In the summer, I carry an Opinel 7. Primarily because I wear linen pants and shorts and a pocket clip is no bueno. Every summer I am shocked at how slicey Opinels are. They are so light. So slicey. So inexpensive. Such a goood knife.
@@charlesjames5486 -- I use mine all the time. It's fine. I don't get it wet -- I use it in the house for a million different things. I own much more expensive knives, but I don't own any that I love more. Never needs sharpening. Regular stropping with compound keeps it shaving sharp.
@the_knife_degenerate no it was a coustom through the benchmade coustom knife builder with the carbon scales and orange hardware actually. But I think I'm gonna save up and get the carbon with blue hardware to give myself something fresh but familiar
Hey man I completely understand your pain. I lost my collection of knives about 15 years ago including my very first knife I received from a collector when I was 8 years old. Then a few years later a house fire got my restart collection. But a knife collection starts with 1 knife friend. If I could recommend just 1 to start with, I highly recommend an Expat Medellin if you can find one. Expat is a sub company of Esee's and they have an unquestioned lifetime warranty. And those guys truly mean it. Good luck!
I think it's a great idea. Even this knife does not have to be expensive, even the Opinel shown, it is always a nice accent and a gift at the beginning of a new adventure.
I like the idea, they certainly have enough of them. It would be epic if they sent him an m390 bugout so it would be better than his best knife I bet they could get some publicity from that and people who saw it would be more likely to want to buy from them
They're not going to do that they'd rather him go pay for it on their site all of these videos are just them trying to sell the most expensive knives they can
I also lost 15 years ago nearly 90% of a nice knife collection I started in 1985. I still really miss some pieces, of course. One issue that makes it even worse is that some brands do not exist anymore or are sadly very far away from their golden era that had back them (for example Puma among many others) The only good thing is that I have learnt to buy more useable items. Bon courage man
I've mentioned to Seth V that these two need their own channel, so they can speak freely without their masters of KnifeCenter looking over their shoulders.
Sorry for your lost..how devastating.. maybe consider getting a special knife that you always wanted and only carry that for awhile..having it with you all the time may help with the losses and catch the spark again? Anyway hoping you find your knife and build back soon⚔️
Sharpest I've ever been able to get was on a 14c28n kitchen knife. The ht was low 60's, pretty thin bte, and it super easily takes an unbelievably keen edge. Sharpest I've gotten a pocket knife was some spyderco m4.
If I had restart my collection I would go for knives with a really interesting history like the Douk Douk or the Black Cat Mercator. They work fine and tell an amazing story. I'd also get away from the newest super steel upgrade hype and collect traditional knives. Buy knives that are easy to sharpen. As for locking folders I'd go for the classics Delica, Chaparral, Griptilian, 940 etc These knives are still the best. Budget knives are so good these days (Kizer, Civivi), there is no need to waste money on high end stuff.
K55Ks are very brittle. They do take a wicked edge though. I used to get them at a hardware store for two bucks and change. But I'd always breaks the tips off of them.
MORA is definitely a sound choice for the kayak fishing. I don't do so much fishing from my yak so I don't need to worry about guts, and I keep that floating MORA on my PFD when I go out.
I own that opinal blade that are made in France and at first I wasn't sure about it....but I tell you it's an amazing knife super frickin sharp and stays sharp quite some time... I recommend the knife and for the price you can't beat it.... I personally think the knife is sold way to low but not complaining either cause I've got a funny feeling those prices ain't going to last long
For fishing I think the best option is the Victorinox paring style knife. you can usually find them at bait and tackle shop. There are proprietary sheathes you can buy. I think Grundens still makes one. I've used them for many years as a commercial fisherman. They are cheep and wicked sharp out of the box.
I carry a stainless Opinel #7 while backpacking. Can't beat the performance for things like food preparation and light utility tasks for the weight or the price!
Hi DCA and crew ... what knife would you reckomend for EDC/mid to hard use. 1 hand opening and 2. finger safe.3 with a decent amout of edge retntion and corrosion resistence . Has to be avlible in the UK thank you in advance. Keep up the good work
Jed: Start practical then move to collection when you feel like! David had some SOLID sage advice. That kershaw is good, but also I'd recommend the CJRB Hecate which is like a bugout lite
I just picked one up. similar feeling but the hole isnt really suited to thumb flicking. Spydie flicks perfectly but the shape and placement of the hole means no thumb flick for me. Still for the money its 90% a bugout if you don’t mind the steel having lower edge retention
Hi DCA, I’m looking for a good front flipper and reverse flicker for my next purchase under $75. I have the Sencut Brontë in mind, do you have other recommendations? Thanks!
I used to get frustrates with hard steel, it didn't seem to sharpen is well as softer steel. Recently I tried bumping the angle up higher, and it made a difference.
when DCA pulled out the bestech swordfish and said this is named after where it goes, I thought he would bring up that it's a big easy knife you might take with you to the big easy (New Orleans).
As to the question regarding different steels holding an edge at the same hardness... the molecular structure of the steel and the size and type of carbides in the steel will determine which steel holds an edge longer as much as the hardness. As to the question of what kind of steel to use in making a kitchen knife at home D2 is a good choice. It's literally an air hardening steel with two sweet spots in the tempering process. It was literally invented for tool makers in smaller shops to make dies out of. As a die steel, it will hold a pretty good edge and rust al little more slowly than a 10 series steel. It will be a little harder to keep sharp but It will do pretty OK on a kitchen knife steel without having to strop it.
In sharpness terms I find the low alloy, cleaner PM steels get sharper. The hardness does not really matter as I've gotten a tin can steel lid shaving sharp with ease. It won't hold the edge but it will be razor sharp. High end steel, high wear steels fail in sharpness because they have high hardness carbides in the mix which means you actually have more of a micro serrated edge. So in summary, a steel like AEB-L or stainless razor blade grade steel, or 1065-1075 will be best.
