally, modern AIOs will do the job just fine.
If you're into amazing looking PCs, a custom loop is nearly inevitable. And to make it worse, for the really great looking ones, you're looking at hard tubes and probably distro plates. Which I originally was going for. But that just adds another 250 bucks or so, and at some point I'm just not willing to throw money at the system. Currently on the path to say "screw high end" and go with a decent midrange PC and spend the rest of the money I'd have thrown at a high end system on a nice vacation with the missus.
@@noneofyourbusiness4294 aesthetics is definitely a part of it, but for all of the people where I've installed custom loops the biggest concern was silence. My own system runs effectively passively when I'm not gaming. Zero moving parts, apart from a D5 that's in an anti-vibration mount. But this invariably comes with the inconvenience of an externally mounted radiator.
@@fermitupoupon1754 so, what was the actual usecase for the people you built systems for? Generally speaking, they probably have the cash and dedication for proper noise cancelling headphones. I mean, you weren't building a lot of custom loops for office/media PCs, right?
The sound level of gaming PCs is one of the dumbest debates there is. Like sure, having your system run quiet and cool is great. It's something to look forward to. I get it.
But man doesn't it matter if you spend 200 bucks on a decent set of headphones compared to a 600 bucks and upwards custom loop. If noise is your first concern, a custom loop is not the top priority.
@@noneofyourbusiness4294 It's generally not so much for the person wearing the headphones as much as it is for the others in the room.
For example a friend of mine lives in a 1 bedroom apartment. So his computer is in the living room. But while he's sitting there gaming, his girlfriend wants to watch TV and not be annoyed by a loud gaming PC.
Another guy is a VFX artist who lives in a tiny studio apartment in the most expensive city in the country. He doesn't like a noisy computer next to his head while that thing renders scenes overnight. But he has no other room to put either his PC or his bed in.
Added benefit in this case is we kept the hoses slightly on the long side, allowing him to put the radiator outside the window during summer, dumping all that rendering heat outside.
@@noneofyourbusiness4294 once you've been jump-scared by a child suddenly appearing next to you while gaming in the middle of the night you'll think twice of you want to put headphones on. 😆
But apart from that there are other reasons why I don't want to wear headphones all the time, and i want my system to be quiet enough to have to wear any. Thankfully today's high end systems still can be cooled really quietly as long as overclocking isn't getting too extreme.
You should take a look at the Modultra Lobo. It performs really well and is a lot more compact than the EK one you have here.
Very hard to get hold off, backordered since forever.
I really wanna build a custom watercooling system myself... but man its gotten so expensive
Edit: apparently i need to clarify this; the "has gotten" is mostely bc the hardware that actually reasonably justifies to be watercooled has gotten so crazy expensive... yes watercoolimg has always been "unnecessary" and expensive. But the highend consumer hardware has never been as expensive as now (excluding the scalpers).
same
Not to hate, but the best gaming CPU 7800X3D draws 65 watts in games, and a 4090 is hugely overkill coolers, tbh whole 40-series is like my 4070ti. Slight undervolt and its no problem. Maybe if you did live in a very warm country water cooling would start to help.
Ive been looking at all sorts of mix and matched stuff. at first I was like I want it all one brand but no I'm going with a mix because I want price:perf at how much these parts cost! lots of good "third party" and cheap brands that offer similar performance to the name brands. if I have learned anything in my 15 plus years of system building and repair, it is to plan, plan plan.
Especially considering a big aircooler is under $75 compared to a piece of a custom loop at $319.
With rads, fitting, pump, reservior, cpu and gpu block I estimated 600-900€ for me...
Thanks a lot, Jay.
Love you guys!
My reason towards the RGB strip not being stuck down is cleaning. You would not want that stuck when you want to make sure water wont damage the lighting. Just my 2c
That last scene…oh man LMAO!
Bringing up the nr200 causing concern! Yep, with our Barrow cpu/pump block, my gf's nr200 was always hard to bleed. Always had bubbles on the tubes.
