I have been using thisas a handy reference book ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGQVgV21bQ7B9b9duQ1ByImyT9xHbjOKq . I read through the book and enjoyed the little glimpses of examples. I love that this author believes in rescue dogs. The tips and training has been invaluable and gave me moments of.... "how simple why didn't i think of it" so it's been a great tool. Thank you!
I just want to thank the two little old ladies who used to teach dog obedience at one of our local parks, through a Parks Dept program. I learned so much from those women. AND their philosophy mirrored a lot of what I'm seeing here in this vid. Two things I learned from those ladies and two things I think everyone should know are 1) Be consistent and 2) Always praise/reward good behavior. My dogs are well-exercised, almost to the point of exhaustion, and they do well off-leash. I can tell you: One of the most satisfying things to hear is when other dog walkers and pedestrians tell you, about your dog, "What a good dog! Such a happy dog." Yep. It takes time and effort and consistency and praise to establish that bond. Is there anything better than having a well-trained and super happy dog?
A few criticisms or additions! This video is good in its description of positive reinforcement, use of long lines for training and exercises for building strong relationships and drive with your dog. However, I don’t think there’s anything I saw that actually suggested 6ft loose leash training exercises. The most success I’ve had is teaching both equipment cues and repetitive boring loose leash walking. Generally the exercise goes like this:- 1. Put a harness on your dog that has at least 2 lead connection points (one on the back clip and one on the front chest clip) 2. Start to understand that when the lead is connected to the front chest clip you want nothing but loose leash (next to you and not pulling) walking. I differentiate loose leash from heeling as with some heeling there are more expectations like the dog looking at you or being in a particular walking gait. And equally when the lead is on the back clip the dog can gently pull (within reason) or go over to a sniff etc (more free roam). 3. Front clip loose leash walking exercises should be extremely short e.g. a minute and done up and down the same spot to avoid introducing novelty and distractions. Don’t expect to ‘go for a walk’ and train loose leash walking. 4. In each exercise you are looking to walk forwards and have the dog by your side. Saying words of encouragement (just talking) can help your dog with engagement and focus. 5. If your dogs back legs go ahead of your legs then they are no longer by your side. When this happens allow the dog to continue walking forwards to the end of the lead. Now you start walking backwards (still facing forwards - like back peddling) and gently add pressure in the lead whilst doing this. Eventually your dog will realise and walk back towards you. When they reach you reset them by your side and continue walking forwards. 5. Repeat repeat repeat. Eventually your dog will learn the reward of ‘going forwards’ only happens by your side. 6. By keeping training sessions short and associating this ‘you must be next to me’ behavior when the lead is attached to front clip you start to give the dog expectations of how to behave. 7. Give your dog breaks from expected behavior by moving the lead from front clip to back clop (free roam). You can actually start to associate a command with this switchover like ‘go sniff’. This will equally give your dog time to stop focusing, reflect on what’s been learnt, rewarded with free roam and avoid frustration. You may actually find that you get to a point where moving from front clip to back clip your dog does like a burst of mania. This is good! It means your dog has learnt and been restraining their excitement/urges when in front clip. 7. I can’t emphasise enough the importance of short sessions. Expect nice waking for a few seconds. When dog walks in front, back peddle and reset. Try to walk forwards again. Repeat. Repeat. Try short exercises like walking a distance of 5, 10 or 15 metres on loose leash and start to track if there is a reduction in the number of times you need to reset your dog. 8. By slowly incrementing distance and time of sessions you’ll find your dog will walk on the front clip lead cue with loose leash behaviors for multiple minutes, then tens of minutes etc. 9. You can use equipment cues to set behaviors e.g. you get to a busy junction, you go inside a shop and attach front clip to indicate to your dog that you want them closer to you with nice loose leash walking. It really helps with traffic management!
@@haveablessedday7746each to their own. Personally watching the video you mentioned there’s just a stuff I would never choose to use including prong collars and ‘leash popping’. Doing that alone is not really teaching the dog - it’s just suppressing their behavior so they don’t do it as opposed to them LEARNING what is a preferred behavior. The reason learning takes so long is because it requires the dog to LEARN, create new habits and form/ reform its previous behavior. In fact the danger with ‘learning’ through a leash pop is that it leads to a chance of pairing the physical correction with an environmental variable. ‘I got corrected…. There was a dog near me when my neck was jolted… perhaps I should stay away from other dogs to avoid that feeling again’. Theres a propensity here to actually create anxiety and fear in dogs or at the very least trigger stacking. Garret also combined his prong and leash corrections with positive reinforcement (he gave his dog treats) in the same session. There’s probably a whole lot of conflict that possibly might be building in the dog: corrections and treats… If you read any studies as opposed to entrenched old ‘theories’ (archaic pack theory, old fashioned military methods) or watch some RUclips video lie titled: ‘change your dog in 10 minutes’…you’ll realise this is all scientifically backed. And I’m backing it from my own experience (and before the comments start… I’ve had success with this approach with big dogs like a 40kg Doberman). The challenge is everyone wants a ‘quick fix’ and equally I don’t think THIS video was that informative of a structured and repeatable set of methods to realise this. Hence my detailed comment. It takes months to train loose leash and then to proof it for all the novelty that new environments can bring. Quick fixes don’t happen elsewhere in life - I don’t hire a private tutor for my child and expect them to then be Albert Einstein overnight… why do we then expect immediate change for our dogs?
Thank goodness the week I brought my new reactive rescue 7 month old cattle dog home I got COVID. Because I binged on your videos & learned SO much! The long line has made my relationship with my dog incredible! Thanks for the great content😊
I had a student for whom a long lead changed everything with her dog. Her pup paid even MORE attention to Mom when she was given the chance to roam a little and explore. Thanks, Zak, for validating what I teach and for a great demonstration!!
I've been following your videos for a while, and it really hit me how much my dog has moments like 08:48-08:51 when we''re walking. She's not food or treat motivated, but learning "look at me" and using specific "yes" was a total game-changer and she just THRIVED on the verbal reassurance. 4 1/2 yo GSD and totally a great walker on a 16' leash with NO aversive training methods!
Unfortunately, I don't have the kind of trails that allow for a long leash like this (just too crowded), but the Gentle Leader "head collar" was a game changer for my dog. She immediately stopped pulling on the leash and walks with her head up, consistently checking back. It's so much easier to stop and let her do her little sniff breaks when she's not constantly pulling with her head down trying to smell everything.
This really does make a difference. The long leash training has endless possibilities. This video makes me want to out and do more long line with my dog. Look how happy inertia is. Isn’t that what it’s all about? 😀
I’ve been nervous to try long leash in the park with my dog, thinking she would be over excited and unruly, but this makes a lot of sense. I’m excited to try it with her 🐾
Getting a 50’ lead (though not always using all 50 feet) was a GAME👏🏼CHANGER👏🏼 for us. He learned the value of checking in, and more importantly, learned that going outside tethered to me could still be fun. By seven or eight months old that had translated to the six foot leash, and now at almost a year we can use a short hands free leash on our walk/runs!
This video in particular changed EVERYTHING frustrating about walking my 4 month old puppy on a leash!!! The longer lead gives her a chance to be a dog and makes both of us much happier! Then, when we walk the neighborhood with a regular length leash, there actually is SLACK on the leash!!! Unbelievable. I realize how important it is to get her get her energy out in a park on a long lead 2x per day if I can manage it. Thank you Zac!!!
I love how kind your training is… I wish more people were kinder to their pets… I watched a couple other videos, and I could never do that to my buddy… Your methods work, and he is well trained. Thanks to you… Also, he trust me and is happy.
The long leash works great. The only situation I had with our standard poodle puppy (7m) was her taking a running dive into the duck pond at a local park. Fortunately, her recall was good enough to get her to swim back to shore. Such fun wouldn't be possible with a short leash.
Between you and and No Bad Dog Army guy i have always been able to figure out a way to solve communication issues or training habbits i need. Thanks so much for your continued help and diligence.
i stumbled on this method myself while training my ESS pup (now 2.5 y/o) and used it much like you do. I call the long leash his "illusion of freedom" as it gave my pup room to roam. In time I started to shorten the leash length to reinforce previously learned heel command. Soon he would heel without a shorter leash. I'm learning a lot from your embellishments and explanations!
Unfortunately the leash law in Phoenix AZ requires a 6 ft leash for compliance, and some parks enforce this strictly. What I look for are athletic fields and less used parks. I started using a 30 ft lead for feesbie play but also found it beneficial for "free walks" following play or more challenging training at a distance sessions. Works great and my dog is genuinely happy with this kind of training as am I. Thank you Zak.
Also in Phoenix. I worry about snakes and stuff on such a long leash. One time my guy jumped into a cactus and landed on a beehive and we had to run for our lives and we both got stung up. Another time he chased a rabbit into a cactus and I was picking thorns out of him for days.
Ok I downloaded your leash law there and in a park its not 6 foot limit in a park just like I thought.. No dog shall be permitted at large. Each dog shall be confined within an enclosure on the owner’s or custodian’s property, secured so that the dog is confined entirely to the owner’s or custodian’s property, or on a leash not to exceed six feet in length and directly under the owner’s or custodian’s control when not on the owner’s or custodian’s property. The provisions of this subsection shall not apply to a park, or an area within a park, that is designated by the Director or the Parks and Recreation Board as a dog park. Nothing in this section shall prevent the Director or the Parks and Recreation Board from prohibiting dogs or unrestrained dogs in a particular park, preserve or area under its jurisdiction, or any part thereof. B. Any dog over the age of three months which is off the owner’s or custodian’s property shall wear a collar or harness to which is attached a valid license tag. Dogs that are used for control of livestock, being used or trained for hunting or dogs, being exhibited or trained at a kennel club event or engaged in races approved by the Arizona Racing Commission, and while the dogs are being transported to and from such events, need not wear a collar or harness with a valid license attached provided that they are properly vaccinated, licensed and controlled. C. Any owner, custodian, or other person acting for the owner allowing his or her dog to be at large is in violation of this Section.
I watched another dog training video that said long leads were confusing for dogs: they don't know whether they're on a lead or not. However, you make so much sense in this video that I'm converted!
Zach, you're the best trainer out there because you truly respect dogs as beings and you emphasize being present fully as the human who sees and understands his/her dog. Your foundational principles are solid and I know it will stand the test of time. They have helped me so much to become a better human being for our dogs. Thank you!
My 10 month old looks at me, checks in with me and doesn't run too far from me when we do mountain hikes on the long leash 😊 I reward her for checking in. She doesn't pull in the city on a short leash but I think maybe just always letting her smell and follow her curiosity helps with that ❤
It’s all until the leash gets tangled around your feet and the dog pulls you over. 😂 I still have a painful shoulder after 2 months. Be careful people. 😉
the thing I've always prefer to use the 30ft before I seen this video but if you walk it like him you're in trouble you got to make sure the leashes never dragging on the ground one hand hold the other hand rolls the leash constantly keeping the slack from dangling around you have to constantly be paying attention the main reason I I used this leash is because I don't have an ACL and I can't have my dog tug because I have a big dog. So it's kind of got a point but don't do it like he's doing it.
