Starting Honda 40/50 HP with the Dreaded Electric Choke or By-starter Valve
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- So as a Honda mechanic a problem I ran into was dealing with these. You have to have zero throttle for it to work. This motor has been sitting for 3 months. We start at hooking up the fuel, water and go through the steps to run the engine. Also remember if you can run non-ethanol fuel or rec gas short for recreation do it. It's worth the 50 cents more to keep water out of your system. If you have any trouble or comments I will get back to you! If there is anything you want to see let me know that too. I will build this channel to fit your needs. Thanks!!!
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I watched this video after having the same issue with my Honda. While I have a remote throttle, this solved my no start issue completely! Thanks for the video!
I can't thank you enough. I thought I was having problems with my Honda outboard starting until I did what you said.
Snapped it three times, and like magic, it started right away. Thank you again and consider me a new subscriber.
Warm start problem with my 2004 BF40, cold: starts and runs great. If it is shut down for more than a 1/2 hr. it will crank for 10 to 12 sec. before it restarts, and will run just fine...Thanks Captain Rob
That doesn't sound to bad. Do me a favor and prime the fuel bulb next time snap the throttle 3 times and turn it over. See how it starts? Let me know. Almost sounds like your trying to get fuel up there. Check your oil level as well for me and let me know if it smells like gas. Talk soon!
@@captainrobthompson8728 The boat is not in the water yet. I noticed before I changed the oil this week that the level was a good 1/2 inch higher on the dip stick than when I changed it last spring. Can't say if it smelled of fuel. Note: this warm start issue has been on going for the last few yrs. thanks
Hhhmmmm? If its a 1/2" higher your making oil. I would look at the mechanical fuel pump. Take it off and try to pump it by hand. It's powered by the cam shaft so you can push with your fingers. If you see it get wet and leak some fuel that's the culprit. Take it off and try.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Bad weather in the N.E. today and tomorrow, will try the fuel pump idea when the weather turns. Thanks
Definitely keep me posted!
thanks for the video, I was a little concern with my water stream not flowing strong enough but based off your video my cooling stream is the same, it does increase flow with a increase of RPM. thanks again
Does Honda have any instruction on how to properly start a motor with this type of choke? I have the 50HP and same choke but the manual says NOTHING about how to move the throttle how you explained! BTW your instructions on moving the throttle several times then back to zero worked perfectly. Much thanks!
Your welcome! It was just trial and error working with the system that we found snapping the throttle worked out.
Hi. Thanks for your informative videos. They’ve helped me a lot with my 2006 twin 40’s I just got with my C-Dory.
Not sure if you still monitor this, but I wanted to know if you’d suggest putting them briefly in gear wide open or raising the fast idle briefly before starting because I can’t snap the throttle since they aren’t tillered. The carbs are clean (completely disassembled and soaked in carb dip and ran through ultrasonic cleaner), but the engines still give a lot of trouble starting. They get there after cranking 3-6 times for about 4 seconds each time (enough time for folks at the launch ramp to think I’m not making it out).
I don’t have access to ethanol free fuel (CA), but when I flush the engines, I use Trufuel ($20 a gallon), so that is what sits in the carbs when it’s not in use.
Thanks again for your time and your videos!
Ok. So you have a dual side mount control box? Manual choke or electric? I'm trying to think of how I would start this.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Correct. Dual side mount control box at the helm with starter enrichment valves (replaced and new from factory X2). Carbs recently synced and tuned as well.
After I cleaned the carbs and before I started using Trufuel to flush the engines I would let the ethanol fuel sit in the carbs, but would run each of them religiously at least once every 2 weeks for 10 minutes.
Ok I see what you have. You have the bastard ones you fight. I've seen so much covered under warranty to keep some running. So here is what you need to know. If this has the white electric choke on top of the #1 carb remove it. Put a small oring under the metal tab around the screw. Reinstall. Instead of going tight you'll have to find the right height almost like a shim. Your choke is on but shouldn't be. It sucks but I've had this work a few times. Honda Quads had a shim kit outboards did not. Also just make sure your primer ball is hard and you have all 5/16 fuel line. 3/8" is a no go with Honda's. I hope this helps. Let me know what happens.
Thanks, I really appreciate it. I’m at work for a few days and won’t be able to get to the boat for a little, but I’ll try the modifications that you’re talking about.
