The world's hardest boulder was too hard, so we put it on a vertical wall
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2024
- Burden of dreams is considered one of the hardest boulder problems in the world, and the replica that resides in the @LatticeTraining HQ is supposedly even harder. In this episode I try it, only to realize it's far too hard at the 40 degree angle it's set at. Josh Hadley helps me out, and we re-set it on a vertical wall instead to see how hard it is there.
Timestamps:
0:00 Burden Of Dreams V17
1:20 Trying the hard replica
5:50 Moving the replica
6:40 The vertical replica
10:03 Vertical replica with bad feet
13:40 Doing a move on the hard version !
14:05 Kilterboard replica
Massive thanks to Lattice Training for letting me come play, and also shout out to Brett from Climbing nomads for filming.
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Heyo everybody! Hope you enjoyed this look at Burden Of Dreams on a vertical wall 🙂Make sure to subscribe to the Lattice channel to see me suffer later!
I'm quite interested to see how you did on the lattice test! This video really put BOD into perspective. There's just an entire world past my climbing.
@@tjackman #HumbleBrag
This made me realise how strong Pete was when he pulled on.
True. But looking at Pete's fat fingers, that doesn't surprise me
No joke, my jaw dropped at how solid he looked!
Don't get me wrong, I know he's sneakingly strong, but his performance was super impressive to me
@@schonni8390 small fingers allow better grip
Small fingers make small holds feel relatively better because a larger percentage of your finger pad is on them, but if larger fingers can access their full surface area (ie on a larger hold) then there will be more total friction, so wide fingers if you can fit all 4 will have better friction - it just won't feel as solid compared to even deeper holds
@@spokanespray I dont think that's correct. Friction does not depend on surface area, just normal force and the coefficient of friction. A larger surface area will distribute the force over a larger area, decreasing the pressure on the fingers. This is in an ideal situation with two rigid bodies, and may not be 100% accurate in practice with fingers which deform when a force is applied. But I think the lower pressure would be perceived as easier.
A V2 SORRY WHAT
It would be cool to put burden on an adjustable wall from like -10 to 45 degrees and get a consensus grade for every single angle. Then you could sort of "define" each grade on the V scale from 0 to 17 by how hard a specific angle of Burden of Dreams is. Obviously grades are way too subjective to actually try and use something like that as a definition but it would at least be interesting to see, especially the graph of V grade vs angle to see what sort of shape the V scale takes.
Or maybe people have already done this with existing climbs on the moonboard/kilterboard, if so please drop a link to the results.
That would give us the B- grade 😊
They do this on the kilterboard but a lot of people don’t grade correctly according the angles.
Yokoyama sofya has a nice example video where she does a kilterboard problem on every angle.
@@karlderdelinckx hahaha yea if they did this on the Kilter Board it would be graded v10 at 30, v19 at 40, and v8 at 45
That would be epic. Super cool idea honestly. Especially for the epic name that the hardest current boulder has.
I think Magnus did a video like this
> "It's so technical"
> Grades the boulder V2
really interesting concept, overhangs are my nemesis... but be a bit more fair - if you're a strong climber and panting after a 3-move route then it's not a v2 🤣🤣
Most likely outdoor V2 then
Ain't now way the vertical is a v2. Emil was literally panting and struggling, seems like at least v4.
probably american v2
def not a v2 in my gym@@toxic_narcissist
@@toxic_narcissistare American grades harsher?
@@Gadgetmawombo maybe but definitely not that much harsher. I don't there's any gym where that's a v2.
@@Gadgetmawombo I think when you're at their level a V2 can just feel similar to a V4, in the same way I don't feel a difference between a VB and a V1. it's like that with lower grades as you progress.
