Repeating a trad classic “Impact Day” | Lake District Climbing Tick List
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- Опубликовано: 1 май 2022
- Prepare for impact on this UK classic climb.
On my trad climbing trip to the Lake District National Park, there’s one mountain crag that makes an impact. Pavey Ark scrambles like Jacks Rake are famous across the UK, but so are its hard trad classics.
Next door to the Neil Gresham test piece climb Lexicon, Impact Day is a trad climb with a reputation. With trad climbing repeats from Dave Macleod, Steve McClure, and Hazel Findlay it’s a climb for your tick list.
After a winter of sport climbing and bouldering, this trip was part of becoming a trad climber again. Back to trad climbing basics…or not! Instead I chose a hard climbing project like Impact Day…whilst trying not to fall climbing and make a real impact.
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Great climbing, nice tension. And good to hear Dave McLeod's voice behind the camera when you top out!
Haha yeah was good to have him there. The Scottish energy was strong that day!
Nitric Oxide supplements and L-Citrulline are VERY HELPFUL for dealing with Raynauds Syndrome. I have been dealing with this problem since childhood and these products are KEY to my climbing in cooler weather. 👍👍
I've got reynauds as well, have never found a way to get around it completely, but I've got an electric handwarmer that works best for me. I find if I can get my hands really bloody cold at the start of the day (maybe before the walk up), and then warm them until they're sweating and way too hot, then I don't have any problems for the rest of the day. I learnt it from some competitive ice climber that did it by putting his hands in snow before competing.
I have no idea how it works, or if it'll work for you, but it's the only thing that I've found that stops my fingers from being completely useless.
Ahhh cool! I actually just bought an electric hand warmer to take with me to Orkney. Was gonna experiment with it and see if it works :)
I’ll also try the cold/hit treatment.
Would love to see more trad stuff in the lakes. Absolutely phenomenal place!
Definitely keen to do more in the Lakes!
My limited thoughts on Reynauds. I had never once experienced it before, but in last couple of years when I've now upped to climbing 3x a week, I do get mild episodes of it. The only change in my routine etc has been introducing more climbing, so it's possible the more you do the more you will experience it. Amazing video too.
Big fan of the lifeguard uniform.
Great climbing
You have really stepped it up a notch, really good quality content! Awesome to see you working the route and going thru the details as well instead of just seeing the redpoint, the process makes it much more interesting. Keep up the good work!
Thanks man! Yeah I wanted to show that process. Wasn’t sure if it was going to be boring… after watching those sections 1200 times during the edit you start to question yourself… “is this actually the most boring footage in the world?” 🤣 glad it wasn’t for you
amazin ~have a good day,broth.
Well done, that looks like an awesome climb. I like the quiet documentary style to this one, it was almost like being there with you.
Thanks Marcus! Was a great day out in the mountains 🏔
Such a good video, you made it so interesting I wached it all the way through..thanks for the video! :)
Thanks dude!!! 👊😎
Wonderful video. No intrusive music, no silly cartoon inserts, no screaming and swearing. A real climber's video. Well done!
Haha 😂 thanks. I’m making Progress
@@RobbiePhillips I like the sweary ones too.
Ace job…cheers
Great video Robbie!
Thanks mate!
Ischemic preconditioning with blood flow restriction cuffs is one especially advanced method if a few others do not work.
Depends on how persistent the Raynauds is through a session. Usually only one significant instance a session? Forced the instance.
As well, have found my flatpack cooler filled with ice and water at the trailhead is a way to acclimate myself to cold rock. Plunge the hands in and slowly flex and extend while submerged for about thirty seconds more than loss of feeling (as long as you can stand), then remove and swing the forearms back and forth hard to reperfuse blood into the finger tips for a few minutes (again, as long as you can stand). This is the quick means to the hot aches, screaming barfies, or whatever brand of forced vasodilation you prefer, and as long as you constrict and dilate the blood vessels in the hands every few hours, say by climbing hard, this protective preconditioning remains.
However, especially thin climbs, I find I basically need to get on and numb out to the point of inability to flex my fingers and therefore falling, to get the fingers to adapt. The BFR works well for pumpier climbing (has a preconditioning for acidosis), and for simple mileage on onsight or below routes the cooler is great.
Staying warm just isn’t much of an option.
Hope you get the digits sorted mate 🤞🏻 ……..sendage!! As per’ 👏🏻🏴🔥
Thanks Baz!
Great video Robbie! Have you or your doctor considered the Raynaud’s presentation as secondary to Thoracic Outlet Syndrome? I’ve heard that some percentage of TOS patients present with vascular symptoms in the arms and hands in addition to the more common neurological symptoms. I had numbness and tingling in the ring and small fingers of my left hand which resolved with physical therapy (strengthening and massage) targeting my shoulder muscles. Wishing you the best! I hope you find a solution!