Being able to have this a a second pump in a system is probably the most appealing part to this
This is hilarious .... I literally just purchased this for the specific reason of running a dual pump setup in my 011 Mini. I've been running the EK front distro plate for the 011 mini & thanks to my flow meter I know all the bends & turns have drastically lowered the flow. So I purchased this for the exact same scenario you explained at the end.
I remember in the days before there were reserviors specifically built for pc's, you can t-junction a fill tube from the top of the case to right before the inlet of the pump and use that as a reservior. Of course the volume was small but you would fill as it pumped and it also acted as an air collector and bleed valve. Once the system is purged of air, fill the tube up with water and it acts as a small reservior to keep your pump from running dry.
The back of the RGB strip has bare copper pads. So the only thing keeping it from shorting against the metal block you stuck it to is the paint on the block and the adhesive now that you've removed the backing. It's probably fine, but I wouldn't have done that.
Air (any gas and some solids) is a fluid -- you mean "a pump moves LIQUID, not a gas".
Do you remember a tower radiator reservoir that was gravity circulated -- I think it was made by Zalman? It might have been able to be used with a pump and a fan could have been added, though it would work without needing any power.
"I got it back on....but it's on the wrong side..."
Never seen Jay so defeated. lol
That Xylem/Laing DDC is watercooled with it's own water and through copper! Cannot get any better than that!
They don't tape the RGB strip into their blocks so that you can rotate it or adjust it. They've done same for the Magnitude blocks, which miss 1 RGB bulb on the strip, so you can rotate it to your needs
I had the Swiftech CPU block/pump combo for my watercooled build about 10 years ago where I liquid cooled a 4770k and a 780 ti.
It died after about a year.
I switched to a DDC pump IIRC and an EK waterblock for the CPU. This block/pump combo certainly looks a lot more sturdy than the Swiftech version from a decade ago.
It's definitely a bit harder to make sure the pump is getting water if the pump is integrated into the CPU block in my experience; I recall having to lean the case quite a lot and stop the pump repeatedly to get all the air out despite the CPU block being a decent distance below the reservoir while filling the loop... There was a bit of a curve in the soft tubing I was using and that seemed to collect air consistently.
I'm not sure if this solution is actually easier than just using a reservoir that has an integrated chamber for the pump, like Daniel's reservoirs from Singularity Computers. Considering I've not used one of his reservoirs and you now have access to both, you'd probably be a far better judge of that.
I'm using the AM5 version of that block/pump/res unit in my Fractal Torrent build. Got a 80mm thick 2×180mm Alphacool Monsta radiator on the front with the stock 38mm-thick Fractal 180mm fans and an EK P240M radiator in the bottom with 30mm-thick Phanteks T30 fans, leaving me very little room for a normal pump/res setup.
Also, I ended up just attaching a fill line to one of the fill ports on the block and routing that to one of the Torrent's fill port holes at the top of the case so that it acts like a T-line reservoir. Without that, it just makes the initial fill and priming really difficult...
I would be tempted to just run with the fill line for a few days to let the bubbles clear, then suck out any excess water from the line, remove it and plug the port. Then just run it as an AIO.
It might need topping off every so often, but that is no different to maintaining an open loop really.
EK for some reason the past few years has yes made the nicest components and you pay for the look and for the materials they use (usually the best) but the past few years I find some issue in everything I buy from them. It's nice to see Jay gets the same parts we do, but it's usually not a giant issue to fix whatever is coming off or is mis aligned. EK still makes the nicest stuff in my opinion. They just need better QC
what kind of issues this you get?
@@rogermichto6359 Tolerances mostly, things not aligning up. It has happened with at least 90% of items I buy from them, personally it does not effect my PC because I like to mod and I'll just do whatever it takes to make it work, but people who are new to this and pay a premium for EK thinking they are the best, it's a issue if screws do not line up or a bracket mount is mis-aligned you know?
Learned a lot actually, and thanks for disassembly, hope we can see more of it as it helps us decide to purchase things or not!!
This would have been awesome 5-7 years ago. Back when components where low enough power to really fit in small cases.
