New to diesel I just bought a f250 at the auction ran it 132 miles runs pretty good just has a lil miss on it... it reves up sometimes on it's own and when I'm a 50mph it shakes like its hesitating please lmk what it can be thanks
Do you have anyway to monitor your truck. Check out my video on torque Pro. There are lots of options for monitoring your truck but you need something. So to help I need to know if you have any trouble codes?
6.0 Bros I’m having this same issue he is stating no codes and I have a act to monitor my truck. I also have a egr delete str8 pipe upgraded pipes and turbo upgrade. Truck starts to vibrate at 50mph and it takes a little while to start from cold start up. Any advice is appropriated thanks
So depending on which sct you have to monitor will depend if it will tell us what we need. Things I need to know are ficm main vintage should be at 48. There is also a ficm logic which should read at least 12 volts. But typically will read more between 13-14 depending on alternator health.
Also checking icp and ipr can help I would measure both of those at idle and WOT. So let me know when you get those numbers all for me and we can go from there
+Diesels R Life will do buddy as long as we are growing and people want to watch we are going to keep making the channel bigger and better. Let us know if you have any suggestions.
So many people forget a failing fuel pump cause injectors to go out prematurely as well... after nearly replacing all my injectors I still had problems and soon checked my fuel pressure which was a measly 25psi MAX. 45psi min required on these trucks.
This isbspot on minimum of 45 to not cause damage, and a max of 75psi. I have spoke to injector builders and the community and it is not advised to be over 75 as it can prematurely wear out o rings I was told.
@@six0bros Exactly!! I was so mad after spending a few grand on new injectors when the culprit was my fuel pump. Currently don’t have a 6.0 at the moment but ready to get another one! Had the blue spring, KC turbo 10 blade/61mm combo, Egr delete and some other goodies and I miss it!
New sub, glad to see a 6.0 channel that people aren’t bashing.. Every third or so fill up I use some used engine oil out of my oil change about a quart and dump it in a full tank of fuel, this seemed to help with That dreaded Stiction.
6.0 Bros i used to use it as well, for my truck and where I live. For whatever reason good old used rotella t6 actually works the best for me anyways, even on a fresh set of injectors in the middle of winter here I get some stiction. I also have gone through a ficm with low voltage causing what seemed to be the same effects. Just an FYI I’m not sure if you’ve been through the trials of the truck yet. Also need some of them stickers!
Atleast its on bank 2,which is the easier side...biggest recommendation I have,if you have to mess with bank 2(driver side,left side,whatever..lol) do yourself a favor and replace the de-gas bottle supply hoses and always replace the bottle cap....those "Y" fittings where the supply hoses join,always love to break at that plastic fitting......and always use caution when un-clipping the FICM harnesses, as those clips love to break,so unless you wanna have a bunch of zip ties holding the connectors,use caution and patience while disconnecting them...they are a weather pack style,so they have to be all seated all the way in or there's a possibility one pin won't make contact, in turn giving a false positive for said,dead cylinder(if you have a miss,always check ficm connections first..seen it happen several times,where for example #3 will show short high to low and it's just because of a loose harness..in this case,this injector is shot,due to the white smoke,with either a cracked nozzle or hung cartridge, which can actually hydro lock the engine due to the metering needle basically being useless at that point,or best case,a bad o-ring for the fuel gallery... .if it was just the coil on the injector, It'll just miss,without any smoke......and just a FYI for other independent techs,that are learning about the 6.0, that may be reading this,Ford has now discontinued production of the Fuel Injector harness........Also, 6.0 Bros..im assuming thats an 04' cause it's using the boost butterfly,but If you wanna keep that code from coming back,reinstall the actuator,but leave the butterfly off,of coarse...that should prevent the code from returning so you can get rid of that p1000...while p1000 is present,these engines won't get there best economy, cause they're still in the "re-learn" process..(or,you can change the value with ForScan,or tune,or even use an 05' pcm which doesn't use the butterfly, even though the plug is still there on the 05-07's)...and if you need the procedure to get rid of the drive cycle incomplete code(p1000),Let me know and I'll send you the procedure...its very easy...takes about 45mins of driving in various conditions......great vid though guys 👍....A lot of people talk shit about the 6.0,but they're actually a great engine once they're bulletproofed
I have found the main causes of injector failure on the 6.0 Powerstroke are: The Most Common of the reasons is running the engine with worn out or contaminated engine oil "HEUI" Remember the Injectors are also controlled by oil pressure Followed by Wiring Harness Chaffing or worn end connectors Low Voltage "cranking engine for an extended period with under 12v in batts" Poor or dirty Ground contact points Weak or Discharging Alternator Oh FYI I own 4, And each one have taught me a lot!!!!
I have a 2003 f250 with an 05 engine in it and when I start the truck it doesn't really smoke maybe a tiny haze but as soon as the turbo kicks in it starts smoking white bluish smoke bad and when I drive the truck after about 10 mins when it's up to temperature it goes away just blows a little haze if I really step on it once I turn it off let it sit and cool all the way cold and re start it later it's the same thing what can that be truck drives excellent no shakes or nothing
Blue tint is almost always a sign of oil burning, Most likely your turbo seals are worn out. Unbolt the exhaust pipe on the pass side rear of the turbo and check for oil buildup, its only 1 clamp. If there is a lot of buildup remove the turbo and rebuild it, its very cost effective to rebuild it yourself (about 20% the cost of a reman turbo). Just remember the Impeller wheel is LH thread.
Yes please make more 6.0 videos just got me one and I'm new to owning one. Right now the one I got has already been bulletproofed so I'm trying to learn what else I can do for it. Other then it and the transmission everything else is stock. Never had a programmer on it either.
I cannot remember if I responded to this or not, but I hope things have improved and you guys are working that out. I can say the gas should not have taken out more than maybe the injectors and fuel pump, granted that is still very expensive.
He took it out just because it isn't used. In original tuning I believe it was used to aid in cold weather warming up the engine, but it was disabled in later programming to my knowledge.
Can the injector buzz healthy but not fire while running?I'm getting white smoke and #3 cylinder missing.i unplugged all injectors except one and they sound good and healthy.im down to checking compression or a bad injector I believe.
