I space 1/2” balusters at 4 1/4” center to center. This leaves a 3 3/4” space between, which comfortably passes the code of “less than 4 inches” of space between them. Measuring on the rake, you need to space them about 5 1/4” center to center to get the sane 3 3/4” spacing when measuring the spacing between balusters horizontally, as the inspector will do. Just use a level to mark on the rake wall cap where 4 1/4” is when measuring horizontal. Then see what that spacing measures on the rake, and go with that number.
They are designed for the round end to go into the railing. The square end goes at the bottom and the hole is covered by an iron boot that tightens in place with a set screw.
Codes can very, depending on where you live. So I can not say for sure what your local code requires. But, I would think a handrail is required where you are, even in residential buildings, and homes. Residential guardrail height, where I am, is 36” minimum. I always go 38”. Handrail height is 34” to 38”. This is the International Building Code requirement, which I believe to be universally adopted. But then each state, county, and city may have added to or adjusted parts of that code.
This guy's head webcam (who's building stairs in Idaho) and his background music makes me feel like I'm witnessing a stair-building race that's second-to-none. The Idaho guy wins! Good stuff guy in Idaho! :)
Code specifies the space between balusters must be less than 4”. I was using 1/2” balusters, so 4.25” spacing to baluster center gives me a safe 3.75” spacing between the balusters. When measuring on the rake wall, rather than horizontally,, then measuring around 5.25” to center of balusters will space them the same as measuring 4.25” horizontally
Exactly the same layout as my project, big difference between an experienced journeyman and a rookie, don’t know if I’m up to it. Got all the tools but anyone can buy tools.
Tools are half the battle. Having experience is important. Not necessarily with stairs, but just building in general. Having the time to not rush through it, will be a huge part of a successful install. There will be plenty of pressure on you to make it look presentable, without wasting expensive parts. You do not want to have a short deadline hanging over your head.
Hi, could you please tell me how do you attach wood posts to the wall and how do you connect wood rails to wood post ? do you use just regular screws ? Also could please tell me how do you attach those metal rods to the rail and at the bottom ? What type of glue do you use? and Why are you tightening it at the end ? I am planning on starting my stairs this week and your response would be much appreciated. It is a great video but if you could speak while you are doing it would be even better. Thank you for the upload.
Well been a while seen you asked but if it’s any help, he used rail bolts. Look like 4 inch in from null to rail and also from wall to rail. Just makes everything tighter and more secure, on the balusters I’m not sure but you can also use epoxy glue, works amazing! And about tightening the shoes, they don’t actually have to if you don’t want them to.
Can you describe your steps for finishing the wood? Do you use a dye or stain? How many coats of urethane do you use and how do you apply (rag, brush or other)? Do you sand between coats? Finish looks great!
Sorry, I cannot help you with that. That is not my specialty. The crew that is responsible for painting the house generally takes care of finishing the wood products as well.
very nice work. One question....when you put bolts into the floor for the newels, I did not see you putting nuts in through the holes in the newels before you tightened them down. What did you tighten the bolts holding down the newels with?
My head was up really close to the post when I was putting the washers and nuts on. The camera only showed an extreme closeup of the post, so I cut that part out. Starting the nuts can be tricky. Small hands helps!! I tighten them with a standard wrench that I thinned down with a grinder. This allows me to turn the nut just enough that I can reset the wrench for the next 1/8 of a turn. It is tedious, and not damaging the 1” hole is extremely important if you want it to look professional when the hole is plugged.. Thanks for watching!
Hi Eric. Is it fine to use one 4 inch long 1/4 thick screw to attach railing to newel post and walls instead of rail bolts and lag bolts and all that you were mentioning in the comments ? Because I do not know what they mean so using just screws; is that fine ?
Having never done this before it’s something I’d absolutely not try doing alone the first time. Definitely would want someone helping me that’s done it before.
They come either flat or angled. The angled shoes are all the same pitch,, about 39 or 40 degrees. This matches the pitch of most staircases pretty well ( they are about 36 to 38), usually leaving a small gap at the short side. Much better than years ago when they came at about 35 degrees, usually leaving a much more noticeable gap at the long point. We have an adjustable table grinder we use to change the pitch if needed. Any time I install a curved staircase, changing the angle is required since the pitch on the inside rail is closer to 45 degrees, and the outside rail is around 20 to 30. Thanks for watching!!
Great stuff! The tip on attaching the handrail to the newel was helpful... I bought the fancy zip hardware to do that, but I think it might be too close to the end balusters to use. Just drilling, running the bolt in, and adding a plug might be the way to go for me. What adhesive did you use for retaining the balusters?
The plugs can be bought from stair part companies, or you can buy plug cutting bits for use on a drill press. There are a variety of sizes. I use 1” and 1/2” plugs.
Hi, what was the driver you used to drive in the anchor bolt for the newel post? In the past, I've used a double nut and a socket, but I didn't see a nut on your bolt. Thanks.