Reminds me of the Ghost S1 build you did. I would love to do a similar build with my watercooled 2080.
Even my current build, this would have made life a lot easer. There's not a lot of space in a Fractal R6 after you add a pair of thick 360mm rads.
Love that the RGB wasn't stuck in. It makes it way easier to remove and through in the bin.
Every one is always on about putting the rad higher than the block but always seems to forget to mention that there are actually some AIO's where the pump is situated inside the rad and not the block. Antec neptune is one of them
Finally we can have AIO like custom loop!
Besides Barrow and others modultra makes similae interesting combo units!
The radius of the bend will dictate the flow of the water. Hard bends create turbulence, where as sweeping bends do not. But you would run out of room really quick using sweeping bends compared to hard 90's.
Air is a fluid Jay.
he should use the term liquid, not fluid but it's obvious what he means
When watercooling, your thermal mass comes from the water. You don't want a massive waterblock and a thinner cold plate is better than a thicker one...
Swiftech used a DDC pump; the DDC 4.2 just has better PWM control but its the same pump.
Interesting for SFF, but as someone whose primary liquid-cooling motivation is silent operation, the DDC pump is a non-starter. I could be interested if they do something similar with a D5.
I love this! I'm ordering one as soon as it comes out in all black
Good job Jay!
Several companies have already done this, i have a Pump/Res/Block on my old lga 2011 system
Asetek sued them all, so theyre not available in the US
@@mycosys When do those cocksuckers lose their copyright (expire)?
@@mycosys cant wait till they go under screw those patent troll clowns
Kinda funny, I just bought it from a US retailer about 6 months ago. Nothing like the Asetek units.
@@WarhorseS197 "Patents and lawsuits
The company is well known for its patents and for its practice of pursuing ongoing litigation. It holds patents to many OEM liquid cooling systems and many liquid cooling pumps. The company also holds the patent for having the pump within the water block (the part that goes over the CPU or GPU). Many companies have also released models of liquid cooling AIO (all-in-ones) with this design. As such, Asetek has taken many companies to court on such charges.[17] Asetek has successfully sued Cooler Master, Corsair and CoolIT Systems over these charges.[17][18][10][19]
Patent losses
On October 12, 2020 the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office (PTAB) issued a Final Written Decision rejecting Asetek’s challenge all 21 claims of the CoolIT Systems ‘200 patent were invalid in light of certain combinations of prior art.[20] As a result, all 21 claims of the CoolIT Systems ‘200 patent survived without amendment.[21] [22][23] "
This should be absolutely fine with the radiator at the bottom of the case, since it has a small reservoir above the pump. Air will collect inside the reservoir, not the pump.
I am currently planing my own top-end ITX build (including custom case), and this was a god send for about 2min of research...
Apparently EK is not producing a AM4 variant.
Let's see what the future brings, as I won't be done until the next few weeks. A AM4 variant would change the entire design, as I could shave down at least 6cm of the length of the case.
To address your concern about pump being too high in the loop, I suggest an inverted build.
The ending was great. 😁
Don't worry Jay, when you've tinkered with things as long as us silly things like that happen. Thankfully for me I'm rarely in front of a camera.😉
I was going to ask for a video of Jay assembling this back together again and then I saw the last few seconds of this clip... Thank you for the belly laugh!
You could probably just set a static rpm on your setup if you do intend on mixixng/match pumps. Just adjust it until theres no ripple/noise, then wait a week, adjust again once the air in the system collates.
Would love to see you do a small form factor build with this. Going to use this one myself.
I usually get my watercooling stuff as new mounting solutions are needed, I buy their old stuff for cheap on my older system. My system has NO reservoir and the pump is a variable thing that I got from banggood and it works great. This thing would have been great for my build but I can't complain about getting a full copper nzxt intel 9th/10th/11th gen Waterblock for £20, I kid you not. I love eBay sometimes.
