I think the cracking sound is actually the print peeling off the fep. It gets quieter after the first 5 layers once the exposure time drops to a few seconds.
@@NoizieWorks interesting, maybe mine doesn't do it or it could just be that I am half deaf after working in a car audio shop in my youth :D For me, the noise I hear goes away after the first 5 long exposure layers. My build plate seems pretty level though, I see very little spring movement when it is first lowered to the bed. Regardless, the build plate design is definitely a week point of the printer. Other than that (and a few software crashes), I love mine. It has been running almost non-stop for about a month now. Great review!
It is a bit of an oversight to advertise time laps capability without lighting. However I think people are missing that the AI is using the reflected UV light to detect print failures. The darker everything else is, the easier it is for the camera to pick up the UV. If the printer is flooded with light from LEDs this ability is diminished. But it should have LEDS for time-lapse mode and just warn you it might not catch a failure.
I probably don't print as much as you but I actually prefer the test each time it boots. Prints take hours and I'd rather have less of a chance of a failure. It seems worth it to me.
In regards to your comment about testfiles only on the USB rather than printer storage: whenever you slice a file yourself, you can send it via network to the printer
Nice video. This is not even a review you said, but you gave more detailed information then most other reviews out there. So... waiting for your review video. Drip Tray will be a consumable I think. They don't want you to clean it.
Dang. I was going to use this printer to print items directly on the plate. I guess I need to get another plate that I can modify so it does not self level. Mine has already shipped or else I would cancel and wait a few more months to see if the layer squishing can be resolved.
still needs to be tested but i'm afraid it's going to suffer on first layers. On mine you can clearly see that the front is sitting lower then the back so that 1mm is going to be unreliable.
@@NoizieWorks Yes can confirm pretty huge issues with printing directly on the plate which is primarily what I do for functional parts. Very disappointing that we can't choose to manually level the build plate.
@@NoizieWorks It's worth mentioning to you, maybe you want to mention in your full review. Currently "Home" is at the top of the Z Axis, so it's not easy to test for level or equal grip on screen. You have to run a dry print and set exposure very high like 1-2 minutes so you can test while it's "printing" the first layer. This is imporant because a number of people have reported that their printer has stopped printing on part of the build plate, it turns out it's because the build plate is sitting too far from the PFA in those areas and there's no way to adjust it. It just randomly happens too which is also scary. The issue I think is the build plate spring mechanism actually weakens from use and eventually is just loose with no way to tighten it. Some users have reported a new build plate fixed it while others had to get a replacement unit. This leaves me a bit concerned for my print farm. Also if your burn in or transition layers continue onto your supports, there's a good chance the "auto leveling" pressure will puncture your PFA as reported by many users online. I also wish the heater power button was also NOT in the back where you can't reach it.
Thanks and yikes! The ones on the back hardly move while the front springs have about 1mm of "spring" i have already seen indents on the fep.... now with the peel i'm going to test transitions before support phase. I haven't followed other youtubers and their experiences, so this already starts to feel sad... time to put in some hours but first a cold beer and some vacation 🛫
I think you can adjust the level of the build plate with the screw heads that are on the top of the posts that stick out. I wonder how difficult it would be to adapt the build plate from the Saturn 3 Ultra to work with this printer? I think the spring loaded build plate is a bad idea in general.
Thanks for the review! I'm considering upgrading my Mars 3, so this was helpful. Unrelated question: How are you having difficulty removing the supports? I use the standard resin and the supports always detach with very little force without leaving any scars. I can always just grab the model out of the supports like I'm ripping paper. Maybe the supports of the model were WAAAY too thick?
Hi Noizie! Great video as ever. I got this same machine few days ago and already printed with it some minis. I had a surprise in finding that to be faster then my 3Ultra ACF i had to set the 4 Ultra at 0.05mm height (the 3 is working very well on 0.03mm). Will you do a comparative speed test with your other printer? Not only printing same piece at same parameters but also print same pieces at fastest possible speed for specific machine?
Sir. I have an original jupiter, but sone parts require a lot of supporta due to the amount of suction the huge jupiter plate has when filled with models... i was hoping the S4U would reduce these forces and allow me to get away with less supports which will speed up the clean up stage.