It is a driver for the bolts, can be purchased from stair part supply companies. A large pair of vise-grips will work. I have also made a driver using an all-thread coupler, small piece of all-thread and the time-tested double-nut tactic.
Good vid, nice pace to get it all in. On a sloped handrail, what would be best way to not drill through top - lag same way from below? Would hanger bolt be better? ( I can remove the newel post to fit it because it bolts to end of knee wall instead of floor)
@@IdahoStairs that is absolutely insane for your level of expertise. This is a $40,000 job in Naples Florida. I’ve gotten a few estimates for 7 posts and handrails for 35-40k
What material are you using for your knee cap. Is that knotty Alder as well? And is it a cap? Or 1x6 or 8. Can you use 1 x 6 or does it have to be cap. Excellent work by the way. Great video!
I use two different drivers. One to drive a 1/4” shaft bolt for the handrail, and one to drive a 5/16” shaft bolt for the posts. Although I see people often use the quarter inch shaft for both the post and the handrail. The drivers can be purchased from most staircase supply companies. I’m sure you can order them on line. If it is not something you’re going to be doing on a regular basis, a pair of vise grips will work fine for driving them in.
Building codes can vary, but usually it requires the that the top of the rail is between 34” and 38”. To properly measure height, measure straight up from the tip of the treads. Balcony railing must have a minimum height of 36” for residential, and 42” for commercial. Again building codes can vary.
@@IdahoStairs to clarify: tip of the tread, so the nosing for tread right ? I have a housed stair stringer with knee wall like in your video and was afraid that spindles will look small. Thank you.
Yes measure straight up from the nosing of the tread.. and with a pony wall, the balusters can look very short, especially if the wall is any higher than it needs to be. The only thing you can do to help is to put your rail as high as possible which would be 38 inches. If the treads do not have carpet or hardwood on them yet, then you can get away with 39 inches
@@IdahoStairs thank you so much for your reply. I was thinking going with 40 inches from the finished tread but that is beyond what code allows so... Thanks again.
@@IdahoStairs I apologize, if you could answer my last question. Is there any difference in height requirements in code between a handrail and guardrail ? A guy says you can you 42 inches for guardrail.
Sorry, been crazy busy. Long days and weekends. I have done a little editing, but still needs a lot of work. I appreciate your interest, and it should help my motivation.
Where can one purchase those threaded sockets? I have never seen one of those. For the newel or rail fastening? Most of the time I see videos where guys are taking locking pliers to them.
Can find them both online. Hanger bolt driver- we use 6” long, 3/8” diameter bolt. I have a 9/16” wrench with the neck thinned down to make it possible to tighten the nut inside the 1” hole. Rail bolt driver-drives a 1/4” diameter, 3” long bolt. Nut is tightened with a 1/2” rail bolt wrench (can also be bought online). Or customize a regular wrench.
Hey, thanks for sharing this video this is so helpful. I just got a question, I did not get pretty clear about the spindles layout, if you can help me out with that I'll really appreciate it
Most places require the spindles have no more than 4” of space between them. So considering the thickness of the spindle, and the size of the space, try to equally space the needed number of spindles.
why no rosettes?lol..........i do like the way you mounted the straight rail and how you added your own blocking to receive the bolt because framers never know where to add such blocking for us it seems ughhhh
Ya, amazing the builders let the framers get away it over and over again. Then they act like it is my fault they have a hole in their wall. Thanks for watching!
Hi eric on your first run of stairs whats your height up for the handrail on the newel post and then on the wall for the other end? What pitch is the stairs..thanks
David Mcclements the post was cut so the top of the rail would be at 36” above the tip of the treads. The video did not show this step. The video showed me making sure the rail was a consistent height above the rake wall. The height of the post, and the height the rail attaches to the wall varies depending on the location of these objects relative to the steps. Place a straight edge on the stairs. Measure STRAIGHT up 36” from the edge running along the tip of the treads. This should be where the top of the rail hits. Code requires it is between 34” to 38”.
WorldCommander you can drill through the bottom of the rail and use use a rail bolt. Proper placement and angle will be important, to avoid drilling through the top of the rail, or having your wrench tear up the sheetrock. Very few people have the eye to see a well done 1/2” plug in the top of the rail. So I choose the method of attachment you saw in the video.
Very nice work my man very clean and neat. I thought I was the only one who pulls the bags off there mitersaw. Is that red box at the bottom your hardware kit? Home made?
I do not glue the rail to the posts. These things are made to be disassembled without any damage to the wood, once the plugs covering the screws and hardware are removed. I have demoed and removed many staircases in my time, it is rare to disassemble one that has the post and the rail glued together. In most cases the ones that are glued together were improperly installed with out using correct hardware, and depending on finish nails and glue to hold it in place. Thanks for watching
Sorry, we do not do the stain. Usually the company that paints the houses takes care of the handrail finish. Specialization gives the most professional results.