Damn that is impressive
Even I am not a fan of water cooling, that combo got me interesting and I am thinking to build the smallest build using it in 6 liter SGPC case.
heavy sinks like that can tweak your mobo over time. Back in the day, I had a big Zalman full copper "fan out" sink. My machine would reboot if the big heavy front door shut a little hard. The wave through the floor and the weight, after a few weeks, made the system reboot. Put it on a desktop, no problem.
4:38 Air is a fluid, the correct way to say it was "air is a gas not a liquid"
A fluid is anything that flows.
Do nto want to be picky, just make some free information :)
EK quality control strikes again
Me with my Alphacool DC-LT Solo-powered, fully watercooled 6L case: welcome to the party, Jay!
This will change so much in the way we have to route our tubing.
11:57 they don’t peel the backside of the stick so it can be disassembled. If you want to paint or modify there components it’s easier.
You can take the combo pump from an AIO and connect it to a loop I know this because I've done it many times, I've also built my own GPU bracket out of nickel plate so I can fit a second AIO pump to the GPU. This not only looks good it's very efficient very cost affective.
That look at the end when you show the screw re-mounted backwards ... how many times ... so many when my wife sees it, she comments 'what did you do this time?' ... but this is why we do tech and we're not in Indy or Monaco this week turning bolts on race cars...
I have to disagree with Jays thoughts about using dual or multiple pumps in the same loop. Fluid flow is not like a model car that slows down. The flow rate is exactly the same along the entire loop length. Its actually perfectly fine to use pumps at completely different speeds or different types together. The centrifugal pump is always spinning far faster than the fluid flowing through the loop, so even if one pump is running at full speed and another at minimum speed it has no effect except that their head pressures combine to produce the same flow rate as if it was a single pump producing the same pressure. If it was two pumps just pumping from like one big container to another with only tubing between then maybe it wouldn't be ideal. In a real pc loop though the resitriction to water flow is so high that the flow rate is lower than a single pump at min speed can produce with zero resistance. We used to test all this sort of stuff back in the day.
Also, don't expect a second pump to make a big difference. Fluid dynamics dictates that to double flow rate through a loop, 4 times the pump pressure is needed. That doesn't even mean that 4 identical pumps will double flow rate vs a single pump. A pump's pressure drops as flow rate increases. So to double flow rate requires even more than quadruple the pumps. In a real system flow rate has to drop a long, long way before it has more than a neglible impact on cooling and with the days of multi GPU systems long gone a single decent pump is plenty for any loop you can realistically build.
16:00 Redundancy is good only if you dont go D5 pumps otherwise just one D5 will have plenty of pressure for even the biggest loops, but DDC pumps are generally weaker. D5s put out 30+psi which is more than plenty. I run two 420 rads with distro plate pump combo (D5) through cpu/gpu blocks and run low rpm and my temps are ice cold on 4090/5800X3D.
I ran the ek quantumX delta tec for a year with a 10900k, that was fun to explain to people what it was. I ran two pumps in a 5000d case. changing out the tubing and or coolant was fun.
Thank GOODNESS for you checking this gear out! I was just looking for ANY video on the net showing the cables and I couldn't find ANY.
I wonder if these can be modded to fit on a JHACK or a a 4 pin fan header.
8:53 - its only more surface area, the higher density of the fins the slower liquid moves through them removing heat from the coldplate.
Which is why you prime and load the system externally with another power supply using the green wire trick, THEN put the unit in your case.
Nothing wrong with a D5 and a DDC in the same loop. I've had mine set up like this since 2015. The trick is, you want to use the D5 to supply the DDC.
The D5 will out flow the DDC making it more or less free spin. BUT when pressure is needed the DDC will be able to provide that pressure very easily AND keep the flow rate up thanks to the D5.
Fluid dynamics is awesome! Check out some engineering articles that reference high flow and high pressure pumps working in the same system. It's actually one of the best ways to boost performance in a configuration like a PC water build.
Alphacool already did something similar called the "Eisbaer (Solo)", you can get it for about 70€.
Used it on my rig just to save money & it managed a good flow for my CPU, GPU & 420 rad. & the pump is silent !
