Brilliant video mate. I’ve been away from film for a long time, shot digital since around 2000 and not really used a meter since then, so this is a great refresher. As a coincidence I’ve got the same 2 meters you use, had the L358 used in this video for a while and just picked up a Soligor like you use in your zone system video, largely because I like how simple it is, no bells and whistles :)
Thank you for this wonderful video. I bought the same meter after seeing this video and was curious how you set your dip switches inside? Enjoy your content especially different film stocks under a variety of conditions!
This is what I've been needing since I'm getting into portraiture more. I saw you used the iPhone app, how accurate is it when metering for the shadows?
Great video! I understood why you metered for shadows etc but, at the start you said you set ISO TO 640 for 800 box speed film. Did you just meter with handheld meter and phone app as if you were shooting 800 ISO? And let your exposures be what you metered to? (Hope that makes sense, no adjustment made for ISO 640 then and develop at box speed, correct?)
Since the phone is a reflective meter, how would I expose for the shadows on the model? I'm trying to figure out how I can use my phone as a light meter when I'm not shooting backlit (e.g. a studio shoot), would I also have to walk up to the person or can I stand where I will stand when taking the photo?
Thanks for showing an app version of a light meter! As a beginner, I feel like a physical light meter is too big of an investment for me! Great video ✨
I have a question! Say it’s some real harsh sunlight and I’m using the sunny 16 rule. If I already have my shutter speed and iso set and I meter for the shadows, am I changing shutter speed, apereture and iso for the correct exposure or am I only changing one value?
You’ll only be changing the aperture, but if you want more depth of field by using a lower aperture go up 1 to 2 stops on the shutter speed so example you’re shooting portra 400 you’d set Shutter speed at 1/500 or (whatever your camera has closet to it ) then use the range of F5.6-f16 but if you want to get more focused on the model and get bokeh push the shutter speed by 1 stop so 1/1000 then lower the aperture down to a suitable f stop. Hopes this helps.. I’ve learned trail and error on my Pentax 6x7 and studying (writing down my setting each shot)
When shooting backlit, wondering if you can get close with your cameras internal lightmeter to the subjects shaded area and measure exposure that way.. then set the exposure manually.. back up and compose your shot.
I’ve done that before too 😬 Lately I haven’t been advancing the film right after pressing the shutter, not sure if that’ll affect the film at all in a negative way, but it keeps me from accidentally tripping the shutter.
@6:00 - *Wait, what?!* How does rule of reciprocity comes into daylight photography? I thought it only relates to long exposures at night. I'm confused...
Hmm he said that with the lightmeter you can dial up the aperture and it will show up the shutter speed you have to be for the correct exposure, he started with 1000 shutter 2.8 aperture then he wanted more focus in the shot so he went to 5.6 which is 2 stops from 2.8 and if you count 2 stops 1000 shutter is 250 so that's what the meter showed , basically he said in convoluted way that the lightmeter does it's job :D
Rule of reciprocity is the exposure triangle. What you're referring to is reciprocity failure when that relationship becomes non-linear in long exposures due to the properties of film. The mistake is understandable since everyone (for some reason) shortens reciprocity failure to reciprocity.
@@panh141298 Thank you for that explanation! So, I guess long exposure is considered something longer than 1sec or a bit more. So, for each film there's a different reciprocity failure table? Saying what? Saying that if your exposure tells you 3sec, you actually need to add another 2sec? Is that a correct example? [as I guess the main index here is exposure time- to figure out how much you should add...)
@@eladbari You're completely correct. One just has to scour the online data sheets for failure tables (they map the reciprocal exposure to the actual needed exposure) and when they're not available, go to online forums for help. Though I believe there is the simple rule of raising to power of 1.3 for calculating reciprocal failure that can get you a decent result quickly, kinda like sunny-16. Personally I just use digital for low light since film doesn't offer much benefit in image quality there.
@@panh141298 Oh, definitely! I unfortunately, learned that 35mm film might not suit two cases: 1. Low light situations. [muddy blotchy shadows. bad!] 2. High contrast situations [Backlit etc] I'm afraid #1 won't capture the details from the get go [i.e- the film itself doesn't have that data]. + And in #2 - it just might even be the Scanner which is confused and can't decide what to expose for in such highly contrasting scene. Hence- your image leans to one side [usually highlights]- while ruining the other [usually crushed shadows].... Very harsh to realize that...
having the dome in gives the meter another 1/3 stop of over exposure. That's all. Good for the shade and would usually pull it out when metering a front-lit scene. This meter is broken so the dome is stuck in.