The metal spindles are round at the top 1”, but square the rest of the way. So you can do it without the shoe under the rail, but, unless you make a square hole in the bottom plate, you need the shoe the cover. Or go with round metal bars....
how did you learn this type of work? working for someone or figuring it out on your own? ive never built starirs but that is where I want to be. STAIRS1
I started out working in the shop of a stair company. It was supposed to just be a summer job, but I really liked it. I worked in the shop for six years, then started installing.
@@IdahoStairs I've seen alot of people install the balusters after the rail. I've always drilled 3/4" top and bottom, cut my balusters 1 1/2" longer than what I measured and then installed my balusters first then installed the rail on the balusters. After the adhesive drys inside top and bottom of each baluster it gives the rail even more strength. Does the way you do it give the rail plenty of strength, wobble side to side wise? 6010 rail is the main one everybody uses here and long stretches has that wobble as you know. Btw, always love the s 7011's going around a wall to make the rail continuous. Love over the post systems.
I am about to undertake a job similar to this one only the oak railing has pre-existing wood balusters. I just removed the wooden baluster and was watching to see how you secured them in place Are saying that you secured the square ended balusters into rounded holes using liquid nails and finishing it with the metal boot? please tell me its that easy!?!?
Ben Breeg if your wood balusters were round at the top then you probably have the right size hole already drilled into the railing to accept a 1/2” square iron baluster, and the spacing should already be correct for building codes. What size hole was drilled into the bottom plate/stair tread is the next question. But, in theory, yes, that simple. Either the top or bottom hole must be deep enough to accept extra baluster length until the baluster fits between the rail and bottom plate.
I'm literally doing this right now except the 1/2 inch iron ballisters didn't come with shoes and I'm punching out the square holes manually with a square punch after drilling a half inch hole with a butterfly bit. This is making the job a bit tough though because you need a lot of force to punch those round holes square, so I have to map out the spacing before hand., and smash that square hole punch with a hammer on a hard surface so it won't break all my mitre's. Do you have any advice/suggestions on how to punch out 1/2 inch square holes straight down on a 40 degree incline accurately? I've been looking everywhere on the internet and can't find a decent solution....maybe I'll just fashion inside dowels...this is only my second stairwell, I don't do this work as a contractor I'm learning. An oversized hole and fill is not an acceptable look.
I cannot help you with that question. If it were me, I would just purchase the shoes and drill a round hole. A 1/2” square baluster requires an 11/16” hole to fit.
Sorry for the delayed response. I took the cowards way out. Home Depot sells a kit with rubber grommets and an anchor with a screw in it, You twist the baluster until its tightened and then add the top and bottom boot. It took me longer to cut the Balusters than it did to install....
Great informative video , the math on the separation of the spindles will bugger me up but sure I'll get through it. I hope you get paid a lot of $$ to do your job because it clearly takes some skill very few people have which makes you in demand. Cheers!
Great job! But you can save yourself a lot of time by drilling the hand rails at your table and then plumbing down the layout onto the cap. Interesting to see how others do it though.
Idaho Stairs I do my lay out on the steps and plumb up on those. It only works on pony wall rakes and balconies. The trick to this job is efficiency. The least amount of times you have to go up and down the faster you will be and make more money. You can measure that whole stair cap trim rails and post and just sit at your saw cutting everything and install after. This stair takes me 2 hours. 🙂
Are your posts solid or laminated? What hardware are you using for the flush mounted posts, they look bigger than anything Ive seen, all I can find are 3/8 thick, I want mine to be rock solid.
We use solid posts up to 4 1/2”. Anything bigger then we make them hollow (3/4” thick solid boards, mitered together) and slide them over a mounting block.
Idaho Stairs I work for a finish carpenter right now, started doing rails a couple of years ago, being a general finish carpenter I don't get to do stairs as much as id like but my skills on them are developing rapidly.
Idaho Stairs I install the lags like you but I made a end wrench to tighten the nut in the post. I mainly use 5” post and have always put the hole in the middle of the post.
I used a grinder to narrow the neck of a 9/16” wrench so it does not damage the 1” hole in the post. At some point i cut it in half to mount a post close to a wall. I use two lags mounted perpendicular to the railing for strength. Helps to minimize wobble in the post.
Really Looks like an average carpenter work could of notch the Nowel’s post around the caps did some routering on the edge of caps and some casing or base under caps instead of shoe molding Also I would never use spade bit for those holes on rails doesn’t leave a clean diameter. The metal baluster shoe caps on top are only made for bottom looks real tacky.
Thank you for your input. Thanks for watching Here is a link if you would like to view more of my average carpentry skills. www.dropbox.com/sh/chrqrnrojlzdnzm/AADVu2dwdmqi99yoEA2F9lV5a?dl=0
@@IdahoStairs OMG that is hilarious. As soon as I saw that comment about an "average" carpenter, I was like "oh boy". Classy reply, so good job on that. Clicked on your link to see the "average" work. WOW!!!!! lol Great work! I'm up north of you a bit, in CdA.
Great shots of some that knows what their doing.are you going to upload and more videos anytime soon as they are better that what's else is on the web.i hope your channel grows.