This was fucking insane to watch. It really puts into perspective just how strong all the climbers who have done/almost done burden are. Like the fact that they can’t even hold onto the holds from a static position is mind boggling, and they themselves are incredibly strong. This is just fucking ridiculous
It‘s crazy how much strength a v17 recquiers. And I have to say that I was blown away by Pete‘s performance on this boulder in his last video. Anyway great work on that one. Setting the vertical version of Burden with those small footholds was really making the difference. I would love to play around with those 3d printed replica holds as well.
Genuinely think Pete needs to actually put in a few sessions and see what happens. He made basically as much progress in his first session as other mega wads. Plus he's out in Norway or in Sheffield quite a bit it seems. Although if he did it, he wouldn't be able to remain a dark horse crusher- which is maybe his whole modus. The internet would then demand he go and proj Silence...
What video
it would be interesting to see how your progress looks like by trying different angles up to the original
yeah, why not add 5% until you can't do it anymore.
Yeah, throw it on a kilter/moon/whatever adjustable angle and just keep cranking it back.
@@donovandownes5064 I feel like even adding 1% for a boulder like this would be a jump
Super cool to see this collab, Emil! Love it whenever climbing RUclipsrs get together! And I definitely think the vertical one with bad feet looks more interesting.
"Will bosi ~ pretty ok rock climber" lol
Long time lurker, this was an awesome idea. Thank you for the content. Enjoyed every minute of it.
This is a great concept, I'm excited to watch it!
Literally yesterday at the gym I was joking to my buddy that they should set a vertical replica of Burden of Dreams. Awesome to see it!
Loved putting this on a vert wall, what a cool idea. I wish you tried it with exact Burden beta the way Will did it - especially placing the right foot way out right before moving up to the second to last “jug”. Amazing stuff either way!!!
Great video Emil! I'm at most a 6B+/6C climber and wish I could have a go at the vertical version haha :D
Looking forward to your next one!
Watching someone insane I respect and admire as much as Emil try the replica and struggle with it really put into perspective just how fucking crazy this boulder is and how insane Will and Aiden's first attempts were
I absolutely hate bad footholds, but i take them all day over boulder problems with little to no footholds at all so i guess the vertical one doesn't look THAT bad even for a newbie like me. Nice video :)
Such a fire video!!
Crazy how good that v12 climber on josh's channel did, just shows how style - dependant grades are. Like obviously he couldnt do it either, but seemed way more comfortable in the positions
Agreed!
@@EmilAbrahamsson I am that climber and I’m amazed too frankly. Full disclosure, I’ve never actually tried anything harder than V12. I never boulder, only routes. But I did try Emil’s off the wagon replica on the kilterboard and was utterly useless…
Seems I’m ok at one thing. Big moves off small holds 😂
Cool vid Emil. Loved the concept!
this was so rad! bosi's entire method of training for this boulder was so interesting and it seems like one of the only cases where you might be able to apply this type of technology for training. just goes to show how much training for hard climbing had changed in the last decade alone, and how much the boundaries can be pushed in the future. (p.s.-- i'd kill to hop on the "burdenless dream" on slab, seems so cool!)
I don't see enough people making this point. Burden lends itself to replicas in a way that, say, Megatron just doesn't.
Would have loved to see it at 10-20 degrees! Very interesting how much it changes.
Emil! I’d love a follow up video on your thoughts about the lattice training test! You are so good about being transparent about what progress really looks like, how up and down it can be, and how real the mental battle can be! Would love to hear your thoughts, what you’ll work on, what you’re psyched about bc of it!
Ah cheers mate that's a great idea :-) I'll put it on my to-do list!
I was hoping to see something like they play with angles and see how much of an angle they can do. I would really like to see them try it at a 10 or 20 degree angle
The version with bad footholds seems like good fun and good training :)
Fascinating stuff
Agree with everyone else, having this on an adjustable wall would super fun. Would be crazy to try 5° increments and see just how much it changes. I guess I could try this with an adjustable Moonboard and a random problem too
Sick, super fun setup. :D Little heads up that the foot for the first move is not the one straight underneath but all the way left. And if I remember correctly on move 4 a drop knee is not useable on the real thing
great video!
