If your new balusters are a different size/diameter/dimension, then the holes drilled in the existing handrail may not be the right distance apart, or the right size to accept the new balusters. If your new balusters are the same dimensions (just a different 'look'), and you like your existing hand-rail, you may be able to salvage/re-use the existing hand-rail. The wood balusters in this video likely had a different diameter at their top than the iron balusters -- which is probably what informed the decision to replace the hand-rail and plate. Just my two cents as a DIY renovator.
@@LuckySawdust The trouble with that approach is that on many stairs the bottom of the baluster is fastened to the step itself, so you need to deal with the step, including the lag bolt coming out of the wood that holds the bottom. If you have to replace the steps, it makes baluster replacement a non-starter.
I really appreciate this video. I'm just not gathering why the handrail (and sometimes steps) need to be replaced. If you're using epoxy in the railing hole why did you have to replace the whole rail? If the bottom is held in by the shoes, why does it matter if the bottom is a hole instead of 1/2" recessed? Thank you.
Use Power Grab instead of the epoxy. A laser level works great when lining up the top rail holes. Also, just cut the baluster 1" longer than your daylight opening.
@@olegmandryk3610 you can, but liquid nails has a lower amount of play in it than the epoxy. The epoxy is a set and forget. The liquid nails flexes and can over time move the spindles out of the holes. Some people use liquid nails and are totally fine, but for $23 the epoxy is a better long term professional solution.
Yes. You can leave the handrail - the holes left by removing the wood balusters may line up for the iron balusters. If not you may need to drill new ones and repair old. You can also apply a colored polyurethane (sold at big box stores) to darken/change the color of the rail without a total strip and finish - or paint.
I have completed a tread replacement job in which some of the holes for the iron balusters in the stair rail were sloppily bored. Replacing the stair rails is outside the scope of my work, but I want to improve the appearance as a finishing touch, so I have bought pitch shoes and even corrected the pitch angle to perfectly match the rail angle. However, when the set screws are tightened, the pitch shoes tilt to an incorrect and inconsistent angle, so that their perfect fit to the rail is lost. To preserve the fit, It has been suggested to me that I avoid tightening the screws and instead glue the pitch shoes in place. How would you recommend dealing with this problem? If glue is the solution, could you please give instruction as to the best way to accomplish this without making a a big mess? Thank you.
5/8” is too tight for the square portion of the baluster. 🤔 I’m not understanding how to slide it up that 1 1/4” up into the handrail to place the baluster into the landing tread.
I used a 4-inch piece of the square baluster rod that I sawed off and then hammered that into each of the 5/8 inch holes to widen them a bit. That created just enough room to slide in the rods.
Hi, sorry I'm not a carpenter so this is why I'm asking. Why not put the epoxy in the bottom hole and the hand rail hole. Install the baluster at the bottom than install the railing right on top? Screw the railing in after.
Construction adhesive is a horrible choice. It has a hydraulic effect as it can push the balusters out of their holes. Just spend the money on epoxy and there will be no issues. Now, if you aren’t focused and are messing around, the epoxy will set before you straighten out your balusters.
@@awoodmann1746 You definitely misread his tone. Just because he used the term “horrible” doesn’t mean he was saying it with disgust. Try reading it from a different perspective and you won’t get your feelings hurt
@@Nicholas_gabriel shooting a 18g nail through the handrail horizontally can pin the spindle against the inside of the hole, not the best idea but works
Thank you, Stair Supplies, for posting this video. It is the best step by step instructional video to date.
Agreed! Best one I have found!
Any reason the handrails must be replaced? Can these just be installed as replacement balusters into the existing handrail and base plate?
If your new balusters are a different size/diameter/dimension, then the holes drilled in the existing handrail may not be the right distance apart, or the right size to accept the new balusters.
If your new balusters are the same dimensions (just a different 'look'), and you like your existing hand-rail, you may be able to salvage/re-use the existing hand-rail. The wood balusters in this video likely had a different diameter at their top than the iron balusters -- which is probably what informed the decision to replace the hand-rail and plate.
Just my two cents as a DIY renovator.
@@LuckySawdust The trouble with that approach is that on many stairs the bottom of the baluster is fastened to the step itself, so you need to deal with the step, including the lag bolt coming out of the wood that holds the bottom. If you have to replace the steps, it makes baluster replacement a non-starter.
I really appreciate this video. I'm just not gathering why the handrail (and sometimes steps) need to be replaced. If you're using epoxy in the railing hole why did you have to replace the whole rail? If the bottom is held in by the shoes, why does it matter if the bottom is a hole instead of 1/2" recessed? Thank you.