I have installed them without a shoe under the railing. The balusters have a rounded top, so this works fine. Since the bottom of the balusters are square, leaving the bottom shoe off is more challenging. I briefly worked for a company in Utah that had made their own pneumatic chisel contraption. They would use it to dig out square holes so they did need the shoes. If a customer really wanted balusters without boots, I would install round bars.
When I am not working 6 to 7 days a week (with no time to film, or edit videos) and I keep falling further behind. The Boise area is currently being flooded by people fleeing the mess of California. The housing market is crazy, with no signs of slowing down. Sorry
@@IdahoStairs that would be awesome. I just bought a house and new stairs and hand rails are needed. Im definitely a little nervous doing them myself but watching what you do makes it alot easier to understand what to do
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome video, nothing to complicated. Really easy to learn . Make more videos
Great info. I didn’t catch how you determined the layout on the rake?
I space 1/2” balusters at 4 1/4” center to center. This leaves a 3 3/4” space between, which comfortably passes the code of “less than 4 inches” of space between them.
Measuring on the rake, you need to space them about 5 1/4” center to center to get the sane 3 3/4” spacing when measuring the spacing between balusters horizontally, as the inspector will do.
Just use a level to mark on the rake wall cap where 4 1/4” is when measuring horizontal. Then see what that spacing measures on the rake, and go with that number.
AWESOME! Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you.
Nice work, can you tell me the brand of lag bolt and nut used for Newell post?
This guy is in complete beast mode!
Its official! I've watched all the other vids on stairs. This one is the best on youtube!
That was very cool show. Thanks for sharing.
I was wondering whether round end of the balusters goes into the handrail or the square one. please let me know.
They are designed for the round end to go into the railing. The square end goes at the bottom and the hole is covered by an iron boot that tightens in place with a set screw.
In a residential setting, where a hand rail is not necessary, do you need the guard rail to be at a handrail height ( Florida 38 inches)?
Codes can very, depending on where you live. So I can not say for sure what your local code requires. But, I would think a handrail is required where you are, even in residential buildings, and homes. Residential guardrail height, where I am, is 36” minimum. I always go 38”. Handrail height is 34” to 38”. This is the International Building Code requirement, which I believe to be universally adopted. But then each state, county, and city may have added to or adjusted parts of that code.
This guy's head webcam (who's building stairs in Idaho) and his background music makes me feel like I'm witnessing a stair-building race that's second-to-none. The Idaho guy wins!
Good stuff guy in Idaho! :)
I would have love to hear how you did your lay out and why, I'll go back and watch again see if I can figure it out
Code specifies the space between balusters must be less than 4”. I was using 1/2” balusters, so 4.25” spacing to baluster center gives me a safe 3.75” spacing between the balusters.
When measuring on the rake wall, rather than horizontally,, then measuring around 5.25” to center of balusters will space them the same as measuring 4.25” horizontally
@@IdahoStairs got it , that 5.25 is what was throwing me off, I didn't think about the rake wall, thanks for the response 👍 awesome work by the way.
Nice! Thanks for the explanation!
Exactly the same layout as my project, big difference between an experienced journeyman and a rookie, don’t know if I’m up to it. Got all the tools but anyone can buy tools.
Tools are half the battle. Having experience is important. Not necessarily with stairs, but just building in general. Having the time to not rush through it, will be a huge part of a successful install.
There will be plenty of pressure on you to make it look presentable, without wasting expensive parts. You do not want to have a short deadline hanging over your head.
Hi, could you please tell me how do you attach wood posts to the wall and how do you connect wood rails to wood post ? do you use just regular screws ?
Also could please tell me how do you attach those metal rods to the rail and at the bottom ? What type of glue do you use? and Why are you tightening it at the end ?
I am planning on starting my stairs this week and your response would be much appreciated.
It is a great video but if you could speak while you are doing it would be even better.
Thank you for the upload.
Well been a while seen you asked but if it’s any help, he used rail bolts. Look like 4 inch in from null to rail and also from wall to rail. Just makes everything tighter and more secure, on the balusters I’m not sure but you can also use epoxy glue, works amazing! And about tightening the shoes, they don’t actually have to if you don’t want them to.
Can you describe your steps for finishing the wood? Do you use a dye or stain? How many coats of urethane do you use and how do you apply (rag, brush or other)? Do you sand between coats? Finish looks great!
Sorry, I cannot help you with that. That is not my specialty.
The crew that is responsible for painting the house generally takes care of finishing the wood products as well.
How much do you charge for that work without materials?
very nice work. One question....when you put bolts into the floor for the newels, I did not see you putting nuts in through the holes in the newels before you tightened them down. What did you tighten the bolts holding down the newels with?
My head was up really close to the post when I was putting the washers and nuts on. The camera only showed an extreme closeup of the post, so I cut that part out.