@@six0bros I found the problem.after studs were installed by another shop,I'm guessing the rocker arms were never re torqued.the rocker was broke and every pedestal was loose
@@six0bros no it seemed like low compression.but with 90k Miles and one owner, I hoped that wasn't the issue.but I don't know if the bulletproof stud upgrade says to torque the 10mm rocker bolts,but all I can figure is the studs clamp so much tighter that the bolts were then loose.it made it about 3000 miles since the head studs were installed.and it kicked the valve/rocker bridge.bith sides every bolt was lose or hand tight.
I got a 6.0 we just deleted and replaced injector 2 as it was pretty much dead. After replacing it we contribution tested it and cylinder 2 was good but it started missing again and now claiming 1 and 8 are dead. Truck doesn’t smoke whatsoever just misses and is extremely sluggish
Update: replaced Injector 4 final analysis was it was dead. Truck ran good for about a day say over the weekend tried to start it Monday morning and only got 72 psi of fuel rail pressure vs the 1100 or so it demands. Pretty sure HPOP went out
So I just bought a 04 6.0 and I noticed it had that exact coolant filter too what’s the point of that never seen that before. Also it doesn’t ever get to proper temp I wanna be able to use my heater soon but where should I start to get to regular temperature?
People think a coolant filter will catch anything that will clog the oil cooler. It won't. I run one too though. As for coolant temp not getting up the thermostat probably just failed. The spring looses tension over time thats all. Here is an affiliate link to a Motorcraft one. amzn.to/3mdVhed
I have a 2005 f350 dully it was running good and the next day I try to start it but it started ruff and I took it to the shop and they told me that 2 injectors was bad on each bank and I don’t no nobody that can work on it I was goin to change all the injectors my self any recommendation or tips to try to find the problem like you videos thanks
@@six0bros thank you because I don’t have a check engine light but I think an injector is going bad. I’m going to put it on a code reader tonight. Btw this video really helps and you guys replying to me helps even more thank you so much
+Brad Hagen I do plan to use ar9100 moving forward but I didn't think it was going to revive the current injector failure. I have heard some great things in resolving stiction maybe it would have but we did go and replace it
What is the T in the lil hose going from degas to radiator with the blue hose going to something on the passenger side, also what year is your truck? Mine is an 05 F450 6.0 liter, and when doing the cylinder contribution test, 1,3,and 5 where negative numbers, indicating a misfire at idle from my snap on verus pro. I accelerate to about 1800 rpm for about a minute and all numbers from both banks are all roughly zero with the driverside bank 2,4,6,8 are zero to positive 5, and passenger side bank 1,3,5,7 are negative 5 to zero. Once I let off rpm comes back to about 680 - 700 and now 1,3,5 and 7 are all negative 19 to 40 and driverside are all positive numbers. The ficm is 48V, and the 2 other ficm data pids are approx battery voltage. Now I just got this truck and know little about it, it has 233k miles, and 8k engine hours, not sure if it is stock engine, this is a tow truck. I have no power under load, whether I put it into gear it falls on its face and almost dies. If I turn pto on its fine until I toggle one of the switches for the boom, and again it falls on its face or kills the truck. If I put it in neutral or park I can rev it up some but can tell it's running crappy and smoothes out some while accelerating. I'm just wandering if it is in the fuel pressure for it to be just that bank of injectors or?!?!
the t is to a bypass filter for coolant. sounds like you need to replace injectors but I would double check fuel pressure first, also your ipr and icp as well.
Asked a lot of question lately but have an issue that maybe you could answer better than the forums. When the truck is cold(er) it was a stutter right at 1800 to 2200 rpms really bad like a pop out of the exhaust. But when the oil temp hit about 185 to 190 it goes away entirely and runs just like it should. Is this a bad stiction or a bad injector? Don’t have any cold starting issues that seem to be worse than a normal diesel cold start
Don't worry about asking questions that is what this channel is here for man, to help people. Now do you have a code reader? If so any codes coming up? The first thing I would check is all electrical connections. I would really focus on the ficm harness as well. I would press on the connections in the back of the ficm there are 3 of them, and then I would check each individual injector too. After that check the main wiring harness and just make sure everything is good there too
There are no codes other than icp but that’s because it is unplugged since truck will not start with it. I know the ficm harness is not the most secure and I should probably replace it. I’ve been thinking that since I had the ficm 58v and reflowed power supply it stopped doing that for a couple days then came back
So if the truck went start with the icp plugged in then it is bad and I would replace it. Next I would get a new Ford ficm harness. It sounds like that may be your problem.
@@six0bros Good afternoon.The FICM unit outputs 48.5 on the ignition turned on, 49.3 on the wound up. Can you tell me where to dig further?The injectors do not crack when the ignition is turned on.
hi 6.0 bros i have a 2005 ford f_250 6.0 and when driving down road at about 55 to 60 speed my truck starts shacking and sounds and feels like it wants to loose power so i slam on the fuel and drive it like i stole it and runs better then slow down lower rpms and it starts all over again ?
The other thing I would double check is drivetrain parts as well as suspension. So ball joints wheel bearings u joints, drive shaft u joints. If you have the carrier bearing in yiu ipr driveshaft double check those as well.
i know this is an old video but, my truck starts no problem but the truck misses it doesnt matter if its cold or i let it warm up. cranks evenly so i dont think it is a motor problem. buzz test sounds uneven. i assume that means an injector is bad? truck went from great to one morning missing. its so bad i cant drive it the truck will die when trying to move. little to no smoke.
@@six0bros it's not pushing any air that I can feel, all the rocker arms got new plastic clip things when I studded the truck about 2 months ago. I did start it today and used forscan to see what was happening. 6&8 have a weak buzz when doing the buzz test individually. And the truck smoked pretty good this time around.
I misread your first post. I thought you said it didnt crank evenly I am very sorry about that. With what you have said I am led to believe you do have an injector issue. What are your exact codes?
@@six0bros that's the thing it isn't throwing any codes atleast none my scanner can grab. I have a glow plug open circuit code but I've had that for months.
