Silence vs Burden of Dreams
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- Despite they are two completely different things, I tried to compared Silence (the first 9c of the world) and Burden of Dreams (the first 9A boulder of the world). In my recent trip in May I tried both of them (without succeeding) and I found some similarities and a lot of differences.
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![Trying World's Hardest Boulder, V17 [Ft. Exclusive Will Bosi Post Send]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/y1d2TuekkZ8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Trying World's Hardest Boulder, V17 [Ft. Exclusive Will Bosi Post Send]](/img/tr.png)
This video really shows his versatility as one of the best climbers in the world. Few can claim to be this close and both of the hardest climbs in the world. I sense sends coming soon
Do you think Will Bosi could send Silence?
@@paulisacrazyfreak101no
He will send burden of dreams... Silence Im not sure the way he climbed the first crux is so powerful I think it will take too much out of him to complete the rest
@@jamescunningham9277 he already sent burden of dreams
@@jamescunningham9277 *he sent
This is such an interesting idea, will be really interesting to see how this concept of doing both hardest boulder and sport route progresses as the Olympics keep establishing the combined format.
Outdoor bouldering is essentially the same as outdoor sport climbing just for one you need more power, the other more endurance but the whole movement is the same. Indoor comp bouldering now a days focuses on parcour style dynamic movements, that you will never encounter outdoors (yes there are still some old school type boulders in comp but if you cant do the new school stuff as well, you wont be anywhere close to the podium)
I'd say any good outdoor boulderer would make a good outdoor lead climber and vice versa if they had the motivation and time to do so.
Amazing to put this much time into both projects… limit bouldering/climbing seems incredibly stressful especially when you’ve let the entire internet know you’re trying these routes. Definitely inspiring for people who are stuck climbing in every grade below these climbs
I’d be soooo scared of injuries. Both projects put a ton of load on the body, and not in a nice and easy to control way.
Love your honesty! That really showcases how climbers really think and most of them don‘t care about their ego and stuff like that
Most pro* climbers, I'd argue. Your typical commercial gym climber nowadays definitely carries a massive ego.
@@eurekaflows 👍
@@eurekaflowshell yeah I do!
(This is a problem )
I think you’ll send both very soon. But we’re are here cheering and following your progress no matter how long it takes.
I love this honest opinion, we definitely need more of this in the climbing community!
I wasn’t sure if such a comparison made sense but I really liked the approach of the comparison and as always a really good video
An interesting similarity is that both of these climbs are on granite... most hard boulder problems have been climbed on sandstone or gneiss, while most hard routes are on limestone
I think the vast majority of hard boulders are on granite- thinking Colorado, Tahoe, Switzerland, etc.
Flatanger is gneiss
No, flatanger is granite. A quick internet search will tell you that.@@minime453
Most people think this but it's not true. Most hard boulders are on gneiss. A lot of the hard boulders in Colorado are on gneiss or sandstone (i.e. Creature from the Black Lagoon and Megatron respectively), and nearly all the hard boudlers in Switzerland are on gneiss (i.e. Alphane, Off the Wagon, Roadkill, and many more)@@sandstone.addict
Gneiss is neiss
I really want to see Matilda Söderlund try Burden! It is of course above her current level, but I'd say it's right up her alley in style, all about crimping and body tension. Sweden isn't far from Finland either, so no excuse not to pop over for a visit 😁
absolutely, or at least the replica!
This is the best climbing content…. Actually just the best content on RUclips. Bravo stefano
I would love to see Janja try both-- and of course I'll keep cheering for you, Stefano!
I wouldn’t bet on Janja trying these in the next 4-6 years. She’s focused on being the GOAT of competition climbing. And outdoors her best red points are 5.14d and V14. That’s light years from Silence and BOD.
@@jonathanrossddsmhs1271I agree, but it's also true that she has onsighted 14b. Probably could do low-mid 5.15 if she cared to.
@@jonathanrossddsmhs1271 Well she was projecting La Dura Dura some time ago, so you never know.
@@jonathanrossddsmhs1271
Iirc Stefano's top boulder grade is also V14.
Yet he has done all the moves on BoD.
I wouldn't judge too hastily.
People kept saying comp bouldering didn't apply to the "real" stuff until Tomoa went outside and flashed V14.
Janja just has an exceptional mindset. If she wanted to climb hard outside it would come pretty quickly, imho.
@@ArchibaldVonSkip until someone comes along and proves this next statement wrong, it’s a fact: top level competition climbing comes at the expense of outdoor climbing and top level outdoor climbing comes at the expense of competition climbing. When Stefano is climbing his best outdoors, he isn’t training for comps. Will and Aidan and Daniel have all done their best bouldering after their comp careers. My post doesn’t say Janja isn’t capable of outdoor records, but that for now she is laser focused on the Olympics and competition climbing.