Hello DCA! I love your work. Like Seth, I like to use my folding knives for food prep. I was convinced to buy the Civivi Vision FG. But I heard that Kizer came out with a model called the Momo which also seems to me to be suitable for such a task. Could you give me your opinion about both knives. Thanks!
Spyderco Waterway (fixed) or Siren (folder) were designed by Lance Clinton who is a professional ocean kayak fisherman. I can say from personal ownership that the Siren makes a fantastic EDC folder as well 😊😊
For an ideal dive knife (in this case Scuba diving), a flat point fixed blade is my preferred knife. I like the Benchmade 112 but I would love to see it in LC200N steel.
Working in law enforcement I normally pack a medium to large sized folder like the Benchmade Adamas as a backup weapon and utility blade. I would love to pack this knife off duty as well but I find myself in need of a thin, small blade for carving, opening boxes etc. Is there a somewhat tactical knife with a small, thin secondary blade made for everyday tasks?
Great title. The intro picture probably answers the question. Maybe Swiss Army is a contender. It's pretty logical really. Simple steel tends to sharpen to a thinner edge. I always wonder about these steel debates. I think it is much easier to cut and re-sharpen as you go then to have edge retention. Plus Simple Steels get really really sharp. So why is edge retention so valued? Ohh... 440A also great sharpness.
"Dive knife" I suggest something wide in the blade. Borka does some cool stuff. SBD works both ways. SB1 works one way. On a budget you could go with a smatchet, hack saw it off to a length you will carry, obviously resharpen your new profile. Old hickory, and condor make great examples of value priced knives that can fill many roles. Things like riggers/athletic tape, paracord do a great job securing your grip, and your sheath. Completely innocuous and often over looked, the velcro "gear wrap" makes a wonderful loop that is hook on one side loop on the other. Good for belts and bag interiors.
KniFAQ question! I am looking for a pocket knife to fit a handmade leather wallet with a built in sheath that would fit a Benchmade Proper Mini Bugout or a Kershaw Leek. Would you have recommendations within a more traditional style but are as slim as the above?
Ive noticed certain steels lose their sharp edge while simply sitting unused in a drawer. I've tried to research it a bit and have found oxidation can play a part, so I put a light gun oil on the edge, which helped, but I still find that shaving-sharp blades are butter knife dull after a year or so of sitting, while other steels dont do this at all. Another factor is "molecular migration" kind of like water surface tension, sharp edges want to pull back in away from singleness, favoring more crystal embedment. Have you noticed this phenomena?
Send the second question to Dr. Larrin Thomas, the knife steel nerd. My experience with CPM S30V (most common across brands.) Brand 'B' vs Brand 'S'. 'B' holds the edge longer but more likely to micro-chip, 'S' does not hold the edge as long but rolls rather than micro-chipping. That is subjective and others experience can and will vary.
I really enjoy your knowledge and opinions on knives, especially the reverse tantos. 😂 Knife Center has some terrific exclusives More cool impractical fixed blades please including daggers
I do fresh water kayaking on mostly smooth water. But it’s miles from any people. I carry a falkniven f1 in vg10 steel in its kydex sheath. Don’t have to worry as much about rust. Lightweight. Can take a beating. And still do everything needed of it.
As a knifemaker, a harder steel is going to take a finer, longer lasting edge, however it will also more easily get chipped. As an extreme example, try getting a razor edge on a butter knife. On the other hand, a traditional katana has a hardness around 60 and is famous for being incredibly sharp.
On your knives of the week, you displayed a new fixed blade it was about a 5” knife with a green micarta handle. One notable thing was that it had a slimmer handle, yet, as you said, “It nonetheless fills my hand; it feels good.” What knife could that be? (Heck with the needle in a haystack, this is a knife in a knife warehouse!)
I've tried all kinds of exotic EDC pocket knives over the years but I've had a cheap-and-cheerful carbon steel Opinel #8 in my pocket for the last five. It takes a wicked edge, comes back from a bit blunt in ten minutes and is just a delight to own. I also have one of their fancy stainless models with an ebony handle but it's not quite as good. Sharpens and holds an edge as well as it should but it lacks that carbon steel feel, that evil sharp thing.
Good morning from the UK. I'm a chef, my kitchen EDC consists of a Parker Jotter and an Opinel #8 or sometimes a Victorinox Climber. I'm looking for a slightly more robust pocket folder for the kitchen, $50 or less, maybe something like a Boker Atlas or Ontario Camp Plus for packets and light prep work, what would you suggest for a chef?
5:05 - Im a little bit iffy on this but afaik, perceived sharpness is a function of blade geometry, edge angle and scratch pattern. Hardness, structure and carbides should only affect toughness and edge retention. If I remember correctly, you can technically sharpen a steel with higher ductility to a finer point than a harder steel, because the harder steel's apex will start crumbling under itself at some point during sharpening and the more ductile steel will "cling on" a bit more and let itself be shaped that way. Downside ofc being that the edge wont last for more than a cut or two which would (imo) be a very disappointing knife. But hey, correct me if im wrong
Hey DCA, love your videos. I appreciate your no nonsense, and clear opinions. I am going you will talk to manufactures who make ambidextrous lock knives; but then refuse to make them Left Handed friendly. You always bring it up in your reviews; but I notice more and more Ambi knives coming only set up for RH. I find that kind of thing truly ridiculous… thanks, Proud Lefty [ps there are more of us every day]
On a recent episode you were talking about which knife you would recommend to anyone and it made me curious. what is the cheapest folding knife, other than an Opinel or Swiss Army, you would feel comfortable recommending to a first time, right handed buyer who just wants something for the usual everyday tasks?
Hey DCA! Question for future FAQ. What are your favourite new smaller makers that knife center has taken on recently?? Love my spyderco, we, ZT etc, but curious on looking into some smaller makers! Perhaps a list of 3-5 ranging from 100-500? Thanks meng!
Hello DCA! Thanks for another informative video! I just ordered a Spyderco Para 3 with Maxamet blade steel from you guys! I saw on your site that corrosion is something that needs to be prevented. So, how do I prevent it lol? Is there a special chemical, or should I use my camellia oil or what? I would rather get use a great product instead of a shortcut. Thanks!