The same with me, in fact just yesterday I almost broke my wrist, she's extremely dog aggressive, really strange since she doesn't care about cats and is also super friendly and social to any human being, sometimes even to friendly in my opinion 😉and of course we saw another dog, a midget jack Russell but still my Amstaf needed to go crazy and I'm still wondering how she did it but my wrist got twisted in such a painful way that I thought It would break, it still hurts alot.
Leave your phone at home and give your dog the undivided attention that they DESERVE! People expect the training to come easy and not have to put any work in….maybe you should get on this guys’ waiting list to help you out. Dog reactivity is a reflection on the owner… And their energy… tune in more with your dog and learn to communicate with them instead of expecting them to read your mind because that is never going to happen …. Dogs deserve much much more than we give them, in exchange for their unconditional love. Do the work, do it for them!
My Doberman on a long line is a recipe for a dislocated shoulder and a dropped leash in the middle of a major city. I think this method may only work in low population areas where the human and dog distractions aren’t present full time. I have used a front clip harness, a gentle leader, implemented rewards for engagement and loose leash walking and rewarded the placement of where I would like him to walk, etc. all of the positive reinforcement based methods that have worked with dozens of other dogs I have trained… they don’t work for my 11 month old Doberman sand he is a powerhouse. Walking him is downright dangerous.
I fixed my dog pulling in one walk. Thanks Garrett Wing!! This Zak guy is a parody. I think about the practical application of his advice in my life and it is hysterical 😂
@@FitmanFattyMiseducated. Prongs are theoretically safer for the dogs neck than a flat collar and harnesses enforce pulling. Please try to actually educate yourself on the actual way to use a prong. All tools can be used, and all tools can be abused. Collars and harnesses have crushed dogs.
I couldn't use a long lead with my dog in an urban or suburban environment either. However ignore the people promoting prong and shock collars. Although they are great if all you're looking for is fear and compliance in your dog.
Very true, my dog struggled a lot with a short line, so we started walking him on a 15 foot leash. He's much better with walking loose lead, and allows him to forge ahead of me and then wait for me to catch up while he sniffs. He even will choose to walk by my side in a lot of instances because he doesn't feel "Stuck" there. Since then I've worked on his shorter leash skills, but the 15 foot is his default. He gets so much more out of our walks that way, and it leads to much better more polite walking in the long run. Granted I have a more independent "primitive" breed, but the more space I give him, the more he seems to want to come back to me and pay attention to me which helps us work together better.
When you are walking him on the 15 foot, what do you do if you come in close encounter to another dog? I am worried that I will end of yanking the long lead to pull mine back in
@@RaveyDavey I have. He can do 6 feet now. I started at 15 and worked back down to six. It was easier to work backwards for him than to start at six and move forward. He needed some maturity + time to acclimate before he understood what was expected. He was about 1 year old when I wrote this, and is now two.
Hmm...do you think that could be because the toy is very simple, while the process of training a dog is . . . well, not that simple? if it were simple, nobody would have poorly behaved dogs. He is thorough and provides a lot of background info to help you understand your dog. Getting the dog to stop pulling on the lead is a process, and processes require time--and time to explain. People love things to be spoonfed to them in one bite, but that's not how it works.
Yeah his methods are as effective as that bed was memory foam lol. Not memory foam and not effective. A lead pulling video with a harness lol. Treats reinforce behaviour sure, but corrections are required if the behaviours are wrong. This just won't work with so many dogs imo.
Zak I gotta comment on one of your videos now... I've watched them for years now, I never owned a dog, but I always wanted to. I own the dog training revolution book as well. Only for the 2nd time in my life I'm having a dog stay with me right now and all of your knowledge helps me soooo much, we're both having a good time! He's an rhodesian ridgeback and through high value treats I actually managed to teach him a new move and also leash pulling is reduced a lot :) I feel confident having my own dog soon because you prepared me so well! Stay calm and don't be a buzzkill to your dog, I head some of your sentences every time I walk him :D
As a dog trainer, I can tell you that this works Brilliantly! I have always used longer leashes and long lines! In fact, the shortest leash I use is 8-10 feet long! Love that you mentioned the Seeking system! Sniffing and exploring is part of how our dogs decompress and activating the Seeking system in our dogs is very calming and relaxing to them! Its essential to there mental well-being and sensory enrichment is essential to fulfilling their needs especially allowinf them to engage in there natural instincts!! Great Share Zak!!👍🏻👍🏻🤗🤗❤❤
I learned from a trainer at our community center so long ago. 25 foot leash (really a 20' rope tied to your leash), choke chain collar, ZERO bribing with food ever, praise for the dog noticing you when turning them around. My Golden Retriever male (~6 mo) got it quickly. My Aussie male (~6 mo) a bit more headstrong, but superior eventually even off leash with complex maneuvers, verbal and very slight hand signals, everyone amazed. Showed a few with out-of-control dogs how, considerably improved after 30 minutes, but humans are the absolute toughest to train, so fails and they gave up. Now 2 Aussie brothers just turning 4 mo, headstrong and growing like weeds. I know exactly how I'll train them, of course separately. Fun!
Thank you for the amazing content! I'm working with my 14 month old pitbull puppy, and have been following your awesome advice since I discovered your RUclips channel when my puppy was just 12 weeks old! I currently use a 50 foot leash with her when we're in an open filed and it's great until she sees a bird or squirrel then she's got a 50 foot run to build up speed while I brace myself for impact... we're still a work in progress 😅.
If you’ve been listening to Zak George for a year and still can’t get your dogs attention away from a squirrel then that means what you’re doing isn’t working. Zak George is a joke and has zero credentials in the dog training world.
Please look into other techniques. You will find out your dog can be much happier much quicker and you will have a better relationship because of it. Find a balanced trainer. please.
Thank you some good advice I have three dogs to walk so it can be quite difficult at times.It’s good that we have a nice big park where my dogs can have a good run in a quiet spot.😊🐾
Thanks for these videos. I've been training my 2 using your videos since March. The progress they've made is unreal. Still not anywhere near the goal, but they are still improving every day.
I am so thrilled to find this confirmation for something that I have just discovered about my own border collie puppy. She usually pulled like CRAZY on the 2 meters long leash but I replaced it with a 10 meter leash and just like that I discovered that what she wanted was to be like a few meters in front of me. That's it. She still pulls sometimes when she gets distracted but the level of pulling and actually practicing pulling has decreased dramatically. I've seen that many trainers and many owners have a very strong and definitive position towards making the dog heel and forcing the walking right behind you and I have been lectured in various ways but I just wanna say that when you have a dog the best thing you can do is be flexible and keep an open mind. Sometimes what seems counterintuitive works best. And there is a lot you discover about the particular behavior of your own dog when you let go a little bit :)
I like this concept. I do think he, (and others) could benefit from Kikopup's "Leash pressure game" though. My dogs leash-pulling improved drastically within a week of introducing the game.
A long line and mixing up the leads I use or how they are attached to the harness make a big difference for my dogs. It's a continual learning process for all of us, mistakes are made we all learn. I've not found any one method that works for all situations but having more tools in you box is really helpful. There were a few new things here I'll add to that box and I'm pleased to see what I'm mostly striving to do is along simular lines. I do a lot of what is shown here, though not as often as I'd like. Why not, well unfortunate we don't have access to open space like shown here that's without multiple distractions. We don't have open ground in general that isn't full of livestock. It's more fields, moorland and hills with livestock, forest, dense undergrowth, streets, lakes all intermixed with people, cars other dogs etc. When we can find space like shown here the training progresses almost exponentially faster. Definitely going to give this a rewatch and check out some of your other videos. Keep up the great work.
I show my students fun ways to teach loose leash walking using a long line all the time. People actually reinforce pulling by pulling back and reeling their dog in, using the leash as a steering wheel and following their dog. Using a long line and rewarding good choices, engaging with their dog, and making leash walking fun, will gradually improve leash skills with a shorter leash too.
Thanks so much 🙏 I could never find a positive methods of training for this topic. Most trainers recommend harsh methods for faster results, but I feel like I'd rather treat this problem for longer period of time than ruin my dog's positive association with me and walks.
I love your videos and I train my husky for 2 years with your approach. What frustrates me a bit, is that all the dogs you are training are so focused on humans. Mine don’t give a sh about humans or me most of the time, she is not food motivated, she does not bring me a ball when we play fetch 😅 She does like to play thought, she grabs the ball and runs around with it 😂 Ireally would like to see how you approach difficult dogs
The husky Is on a whole differenti level kind of breed.. can he be a family dog? Yes, with proper education. Can he be trained to come to You when u do recall him? Yes, with a shitload of time, efforts e patience with the right motivation for him. Can he do obedience ? HELL NO!
Das glaube ich Dir! Die (wenigen) Huskys, die ich bisher kennenlernen durfte, waren allerhöchstens bereit nach dem Motto "und was hab ICH davon?". Aber jedes Tier möchte fressen. Mach das Futter und dich wichtiger. Napf weg, und es gibt nur noch draußen und nur nach Blickkontakt. Für Apportierspiele ebenfalls Tauschgeschäft, und ganz kleine Schritte: Den Ball z.B neu einführen. Wie ein Target. Touch = Markerwort, Blickkontakt zu Dir und dann Futter. Als nächstes Ball berühren und ins Maul nehmen, Markerwort, Blickkontakt, Futter. Angeleint. Dann Ball, Maul, halten, herholen, geben, dafür Futter. Sind ja keine Retriever, keine Malinois, keine Pudel. Mach dich wichtiger. Dein Husky ist ja von dir abhängig. Er möchte das leckere Futter. Spätestens ab dem zweiten Tag, wenn er merkt, es gibt nichts mehr einfach so im Napf. OHNE Ablenkung üben, im Haus, danach im Flur, danach im Garten, danach draußen ohne Ablenkung, danach draußen mit wenig Ablenkung. Es geht an der Leine keinen Schritt weiter ohne dass er zu dir Blickkontakt aufnimmt. Keinen Erfolg, dich irgendwo hinzuziehen. Keine Haustüre öffnet sich ohne Blickkontakt. Es geht nach der Haustüre nicht los ohne Blickkontakt. Du bist das Interessanteste. Mit Dir ist alles toll. Der Husky mit Beissvorgeschichte, den ich in meinen Kofferraum eingeladen bekam (er war von einer Patientin von mir, der ich versprochen hatte, ich kümmere mich um ihren Husky, wenn sie mit meinen Kollegen mit ins Krankenhaus geht) biss mich nur nicht, weil ich den Kofferraum öffnete, das Ende seiner Leine schnappte und ihm erst einmal gab, was jedem Husky gefällt: ich hatte Inliner an und fuhr einfach los in einem ruhigen einsamen Gebiet. Mehrere Kilometer. Übrigens wurde er zwei Jahre später eingeschläfert, da er seine Besitzerin gebissen hatte. Diese hatte ihn stets alles machen lassen, gar keine Erziehung, und nie ein Nein... 97% positive Bestärkung, aber meiner persönlichen Meinung nach braucht es bei manchen Hunden eben auch die anderen 3%. Gib nicht auf
We discovered the long leash method by circumstance . We made long ropes to walk our dogs on our farm. It really is a game changer for walking well on a short leash.
