🚨Will Bosi VS Nalle Hukkataival in BOURDEN OF DREAM V17 9A
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- Bourden of Dreams is a 4-meter, 8-move boulder problem located in Lappnor, Finland. The problem was a long term project for Nalle Hukkataival, with the Finn dedicating three years, six climbing seasons and over 4000+ attempts.
Bourden of Dreams , originally known as the Lappnor project, had been on Nalle Hukkataival’s radar since the summer of 2013. After returning home from a climbing trip in Australia, a friend introduced Nalle to a problem they had found and, although the imposing boulder presented too much of a challenge for them, they thought it might be the perfect 8C project for Nalle.
The boulder instantly caught Hukkataival’s attention. A problem like this was a rare find for the Finn, not only would the Lappnor Project push the limits of the sport, but the pure and natural style of the climb is scarcely found in modern boulder ascents. There are no heel or toe hooks, kneebars, or long traverses that blur the lines between bouldering and sport climbing disciplines. Instead, the slick granite face of the Lappnor Project sits at a perfect 45°angle and is populated with just enough barely-there crimps and micro-crystals need to claim an ascent of the imposing boulder.
Almost immediately it became obvious that the problem represented a higher level of difficulty than anything Hukkataival had ever encountered previously. Generally, when it comes to boulder problems with a high degree of difficulty, Nalle is able to dial in all the individual moves within a session or two. However, after three sessions on this boulder, Hukkataival was yet to dial in a single move. After a further 10 sessions on the boulder, it became clear an early ascent was almost impossible, with Hukkataival still unable to stick most of the individual moves in isolation.
Despite the boulder problem only consisting of 8 moves, the sequence required to complete the line is an immense combination of physical and technical ability. It is so hard, in fact, that Nalle claimed that the starting move of the Burden of Dreams boulder is the hardest starting move he has ever attempted.
The route begins with two opposing sharp crimps, with the climber required to pull on using compression. The foothold offers little support, with the left foot starting on a little chip and the right foot fully extended to a slick edge. From there, the right hand goes to a “D-shaped” crimp, that must be hit extremely precisely so that it sticks, all while keeping tension on the poor right foothold and maintaining compression with the left starting hold. The left foot then flags under the right, and the left hand goes to a barely there intermediary crimp, then quickly moves to a gaston, with the right-hand matching on the same hold rail with a pinch directly beside the left.
After this, the penultimate move of the route awaits; a dynamic sequence to the sloper directly under the lip. After testing a dyno to the sloper with both hands, Nalle found the only way he could stick the move was with the left-hand dyno and cutting loose with both feet. The mantle top-out is one of the more manageable sections on the 8-move boulder, although still requires plenty of concentration to finish the problem.
First Ascent
24th Oct 2016: Nalle Hukkataival
Second Ascent
12th Apr 2023: Will Bosi
Third Ascent
27th Dec 2023: Simon Lorenzi
#boulder9a #bouldering
Great video but the description is wrong in a few points. Bosi obviously didnt have the first and only ascent at any point, because as we can see in the video, Nalle did the FA of Burden of Dreams. Bosi was the first to repeat though. Also, when you uploaded this video in Feb 2024 Simon Lorenzi already managed the third ascend of BoD (i think late Dec 2023) - so Will was not the only repeat either.
ChatGPT description lmao
@@bradenhearn5951yeah really seems like it no? Just wanted to give some constructive criticism tho
Will basically executed the same beta but one second faster :o his style is a bit less static than nalle's maybe because his fingers are freakish strong so he needs less tension, or maybe from practicing on the replica
Ummm, watch again. Nalle tops out first
@@BoboBishWill is consistently about one second ahead of Nalle including getting his heel on the top first. He just does the mantle a bit slower
Wow! I didn’t know there was footage of Nalle’s send!
There's slightly higher quality continuous footage in the film made about the ascent.
why does Nalle's footage jump and goes to black sometimes? The camera angle moves slightly as well, looks almost fake, like it's a bunch of different ones edited together, but maybe its just edited that way?
Don't know why they cut it, but if you pay online there is the complete video/film without any cut
Everytime I see Nalle's it seems weird that it has skips in it. Shouldn't it be uncut? Weird.
That's because he spent alot of time in that one position. Uncut footage was in the film If I remember correctly.
Only free vid about FA is cut from behind-the-paywall documentary 'The Night of", supplementary to 'The Lappnor project' -document.
Considering how much there are unfounded claims to undermine Nalle's efforts and the send, it would be nice if He and document makers would just release uncut raw video footage from the night of FA for free. Historic significance of the send have been ever increasing, and it just waste everyone's time to read those same suspicious comments 6 and half years later.
Nalle was alone, and didn't expect to send that night. We are lucky there are any footage at all, but it is intrinsically clear from his 'The Night of' interview made few hours after the send he truly did it. Existing freely available footage is the cut from that interview, where he explains his immediate after-thoughts, feelings and details of the climb. Interview parts are removed (that's why there are cuts, including frame long spooky face of Nalle). Such video couldn't exist without full raw footage.
ADD/EDIT: I checked it to refresh my mind and for confirmation. Full, uncut send footage is at the end of 'The Night of' -supplement documentary.