Just for clarification you don’t think I should give each engine a shot of fuel with the fast idle or throttle before I try and start them the next time?
Thanks again for the help and the fast detailed responses!
Okay captain try this. Don't do it have ass just try it trim the motor all the way up Pump the ball hard if you have a primer now keep in mind you are trimmed all the way up boat is in the water engine is actually still out of the water don't freak out once it's running trim down reason being a lot of times because fuel floats on top of water it's the angle of fuel going into your jet also check your water separator if you have as far as the adjustments you were talking about depends on how big of a boat or motor you're running how long you've had it believe it or not a lot of times especially on cheaper Motors or some cheaply built ones the two clips that hold down the float Bowl to keep it at a certain amount of fuel actually Bend up allowing too much gas. Air fuel mixture has to be precise. Last question? When you were running at speed do you hear a low pitch popping almost can't hear it unless you were trying to very low level pop pop pop that is a definite sign of water in the fuel also check for vacuum leaks I could go on and on don't know your situation but if you have good fuel spark and compression all motor should run
Helpfully thankyou!
I have an 07 bf50 that have replaced tank, lines, plugs, fuel pump and this thing takes 40 minutes in cold weather 40 degrees or less to even think about running right sometimes it'll run well but others if you throttle up it'll fall on it's face and die.
I'd start thinking about another motor. My 04 is showing obsolete parts now. Your gonna be in that boat soon.
@@captainrobthompson8728not really wanting to as the motor has less than 150 hours
Mine too. My carbs are obsolete and I can only rebuild. If the carbs were cleaned to good that can also be a problem. Look for a complete carb bank online. That maybe your saving grace looking long term. Try a small oring under the keeper that holds the bystarter valve. Adjusting the height of the bystarter has helped with some models. It's the needle and the amount of air/vacuum getting by that can mess it up. The ratio has to spot on or it's like your choking it still.
Hi there! We just bought a used boat with honda 2006 4 stroke 40hp, and we have problem everytime we start it. It would take 3 to 5 start just to make it start. We've check everything, new spark plug too. I wanna share to you the video and hoping you can help us with it. Thank you!
With out even seeing it. It's probably the electric choke. They have been known to give starting issues.
But first trim your motor all the way down. Prime your fuel bulb til it's hard. Snap the throttle 2 times. Make sure it's all the way back to start with no throttle at all. Then start. If it gives you issues over and over then finely starts and idles perfect it's the choke. If it coughs and pops then it's something else in the carb. Get back to me and let me know.
Are those carbureted 4 strokes good reliable engines? I'm looking for a bf50 for my old bass tracker. I really want to not use any more 2 strokes. Thanks
They are good if you don't let them sit and use only non ethanol fuel. They have been fuel injected for a while now so if you get one make sure it's been in fresh water. That way you'll have less problems. Good luck!
@@captainrobthompson8728 thanks for your help 👍
Did you adjust your tell tale? Mine pees like that but I'm looking for more of a stream.
Now that I know I have a carb engine, I'm having problems starting. I have cleared the fuel lines, pulled the fuel pump and changed the fuel filter as well as cleaning the fuel tank. Using you 3 prime method I get the engine to run for about 15 seconds. I can repeat the several times but cannot get the engine to run more than 15 seconds. The engine has been sitting for almost 3 years and I'm not sure what kind of fuel was left in the engine. Found the floats be stuck closed causing no fuel to the carbs? Also is there a trick to pulling out the carbs to check the floats? Thanks.
Thanks for your video. I am told that Honda no longer provides the electronic choke/starter switch for my 2000 50 hp carbeurated outboard. What options do I have to replace that part which no longer works to choke the engine?
Thanks
Hmmmm? There are none. I would call some dealerships and see if they carry any or have it off of a used motor? I guess we maybe getting obsolete at 20 years old?
Can you do a most on changing the tilt and trim motor???
Hopefully I don't have to but when it goes I will!
Having some issues getting my BF25D started. Always used ethanol-free, no issues. Won't start most times, but occasionally I can get it going and it has some sort of knocks. Two really short videos here: ruclips.net/video/swLsrMsTrms/видео.html (4 seconds) and running with knocks (ruclips.net/video/ctJi_Idmfro/видео.html) It does eventually run well, after about 15 minutes, but after a few days it won't start again. Carbs? Electric Choke?