I love mineral oil personally, but Sentry Solutions Tuf Cloth is a great option that doesn't leave any residue. Check it out here: www.knifecenter.com/brand/13/Sentry-Solutions
Hey Jed...check out the Freek and the Mini Freek. I absolutely love my Mini Freek with G10 scales and CPM M4 blade...it's pretty sweet. Good luck with your home replacement...I'm going through the very same thing and it's not easy.
Mr DCA and Thomas - thanks for all the great knife videos. I have been looking for a boot knife (of which there are plenty) but everything is focused on the knife with little apparent thought about the carry. What are some options for carry methods for a boot knife? Specifically looking for thoughts on carry in a western boot. Thanks.
It's hard to beat the Opinels for slicyness, or is that sliciness? Those thin blades enable them to be slicy even when starting to dull. I have No.7s or 8s in each vehicle as food prep knives while on the road or out picnicking and keep one in my tackle box as well. I also have a spear point one that hangs from a string on the side of the potting bench I made my wife years ago, it's perfect for opening bags of potting soil, cutting twine, piercing things, etc. My wife commandeered my first No.7 to put in the snack bag she takes with her in the car whenever she leaves the house. They aren't hard use heavy duty knives but in our modern world where most knives are used to open mail and packages or as food prep, they are more than sufficient for most daily tasks.
Hey DCA and crew. I was thinking about one of my biggest regrets when it comes to knife buying. Color options when it comes to scales. As such my question is about dying. What handle materials are the easiest to dye? Is there a preferred scale dye to use? What would be some good cheap options to practice dying scales with, so that I don't mess up the more expensive knives?
DCA, I only got into knives just over 2 years ago. When did the knife hobby really explode? It seems like it may have been in the last 3-5 years with so many new companies popping up. What are some of the key moments, innovations, important companies, models, etc over time that stick out that got us to where we are today?
I enjoy ultralight hiking and am always on the lookout for a knife or multi tool that is lightweight, has a decent blade size that is sturdier and larger than a Victorinox classic, has scissors, and pliers. The Leatherman squirt was perfect but is no more. The next tool mini salor is good but heavier than I’d like. Any alternatives out there? Or any recommendations on multiple implements that are light weight and fill Knife, scissors and pliers needs?
@KnifeCenter Hey DCA. "Measure Once Cut Twice." You recommended the MKM Malga 6 for an edc fork. I would like to point out that Victorinox makes or a knife called the victorinox Cheese (apologies if it is discontinued). It has the fork but also a serrated steak knife and a dedicated cheese knife as well as a corkscrew. It is also under $100 and provides a full handed grip. I think this would make a vastly superior option for an EDC fork. I love the content and have been a fan for years. Just hoping to make it onto an episode of KniFAQ.
I like the idea of a glass breaker in the event I need to get in or out of a vehicle. I'm a generator mechanic by trade and travel a good bit. I've seen several accidents and responded but haven't had a glass breaker to make entry. What would you suggest for a relatively budget friendly knife with a glass breaker. I like D2 for work as it has served me well but would be open to some better steel options. Would like to keep it below $150 if possible. Love the videos and look forward to your response.
Opinel has add on for N8 that is mounted on top of the folded blade and is locked with the lock-ring. But in this case you will loose the knife for the period of using of fork.
Hello DCA and all, great show . I've been a " knifer " for a very very long time and been sharpening my own for nearly as long as I've carried one.With a full array of hones , stones, sticks and strops Managing to attain shaving sharp edges on my collection. That being said I seem to encounter trouble getting a good working edge on scandi grind blades . Advice ? Thanks,
I need HELP! Where can I get replacement screws for knives I've lost screws out of. Are they all machine screws or is there a assortment like a big box of screws that would guarantee to have what I need in it? More specifically I lost a screw out of my CJRB Pyrite pocket clip and I LOVE THIS KNIFE! With one screw gone I'm scared the other one will work its way out and slide out of pocket and inevitability lose it. Thanks in advance and answers from anyone else is welcome also.
Bonjour DCA, I alternate everyday between my Bugout 535, CJRB Ria and my Vosteed mini Nightshade as EDC knife. Is there a knife under 100$ that could be similar (size and lightweight) but with a reverse tanto, wharncliff or sheepfoot blade. Merci, thank you.
Soft steels can be sharp. Disposable razor blades are soft. Harder steels will maintain edge geometry better as long as they don’t chip, but the abrasion side of edge holding does not depend of hardness but carbides. A 63 hrc super blue will blunt well before a 59 hrc S90V in scenarios where abrasion resistance is critical (so more edc tasks than chopping vegetables)
10:19 How you know? Nah now a real question, I am looking for a knife recommendation. I recently got a Buck 112 slim pro TRX and have fallen in love with it, mainly for the "Pokey Pokey" tip , the overall blade shape and that really well executed backlock, but I find more and more that my current profession requires something more nimble (I can open and close it with one hand but I still need it quicker). So basically what I want is a narrow, slicey blade with an acute tip (preferably clip point), a robust yet nimble lock, and because import makes pricey knives always pricier I'd like my next knife to cost no more than 75$ (maybe 100$ for something really good). Thanks DCA and crew for the awesome channel keep it up. P.S. bonus points for copper/brass options always liked those
Hello DCA and Thomas! so my daughter is about to turn 7 and really really wants her own pocket knife and it has to be pink, I was thinking one of the pink and black spydercos but now my wife says she'd prefer I get her a traditional. any suggestions on a good first knife?
I'm looking for a knife for my daughter too. The rike hummingbird is a work of art and is unique, but pricey! The spyderco ladybug is a practical choice or the kizer latt vind mini. I don't have that knife personally, but I love all my kizer knives.