I think the best way would be to take a reading with your meter that you want tested. Then take a reading with a camera to see how similar they are. Then you could also use a lightmeter app on your phone. If you get consistent results, you should get a good idea if it's accurate or not. That's a quick and dirty way to do the testing. Next option would be to find a friend with a newer light meter and take readings side by side. Hope that helps.
@2:10 - seriously? You meter for the shadows in such direct harsh lighting on the other side of her face, and you trust that they won't blow out? That's ballsy...if shutter speed was between 500 & 2000- I'd go with 1000. But you went with 500. All in on the shadows, damn...
Color film usually needs more light than less. By rating at 640, it is intentionally over exposing the film so it is not under exposed. When shooting backlit, the subject dark in the frame compared to the background/sky. In reality, it could have been rated at 400.
In my experience, 800 ASA -rated 640- film on a sunny day with light cloud cover generates an exposure of f 11 at 1/1000 second. ASA 100 rated 84 allows for f5.6 or f5.6 ½ at 1/500th of a second (starting point) allowing for subject separation and a bit of OOF character. Backlighting guarantees the ambient light on the subject is flat and that all that back lit wispy hair looks the same in every photo of every girl shot this way. The agencies do not like it. Metering directly off a gray card sans dome refines the exposure, using the in camera meter which accounts for the lens in use off a gray card refines the exposure further to the point that I am within 1/10th of a stop every frame roll after roll regardless of the content .
Could you elaborate? You're saying agencies don't like backlit shots cause it portrays their model pretty flat? What do they like and what was your main point?
@@eladbari They like backlit photos that are blended with flash. That gives much, much more dimension to the face. The face appears as though it were shot in a studio and the hair appears as it is in the backlight.
@@RickLincoln From what I see every time again & again- the more "flat photos" are the ones where the model is facing the sun. Actually backlit photos & Side-lit photos are the more 3D like, and look much better. What you mean is that they like backlit photos that are mixed with artificial light from the side. I don't know why they like it, and who claims they like it more as usually it doesn't look that natural. But, I get it. Agencies may like the higher end, high fashion, studio like shots. Where everything is super lit, super colorful, and super sharp.
Brilliant video mate. I’ve been away from film for a long time, shot digital since around 2000 and not really used a meter since then, so this is a great refresher. As a coincidence I’ve got the same 2 meters you use, had the L358 used in this video for a while and just picked up a Soligor like you use in your zone system video, largely because I like how simple it is, no bells and whistles :)
This is what I HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR ‼️
So rad to hear! Was it helpful?
Braedon Flynn absolutely!! Great video, it answered so many questions I had in regards to shooting portraits
@@Clifton_McWilliams - so glad. More are on the way.
What was the phone lightmeter app?
I really enjoyed you informative video!
Do you have a video for hss?
Lastly, what were iso settings on this shoot?
Best
William
Thank you for this wonderful video. I bought the same meter after seeing this video and was curious how you set your dip switches inside? Enjoy your content especially different film stocks under a variety of conditions!
Excellent video. Subbed. Also props to the video guy or whoever color graded
Thanks tons and agree. He killed it on the color grading (and editing)
This is what I've been needing since I'm getting into portraiture more. I saw you used the iPhone app, how accurate is it when metering for the shadows?
Great video! I understood why you metered for shadows etc but, at the start you said you set ISO TO 640 for 800 box speed film. Did you just meter with handheld meter and phone app as if you were shooting 800 ISO? And let your exposures be what you metered to? (Hope that makes sense, no adjustment made for ISO 640 then and develop at box speed, correct?)
beautiful photos and great tips.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for saying so.
Enjoy your video a lot ... Thanks Bro .. Really help me shoot the film .
You used an X-Pro 3 for the video. How cool! :-)
Another great video. Super informative and helped me understand how to use my phone app meter as well! Kudos!!
Glad that was helpful!
Lovely photos and great tutorial!! Thank you! Good model too!
one question, why were you using the meter with the bulb in ? thanks
An extremely essential video 🙏🏿 nice work fam
Thanks tons!
