Is 'Burden Of Dreams' The World's Hardest Boulder? | ft. Will Bosi
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- Опубликовано: 23 апр 2023
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About The Guest:
Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world.
This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more!
Full Show Notes 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episode...
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![Trying World's Hardest Boulder, V17 [Ft. Exclusive Will Bosi Post Send]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/y1d2TuekkZ8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Trying World's Hardest Boulder, V17 [Ft. Exclusive Will Bosi Post Send]](/img/tr.png)
Listen to the full episode 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosi
Or you can check out our library of 150+ interviews with the biggest names in climbing 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/all-episodes
love how humble Will is describing his send of Honey Badger -- "I got completely lucky, getting every move perfect" as if that isn't attributable to his unbelievable skill, strength and climbing instinct rather than luck lol
In a way, you create luck through repetition and practice so that when you get "lucky" with all the perfect conditions, you know how to capitalize on such luck
@@KhangLePr0 exactly!
It sounds like Will is very good at getting things dialed in perfectly and then executing like a Scottish assassin.
I mean there's also something to be said for the difficulty of figuring out beta during a first ascent as opposed to a repeated climb.
I can agree, but that takes us back to the grade discussion of Bibliography. Stefano Ghisolfi found better beta than what Alex Megos used and downgraded the route. It would be way too difficult to measure the difficulty of the process of figuring out beta imo. I think it's a more objective measure if you base the grade of a climb on the most optimal way to climb it. This way more people have to try it before a consensus is reached. This of course brings us down to the unsolvable part of grading which has to do with different body morphologies.
Will is so chill and humble, love to hear his perspective on things. I was a bit bummed when he was low-key downgrading Alphane but I understand his viewpoint now, and it's still 9A for him now that he's reflected on it.
Thanks for the insights! So looking forward to a BoD documentation!
You should go an repeat honeybadger now and see if its easier in comparison knowing what you know now I think would give you a good idea on grades and improvements 🤙 absolute hero 💪
Honey Badger is almost always wet sadly.
@@DaleTurrell where is honey badger in the uk?
@@DaleTurrell that's awesome I'm hoping to hit the peak district up soon with a good group. I'll be sure to hit them all up 💪🤙
i can’t hit the like button as often as i would! amazing snippets from your podcast!
Super interesting. Thanks!
An IGUS is an information gathering and utilising system. In sort of thermodynamic terms, the ascent happens when the amount of information you've taken from the problem outweighs what you need to be able to climb it. The grade really refers to the difficulty of engaging with the problem sufficiently, to be able to extract the amount of information you need 😉👍
Well how about Terranova?
The question I really would like to know the answer to is has anyone heard anything from Nalle? Has he commented on Will's ascent?
Lmao I have recently seem Nalle liking climbing posts on IG but nothing about Will’s ascent of Burden 😂
Good question. I was wondering that.
Ya...I mean, being over social media n sponsors is fine/one thing but it's a little weird something he gave soo much effort into, you'd think he's surface for some input with all the attention it's now had. Then again, if it's behind him and a closed chapter than fair enough I guess. But still a little weird. lol
He doesn't owe us anything. Maybe he just wants to sit back and watch the hype a little.
how can i watch the full thing with video
So it took more than double of sessions than Alphane but still only 9A 😂
And it's less than half the moves so in theory finding the beta should take less time?
Will said that Alphane was really nice on the skin so the sessions were really long. Burden meanwhile is the opposite
Climbing is the ultimate puzzle, in that there’s no exact science to grades. What feels easy to a tall climber can feel crazy hard to a short climber and vice versa. There’s also the aspect of conditioning and the fact that you simply feel stronger some days and on those days climbs will naturally feel easier. I’m a proponent of adopting a system whereby you’d have to climb a climb at least twice before recommending a grade. I feel like that would give you more of an objective idea to it’s grade rather than one ascent (maybe you just felt really good that day). It would also help to eliminate the aspect of potential “luck”. And not saying that anyone gets lucky but at least if you climb a climb twice there isn’t the potential for anyone to think that luck was a factor. But I dunno, there is so much nuance involved in establishing grades in climbing and it’s honestly very very frustrating even at a much much lower level than the elite climbers. And I say that because you shouldn’t have a system in place whereby you go to one area (whether it be gym or crag) and there is sooooo much variation in grades compared to other areas. And I realize that that is how it’s always been, but does it mean that it should stay that way? At some point couldn’t uniformity be introduced to the sport? Again, I dunno….just a novice moderately descent climbers opinion. And I know that grading is supposed to be done collectively and everyone is supposed to give an opinion but I still maintain that if there was a more objective way of grading that was uniform the world over, that that would ultimately be better for the sport.