Do you have a UV-meter and a UV LED flashlight? A French youtuber discovered that the grey translucent plastic cover of the new Mars 5 Ultra is transparent to UV light! He's used to testing many MSLA 3D printers (including their lid as well as the uniformity and brightness of the screen under the vat) and he was shocked to discover this. That's something he never saw on any other printer including those from Elegoo. The green plastic cover of the Saturn 4 (Non-Ultra) correctly blocks UV light, for example. He has not tested the Saturn 4 Ultra… This is puzzling as the resin left in the vat could cure (depending on how much sunlight enters the room) and the lid of the S4U seems to be made of the same plastic as the M5U!
I've tried yesterday to slice with lycheslicer, but it was veeeeeeeeery long print like 38mm height 0,02 and 12h. Anyone has proper settings for lychee? I can't get used to that chitu
@DiavloPL since the last update they removed a lot of functionality to the money version so i went backt to chitu i posted all the support settings and profiles for jupiter and S3U on youtube under the community tab.(supports also work for the s4u)
hello i am having problems with my camera, when i turn on it is all black and when i close and restar the camera i just close the chitu manager any solution?
@@NoizieWorks one of them updated the chitubox and afther that the camera stop working, but i think the problem is the chitubox manager not the chitubox because i tried the 2.1 and the 2.2 and the result is the same but in both versions they have the same version of chitubox manager
The self test / boot up is a bit slow ☹ but yeh how many times do you do that a day. But one thing annoys me, is that then idle, there is a continuous sound. And then power of, you hear the steppermotor releasing his power. (Like us after a long day work in the hot sun, after the fist drink😂)
Yes, i also see the vat drop after power down. My shop is not quit so i don't hear it and i have a remote power down for the complete "farm". Ah yes, few more days and it's vacation time! The release will be substantial😆
Feel if you got a print farm you should be running Jupiter’s in the first place. This printer is great for speed but in terms of size and efficiency the Jupiter is the only farm printer you need
elegoo prime day special is BS For item save up to 44%off. you can save %44 if the item is used or open box but the problem is i checked in minutes after prime day started and the used or open box where not available which forced you to buy NEW and the discount was so small it made me not want to buy it because of your bait and switch scam on used or open box, and to top it off on any special i see like on amazon they dont put used junk up for sale on prime day and your used item is buy as it NO RETURN. This is the second time i know of you pulled this stunt. then you marked up mars 5 then gave a discount but that was not a discount because on a youtube review the guy said the people at elegoo said it would be $269 which it still is right now but you say original price $337 that a bad way trying to fool people, maybe a prime day some where else from another company would be a better choice. do NOT Treat people like there stupid, it only makes you look like a fool
@A-Eye--A US? Here in EU it's not even a thing to see any printer go for big sales on prime day. Open box and returns just go on a pallet that gets sold off in bulk.
I think the cracking sound is actually the print peeling off the fep. It gets quieter after the first 5 layers once the exposure time drops to a few seconds.
@chrismatney639 it's definitely the spring mechanism making noise, the fep is actually not that loud but like you say it's gonne after 50 or so layers
@@NoizieWorks interesting, maybe mine doesn't do it or it could just be that I am half deaf after working in a car audio shop in my youth :D For me, the noise I hear goes away after the first 5 long exposure layers. My build plate seems pretty level though, I see very little spring movement when it is first lowered to the bed. Regardless, the build plate design is definitely a week point of the printer. Other than that (and a few software crashes), I love mine. It has been running almost non-stop for about a month now.
Great review!
@chrismatney639 thanks brother, mine a bit tweaked i think.
Audio shop? Cool stuff! Recently stumbled EXO on yt... missbthe days of beind a basshead
I think you can do resin tests with 4/6/8 models. You just press the button multiple times to scroll thru.
Hint: grab a short USB extension cable, print a support for it and you can put the usb port anywhere you need it to be :)
@@PedroLiberal cool idea!
@@NoizieWorks glad to help! Hope to continue seeing cool videos like this!
@@PedroLiberal thanks bud!