Thanks friend!
I've been climbing for almost twenty years. Still not my main sport, but something I do weekly. I'm a fairly solid F7 climber. I went to check out Burden when I was out and about around there. I could not even hang from any hold on that rock. It's so brutal, videos don't do it justice.
To me, it looks harder than v2. V3 or v4 maybe. Tbe big moves with the crimps make it seem harder, but id have to climb it in order to say exactly how difficult i think it is.
Really cool video!! 😀😀😀
The first left foot old is wrong, you should use the one on the left. Great video by the way !
Best vid you've put out IMO. Good content
The vertical version looks super fun!
the harder version of the easy version looked amazing. Definitely retained the "feel" of the real thing a lot better. Very fascinating. Question: do you think training a replica on a lightly less steep angle, but with worse feet could be an effective way to train for the real boulder. So maybe not as extreme as this putting it on a vertical wall. But just decreasing the angle 15 degrees, switch out the feet for slightly worse ones. That way you retain the body tension feel of the boulder and can just work up to the full angle as your body learns the moves.
After seeing eddie hall do a V2, there's no way that boulder is a V2 lol
I think they're giving it an outdoor grade of V2. Indoor grades are all over the place and are typically easier than outdoor especially at v0-v4
Cool idea with this video
Cool idea
Fascinating how footholds make such a difference!
@Emil so if this was put on an adjustable and you trained all the degrees from 0 - 60, do you think burden is possible in 1 year? (for you personally that is).
Truthfully I would give myself an incredibly low chance at becoming strong enough for Burden, even in several years. The style is what I'd call my anti-style, so I don't think my body could adapt in just a years time for such a hard, specific problem. I'd be very psyched though, would love to try it on various angles and see how much I could progress. I think I could do it at 30 in not too long, but once it gets to around 40 I just wouldn't know how to move anymore :P
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks for the insight. It's amazing to see how much anti-styles effect climbers even more at the higher grades. 🤯
@@CorneKooyman I think the style is less important. More important is the fact that Emil has done 1 V15. The gap between V15 and V17 is ENORMOUS, and much larger than is possible to bridge in one year.
I like the harder vertical replica, it looks like something I could try and have a feeling similar to the original boulder (of course, rescaled to my climbing level...)
It's the same thought I had when I visited the original. The handholds are actually pretty okay. It's just the extreme angle that makes it almost impossible.
Would be a v4 in my gym. At this point. Put it on a wall that changes angle and do it at every angle
they should probably rename it to burden of content cause god damn what hasnt been done with those holds by now
So far the idea to put them on an adjustable board remains, and also don't worry Stefano is back in Finland trying it right now, and I wouldn't be surprised to see Will try to send the replica also. So much left to do still...
Also it's a tad ironic considering Nalle has expressed he doesn't like social media so much
Not only climbing angle changed, the holds angle is also changed. Maybe 3D print 40deg spacers and put between wall and the holds. That would only change climbing angle, but the difficulty of the holds should remain the same.
Started climbing for the first time yesterday and I remember seeing a burden of dreams replica on one of the walls and laughed
My friend who came with me asked if we should try it and I said "that's the hardest boulder in the world pal" and he just walked off lmao
We have the same replica at my gym in gothenburg and you don't get a good feel for how hard it is and how strong they are. we have it on a 20 degrees wall and it's like the wall is telling you NO go home, the real on is 40 degrees! OMG
It needs to go on an adjustable wall and then train on it 3 times a week adding 1 degree angle a week for 40 weeks, surely this would be the ultimate Burden cheat sheet?
I can't tell you how many times I've thought about thus
Good video but that really does not look like a V2. Shows how difficult it is for high grade climbers to grade low grades. They have really good finger strength and strength to weight ratio and were trying the overhanging version shortly before. Still looked like they were putting in good effort to do it. I think they have limited idea what it’s like for lower grade climbers to climb that.
