Building a Raised Hot Tub Deck with StrataRise Joist Support Pedestals (Part 1 of 2)
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- #onehandedwoodworking #stratarise
This was intended to be a one episode video, but will become a two parter for obvious reasons very quickly! I've been putting this build off for quite a while and with the OSB caving in it became needs must😂. All of the materials used in this project are leftovers from the workshop build to help keep costs to an absolute minimum.
As ever, thank you so much for your continued support in my disability woodworking adventures. Please consider giving the video a thumbs up and maybe even subscribing to the channel. Best Wishes, Leo
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You can contact us at: 75handicraft@gmail.com
StrataRise and Quantum Rubber Discount Code: LEO-10
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Links to the equipment I use in this build series. If any are linked to Amazon, as an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through these links:
Trend T18S Impact Driver (Bare Unit):
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Trend T18S Combi Drill Driver (Bare Unit):
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Trend T18S Cordless Detail Sander (Bare Unit):
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Trend T18S 4AH Cordless Battery:
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Trend T18S 2AH Cordless Battery:
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Trend T18S Battery Charger:
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Cuprinol UV Guard Decking Oil:
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Wagner W100 Electric paint spray gun:
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Trend T33a M Class Dust Extractor:
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Everbuild Wood Preserver:
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FESTOOL 202055 KAPEX UNDERFRAME UG-KA-KS 60
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Festool 561729 Sliding Compound mitre Saw KS 60 E-Set GB 240V KAPEX, 240 V, Multi-Colour:
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Trend Countersink Bits:
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Trend Snappy Bits Set:
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TURBO OUTDOOR PZ DOUBLE-COUNTERSUNK MULTIPURPOSE SCREWS 5 X 70MM 100 PACK:
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Huepar Laser Level (Affiliate Link):
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Really enjoying your videos and they are very useful in my summerhouse base project. I've even ordered some of the risers with your discount code. So ta very much!
Thanks Lisa, best of luck with your making adventures 😀😀👍👍
Amazing what you can do with just the use of one arm....and well done for getting motivated to work outdoors at this time of year with such cold, damp & stormy weather around. Real shame about the trees coming down...
Thanks Brian, very kind of you again. The cutoff point was when I couldn’t feel my good hand, time to stop then 😂. Lots of really old trees around here just ripped out of the ground, scary stuff
A few thoughts for you: Dont interlock the boards, you will get splash from the hottub, rain etc and you will want this to drain away. Suggest you have a 3-4mm gap between the boards. Run an armoured cable at the same time in case you do upgrade to a rigid type hottub. Consider if the boards will be slippy when wet, you dont want to fall getting out so some form of antislip should be considered. Consider if you do get a larger hot tub, where your perimeter lights should be, better to do them once. For the lights, look for ones that you can easily replace the bulbs, i speak from experience...
Cheers In2Branding, all excellent pieces of advice and genuinely appreciate the time you’ve taken here to post this message 👍👍
Leo, you are an inspiration. Keep it up.
Very kind of to say Pat, thank you 😀👍
Great video , just liked to say that its nice to see someone with the same disability as me I lost the use of my left arm due to a motorcyle accident 43 years ago , I continued to do my trade which was tiling, I have come to your post because I wanted more info on those pedestals as going to do a large deck, thanks .
Thanks for the message and nice to converse with a fellow one hander😂👍. My workshop is based on these pedestals and I have a video about that on my channel if you want to see them being used on a (much) bigger scale 👍
Great stuff. Will throw my opinion in for what it’s worth. Would definitely leave gaps for water run off and you can also get anti slip stain/paint that has grit in it. Could be very slippery when wet! Also on the last deck I did I put bitumen/roofing tape along the joists before I put the deckboards down and I think it will really extend their lifespan. Anyway, appreciate the laughs in this one. Good luck with part 2 👍🏼
Thanks Mark. I’m definitely going to leave gaps having read the comments here. I used an 80grit sanding disc so it still had quite. Bit of texture and I treated it with Cuprinol UV guard decking oil. It feels quite ‘grippy’ but I’ll have to see how it gets on 👍👍
Hilarious! Great watch as usual 😆👍🏼 thank you!