I have a mate that has an ice bath every morning (or a wheelie bin filled with water to be precise). He reckons this has improved his circulation and sorted his Raynaud's out!
HAHA! That’s brilliant. Started yoga in the morning actually… so maybe I can add wheelie bin baths to the routine
Recognised the langdales straight away. Awesome place. I quick stop at blea tarn is essential too.
go robbie go robbie la la la
🤣
Inspiring
yessssss dudeeee, the vid is deffinately your best yet, proper RUclipsr now. How you finding the lov3 for TRS thinking of getting one myself?
Hahaha thanks man! I think it’s one of my favourites for sure!
Love it! Best piece of kit I own for rope solo stuff.
Raynauds is a pesky vasospasm disorder; meaning it’s likely that your circulation overall is fine, but your body reflexively constricts your small arteries in response to stress I.e. cold, vibration, etc. it can be linked to autoimmune issues but otherwise unfortunately no cure for it. Some common methods of overcoming it are keeping your fingers “room temperature” - so handwarmers in the chalk bag, pressing fingers against your neck or armpit while climbing, breathing on them mid climb, and/or getting in a nice long proper warmup on a travel fingerboard. Hope it helps!
Suffered a bit from Reynauds, probably caused by my big Triumph motorbike which vibrated like F. It has improved quite a lot over the past 3 years or so, which I attribute to 2 minute cold showers, and breath work. I tried all that Wim Hof stuff, and I think the breathing (belly, chest, head) is very important. It oxygenates the blood making it alkaline, which has untold benefits for the cardiovascular system. The cardiovascular system is so important (apparently it would be 60000 miles if laid out in a long line).
Wim Hof says that if you have cold fingers after the shower, you should practise holding your hands in cold water every day (probably a couple of minutes).
But like a lot of things you have to do this for some time…. Try it for 3 months and see if there’s a difference… (and warmer weather helps too 😊)
i had it for a few years, more so when I was climbing harder, like you said. I found a couple things worked. like you were doing, swinging the arms to force blood out to the ends of the fingers, but also to hold my breath on an exhale for as long as I could comfortably a couple times. co2 dilates blood vessels. but you have to balance that with being relaxed because sympathetic activation (stress/fight or flight) constricts peripheral blood flow. also after swimming in the sea every day for a year straight didn't hurt. just my own 2 cents. hopefully it just goes away on its own.
Great video. Not a cure for Reynauds but a method for warming fingers - (I only mention as there was a clip of you warming your fingers on your leg.) I find putting the hand on the back of your neck does a very good job at warming the fingers. I use this for winter cycling and I go from numb to OK in maybe a minute. (Obviously only works for climbing if you can take a hand off).
Yeah it doesn’t really work for my Raynauds sadly. The swinging arms trick is the best, but I really usually need to do it for 5-10 mins continuously on both arms
Have you ever climbed in North Carolina or the New River Gorge? Would love to see you come through and crush some of the hard/technical trad and sport around these parts!
Never been! Would love to go
All 4 of you wearing red jackets is so cute haha!
Haha yeah that was funny
First accent was mind blowing from the Trad Master 🤘
Oh yeah , , , great send dude and brilliant video 😎
It sure was! Dave Birkett is a legend!
Is that a Tax Lov you're using on the top rope? Not sure about Raynaud's but early season climbing in the Canadian Rockies I would have a second clean (no chalk) chalk bag for those chemical hand warmer sachets to warm fingers mid route. You can get more environmentally friendly ones too that you warm in boiling water.
Yeah it’s the TazLov3.
That’s a fun idea! I’ve just bought an electrical hand warmer for belays.
Hi, when was this filmed?
We were on holiday last year in the Lakes and took photos of climbers on the wall you are climbing. We were amazed that there were people climbing on it!
It was earlier this spring. You may have seen Neil Gresham on the FA of Lexicon up there
Great send! and even better video. What is the name of the device you were using while working the route?
Taz Lov 3
As a climber and sufferer from Raynauds; it feels like the body just 'gives up' on trying to supply blood to the fingers too quickly, so my approach is basically do anything to prevent that mechanism from kicking in
Here will come a list of things that I think worked for me, but it's just very hard to say what does and doesn't work
1) Wear non-restrictive clothing and no big thermal differences between body and extremities If that means taking off a layer for the climb, I do it. If it's not raining, I'd rather wear a tshirt and loose-fitting oversized breathable down jacker than a 3-4 layering system that ends up feeling restrictive. So for climbing, I have 1 shirt i climb in, and a big down jacket with hand pockets. I do not wear long--sleeved shirts/jackets that are tight, or too short around the wrist. So either a tshirt, a shirt with sleeves that surpass my wristline, and then optionall with a softshell over it to block out any wind.