Amazing!!! I put your theory to the test. I just got back from walking my highly reactive gsd, Ollie, on a 30 ft leash- BEST WALK EVER (according to Ollie!). He is well trained and has great recall- I did keep him in a shorter lead as we approached heavier traffic areas. He never let the leash get to the end to pull- he kept running back to check in with me- and get a treat. Bonus- he exercised 4x’s more than I did😅. Then I took my other gsd,Lucy, (a sniffer). She wanted to go visiting people’s homes and gardens! Still it was a great experience for her. Next time I’ll bring higher reward treats to reinforce when she checks in with me. Great day… we will do this definitely several times a week now. Great video and great advice. Thank you!
Can you elaborate? Was he already leash trained? I am going to foster a large dog who pulls and,while good,with dogs I want to train to not pull. When out and about did you dog explore and,come back to you? What about when other,dogs approached?
I would not do this as a first time experience with your foster dog. My dog definitely was already leash trained, and he comes back to me. My other dog, Lucy does not come back to me as well. I do not recommend using it if your dogs are highly reactive and they may encounter Potential reactive situations. So this is a training exercise that Zak suggest using in an area where there are not other people, cars, dogs, etc, I will say that I wasn’t paying attention and my dog Lucy saw another dog and took off. You have absolutely no control with this long leash and she took me down and I seriously injured myself, so she will no longer be on extra long lead in the near future. Good luck!
@@eringoldsmith2677 Thank you for this example and context, it makes great sense to me. Strategies need to be adapted to the dog(s) involved, and dogs that have specific behavior issues need targeted approaches. I also suggest the "Beckman's Dog Training" channel as he specializes in difficult dogs and several of his ideas have worked well for me, like his leash pulling video. He also has great "dog pyschology" tips he shares.
Zack… im going to need you to please demonstrate this in a busy city with busy sidewalks. I dont have the set of twilight’s breaking dawn in my backyard 😂
I got my puppy(16mths)a long lead as i wanted to train her to come.used a ball she obsessed. She ran after another dog .took her ball😮.i said bye seeyou later and walked away.she came back😊.extender leads are great for letting your dog sniff in a built up area.thank you.i could not cope without your training.
This video was one of your most helpful yet. We like to have our dog work on heal and recall training in a safe legal hiking area without a leash. Bureau of Land Management or BLM areas are great for this.
I use a regular length leash and a collar when I am walking in the street. It gives me more control. But I use a longer 10ft leash and a harnass when I am in a forest or moorland where I want to give my dog the freedom and there are no people, vehicles and other things to navigate through. I learned that his leash behavior as a pup improved on the long leash much quicker than on the shorter leash. Which took another 6 months of training or so.
This is an awesome video! I love how Zak explains concepts in such a way that is so easy to understand. And I love that he always emphasizes the importance of pet owners doing their part - it’s not just the dogs who need work. I always look forward to new videos!
My wife adopted an extremely reactive five year old German Shepherd. This dog is reactive to all other creatures including birds and insects. After the dog almost pulled her shoulder out of its socket, I suggested a prong collar. She thought it was cruel, but I told her she could put it around my neck and tug on it before she put it on the dog. She did that. If it could be done to me without harm, it could be done to the dog. She tugged. I barked. I then showed her how to fit the collar way up next to the dog's ears and how to do a correction with it. In a few days, the pulling was 85% corrected. This dog will NEVER become habituated because our two acre property has 14 semi-feral cats (all neutered and vaccinated) hanging around, and I would never risk walking in the park where there are other dogs because this dog was bitten by a pit bull when she was younger which is what made her so reactive to dogs. Luckily, she is not reactive to humans, but very friendly. In our living room we're trying to teach her to look at us with cheese as a treat.
I am having real challenge with my 1 yo bichon frise pulling and lunging on lead. I also have a senior dog who is slow so walking both at the same time is a nihgtmare. I think I get your concept and it definitey challenged my assumption of using short lead to train is more effective mindset. Will give this a go. Thank you for sharing.
Pinch collar and 6ft leash. Took 15 minutes to get my Pitbull to stop pulling. She walks perfectly now. Used the same technique on a Doberman. It works.
This is a deeply encouraging video! I'm at the end of my rope with my 11-month-old puppy who pulls and sniffs constantly. I've actually used the long lead to play fetch with him outside, but not to actually walk him (I switch from the short to the long). I'll start walking him with the long lead and practicing my commands more often. I'm very encouraged! Thank you Zak!
I've, with success, used retractable leeshes on various dogs for the last 25 years at least, despite disapprovals from dog trainers and know-it-all's. I prefer using commands to control dogs, keeping tugging the leesh as a last resort. My present dog, relocated to me 18 months ago, was most likely raised on a 2 metre leesh, which has made him pace, even off leesh. I've recently seen him trot twice, so there's hope yet. So now that we can mostly walk alongside the road without him lunging towards every passing car, I may be able to take it a step further. Cycling comes to mind. When I got him, he had a fit every time he saw or heard a car, even at long distance, wanting to chase in its general direction. I'll leave out his other behavioural flaws for now, just stating that he has huge issues. Not sure if I'm in over my head on this one. Progress is very slow. His constantly arched back and tail tucked firmly between his legs have long since passed, his mouth clappering and paw licking are becoming less frequent, I hope I'm doing something right.
Hi zak, I've seen/heard of a lot of trainers not recommending fetch because it increases stress in the dog, obviously you seem to have a different opinion. Can you do a video addressing the opinions? I feel it causes confusion. Many thanks
I've been working on leash training my Australian cattle dog since bringing him home last August. This video explains the process SO MUCH BETTER than any other resource I've used, and I've recently started doing some of these off-leash or long-leash techniques with my dog and it's been going well! However, I still have to walk him regularly to get exercise, and he pulls HARD on a standard walk. I've been using a gentle leader with him for our longer walks which really helps prevent the pulling and keeps a much looser leash. I guess I'm just wondering what other people in training are doing to still take your dog on walks, even when they're not fully leash trained to walk politely on a leash? My concern is that he'll not associate what we're learning in the back yard on his long line to actual walks, because we only do actual walks with the gentle leader.
120# rescue leash reactive GSD/Great Pyrenees long line used for teaching recall. Long lines don't always improve a puller usually gives them a good head of steam with hard stop at the end or dragging handler 6 foot leash with appropriate corrections not dragging him back. Watching his body language as soon as you notice he's building correct him 2 or 3 appropriate correction BEFORE he explodes has the dog engage on handler interrupts the drive impulse and treat/praise provides incentive to continue the correct behavior.
My collie that I've had for 3 weeks is great in everyday apart from he is scared of traffic on the road that moves fast. He was a farm dog that spent most of his time in a barn. Trying my best to get him used to it slowly at a distance from the traffic
Would like to mention, very important you check your local cities leash laws. For example, in Toronto you can't have your dog on a long line. Leash must be no longer than 2 m (6 ft). Except for the off leash parks which are out of control in this city and a complete nightmare in some places. So it does make it challenging to work your dog like this. I've gotten dirty looks from passersby's when I've had my dog on a Flexi lead in the park. I now know why.
Herm Sprenger 2.25 Prong Collar will fix leash pulling in less than 2 minutes Works like mom’s teeth whenever she goes to nip at her puppies whenever they misbehave or do something she doesn’t like. Sometimes other dogs can also be great teachers when it comes to manners.
Yes, this was exactly the case with my 3 month old Belgian Malinois female. Now she walks with me with very few collar corrections. She does better on regular collars too, out of habit. Sometimes I use a gentle leader collar and that has its positives as well. Robert Cabral has one rule I like: "Always be fair to your dog". Sometimes it takes a little extra thinking to figure out how to apply it to given situations. I think in this case, "letting your dog just be a dog, and sniff and run and explore" a good chunk of the time is "fair". For me, the goal is to get to where corrective collars are unnecessary, as the dog gets older, understands expectations better, and, because of her relationship with her owners, wants to please her "pack" of people.
This type of training approach is great for smaller dogs. My dog is 20 pounds or so, and the long leash works great for him, but if he was a very high energy 90 pound German Shepherd, then I would probably suffer lower back pain or a dislocated shoulder as the dog would not be satisfied with just 30 feet of leash and would pull me with tremendous force when he runs out of leash! What you’re doing is ideal for off leash dog parks. But 2 rules must be followed at off leash dog parks: 1) Your dog has to come when you call his or her name, and 2) You can’t take your dog to off leash dog parks if your dog behaves aggressively toward other dogs.
Thank you so so much! I live downunder in New Zealand with a full off energy, English springer spaniel, cross with miniature poodle, turn off, been trying to train for months but because of a permanent disability (severe traumatic brain injury) I find it frustrating trying to train him and myself before I get to mentally fatigued. I’m lucky to have plenty of places with space that work for a long lead . Did I say thank you very much?
I use a three foot leash for collar walking otherwise I got the leash stuck underneath his legs way to often, if I’m using a harness I use a long line. I like going to the off leash meadows and forest trails and he really enjoys it, he’s about a year and a half old and he’s really starting to figure out what we expect from him in those environments, so he doesn’t go running off into the distance without checking in every once in a while. I have the biothane 1/4” rope leash with the brass fixings, I like how it’s waterproof and it doesn’t get dirty as easily as the other leashes we’ve tried.
I've bought a long leash because of you, it has been super helpful as my dog loves to sniff 😀 she still pulls and might be too reactive when other dogs come near but so far she's catching on and that's what matters ❤
My poodle learned to not pull in 30 minutes with a prong collar. We have since moved on from that tool but if you want faster results try the prong collar.
@@mightymidas2021 if you tried explaining what is barbaric about using a prong collar to my poodle, he would not care. He cares about pleasing me and the collar heightened our ability to communicate. Be logical. Helping my dog learn is my goal and NOT harming him.