@@EditsWithBlur can you get me the following items while cranking and for what ever brief time the truck runs. Ficm sync, ficm main power, icp measured in volts, ipr% cam sync
So I bought a 03’ 6.0 and injector 8 has no contribution and 1,3,7 are going out and the truck when it cranks has the consistency of yours. With knowing about the injectors does that mean I will probably need a engine rebuild or just the injectors sense there is consistency and lack of compression. And should I expect a engine rebuild soon
@@nathonsmithson3024 lol I'm the dude that is hard on them haha. Just making sure I wasnt doing something dumb. For a second I was like o crap am I messing something up lol
Hey I am brand new to 6.0 bros and I need some help. I have a 03 6.0 with 245K miles. Truck randomly died and then would start back up and run fine, check engine light came on. Code was P2623 - Injector control pressure regulator circuit / open. All the research I could do led me to the IPR. I eventually changed it and foolishly did not change the ICP which was right next to the IPR on the back of the motor. The truck ran fine for a few days and then would get sluggish once it warmed and had little to no power. I had it scanned and they said that the ICP was showing strange voltage and acting weird and that cylinder 3 had low contribution. I changed the ICP, rescanned and the cylinders seemed ok and the truck ran amazing for a few days. Now it is smoking like crazy. Smokes on idle (lighter smoke) and blows darker smoke when I put my foot into it. I scanned again and have a balance issue on cylinders 3 and 4. I don't want to replace the injectors if they are not bad. Please help me out here.
I'm wondering if the logic board on your ficm isn't going out. It would give you the code you have and cause the issue. Not always but normally I jester failure will happen to one side or the other. I have seen failure of each bank sometimes nit be the injectors but the fixm logic side. Do you have a friend that would let you try their ficm? Also check the wiring harness and make sure everything is plugged into the injectors and back of thr ficm has 3 plugs that can come loose
@@six0bros Actually I don't have the option of borrowing a ficm. Is there a way to bench test the ficm? I am really needing to get this truck up and running. I tore it down to the cover plates yesterday on both sides in anticipation of replacing injector 3 and 4 today. Couldn't get the injectors yesterday because of the holiday. To clarify, ever since I changed the IPR, it has not died, and once I changed the ICP, it has run really good, but just smokes like crazy. Everything I have read up on points to having an injector putting too much fuel in the cylinder. Is that not what you think? I had a diesel repair shop tell me that injector 3 was bad and the ICP needed replaced and then another mechanic (friend) who had a nicer scan tool than the shop tell me do the ICP first, which I did, then he rescanned and it showed 3 and 4 out of balance / contribution issues. I haven't opened the cover plates yet, but I was going to replace those injectors this evening. Thanks in advance for your help. Also, what is the little unit above the cover plate about where injector 5 is located that is on a coolant line and has a vaccum hooked to it? Mine appears to be or was leaking because it has white crusty material all around it and below it and I have no idea what that is but want to replace it while I have it sitting out in the open. Lastly, if I do open the cover plates, should I replace the stand pipe and dummy plugs if they are not the 12mm allen head? I don't want to mess with things that are not leaking at the moment, but I don't want to pass up something I should do while I am in there. Thanks a lot.
So the easy oart that vacuum piece when you turn on max ac it blocks coolant through that area to minimize heat exchange from the cold air going to your vents. So it is for your a/c when in max to work better. Next the one thing you said that tells me it's an injector and not the ficm is that it is running well. If it was fixm related most likely it would run really rough. So yes I will go back to saying it is a high probability it's your injectors. Also I would change you stand pipes and dummy plugs. If you can afford to I would just change them to prevent potential issues down the road, but as long as they are not physically damaged and they are already updated you should be good
@@six0bros It doesn't really seem to be wet with oil, but definitely black with soot. I did see a little bit of oil on the hot side CAC tube when I removed it, but not a bunch.
Hey guys, help I just a EGR delete on my 2003 F350 6.0 because I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust, that didn't help still getting white smoke. One of my friends said I need to replace injectors. What do think. The truck has 149000 miles on it.
Is it like this video ruclips.net/video/rBQyMrPH0ho/видео.html If so yes it is an injector. You will need to scan the codes to see what injector is down I have videos replacing them
@@michaelkautz8238 I run warren diesel premium injectors at the moment. I have 175/stock nozzle injectors at the moment. I have heard great things about river city diesel injectors, and holder diesel injectors.
I have a 03 f-250 6.0 with 187k miles and recently went to an auto part store they scanned it and they said injector 8 was bad and EGR but what do you guys recommend on doing? I’d want to do it but It looks a little hard
The main reason to relocate it is for ease of change. This is my brothers truck and he really likes the kit and idea for it. I personally do not like the idea much or at least I have not seen it done in such a way that I like it. The kit itself is very nice and has great high quality components. I just think it is not needed maintaining your cooling system is better and I have not had issues except when I did something dumb lol. So I would recommend just running the factory setup. Although it did make me think if they could run a second oil cooler that would be kinda cool.
As for the additional oil filter setups. I do not think they are bad I just do not think they are as great as people make them out to be. Changing oil every 5k miles I believe to be more important and running good oil like motorcraft or scheaffers and only with OEM oil filter and make sure you have the OEM oil filter cap
Hi I bought 2003 6.0 a month ago and since last week engine check light popped up in dash so I check with local Macanic he found code p2285. And truck also misfire at cold starts but once it’s fully warm no issues. Can you plz suggest what I need to do for that
So I believe you just need to do an icp sensor. Most likely it is leaking oil through the connector. Also a good cleaning of the pigtail off the wiring harness. I have never had to replace the actual pigtail but some have had to here is a video for removal on the 03s ruclips.net/video/x_HaxGlUwBA/видео.html
As for your other issue. Most likely stiction in the injector the only way to truly fix this is to replace the spool valves. However archoil will likely help a lot so here is another video I did on that. Again though archoil does not fix the problem simply helps it. ruclips.net/video/E_GNuyIb6_Y/видео.html
Jeff Anderson Dixie is back up and running Jared's truck will be about 3 weeks if I had to guess. I appreciate the input and we definitely hear ya! The channel was started to review how to make these trucks run with new diesels and has spiraled out of control since then. This winter we will get some great footage and next summer we will be running them down the track. So... agreed! the channel needs to expand. Keep any input you have coming, and Diesel on
+Jeff Anderson you'll have one one day. I always wanted one and was so happy when I bought this truck. (I own the white one) that said I also really enjoyed modding my gas pickup I own prior. What diesel do you want to buy when you're ready
+Jeff Anderson we need to work on the description of the sound but it is a great sound I agree man. We will definitely work on some hard work for the trucks
I cant remember if we knew it back then probably not, but we have since learned. I hope people have seen this comment so they know! sorry for the late response.
i have 2006 f350 super duty recently had check engine light come on , auto zone said code was fuel sender code ok , ill bide my time till i can get time to pull bed bolts to get to it ,recently replaced both batts , 850 cca ea. lights off for few days but then light back on , almost impossible to start in morn ,had checked again and through codes on all injectors circuit low , wtf ?