During calibration if your press the middle windows button it'll give you more options to calibrate
It is a bit of an oversight to advertise time laps capability without lighting. However I think people are missing that the AI is using the reflected UV light to detect print failures. The darker everything else is, the easier it is for the camera to pick up the UV. If the printer is flooded with light from LEDs this ability is diminished. But it should have LEDS for time-lapse mode and just warn you it might not catch a failure.
@dv8tyler692 great info! Thanks for the explanation
你是对的
I probably don't print as much as you but I actually prefer the test each time it boots. Prints take hours and I'd rather have less of a chance of a failure. It seems worth it to me.
@@Happilymarrieddad thanks for sharing!
05:20 In fact, you can open the lid by simply pressing a single finger in the area at the top of the triangular white pictogram.
@@fluxcapacitor yeah that doesn't always work that well on mine
Excellent 😊
In regards to your comment about testfiles only on the USB rather than printer storage: whenever you slice a file yourself, you can send it via network to the printer
yes i know, i expected to find test files in memory instead of the usb
Nice video. This is not even a review you said, but you gave more detailed information then most other reviews out there. So... waiting for your review video. Drip Tray will be a consumable I think. They don't want you to clean it.
@panoramer-rr2mu thanks bud! A consumable 🙈 ooow elegoo
Yeah that drip tray logo seems annoying... pour resin inside and let it cure. 😁
Excellent solution!
A Drip Tray: Military Maxim: If it Looks Stupid but it Works... It ain't Stupid.
Dang. I was going to use this printer to print items directly on the plate. I guess I need to get another plate that I can modify so it does not self level. Mine has already shipped or else I would cancel and wait a few more months to see if the layer squishing can be resolved.
still needs to be tested but i'm afraid it's going to suffer on first layers. On mine you can clearly see that the front is sitting lower then the back so that 1mm is going to be unreliable.
@@NoizieWorks Yes can confirm pretty huge issues with printing directly on the plate which is primarily what I do for functional parts. Very disappointing that we can't choose to manually level the build plate.
@@generationace thanks for sharing!
@@NoizieWorks It's worth mentioning to you, maybe you want to mention in your full review. Currently "Home" is at the top of the Z Axis, so it's not easy to test for level or equal grip on screen. You have to run a dry print and set exposure very high like 1-2 minutes so you can test while it's "printing" the first layer. This is imporant because a number of people have reported that their printer has stopped printing on part of the build plate, it turns out it's because the build plate is sitting too far from the PFA in those areas and there's no way to adjust it. It just randomly happens too which is also scary. The issue I think is the build plate spring mechanism actually weakens from use and eventually is just loose with no way to tighten it. Some users have reported a new build plate fixed it while others had to get a replacement unit. This leaves me a bit concerned for my print farm. Also if your burn in or transition layers continue onto your supports, there's a good chance the "auto leveling" pressure will puncture your PFA as reported by many users online. I also wish the heater power button was also NOT in the back where you can't reach it.
Thanks and yikes! The ones on the back hardly move while the front springs have about 1mm of "spring" i have already seen indents on the fep.... now with the peel i'm going to test transitions before support phase.
I haven't followed other youtubers and their experiences, so this already starts to feel sad... time to put in some hours but first a cold beer and some vacation 🛫
I think you can adjust the level of the build plate with the screw heads that are on the top of the posts that stick out. I wonder how difficult it would be to adapt the build plate from the Saturn 3 Ultra to work with this printer? I think the spring loaded build plate is a bad idea in general.
@@supergiantbubbles will have to dick around with it to know
Thanks for the review! I'm considering upgrading my Mars 3, so this was helpful. Unrelated question: How are you having difficulty removing the supports? I use the standard resin and the supports always detach with very little force without leaving any scars. I can always just grab the model out of the supports like I'm ripping paper. Maybe the supports of the model were WAAAY too thick?
@EntropicEcho yup, the new chitu 2.2 auto support on the basic are just too thick. Didn't use my own settings.
And thanks bud! Btw not a review😄
Hi Noizie! Great video as ever. I got this same machine few days ago and already printed with it some minis. I had a surprise in finding that to be faster then my 3Ultra ACF i had to set the 4 Ultra at 0.05mm height (the 3 is working very well on 0.03mm). Will you do a comparative speed test with your other printer? Not only printing same piece at same parameters but also print same pieces at fastest possible speed for specific machine?