A lot to think about here... I like the dog psychology models presented and want to incorporate most parts of them. I had to go to a prong collar to get my strong-willed 3 month female Belgian Malinois to walk with me without sled dog pulling the whole time. (she's 4.5 months now) I noticed that as a common theme among Malinois owners. Instantly, on the prong collar, she adapted and walking became enjoyable for the human again. Now I've gone to a longer-line retractable, with significant chunks of the walk giving her freedom to sniff and explore, where it's safe. She's figured out exactly how long she can sniff and explore on the 16 and 25 foot retractables, and she mostly knows how to avoid wrapping the leash around light posts and such. I want to move away from the prong collar as she gets better and better at consistently checking in with me. She does LOVE walks and gets excited when the walking leash comes out. She is amazing now at walking with me and checking in constantly in situations that demand it, e.g. walking on the sidewalk next to a busy street. I do try to give her some freedom to sniff and use the full length of the line for a good chunk of our 2-mile walk. At the 1 mile mark there is a fenced dog park, so she goes off leash there and meets other dogs, and then we RUN a mile back to the house. She's also a swim-fetching fiend, and will fetch again and again swimming from one end of the pool to fetch, and returning with the toy. This dog is teaching her humans so much...
The hardest part for us now is that we have a 9 month old puppy and a grown bigger dog. Their leads get tangled so much and that is a struggle 😂 I find myself either walking them separate or on a shorter lead which causes the younger dog to pull more. 😅(halfway through the video so you might have an answer for me) and also the leads get soo dirty and wet here lol 😂
This is the video that introduced me to Zac George and I worked at several zoos and big cat rescues who use dominance training which I didn’t think was the best way. People who think a dominant dog needs dominance training are not looking at both sides. Try this it works. Do you want your dog to love you or just respect you?
Nice. Points well taken. However, in San Diego, it is "illegal" for me to walk my dog on any leash more than 6 feet. Instead I attach the leash to the ring on the front of her chest (rather than top of her back), and her pulling behaviors automatically decrease by 95%.
In my urban environment, a 30-ft leash is laughably impractical. The solution: a headcollar, e.g. "Gentle Leader." My mutt Homer pulled like a sled dog until I tried a headcollar: problem solved, almost immediately. I still let him sniff around pretty much wherever he wants to on our walks, but when we're moving forward, he never pulls; he mostly walks just ahead of me or right beside me, at my left knee. Best $15 I ever spent.
" We have to make sure that our dogs are on a leash, so that they can stay safe....but we're not using it as a communication device ! "( 9:30sec. ) Brilliant. This comment hit me like a ton of bricks. It just changed my entire outlook on my training. Thank you.
Had a 2 or 3 year old rescue lurcher for three months now... and you'd need a two mile long line!! She comes on the whistle unless potential prey spotted, in which case forget recall!
I found teaching "wait" and to cross behind me if he wants to swap sides has been key for me. That way if he wants to get where he is going, he has to slow down.
We have a reactive pup, and use a short handle clipped to the harness along with the long line. The long line has been such a vital part of our training journey, as it’s helped him gain confidence at his own pace. Can’t say enough good things about it! We’ve learned the hard way to use the short handle during transitionary points like loading/unloading, as our pup has a tendency to just bolt at things he’s afraid of.
This would have made leash training for my high drive Belgian Tervuren much easier if I knew about it when he was a puppy! I'll definitely remember this for my next dog!
love this video thanks for sharing, im watching this in December 2023, blessings to you and your crew for the rest of 2023 and going beyond in the future, you gained another SUB,
I love your videos and got a long leash however my six month old puppy ran so fast thinking she was free to run then ran back and wrapped the leash around my ankles and I fell over. Not great for my 71 year old bones! However I will rethink it when she is out of her puppy stage.
While I can use a long lead at home, almost all places we go for walks, it is required to use 6ft or shorter leash (mostly walking parks and trails). Even with using 5-6ft leash, we have made huge progress in stopping pulling. I do often hear that "harnesses cause pulling," but I think that was an issue with miscommunication. According to my vet, "harnesses make it easier to pull." That is what makes sense to me. I am glad to see you are putting out more long form videos again.
I think harnesses reward pulling. It's like barking, it feels good and a harness doesn't have the choking implications of a collar. As pulling increases, the dog gets stronger.
@@TheMatthooksthe harness doesn’t reward pulling! 😅 the act of walking forward is what is reinforced. If your statement was true, the dog would instantly stop pulling when on a collar! Does it??
Yes, harnesses make it easier for dog to pull and thus move forward, which is the reward (reinforcement), although there are some harnesses that are designed to mitigate pulling. Allowing a dog to move while pulling is not good. Pulling is OK if human is stationary because dog will figure out it doesn't work. 😅
I followed Zak from the beginning and have been doing exactly this since my dog was 11mo old. He’s now 2. He just wants to get to the end of the long leash and pull. We do play and he comes back and his recall is excellent, but he still wants to get to the end of the leash and pull just like it was a 6’ leash.
I agree. Teaching loose leash walk through months of training is simply a joke. Not to give rules and boundaries, only rewarding is a joke. Your dog must understand what he can and can’t do. You must communicate both. Not because you want to hurt your dog, but because you love him and you don’t want him, you and other owners and dogs to be in danger next to you.
Did I miss the part where he fixed the pulling or showed pulling at the start then not pulling at the end? Is this all just hypothetical unicorn farts?
I don’t recall how Kenny and I figured out off leash walks. We spent tons of time together, it was pretty organic. One thing I incorporated when he was ranging ahead 100 feet on a gravel road was to stop abruptly, making noise on the gravel. I’d kneel and open my arms out wide. I’d say “come here baby” or I wouldn’t say anything, but he came back every time because he knew he was going to get a big fat hug and kiss.
I teach Heelwork with no leash from the beginning, i do Competition Obedience, as well as camp with my dogs When out in public, ( stores, public sidewalks, downtown, I use a 6 ft lead. 16ft flexis have a place but most people don't use them properly and let them have free reign of that leaf in the store.
Found this channel a little while ago after adopting our new rescue puppy. I have been following George's training method for a while now and the results are actually incredible. Our 5 month old Kelpie can sit, stay, lay down, roll over, speak, leave things alone and return in almost any situation, he's still not great on the lead yet but i feel like thats probably a me thing. Consistency and compassion are key. We have a long way to go still, but enjoying every part of it.
Hmmm, this is exactly the opposite of what other trainers teach us. We have chihuahuas who are adorable but tough to train on leash to prevent pulling, and backing up out of their harnesses because of fear. They're afraid of grass, cars, other dogs, people. So we have a more challenging situation. Short leashes DO work, but in certain circumstances. They are sometimes better just dragging their leashes when in a safe environment. But we keep at it by walking, walking, walking and desensitizing them in some ways and socializing them.
I organized the information from the video because it was a little hard to follow. Hope this helps anyone! *Why do dogs pull on leashes?* Dogs naturally walk faster than we do and have a very strong seeking system that encourages them to be curious and explore! Pulling on leashes can also often be self-rewarding. They pull, the human follows and they learn that pulling works. In short, dogs are curious and self-reward when pulling *What should you not do when training your dog to not pull?* You might be tempted to then simply never follow your dog when they pull but anyone who tried to do that knows it doesn't quite work. You shouldn't use short leashes unless necessary because while they're great for keeping your dog safe in busy spaces, it forces them to walk at an unnaturally slow pace, frustration them and leading to more pulling *How do you address this?* (I had to take some liberties on what he is saying because it honestly didn't make much sense) You're going to want to start using use a 30-foot leash as often as possible and training your dog to naturally come back to you using games like fetch. As your dog spends energy, they'll start becoming easier to walk with and might even stick near you without prompt, check in with you, glance at you or make the choice to place their attention on you instead of a distraction. these are all great signs and should be automatically rewarded with something they enjoy whether food, a toy or just letting them sniff around some more! As you do this and reward the behaviours on a long leash, it will become more likely for them to do the desired behavior even on a shorter leash. *Any ideas on where I can train my dog?* If you can't access a training location for financial or personal reasons you might have to think outside the box a little bit. As a rule of thumb, you want the space to be large enough so that your dog can explore but not overwhelmingly busy or crowded. I reccomended training in public spaces in off-peak hours when things are more quiet. Community centers, religious buildings, offices, apartments and schools often have unused open space at certain times of day. If you're comfortable with it cemeteries are often open to dogs and are very peaceful places to train. *I'm not getting any results despite doing it for weeks! What's going on?* If your dog is still extremely reactive during sessions, exercising them beforehand can be useful. Ask yourself if you're still actively working on the prerequisite commands (look at me, come here, sit, leave it). You might be expecting too much too early. Measure your progress and give yourself credit! Changing environment can be useful. Try going to a calmer place. In conclusion, dogs pull because they're curious and explorers. To help your dog not pull you need to help satisfy their desire to explore and build a stronger communication with them. This can be done by going to a large, calm open space (public parcs on cloudy days or fields for example) with your dog on a 30-foot leash and playing games such as fetch to improve recall. Reward behaviors like glacing towards you and walking next to you on their own. If your dog isn't following you at all in the sessions after several weeks of training you might want to exercise them beforehand, switch method of reward/place and measure your progress to see if your dog is really not improving or you're impatient
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
I love that there is no other person or dog in that huge field. No-one to get tangled up with.
Anchorage, Alaska!!! ❤
I have been using thisas a handy reference book ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGQVgV21bQ7B9b9duQ1ByImyT9xHbjOKq . I read through the book and enjoyed the little glimpses of examples. I love that this author believes in rescue dogs. The tips and training has been invaluable and gave me moments of.... "how simple why didn't i think of it" so it's been a great tool. Thank you!
oxytocin.
I just want to thank the two little old ladies who used to teach dog obedience at one of our local parks, through a Parks Dept program. I learned so much from those women. AND their philosophy mirrored a lot of what I'm seeing here in this vid. Two things I learned from those ladies and two things I think everyone should know are 1) Be consistent and 2) Always praise/reward good behavior. My dogs are well-exercised, almost to the point of exhaustion, and they do well off-leash. I can tell you: One of the most satisfying things to hear is when other dog walkers and pedestrians tell you, about your dog, "What a good dog! Such a happy dog." Yep. It takes time and effort and consistency and praise to establish that bond. Is there anything better than having a well-trained and super happy dog?
A few criticisms or additions!
This video is good in its description of positive reinforcement, use of long lines for training and exercises for building strong relationships and drive with your dog.
However, I don’t think there’s anything I saw that actually suggested 6ft loose leash training exercises.
The most success I’ve had is teaching both equipment cues and repetitive boring loose leash walking.
Generally the exercise goes like this:-
1. Put a harness on your dog that has at least 2 lead connection points (one on the back clip and one on the front chest clip)
2. Start to understand that when the lead is connected to the front chest clip you want nothing but loose leash (next to you and not pulling) walking. I differentiate loose leash from heeling as with some heeling there are more expectations like the dog looking at you or being in a particular walking gait. And equally when the lead is on the back clip the dog can gently pull (within reason) or go over to a sniff etc (more free roam).
3. Front clip loose leash walking exercises should be extremely short e.g. a minute and done up and down the same spot to avoid introducing novelty and distractions. Don’t expect to ‘go for a walk’ and train loose leash walking.