Here is the obd2 we use. There are better ones that are more expensive but this has worked well for us and it's super cheap. This is an affiliate link amzn.to/3lK9yij
although I like torque pro for its guages and graphing you can't send commands...i use the forscan app mostly but now n then I use carguage pro....forscan is a great app and is ford only and both Forscan and carguage you can send commands like buzz test....btw the blue elm327's=junk get a BAFX you'll never get another
@@six0bros the only thing I'm waiting for is someone to figure out how to be able to pull up cyinder contribution....so far it's the only thing I see holding back the elms and their apps
I would not run them very long like this. As little as possible honestly because it could cause catastrophic engine failure. So if able to I would stop driving it.
At 2:21 my truck is making the same sound. I think it's a bad fuel pump because after it started making that sound I got a hot no start, then a dies when warm, now if I can even get it started it runs rough until warm then just dies like you turned the key off. Does your truck still make that sound?
2007. Did you ever get that sound fixed and if so what did you do? Idk if its true or not but I think its mu fuel pump becuase I got a hot no start and then a dies when warm hot no start... dummy plugs/pipes are updated and truck is deleted.
iTzKevinFTW do you have a way to hook up to the rest port to check fuel pressure. Also if you haven't already unplug your icp and try to turn it on. I would get a gauge to read icp and ipr while cranking. You need like 500 psi of oil pressure to start the truck.
+arayray94 what questions would you like answered. We were just thinking we want to have some other experts on the channel so I just need to know where the interest is. Thanks for the input
+arayray94 yes it would be awesome to have that at our disposal. Diesel tech Ron has some videos out showing how to use it. I plan to look into cost out of curiosity but I imagine it will be too expensive for backyard wrenches unless you are making money.
Ultimately I'd like to be able to see what my injectors are running like (spot problem before failure) but cannot justify the cost like you said. I don't know if there are any alternatives that we can use.
we talk about the "buzz" test listening for the injectors to work, and help to rule out a compression issue in the truck. That was the point of this video
New to diesel I just bought a f250 at the auction ran it 132 miles runs pretty good just has a lil miss on it... it reves up sometimes on it's own and when I'm a 50mph it shakes like its hesitating please lmk what it can be thanks
Do you have anyway to monitor your truck. Check out my video on torque Pro. There are lots of options for monitoring your truck but you need something. So to help I need to know if you have any trouble codes?
6.0 Bros I’m having this same issue he is stating no codes and I have a act to monitor my truck. I also have a egr delete str8 pipe upgraded pipes and turbo upgrade. Truck starts to vibrate at 50mph and it takes a little while to start from cold start up. Any advice is appropriated thanks
So depending on which sct you have to monitor will depend if it will tell us what we need. Things I need to know are ficm main vintage should be at 48. There is also a ficm logic which should read at least 12 volts. But typically will read more between 13-14 depending on alternator health.
Also checking icp and ipr can help I would measure both of those at idle and WOT. So let me know when you get those numbers all for me and we can go from there
6.0 Bros this checks out
Please keep the vids coming. The 6.0 family needs these vids. Cummins and duramax have a million youtubers.
+Diesels R Life will do buddy as long as we are growing and people want to watch we are going to keep making the channel bigger and better. Let us know if you have any suggestions.
+Diesels R Life don't worry lots more 6.0 to come. I am sorry for the long wait on my truck but it will be worth it
INFAMOUS 6.0 ruclips.net/video/gApX-GPGfhw/видео.html
INFAMOUS 6.0 ruclips.net/video/PRYrT_-5g2Q/видео.html
I hope y’all know bill to💁🏻♂️
So many people forget a failing fuel pump cause injectors to go out prematurely as well... after nearly replacing all my injectors I still had problems and soon checked my fuel pressure which was a measly 25psi MAX. 45psi min required on these trucks.
This isbspot on minimum of 45 to not cause damage, and a max of 75psi. I have spoke to injector builders and the community and it is not advised to be over 75 as it can prematurely wear out o rings I was told.
@@six0bros Exactly!! I was so mad after spending a few grand on new injectors when the culprit was my fuel pump. Currently don’t have a 6.0 at the moment but ready to get another one! Had the blue spring, KC turbo 10 blade/61mm combo, Egr delete and some other goodies and I miss it!
I know. I have seen it a lot but people still don't replace their fuel pumps! Or insist it isn't the issue.
New sub, glad to see a 6.0 channel that people aren’t bashing.. Every third or so fill up I use some used engine oil out of my oil change about a quart and dump it in a full tank of fuel, this seemed to help with That dreaded Stiction.
Welcome to the channel. Since this video we have become fans of archoil seems to work really well.
6.0 Bros i used to use it as well, for my truck and where I live. For whatever reason good old used rotella t6 actually works the best for me anyways, even on a fresh set of injectors in the middle of winter here I get some stiction. I also have gone through a ficm with low voltage causing what seemed to be the same effects. Just an FYI I’m not sure if you’ve been through the trials of the truck yet. Also need some of them stickers!
Atleast its on bank 2,which is the easier side...biggest recommendation I have,if you have to mess with bank 2(driver side,left side,whatever..lol) do yourself a favor and replace the de-gas bottle supply hoses and always replace the bottle cap....those "Y" fittings where the supply hoses join,always love to break at that plastic fitting......and always use caution when un-clipping the FICM harnesses, as those clips love to break,so unless you wanna have a bunch of zip ties holding the connectors,use caution and patience while disconnecting them...they are a weather pack style,so they have to be all seated all the way in or there's a possibility one pin won't make contact, in turn giving a false positive for said,dead cylinder(if you have a miss,always check ficm connections first..seen it happen several times,where for example #3 will show short high to low and it's just because of a loose harness..in this case,this injector is shot,due to the white smoke,with either a cracked nozzle or hung cartridge, which can actually hydro lock the engine due to the metering needle basically being useless at that point,or best case,a bad o-ring for the fuel gallery...