Adam is a great boulderer too. I would like to see him try Burden!
of course, but Stefano did not say that Adam does not climb boulders well in general, but that this specific boulder does not suit him stylistically, but that he would probably climb it
Adam's fingers wouldn't fit lol
Adam flashed Jade, another test piece on granite, m.ruclips.net/video/6Ghu8PigrTI/видео.html
For sure he knows how to pull on minuscule granite crimps
@@the_zenclimber and Goia in less than half the time of Nalle.
Starting "where is Nalle" flash mob
"Hardest sport route"
Everyone ignoring Seb's 200 day siege of DNA
Movie isn't out yet. Silence was climbed 6 years ago.
Seems quite normal to me.
Route of simular grade can have different styles. DNA is more power endurance while Silence is very cruxy with good rests. The crux move on DNA was mastered reasonably quick, but to link it all was the hardest part.
Also, Silence can be “hard 9c” and DNA “normal 9c”
@@ArchibaldVonSkip Which movie? DNA footage was released in last year's Reelrock if you missed it 😉 P.S. it looks totally desperate.
@@M0dElite I did, indeed, miss it
I was under the impression a short feature was due last spring but was delayed to late summer.
Thanks a bunch!
Very thanks for this special inside! Its super inspiring also for my own goals! 🙂
All hail Adam, the best climber who ever lived ! Great vidéo, as always 😊 thanks !
I really like that you are trying both!
Been waiting for this one. Keep it up 🔥
I don't think we'll see Ondra trying Burden of Dreams. Ondra wants to get into the Olympics, so I doubt he will focus on something else. And eventually his main focus will be Project Big. Bosi's next project is Excalibur, I don't think we'll see him any soon on Silence. Eventually Seb Bouin will climb Silence, making him the first person to climb two 9c. I think the two most suitable candidates for Silence are you and Seb. Burden of Dreams might be repeated by a boulderer, like Aidan Roberts or Shawn Raboutou. You might be the first person to climb both Burden and Silence, but I would like to see you climb first Silence, because, after all, Burden has been already repeated, and it's just a few moves. A good video on Silence would be epic.
Two 9c ? WHICH is the 2nd?
@@stephenr80 DNA at Verdon Gorge...
@@stephenr80 It is called DNA. Search for DNA Bouin.
@@stephenr80DNA is a soft 9c from what i can tell so there’s a chance of downgrade
Edit: i was talking out my ass
@@vybz987Seb climbed 3 9b+ since DNA and he didnt downgrade DNA, so either he is trying to get other climbers to try DNA or DNA is really a step above 9b+
Rad content. Watching one of the strongest climbers in the world work the hardest sequences in the world. Imagine watching footage of John Long being one of the first to send hard 5.12 and V8 with commentary.
not to take anything away from Burden of Dreams but seeing you trying them both, Silence looks just a level above it. You dont just have to unlock the crux, you have to get there in a good enough shape to do it, and get out of it in a good enough shape to finish Silence. It is just insane.
Something else I think is kind of interesting - they're both named after the experience the first ascentionist had while climbing them.
IDK man, if you watch Ondra's ascent, there's quite a bit of screaming lol.
@@Metzlii Listen to what he does _after_ he clips the chain. _That's_ what it's named for.
The right question is not which one is harder, the right question is which one you will send firstly! Ale Steee 💪🏻
Love the elevator music. 😂. Great breakdown. Keep having fun out there 😊
"Also write in the comments which one you think is harder", lmao you just said there are like four people in the world who can even consider it, why are you asking us mortals
V1 in my gym
I agree, where is Nalle?
Bosi got so much coverage after his send, I really wanted Nalle’s reaction. But where is Nalle!?
Right now he's at Traveler's Rest
Burden of Dreams is obviously harder. You can clearly see that Silence has bolts and Burden of Dreams does not, showing how the rock is so much harder they cannot even bolt it.
Ha ha
😅
I don't agree. If Burden is only 3m tall, why don't they just dyno to the top from the first move?
I also don't agree with this. They didn't bolt burden of dreams because it's a boulder, and you typically don't bolt boulders. Except for the bolt that Will put to practice the first move. Also does anybody know who set Burden for Nalle?
@@joebobwashington I think was GOD
I keep wondering about the boulder grade for crux 1 of Silence. But I guess Stefano hasn't sent it yet, nor any V15 boulders, so its too soon for him to weigh in on that. Very interesting that he's spent something like 1.5 months on Silence over multiple trips and still no closer to crux 1 than he is on BOD after 1 short trip.
Iirc Ste said first crux felt harder for him and second crux a good easier than what Adam felt.
Adam
1-V14+
2-V12/13
Ste
1-V15/16
2- V11+
Correct me if someone remembers it more accurately.