4. In each exercise you are looking to walk forwards and have the dog by your side. Saying words of encouragement (just talking) can help your dog with engagement and focus.
5. If your dogs back legs go ahead of your legs then they are no longer by your side. When this happens allow the dog to continue walking forwards to the end of the lead. Now you start walking backwards (still facing forwards - like back peddling) and gently add pressure in the lead whilst doing this. Eventually your dog will realise and walk back towards you. When they reach you reset them by your side and continue walking forwards.
5. Repeat repeat repeat. Eventually your dog will learn the reward of ‘going forwards’ only happens by your side.
6. By keeping training sessions short and associating this ‘you must be next to me’ behavior when the lead is attached to front clip you start to give the dog expectations of how to behave.
7. Give your dog breaks from expected behavior by moving the lead from front clip to back clop (free roam). You can actually start to associate a command with this switchover like ‘go sniff’. This will equally give your dog time to stop focusing, reflect on what’s been learnt, rewarded with free roam and avoid frustration. You may actually find that you get to a point where moving from front clip to back clip your dog does like a burst of mania. This is good! It means your dog has learnt and been restraining their excitement/urges when in front clip.
7. I can’t emphasise enough the importance of short sessions. Expect nice waking for a few seconds. When dog walks in front, back peddle and reset. Try to walk forwards again. Repeat. Repeat. Try short exercises like walking a distance of 5, 10 or 15 metres on loose leash and start to track if there is a reduction in the number of times you need to reset your dog.
8. By slowly incrementing distance and time of sessions you’ll find your dog will walk on the front clip lead cue with loose leash behaviors for multiple minutes, then tens of minutes etc.
9. You can use equipment cues to set behaviors e.g. you get to a busy junction, you go inside a shop and attach front clip to indicate to your dog that you want them closer to you with nice loose leash walking. It really helps with traffic management!
How is this not pinned?
I fixed my dog pulling in 1 walk. Thanks Garrett Wing. I don't have time for this silly nonsense.
Thank you!
@@haveablessedday7746each to their own. Personally watching the video you mentioned there’s just a stuff I would never choose to use including prong collars and ‘leash popping’.
Doing that alone is not really teaching the dog - it’s just suppressing their behavior so they don’t do it as opposed to them LEARNING what is a preferred behavior. The reason learning takes so long is because it requires the dog to LEARN, create new habits and form/ reform its previous behavior.
In fact the danger with ‘learning’ through a leash pop is that it leads to a chance of pairing the physical correction with an environmental variable. ‘I got corrected…. There was a dog near me when my neck was jolted… perhaps I should stay away from other dogs to avoid that feeling again’. Theres a propensity here to actually create anxiety and fear in dogs or at the very
least trigger stacking.
Garret also combined his prong and leash corrections with positive reinforcement (he gave his dog treats) in the same session. There’s probably a whole lot of conflict that possibly might be building in the dog: corrections and treats…
If you read any studies as opposed to entrenched old ‘theories’ (archaic pack theory, old fashioned military methods) or watch some RUclips video lie titled: ‘change your dog in 10 minutes’…you’ll realise this is all scientifically backed.
And I’m backing it from my own experience (and before the comments start… I’ve had success with this approach with big dogs like a 40kg Doberman).
The challenge is everyone wants a ‘quick fix’ and equally I don’t think THIS video was that informative of a structured and repeatable set of methods to realise this. Hence my detailed comment. It takes months to train loose leash and then to proof it for all the novelty that new environments can bring.
Quick fixes don’t happen elsewhere in life - I don’t hire a private tutor for my child and expect them to then be Albert Einstein overnight… why do we then expect immediate change for our dogs?
@@DobDobDobDob not my experience. Thanks Garrett Wing! Why does it always seem like the longer a person's reply the more full of it they appear.
Thank goodness the week I brought my new reactive rescue 7 month old cattle dog home I got COVID. Because I binged on your videos & learned SO much! The long line has made my relationship with my dog incredible! Thanks for the great content😊
yes always a bright side to our life challenges.. If what does not kill us makes us stronger we hope
I had a student for whom a long lead changed everything with her dog. Her pup paid even MORE attention to Mom when she was given the chance to roam a little and explore. Thanks, Zak, for validating what I teach and for a great demonstration!!
I've been following your videos for a while, and it really hit me how much my dog has moments like 08:48-08:51 when we''re walking. She's not food or treat motivated, but learning "look at me" and using specific "yes" was a total game-changer and she just THRIVED on the verbal reassurance. 4 1/2 yo GSD and totally a great walker on a 16' leash with NO aversive training methods!
Unfortunately, I don't have the kind of trails that allow for a long leash like this (just too crowded), but the Gentle Leader "head collar" was a game changer for my dog. She immediately stopped pulling on the leash and walks with her head up, consistently checking back. It's so much easier to stop and let her do her little sniff breaks when she's not constantly pulling with her head down trying to smell everything.
This really does make a difference. The long leash training has endless possibilities. This video makes me want to out and do more long line with my dog.
Look how happy inertia is. Isn’t that what it’s all about? 😀
No
I’ve been nervous to try long leash in the park with my dog, thinking she would be over excited and unruly, but this makes a lot of sense. I’m excited to try it with her 🐾
Getting a 50’ lead (though not always using all 50 feet) was a GAME👏🏼CHANGER👏🏼 for us. He learned the value of checking in, and more importantly, learned that going outside tethered to me could still be fun. By seven or eight months old that had translated to the six foot leash, and now at almost a year we can use a short hands free leash on our walk/runs!
This video in particular changed EVERYTHING frustrating about walking my 4 month old puppy on a leash!!! The longer lead gives her a chance to be a dog and makes both of us much happier! Then, when we walk the neighborhood with a regular length leash, there actually is SLACK on the leash!!! Unbelievable. I realize how important it is to get her get her energy out in a park on a long lead 2x per day if I can manage it. Thank you Zac!!!
Love this.
I love how kind your training is… I wish more people were kinder to their pets… I watched a couple other videos, and I could never do that to my buddy… Your methods work, and he is well trained. Thanks to you… Also, he trust me and is happy.
The long leash works great. The only situation I had with our standard poodle puppy (7m) was her taking a running dive into the duck pond at a local park. Fortunately, her recall was good enough to get her to swim back to shore. Such fun wouldn't be possible with a short leash.
Long leashes/tether leads can be got at places that sell horse equipment. Usually much cheaper than pet stores.
Between you and and No Bad Dog Army guy i have always been able to figure out a way to solve communication issues or training habbits i need. Thanks so much for your continued help and diligence.
No bad dog guy makes this guy look like a clown.
Zak George is one of the best trainers on youtube!! Love positive training!
I appreciate that!
How exactly is he the best? He just told people to train fearful dogs in a cemetery to avoid real life. That is awful advice.
@@jdrankwalter that is a straw man representation of my point.
He really is!
@@zakgeorgeyou are the snake oil salesman of dog trainers. Let's both take our dogs into a city festival and see what happens.
i stumbled on this method myself while training my ESS pup (now 2.5 y/o) and used it much like you do. I call the long leash his "illusion of freedom" as it gave my pup room to roam. In time I started to shorten the leash length to reinforce previously learned heel command. Soon he would heel without a shorter leash. I'm learning a lot from your embellishments and explanations!
Unfortunately the leash law in Phoenix AZ requires a 6 ft leash for compliance, and some parks enforce this strictly. What I look for are athletic fields and less used parks. I started using a 30 ft lead for feesbie play but also found it beneficial for "free walks" following play or more challenging training at a distance sessions. Works great and my dog is genuinely happy with this kind of training as am I. Thank you Zak.
Also in Phoenix. I worry about snakes and stuff on such a long leash. One time my guy jumped into a cactus and landed on a beehive and we had to run for our lives and we both got stung up. Another time he chased a rabbit into a cactus and I was picking thorns out of him for days.
a park does not require a 6 foot leash only a leash. I have never heard of this before. Are you sure?
Ok I downloaded your leash law there and in a park its not 6 foot limit in a park just like I thought..
No dog shall be permitted at large. Each dog shall be confined within an enclosure on the owner’s or
custodian’s property, secured so that the dog is confined entirely to the owner’s or custodian’s property, or on a
leash not to exceed six feet in length and directly under the owner’s or custodian’s control when not on the
owner’s or custodian’s property. The provisions of this subsection shall not apply to a park, or an area within a
park, that is designated by the Director or the Parks and Recreation Board as a dog park. Nothing in this section
shall prevent the Director or the Parks and Recreation Board from prohibiting dogs or unrestrained dogs in a
particular park, preserve or area under its jurisdiction, or any part thereof.
B. Any dog over the age of three months which is off the owner’s or custodian’s property shall wear a collar or
harness to which is attached a valid license tag. Dogs that are used for control of livestock, being used or trained
for hunting or dogs, being exhibited or trained at a kennel club event or engaged in races approved by the Arizona
Racing Commission, and while the dogs are being transported to and from such events, need not wear a collar or
harness with a valid license attached provided that they are properly vaccinated, licensed and controlled.
C. Any owner, custodian, or other person acting for the owner allowing his or her dog to be at large is in violation
of this Section.
In Phoenix area and people walk without leashes. Therefore, I can't walk mine legally .
Look for an old cemetery where nobody visits anymore and that is where we go to do training and off-leash work especially when it's fenced in
I watched another dog training video that said long leads were confusing for dogs: they don't know whether they're on a lead or not. However, you make so much sense in this video that I'm converted!
Zach, you're the best trainer out there because you truly respect dogs as beings and you emphasize being present fully as the human who sees and understands his/her dog. Your foundational principles are solid and I know it will stand the test of time. They have helped me so much to become a better human being for our dogs. Thank you!
My 10 month old looks at me, checks in with me and doesn't run too far from me when we do mountain hikes on the long leash 😊 I reward her for checking in. She doesn't pull in the city on a short leash but I think maybe just always letting her smell and follow her curiosity helps with that ❤
are you saying you smell good or you stink that she likes. lol
It’s all until the leash gets tangled around your feet and the dog pulls you over. 😂 I still have a painful shoulder after 2 months. Be careful people. 😉
Well, the “positive only” cult always has a gimmick, and none of them work.
@FitmanFattyNot if your dog is a Maltese !
the thing I've always prefer to use the 30ft before I seen this video but if you walk it like him you're in trouble you got to make sure the leashes never dragging on the ground one hand hold the other hand rolls the leash constantly keeping the slack from dangling around you have to constantly be paying attention the main reason I I used this leash is because I don't have an ACL and I can't have my dog tug because I have a big dog. So it's kind of got a point but don't do it like he's doing it.