That blooper made my day! :D
In my very limited experience with ddc pumps, the black plastic piece (impeller) in the the magnetic rotor can bend very easily if running without being completely filled up (attempts to repair the bend will most likely break it instead), but even with a new one, fully filled up, a sudden movement, like a 1.5cm fall (my finger slipped and it was the only thing separating the case from the table so a very short fall on one side) while running, can move the rotor to make contact which bends that plastic part. It starts to rattle even at low speeds. And you can't find it anywhere online, gotta buy a full new pump to replace it. So my suggestion is to make sure rpm is low while you fill it up, make plenty of 'gentle' twists to make sure it's filled, avoid moving it while it's on, have a third hand on the power switch at all times to turn it off as soon as it rattles and pray it's not bent if it does.
I’ve been WAITING to see your review on this!
That's an ASUS cooler right. ;) Woo woo just kidding. Hay that would make a good segment " Messin with Jay " That would be hilarious. Great video thanks guys. You Rock. :)
i think you mixed up jet plate and flow plate.
The jet plate is the one with the slit as the narrow passage speeds up plow eg creating a water jet and the flow plate or more accurately cold plate is the plate with the fins directing the flow.
Yes, I’ve learned something new and useful, thanks 😁
Modern motherboard can power pump via 4pin. Dont need additional power from sata/molex from psu.
Swiftech did this with their h220 then got patent trolled my asetech. And their pumps were great. Still using my h220 on my 5950x today.
Yep, still using the H220-X on my 4790k 8 years later. Only thing to die on it was the little light for the different colored logo filters.
Patiently waiting for the build
It's nice that they didn't tape the RGB strip tho. If you don't want to use it, you can just dissasemble it, take the strip out and get rid of that cable for a cleaner cable management.
Perfect timing with "Do as I say, not as I do" 🤣
Jay you should make an SFF build with this one. I’d love to see one
Although I'm nowhere close to building a water cooled pc right now I love to see water cooled builds, hope you can do more of them :3
9:50 flow is the opposite to what you said, its input into the pump through the middle and output through the sides. so the flow in the waterblock plate is 2 inputs on the sides, and sucks into the bomb through the hole of that little plate.
Low key i LOVE the idea they leave the LED strips untaped.
With my Water cooled PC 😢 white LED and black or off all together.
Being able to remove the LED strip inside the GPU block that just omnipresently glowed on the inside was VERY helpful in achieving my theme goals.
Only issue i had with EK is this quality control. Having paid 500$ for a active water backplate i would expect all the hardware to be unused and perfect...
But the standoffs were cross threaded from factory and almost couldnt even take the block apart to even install it!
They freely replaced ALL the standoffs and made it right, but buying a 2nd set of EK products had more over sights in their "quality control" but OTHERWISE their products are INSAINLY NICE.
Their customer service is 2nd to none. And overall would hands down use their products again!
Jay 100% on point my loop is actually "effecient" because goal was as little restriction from one end of the loop to the other and actually achived it!
Isn't Plexiglas (the brand name) or plexiglass is PMMA acrylic? Lexan would be polycarbonate. One interesting thing to do with acrylic is to bond pieces together using acrylic specific solvent or adhesive, so one might make a hardtubed open loop with as less fittings and couplers possible. Or make the all hard line build?
Every time Jay says "fluid" instead of "liquid" take a shot
Every single velocity 2 backplate I have used always has one of those screws falling out. They are actually super annoying to attach. I also hate that they don't come with any nylon washers, and it practically sits right on traces depending the motherboard.
Could you use one of the extra port to run a dead end pipe to the top of the case?
So you can have a easy filling point and a very very small reservoir
yes. U can even connect there leakshield or additional reservoir and leakshield.
Best I ever had was a 5,25 bay reservoir pump combo I mounted vertical it ran for like 10 years never failed.
I use a qd adapter for my reservoir. I grabbed a Nouvolo Aquanaut when it came out for a low-profile block/pump.
that unit do have a small tank, so it does have a inlet, outlet and fillport, also i am using this combo unit in the louqe ghost s1 with ek low profile 90s fitting and two 240mm radiators