I think lower grades have an absolutely massive discrepancy (as do higher grades). We were both comparing this to Fontainebleau which serves a large amount of vertical climbs, and there I'd say V2 is probably quite spot on. However, close to Sweden there's an island called Åland with pretty generous vertical grades, and there it'd be more like V4 I believe. It always depends on what you're comparing to I think.
That being said, you might be right anyway, hard for me to say :P
@@EmilAbrahamsson font grading is a known meme though
@@heeroyui9439 Font is right, all the other places are soft 😉
Yee, I compleatly agree, I wold guess it's probably between a difficult V3 and a easy V5. No way that's a V2/5+
@@nielswalinga5804difficulty ratings arent existing to flex. They should give people on different skill levels an idea if they can attempt it. If you just be like "nah thats so easy man because I climb 10 years, everythings V0 now" you make grades completely pointless.
5:09 that was a fart...goes to show how difficult it is
Emil falling off the replica really shows how hard the moves are but also how strong some of the other climbers are far even doing 1 of the moves 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼respect for everyone
Interesting how much of a difference the gradient makes, At my local gym the moonboard is at 45 degrees rather than the normal 40 but have no idea how much of a difference this actually makes
This was interesting.
Looks like you didn't set the right left foot starting hold. The original one is higher up and more on the left.
I live how it says will bosi pretty ok climber 😂😂😂
It would be cool to try like 7a graded replica of burden on kilter board, some of us don't climb 8a lol
I'm expecting within six months gyms will be able to buy copies of the burden holds, and we'll see variations popping up in gyms everywhere. Burden of slab, burden rotated thirty degrees to the right.
The vertical version should be called “ Burden of Memes”. It’s like the fun, less intense cousin.
V2 in wat gym ?…jeez sandbagging like crazy
Outdoors! In the UK or font we compared it to
I'd take a whole series of you walking up and trying the v16s and v17s and just repeatedly saying "that's so hard" and telling us how shit the holds are!. What a great watch!
It would be interesting to increase it by 5 degree increments and see how the grading/difficulty goes up :)
Seeing Emil get pummeled like this on a boulder feels just wrong. Like there should be no boulder that someone this strong gets this destroyed on. The potential of this sport is truly endless
First person to flash Burden waaaaht?!! 😂😂
Great video! Do you know if Lattice has the plan to take it down? Would be very cool to try it when I come over to their HQ! Of course the vertical hard version ;)
It's back on the overhang now, we re-set it. It's a bit of a shame though, seems like a lot of people wanted to try this afterwards
The company that printed the holds should re-use their scans and sell the set online, this video shows how versatile the holds are. I think a lot of climbing gyms could make use of them, not just as a training tool for the top 0.0001% of climbers, but just as interesting holds to create a variety of problems with, and set replicas on varying grades.
we have to call this vertical dreams
Maybe my gym needs to re-evaluate what a V2 is.
It would be interesting, if you guys could drop it incrementally 5 degrees at a time all the way to 40. I wonder what it feels like at 20 or even 10 degrees.
Thats still not a V2. V4 maybe.
The holds are too small for V2
As a Finn I'm debating with myself if I should go and try the real boulder. First as it is and then jack it up to vertical to make it a bit easier 🤔
Heyyy I know you’re supper strong and everything but I can’t climb 7C+ yet 😩 Haha but I’d love to try the Burden at home on the kilter board! Could you make one for us mortals? Maybe v5/v7 range? 🙏🏽 awesome vid btw 🔥🔥🔥
I'll look into it on my next session :) I'd be happy to add one more. Try it on 20-30 degrees though, could be around V7-8 there?
And maybe a v9
You think it would be a good exercise to gradually increase the gradient by 5 degrees and increase when you feel comfortable with the current gradient and eventually work towards that 45 degrees?