Too many variables to have uniformity. Consistency in an area is more important than trying to get worldwide uniformity. And who would be in the crew going everywhere to regrade everything if needed.
A decade or more ago there was a boulder problem that one of the Lowell brothers of Sender Films did in Switzerland that Sharma; Graham; Nicole; etc... could not do: was it the hardest problem in the world at the time? And was he the best boukderer?
What is important is what you can do; and what you can improve on.
@@craigbritton1089 that’s your opinion. Everyone’s opinion matters
Where is the video of bod send
I shake a bit so I hit the dislike button first before rectifying. It wrote it shared my opinion with the creator!
Just letting you know I thoroughly enjoy your content and listen to it religiously! It was a fluke, I promise! 🙂
As for the video, one can only hope Will thinks about going to the US for ROTS and Megatron. Stopping by France and Soudain Seul.
We need someone to qualify a definitive, objective, perfect V17/9As ordered list for us armchair boulderers!
Jokes aside, I am happy to see our prophecy fulfilled and Will showing he might well be the best all-around climber there is on this blue planet as of now. Climb on, Mr.Bosi!
ROTS?
@@Miles26545 Return of the Sleepwalker, V17, FA Daniel Woods. Extension to his Sleepwalker, v16, a well known boulder.
ruclips.net/video/IoEeHwd5GTs/видео.html&pp=ygUjcmV0dXJuIG9mIHRoZSBzbGVlcHdhbGtlciBkb3duZ3JhZGU%3D
Any word on when Will will release the BOD ascent video?
I read on Instagram that maybe in one month.
@@3diabolos 😵😵😵 so long 😂
@@sirsendalot indeed !!!
Spoke to Will in person. He think sometime in June.
@@carlbarenbrug 😱...
Two times the number of sessions could be the next grade, if it was like that averaged over a few more climbers.
So will sent alphane first? He said “the day I sent it and then Shawn a day or two later…”….or did I not hear him right?
"the day I came and sent it, which was only like a day or two later"
Sounds like Will Bosi is at place where if he does what Nalle did and spends 4 years on a problem he could probably establish a 9B / V19
agreed
Good interview! How tall is Will? He said that taller people maybe struggle more in bod.
I thought he was saying tall people would struggle more on Alphane.
@@jakobjas4212 both
@@Andy-fd7zhk. But ,about my question, how tall is will? And the other guy you said?
@@Andy-fd7zh thank you. I thought he was taller. Like 6
no he said taller people may struggle more on alphane, not bod@@3diabolos
"it's such a technical boulder" ....meanwhile the boulder is like "bro all I do is constantly stay in one space I'm super basic" ...lol 😂
If Alphane had been established before burden and accepted as a 9A, would burden then have been accepted as possibly 9A+?
Return of the sleepwalker next...
Probably Megatron next.
i knew it fingerboarding is overrated thx will
He didn't say that lol
@@Porklion source: it came to him in a dream
@@kooljawss wut
I think Will Bosi w beard could flash 9A
so what im hearing is honey badger should be 9a...
When mellow crew says it's 9A it's 9A
Exactly
I love how a bunch of arm chair quarterbacks came out saying Alphane is not 9A after Aiden and Will sent. These are the people who specifically have never even seen the climb let alone touched holds, and couldn’t do a single move, but they feel qualified to express their opinion.
the question is: why is william blue balling everyone and not showing the actual send footage?
It will be released when he retires.
@@jakobjas4212 so in like 20 years
five ten might have better say on that
@@songxu5286 that must be it. Will sent it in Solutions and Adidas are busy photoshopping in 5.10s to every frame of the video
I liked Shawn’s approach to revealing Megatron where he didn’t announce the send until the video was up, that way these kind of comments thirsting for videos didn’t exist.