'Not a Hope in Hoy' | Climbing the world's hardest sea cliff
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Follow climbers Robbie Phillips and Alex Moore as they attempt to climb the World's Hardest Sea Cliff climb, "The Longhope" (E10) on St John's Head, Hoy, Orkney.
Professional rock climber, Robbie Phillips, returns to the Scottish island of Orkney to climb 'The Long Hope'. The infamous climb is a big wall sea cliff only climbed by the most famous rock climbers, including Ed Drummonds and Dave Macleod.
After it's world premiers at Kendal Mountain Festival 2022, 'Not a Hope in Hoy' is making it's digital debut on RUclips.
Special thanks to:
Ryan Balharry (@ryan_balharry) for amazing camera work and never ending support on the climb 🎥
Erica Izzi (@acireama) for the graphics and Adobe tech support when I was losing my mind mid-edit 🫠
Paul Diffley (@hotachesproductions) for letting me use the images from the start of his original longhope film
Marie Taggart (@marieclaretaggart) for helping me find the golden thread to pull this altogether and helping me to make sure as many people saw the film as humanly possible!
And so many folk who helped promote the film, reviewed it and provide feedback, and who were genuinely there when I needed a helping hand :)
And Mildred of course :)
Respect....... You nutter!
💥👍❤️🇬🇧
Awesome film Robbie. Great job to the whole team. Such a good effort from Alex doing that pitch after sitting on the belay for an hour and a half 💪
Cheers Pete! Yeah, second person up is always harder… cold after the belay and pressure is on! Was a perfect end to the adventure
Birds are not real so this whole climb is fake.
Thanks so much for putting this up for free on RUclips Robbie. Best climbing film I have seen in a long time deserves millions of views !
Wow!!! Thanks man! That would be cool :)
Outrageously good! The end of the climb where both of you were so fatigued, literally took my breath away. Hats off!
Thanks :) Yeah topping out was a dream!
37:55 emotional peak of the film, the fact that robbie is scared throughout doing this is a crazy confidence boost honestly. i see good rock climbers as super human for their ability to get over the height and the danger, but it could be me with enough balls.
I’ve always felt our experiences as climbers are mostly quite similar no matter what level you’re at. It’s all relative :) Everyone gets scared, it’s just how we manage it at the time that makes the difference.
Great film. You really managed to share the experience with us. So honest. And the joy of success, so clear. Now I understand the true value of the route. I have always feared that repeat ascents would not start at the bottom but only half way up. Alex's comments chime with my experience: Similar amateur training whilst working along way away. Upper wall relatively solid, particularly crux pitch. Lower wall a challenge. If you think of it, the lower wall must have had at least 30 ascents or attempts over the years and as far as I know no serious injuries. So just needs good dodgy rock technique: push down, not pull out. ...and if you do not have the margin, keep away. Not that either Ed, nor I in particular, had any margin, learning on the job. For a job as a journalist for ED. For me my holiday.....as Alex's. I am not sure either of us had any enjoyment, except when the sun came out and the puffins flapped. And we got to the top and home.
Thanks both of you for explaining the purpose of the route, and indeed the purpose of climbing.
One omission : John Arran and Dave Turnbull's First Free Ascent in 1997. They and Ed paved the way. I helped them keep going on route; and encouraged Dave Macleod to make it straighter!
Only just got round to watching this! Great work boys! It's nice to know that you guys get the fear like us mere mortals! The ups and downs make for a great adventure 😁
Absolutely superb. A brilliant film. Captures the essence of the insanity of the route and the struggle so well.
Thanks for putting this out for free Robbie, it's exceptional! Really enjoyed the watch. I hate choss so there's no way you'd see me on something like this.
No problem at all. Don’t really think these films should be paid for anyway - everyone should be able to enjoy them :)
Wow. That's a really awesome hard route. I've loved the drama of sea cliff climbs, but at the easy end. My best memories are from Lundy, Chair Ladder, Pembroke and Bosigran in SW England. Love the gulls watching you from their comfortable ledges. Lovely you've identified the same gull in multiple years!