Ok so you need to clean the carbs. Then do what's called a sync and link. You have to sync the carbs to run together. You may have to have a shop do it. But first clean those carbs find the base setting for the idle screws and go from there. Start with fresh fuel too. Good luck you have some work ahead of you. Once that is done then worry about the electric choke. They can be finicky but you will not know til the carbs are known good!
Thanks for the answer Rob, one more question: my 50 hp Honda (yr2000) is just put in the water after 3 years on land, rpm is not going over 4000, any idea how to address this problem? Thanks
No problem! Could be a few things. Make sure plugs are good. I'm leaning toward a carb is fouled out. Or your prop hub is spun. Check those and get back to me. Hopefully one of those will fix it.
Hey if bystarter is bad will it do this… start and idle fine for almost a minute then rev up and down on its own. Runs bad under load while in gear but out of gear it runs better (running at about 1/2 throttle). Cleaned carb, fuel lines inside engine are replaced, tested fuel bulb and connections, did valve job, fuel filter isn’t clogged. I’m at a loss
Hmmmm? Still sounds like carb issue to me. How did you clean the carbs and how many times have they been cleaned?
@@captainrobthompson8728 Took the carb apart and I sprayed it liberally with brake cleaner making sure each little pinhole would spray fluid out of it. Brake cleaner doesn’t have that minute bit of oil in it that carb cleaner has. The only part of the carb and I know we didn’t get taken apart was the little spring mechanism that the bystarter (auto choke) pushes up and down. I might take the carpet apart again and soak it in solvent. But my father works on small engines and thinks we got it good but still thinks it might be a decent idea. Any other ideas?
I was thinking it may have been cleaned to good in ultra sonic cleaner. I've see that strip them clean and never run right again. It maybe a vacuum leak or a dash pot issue. A bad bystarter you can raise up just a hair and see how it runs. I put a small oring under the metal platearound the screw and screw it down so you have a small gap. That keeps the needle up a bit more. How is the intake manifold gasket and the screws for sync and link? Hit the intake gasket with some ether see if the motor jumps. You got some work ahead of you.
Rob, on the BF40 tiller do they have a horn that sounds when you turn the key on?
I believe it does not have the pizzo horn like the binacle or side mount box.
How do you manually tilt a BF40D made in 1995? Cannot find a release lever or cylinder release screw.
It's called a dampner. There is no relief screw like a trim and tilt. The ram is still available but for $994. Keep trying to soak the handle so you can get it working. If you have to unbolt it just gut it out and manually lift it or put it down. Sorry I don't have better news:(
I was gifted a 1995 BF50A with remote set up, with manual choke. Its currently on a stand. I want to run it prior to putting it on. I don't have the controls, just the 14 wire harness and battery cables. Can I jump it temporarily just to check it? If so, can I just hook up the battery cables and use the solenoid wire to jump it......? What wire do I use also? Love your videos. Cheers.
Hey Jason! It's been a long time since I've done that. It's worth a shot. I would just cross the terminals on the solenoid or use a jumper box and go straight to the starter. I believe the neutral safety is on the motor and not the control box. The kill switch/safety lanyard may foul you up. At least you can crank it over get a compression test and see where you lie. I would get that gearcase off and check the impeller. It maybe brittle and shot. Hope that helped. Let me know what you find out. It is a primitive wiring set up so it may work. To shut it off choke it out and or put a rag over the intake. Good luck!
@@captainrobthompson8728 i got it to turn over!!! But not fire 😔. I tried connecting the lanyard wires too. Ill do a compression test and check for spark now.... I've got fuel coming out of the middle carb though, just under a little round spot with an indent on the side facing me(when I pump up the primer bulb), could that keep it from firing?? Appreciate your time and feedback. Ill be watching more videos later tonight! Cheers.
Ok so you have a float stuck. You will have to take the carbs apart and do a cleaning. Ugh! The fun with motors
@@captainrobthompson8728 im not getting spark either. Is that just a bad coil back? Only tested one plug so far though.
It maybe from no ignition key on try all 4. Ask around and see if anyone has a harness or ignition?
I have a bf30 that doesnt have the Honda Outboard 16' Main Engine Wiring Harness Control Box To Motor 14 Pin or the wiring to connect the battery to the starter. Can you show me how yours is setup?
Brandon send me an email to captainrobthompson@gmail.com I will try to send you pics from there.
Hi Cap. My friend has a BF40 ...we've been trying to get it started but it wont...any tips?