Knif-A-Q question: Do you think companies like Spyderco will pick up the Tri-Ad lock when it’s patent becomes available for use to everyone? I feel like the only way we’ll get knives like the Delica 2 or Endura 2 would be if they make a substantial upgrade, but would a stronger backlock-style action be enough for the change? Love the content, keep it up. Please say “Hi” to everyone there for me
I wish there was a one handed opening knife that had a pair of scissors without all the bulk of a full multi tool, but I have never seen such a thing. Any suggestions or does it just not exist?
Clearly, you could bring a Nafs Lander with you to the moon. It would be helpful for making your own meals, since the restaurants there are generally not a good option. It’s not that the food is bad. There’s just no atmosphere.
Hey there DCA, love the show. Here's my question: I've read on some knife forum that AR-RPM9 is not a PM steel but is a product of electro-slag remelting. Do you have a sense for the accuracy of this claim? Thanks.
As a mechanical engineer, the idea of "sharpness" is a little difficult to put a number on. Engineering is about putting numbers on things, not feelings. "Sharpness" could be defined by how easy it is to push the knife through something. Or, it could be defined as how easily things cut while dragging the edge over something. The second of these has no really good scientific tests, to my knowledge. 14c28n and 420HC have very high toughness, while still being very stainless. Neither have particularly great edge retention, which doesn't matter if you can sharpen your own knife. 14c28n was made to be a razor blade steel. It would make sense that these two are great examples that easily get extremely sharp. Carbide growths suspended in the steel matrix would technically cause more sharpness with the same edge geometry. This provides a toothy edge at a microscopic level. It's possible that some other steels do this better.
The comment I was looking for! Absolutely, many things go into "how sharp" you can get a blade, including geometry at and behind the edge. The size and configuration of carbides in the steel was the exact feature I was going to point out as being one of those "way more complicated than just hardness" details.
When you need to serve your fanciest caviar, the PF Beluga. Or when you need to fix your Rolex, PF Hourglass... When you need to cut some venison jerky, the Bestech Bambi. And when you need to run to the dentist, the Civivi Incisor.
The sharpness of the knife depends, of course, on the grind, but above all on the type of steel used, which affects the thickness of the cutting edge. The key is the number of carbides and their size in the structure of the steel. For example, D2 steel has large carbides, so it cuts very aggressively, but large carbides can chip off the cutting edge more easily if the edge is thin. generally, the smaller the carbides, the thinner the cutting edge can be made, which means a sharper knife. At the moment, I use steels such as K390, Sleipner, Magnacut, 01, Cruewear, ZDP 189, 80CR and other high-carbon tool steels. Also M2, M4 steel and Russian R12 steel, the so-called "bystroriez", hardened to 70HRC, similarly ASP 2060 and many others.
I found D2 to get much sharper than 440C. It is harder to grind, but I can get D2 hair shaving sharp much easier than 440C. AUS-8, SK-5 and 1084 also get sharper for me, you can definately hear and feel the difference when slicing paper. I have no idea, if this is my sharpening skills lacking or being more suited to some steels or if this is a real difference between the steels. I have a few 440C and D2 knives that are around the same hardness, and the D2 picks off the hair on my arm without resistance while the 440C tugs a bit, so one definately is sharper at 56-58HRC and 17°/side edges.
Re the sound of quotation marks I would suggest you take a look on here for old school comedian Victor Borge’s Phonetic Punctuation. No sound board required to make the sounds.
Folding knives for when you doing your laundry. Benchmade for carpenters...... Jed, sorry to hear about your loss. For your first knife, what knife were you considering as your next purchase before the fire?
Hey y'all! Since you were talking about sharpness, I began to wonder is there a way to quantify sharpness with an objective unit of measurement? Would it be too obvious to use a point system?
In the summer, I carry an Opinel 7. Primarily because I wear linen pants and shorts and a pocket clip is no bueno. Every summer I am shocked at how slicey Opinels are. They are so light. So slicey. So inexpensive. Such a goood knife.
Just don't get them wet. They'll be worthless. Not that great of a knife if you really use them.
It's my picnic/park day knife for food prep
@@charlesjames5486 Just put it in a Tupperware container with a dehumidifier like the Eva-Dry and it'll be fine.
I know I know the bad boyz like to flick flick flick but the old man here loves to slice into an apple with a nice sharp Opinel
@@charlesjames5486 -- I use mine all the time. It's fine. I don't get it wet -- I use it in the house for a million different things. I own much more expensive knives, but I don't own any that I love more. Never needs sharpening. Regular stropping with compound keeps it shaving sharp.
Thanks for the response David I really apricate the outlook.
Hey man. I’m sorry for your loss in the house fire. Was it the carbon fiber bugout with the blue hardware?
@the_knife_degenerate no it was a coustom through the benchmade coustom knife builder with the carbon scales and orange hardware actually. But I think I'm gonna save up and get the carbon with blue hardware to give myself something fresh but familiar
Do you have an Instagram account ? I'd like to have a private conversation about helping get your knife collection started again.
Hey man I completely understand your pain. I lost my collection of knives about 15 years ago including my very first knife I received from a collector when I was 8 years old.
Then a few years later a house fire got my restart collection. But a knife collection starts with 1 knife friend.
If I could recommend just 1 to start with, I highly recommend an Expat Medellin if you can find one. Expat is a sub company of Esee's and they have an unquestioned lifetime warranty. And those guys truly mean it. Good luck!
I have used the same Opinel no.7 since 1983. Did ten years in the military with me, camping, hiking , etc. Has never let me down.
Damned Jed I'm sorry to hear about the fire. It happened to our family as a young child. Can only imagine what you're going thru
DCA is a counselor and philosopher as well!! Who knew?? Awesome as always!
Boot knives are handy for cleaning out the trunk of your car. 😁
You guys better send that guy who lost his collection a free knife.
I think it's a great idea. Even this knife does not have to be expensive, even the Opinel shown, it is always a nice accent and a gift at the beginning of a new adventure.
100% agree, come on Knife center!!!