Dude this is EPIC, absolutely EPIC. These screams on last pitch got me screaming man! You are beasts :)
Phenomenal climbing film. I'll never have the ability, or courage, to climb anything like this so thanks for giving me the privilege of living it vicariously.
Brilliant film, inspiring!
Ever since reading the news I hoped there would be a video. 50 min long, very excited to watch this
Epic ! That's the kind of climbing movies that gets me so stoked !
I'm very impressed indeed. I did a new route in Guernsey in the 1980's. The climbing was vertical but relatively easy. It wasn't reversable and at 120 ft without gear on choss I was shitting myself. I called it fools paradise. I doubt the route has had a second assent. I was frightened with you watching the video. An amazing achievement which you should be proud of. Congratulations to you and the team who no doubt were terrified videoing the accent.
Thanks man! Sounds like a terrifying FA!
There was no team… just one man, Ryan Balharry. He shot the entire thing and I edited it :)
@@RobbiePhillips An excellent production. All three of you deserve credit for a an incredibly achievement. One of the best accents in years.
Stunning climb Robbie...you tried REALLY hard trought that hearth breaking picht ...amazing...nothing more, nothing less...💪🏻
thanks man! Put it all out there really... that's all you can really do on these climbs
@@RobbiePhillips yeah...you do really fight for your life on these moves...thanx for sharing with us a such important part of yours 🙏🏻
Wow. What an incredible watch - funny, intense scary + beautiful all in one.
Loved the fulmar cameos 😂
Got to be one of my all time fave climbing films.
Amazing climb guys and superb camera work!! What an adventure. Much love from Belgium
Awesome, love the wired/relieved/disbelief reactions at the end, after all that!
Thank you Robbie for sharing this on youtube. An epic climb, adventure and film. Thank you :)
Of course! RUclips is the best place for sharing and archiving adventures :)
Brilliant film. Loved it & your emotions really came across well. Quality
What an intro to full-feature film! Loved it, so well put together!
Thanks dude :)
"Sometimes the best days start out crap" Alex gives Robbie a look :D
Great filming, deserves something great, like medals or free beer.
Just epic, great movie loved every part of it
Amazing film guys. Huge congratulations and can't wait to watch more challenges you set yourself
This is proving so enjoyable. And Alex is such a good sport. Great adventure and you guys are so funny at the same time.
Alex was the perfect partner. Finding someone whose capable but also so fun to hang out with for weeks on end is the biggest challenge. For sure we’ll team up for some more big stuff again i future
Damn this is a whole movie, absolutely superb!
Best i've watched all year!
I have very high respect for you guys. Great courage and resolve.
Couldn't fault u both seeing as it was overcast and not very nice!..it looked cold and damp ,plus a couple of nuts
failed superb effort both🧗🏽♀️🧗🏽♀️👍excellent
this makes me so inspired to go into the gym and just climb till night. Love the content and hats off too u guys.
Best climbing film ever!
Haha! Yassss!!!
Absolutely fabulous. An amazing achievement in an amazing part of the world.
What a journey, amazing to watch . Congrats lads
Awesome work man. I remember climbing with you at the old Alien 2 back in edinburgh. Not only are you still crushing, your now making awesome content and showcasing that strong Scottish spirit. Cheers for the inspiration to go climb some gnarly Trad!
Oh man the A2 days 🥲 I miss them! What an incredible place and community. Edinburgh climbing is not the same without it. So many awesome climbers came from there too…
@@RobbiePhillips Absolutely man! I live in Queenstown in New Zealand now though, pretty epic spot for climbing here. If you ever make it out this way I'd be happy to host!
@@paulshipman9717 that would be amazing! been wanting to visit Castle Hill for many years :D
best climbing movie of the year!!!!
Excellent video guys! I'd like to meet the birds one day. Mildred seems nice.
She’s a lovely lassy! Hope you get to meet her one day
great vid, huge from both of you
Not always the biggest fan of your videos, but what a nice film this was! class. Well done!
Great watch 👌👌👌
Amazing video! Amazing experience and adventure!!!
Great job! Intense, raw story telling set the tone 👍
You're a god damn living legend! Sick send can't believe those nuts broke like that! Skip the Bahamas and hit up Puerto Rico some cool climbing there!
Would love to!