Adam called crux1 v15 but he also said it was one of the hardest boulders he has ever done
I was recently just wondering how crazy it would be for Bosi or someone to do both and solidify legendary status in a shortest time. Kinda insane to see, these guys are trying to actually do it
Burden of Dreams seems to remind me more of the climbing on Excalibur. What do you think? Maybe a talk about Excalibur and how it compares to Burden and Silence?
i spent the whole video staring at those massive veins... they are incredible, such as stef
Woooo yeahhhh Stefan video
Great insights! Also, props to the editor!
Well explained, thank you!
imagine sending burden and silence in the same year
not gonna happen, Silence send will be next year for sure.
"Where is Nalle? I'm not sure" 😂😂😂
Grande Stefano sei troppo forte!!!!
Burden now at 4 repeats. Based on that info alone, clearly Silence is harder. Though it could also be an issue of access and climbing season. Getting to Flatanger is no small feat in itself, its really way out there, whereas Burden is a lot more accessible.
love this. thank you
Aguante Stefano !!! Abrazo desde Chile !!
I’ll be psyched if Adam climbs burden of dreams
The route is longer !! ah ah ah ah
I just hope Stefano could find and do a first ascent of a 9b/9b+ route of his own in the near future
I can see how Burden of dreams is possible if you're just strong enough, but I can't understand how is it possible to climb the crux of silence AFTER you have climbed an 8b route, even if there's a no hands kneebar rest below it. It just seems so improbable that you can go through all that without making mistakes. And then there are two more cruxes to come 😅
"The question is where is Nalle?" 🤣
Nalle Is in Rocklands enjoying his life without socials
I want to see you taking Adam to checkout Burden with you or Will to Silence, would be really cool. But I guess Adam and Jakob are now focused on olympics and project big now, so I guess all of you will have to go to the cave.
I miss Nalle.
Burden is a 9A and Silence is a 9C. Yes they are completely different but I always thought it made sense that the hardest boulder (short route) is 2 grades below the hardest sport climb (long route).
It's not the same scale. It can be confusing because it uses similar numbers and letters and both are French systems, one being the Fontainebleau grading scale, the other being the French grading scale. (although, in a lot of cases route grading uses the minuscule letter, so 9c and not 9C to distinguish the two scales). So you can't really compare the 9A boulder to a 9c route. In some guidebooks it's also detailed the max boulder grade, the grade for endurance, the grade for exposure on the route (and in the case of silence it would be 8B boulder I suppose?).
@@aracanthe7251 Wow I was completely unaware of this. I always assumed they were using the same French scale for both. Thank you.
@@aracanthe7251 the first boulder is something in between V15-V16 and the second V14-15. The route is possible because of the rests that link the boulders after the 9a intro
@@zachd1404 Burden is 9A (capital A in bouldering grades) and Silence is 9c (small c in route grades).
They both look ridiculously hard. That said, Silence looks like it is much more physically demanding and over a longer period of time.
You'll just have to do both and definitively let the world know which is harder :)
WHERE IS NALLE
Do you think Shawn could climb Silence? Shawn looks like he has a lot of endurance considering Alphane and so!
Great video per usual Stefano!
I do not think so. Also I doubt he will even try. I think Shawn might be the next to climb Burden of Dreams.
@@biomorphicI'm pretty sure Shawn already climbed burden but is waiting for the video to release before announcing it. Also Shawn is a beast but silence is like 4 5.14s stacked on top of each other.
Probably. Given how """easy""" the start of the route is, and how good the rests are before the crux, it seems much more suited to boulderers than most sport routes. Not sure if his reach would be an issue though.
Shawn also worked La Rage d'Adam fairly recently so he may be looking at other sport routes.
lol
Simon lorenzi is going to try burden soon. I think Hé will be the next one to climb it
What about Alex Megos? Do you think he'd have a chance on both? I guess he doesn't focus too much on bouldering..?
Bouldering as you said and he said himself that silence is totaly his antistyle...
stefano is my fav climber
I discovered only after moving to Sweden that Finland is actually not part of Scandinavia 👀
what a nice video :)
Out of all the people you mentioned my money is on you! I think you have what it takes to do them both.
Answer Is simple BoD already repeated, AND Silence Remainds unreapeted, sorry for my bad english 😅
Ma Burden of dreams nel senso di “Un bel carico di sogni” o “il fardello-il peso di sogni”?
La seconda, secondo me. Burden implica sempre peso o fatica, a quel che ne so. Vediamo se risponde qualche madrelingua.
@@silviobellettiyeah it means burden as in difficulty of the weight of your dreams
Nice, thanks!
Silence for sure
I think you'll definitely climb both!
not sure if it's a you thing or youtube, but the sound on this is so quiet it's inaudiable in places. sure it's great content, but unless you have headphones it's inaudible.
8:27 Hah! Guess i am better than you! Because i would fall there without even trying!