Thanks Paul 😀😀👍👍
😆😆bwahahahaha😆😆
Loved the intro humour.
Mate, it's a bloody good thing you didn't blown away in that mini hurricane with those trees!😳
I didn't read to see how many comments you got on your question, just jumped right into it.
I'd suggest drilling the holes and treating them right off the bat, it can't hurt to have them if you don't really need them, however if you do need them and haven't done them, then that's a little double handling you'll have to do.
Or gap the boards and be done with it...
Great part one vid, looking forward to part 2.👍🏽
Cheers Leo😉
Thanks Bill and on reflection and the advice I’ve got here I’m going to cut off the overlaps and leave a gap between them. It makes sense and won’t harm the structure of it in any way 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft
If your not having it under cover, then yes, it's pretty much the standard way to go for run off purposes, and the gaps don't have to be all that wide that you might drop small items down.👍🏽
Subs are not just for deaf people. Non-native English speakers appreciate them as well. I tend to turn them off these days as I get distracted and I'm good enough, but when I was young I had to put on teletext 888 on the BBC to follow some of the more adventurous accents. I don't think I would've understood old Dibnah without them...
Brilliant Meme and thank you for this. I’m guessing you’d need the subtitles for my accent 😂😂😂😂
I love the back joke, Leo
Cheers Pat. My back does talk to me these days 😂😂😂
Leo, great stuff as always….tough weather brudah. I won’t comment on the water evacuation as many others have offered good advice. Keep in mind, all wood that is not living, decays in the elements eventually. Even rail road ties soaked in creosote fail in the outdoors eventually. Can’t wait for the next one!
Thanks Matt and certainly has been some great advice here. Weather was awful! Hopefully better when I get back to it 🤞👍
Wow Leo well impressed with the Bernard Manning joke section, and the expletive bit. I’m wondering what has happened to the shy guy we used to see. Keep up the brilliant work.
Thanks David, very kind of you again sir. This channel has certainly helped me regain some self confidence from a catastrophic low of a couple of years ago and that is all down to the help and support of folk like yourself 😀. Couldn’t help but put the back joke in as it is exactly one year since I started the workshop base and yes my back still reminds me about it 😂😂😂
Hey Leo, as usual, impressed by your tenacity.💪🏼I agree with others here that a 3-4 mm gap between boards is essential if you don't want rot as with the previous OSB base. Charlie DIYte explains drainage really well in his hot tub decking video.
Thanks Mandy and yes I will check in on Charlie’s channel. I saw his original video but haven’t revisited it since he modified it👍👍
I am assuming you mean me when the subtitles said "Daphne" 🤣🤣🤣😭😭😭😭. Anyway thank you thank you thank you (repeat many more times) for not putting text behind subtitles, it can be frustrating sometimes. Much appreciated.
For the decking I don't think you need to do anything. Just leave it as it is. I think fiddling with it will add problems than reduce because your creating more areas for water to get in. It is a good quality wood, so just leave it. 👍
Yes it was you my friend 😀. Another subscriber just suggested getting rid of the overlaps and have a small space in between the boards which has really got me thinking 🤔🤔. Seems like a good idea
@@Hand-i-Craft not a bad idea, if you have hapus between the board then you'll need to buy that Jigsaw foam for garage doors to stop the spa sinking in between the gaps.
Haha love the humour Leo 😂👍
Thanks Brian 😀😀😀😀😀
Another great video, with the floor you could leave a small gap like a rebate when joining the boards together and put a very slight fall on the floor then any water should run off. 👍
Thanks Rasmo and yes going to be going with some kind of gap. Perfectly logical solution that I’d wouldn’t have come up with 😂😂
Hand-i-Comedian now Leo 😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣 👍. As others have mentioned, probably best to leave gaps between boards like decking.
😂👍Thanks Idler and yes the gap is the sensible option definitely 👍👍
Still love those adjustable feet .Another very interesting video keep them coming .