Wow man. So so soooo well done! Really an inspiration.
Inspiring efforts Robbie (and Alex). Always wanted to do this, but suspect I might have to settle for Big John instead, as that looks a little more achievable. Still looks pretty wild mind!!!
Cheers Rob! Big John is on my list too - looks mega! Beyond the climbing, Hoy is just a magical place. Rackwick bay is beautiful and if you are inclined to, worth bringing a surf board along too for the waves 🏄♂️
@@RobbiePhillips It really is, isn't it?! Sorry we didn't get to catch-up at Kendal properly btw - kept seeing you across the room, but never quite managed to make it across!!
This was even better than i could have hoped for, will reccomment to all my climbing and non climbing homies :)
Please do :)
Absolutely sublime filmmaking. Inspirational stuff. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Really enjoyed this Robbie
That fall with the ripped gear is crazy, shows you had bomber placements though I guess
Amazing video and climbing. I met you guys in the lil cafe ! Congratulations!! epic work! 🙌🙌🙌
Hey Carly. Nice to hear from you :) yeah I remember we all met at the cafe ☕️ 🧁 hope hoy is treating you well
Just awesome!!!
First class stuff mate, bravo :)
Fantastic ma guys
Wonderful! Thanks for that! Please tell us. How on earth do you manage the fear after the gear, three or four pieces broke? Where do you get the trust? I am so scarred lately...
Hey Alexis. I assessed that what happened was a bit of a freak accident. I’m still uncertain why all the gear failed in the way it did, there are folk much cleverer than me right now trying to figure that one out 😅 But my assessment was that it was extremely unlikely to happen again. Also, one thing that wasn’t mentioned in the video is that Alex made a mistake when clipping the gear, and he actually missed one piece… so also a part of me felt that there was a slightly larger margin for error now with that extra piece.
This is probably incredibly unhelpful, but I’m pretty good at putting things out of my mind whilst climbing. Call it experience, but I’ve spent so long doing this stuff that I can shift gear into a bit of a “Focus mode” when I need to just get on with the climbing. I was really wanting to get up the longhope, and not much was likely to break my focus.
Lastly, I did feel that Alex’s fall was big, but not dangerous. If the last cam had failed, I still think he could potentially have missed any ledges and just flown down the wall a bit further 😂
Amazing
Massive well done to you both, that was an epic climb and a brilliant video. I'm amazing that the gear ripped. Some of that rock looked like chocolate cake!
Amazing guys. Locked inside with a bad ankle atm, but this video has made my day. I can only imagine how good a cup of tea tasted at the end of that day. And seeing the shit, puke, choss and misery you went through for that ascent, I have never wanted to try a big wall more in my life. Keep it up. Hope to see you guys on the wall some day. If you're ever looking for some virgin rock in cork, hit me up. I might know a few walls and caves for you to try.
Love me an Irish adventure! I’m there every year actually, but usually in the winter for Scarpa work 🥶 might do a trip to west coast of Ireland next year though
I'm not a climber but a cyclist. I really enjoyed this film. In fact I watched another one where you are in the Lakes and Reynauds comes up. I have this too, not great when you have to control a bike. Anyway my Dr prescribed Nifidepine I'm probably spelling that incorrectly.
It's a blood thinner which I use when I know it's going to be single figures. Heated gloves also help but realise that's not an option for you. Maybe before you start though to get the blood flowing in your fingertips.👍
Amazing video!!
Mildred was the real mvp.
Awesome film, really feel the adventure. Crazy that so much gear broke! I wonder if it was weakened by rubbing on sandstone on those tight pitches..?
I don’t think so… i need to reach out to a few gear companies to ask them
Amazing movie, thank you
23:00 Yikes...there goes a degree of my confidence in the gear....
Mildred fav character in the film
great video!
That was special. Well played guys. Was expecting your feathered Friend to ruin your big speech at the end and let u have it 😀
HAHA! No… Mildred would never do that 😂
Aww, that thank you to Mildred made it for me! 😂
Of course!! 🐦
Fucking awesome!! Well done dudes, congrats!!!