I like the idea, they certainly have enough of them. It would be epic if they sent him an m390 bugout so it would be better than his best knife
I bet they could get some publicity from that and people who saw it would be more likely to want to buy from them
They're not going to do that they'd rather him go pay for it on their site all of these videos are just them trying to sell the most expensive knives they can
@@StonrMoose69well of course it's about money, but publicity brings money too
I also lost 15 years ago nearly 90% of a nice knife collection I started in 1985. I still really miss some pieces, of course. One issue that makes it even worse is that some brands do not exist anymore or are sadly very far away from their golden era that had back them (for example Puma among many others)
The only good thing is that I have learnt to buy more useable items.
Bon courage man
That and prices have skyrocketed!
alternative fork option:
opinel came out with a picknick set with a spoon and fork that can be
attached to a #8 with the locking ring.
Saw that - so cool!
I have one, very nice setup
Bought my father a Mora Companion and it’s amazing; he loves it. Buying one for myself, also.
David should really start his own RUclips channel!
I've mentioned to Seth V that these two need their own channel, so they can speak freely without their masters of KnifeCenter looking over their shoulders.
Having lost several canine companions during life, I totally understand the suggestion as to not to try to recreate what was.
Yup
This was THE BEST most serious question and answer. 🤣🤣🤣
What bladed implement would you suggest for splitting carci? I'm torn between the carcass splitter from svord, and the svord carcass splitter.
Sorry for your lost..how devastating.. maybe consider getting a special knife that you always wanted and only carry that for awhile..having it with you all the time may help with the losses and catch the spark again? Anyway hoping you find your knife and build back soon⚔️
I've lost countless knives over the years. Knives are just easy items to lose. If you take them out and use them.
@@1pcfred maybe get an bright orange one
@@stefthorman8548 it wouldn't matter what color they are. When you're in a boat that capsizes stuff sinks. I've definitely lost knives that way.
So sorry for your loss!
Sharpest I've ever been able to get was on a 14c28n kitchen knife. The ht was low 60's, pretty thin bte, and it super easily takes an unbelievably keen edge. Sharpest I've gotten a pocket knife was some spyderco m4.
If I had restart my collection I would go for knives with a really interesting history like the Douk Douk or the Black Cat Mercator. They work fine and tell an amazing story.
I'd also get away from the newest super steel upgrade hype and collect traditional knives. Buy knives that are easy to sharpen.
As for locking folders I'd go for the classics Delica, Chaparral, Griptilian, 940 etc These knives are still the best.
Budget knives are so good these days (Kizer, Civivi), there is no need to waste money on high end stuff.
K55Ks are very brittle. They do take a wicked edge though. I used to get them at a hardware store for two bucks and change. But I'd always breaks the tips off of them.
MORA is definitely a sound choice for the kayak fishing. I don't do so much fishing from my yak so I don't need to worry about guts, and I keep that floating MORA on my PFD when I go out.
I own that opinal blade that are made in France and at first I wasn't sure about it....but I tell you it's an amazing knife super frickin sharp and stays sharp quite some time... I recommend the knife and for the price you can't beat it.... I personally think the knife is sold way to low but not complaining either cause I've got a funny feeling those prices ain't going to last long
DCA , best advice was your philosophical advice. Great content!
For fishing I think the best option is the Victorinox paring style knife. you can usually find them at bait and tackle shop. There are proprietary sheathes you can buy. I think Grundens still makes one. I've used them for many years as a commercial fisherman. They are cheep and wicked sharp out of the box.
I always wear a skinner when I watch old Simpsons episodes, and I use a switch blade to turn my lights on or off.
I carry a stainless Opinel #7 while backpacking. Can't beat the performance for things like food preparation and light utility tasks for the weight or the price!
Gotta say, that Kershaw Iridium looks really sweet! 🥰
Hi DCA and crew ... what knife would you reckomend for EDC/mid to hard use. 1 hand opening and 2. finger safe.3 with a decent amout of edge retntion and corrosion resistence . Has to be avlible in the UK thank you in advance. Keep up the good work
Well that would depend how many envelopes you open a day!
Amazing answers to the first one, nice job. That couldn't have been easy.
Jed: Start practical then move to collection when you feel like! David had some SOLID sage advice. That kershaw is good, but also I'd recommend the CJRB Hecate which is like a bugout lite
I just picked one up. similar feeling but the hole isnt really suited to thumb flicking. Spydie flicks perfectly but the shape and placement of the hole means no thumb flick for me. Still for the money its 90% a bugout if you don’t mind the steel having lower edge retention
Hi DCA, I’m looking for a good front flipper and reverse flicker for my next purchase under $75. I have the Sencut Brontë in mind, do you have other recommendations? Thanks!
I used to get frustrates with hard steel, it didn't seem to sharpen is well as softer steel. Recently I tried bumping the angle up higher, and it made a difference.
when DCA pulled out the bestech swordfish and said this is named after where it goes, I thought he would bring up that it's a big easy knife you might take with you to the big easy (New Orleans).
As to the question regarding different steels holding an edge at the same hardness... the molecular structure of the steel and the size and type of carbides in the steel will determine which steel holds an edge longer as much as the hardness.
As to the question of what kind of steel to use in making a kitchen knife at home D2 is a good choice. It's literally an air hardening steel with two sweet spots in the tempering process. It was literally invented for tool makers in smaller shops to make dies out of. As a die steel, it will hold a pretty good edge and rust al little more slowly than a 10 series steel. It will be a little harder to keep sharp but It will do pretty OK on a kitchen knife steel without having to strop it.
In sharpness terms I find the low alloy, cleaner PM steels get sharper. The hardness does not really matter as I've gotten a tin can steel lid shaving sharp with ease. It won't hold the edge but it will be razor sharp.
High end steel, high wear steels fail in sharpness because they have high hardness carbides in the mix which means you actually have more of a micro serrated edge.
So in summary, a steel like AEB-L or stainless razor blade grade steel, or 1065-1075 will be best.
Hello DCA! I love your work. Like Seth, I like to use my folding knives for food prep. I was convinced to buy the Civivi Vision FG. But I heard that Kizer came out with a model called the Momo which also seems to me to be suitable for such a task. Could you give me your opinion about both knives. Thanks!