Cheers Dougie, hopefully back onto it on Friday. Do rate these pedestal feet, you’ve seen first hand how effective they are 😀👍
@@Hand-i-Craftwhere you get the adjustable feet from
@@williamcowan1818 There is a link in the description pal 👍👍
Your back has attitude, Leo but then, so does mine...er lol? Can you maybe knock up some trestles for the pallets, raise that 'bending work' up a bit - I know all that bending would finish me. And if you're pushing your joints & muscles beware of those cold temperatures - adjust accordingly, you know what the morning after feels like...right?
As usual a remarkable build and a project that will reward all the hard graft you're putting in.
Thanks Keith 😀😀. Yes the bending work isn’t ideal at times, was using a makeshift table to help outside, but the workshop has several things on the go at the mo so no worktop space unfortunately.
Hi Leo, another great video. I was thinking of the difference from your early videos of not wanting to appear in front of the camera, to now cracking jokes - well sort of jokes anyway !
Like other suggestions I do recommend you have a look at the Charlie DIYte channel, he has a few videos on making a hot tub deck. Couple of things I suggest though:
- You don’t want the deck to be 100% level, it should have a slight fall to help water drain off
- You need a gap between the boards to let the water drain off. If they interlock then its just going to trap water. Can you router the locking edge off?
- Charlie covers which side of the decking board should go upwards. He talked to the manufacturer and most DIY deck installers get it wrong, the manufacturer advice is that the grooved side should be downwards as the groves are there to help water drain away. Think about it, with no groves you have a solid wood to wood contact of maybe 2” x 3” where the board sits on the underlying joist. This is a perfect spot for water to collect and rot the board and the joist. As you haven’t any groves in your boards I would suggest cutting some with a router. Ideally the whole length or at least just where the boards meet the joists
- And think about how slippery when wet the boards are on the top of the deck. Do a test and see if its safe. Maybe cut some groves on the top or treat with a non-slip surface treatment (I applied some for porcelain floor tiles that had the same issue)
And don’t forget to build the beer/wine stand next to the tub as well !
Thanks Geoffrey and will be taking on virtually all of this advice! Many thanks 😀👍
NOOICE!!
Much credit to you Leo for keeping going through very tough conditions. When you do your appraisal of the Trend tools can you give some detail on the driver bit, is it just magnetic as it seems to hold the screw very well enabling you to drive in without pilot holes? I’m afraid I can’t offer any suggestions as to drilling holes in the boards but look forward to part two.
Cheers Mike. The bit in the impact driver isn’t from Trend, they come with the screws I tend to buy. Mostly KTX gold screws I get from my local timber merchant or their outdoor equivalent that use the same bit. They are excellent, I could get away with not drilling a pilot hole, but it just helps me lining up and getting it started if I do. Probably saves me time in the long run 😀👍
Thanks for the reply Leo, is the bit or holder magnetic to hold the screw?
@@mikefisher9992 I’m pretty sure it is the bit Mike, but how you’ve got me thinking 🤔🤔
Leo, that old base is good for another couple of years !!!............At least
Couple of bits ok pal, but stuff that resembled mouldy porridge not so much 😂😂😂😂
Smashing vid, well impressed. Used the discount code for 3560 risers no problem. FYI though, they're identical to the Blooma risers from B&Q at £28 for 10 pack, doh!!!!
Thanks Garry for the kind words and blimey it must be a big project 😳😳😳
@@Hand-i-Craft Mwhahahahaha, not that big but does need 80 supports. I’ve got the quantum rubber ones but could have saved best part of £80. Going down to experience 😬👍
Wood repellent! ha ha! On the cladding as decking I would agree with the comment below on that gap even though its hard wood and treated I would want some sort of drainage on every board. Or what about putting a 4 mil window packer between the to top edges of the boards, on the top profile, where they would normally touch, so they are still overlapping but not actually touching, so from above they look like they overlap but actually viewed end on there would be a 3 or 4 mil gap along the length of the board, all around the profile. No need to drill holes will still look continuous but there will be some drainage for each board as it would run between the boards round the profile and out the bottom. then obvs when fixed remover the packer.
Cheers Simon, yes some great advice here and I will be looking at some form of drainage between the boards to help prolong the lifespan 👍👍👍. Much appreciated 😀👍
I would be building this on top of a cement slab and the question I have it’s if I need some sort of barrier in between the cement slab and the pedestals to avoid vegetation from growing (weeds). The cement slab has a few small cracks here and there and every year weeds grow in between those small cracks. Any advice will be appreciated.