Frightened the life out of me just to watch it
The whole time, I'm wondering "WHY?". The choss, the danger, the vomit... Then on the last pitch I see, "Oh thaaaats why." Great effort climbing, and filming. Also loved how much you focus on the birds!
Of course. They’re such a big part of the climb it would be a shame to miss them out
A crack ascent gents. Bloody awesome
What was the device you were abbing down on?
Thanks Tony. It was a TazLov3 :) fav device
Do you know why the gear ripped? Was it really small stuff? Did you adjust your gear placements afterwards?
I loved all of this, but particularly the soliloquy at 37:17 on the Vice pitch; just brought home the continuous effort required and made me laugh a lot!
Shame we didn't see any actual fulmar puking action (clearly Mildred had had a few words about giving her compadres bad press), and you must've been a bit gutted not to have captured the actual ledge that broke at 32:14...
Haha yeah we didn’t catch any puking and the ledge breaking. Blame Ryan Balharry for that 😂 He missed the ledge break by a matter of seconds, but it’s possibly the most terrifying thing I’ve witnessed as he was about to fall directly into the belay
What a banger!
amazing
Failure the first time around made this more special, I'm sure. Nice story, fun peeps!
Epic! I gotta be less chickenshit when I'm climbing.
Brillant
mega!!!
I'm hyped
Is that static rope?
the white rope is
33:53 does an atc work like that when belaying from the top?
Yeah it does. Back in the day that’s how you did it until they brought in “guide mode”. Tbh I’m not quite sure why people don’t do “guide mode” all the time… there are potentially some situations where it might not be suitable but I rarely find them.
❤👏👏👏👏👏👏✊
Yea, nah.
Birds are not real. So this is how we know you never actually climbed this "cliff face".
First one! 🤣
?
Ive been waiting, robbie 🥸
Miss you bud
Good to be back! And I’ve got more on the way 🫡
Major props, what a beautiful, difficult sea cliff to climb!!! So entertaining and engaging as well!
Amazing climbing movie - thanks so much for sharing and what an achuievement. However i was a bit horrified that 3 bits of gear all broke on a single fall like that. Do you have any insights as to why this might have happened?
Must have been a cunning plan to get Alex on board. "Yeh its just like bouldering, grades are bit easier, see it as a full day of bouldering, without the hassle of carrying crash matts in."
Yeah… that was pretty much the conversation 🤣
A true sporting achievement by two humble lads. Congratulations on a very well deserved send.
Wonderfully, ridiculously good! Mildred and her fulmar friends earned a place in my heart, and "sequences are an artform" are definitely words to -live- climb by.
Thanks man! Mildred is the most famous fulmar in the world now haha
If there’s a better climbing film out there then I haven’t seen it. Compulsive watching and beautifully done. What a climb . Superb job, magnificently filmed. Hats off…
Wow! Comment of the century!!! Thanks man :D
This is absolutely mega! Smashed it guys 😃just mental that this stuff exists in the UK. Climbing and film-making at its best! Alex's fall sounded like a real scarer, and Robbie fiddling in that nut on the crux pitch had me sweating 😰ace film Robbie, psyched to see your future projects. For now just dreaming of meeting Mildred one day...
(PS technical Q, what's the rope solo device you're using at 21:00? Thanks!)
Thanks so much man! Doing the climb was amazing, but reliving it throughout the edit was also so much fun. Speaking to folk at KMF and reading all the comments of people that enjoyed it and are inspired makes all the time into the edit feel worthwhile :)
The device is a TazLov3. My favourite rope solo device. Wouldn’t use anything else :)
Robbie gives the Tazlov3 a lot of love in his interview on the nugget podcast and why it's so functional. That whole interview is a great listen btw.
Looks like a number 5 half nut and number 3 brass nut that failed? Both 6kn pieces. Never seen something like that in one fall. Crazy
Yeah something like that. Blue half nut for sure and Green brass… i think?
Without a doubt, one of the best climbing films in a very long time. So good Robbie, sooo damn good
Haha thanks man! That’s one hell of a compliment :)
Drummond was an adventurous chap, and not a bad writer either. The only thing worse than a fulmar is an emptymar.
25.57 Exemplary stroopwafel technique!
Ought to go on tvmountain .. show the frenchies some proper climbing!