2) cold showers, saunas. No need to go full wim hoff; even 20 seconds cold-ish shower after a warm shower helped.
3) ginger tea. I just add some cut ginger root to my tea in the thermos flask
4) nerve flossing (plenty of youtube vids) and nerve trigger point / deep tissue massages. There are also plenty shoulder warm-ups that also bring some movement into the nerve system as well as warm up the muscles; you can google tai chi warmup for ideas
5) I also have the feeling that going keto / low-carb for a while helped me. Not sure whether it was the all-around effect of the diet, or the removal of things like gluten/yeast/sugars from my diet.
6) When I do have issues with Raynauds, and I start to exercise (ice climbing for example), at some point the blood will start flowing and will hurt like a m.f. If I reach this point, I put my hands in the snow, or in cold/running water. I really do think start off the day with either a cold shower, or other cold exposure, will help for the rest of the day, assuming afterwards you get some blood flow / adrenaline going and get warm again. It's a weird relationship
I don’t know if I had reynaurds, but when I climbed a lot I suffered with numb fingers. Even brushing my teeth would set it off.
Someone recommended vitamin B12 ( a high dose tablet not the ones that are a £1 for 50 tablets). It certainly helped my situation.
Have you tried niacin? Might provide some relief without the negative side effects of some of the more pharma solutions
What about reusable hot packs in the chalk bag, little bit of heat every time you chalk up?
Edit: You might also be able to modify the lining of a chalk bag with a heated ski sock? Time to get the engineers at Edelrid involved!
What’s the blue device that he was using at around 08:00 whilst climbing on the top rope?
I hear a Dave Macleod back there
You could chat to GP about the Raynaud’s - might be worth trying Nifedipine
Been experimenting already with nifidepine.
Have you tried electrical stimulation for Raynaud’s? I saw some studies with positive results. Maybe search it up?
I haven’t tried that (or heard of it!). I’ll have a look. Cheers
Are you doing the editing on these? Feel like I'm really noticing the quality lately 😄
Yeah man. All the editing is me :) I’m trying to get better, glad you guys think it’s improving
🔥
No idea if this would work, Robbie and not done any research, but it definitely wont do you any harm. Have you tried inverting in yoga, specifically head balance? The act of being upside down has wonderful effects on circulation, etc. May be worth trying. Get a bit of advice on correct technique for trying though cheers and keep making the videos :)
Finger and arm chi gung as part of a warmup would help
Great vid. What soloing device are you using?
Taz lov 3. Thanks man :)
@@RobbiePhillips thanks dude. Ill check it out.
Hi Robbie, What is the Name of your rope solo belaying device? Is it good for rope solo ?
It’s called a TazLov3
Bold climbing! I see Reynauds is linked with autoimmune issues, I'd listen to CarnivreMD's podcast and see if following his diet advice yields benefits for you. I've been doing his meat, organs and fruit approach to diet and seen my grades and strength go up considerably over the last few months without doing a ton of more training. Went from 12 to 32 pullups and V5 to V7 now projecting some 8s and 9s. Plus some mild autoimmune related issues appear to be improving (various rashes on skin and stubborn toe fungus).
Yeah, I know Dave likes the carnivore diet too. Will have a listen to this. Thanks for the tip :)
@@RobbiePhillips I didn't know that about Dave. Rad!
Hi Robbie Chris from Ratho here I suffered badly with Reynard and for one reason or another a couple of years ago I stopped using milk mainly for a stomach problem but for reasons I don’t know my Reynard disappeared and I have had not one single problem since. Maybe just a coincidence but hey anything is worth a try.
Remember chatting to Dave just after the 1st ascent of this, if my memory serves me correctly he was originally going to call it looney I think in part after a SA coin .
Have you had a look at the unclimbed lines on gillercombe and East buttress scafell. I think the fist last and always on esk buttress still needs the top doing where it heads off. Some hard projects!
That’s a cool we nugget of climbing trivia there!
Actually I’ve done very little climbing in the lakes let alone looking for new lines. Most of what I have climbed have been Dave Birkett’s E8’s 😂 You just can’t go wrong with them, they’re always full value!
Are you able to explain your setup for which you can try routes like these without needing a belayer? As well as any thing to watch out for and how to ensure you're backed up? Thank you.
Hey man, so yeah, I have been working on a wee video to go over this. It’s not very complicated though. Essentially a static line with a bomber belay, and a device called a TazLov3 which is my preferred device for practicality and safety. I back up with knots below in case the device fails, you can also backup with something like a micro trax for added security. And that’s basically it…. For steeper climbs there are more technical tricks you can play around with to make sure you are kept close into the wall
@@RobbiePhillips I just wanted the ask the same. Thanks for the answer.