My workshop is built on a cement slab using these pedestal feet. The slab was a new pour so no need to worry about cracks etc. What I would say is it is best to prevent a potential problem like weeds etc before you lay the feet and timber base as it’ll be a nightmare to try and correct once the workshop is built and weeds are seeping moisture into your timber base. Bit of a hassle at the beginning of the build will certainly mean less hassle down the line 👍👍
Are the pedestals sturdy being on an uneven surface like they were here? I'm dealing with a very lumpy roof that I'm trying to use these pedestals on, and they seem very wobbly since there isn't a good flat surface to lay them on.
With this build Dylan, I tried my best to have the pedestals resting on something flat (like the broken up flagstone or compressing the shale). Once you have them supported underneath then the downforce of the frame helps to secure them in place. Then if needed you can make the individual height adjustments on the pedestals 👍
@@Hand-i-Craft Thank you!!
Not ideal weather for it. No suggestions for the boards, there will always be a problem with water getting between the hot tub and the boards and holding it there.
I do have a complaint though.... No one is offering me stuff to try :( I'd quite happily test a TIG welder....
Cheers Benedict and sorry I can’t help you out with the TIG welder 😂👍
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🤣🤣 cheeky bu??er 🤣
😂😂😂😂😂😂👍👍👍👍👍
If you let me know where to send to, I will happily send you a bundle of hot tub chemicals free of charge. Are you using bromine or chlorine?? 👍👍
Very kind of you Avon to offer. We’re using chlorine but is there any advantage one over the other?
@@Hand-i-Craft
Chlorine is cheaper and very good at keeping water clarity. Some people have a reaction to chlorine and in general it is harder on the skin than bromine. Chlorine granules are great but the tablets are very strong and can cause issues to solid hot tub components like headrests and the underside of the cover. Alkalinity and Ph balance is very important. It is also good practice to shock dose your water after heavy use or in a weekly basis. Again happy to send out some bits at no cost. If your using and happy with chlorine I would stick with it. I use chlorine granules but we tend to start our customer off on bromine.
@@ukhottubs Amazing advice and thank you. I don’t know if I’ve been having a bit of a reaction to the chlorine, been getting small red almost lesion type marks on my upper chest and forehead. Thought it was possibly an allergic reaction to a type of wood, but now thinking it could be the chlorine. We use the tablets in the floating plastic thing and it does a good job of keeping the water clear. Never used a shock treatment. Have you possibly an email I can contact you or mine is 75handicraft@gmail.com Thanks once again for all this advice 👍👍
@@Hand-i-Craft no problem, I’m covering the office on my own today but as soon as I get chance I will drop you an email over with some (hopefully) useful info 👍
Can u remember how many feet/ risers u used on ur 2 x 2.6 m area ?
Apologies pal can’t remember the exact figure but it was somewhere between 24 and 30
OMG
Pistol this is so frustrating for me as I can see your entire message that you kindly took the time to write and all that appears on here is OMG🤷♂️. I’ve had quite a lot of messages drop out of view recently and I genuinely cannot explain why. Thank you about the comment on the subscriber count, what is more important to me is who I have engaged with the channel and not what I want if that makes sense? I don’t drop the ‘if you enjoy this then please . . .’ comment, fine for anyone who wants to but it just doesn’t feel natural to me. Secondly my content is random, I do what I can when I can and I don’t think RUclips like that. They like regular weekly stuff which again is fair dos, but something I simply cannot I do. Thanks for the comments pal, shame no one else can see them 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
Hi mate if there giving you free stuff take it anyone who says they wouldn't are full ov💩. As for the decking i personally would not have a interlock on it. I would run 1 side off with the your table saw and leave a 3 to 4 mm gap in between each board.
Thanks David and yes brilliant idea, I’ll be going with that! Good job it has become a two part series 😀👍
Just noticed your hand is the wrong way round mate
Are you on about the logo Steve? Good point, I think at the time we did it the original idea was to highlight the disability