Its not necessary to replace handrail and steps , you can just send , & stain or paint them , and they will look like brand new
I was hopping to be able to reuse the handrails and baseboard.
Yes, if you have to redo the entire staircase, it moves from a DIY job to a very expensive pro job.
So the bottom holes have to be drilled exactly the same depth so the rail designs stay all level in line? Advice on how to make sure that happens?
To a set depth, simply wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit and stick the two ends together to form a “flag” on one side of the bit.
would construction adhesive do in place of expoxy ? thanks
Use Power Grab instead of the epoxy. A laser level works great when lining up the top rail holes. Also, just cut the baluster 1" longer than your daylight opening.
Use epoxy, not power grab or liquid nails. It will hold but will be softer holding than epoxy
What kind of epoxy can to use
@@olegmandryk3610 I use sure anchoring gel rom my supplier, 2 part self mixing
@@cameroncheaure6692 thank you. Can I use liquid nails for it?
@@olegmandryk3610 you can, but liquid nails has a lower amount of play in it than the epoxy. The epoxy is a set and forget. The liquid nails flexes and can over time move the spindles out of the holes. Some people use liquid nails and are totally fine, but for $23 the epoxy is a better long term professional solution.
What sort of glue do people recommend for us with the balusters to hold them securely in place in the wood? I will be placing shoes over them after.
Epoxy
What if I don't want to remove my old handrail? Do I just leave it? Is that possible?
Yes. You can leave the handrail - the holes left by removing the wood balusters may line up for the iron balusters. If not you may need to drill new ones and repair old. You can also apply a colored polyurethane (sold at big box stores) to darken/change the color of the rail without a total strip and finish - or paint.
Do they have these things for outdoor granite steps??
It seems There still extra space on the top, will cause unstable?
What too are you using to cut the metal
Grinder with a “Ridgid” ( Home Depot ) cut off wheel.
Hand held band saw.
I have completed a tread replacement job in which some of the holes for the iron balusters in the stair rail were sloppily bored. Replacing the stair rails is outside the scope of my work, but I want to improve the appearance as a finishing touch, so I have bought pitch shoes and even corrected the pitch angle to perfectly match the rail angle. However, when the set screws are tightened, the pitch shoes tilt to an incorrect and inconsistent angle, so that their perfect fit to the rail is lost. To preserve the fit, It has been suggested to me that I avoid tightening the screws and instead glue the pitch shoes in place. How would you recommend dealing with this problem? If glue is the solution, could you please give instruction as to the best way to accomplish this without making a a big mess? Thank you.
Hi, I think the balusters are awesome. I know it's mentioned as Single and Double Knuckle but I don't see them on the website. Could you help?
5/8” is too tight for the square portion of the baluster. 🤔 I’m not understanding how to slide it up that 1 1/4” up into the handrail to place the baluster into the landing tread.
I used a 4-inch piece of the square baluster rod that I sawed off and then hammered that into each of the 5/8 inch holes to widen them a bit. That created just enough room to slide in the rods.
Hi, sorry I'm not a carpenter so this is why I'm asking. Why not put the epoxy in the bottom hole and the hand rail hole. Install the baluster at the bottom than install the railing right on top? Screw the railing in after.
To much can go wrong with this method
That is the correct way to install metal balusters, this video is not. I have been doing stairs for over 30 years.
Why use epoxy? could construction adhesive be used?
Construction adhesive is a horrible choice. It has a hydraulic effect as it can push the balusters out of their holes. Just spend the money on epoxy and there will be no issues. Now, if you aren’t focused and are messing around, the epoxy will set before you straighten out your balusters.
It was just a question. But thank you for your response your the expert. You don't need to be a jerk.
@@awoodmann1746 You definitely misread his tone. Just because he used the term “horrible” doesn’t mean he was saying it with disgust. Try reading it from a different perspective and you won’t get your feelings hurt
@@thomasnorthcastle4130 Always have paper towles and baby wipes handy when using epoxy.
So how do you remove them
The original bottom piece has screws sticking up out of them, did you replace the whole bottom piece or drill the screws out?
They replaced.
what if your shoes don't have the set screw in them. they aren't metal
Why don't you just install the handrail in the later stage. This will enable easier installation ?
background music?
I usually just nail the top in lol so what if the nail bunches up the spindle won’t ever move
could you tell me what you mean ? do you add screw at the top ? and how. Thanks
@@Nicholas_gabriel shooting a 18g nail through the handrail horizontally can pin the spindle against the inside of the hole, not the best idea but works
Ill advice. Do not attempt to do what this alley carpenter is suggesting.!!! @@cameroncheaure6692
How do you maintain and clean them?
What saw is that to cut it?
why you guys shake the camera?