Starting the nuts can be tricky. Small hands helps!! I tighten them with a standard wrench that I thinned down with a grinder. This allows me to turn the nut just enough that I can reset the wrench for the next 1/8 of a turn. It is tedious, and not damaging the 1” hole is extremely important if you want it to look professional when the hole is plugged..
Thanks for watching!
Hi Eric.
Is it fine to use one 4 inch long 1/4 thick screw to attach railing to newel post and walls instead of rail bolts and lag bolts and all that you were mentioning in the comments ? Because I do not know what they mean so using just screws; is that fine ?
It will work. That is how I attach the rails that follow the rake of the stairs to the newel posts.
@@IdahoStairs thank you sooo much.
Having never done this before it’s something I’d absolutely not try doing alone the first time. Definitely would want someone helping me that’s done it before.
U need right tools and machines so as measurements ur on the right track
Then you will save thousands!
The double newell bolts are a great idea as well
Are the baluster cap pieces that get Allan wrenched on special ordered to match the angle of the stairs/handrail?
They come either flat or angled. The angled shoes are all the same pitch,, about 39 or 40 degrees.
This matches the pitch of most staircases pretty well ( they are about 36 to 38), usually leaving a small gap at the short side. Much better than years ago when they came at about 35 degrees, usually leaving a much more noticeable gap at the long point.
We have an adjustable table grinder we use to change the pitch if needed. Any time I install a curved staircase, changing the angle is required since the pitch on the inside rail is closer to 45 degrees, and the outside rail is around 20 to 30.
Thanks for watching!!
Awesome thanks.
What’s the distance from the edge of handrail you drilled your hole for mounting to newel post and wall?
Around 1 1/2”
Great stuff! The tip on attaching the handrail to the newel was helpful... I bought the fancy zip hardware to do that, but I think it might be too close to the end balusters to use. Just drilling, running the bolt in, and adding a plug might be the way to go for me. What adhesive did you use for retaining the balusters?
Are you still building stairs? We are looking to hire someone for a railing remodel in the Bosie area.
Where did you get those hole fillers after drilling holes for post and rail? Or did you make them yourself? Thanks and nice work
The plugs can be bought from stair part companies, or you can buy plug cutting bits for use on a drill press.
There are a variety of sizes. I use 1” and 1/2” plugs.
Hi, what was the driver you used to drive in the anchor bolt for the newel post? In the past, I've used a double nut and a socket, but I didn't see a nut on your bolt. Thanks.
It is a driver for the bolts, can be purchased from stair part supply companies.
A large pair of vise-grips will work. I have also made a driver using an all-thread coupler, small piece of all-thread and the time-tested double-nut tactic.
Oh, and thanks for watching!
Good vid, nice pace to get it all in. On a sloped handrail, what would be best way to not drill through top - lag same way from below? Would hanger bolt be better? ( I can remove the newel post to fit it because it bolts to end of knee wall instead of floor)
WorldCommander you can mount through the opposite side of the post into the rail. Then the plug is on the post.
How much would all this cost to a customer? Material and labor?
$700 labor. Roughly $800 for parts
@@IdahoStairs that seems way to low on the labor. especially since you are majorly skilled and seem to perform this effortlessly
@@IdahoStairs I bet when the people from California move to Idaho they regret it with low pay.
@@IdahoStairs that is absolutely insane for your level of expertise. This is a $40,000 job in Naples Florida. I’ve gotten a few estimates for 7 posts and handrails for 35-40k
What material are you using for your knee cap. Is that knotty Alder as well? And is it a cap? Or 1x6 or 8. Can you use 1 x 6 or does it have to be cap. Excellent work by the way. Great video!
Awesome video man! One question, where did you get the bit to drill the bolts on the wall and floor, the one without head!
Thanks
I use two different drivers. One to drive a 1/4” shaft bolt for the handrail, and one to drive a 5/16” shaft bolt for the posts. Although I see people often use the quarter inch shaft for both the post and the handrail.
The drivers can be purchased from most staircase supply companies. I’m sure you can order them on line. If it is not something you’re going to be doing on a regular basis, a pair of vise grips will work fine for driving them in.
Hey, how high was the handrail in this project ? I am afraid mine will look small.
Building codes can vary, but usually it requires the that the top of the rail is between 34” and 38”. To properly measure height, measure straight up from the tip of the treads.
Balcony railing must have a minimum height of 36” for residential, and 42” for commercial.
Again building codes can vary.
@@IdahoStairs to clarify: tip of the tread, so the nosing for tread right ?
I have a housed stair stringer with knee wall like in your video and was afraid that spindles will look small.
Thank you.
Yes measure straight up from the nosing of the tread.. and with a pony wall, the balusters can look very short, especially if the wall is any higher than it needs to be. The only thing you can do to help is to put your rail as high as possible which would be 38 inches. If the treads do not have carpet or hardwood on them yet, then you can get away with 39 inches
@@IdahoStairs thank you so much for your reply.
I was thinking going with 40 inches from the finished tread but that is beyond what code allows so...
Thanks again.
@@IdahoStairs I apologize, if you could answer my last question.