The same with me, in fact just yesterday I almost broke my wrist, she's extremely dog aggressive, really strange since she doesn't care about cats and is also super friendly and social to any human being, sometimes even to friendly in my opinion 😉and of course we saw another dog, a midget jack Russell but still my Amstaf needed to go crazy and I'm still wondering how she did it but my wrist got twisted in such a painful way that I thought It would break, it still hurts alot.
Leave your phone at home and give your dog the undivided attention that they DESERVE!
People expect the training to come easy and not have to put any work in….maybe you should get on this guys’ waiting list to help you out.
Dog reactivity is a reflection on the owner… And their energy… tune in more with your dog and learn to communicate with them instead of expecting them to read your mind because that is never going to happen ….
Dogs deserve much much more than we give them, in exchange for their unconditional love. Do the work, do it for them!
Love that you brought up the cognitive function of smelling! So important especially as they get older! Sniff walks are everything!
My Doberman on a long line is a recipe for a dislocated shoulder and a dropped leash in the middle of a major city. I think this method may only work in low population areas where the human and dog distractions aren’t present full time. I have used a front clip harness, a gentle leader, implemented rewards for engagement and loose leash walking and rewarded the placement of where I would like him to walk, etc. all of the positive reinforcement based methods that have worked with dozens of other dogs I have trained… they don’t work for my 11 month old Doberman sand he is a powerhouse. Walking him is downright dangerous.
It's really that simple? Balance training.. prong collar + rewards.. and the job Is done in 1 day only..
I fixed my dog pulling in one walk. Thanks Garrett Wing!! This Zak guy is a parody. I think about the practical application of his advice in my life and it is hysterical 😂
@@FitmanFattyMiseducated. Prongs are theoretically safer for the dogs neck than a flat collar and harnesses enforce pulling. Please try to actually educate yourself on the actual way to use a prong. All tools can be used, and all tools can be abused. Collars and harnesses have crushed dogs.
you are absolutely right
I couldn't use a long lead with my dog in an urban or suburban environment either. However ignore the people promoting prong and shock collars. Although they are great if all you're looking for is fear and compliance in your dog.
Very true, my dog struggled a lot with a short line, so we started walking him on a 15 foot leash. He's much better with walking loose lead, and allows him to forge ahead of me and then wait for me to catch up while he sniffs. He even will choose to walk by my side in a lot of instances because he doesn't feel "Stuck" there. Since then I've worked on his shorter leash skills, but the 15 foot is his default. He gets so much more out of our walks that way, and it leads to much better more polite walking in the long run. Granted I have a more independent "primitive" breed, but the more space I give him, the more he seems to want to come back to me and pay attention to me which helps us work together better.
When you are walking him on the 15 foot, what do you do if you come in close encounter to another dog? I am worried that I will end of yanking the long lead to pull mine back in
@@varneyvictoria i walk up the line to him and put him in between my knees! The long line is easier to wrap around my hand and walk up to him
@@RaveyDavey I have. He can do 6 feet now. I started at 15 and worked back down to six. It was easier to work backwards for him than to start at six and move forward. He needed some maturity + time to acclimate before he understood what was expected. He was about 1 year old when I wrote this, and is now two.
He describes the toy box ad better than how to stop leash pulling
same thought, haha
Hmm...do you think that could be because the toy is very simple, while the process of training a dog is . . . well, not that simple? if it were simple, nobody would have poorly behaved dogs. He is thorough and provides a lot of background info to help you understand your dog. Getting the dog to stop pulling on the lead is a process, and processes require time--and time to explain. People love things to be spoonfed to them in one bite, but that's not how it works.
Yeah his methods are as effective as that bed was memory foam lol. Not memory foam and not effective. A lead pulling video with a harness lol.
Treats reinforce behaviour sure, but corrections are required if the behaviours are wrong.
This just won't work with so many dogs imo.
Zak I gotta comment on one of your videos now... I've watched them for years now, I never owned a dog, but I always wanted to. I own the dog training revolution book as well. Only for the 2nd time in my life I'm having a dog stay with me right now and all of your knowledge helps me soooo much, we're both having a good time! He's an rhodesian ridgeback and through high value treats I actually managed to teach him a new move and also leash pulling is reduced a lot :) I feel confident having my own dog soon because you prepared me so well! Stay calm and don't be a buzzkill to your dog, I head some of your sentences every time I walk him :D
Thank you!
As a dog trainer, I can tell you that this works Brilliantly! I have always used longer leashes and long lines! In fact, the shortest leash I use is 8-10 feet long! Love that you mentioned the Seeking system! Sniffing and exploring is part of how our dogs decompress and activating the Seeking system in our dogs is very calming and relaxing to them! Its essential to there mental well-being and sensory enrichment is essential to fulfilling their needs especially allowinf them to engage in there natural instincts!! Great Share Zak!!👍🏻👍🏻🤗🤗❤❤
Zak - I've been watching you for years. This is your best video to date. Thank you. 👍
I learned from a trainer at our community center so long ago. 25 foot leash (really a 20' rope tied to your leash), choke chain collar, ZERO bribing with food ever, praise for the dog noticing you when turning them around. My Golden Retriever male (~6 mo) got it quickly. My Aussie male (~6 mo) a bit more headstrong, but superior eventually even off leash with complex maneuvers, verbal and very slight hand signals, everyone amazed. Showed a few with out-of-control dogs how, considerably improved after 30 minutes, but humans are the absolute toughest to train, so fails and they gave up. Now 2 Aussie brothers just turning 4 mo, headstrong and growing like weeds. I know exactly how I'll train them, of course separately. Fun!
Thank you for the amazing content! I'm working with my 14 month old pitbull puppy, and have been following your awesome advice since I discovered your RUclips channel when my puppy was just 12 weeks old! I currently use a 50 foot leash with her when we're in an open filed and it's great until she sees a bird or squirrel then she's got a 50 foot run to build up speed while I brace myself for impact... we're still a work in progress 😅.
If you’ve been listening to Zak George for a year and still can’t get your dogs attention away from a squirrel then that means what you’re doing isn’t working. Zak George is a joke and has zero credentials in the dog training world.
Please look into other techniques. You will find out your dog can be much happier much quicker and you will have a better relationship because of it. Find a balanced trainer. please.
Thank you some good advice I have three dogs to walk so it can be quite difficult at times.It’s good that we have a nice big park where my dogs can have a good run in a quiet spot.😊🐾
Thanks for these videos. I've been training my 2 using your videos since March. The progress they've made is unreal. Still not anywhere near the goal, but they are still improving every day.
Have you tried it? I have and it works. Lol😂
I am so thrilled to find this confirmation for something that I have just discovered about my own border collie puppy. She usually pulled like CRAZY on the 2 meters long leash but I replaced it with a 10 meter leash and just like that I discovered that what she wanted was to be like a few meters in front of me. That's it. She still pulls sometimes when she gets distracted but the level of pulling and actually practicing pulling has decreased dramatically. I've seen that many trainers and many owners have a very strong and definitive position towards making the dog heel and forcing the walking right behind you and I have been lectured in various ways but I just wanna say that when you have a dog the best thing you can do is be flexible and keep an open mind. Sometimes what seems counterintuitive works best. And there is a lot you discover about the particular behavior of your own dog when you let go a little bit :)
I like this concept. I do think he, (and others) could benefit from Kikopup's "Leash pressure game" though. My dogs leash-pulling improved drastically within a week of introducing the game.
i love the way you deal with the dogs.
A long line and mixing up the leads I use or how they are attached to the harness make a big difference for my dogs. It's a continual learning process for all of us, mistakes are made we all learn.
I've not found any one method that works for all situations but having more tools in you box is really helpful. There were a few new things here I'll add to that box and I'm pleased to see what I'm mostly striving to do is along simular lines.
I do a lot of what is shown here, though not as often as I'd like. Why not, well unfortunate we don't have access to open space like shown here that's without multiple distractions. We don't have open ground in general that isn't full of livestock. It's more fields, moorland and hills with livestock, forest, dense undergrowth, streets, lakes all intermixed with people, cars other dogs etc. When we can find space like shown here the training progresses almost exponentially faster.
Definitely going to give this a rewatch and check out some of your other videos. Keep up the great work.
I show my students fun ways to teach loose leash walking using a long line all the time. People actually reinforce pulling by pulling back and reeling their dog in, using the leash as a steering wheel and following their dog. Using a long line and rewarding good choices, engaging with their dog, and making leash walking fun, will gradually improve leash skills with a shorter leash too.
Thanks so much 🙏 I could never find a positive methods of training for this topic. Most trainers recommend harsh methods for faster results, but I feel like I'd rather treat this problem for longer period of time than ruin my dog's positive association with me and walks.
I love your videos and I train my husky for 2 years with your approach. What frustrates me a bit, is that all the dogs you are training are so focused on humans. Mine don’t give a sh about humans or me most of the time, she is not food motivated, she does not bring me a ball when we play fetch 😅 She does like to play thought, she grabs the ball and runs around with it 😂 Ireally would like to see how you approach difficult dogs
The husky Is on a whole differenti level kind of breed.. can he be a family dog? Yes, with proper education. Can he be trained to come to You when u do recall him? Yes, with a shitload of time, efforts e patience with the right motivation for him. Can he do obedience ? HELL NO!
Das glaube ich Dir! Die (wenigen) Huskys, die ich bisher kennenlernen durfte, waren allerhöchstens bereit nach dem Motto "und was hab ICH davon?". Aber jedes Tier möchte fressen. Mach das Futter und dich wichtiger. Napf weg, und es gibt nur noch draußen und nur nach Blickkontakt. Für Apportierspiele ebenfalls Tauschgeschäft, und ganz kleine Schritte:
Den Ball z.B neu einführen. Wie ein Target. Touch = Markerwort, Blickkontakt zu Dir und dann Futter.
Als nächstes Ball berühren und ins Maul nehmen, Markerwort, Blickkontakt, Futter.
Angeleint. Dann Ball, Maul, halten, herholen, geben, dafür Futter.
Sind ja keine Retriever, keine Malinois, keine Pudel. Mach dich wichtiger. Dein Husky ist ja von dir abhängig. Er möchte das leckere Futter.
Spätestens ab dem zweiten Tag, wenn er merkt, es gibt nichts mehr einfach so im Napf.
OHNE Ablenkung üben, im Haus, danach im Flur, danach im Garten, danach draußen ohne Ablenkung, danach draußen mit wenig Ablenkung.
Es geht an der Leine keinen Schritt weiter ohne dass er zu dir Blickkontakt aufnimmt.
Keinen Erfolg, dich irgendwo hinzuziehen. Keine Haustüre öffnet sich ohne Blickkontakt. Es geht nach der Haustüre nicht los ohne Blickkontakt.
