I am in the middle of replacing mine and decided to watch your video on it. I got the OEM water pump with oil cooler and it came with the rubber/silicon and metal gasket. I didnt put any RTV on it as I didn't think that type of gasket needed it. I looked through the Hanes manual and it said either RTV, or a gasket. What are your thoughts on that? I also replaced idler and tensioner pullies, timing belt, fan, radiator, hoses, and thermostat. Anything I should watch out for in those areas too? Thanks for the video!
Like you said it is recommended to use a thin coat of rtv but I down bunch of mechanics that’d use just a dry metal gasket like you did , I d just test drive it and be careful with checking it in the few first trips it should seal. You definitely covered everything almost and that is the beauty of the 3vze it is pretty simple and on top. Of that it is none interference engine
I just had a new Water pump and timing belts and everything else in the area 6 months ago and now my water pump failed already and it was from Auto zone. So I went with the Toyota brand one so hopefully I don't have to do all this all over again. Replacing quality Toyota parts with cheap parts takes away the reliability. Hope your pump lasted longer then mine did. But damn parts are expensive. They wanted @$300 for the new tensioner and idler pullies and the water pump was $270 seems rediculus but I love this thing. 93 4 Runner wth the 3.0 and 5 speed , 38.5 Bogger Tires 6 inch lift and loads more. So anyways I'm,doing mine again but with the good parts. Thanks for the refresher course lol. I went through 7 starters from Auto Zone on anther car. I won't buy thier electrical crap.
Definitely I agree with you about the very poor quality of reman parts from AutoZone , Napa , ext . Or even brand new after market parts are junk . I had to put 3 alternators on a ford truck and eventually I went to the dealership and got it. Yeah them water pump aftermarket are hit and miss , I definitely got so lucky with this one it is still running fine so far. I won’t gamble again with them cheap parts anymore. And that is definitely cool you have the manual transmission. Mine is auto and I don’t like it lol
Yep, it'll squeeze out alright. Right into the block and clog the radiator. One should only apply silicone or gasket cinch to one side only and that's the side the part is on.
Jaime Alvarez yes I have been doing this for years , never had a problem, I may have it too much true but I respect torque specs it won’t squeeze out and it will leave the gap for the RTV. Leaving the rtv cure for 24 h is also important and the amount squeezed out should be the same as inside it is not that much. I appreciate your remark next time I will consider this
Also, finger-tighten the bolts and wait 10 minutes. That pushes the material into shape. Gives it time to partly firm up. Then torque to spec. If too fast, gasket material becomes too thin.
Joshua Duncan oh buddy there are a lot to remove but not hard , the only part that will bug you is pulling the harmonic balancer. I wish I had that on video
Thanks for this, man. Just what I needed to keep my 4runner alive! (95 4wd manual)
you are welcome bud , i am glad it helped , yeah them 4runners with a minimum care they will run forever ,
I am in the middle of replacing mine and decided to watch your video on it. I got the OEM water pump with oil cooler and it came with the rubber/silicon and metal gasket. I didnt put any RTV on it as I didn't think that type of gasket needed it. I looked through the Hanes manual and it said either RTV, or a gasket. What are your thoughts on that? I also replaced idler and tensioner pullies, timing belt, fan, radiator, hoses, and thermostat. Anything I should watch out for in those areas too? Thanks for the video!
Like you said it is recommended to use a thin coat of rtv but I down bunch of mechanics that’d use just a dry metal gasket like you did , I d just test drive it and be careful with checking it in the few first trips it should seal.
You definitely covered everything almost and that is the beauty of the 3vze it is pretty simple and on top. Of that it is none interference engine
I just had a new Water pump and timing belts and everything else in the area 6 months ago and now my water pump failed already and it was from Auto zone. So I went with the Toyota brand one so hopefully I don't have to do all this all over again. Replacing quality Toyota parts with cheap parts takes away the reliability. Hope your pump lasted longer then mine did. But damn parts are expensive. They wanted @$300 for the new tensioner and idler pullies and the water pump was $270 seems rediculus but I love this thing. 93 4 Runner wth the 3.0 and 5 speed , 38.5 Bogger Tires 6 inch lift and loads more. So anyways I'm,doing mine again but with the good parts. Thanks for the refresher course lol. I went through 7 starters from Auto Zone on anther car. I won't buy thier electrical crap.
Definitely I agree with you about the very poor quality of reman parts from AutoZone , Napa , ext . Or even brand new after market parts are junk . I had to put 3 alternators on a ford truck and eventually I went to the dealership and got it.
Yeah them water pump aftermarket are hit and miss , I definitely got so lucky with this one it is still running fine so far. I won’t gamble again with them cheap parts anymore. And that is definitely cool you have the manual transmission. Mine is auto and I don’t like it lol
Yep, it'll squeeze out alright. Right into the block and clog the radiator. One should only apply silicone or gasket cinch to one side only and that's the side the part is on.
Jaime Alvarez yes I have been doing this for years , never had a problem, I may have it too much true but I respect torque specs it won’t squeeze out and it will leave the gap for the RTV.
Leaving the rtv cure for 24 h is also important and the amount squeezed out should be the same as inside it is not that much.
I appreciate your remark next time I will consider this
@@WheelersHoarder ok, I guess experience is the best teacher.
Also, finger-tighten the bolts and wait 10 minutes. That pushes the material into shape. Gives it time to partly firm up. Then torque to spec. If too fast, gasket material becomes too thin.
How did you get everything off to work on it??? Need help plz
Joshua Duncan oh buddy there are a lot to remove but not hard , the only part that will bug you is pulling the harmonic balancer. I wish I had that on video
My question is how do you remove everything
sorry bro I will try to work on being much more serious , I just decided I skip that instead of using bad quality recording
Cant hear you