Is there any difference in height requirements in code between a handrail and guardrail ?
A guy says you can you 42 inches for guardrail.
I have never done this kind of work, but you can tell when a expert is doing the job. Great job. 👍👍👍
Hey man when are you uploading your new vids...cant wait to see them:-)
Sorry, been crazy busy. Long days and weekends. I have done a little editing, but still needs a lot of work.
I appreciate your interest, and it should help my motivation.
Idaho Stairs come to California to do my stairs
Where can one purchase those threaded sockets? I have never seen one of those. For the newel or rail fastening? Most of the time I see videos where guys are taking locking pliers to them.
Or maybe its better described as a threaded driver bit?
Maybe that is just a socket with a nut on the end of it haha.
Can find them both online.
Hanger bolt driver- we use 6” long, 3/8” diameter bolt. I have a 9/16” wrench with the neck thinned down to make it possible to tighten the nut inside the 1” hole.
Rail bolt driver-drives a 1/4” diameter, 3” long bolt. Nut is tightened with a 1/2” rail bolt wrench (can also be bought online). Or customize a regular wrench.
Hey, thanks for sharing this video this is so helpful. I just got a question, I did not get pretty clear about the spindles layout, if you can help me out with that I'll really appreciate it
Most places require the spindles have no more than 4” of space between them. So considering the thickness of the spindle, and the size of the space, try to equally space the needed number of spindles.
wonderful job !
what type of wood were used in this project ?
Alder. Thanks for watching
I have a question where did you get that ratchet too tight bowl Into the handrail
It is a special 1/2” wrench, sold by stair part supply companies. Or you can thin down a normal wrench with a grinder.
This is a nice home
Love it.
Luv the open plan
Wow. U make it look easy!! Can U please tell me what the metal things that you use for the uprights are called?
Balusters. Around here, people often refer to them as spindles.
Very nice work!
Hi, like your job, have a question:
I have 24 feet both sides open balcony, how far apart should i put newel posts?
Thanks
Elijah Ponkratov We like to have no more than 8’ between posts.
Here we have code for distance between posts on deck and balcony that is no more than 6 feet.
Well that is unfortunate. So a 7’ opening must be divided into two 3 1/2’ sections? What area are you from?
You got skills Eric!
+Garrison Holdaway you must be referring to my incredible editing skills,,,,,
Garrison Holdaway l
why no rosettes?lol..........i do like the way you mounted the straight rail and how you added your own blocking to receive the bolt because framers never know where to add such blocking for us it seems ughhhh
Ya, amazing the builders let the framers get away it over and over again. Then they act like it is my fault they have a hole in their wall.
Thanks for watching!
@@IdahoStairs last time around i did a walk through with a builder before they sheet rocked.........and the blocking still didn't get added,lol
I have watched several videos and this one was great. No voiceover and you just get to watch and learn. May I ask what color stain you used? Thanks
I cannot tell you that. I do not do the staining or lacquering.
Just wondering how did you secure rod iron to wood? What kind of adhesive
We use epoxy to fix the iron balusters in place. But any construction adhesive will work.
No trim screws at all?
Hi eric on your first run of stairs whats your height up for the handrail on the newel post and then on the wall for the other end? What pitch is the stairs..thanks
David Mcclements the post was cut so the top of the rail would be at 36” above the tip of the treads. The video did not show this step.
The video showed me making sure the rail was a consistent height above the rake wall.
The height of the post, and the height the rail attaches to the wall varies depending on the location of these objects relative to the steps.
Place a straight edge on the stairs. Measure STRAIGHT up 36” from the edge running along the tip of the treads. This should be where the top of the rail hits. Code requires it is between 34” to 38”.
Thanks eric for your reply you work like a true professional ...
I hope you post more of your work as I find it very helpful and informative.
WoW ...you’re amazing worker. Congratulations!
The other end of the handrail attaches to wall (drywall) - what would be best way to do that end without drilling through top? Thanks, Eric!
WorldCommander you can drill through the bottom of the rail and use use a rail bolt. Proper placement and angle will be important, to avoid drilling through the top of the rail, or having your wrench tear up the sheetrock.
Very few people have the eye to see a well done 1/2” plug in the top of the rail. So I choose the method of attachment you saw in the video.
Wow! That is so awesome! Great job!
Great job, I would added a half post on each end and were your hand rail meets the sheetrock. 👍
Thanks for watching!
Very nice work my man very clean and neat. I thought I was the only one who pulls the bags off there mitersaw. Is that red box at the bottom your hardware kit? Home made?
+John Morehouse Yes, I took an old metal tool box and built a two-tier hardware box. Very high-class.
Idaho Stairs very cool
Why no glue on any connection points??
I do not glue the rail to the posts. These things are made to be disassembled without any damage to the wood, once the plugs covering the screws and hardware are removed. I have demoed and removed many staircases in my time, it is rare to disassemble one that has the post and the rail glued together. In most cases the ones that are glued together were improperly installed with out using correct hardware, and depending on finish nails and glue to hold it in place.