Du bist das Interessanteste. Mit Dir ist alles toll. Der Husky mit Beissvorgeschichte, den ich in meinen Kofferraum eingeladen bekam
(er war von einer Patientin von mir, der ich versprochen hatte, ich kümmere mich um ihren Husky, wenn sie mit meinen Kollegen mit ins Krankenhaus geht) biss mich nur nicht, weil ich den Kofferraum öffnete, das Ende seiner Leine schnappte und ihm erst einmal gab,
was jedem Husky gefällt: ich hatte Inliner an und fuhr einfach los in einem ruhigen einsamen Gebiet.
Mehrere Kilometer.
Übrigens wurde er zwei Jahre später eingeschläfert, da er seine Besitzerin gebissen hatte.
Diese hatte ihn stets alles machen lassen, gar keine Erziehung, und nie ein Nein...
97% positive Bestärkung, aber meiner persönlichen Meinung nach braucht es bei manchen Hunden eben auch die anderen 3%.
Gib nicht auf
We discovered the long leash method by circumstance . We made long ropes to walk our dogs on our farm. It really is a game changer for walking well on a short leash.
Amazing!!! I put your theory to the test. I just got back from walking my highly reactive gsd, Ollie, on a 30 ft leash- BEST WALK EVER (according to Ollie!). He is well trained and has great recall- I did keep him in a shorter lead as we approached heavier traffic areas. He never let the leash get to the end to pull- he kept running back to check in with me- and get a treat. Bonus- he exercised 4x’s more than I did😅. Then I took my other gsd,Lucy, (a sniffer). She wanted to go visiting people’s homes and gardens! Still it was a great experience for her. Next time I’ll bring higher reward treats to reinforce when she checks in with me. Great day… we will do this definitely several times a week now. Great video and great advice. Thank you!
Love this!
Can you elaborate? Was he already leash trained?
I am going to foster a large dog who pulls and,while good,with dogs I want to train to not pull. When out and about did you dog explore and,come back to you? What about when other,dogs approached?
I would not do this as a first time experience with your foster dog. My dog definitely was already leash trained, and he comes back to me. My other dog, Lucy does not come back to me as well. I do not recommend using it if your dogs are highly reactive and they may encounter Potential reactive situations. So this is a training exercise that Zak suggest using in an area where there are not other people, cars, dogs, etc, I will say that I wasn’t paying attention and my dog Lucy saw another dog and took off. You have absolutely no control with this long leash and she took me down and I seriously injured myself, so she will no longer be on extra long lead in the near future. Good luck!
@@eringoldsmith2677 Thank you for this example and context, it makes great sense to me. Strategies need to be adapted to the dog(s) involved, and dogs that have specific behavior issues need targeted approaches. I also suggest the "Beckman's Dog Training" channel as he specializes in difficult dogs and several of his ideas have worked well for me, like his leash pulling video. He also has great "dog pyschology" tips he shares.
Zack… im going to need you to please demonstrate this in a busy city with busy sidewalks. I dont have the set of twilight’s breaking dawn in my backyard 😂
The idea with training like this is to seek out environments where you can practice.
If ever you do a new series, can you please do a how to train a running dog?
That makes sense! My 3 yr old lab mix is very obedient but I was puzzled as to why I have a lot of trouble getting him to walk nice on the leash.
I got my puppy(16mths)a long lead as i wanted to train her to come.used a ball she obsessed. She ran after another dog .took her ball😮.i said bye seeyou later and walked away.she came back😊.extender leads are great for letting your dog sniff in a built up area.thank you.i could not cope without your training.
This video was one of your most helpful yet. We like to have our dog work on heal and recall training in a safe legal hiking area without a leash. Bureau of Land Management or BLM areas are great for this.
I use a regular length leash and a collar when I am walking in the street. It gives me more control. But I use a longer 10ft leash and a harnass when I am in a forest or moorland where I want to give my dog the freedom and there are no people, vehicles and other things to navigate through. I learned that his leash behavior as a pup improved on the long leash much quicker than on the shorter leash. Which took another 6 months of training or so.
This is an awesome video! I love how Zak explains concepts in such a way that is so easy to understand. And I love that he always emphasizes the importance of pet owners doing their part - it’s not just the dogs who need work. I always look forward to new videos!
My wife adopted an extremely reactive five year old German Shepherd. This dog is reactive to all other creatures including birds and insects. After the dog almost pulled her shoulder out of its socket, I suggested a prong collar. She thought it was cruel, but I told her she could put it around my neck and tug on it before she put it on the dog. She did that. If it could be done to me without harm, it could be done to the dog. She tugged. I barked. I then showed her how to fit the collar way up next to the dog's ears and how to do a correction with it. In a few days, the pulling was 85% corrected. This dog will NEVER become habituated because our two acre property has 14 semi-feral cats (all neutered and vaccinated) hanging around, and I would never risk walking in the park where there are other dogs because this dog was bitten by a pit bull when she was younger which is what made her so reactive to dogs. Luckily, she is not reactive to humans, but very friendly. In our living room we're trying to teach her to look at us with cheese as a treat.
I am having real challenge with my 1 yo bichon frise pulling and lunging on lead. I also have a senior dog who is slow so walking both at the same time is a nihgtmare. I think I get your concept and it definitey challenged my assumption of using short lead to train is more effective mindset. Will give this a go. Thank you for sharing.
Pinch collar and 6ft leash. Took 15 minutes to get my Pitbull to stop pulling. She walks perfectly now. Used the same technique on a Doberman. It works.
💯
This is a deeply encouraging video! I'm at the end of my rope with my 11-month-old puppy who pulls and sniffs constantly. I've actually used the long lead to play fetch with him outside, but not to actually walk him (I switch from the short to the long). I'll start walking him with the long lead and practicing my commands more often. I'm very encouraged! Thank you Zak!
I've, with success, used retractable leeshes on various dogs for the last 25 years at least, despite disapprovals from dog trainers and know-it-all's. I prefer using commands to control dogs, keeping tugging the leesh as a last resort. My present dog, relocated to me 18 months ago, was most likely raised on a 2 metre leesh, which has made him pace, even off leesh. I've recently seen him trot twice, so there's hope yet. So now that we can mostly walk alongside the road without him lunging towards every passing car, I may be able to take it a step further. Cycling comes to mind.
When I got him, he had a fit every time he saw or heard a car, even at long distance, wanting to chase in its general direction. I'll leave out his other behavioural flaws for now, just stating that he has huge issues. Not sure if I'm in over my head on this one. Progress is very slow. His constantly arched back and tail tucked firmly between his legs have long since passed, his mouth clappering and paw licking are becoming less frequent, I hope I'm doing something right.
Hamilton dog training video for loose-leash walking, IMO. Short, sweet, and extremely effective.
I wish BarkBox would exist in Europe as well… my dog would love it!
Hi zak, I've seen/heard of a lot of trainers not recommending fetch because it increases stress in the dog, obviously you seem to have a different opinion. Can you do a video addressing the opinions? I feel it causes confusion. Many thanks
I've been working on leash training my Australian cattle dog since bringing him home last August. This video explains the process SO MUCH BETTER than any other resource I've used, and I've recently started doing some of these off-leash or long-leash techniques with my dog and it's been going well! However, I still have to walk him regularly to get exercise, and he pulls HARD on a standard walk. I've been using a gentle leader with him for our longer walks which really helps prevent the pulling and keeps a much looser leash.
I guess I'm just wondering what other people in training are doing to still take your dog on walks, even when they're not fully leash trained to walk politely on a leash? My concern is that he'll not associate what we're learning in the back yard on his long line to actual walks, because we only do actual walks with the gentle leader.
120# rescue leash reactive GSD/Great Pyrenees long line used for teaching recall. Long lines don't always improve a puller usually gives them a good head of steam with hard stop at the end or dragging handler
6 foot leash with appropriate corrections not dragging him back. Watching his body language as soon as you notice he's building correct him 2 or 3 appropriate correction BEFORE he explodes has the dog engage on handler interrupts the drive impulse and treat/praise provides incentive to continue the correct behavior.
My collie that I've had for 3 weeks is great in everyday apart from he is scared of traffic on the road that moves fast.
He was a farm dog that spent most of his time in a barn.
Trying my best to get him used to it slowly at a distance from the traffic
Would like to mention, very important you check your local cities leash laws. For example, in Toronto you can't have your dog on a long line. Leash must be no longer than 2 m (6 ft). Except for the off leash parks which are out of control in this city and a complete nightmare in some places. So it does make it challenging to work your dog like this. I've gotten dirty looks from passersby's when I've had my dog on a Flexi lead in the park. I now know why.
That ad was so smooth…I start buying immediately!
Herm Sprenger 2.25 Prong Collar will fix leash pulling in less than 2 minutes
Works like mom’s teeth whenever she goes to nip at her puppies whenever they misbehave or do something she doesn’t like.
Sometimes other dogs can also be great teachers when it comes to manners.
Yes, this was exactly the case with my 3 month old Belgian Malinois female. Now she walks with me with very few collar corrections. She does better on regular collars too, out of habit. Sometimes I use a gentle leader collar and that has its positives as well. Robert Cabral has one rule I like: "Always be fair to your dog". Sometimes it takes a little extra thinking to figure out how to apply it to given situations. I think in this case, "letting your dog just be a dog, and sniff and run and explore" a good chunk of the time is "fair". For me, the goal is to get to where corrective collars are unnecessary, as the dog gets older, understands expectations better, and, because of her relationship with her owners, wants to please her "pack" of people.
This type of training approach is great for smaller dogs. My dog is 20 pounds or so, and the long leash works great for him, but if he was a very high energy 90 pound German Shepherd, then I would probably suffer lower back pain or a dislocated shoulder as the dog would not be satisfied with just 30 feet of leash and would pull me with tremendous force when he runs out of leash! What you’re doing is ideal for off leash dog parks. But 2 rules must be followed at off leash dog parks: 1) Your dog has to come when you call his or her name, and 2) You can’t take your dog to off leash dog parks if your dog behaves aggressively toward other dogs.
I am Penelope and my dad thinks you’re Chanel is the best ❤🐶🐩🐕🦺🐾🦮💩🐶🐺
Thank you so so much!
I live downunder in New Zealand with a full off energy, English springer spaniel, cross with miniature poodle, turn off, been trying to train for months but because of a permanent disability (severe traumatic brain injury) I find it frustrating trying to train him and myself before I get to mentally fatigued.
I’m lucky to have plenty of places with space that work for a long lead .
Did I say thank you very much?
I use a three foot leash for collar walking otherwise I got the leash stuck underneath his legs way to often, if I’m using a harness I use a long line. I like going to the off leash meadows and forest trails and he really enjoys it, he’s about a year and a half old and he’s really starting to figure out what we expect from him in those environments, so he doesn’t go running off into the distance without checking in every once in a while. I have the biothane 1/4” rope leash with the brass fixings, I like how it’s waterproof and it doesn’t get dirty as easily as the other leashes we’ve tried.
I've bought a long leash because of you, it has been super helpful as my dog loves to sniff 😀 she still pulls and might be too reactive when other dogs come near but so far she's catching on and that's what matters ❤
My poodle learned to not pull in 30 minutes with a prong collar. We have since moved on from that tool but if you want faster results try the prong collar.