Those holds might need a wash 🧐
You explained why there much more climbers that did v16 than 9b+ or even 9b. Endurance..
Bouldering is a more accessible sport in general which also allows way more attempts per day/trip.
👍
I think silence is a more aesthic line. Other than the grade, there isn't much inspiring to me about burden. But that's an eye of the beholder thing.
I am trying to give this video two likes (one like for BOD and one for Silence), but I am failing...
I go for UTOPIA! No me rompi el cazzo! Jajaja Go for it Stephano!!!
Great video, but volume's super low.
Turn up your speakers bro
@@PIinianThe video's loudness has just been set too low, especially the speech.
Sure I could ramp my own volume up to 100, but it wont fix the problem with the video itself.
Can you imagine how irritating it would be to change your own volume all the time every time you watch a new video on RUclips, or some other platform?
Nalle cant climb silcence, because nobody knows where hes is lmao
the intro alone is pure climbing porn
I love the idea of there being a betting pool for who will send both first. I'm betting on Sorato haha. Or better yet, Janja!
I think the most important thing is WHERE IS NALLE?
But are they the hardest? There is dna proposed on 9c and more boulders of the same grade V17.
Hardest routes which actually got ascents
And I complain about my gyms setting being too hard 😮
Not caring about the level, I think that Silence is more my style but I'm way better in bouldering so for me it would be harder Silence. The problem that are both too hard for common mortal like me.
BoD has 2 ascents and Silence has 1. Mathematically, Silence is 2x harder.
audio is a little low :(
88.8k. nice
Cool clip - but talking about who can and can’t climb the climbs at the end, and who first? I lost all interest
I'd love to see Janja to flash both... That would be f****** epic!!! :-D
Anyway, great video Stefano!!! I must say you surprised me quite a lot when I noticed you are trying both! Such a bold decision and I believe you have the ability to do them both. :-)
No woman did 9b+ or V16 so I don't know where this comes from lol. You know it's impossible right
@@paulvolt2963 : You must be fun at parties. ;-) It was a joke and I even placed a smiley right behind the first sentence to clarify that for those who would not get it... ;-)
Where is Nalle?
In 20 more years, shoes will have rubber attachments and this will be a negative grade 😂 jk LoL
Ai Mori in silence
Anyone thinks Alex Megos is able to climb both?
He climbed v15 in 11 days and FA-ed a route bibliographie that was originally the same grade as silence before Stefano downgraded it. Given how "easy" Burden is and that Alex doesn't seem to have tried silence I don't think he is out of the running but maybe not motivated to send either. He seems like maybe one of the strongest climbers but the least willing to project routes 100+ times. I mean I start loosing my psyche after 5 tries even if I am making progress, can you even imagine trying something that many times and wondering if it's actually just impossible (for you or anyone) and just never sending?
@@dkaroun I think you could be right. He definitely could do it, if he wanted to. Maybe the Bibliography downgrading demotivated him a bit in going for a super hard project. Maybe Silence is also not so much his style?
It only makes sense that the sport route is harder, as a sport it has been practiced for a lot longer (relatively speaking)
John Gill was bouldering hard problems before anyone was bolting sport routes.
Mmm...smell of sending in the air...
Isn’t number of repeats synonymous with number of people who are actually trying to send it? I don’t understand why that’s attributed to difficulty? Silence looks hard AF but I’m sure that if it were more accessible then it would see repeats. Same with burden. And that’s not to say that either is easy but I think that to say that a climb is definitely harder because no one has repeated it is kinda silly, especially if the number of people who are trying to repeat it is really low. Kinda common sense that if only 5-10 people are trying to send it in 7 years then it stands a lesser chance of being sent than something like alphane which saw everyone and their mom trying to send it after Shawn. Just saying
If I went there to try it you can bet all your saving there wouldn't be a repeat
@@abelabel3664 I’m talking about people who realistically have a chance, not random people
@@stefslyfe I understand. I wouldn't say they are "synonymous". There may be a correlation there, but not one to one.
This is true, people just don't think about it that much. Sends / Attempts is what shows difficulty, not just sends.
@@La0bouchere true, but when attempts are low because the place is hard to get to and no one is even trying to send it then to say that it’s hard because it hasn’t been repeated doesn’t take into account why it hasn’t been repeated. And it’s not only because it’s hard but because the location means that not a lot of people are even trying and the fewer people try it the fewer chances there are of it being repeated
Empieza a ser un poco cansini que siempre estes hablando de lo mismo, a escalar my friend
Io mi concentrerei di più su gradi più umani invece di provare progetti così duri darò che anche in coppa del mondo sei andato male
😴
Ma Burden of dreams nel senso di “Un bel carico di sogni” o “il fardello-il peso di sogni”?
Fardello
@@gordoriccardo fardello, senza pietà, fardello