Thanks for watching
Hey the logic works out if the install is proper. Thanks for the quick reply!
Great work!! You are a true talent!!
I threw up a couple times but I got through it , my rail looks great thanks😕
Thanks for watching. Glad I could help.
What is it about me that makes all the ladies puke......? 🙂
Wonderful job!! Very thorough! I hope I can do this. I'm going to try anyways! Thanks for sharing!
Wish you would have shown the staining process
Sorry, we do not do the stain. Usually the company that paints the houses takes care of the handrail finish.
Specialization gives the most professional results.
What adhesive do you recommend for the metal balusters?
Any construction adhesive will work. We use a quickset two part epoxy. This way the balusters are already locked into place before I leave the site
@@IdahoStairs great thanks! Good vids by the way
Awesome work. Great videos 1 and 2
Thanks for watching!
What color do you used por the railing please
I do not know the name or color of the stain used on the rail. The crew who painted the house applied the stain.
Are those covers just for decoration? Can I get away with just putting in the spindle?
The metal spindles are round at the top 1”, but square the rest of the way. So you can do it without the shoe under the rail, but, unless you make a square hole in the bottom plate, you need the shoe the cover. Or go with round metal bars....
In California we don’t use those. We just use a shim on top and adhesive on the bottom with boot. Drill 11/16” for the spindles and you will be fine.
where did you get the balusters from?
All the stair part supply companies have them. I believe Lowe’s and Home Depot have them as well.
You can buy them from many places online.
All the stair part supply companies have them. I believe Lowe’s and Home Depot have them as well.
You can buy them from many places online.
how did you learn this type of work? working for someone or figuring it out on your own? ive never built starirs but that is where I want to be. STAIRS1
I started out working in the shop of a stair company. It was supposed to just be a summer job, but I really liked it. I worked in the shop for six years, then started installing.
Whats the height on that I always got
Height on what?
How deep are you drilling the holes for your balusters?
I drill the top hole about 1 1/4 inch deep. The bottom one 3/8 of an inch
@@IdahoStairs I've seen alot of people install the balusters after the rail. I've always drilled 3/4" top and bottom, cut my balusters 1 1/2" longer than what I measured and then installed my balusters first then installed the rail on the balusters. After the adhesive drys inside top and bottom of each baluster it gives the rail even more strength. Does the way you do it give the rail plenty of strength, wobble side to side wise? 6010 rail is the main one everybody uses here and long stretches has that wobble as you know. Btw, always love the s 7011's going around a wall to make the rail continuous. Love over the post systems.
I am about to undertake a job similar to this one only the oak railing has pre-existing wood balusters. I just removed the wooden baluster and was watching to see how you secured them in place
Are saying that you secured the square ended balusters into rounded holes using liquid nails and finishing it with the metal boot?
please tell me its that easy!?!?
Ben Breeg if your wood balusters were round at the top then you probably have the right size hole already drilled into the railing to accept a 1/2” square iron baluster, and the spacing should already be correct for building codes.
What size hole was drilled into the bottom plate/stair tread is the next question.
But, in theory, yes, that simple.
Either the top or bottom hole must be deep enough to accept extra baluster length until the baluster fits between the rail and bottom plate.
I'm literally doing this right now except the 1/2 inch iron ballisters didn't come with shoes and I'm punching out the square holes manually with a square punch after drilling a half inch hole with a butterfly bit. This is making the job a bit tough though because you need a lot of force to punch those round holes square, so I have to map out the spacing before hand., and smash that square hole punch with a hammer on a hard surface so it won't break all my mitre's. Do you have any advice/suggestions on how to punch out 1/2 inch square holes straight down on a 40 degree incline accurately? I've been looking everywhere on the internet and can't find a decent solution....maybe I'll just fashion inside dowels...this is only my second stairwell, I don't do this work as a contractor I'm learning. An oversized hole and fill is not an acceptable look.
I cannot help you with that question. If it were me, I would just purchase the shoes and drill a round hole. A 1/2” square baluster requires an 11/16” hole to fit.
What kind of adhesive do you use for the spindles?
It is a two part epoxy made by Dewalt. It has a four minute set up time, so you must move fast
PL makes a product called 8x
Work time is 24hours and is strong as concrete when dries.
Nice work! How long did this install take? Thanks.
That jobs takes me around 10 to 12 hours to install the wood parts. Then about two hours to install the iron balusters once it is stained.
@@IdahoStairs wood part includes stair treads?
im doing my own stairs and it has taken me 3 months. lol
IDAHO STAIRS, WHAT PRICE HAVE A WORK LIKE TAHAT?
Beautiful work.
Sorry for the delayed response. I took the cowards way out. Home Depot sells a kit with rubber grommets and an anchor with a screw in it, You twist the baluster until its tightened and then add the top and bottom boot. It took me longer to cut the Balusters than it did to install....
