Have been watching the reviews of the 810 since its introduction as I'm in the market, the nearest rival but more expensive is the Wood Maxx 9900, have seen no such issues with it.
Wood Maxx just had a terrific father's day sale with free shipping so not wanting like you to take a chance from what others have experienced with the 810 I went with the USA made and patented direction.
The only times I have had an issue with a shear pin the feed roller has been turned down. The pump doesn't provide enough flow to have consistent rotation on the roller. I just use the handle to stop once or twice and it has been fine since I have used it that way. I thought about drilling and tapping the current "teeth" on the infeed roller and adding sharpened "teeth" with small v notches to help grab the wood. Some pieces are a little stubborn to keep feeding. Cutting what you are going to feed on somewhat of an angle also helps as it acts as a ramp for thing spring rather than trying to open it up all at once.
seems a few people are having issues with the shear bolts. why they put them on is beyond me. they put a slip clutch on the stump grinder why not on here.
The problem I see with the slip clutch on here is that if it slips the chipper will most likely be plugged and from my experience with them it would end up being a problem all the time. I would like to see if it could work though.
@@Jerefarms the slip clutch is to protect the tractor in a chipper application. There should not be any failure points to the chipper. A slip clutch or shear bolt won't do any good if a knife hits the bed knife.
Mine just arrived a couple weeks ago, cannot get it assembled, the first step for the lower hitch arm, all the plates the bolts must go through the holes do not line up? did you have this problem?
Where you see the ding in the blade, check if it lines up with the end of the anvil. Mine has the same and did from pretty early on and I think its from deflection in the flywheel causing the blades to skim the anvil.
@@Jerefarmsyeah don’t try setting the gap to the minimum distance it says in the manual, you’ll definitely be hitting. I would be setting it close to maximum gap
the oak didn't do that to the blades. there was metal in the oak, nail or something. that's what sheered the bolt. and trying to run with that fast of feed and dull blades sheered the second one. slow the feed down some. and never chip old dry hardwood lumber! if you need to test it use a pine 4x4. machine is made for green wood not dry hardwood lumber. if it wasn't metal in the oak it was metal somewhere. wood doesn't do that to hardened steel.
Somone else mentioned that their flywheel deflected enough to hit the bed plate and I’m thinking that’s what happened to this one to. And the second time it was about as slow as it goes. And I agree with the dull blade making a difference.
Have been watching the reviews of the 810 since its introduction as I'm in the market, the nearest rival but more expensive is the Wood Maxx 9900, have seen no such issues with it.
Wood Maxx just had a terrific father's day sale with free shipping so not wanting like you to take a chance from what others have experienced with the 810 I went with the USA made and patented direction.
The only times I have had an issue with a shear pin the feed roller has been turned down. The pump doesn't provide enough flow to have consistent rotation on the roller. I just use the handle to stop once or twice and it has been fine since I have used it that way. I thought about drilling and tapping the current "teeth" on the infeed roller and adding sharpened "teeth" with small v notches to help grab the wood. Some pieces are a little stubborn to keep feeding. Cutting what you are going to feed on somewhat of an angle also helps as it acts as a ramp for thing spring rather than trying to open it up all at once.
I’ve had problems even if I have it tapered. I might just need to turn the infeed roller pressure down.
seems a few people are having issues with the shear bolts. why they put them on is beyond me. they put a slip clutch on the stump grinder why not on here.
The problem I see with the slip clutch on here is that if it slips the chipper will most likely be plugged and from my experience with them it would end up being a problem all the time. I would like to see if it could work though.
@@Jerefarms the slip clutch is to protect the tractor in a chipper application. There should not be any failure points to the chipper. A slip clutch or shear bolt won't do any good if a knife hits the bed knife.
Mine just arrived a couple weeks ago, cannot get it assembled, the first step for the lower hitch arm, all the plates the bolts must go through the holes do not line up? did you have this problem?
Yes I had to loosen up the legs and shift the blower housing to make the holes line up. If I’m remembering correctly.
Where you see the ding in the blade, check if it lines up with the end of the anvil. Mine has the same and did from pretty early on and I think its from deflection in the flywheel causing the blades to skim the anvil.
It does line up. I might have to bump the anvil plate back some.
@@Jerefarmsyeah don’t try setting the gap to the minimum distance it says in the manual, you’ll definitely be hitting. I would be setting it close to maximum gap
the oak didn't do that to the blades. there was metal in the oak, nail or something. that's what sheered the bolt. and trying to run with that fast of feed and dull blades sheered the second one. slow the feed down some. and never chip old dry hardwood lumber! if you need to test it use a pine 4x4. machine is made for green wood not dry hardwood lumber. if it wasn't metal in the oak it was metal somewhere. wood doesn't do that to hardened steel.
Somone else mentioned that their flywheel deflected enough to hit the bed plate and I’m thinking that’s what happened to this one to. And the second time it was about as slow as it goes. And I agree with the dull blade making a difference.
Cut a angle on the big stuff and it will feed a lot better
I’ll try it next time. Thanks