No worries. Stay tuned for a video on this subject. It’s taking a bit more time as it needs it :)
@@RobbiePhillips Looking forward to the video. I have so many questions. Hopefully it will be answered. I watched Dave Macleod's video of his setup, which he has pulled down unfortunately, and got gear ready for that but there seems to be lots of negative reviews on the usage of the shunt. Wish I knew of the TazLov3 prior. It seems quite $$$ though. Also if the route requires a dyno do you still use static rope here? Keep up the great content. Cheers.
Great vid Robbie what's your rope solo device?
Thanks Morgan. I use the TazLov3
@@RobbiePhillips cool thanks....would love to see an in depth review 🤞
@@morgan7a It's brilliant for working routes, and doing laps. Ascend, descend, no messing about switching gear.
What device do you use when you are trs on the static line ?
It’s called a Taz lov 3
@@RobbiePhillips 💜💜
first you have to determine what type of raynaud's but there's not a lot of good options other than just doing your best to keep the hands warm between activities :(
With Raynaud's disease you won't have to suffer sweaty hands ha. I do remember you said from the last video that it could have been from the tightening around the nerves causing a lack of blood flow , well maybe you should try going once a week to a professional masseuse to get a forearm, wrist ,and a hand massage. Try ten sessions and see if it helps. Certainly can't hurt.
Yeah man, actually it doesn’t seem to make a difference with my sweaty fingers haha
I am currently going to acupuncture twice a week at the moment. Been to see a physio in Greece who suspects it could be a trapped nerve in the neck - had an MRI a few days ago in case it’s a herniated disk… covering all bases
@@RobbiePhillips Keep at it ,and you'll top out this pain in the neck.
Fkn cool
Lege. Looks terrifying
Haha it was nae too bad
i like
the patreon link isnt working
Ahhh sorry… it’s actually the link in the video, not the end. Need to change that.
Think the link is www.patreon.com/RobbieClimbing
the link at the end of your vid takes you to your old patreon
I only have one patreon :) Should be just “Robbie Phillips Patreon”
Oh wait… now I get you. The end part. I’ll change that. Thanks for notifying me
What device is he using while working the route? Grigri / shunt?
looks like the Taz Lov2 from what I can tell, a pretty good Top Rope soloing device, not easy to find though
@@stsam63 yes that' s it. I use a microtraxion together with it as a Backup though
@@hansolo2103 that’s fair, in any rope solo situation you should using some sort of backup, the micro trax is a really common popular option
It was the TazLov3 actually. Yeah and I don’t use a backup, just a knot in the rope. The reason I like it is because it makes moving up and down so easy.
@@RobbiePhillips Thanks for the info. It looks really convenient.
Your ulnar nerve might be be getting enough blood supply or as you suggested is pinched. Finding a good orthopedic hand surgeon who might run the necessary diagnostics might be a good start.
Thanks Arina. I’ll definitely consider this. Beeen to a speocialist physio and currently waiting on some MRI results back
So fucking good, everyone subscribe
Cheers 🍻
Totems are the ones
Hell yeah!
One for this evening (watch not climb 🤣).
One for the future then 😉 (climb not watch)
Listened to a podcast interviewing Wim Hof recently he claims he can cure Reynauds
Yeah I have heard this too. Going to look into this
Robbie - Wim Hof method!!!! Contact him directly :)
try making sure your vitamin K2 levels are good, do intermittent fasting, and hot/cold shock therapy
Such a shame to have to mark the rock with chalk. Why not try to climb without doing that?
Well it’s a lot harder… also chalk washes off in the rain, of which it rains constantly in the lakes, so I wouldn’t worry too much about the visual effects. Also, it’s up a mountain that the route i climbed is barely visible to the naked eye from any path a Walker would be on, so don’t think they’ll be noticing smudges of chalk on micro edges and pockets. Lastly, I brushed off the tick marks.
Great video! I heard Sildenafil (viagra) has used been as a treatment for raynauds. It worked for one of my friends. However it might mean you will have upload yours videos to different (and more adult) video site.
I've got Reynaud's as well. It frickin' hurts when you're climbing on numb ghost fingers! Robbie, check out this paper called 'Sildenafil in the Treatment of Rayneud's Phonomenon Resistant to Vasodilatory Therapy' in the AHA Journal. Side effects mostly seem to be headaches, among other things...
Thanks for the note Daniel! Interesting read… I’ll definitely check this out! Currently experimenting with something called “Nifedipine” - gave me heart palpitations last time I used it though… freaks me out a bit these meds!
@@RobbiePhillips Nifedipine is a calcium channel blocker. If you want to experiment with it, start with extremely small doses. It will affect your heart rhythm and will block your blood pressure.
@@ArinaThomsen yeah makes sense... didn't feel great. I tried 20mg as was recommended by a doc, but they did say that i could adjust levels as required