Great informative video , the math on the separation of the spindles will bugger me up but sure I'll get through it. I hope you get paid a lot of $$ to do your job because it clearly takes some skill very few people have which makes you in demand. Cheers!
Me puedes decir que color us an para el para manos por favor
How long are the lag bolts
6”
Great job! But you can save yourself a lot of time by drilling the hand rails at your table and then plumbing down the layout onto the cap. Interesting to see how others do it though.
Interesting...How do you do it when the stairs are solid steps, or false end-treads?
Idaho Stairs I do my lay out on the steps and plumb up on those. It only works on pony wall rakes and balconies. The trick to this job is efficiency. The least amount of times you have to go up and down the faster you will be and make more money. You can measure that whole stair cap trim rails and post and just sit at your saw cutting everything and install after. This stair takes me 2 hours. 🙂
I don't think this guy needs you're advice
Very nice.
what kind of wood posts are they?
Knotty Alder
Are your posts solid or laminated?
What hardware are you using for the flush mounted posts, they look bigger than anything Ive seen, all I can find are 3/8 thick, I want mine to be rock solid.
We use solid posts up to 4 1/2”. Anything bigger then we make them hollow (3/4” thick solid boards, mitered together) and slide them over a mounting block.
We're u using metric 👌👍
No. 1/2” for the rail bolts. 9/16” for the floor lags in the post.
Thanks for watching
really liking the knowhow, how come we done see you face, is it for the radio only.
I do not want my good looks to distract attention from the beauty of the stairs.
work of art........
Amazing 😉 .thanks for sharing 👍
Awesome, what part of Idaho are you from?
Boise area
Idaho Stairs nice, I did a rail in Boise today
Nice, you work for yourself or a company?
Idaho Stairs I work for a finish carpenter right now, started doing rails a couple of years ago, being a general finish carpenter I don't get to do stairs as much as id like but my skills on them are developing rapidly.
Good stair mechanic
Great job
such a great job..
What kind of end wrench are you using on you post lags.
To drive the lags in? Or tighten the nut in the post?
Idaho Stairs
I install the lags like you but I made a end wrench to tighten the nut in the post. I mainly use 5” post and have always put the hole in the middle of the post.
I used a grinder to narrow the neck of a 9/16” wrench so it does not damage the 1” hole in the post. At some point i cut it in half to mount a post close to a wall. I use two lags mounted perpendicular to the railing for strength. Helps to minimize wobble in the post.
It looks like you doing track homes I did that for many years piece work it fun but after doing it for to long it start to get boring
*tract
Really Looks like an average carpenter work could of notch the Nowel’s post around the caps did some routering on the edge of caps and some casing or base under caps instead of shoe molding Also I would never use spade bit for those holes on rails doesn’t leave a clean diameter. The metal baluster shoe caps on top are only made for bottom looks real tacky.
Thank you for your input.
Thanks for watching
Here is a link if you would like to view more of my average carpentry skills.
www.dropbox.com/sh/chrqrnrojlzdnzm/AADVu2dwdmqi99yoEA2F9lV5a?dl=0
@@IdahoStairs OMG that is hilarious. As soon as I saw that comment about an "average" carpenter, I was like "oh boy". Classy reply, so good job on that. Clicked on your link to see the "average" work. WOW!!!!! lol Great work! I'm up north of you a bit, in CdA.
Looks like you've done a few
Great shots of some that knows what their doing.are you going to upload and more videos anytime soon as they are better that what's else is on the web.i hope your channel grows.
Nice work on the hand rails. The noise played during video is **** and distracts from the video.
Great work have you ever done metal spindles without the shoes i have had several customers ask me about it in the last month
I have installed them without a shoe under the railing. The balusters have a rounded top, so this works fine.
Since the bottom of the balusters are square, leaving the bottom shoe off is more challenging. I briefly worked for a company in Utah that had made their own pneumatic chisel contraption. They would use it to dig out square holes so they did need the shoes.
If a customer really wanted balusters without boots, I would install round bars.
It looks so easy watching this video, but in DIY case it would be 1001 problem...🙂
More I watch, more I wanna do stairway!
Calidad 😀
I truly wish you were narrating your work vs the music but I can figure it out eventually. Thanks for the great videos though.
Thanks for the input. Thanks for watching!
When you going to make new videos????
When I am not working 6 to 7 days a week (with no time to film, or edit videos) and I keep falling further behind. The Boise area is currently being flooded by people fleeing the mess of California. The housing market is crazy, with no signs of slowing down.
Sorry
How come you stopped making videos? I liked them alot
Thank you! Maybe things will slow down enough this winter for me to work on a few videos
@@IdahoStairs that would be awesome. I just bought a house and new stairs and hand rails are needed. Im definitely a little nervous doing them myself but watching what you do makes it alot easier to understand what to do
Nice clean job. It would be great for the camera to be steady.
I keep watching I'm gonna throw up my supper
Nice video! I missed the part where you drill in the handrail I think. Otherwise, I would love a commentary and not the music. Great stuff. Thanks!
I like the job very beneficial