.if it was just the coil on the injector, It'll just miss,without any smoke......and just a FYI for other independent techs,that are learning about the 6.0, that may be reading this,Ford has now discontinued production of the Fuel Injector harness........Also, 6.0 Bros..im assuming thats an 04' cause it's using the boost butterfly,but If you wanna keep that code from coming back,reinstall the actuator,but leave the butterfly off,of coarse...that should prevent the code from returning so you can get rid of that p1000...while p1000 is present,these engines won't get there best economy, cause they're still in the "re-learn" process..(or,you can change the value with ForScan,or tune,or even use an 05' pcm which doesn't use the butterfly, even though the plug is still there on the 05-07's)...and if you need the procedure to get rid of the drive cycle incomplete code(p1000),Let me know and I'll send you the procedure...its very easy...takes about 45mins of driving in various conditions......great vid though guys 👍....A lot of people talk shit about the 6.0,but they're actually a great engine once they're bulletproofed
I have found the main causes of injector failure on the 6.0 Powerstroke are:
The Most Common of the reasons is running the engine with worn out or contaminated engine oil "HEUI" Remember the Injectors are also controlled by oil pressure
Followed by
Wiring Harness Chaffing or worn end connectors
Low Voltage "cranking engine for an extended period with under 12v in batts"
Poor or dirty Ground contact points
Weak or Discharging Alternator
Oh FYI I own 4, And each one have taught me a lot!!!!
Do you use any oil a fuel treatment I've been using Hotshot since I bought my 6.0 had it 2 years now.
I run archoil in all my oil changes.
@@six0bros Really? Please explain how if could thank you.
Hello .my 04 f 350 6.0 is mixin fuel and engine oli,do you have and idea how to fix it?
@@yonatamendoza7010Most probable cause is from Worn injector Cups or Injector O rings I doubt that to be the issue.
Man that is a clean engine bay.
He spent some time cleaning that up. Then I drove it and it still looked good
@@six0bros what do you guys use to clean it?
I think my brother used what you would to clean your dash. Nothing fancy it took some maintenance to keep it that clean
Guys with 6.7's want to take off those gaudy badges, and guys with 7.3s, and 6.0s want to add them. A never ending circle.
Lol the circle of life
@@six0bros I'm still waiting to see a guy with a 6.4, that has all of the emblems. I know one day it will happen.
Lmao let's hope so hahaha
I have a 2003 f250 with an 05 engine in it and when I start the truck it doesn't really smoke maybe a tiny haze but as soon as the turbo kicks in it starts smoking white bluish smoke bad and when I drive the truck after about 10 mins when it's up to temperature it goes away just blows a little haze if I really step on it once I turn it off let it sit and cool all the way cold and re start it later it's the same thing what can that be truck drives excellent no shakes or nothing
Any oil in your exhaust pipe?
Blue tint is almost always a sign of oil burning, Most likely your turbo seals are worn out. Unbolt the exhaust pipe on the pass side rear of the turbo and check for oil buildup, its only 1 clamp. If there is a lot of buildup remove the turbo and rebuild it, its very cost effective to rebuild it yourself (about 20% the cost of a reman turbo). Just remember the Impeller wheel is LH thread.
Yes please make more 6.0 videos just got me one and I'm new to owning one. Right now the one I got has already been bulletproofed so I'm trying to learn what else I can do for it. Other then it and the transmission everything else is stock. Never had a programmer on it either.
Feel free to ask any questions on any video or even request a video topic and I would be happy to make one.
@@six0bros I really do appreciate it. Your videos will help me alot.
White smoke coming out not when engine is cold or idle, what can be the issue? 6.4 f250 2008 130k miles
Are you losing coolant
Hey what wheel and tire size is on that truck? im looking for a similar setup. are they the stock wheels? 16", or 17"?
They were 16x10s those wheels are gone now but 16x10 wrapped in I believe basically a 35
What injectors are you running?
When this video was made these are just stock injectors on my current build I have 175/stock injectors
The intro!!!! Yes!! Love it
Lol thanks man we try to have a little fun
A little fun. It’s 6.0 I have a 6.0 and I treat it like a 6.4. So only a little fun. To much always gets you in trouble 😂
I might have to much fun lol
My brother putgas in my new 6.0 all new injectors plus new icp ipr and the list goes on relationship hasgone south too becouse of it
I cannot remember if I responded to this or not, but I hope things have improved and you guys are working that out. I can say the gas should not have taken out more than maybe the injectors and fuel pump, granted that is still very expensive.
Taking out the butterfly in the intake how come?
He took it out just because it isn't used. In original tuning I believe it was used to aid in cold weather warming up the engine, but it was disabled in later programming to my knowledge.
Can the injector buzz healthy but not fire while running?I'm getting white smoke and #3 cylinder missing.i unplugged all injectors except one and they sound good and healthy.im down to checking compression or a bad injector I believe.
Could also be the ficm logic side if compression is good. Any recent work on the truck? Does it idle smooth still? Or is it rough
@@six0bros I found the problem.after studs were installed by another shop,I'm guessing the rocker arms were never re torqued.the rocker was broke and every pedestal was loose
Did you call the shop to ask about this because that's a big mess up
@@six0bros no it seemed like low compression.but with 90k Miles and one owner, I hoped that wasn't the issue.but I don't know if the bulletproof stud upgrade says to torque the 10mm rocker bolts,but all I can figure is the studs clamp so much tighter that the bolts were then loose.it made it about 3000 miles since the head studs were installed.and it kicked the valve/rocker bridge.bith sides every bolt was lose or hand tight.
I got a 6.0 we just deleted and replaced injector 2 as it was pretty much dead. After replacing it we contribution tested it and cylinder 2 was good but it started missing again and now claiming 1 and 8 are dead. Truck doesn’t smoke whatsoever just misses and is extremely sluggish
Update: replaced Injector 4 final analysis was it was dead. Truck ran good for about a day say over the weekend tried to start it Monday morning and only got 72 psi of fuel rail pressure vs the 1100 or so it demands. Pretty sure HPOP went out
What year truck do you have, and how many miles are on it?