You can keep in mind that every time that the differences between the shades and the highlights is 3stop maximum the exposure is right
Since the phone is a reflective meter, how would I expose for the shadows on the model? I'm trying to figure out how I can use my phone as a light meter when I'm not shooting backlit (e.g. a studio shoot), would I also have to walk up to the person or can I stand where I will stand when taking the photo?
Thanks for showing an app version of a light meter! As a beginner, I feel like a physical light meter is too big of an investment for me! Great video ✨
Definitely encourage you to use some sort of light meter. And if the phone is all you have, it definitely works.
I have a question! Say it’s some real harsh sunlight and I’m using the sunny 16 rule. If I already have my shutter speed and iso set and I meter for the shadows, am I changing shutter speed, apereture and iso for the correct exposure or am I only changing one value?
You’ll only be changing the aperture, but if you want more depth of field by using a lower aperture go up 1 to 2 stops on the shutter speed so example you’re shooting portra 400 you’d set Shutter speed at 1/500 or (whatever your camera has closet to it ) then use the range of F5.6-f16 but if you want to get more focused on the model and get bokeh push the shutter speed by 1 stop so 1/1000 then lower the aperture down to a suitable f stop. Hopes this helps.. I’ve learned trail and error on my Pentax 6x7 and studying (writing down my setting each shot)
Thank you for the explanations! I have one question though: the photos you show are straight from the negatives or are they scanned and edited ?
Most likely edited if he’s taking portrait photos of somebody
this footage is so nice
Thanks Bud! Means a lot.
you're watching a video lol
When shooting backlit, wondering if you can get close with your cameras internal lightmeter to the subjects shaded area and measure exposure that way.. then set the exposure manually.. back up and compose your shot.
Yes I’ve done it that way before
I felt your pain when you accidentally tripped the shutter 😭
Ha. 10 shots down to 9.
I’ve done that before too 😬 Lately I haven’t been advancing the film right after pressing the shutter, not sure if that’ll affect the film at all in a negative way, but it keeps me from accidentally tripping the shutter.
Super helpful! Can we have one of how to meter for BW films🤩
Stay tuned. Should be going live on Thursday!
@6:00 - *Wait, what?!* How does rule of reciprocity comes into daylight photography? I thought it only relates to long exposures at night. I'm confused...
Hmm he said that with the lightmeter you can dial up the aperture and it will show up the shutter speed you have to be for the correct exposure, he started with 1000 shutter 2.8 aperture then he wanted more focus in the shot so he went to 5.6 which is 2 stops from 2.8 and if you count 2 stops 1000 shutter is 250 so that's what the meter showed , basically he said in convoluted way that the lightmeter does it's job :D
Rule of reciprocity is the exposure triangle. What you're referring to is reciprocity failure when that relationship becomes non-linear in long exposures due to the properties of film. The mistake is understandable since everyone (for some reason) shortens reciprocity failure to reciprocity.
@@panh141298 Thank you for that explanation!
So, I guess long exposure is considered something longer than 1sec or a bit more. So, for each film there's a different reciprocity failure table? Saying what? Saying that if your exposure tells you 3sec, you actually need to add another 2sec? Is that a correct example? [as I guess the main index here is exposure time- to figure out how much you should add...)
@@eladbari You're completely correct. One just has to scour the online data sheets for failure tables (they map the reciprocal exposure to the actual needed exposure) and when they're not available, go to online forums for help. Though I believe there is the simple rule of raising to power of 1.3 for calculating reciprocal failure that can get you a decent result quickly, kinda like sunny-16. Personally I just use digital for low light since film doesn't offer much benefit in image quality there.
@@panh141298 Oh, definitely! I unfortunately, learned that 35mm film might not suit two cases:
1. Low light situations. [muddy blotchy shadows. bad!]
2. High contrast situations [Backlit etc]
I'm afraid #1 won't capture the details from the get go [i.e- the film itself doesn't have that data]. + And in #2 - it just might even be the Scanner which is confused and can't decide what to expose for in such highly contrasting scene. Hence- your image leans to one side [usually highlights]- while ruining the other [usually crushed shadows]....
Very harsh to realize that...
Nice
What app is that?
Thank you for this video. Simple and informative. Subscribing for more content!