Spyderco Waterway (fixed) or Siren (folder) were designed by Lance Clinton who is a professional ocean kayak fisherman. I can say from personal ownership that the Siren makes a fantastic EDC folder as well 😊😊
For an ideal dive knife (in this case Scuba diving), a flat point fixed blade is my preferred knife. I like the Benchmade 112 but I would love to see it in LC200N steel.
Working in law enforcement I normally pack a medium to large sized folder like the Benchmade Adamas as a backup weapon and utility blade. I would love to pack this knife off duty as well but I find myself in need of a thin, small blade for carving, opening boxes etc. Is there a somewhat tactical knife with a small, thin secondary blade made for everyday tasks?
I liked the Stainless Spyderco Endura for OD and court/Inv business attire.
Great title. The intro picture probably answers the question. Maybe Swiss Army is a contender. It's pretty logical really. Simple steel tends to sharpen to a thinner edge. I always wonder about these steel debates. I think it is much easier to cut and re-sharpen as you go then to have edge retention. Plus Simple Steels get really really sharp. So why is edge retention so valued? Ohh... 440A also great sharpness.
If a wild boar was charging at you, which knife or knives would you use?
Hey DCA, i need a modern pocket knife for fishing with a 3 inch blade. Any recommendations? MY budget is 150. Thanks keep up the great work.
"Dive knife" I suggest something wide in the blade. Borka does some cool stuff. SBD works both ways. SB1 works one way.
On a budget you could go with a smatchet, hack saw it off to a length you will carry, obviously resharpen your new profile.
Old hickory, and condor make great examples of value priced knives that can fill many roles.
Things like riggers/athletic tape, paracord do a great job securing your grip, and your sheath.
Completely innocuous and often over looked, the velcro "gear wrap" makes a wonderful loop that is hook on one side loop on the other. Good for belts and bag interiors.
Reegarding particle steels. I bought a Viper Knives Orso 2 from y'all with LO-QPM 20-4 from Lohmann of Germany. a 20CV class steel at a great price!
Great show as ever. Learn something new near enough every time.
KniFAQ question!
I am looking for a pocket knife to fit a handmade leather wallet with a built in sheath that would fit a Benchmade Proper Mini Bugout or a Kershaw Leek.
Would you have recommendations within a more traditional style but are as slim as the above?
Ive noticed certain steels lose their sharp edge while simply sitting unused in a drawer. I've tried to research it a bit and have found oxidation can play a part, so I put a light gun oil on the edge, which helped, but I still find that shaving-sharp blades are butter knife dull after a year or so of sitting, while other steels dont do this at all. Another factor is "molecular migration" kind of like water surface tension, sharp edges want to pull back in away from singleness, favoring more crystal embedment. Have you noticed this phenomena?
Send the second question to Dr. Larrin Thomas, the knife steel nerd.
My experience with CPM S30V (most common across brands.) Brand 'B' vs Brand 'S'. 'B' holds the edge longer but more likely to micro-chip, 'S' does not hold the edge as long but rolls rather than micro-chipping. That is subjective and others experience can and will vary.
I really enjoy your knowledge and opinions on knives, especially the reverse tantos. 😂
Knife Center has some terrific exclusives
More cool impractical fixed blades please including daggers
I do fresh water kayaking on mostly smooth water. But it’s miles from any people. I carry a falkniven f1 in vg10 steel in its kydex sheath. Don’t have to worry as much about rust. Lightweight. Can take a beating. And still do everything needed of it.
I still use a marbles ideal for EDC You can't beat it Had it for 30 years😊
As a knifemaker, a harder steel is going to take a finer, longer lasting edge, however it will also more easily get chipped. As an extreme example, try getting a razor edge on a butter knife. On the other hand, a traditional katana has a hardness around 60 and is famous for being incredibly sharp.
Love the knife humor 😄
On your knives of the week, you displayed a new fixed blade it was about a 5” knife with a green micarta handle. One notable thing was that it had a slimmer handle, yet, as you said, “It nonetheless fills my hand; it feels good.”
What knife could that be? (Heck with the needle in a haystack, this is a knife in a knife warehouse!)
I've tried all kinds of exotic EDC pocket knives over the years but I've had a cheap-and-cheerful carbon steel Opinel #8 in my pocket for the last five. It takes a wicked edge, comes back from a bit blunt in ten minutes and is just a delight to own. I also have one of their fancy stainless models with an ebony handle but it's not quite as good. Sharpens and holds an edge as well as it should but it lacks that carbon steel feel, that evil sharp thing.
Hi DCA. The Condor mini duku: a small machete ? A big knife? A tiny sith lord? What is it and where to draw the line between those categories? Thx
Good morning from the UK. I'm a chef, my kitchen EDC consists of a Parker Jotter and an Opinel #8 or sometimes a Victorinox Climber. I'm looking for a slightly more robust pocket folder for the kitchen, $50 or less, maybe something like a Boker Atlas or Ontario Camp Plus for packets and light prep work, what would you suggest for a chef?
5:05 - Im a little bit iffy on this but afaik, perceived sharpness is a function of blade geometry, edge angle and scratch pattern. Hardness, structure and carbides should only affect toughness and edge retention. If I remember correctly, you can technically sharpen a steel with higher ductility to a finer point than a harder steel, because the harder steel's apex will start crumbling under itself at some point during sharpening and the more ductile steel will "cling on" a bit more and let itself be shaped that way. Downside ofc being that the edge wont last for more than a cut or two which would (imo) be a very disappointing knife.
But hey, correct me if im wrong
Hey DCA, love your videos. I appreciate your no nonsense, and clear opinions. I am going you will talk to manufactures who make ambidextrous lock knives; but then refuse to make them Left Handed friendly. You always bring it up in your reviews; but I notice more and more Ambi knives coming only set up for RH. I find that kind of thing truly ridiculous… thanks, Proud Lefty [ps there are more of us every day]
What knife would you suggest for bartenders, specifically cutting ice into shapes and cutting cubes off a larger block of ice?