6.0 Bros 03 258k was an old work truck still had Egr until i got to it
So I just bought a 04 6.0 and I noticed it had that exact coolant filter too what’s the point of that never seen that before. Also it doesn’t ever get to proper temp I wanna be able to use my heater soon but where should I start to get to regular temperature?
People think a coolant filter will catch anything that will clog the oil cooler. It won't. I run one too though. As for coolant temp not getting up the thermostat probably just failed. The spring looses tension over time thats all. Here is an affiliate link to a Motorcraft one.
amzn.to/3mdVhed
I have a 2005 f350 dully it was running good and the next day I try to start it but it started ruff and I took it to the shop and they told me that 2 injectors was bad on each bank and I don’t no nobody that can work on it I was goin to change all the injectors my self any recommendation or tips to try to find the problem like you videos thanks
Is your truck blowing white smoke? I think your problem may actually be on the logic side of your ficm
Typically when 2 injectors on each bank go bad at the same time and suddenly it is the logic side if the ficm. What codes are they saying as well
Did you have a check engine light on when you ran the codes or could there be codes with no check engine light on
No check engine light but if you read the codes regardless the injector code came up
@@six0bros thank you because I don’t have a check engine light but I think an injector is going bad. I’m going to put it on a code reader tonight. Btw this video really helps and you guys replying to me helps even more thank you so much
No problem man I try really hard to answer any questions I can
use archoil ar9100 in your oil before replacing injectors
+Brad Hagen I do plan to use ar9100 moving forward but I didn't think it was going to revive the current injector failure. I have heard some great things in resolving stiction maybe it would have but we did go and replace it
What is the T in the lil hose going from degas to radiator with the blue hose going to something on the passenger side, also what year is your truck? Mine is an 05 F450 6.0 liter, and when doing the cylinder contribution test, 1,3,and 5 where negative numbers, indicating a misfire at idle from my snap on verus pro. I accelerate to about 1800 rpm for about a minute and all numbers from both banks are all roughly zero with the driverside bank 2,4,6,8 are zero to positive 5, and passenger side bank 1,3,5,7 are negative 5 to zero. Once I let off rpm comes back to about 680 - 700 and now 1,3,5 and 7 are all negative 19 to 40 and driverside are all positive numbers.
The ficm is 48V, and the 2 other ficm data pids are approx battery voltage. Now I just got this truck and know little about it, it has 233k miles, and 8k engine hours, not sure if it is stock engine, this is a tow truck. I have no power under load, whether I put it into gear it falls on its face and almost dies. If I turn pto on its fine until I toggle one of the switches for the boom, and again it falls on its face or kills the truck. If I put it in neutral or park I can rev it up some but can tell it's running crappy and smoothes out some while accelerating. I'm just wandering if it is in the fuel pressure for it to be just that bank of injectors or?!?!
the t is to a bypass filter for coolant. sounds like you need to replace injectors but I would double check fuel pressure first, also your ipr and icp as well.
Asked a lot of question lately but have an issue that maybe you could answer better than the forums. When the truck is cold(er) it was a stutter right at 1800 to 2200 rpms really bad like a pop out of the exhaust. But when the oil temp hit about 185 to 190 it goes away entirely and runs just like it should. Is this a bad stiction or a bad injector? Don’t have any cold starting issues that seem to be worse than a normal diesel cold start
Don't worry about asking questions that is what this channel is here for man, to help people. Now do you have a code reader? If so any codes coming up? The first thing I would check is all electrical connections. I would really focus on the ficm harness as well. I would press on the connections in the back of the ficm there are 3 of them, and then I would check each individual injector too. After that check the main wiring harness and just make sure everything is good there too
There are no codes other than icp but that’s because it is unplugged since truck will not start with it. I know the ficm harness is not the most secure and I should probably replace it. I’ve been thinking that since I had the ficm 58v and reflowed power supply it stopped doing that for a couple days then came back
So if the truck went start with the icp plugged in then it is bad and I would replace it. Next I would get a new Ford ficm harness. It sounds like that may be your problem.
I know that the icp is bad just need the extra cash first and I will definitely try the new harness. Thanks for the replies
Anytime. Check out xtremediesel snd use code diesel10
tell me.The voltage on the module is 48.5, on an idle engine, and the injectors are not tested!
48.5 is a perfect voltage. Not sure what to tell? Do you have a question I'm happy to help
@@six0bros Good afternoon.The FICM unit outputs 48.5 on the ignition turned on, 49.3 on the wound up.
Can you tell me where to dig further?The injectors do not crack when the ignition is turned on.
@@six0bros Maybe this is the upper large board that is in this ficm module?
@@six0bros Can you make a video?We don't have a Ford diagnostician.
Well let's start with what is your truck doing? Is it smoking a lot? If so is it still idle very smooth or is it really rough?
This was like watching the Kardashians almost
Lol not the worst insult someone has tried but definitely not the best either.
hi 6.0 bros i have a 2005 ford f_250 6.0 and when driving down road at about 55 to 60 speed my truck starts shacking and sounds and feels like it wants to loose power so i slam on the fuel and drive it like i stole it and runs better then slow down lower rpms and it starts all over again ?
have you checked your boost and back pressure to see how they are. also any readings on your ficm, icp, and ipr?
I changed my icp plug and blue spring and new sending unit and screen but no I haven’t checked that yet
The other thing I would double check is drivetrain parts as well as suspension. So ball joints wheel bearings u joints, drive shaft u joints. If you have the carrier bearing in yiu ipr driveshaft double check those as well.
Thank you for your advice do you happen to have a email address I could send you information on my truck are a phone number
You can email at 6.0hbros@gmail.com or on Instagram at 6.0hbros
i know this is an old video but, my truck starts no problem but the truck misses it doesnt matter if its cold or i let it warm up. cranks evenly so i dont think it is a motor problem. buzz test sounds uneven. i assume that means an injector is bad? truck went from great to one morning missing. its so bad i cant drive it the truck will die when trying to move. little to no smoke.
Have you checked rocker arms? Is it pushing air back out of the air intake?