@@Feilyan Yes!
Beer, hooray
Sir. I have an original jupiter, but sone parts require a lot of supporta due to the amount of suction the huge jupiter plate has when filled with models... i was hoping the S4U would reduce these forces and allow me to get away with less supports which will speed up the clean up stage.
@JohnSmith-rt5yq i have posted my goldy locks settings for the jupiter here on youtube.
Lookbunder the community tab. Give them a try
Haha you really didnt do the printer any favours putting it next ti the Jupiter 🤣 it looks so small.
@@Bobby11 🤷♂️😆
Do you have a UV-meter and a UV LED flashlight? A French youtuber discovered that the grey translucent plastic cover of the new Mars 5 Ultra is transparent to UV light! He's used to testing many MSLA 3D printers (including their lid as well as the uniformity and brightness of the screen under the vat) and he was shocked to discover this. That's something he never saw on any other printer including those from Elegoo. The green plastic cover of the Saturn 4 (Non-Ultra) correctly blocks UV light, for example. He has not tested the Saturn 4 Ultra… This is puzzling as the resin left in the vat could cure (depending on how much sunlight enters the room) and the lid of the S4U seems to be made of the same plastic as the M5U!
@fluxcapacitor yikes that's bad! Meter no but that's just an order away 😉
@@NoizieWorks Please keep us informed!
@fluxcapacitor i will, first it's time for some vacation, has been a loooong freaking year 🛫🍻
@@NoizieWorks Well deserved! Enjoy your vacation :)
@@fluxcapacitor thanks brother!
I've tried yesterday to slice with lycheslicer, but it was veeeeeeeeery long print like 38mm height 0,02 and 12h. Anyone has proper settings for lychee? I can't get used to that chitu
@DiavloPL since the last update they removed a lot of functionality to the money version so i went backt to chitu i posted all the support settings and profiles for jupiter and S3U on youtube under the community tab.(supports also work for the s4u)
hello i am having problems with my camera, when i turn on it is all black and when i close and restar the camera i just close the chitu manager any solution?
@@luisrocha2762 doesn't sound like it's working correctly. I would start looking at cabling to see if everything is plugged in ok
@@NoizieWorks i dont think is that because other people is having the same problem since yesterday
@luisrocha2762 firmware update of the printer or slicer update? In both cases you can only reach out to elegoo
@@NoizieWorks one of them updated the chitubox and afther that the camera stop working, but i think the problem is the chitubox manager not the chitubox because i tried the 2.1 and the 2.2 and the result is the same but in both versions they have the same version of chitubox manager
@luisrocha2762 then your out of luck untill they fix it
The self test / boot up is a bit slow ☹ but yeh how many times do you do that a day. But one thing annoys me, is that then idle, there is a continuous sound. And then power of, you hear the steppermotor releasing his power. (Like us after a long day work in the hot sun, after the fist drink😂)
Yes, i also see the vat drop after power down.
My shop is not quit so i don't hear it and i have a remote power down for the complete "farm".
Ah yes, few more days and it's vacation time! The release will be substantial😆
Elegoo should calm down regarding the design, at our print farm, we would prefer a cleaner and more profesional look
@lucianolizana446 yes, It's a bit dramatic.
Feel if you got a print farm you should be running Jupiter’s in the first place. This printer is great for speed but in terms of size and efficiency the Jupiter is the only farm printer you need
elegoo prime day special is BS For item save up to 44%off. you can save %44 if the item is used or open box but the problem is i checked in minutes after prime day started and the used or open box where not available which forced you to buy NEW and the discount was so small it made me not want to buy it because of your bait and switch scam on used or open box, and to top it off on any special i see like on amazon they dont put used junk up for sale on prime day and your used item is buy as it NO RETURN. This is the second time i know of you pulled this stunt. then you marked up mars 5 then gave a discount but that was not a discount because on a youtube review the guy said the people at elegoo said it would be $269 which it still is right now but you say original price $337 that a bad way trying to fool people, maybe a prime day some where else from another company would be a better choice. do NOT Treat people like there stupid, it only makes you look like a fool
@A-Eye--A US? Here in EU it's not even a thing to see any printer go for big sales on prime day. Open box and returns just go on a pallet that gets sold off in bulk.