Som thing with a fine toothed saw?
On a recent episode you were talking about which knife you would recommend to anyone and it made me curious. what is the cheapest folding knife, other than an Opinel or Swiss Army, you would feel comfortable recommending to a first time, right handed buyer who just wants something for the usual everyday tasks?
Hey DCA! Question for future FAQ. What are your favourite new smaller makers that knife center has taken on recently?? Love my spyderco, we, ZT etc, but curious on looking into some smaller makers! Perhaps a list of 3-5 ranging from 100-500? Thanks meng!
Hello DCA! Thanks for another informative video! I just ordered a Spyderco Para 3 with Maxamet blade steel from you guys! I saw on your site that corrosion is something that needs to be prevented. So, how do I prevent it lol?
Is there a special chemical, or should I use my camellia oil or what? I would rather get use a great product instead of a shortcut. Thanks!
I love mineral oil personally, but Sentry Solutions Tuf Cloth is a great option that doesn't leave any residue. Check it out here: www.knifecenter.com/brand/13/Sentry-Solutions
Hi David. Quick question:
What does the new PM2 salt use for washers? Will it be compatible with aftermarket scales?
Can you please do a segment on skinning knives for all the hunters.
Hey Jed...check out the Freek and the Mini Freek. I absolutely love my Mini Freek with G10 scales and CPM M4 blade...it's pretty sweet. Good luck with your home replacement...I'm going through the very same thing and it's not easy.
Mr DCA and Thomas - thanks for all the great knife videos. I have been looking for a boot knife (of which there are plenty) but everything is focused on the knife with little apparent thought about the carry. What are some options for carry methods for a boot knife? Specifically looking for thoughts on carry in a western boot. Thanks.
It's hard to beat the Opinels for slicyness, or is that sliciness? Those thin blades enable them to be slicy even when starting to dull. I have No.7s or 8s in each vehicle as food prep knives while on the road or out picnicking and keep one in my tackle box as well. I also have a spear point one that hangs from a string on the side of the potting bench I made my wife years ago, it's perfect for opening bags of potting soil, cutting twine, piercing things, etc. My wife commandeered my first No.7 to put in the snack bag she takes with her in the car whenever she leaves the house. They aren't hard use heavy duty knives but in our modern world where most knives are used to open mail and packages or as food prep, they are more than sufficient for most daily tasks.
Hey DCA and crew.
I was thinking about one of my biggest regrets when it comes to knife buying. Color options when it comes to scales. As such my question is about dying. What handle materials are the easiest to dye? Is there a preferred scale dye to use? What would be some good cheap options to practice dying scales with, so that I don't mess up the more expensive knives?
Assisted knives are really good anytime you need help with anything
DCA, I only got into knives just over 2 years ago. When did the knife hobby really explode? It seems like it may have been in the last 3-5 years with so many new companies popping up. What are some of the key moments, innovations, important companies, models, etc over time that stick out that got us to where we are today?
I enjoy ultralight hiking and am always on the lookout for a knife or multi tool that is lightweight, has a decent blade size that is sturdier and larger than a Victorinox classic, has scissors, and pliers. The Leatherman squirt was perfect but is no more. The next tool mini salor is good but heavier than I’d like. Any alternatives out there? Or any recommendations on multiple implements that are light weight and fill Knife, scissors and pliers needs?
@KnifeCenter Hey DCA. "Measure Once Cut Twice." You recommended the MKM Malga 6 for an edc fork. I would like to point out that Victorinox makes or a knife called the victorinox Cheese (apologies if it is discontinued). It has the fork but also a serrated steak knife and a dedicated cheese knife as well as a corkscrew. It is also under $100 and provides a full handed grip. I think this would make a vastly superior option for an EDC fork. I love the content and have been a fan for years. Just hoping to make it onto an episode of KniFAQ.
I like the idea of a glass breaker in the event I need to get in or out of a vehicle. I'm a generator mechanic by trade and travel a good bit. I've seen several accidents and responded but haven't had a glass breaker to make entry. What would you suggest for a relatively budget friendly knife with a glass breaker. I like D2 for work as it has served me well but would be open to some better steel options. Would like to keep it below $150 if possible. Love the videos and look forward to your response.
Opinel has add on for N8 that is mounted on top of the folded blade and is locked with the lock-ring. But in this case you will loose the knife for the period of using of fork.
Hello DCA and all, great show . I've been a " knifer " for a very very long time and been sharpening my own for nearly as long as I've carried one.With a full array of hones , stones, sticks and strops Managing to attain shaving sharp edges on my collection. That being said I seem to encounter trouble getting a good working edge on scandi grind blades . Advice ? Thanks,
I need HELP! Where can I get replacement screws for knives I've lost screws out of. Are they all machine screws or is there a assortment like a big box of screws that would guarantee to have what I need in it? More specifically I lost a screw out of my CJRB Pyrite pocket clip and I LOVE THIS KNIFE! With one screw gone I'm scared the other one will work its way out and slide out of pocket and inevitability lose it. Thanks in advance and answers from anyone else is welcome also.
Best bet would be to contact the warranty departments of the respective comapnies. -DCA
Hey Thomas and David, Do you know of a finger safe alternative to the Gerber Descent II? Thanx
Bonjour DCA, I alternate everyday between my Bugout 535, CJRB Ria and my Vosteed mini Nightshade as EDC knife. Is there a knife under 100$ that could be similar (size and lightweight) but with a reverse tanto, wharncliff or sheepfoot blade. Merci, thank you.
Absolutely beyond a doubt my sharpest blade in my many knives is my three carbon steel opinels.
Soft steels can be sharp. Disposable razor blades are soft. Harder steels will maintain edge geometry better as long as they don’t chip, but the abrasion side of edge holding does not depend of hardness but carbides. A 63 hrc super blue will blunt well before a 59 hrc S90V in scenarios where abrasion resistance is critical (so more edc tasks than chopping vegetables)
Bought my Opinel #9 in '80. Have exponentially better folders, but that beat up Opinel is an old friend.