@@six0bros it's not pushing any air that I can feel, all the rocker arms got new plastic clip things when I studded the truck about 2 months ago. I did start it today and used forscan to see what was happening. 6&8 have a weak buzz when doing the buzz test individually. And the truck smoked pretty good this time around.
I misread your first post. I thought you said it didnt crank evenly I am very sorry about that. With what you have said I am led to believe you do have an injector issue. What are your exact codes?
@@six0bros that's the thing it isn't throwing any codes atleast none my scanner can grab. I have a glow plug open circuit code but I've had that for months.
@@EditsWithBlur can you get me the following items while cranking and for what ever brief time the truck runs. Ficm sync, ficm main power, icp measured in volts, ipr% cam sync
So I bought a 03’ 6.0 and injector 8 has no contribution and 1,3,7 are going out and the truck when it cranks has the consistency of yours. With knowing about the injectors does that mean I will probably need a engine rebuild or just the injectors sense there is consistency and lack of compression. And should I expect a engine rebuild soon
dudes hard on injectors
Why do you say that?
@@six0bros it was a joke. no meaning. just that his truck had a misfire then borrowed yours and it developed one
@@nathonsmithson3024 lol I'm the dude that is hard on them haha. Just making sure I wasnt doing something dumb. For a second I was like o crap am I messing something up lol
Hey I am brand new to 6.0 bros and I need some help. I have a 03 6.0 with 245K miles. Truck randomly died and then would start back up and run fine, check engine light came on. Code was P2623 - Injector control pressure regulator circuit / open. All the research I could do led me to the IPR. I eventually changed it and foolishly did not change the ICP which was right next to the IPR on the back of the motor. The truck ran fine for a few days and then would get sluggish once it warmed and had little to no power. I had it scanned and they said that the ICP was showing strange voltage and acting weird and that cylinder 3 had low contribution. I changed the ICP, rescanned and the cylinders seemed ok and the truck ran amazing for a few days. Now it is smoking like crazy. Smokes on idle (lighter smoke) and blows darker smoke when I put my foot into it. I scanned again and have a balance issue on cylinders 3 and 4. I don't want to replace the injectors if they are not bad. Please help me out here.
I'm wondering if the logic board on your ficm isn't going out. It would give you the code you have and cause the issue. Not always but normally I jester failure will happen to one side or the other. I have seen failure of each bank sometimes nit be the injectors but the fixm logic side. Do you have a friend that would let you try their ficm? Also check the wiring harness and make sure everything is plugged into the injectors and back of thr ficm has 3 plugs that can come loose
@@six0bros Actually I don't have the option of borrowing a ficm. Is there a way to bench test the ficm? I am really needing to get this truck up and running. I tore it down to the cover plates yesterday on both sides in anticipation of replacing injector 3 and 4 today. Couldn't get the injectors yesterday because of the holiday. To clarify, ever since I changed the IPR, it has not died, and once I changed the ICP, it has run really good, but just smokes like crazy. Everything I have read up on points to having an injector putting too much fuel in the cylinder. Is that not what you think? I had a diesel repair shop tell me that injector 3 was bad and the ICP needed replaced and then another mechanic (friend) who had a nicer scan tool than the shop tell me do the ICP first, which I did, then he rescanned and it showed 3 and 4 out of balance / contribution issues. I haven't opened the cover plates yet, but I was going to replace those injectors this evening. Thanks in advance for your help. Also, what is the little unit above the cover plate about where injector 5 is located that is on a coolant line and has a vaccum hooked to it? Mine appears to be or was leaking because it has white crusty material all around it and below it and I have no idea what that is but want to replace it while I have it sitting out in the open.
Lastly, if I do open the cover plates, should I replace the stand pipe and dummy plugs if they are not the 12mm allen head? I don't want to mess with things that are not leaking at the moment, but I don't want to pass up something I should do while I am in there. Thanks a lot.
So the easy oart that vacuum piece when you turn on max ac it blocks coolant through that area to minimize heat exchange from the cold air going to your vents. So it is for your a/c when in max to work better. Next the one thing you said that tells me it's an injector and not the ficm is that it is running well. If it was fixm related most likely it would run really rough. So yes I will go back to saying it is a high probability it's your injectors. Also I would change you stand pipes and dummy plugs. If you can afford to I would just change them to prevent potential issues down the road, but as long as they are not physically damaged and they are already updated you should be good
One other thing is your exhaust tailpipe wet with oil?
@@six0bros It doesn't really seem to be wet with oil, but definitely black with soot. I did see a little bit of oil on the hot side CAC tube when I removed it, but not a bunch.
Hey guys, help I just a EGR delete on my 2003 F350 6.0 because I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust, that didn't help still getting white smoke. One of my friends said I need to replace injectors. What do think. The truck has 149000 miles on it.
Is it like this video ruclips.net/video/rBQyMrPH0ho/видео.html
If so yes it is an injector. You will need to scan the codes to see what injector is down I have videos replacing them
@@six0bros yes it's like that and the smoke has diesel odor
I have been looking at injectors on line, is there one better than the other.
@@michaelkautz8238 I run warren diesel premium injectors at the moment. I have 175/stock nozzle injectors at the moment. I have heard great things about river city diesel injectors, and holder diesel injectors.
I have a 03 f-250 6.0 with 187k miles and recently went to an auto part store they scanned it and they said injector 8 was bad and EGR but what do you guys recommend on doing? I’d want to do it but It looks a little hard
What is your actual code and your symptoms? What did they say was wrong to with egr? The cooler or was it the valve ?
6.0 Bros p006A manifold absolute pressure
1. P0283 cylinder 8 injector circuit high
2. P0401 EGR flow insufficient detected
3. P0404 EGR Control circuit range/performance
4. P0405 EGR Sensor A circuit low
Those 4 problems are the ones I’m concerned about
What is the black holes line over the whole cold side pipe/alternator?
That is part of the bulletproof diesel oil cooler relocation kit. Basically it moves the oil cooler to beside the batter
6.0 Bros what’s the point of relocating it isn’t a second oil filter kit better am new to this .?
The main reason to relocate it is for ease of change. This is my brothers truck and he really likes the kit and idea for it. I personally do not like the idea much or at least I have not seen it done in such a way that I like it. The kit itself is very nice and has great high quality components. I just think it is not needed maintaining your cooling system is better and I have not had issues except when I did something dumb lol. So I would recommend just running the factory setup. Although it did make me think if they could run a second oil cooler that would be kinda cool.