? Spay a little either in the airbox. Very little. See if it pops off. Then you know it's fuel related. Do you guys have the kill switch lanyard on? What have you tried?
Is the shell 93 octane v power gas good to run?
To be honest I do not know. If it's ethanol free yes use it
Whats ethanol fray?
Hello thanks for your videos i have a question for you i have the same outboard 40hp 4 stoke but im having problems with my number 1 and 2 cylinders not firing they seem to be taking turns running do you have any idea what could be going on thanks for your time
I would see if you can borrow a spark checker. Hook it up to all 3 cylinders and see what you have. Whether or not you have a spark problem a carb problem or a plug problem. Let me know and get back to me. If you can do a compression test bang that out so we can rule out rings pistons rods all that. Honda use to like a comp test first thing. I'll get you through this.
I have pulled the plugs and checked for spark they have spark but its like 1 and 2 are firing when they want to like there taking turns working im lost
My carbs are good and clean when i run the motor and pull the plug wires one at a time 1 and 2 change the idle some times but number 3 is a drastic change
The compression is 130 130 150
Your out 10% on compression but not enough to say #3 has the issue with it high and not low. Swap plugs make 3 #1 2 #3 1 #3 try again see if problem moves? I'm thinking you have a carb issue only because 9 times out of 10 it's fuel related. See if you can get a spark checker even an inline. If it's good your problem lives in the carbs. Let me know what you find. You should have a separate coil for each cylinder as well. If it was a coil under the flywheel you'd see all 3 cylinders have issues. Something smells like carb issues. I've cleaned mine 3 times and 1 carb just has it out for me until I ran non ethanol fuel. Let me know.
Hey have the 50hp to this.. An it won't start not geting spark.. Any help????
Ok no spark at All? Try to find an online manual to down load. It's hard but they can be found. Your gonna have to back track from coils to flywheel. Did you use and inline spark checker? Let me know
What prop size are you running I’m trying to find a prop for my Honda 50hp tiller are you using a oem prop ?
Ok I'm running a Honda aluminum 11.5"dia x 12pitch x 3blade 40hp on a hull that's 500lb. I don't hit the rev limiter but by the sound it's close.
I don’t have a tachometer on my motor do you think I should start with that size prop then go from there ?
I don't have a tach either. Call powertec props and give them all your specs weights sizes and hp. They can get you really close on the first shot.
Captain Rob Thompson Ok thanks Appreciate it !
And the 30 Honda.
David North look at aus adventures he has a Honda 30hp / RUclips video how he serves it to
What's the number of the oil filter used on the 50 Honda 4 stroke
15400-PFB-014
What's the number of the 50 Honda oil filter
15400-pfb-014
How do you know if your engine is carbed or FI?
Follow your fuel line. If it goes to one grey box you have fuel injection. If it splits to 4 little bowls you have carbs. If there are a lot of linkages on the starboard side you have carbs. If you have a fuel rail and injectors you have efi. If you turn the key on and you hear a pump kick on for about 7 seconds you have efi. I hope that helps.
What year is the engine?
This is an 04. Carburated with electric choke.
My gas tank has no vent!
Now that I know I have a carb engine, I'm having problems starting. I have cleared the fuel lines, pulled the fuel pump and changed the fuel filter as well as cleaning the fuel tank. Using you 3 prime method I get the engine to run for about 15 seconds. I can repeat the several times but cannot get the engine to run more than 15 seconds. The engine has been sitting for almost 3 years and I'm not sure what kind of fuel was left in the engine. Found the floats be stuck closed causing no fuel to the carbs? Also is there a trick to pulling out the carbs to check the floats? Thanks.
Hi John! Your gonna have to take the entire intake manifold off and clean those carbs. It's gummed up. If you can get an ultra sonic cleaner that would be best. Just use soapy warm water in it. You'll need carb rebuild kits and gaskets. Make not of all needle settings. You have a decent job ahead of you. The carbs on these never fare well after 3 years. Good luck. I don't have enough storage to film that job. You may want to take it to a shop.
What year motor?
This is a 40hp 2004. With electric choke.
Thanks I have a 2008 40hp not peeing want to change impeller seen ur video on ur 2004 would mine be the same ?
Pretty much I don't think you'll notice any difference. Just make sure the water pump kit it the same. Run your numbers on the Honda marine website you should be good!