@@Stagirite0you need a prong collar around your neck , there is no need to use barbaric items when training a dog .
@@mightymidas2021 if you tried explaining what is barbaric about using a prong collar to my poodle, he would not care. He cares about pleasing me and the collar heightened our ability to communicate. Be logical. Helping my dog learn is my goal and NOT harming him.
zack cant walk is dog without pulling.....
@@Stagirite0 then if it's not harming him bin the prong collar . I have never needed to use a prong collar nor any other cruel device to train a dog .
Totally agree! I love positive enforcement❤❤❤
This is great if you live in an area that has a lot of grass. If you live in a city, this is not possible! 😊
This makes a LOT of sense! Thank you so much! I'm excited to try with my spaniel 🐾🐾🐾
A lot to think about here... I like the dog psychology models presented and want to incorporate most parts of them. I had to go to a prong collar to get my strong-willed 3 month female Belgian Malinois to walk with me without sled dog pulling the whole time. (she's 4.5 months now) I noticed that as a common theme among Malinois owners. Instantly, on the prong collar, she adapted and walking became enjoyable for the human again. Now I've gone to a longer-line retractable, with significant chunks of the walk giving her freedom to sniff and explore, where it's safe. She's figured out exactly how long she can sniff and explore on the 16 and 25 foot retractables, and she mostly knows how to avoid wrapping the leash around light posts and such. I want to move away from the prong collar as she gets better and better at consistently checking in with me. She does LOVE walks and gets excited when the walking leash comes out. She is amazing now at walking with me and checking in constantly in situations that demand it, e.g. walking on the sidewalk next to a busy street. I do try to give her some freedom to sniff and use the full length of the line for a good chunk of our 2-mile walk. At the 1 mile mark there is a fenced dog park, so she goes off leash there and meets other dogs, and then we RUN a mile back to the house. She's also a swim-fetching fiend, and will fetch again and again swimming from one end of the pool to fetch, and returning with the toy. This dog is teaching her humans so much...
The hardest part for us now is that we have a 9 month old puppy and a grown bigger dog. Their leads get tangled so much and that is a struggle 😂 I find myself either walking them separate or on a shorter lead which causes the younger dog to pull more. 😅(halfway through the video so you might have an answer for me) and also the leads get soo dirty and wet here lol 😂
This is the video that introduced me to Zac George and I worked at several zoos and big cat rescues who use dominance training which I didn’t think was the best way. People who think a dominant dog needs dominance training are not looking at both sides. Try this it works. Do you want your dog to love you or just respect you?
Nice. Points well taken. However, in San Diego, it is "illegal" for me to walk my dog on any leash more than 6 feet. Instead I attach the leash to the ring on the front of her chest (rather than top of her back), and her pulling behaviors automatically decrease by 95%.
In my urban environment, a 30-ft leash is laughably impractical. The solution: a headcollar, e.g. "Gentle Leader." My mutt Homer pulled like a sled dog until I tried a headcollar: problem solved, almost immediately. I still let him sniff around pretty much wherever he wants to on our walks, but when we're moving forward, he never pulls; he mostly walks just ahead of me or right beside me, at my left knee. Best $15 I ever spent.
" We have to make sure that our dogs are on a leash, so that they can stay safe....but we're not using it as a communication device ! "( 9:30sec. ) Brilliant. This comment hit me like a ton of bricks. It just changed my entire outlook on my training. Thank you.
Thank you! These are very good and level headed advices that help me and my teen Belgian tervuren. 😊
Your videos have helped me grow as a person.
Thanks for you help Zak, this worked for me. Great channel💗
Had a 2 or 3 year old rescue lurcher for three months now... and you'd need a two mile long line!! She comes on the whistle unless potential prey spotted, in which case forget recall!
I found teaching "wait" and to cross behind me if he wants to swap sides has been key for me. That way if he wants to get where he is going, he has to slow down.
We have a reactive pup, and use a short handle clipped to the harness along with the long line. The long line has been such a vital part of our training journey, as it’s helped him gain confidence at his own pace. Can’t say enough good things about it! We’ve learned the hard way to use the short handle during transitionary points like loading/unloading, as our pup has a tendency to just bolt at things he’s afraid of.
This would have made leash training for my high drive Belgian Tervuren much easier if I knew about it when he was a puppy! I'll definitely remember this for my next dog!
Can we just all appreciate that he named his dog Inertia?
love this video thanks for sharing, im watching this in December 2023, blessings to you and your crew for the rest of 2023 and going beyond in the future, you gained another SUB,
I love your videos and got a long leash however my six month old puppy ran so fast thinking she was free to run then ran back and wrapped the leash around my ankles and I fell over. Not great for my 71 year old bones! However I will rethink it when she is out of her puppy stage.
While I can use a long lead at home, almost all places we go for walks, it is required to use 6ft or shorter leash (mostly walking parks and trails). Even with using 5-6ft leash, we have made huge progress in stopping pulling. I do often hear that "harnesses cause pulling," but I think that was an issue with miscommunication. According to my vet, "harnesses make it easier to pull." That is what makes sense to me. I am glad to see you are putting out more long form videos again.
I think harnesses reward pulling. It's like barking, it feels good and a harness doesn't have the choking implications of a collar. As pulling increases, the dog gets stronger.
@@TheMatthooksthe harness doesn’t reward pulling! 😅 the act of walking forward is what is reinforced. If your statement was true, the dog would instantly stop pulling when on a collar! Does it??
Yes, harnesses make it easier for dog to pull and thus move forward, which is the reward (reinforcement), although there are some harnesses that are designed to mitigate pulling.
Allowing a dog to move while pulling is not good.
Pulling is OK if human is stationary because dog will figure out it doesn't work. 😅
I followed Zak from the beginning and have been doing exactly this since my dog was 11mo old. He’s now 2. He just wants to get to the end of the long leash and pull. We do play and he comes back and his recall is excellent, but he still wants to get to the end of the leash and pull just like it was a 6’ leash.
that's because this technique is absolutely absurd and doesn't work. Please find another trainer to learn from
I agree. Teaching loose leash walk through months of training is simply a joke. Not to give rules and boundaries, only rewarding is a joke. Your dog must understand what he can and can’t do. You must communicate both. Not because you want to hurt your dog, but because you love him and you don’t want him, you and other owners and dogs to be in danger next to you.
No kidding 😂😂
Did I miss the part where he fixed the pulling or showed pulling at the start then not pulling at the end? Is this all just hypothetical unicorn farts?
I don’t recall how Kenny and I figured out off leash walks. We spent tons of time together, it was pretty organic. One thing I incorporated when he was ranging ahead 100 feet on a gravel road was to stop abruptly, making noise on the gravel. I’d kneel and open my arms out wide. I’d say “come here baby” or I wouldn’t say anything, but he came back every time because he knew he was going to get a big fat hug and kiss.
Thank you! Habituation is my NEW favorite word!
I teach Heelwork with no leash from the beginning, i do Competition Obedience, as well as camp with my dogs
When out in public, ( stores, public sidewalks, downtown, I use a 6 ft lead. 16ft flexis have a place but most people don't use them properly and let them have free reign of that leaf in the store.
I understand this if you have land the size of Alaska. However, when you don't have a large field anywhere near you, this doesn't work.
Found this channel a little while ago after adopting our new rescue puppy. I have been following George's training method for a while now and the results are actually incredible. Our 5 month old Kelpie can sit, stay, lay down, roll over, speak, leave things alone and return in almost any situation, he's still not great on the lead yet but i feel like thats probably a me thing. Consistency and compassion are key. We have a long way to go still, but enjoying every part of it.
Hmmm, this is exactly the opposite of what other trainers teach us. We have chihuahuas who are adorable but tough to train on leash to prevent pulling, and backing up out of their harnesses because of fear. They're afraid of grass, cars, other dogs, people. So we have a more challenging situation. Short leashes DO work, but in certain circumstances. They are sometimes better just dragging their leashes when in a safe environment. But we keep at it by walking, walking, walking and desensitizing them in some ways and socializing them.
I organized the information from the video because it was a little hard to follow. Hope this helps anyone!
*Why do dogs pull on leashes?*
Dogs naturally walk faster than we do and have a very strong seeking system that encourages them to be curious and explore! Pulling on leashes can also often be self-rewarding. They pull, the human follows and they learn that pulling works.
In short, dogs are curious and self-reward when pulling
*What should you not do when training your dog to not pull?*
You might be tempted to then simply never follow your dog when they pull but anyone who tried to do that knows it doesn't quite work.
You shouldn't use short leashes unless necessary because while they're great for keeping your dog safe in busy spaces, it forces them to walk at an unnaturally slow pace, frustration them and leading to more pulling
*How do you address this?*
(I had to take some liberties on what he is saying because it honestly didn't make much sense)
You're going to want to start using use a 30-foot leash as often as possible and training your dog to naturally come back to you using games like fetch. As your dog spends energy, they'll start becoming easier to walk with and might even stick near you without prompt, check in with you, glance at you or make the choice to place their attention on you instead of a distraction. these are all great signs and should be automatically rewarded with something they enjoy whether food, a toy or just letting them sniff around some more! As you do this and reward the behaviours on a long leash, it will become more likely for them to do the desired behavior even on a shorter leash.
*Any ideas on where I can train my dog?*
If you can't access a training location for financial or personal reasons you might have to think outside the box a little bit. As a rule of thumb, you want the space to be large enough so that your dog can explore but not overwhelmingly busy or crowded. I reccomended training in public spaces in off-peak hours when things are more quiet. Community centers, religious buildings, offices, apartments and schools often have unused open space at certain times of day. If you're comfortable with it cemeteries are often open to dogs and are very peaceful places to train.
*I'm not getting any results despite doing it for weeks! What's going on?*
If your dog is still extremely reactive during sessions, exercising them beforehand can be useful. Ask yourself if you're still actively working on the prerequisite commands (look at me, come here, sit, leave it). You might be expecting too much too early. Measure your progress and give yourself credit! Changing environment can be useful. Try going to a calmer place.
In conclusion, dogs pull because they're curious and explorers. To help your dog not pull you need to help satisfy their desire to explore and build a stronger communication with them. This can be done by going to a large, calm open space (public parcs on cloudy days or fields for example) with your dog on a 30-foot leash and playing games such as fetch to improve recall. Reward behaviors like glacing towards you and walking next to you on their own. If your dog isn't following you at all in the sessions after several weeks of training you might want to exercise them beforehand, switch method of reward/place and measure your progress to see if your dog is really not improving or you're impatient
True trainers,at least with their adult dogs,they could have their dogs be only focused on their trainer in a mass of dogs all piled onto him ...
This might be your best video yet. Great stuff!
Beautifully narrated and captured. I have benefited a lot