As for the additional oil filter setups. I do not think they are bad I just do not think they are as great as people make them out to be. Changing oil every 5k miles I believe to be more important and running good oil like motorcraft or scheaffers and only with OEM oil filter and make sure you have the OEM oil filter cap
Hi I bought 2003 6.0 a month ago and since last week engine check light popped up in dash so I check with local Macanic he found code p2285. And truck also misfire at cold starts but once it’s fully warm no issues.
Can you plz suggest what I need to do for that
So I believe you just need to do an icp sensor. Most likely it is leaking oil through the connector. Also a good cleaning of the pigtail off the wiring harness. I have never had to replace the actual pigtail but some have had to here is a video for removal on the 03s ruclips.net/video/x_HaxGlUwBA/видео.html
As for your other issue. Most likely stiction in the injector the only way to truly fix this is to replace the spool valves. However archoil will likely help a lot so here is another video I did on that. Again though archoil does not fix the problem simply helps it. ruclips.net/video/E_GNuyIb6_Y/видео.html
Do they have one for iOS
Forescan should be fire ios
This is a cool channel guys but we need to see more of these trucks running HARD when its got new injector of corse
Jeff Anderson Dixie is back up and running Jared's truck will be about 3 weeks if I had to guess. I appreciate the input and we definitely hear ya! The channel was started to review how to make these trucks run with new diesels and has spiraled out of control since then. This winter we will get some great footage and next summer we will be running them down the track. So... agreed! the channel needs to expand. Keep any input you have coming, and Diesel on
6.0 Bros hell yea man sounds good, i hope to someday own a diesel lol for now my 5.3 gets me there
+Jeff Anderson you'll have one one day. I always wanted one and was so happy when I bought this truck. (I own the white one) that said I also really enjoyed modding my gas pickup I own prior. What diesel do you want to buy when you're ready
6.0 Bros for sure a 6.0, just love the sound they make... like chewbacka getting kicked in the nuts
+Jeff Anderson we need to work on the description of the sound but it is a great sound I agree man. We will definitely work on some hard work for the trucks
York pa by chance?
Not to far from york. In Lancaster area
That loud noice is your vacuum pump....
I cant remember if we knew it back then probably not, but we have since learned. I hope people have seen this comment so they know! sorry for the late response.
i have 2006 f350 super duty recently had check engine light come on , auto zone said code was fuel sender code ok , ill bide my time till i can get time to pull bed bolts to get to it ,recently replaced both batts , 850 cca ea. lights off for few days but then light back on , almost impossible to start in morn ,had checked again and through codes on all injectors circuit low , wtf ?
I would check ficm voltage and battery voltage while cranking
Anyone know where I can buy this OBD scanner
Here is the obd2 we use. There are better ones that are more expensive but this has worked well for us and it's super cheap. This is an affiliate link
amzn.to/3lK9yij
Jarred would be fixing my truck🤣
It happens lol
although I like torque pro for its guages and graphing you can't send commands...i use the forscan app mostly but now n then I use carguage pro....forscan is a great app and is ford only and both Forscan and carguage you can send commands like buzz test....btw the blue elm327's=junk get a BAFX you'll never get another
Planning on doing some reviews on apps and adaptors this year. I have been messing with forescan great app really enjoying it
@@six0bros the only thing I'm waiting for is someone to figure out how to be able to pull up cyinder contribution....so far it's the only thing I see holding back the elms and their apps
I know it drives me nuts lol. I am looking into finding the cheapest way to monitor that however I haven't found a cheap way to do it.
@@six0bros I work on 6 oh's every day and so far it hasn't been a major issue but it would be nice
You said smoking like a pig bc the injector how long can you run it like that
I would not run them very long like this. As little as possible honestly because it could cause catastrophic engine failure. So if able to I would stop driving it.
At 2:21 my truck is making the same sound. I think it's a bad fuel pump because after it started making that sound I got a hot no start, then a dies when warm, now if I can even get it started it runs rough until warm then just dies like you turned the key off. Does your truck still make that sound?
What year is your truck. Does it start when cold?
iTzKevinFTW try stand pipes and dummy tubes
2007. Did you ever get that sound fixed and if so what did you do? Idk if its true or not but I think its mu fuel pump becuase I got a hot no start and then a dies when warm hot no start... dummy plugs/pipes are updated and truck is deleted.
iTzKevinFTW has your fuel pp been getting louder lately?
iTzKevinFTW do you have a way to hook up to the rest port to check fuel pressure. Also if you haven't already unplug your icp and try to turn it on. I would get a gauge to read icp and ipr while cranking. You need like 500 psi of oil pressure to start the truck.
You guys should do a video showing off the Ford IDS program if you can find someone that will let you use it!
+arayray94 are you talking about auto ingenuity
I believe you can do the same injector balance test on autoenginuity
+arayray94 what questions would you like answered. We were just thinking we want to have some other experts on the channel so I just need to know where the interest is. Thanks for the input
+arayray94 yes it would be awesome to have that at our disposal. Diesel tech Ron has some videos out showing how to use it. I plan to look into cost out of curiosity but I imagine it will be too expensive for backyard wrenches unless you are making money.
Ultimately I'd like to be able to see what my injectors are running like (spot problem before failure) but cannot justify the cost like you said. I don't know if there are any alternatives that we can use.
bright stars
Im not sure if you are serious or not lol
Where did you get your blue turbo tubing ?
The intake elbow is from ebay.
Ok I thought it was from a diesel company
You won’t happen to know the part number for that piece from eBay?
No but let me see if I can find it
W
I'll take it lol. Is the w for win?
Bad Injectors
yup. replaced one injector no further issues.
Shade tree 🌳
??
Whatsup guys?!?
+OCD Garage Eagles won the super bowl... I don't know what's up and what's down
6.0 Bros lol I hear ya!
🤣🤣🤣SURPRISE 👍🇺🇸👊
waste time for
lol how so
;
Huge waste of time. Don’t title bad injector test when your not doing any injector testing.
we talk about the "buzz" test listening for the injectors to work, and help to rule out a compression issue in the truck. That was the point of this video