Definitly not a V2 you guys are to good 😅😂
Be really interesting to see it done on a movable training wall.. 0-45degrees
Going off of Pete’s vid, I thought the low foot was off?
Put it on a hydraulic wall and lower it one degree every day.
Next step is put that thing on a roof 😂🤯
Is the KB rep posted? It said not found even though it comes up in the search.
I think the actual is harder cuz it’s on 50* but the last move is apparently harder
This isnt a v2 sorry but great video!!
I would like to see Hoseok Lee on this.
My fellow chess enthusiasts will know that Will Bosi is decent.
Is the burden of dreams set available to buy ? Id love to have a go
Now you just have to put it on an adjustable angle wall and build your way up to 40 degrees overhang. 😂
Well, now you only have to topple the real Burden of Dreams over, then you can also flash it :D
why are you both using that low left foot for the start?
Shows the importance of feet
I climbed several years in Montserrat. 7as max grade and the only difference in many of its slabby lines, its the inclination because many are very similar. Just some degrees can turn a 5a into 7a, easily. So nothing new. Inclined walls are the separation from ok climbers to serious climbers
"Mild Concern of Ideas"
Wish u tried on 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 etc degrees to see where your limit was :)
Burden of Ease
I was at Burden of Dreams last Saturday and was surprised how good the holds are! I said it would be 6B/V4 on a vertical wall. I wasn’t that far off. Just the angle is crazy and makes it so hard.
I have a home moonboard set closer to 45 degrees to fit in my garage, some problems feel absolutely desperate for the grade. I wonder how much the difficulty would change at each angle, would the difference between 35 and 40 be much bigger than the difference between 15 and 20. What about if it was angled in on a slab.
Definitely curious myself
Which moonboard? And how much did it all cost?
@CeNoTiX Gaming, I got the 2016 set because it was the cheapest, and I can buy more holds to change it in the future. For the holds, bolts, and T-nuts from Moon, it was £908 plus £67.5 shipping to Ontario, Canada. The framing used seven 2"x6"x12' boards, some 2x4s for blocking and the kicker, then 3/4" sheets of ply, and a coat of paint. I already had the plywood, screws, and paint. I also got double the number of T-nuts and skipped the lighting system. In total, I spent approximately $2000 Canadian after tax.
A gym membership is $850 a year here, and I am only starting to go again now. So it's mostly paid for itself in saved gym memberships. But I have noticed my climbing is very weak in the gym style now. I used to be V7 in the gym and V5 on the Moonboard, now I can do some V7s on the Moonboard and V5s in the gym 😅. I also didn't get the board until Summer 2022, so I didn't get to climb for 2.5 years...
Got a kilterboard at 35° and one at 40° in nearby gyms, the difference is astronomical, moves on the 35er feel a lot easier
V7 on the MB is nails 💪💪 mine is 45 due to height restrictions was thinking of swoping holds for the grasshopper set for a better range esp in easier grades. No GH boards in the Uk to test though 😢
Lol there’s a Burden at Home on kilter board😂
Pleas throw it on a board that can change degrees and see how far you can get leaning it back
Is there a lattice assessment coming? :)
Check out the lattice channel! They just posted it :-)
@@EmilAbrahamsson yeah I saw it right after I posted the comment. Unexpected results! Did you do the replica before or after the test?
I wonder how hard it would be if you kept the actual angle of the holds, bur put it on a 0 degree wall. Like slopey 15mm holds but flat wall
I don't think that's a v2 but I'm still quite new
I think at least as pete described it you are not actually starting on the right foothold in the beginning. it made the first move way harder for him in that video
Hard to grade from a video, but from a beginner/intermediate the first looks more like a v3 than a v2 and the second v6. But that's just an impression.
Somewhere around there! Could be V3, but the footholds were actually a lot better in the first version than you might think
That’s what we thought too, you guys are so strong that it “feels like a V2” but meanwhile us V2 climbers looking at that climb 😳