Cool, you just forgot to tell about lumisphere position. I mean yours was hidden inside
and it does make difference))
having the dome in gives the meter another 1/3 stop of over exposure. That's all. Good for the shade and would usually pull it out when metering a front-lit scene. This meter is broken so the dome is stuck in.
Is there a video on choosing a light meter?
This is the one I recommend - filmsupply.club/products/seconic-l-358-light-meter?_pos=3&_sid=fed008dde&_ss=r
Thank you
Im just over here wondering where that beautiful landscape is
I think he said Mexico
El Matador Beach in Malibu, CA.
I have an old light meter that came with my Yashica TL Electro X, and I’m not sure if it’s still accurate. Is there a way I could test my light meter?
I think the best way would be to take a reading with your meter that you want tested. Then take a reading with a camera to see how similar they are. Then you could also use a lightmeter app on your phone. If you get consistent results, you should get a good idea if it's accurate or not. That's a quick and dirty way to do the testing. Next option would be to find a friend with a newer light meter and take readings side by side. Hope that helps.
@@BraedonFlynn Thanks, I’ll give that a try! 🙌
thank you so much!!!
Now do one using GNDs and Polarizers
Do you use your spot meter for portraits?
No way. Ryan Reynolds now a film shooter
Why are you underexposing Kodak Portra 400 at i.s.o 640?, It reacts much better for portraits wen overexposed at i.s.o. 200
He is not underexposing. He's overexposing. It's 800 iso film. He's shooting at 640, therefore overexposing by less than 1 stop.
he’s shooting portra 800 not 400
800 iso shot at 640 is 1/3 stop overexposing
Anyone else wondering what the accidental frame looked like? Probably not haha
Great video but let’s be honest Elizabeth stole the show. Didn’t know they allowed lionesses on the beach
Yes she did!
@2:10 - seriously? You meter for the shadows in such direct harsh lighting on the other side of her face, and you trust that they won't blow out?
That's ballsy...if shutter speed was between 500 & 2000- I'd go with 1000. But you went with 500. All in on the shadows, damn...
Color negative film retains highlights very well
With the dome of the lightmeter retracted? Really?
It provides a bit more light. Shooting back-lit, the subject needs all the light it can get.
she is beautiful
Why shoot at 640 instead of 800 boxspeed? Fear of overexposing the image?
Color film usually needs more light than less. By rating at 640, it is intentionally over exposing the film so it is not under exposed. When shooting backlit, the subject dark in the frame compared to the background/sky. In reality, it could have been rated at 400.
@@FilmSupplyClub Ahh ok ok, thank you :)
In my experience, 800 ASA -rated 640- film on a sunny day with light cloud cover generates an exposure of f 11 at 1/1000 second. ASA 100 rated 84 allows for f5.6 or f5.6 ½ at 1/500th of a second (starting point) allowing for subject separation and a bit of OOF character.
Backlighting guarantees the ambient light on the subject is flat and that all that back lit wispy hair looks the same in every photo of every girl shot this way. The agencies do not like it.
Metering directly off a gray card sans dome refines the exposure, using the in camera meter which accounts for the lens in use off a gray card refines the exposure further to the point that I am within 1/10th of a stop every frame roll after roll regardless of the content .
Could you elaborate? You're saying agencies don't like backlit shots cause it portrays their model pretty flat? What do they like and what was your main point?
I dont get it. What do agencies like, then?
Do they not like backlit photos cause they flatten out model's face?
@@eladbari They like backlit photos that are blended with flash. That gives much, much more dimension to the face. The face appears as though it were shot in a studio and the hair appears as it is in the backlight.
@@RickLincoln From what I see every time again & again- the more "flat photos" are the ones where the model is facing the sun. Actually backlit photos & Side-lit photos are the more 3D like, and look much better.
What you mean is that they like backlit photos that are mixed with artificial light from the side. I don't know why they like it, and who claims they like it more as usually it doesn't look that natural. But, I get it. Agencies may like the higher end, high fashion, studio like shots. Where everything is super lit, super colorful, and super sharp.
The photos that you meter with the camera app were way better exposed in my opinion :D
Who is she?
Caucasian skin is Zone 6, you seem to be missing that important point.
he's using incidental metering not spot; you missed that important point , no need for adjustments
Dude, how much salt spray are you letting eat your camera and lens...salt water is the devil.