10:19 How you know?
Nah now a real question, I am looking for a knife recommendation. I recently got a Buck 112 slim pro TRX and have fallen in love with it, mainly for the "Pokey Pokey" tip , the overall blade shape and that really well executed backlock, but I find more and more that my current profession requires something more nimble (I can open and close it with one hand but I still need it quicker). So basically what I want is a narrow, slicey blade with an acute tip (preferably clip point), a robust yet nimble lock, and because import makes pricey knives always pricier I'd like my next knife to cost no more than 75$ (maybe 100$ for something really good). Thanks DCA and crew for the awesome channel keep it up.
P.S. bonus points for copper/brass options always liked those
From personal experience, CTS-XHP has taken the keenest edge I've seen/used
Hello DCA and Thomas! so my daughter is about to turn 7 and really really wants her own pocket knife and it has to be pink, I was thinking one of the pink and black spydercos but now my wife says she'd prefer I get her a traditional. any suggestions on a good first knife?
I'm looking for a knife for my daughter too. The rike hummingbird is a work of art and is unique, but pricey! The spyderco ladybug is a practical choice or the kizer latt vind mini. I don't have that knife personally, but I love all my kizer knives.
Knif-A-Q question: Do you think companies like Spyderco will pick up the Tri-Ad lock when it’s patent becomes available for use to everyone? I feel like the only way we’ll get knives like the Delica 2 or Endura 2 would be if they make a substantial upgrade, but would a stronger backlock-style action be enough for the change?
Love the content, keep it up. Please say “Hi” to everyone there for me
Most serious question, what would the spawn of a ColdSteel and Spyderco knife look like? What two models would dare do the deed to accomplish this
Possible question... are there any full size stockman slipjoints that are traditional... bone handles, etc. But made with modern steels?
How about a Rough Ryder Reserve with D2, Just a guess
Hi DCA! When we will see an Spyderco Police 4 knifecenter exclusive with pakkawood? Or it's will be an 5th version on the way?
I wish there was a one handed opening knife that had a pair of scissors without all the bulk of a full multi tool, but I have never seen such a thing. Any suggestions or does it just not exist?
Have you looked at the Leatherman Free K4? It isn't anywhere near as bulky as their pliers are.
Clearly, you could bring a Nafs Lander with you to the moon.
It would be helpful for making your own meals, since the restaurants there are generally not a good option. It’s not that the food is bad. There’s just no atmosphere.
Really harsh lighting there, too.
@@knifecenter Lots of cheese knives though.
I'm looking for a folder with a blade similar to the CRKT Ritual, that isn't spring assisted, what can you recommend?
Hey there DCA, love the show.
Here's my question: I've read on some knife forum that AR-RPM9 is not a PM steel but is a product of electro-slag remelting. Do you have a sense for the accuracy of this claim? Thanks.
13:30 1st though was the Spyderco Fish Hunter which is in the Salt Series and dispatching fish.
As a mechanical engineer, the idea of "sharpness" is a little difficult to put a number on. Engineering is about putting numbers on things, not feelings.
"Sharpness" could be defined by how easy it is to push the knife through something. Or, it could be defined as how easily things cut while dragging the edge over something. The second of these has no really good scientific tests, to my knowledge.
14c28n and 420HC have very high toughness, while still being very stainless. Neither have particularly great edge retention, which doesn't matter if you can sharpen your own knife. 14c28n was made to be a razor blade steel. It would make sense that these two are great examples that easily get extremely sharp.
Carbide growths suspended in the steel matrix would technically cause more sharpness with the same edge geometry. This provides a toothy edge at a microscopic level. It's possible that some other steels do this better.
The comment I was looking for!
Absolutely, many things go into "how sharp" you can get a blade, including geometry at and behind the edge. The size and configuration of carbides in the steel was the exact feature I was going to point out as being one of those "way more complicated than just hardness" details.
When you need to serve your fanciest caviar, the PF Beluga. Or when you need to fix your Rolex, PF Hourglass... When you need to cut some venison jerky, the Bestech Bambi. And when you need to run to the dentist, the Civivi Incisor.
The sharpness of the knife depends, of course, on the grind, but above all on the type of steel used, which affects the thickness of the cutting edge. The key is the number of carbides and their size in the structure of the steel. For example, D2 steel has large carbides, so it cuts very aggressively, but large carbides can chip off the cutting edge more easily if the edge is thin.
generally, the smaller the carbides, the thinner the cutting edge can be made, which means a sharper knife.
At the moment, I use steels such as K390, Sleipner, Magnacut, 01, Cruewear, ZDP 189, 80CR and other high-carbon tool steels. Also M2, M4 steel and Russian R12 steel, the so-called "bystroriez", hardened to 70HRC, similarly ASP 2060 and many others.
I found D2 to get much sharper than 440C. It is harder to grind, but I can get D2 hair shaving sharp much easier than 440C. AUS-8, SK-5 and 1084 also get sharper for me, you can definately hear and feel the difference when slicing paper.
I have no idea, if this is my sharpening skills lacking or being more suited to some steels or if this is a real difference between the steels. I have a few 440C and D2 knives that are around the same hardness, and the D2 picks off the hair on my arm without resistance while the 440C tugs a bit, so one definately is sharper at 56-58HRC and 17°/side edges.
Re the sound of quotation marks I would suggest you take a look on here for old school comedian Victor Borge’s Phonetic Punctuation. No sound board required to make the sounds.
Big fan, his comedy was so cre-nine-ive and innov-nine-ive!!! -DCA
Folding knives for when you doing your laundry. Benchmade for carpenters......
Jed, sorry to hear about your loss. For your first knife, what knife were you considering as your next purchase before the fire?
Hey y'all! Since you were talking about sharpness, I began to wonder is there a way to quantify sharpness with an objective unit of measurement? Would it be too obvious to use a point system?
Question; have you used, or do you have a list of heat treaters for hobby knife makers? You must have run into a few.