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How To Remove A Stuck Bottom Bracket From Your Bike | GCN Tech Monday Maintenance
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- Опубликовано: 29 ноя 2020
- There's nothing worse than your bottom bracket getting seized in your bike frame. You've tried every trick in the book, but it just won't budge! Well, thankfully, Alex is on hand with a few tips and tricks to help you remove that BB, and prevent it happening again in the future!
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Have you ever had your bottom bracket get stuck in your frame? How did you get it out? Let us know in the comments below!
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Have you ever had your bottom bracket get stuck in your frame? How did you get it out? Let us know in the comments below!
Drop a few pellets of dry ice down the seattube. And heat it with a hairdryer. But that is if penetrating spray and a lever has failed.
Invest in the correct tool.
Campagnolo makes a six pin tool for threaded cartridge botoom brackets that is better than aftermarket alternatives.
With threaded, if everything you try has failed, I recommend a 60 in. long pipe wrench. Be sure you're turning it the correct way.
Cut the steel bb shell with angle grinder, pry out the shell open and unscrew using the tool. Install new cartridge. Clamp shell tightly closed and Weld short sections icing to prevent overheating cartridge. Not for the faint of heart but it works!
Just gave up and bought a new bike. N+1...
HELLO HAMBINI FANS,
Some tips from me for threaded.
1. Run a tap down the threads before you install the BB, bottom bracket threads are fine pitched for their diameter (1.0mm or 24 threads per inch), it's easy to get some cack in there and aluminium is soft so it will deform.
2. Agree with the presenter, use grease. Lithium grease or something with a VERY HIGH NLGI rating, something like a 2 or 3. Grease in this case is not there for lubrication like a bearing, it's there as a static seal and assembly aid.
3. When removing, these open spanner type units are often water cut or laser cut from sheet metal, they are comparatively weak at the tips. The cup type thing he had is much better. Obviously this depends on how seized it is.
4. Although he doesn't recommend heat, I do, I'd heat the entire BB area up with a hairdryer and then spray some freeze spray like loctite onto the axle, Do this a few times and you will usually wonder where the resistance was.
A word on failure mechanisms. The usual method of failure or inevitable problem with these bottom brackets is galvanic corrosion. This is caused by the bottom bracket ending up like a battery and enhancing corrosion. The best solution to stop this happening is to remove your bottom bracket frequently, - you don't necessarily have to replace it.
Some tips for pressfit.
1. Measure the bottom bracket hole and bottom bracket before you install it. The majority of seizures happen because of excessive interference. The recommended interference across the board is 0.05mm. 0.03mm is better and my recommendation.
2. If this type of BB seizes, REMOVE THe bearings before you try to hammer the cups out. The majority of residual stress keeping it in are the steel races. The cups have comparatively little contribution to the retention.
3. if you are still struggling to hammer it out, then take the bearings out, and get a hacksaw and cut a slit into the sides of the bottom bracket. YOU DO NOT Need to go all of the way through, just enough to weaken the side wall.
And the final thing is, your shiny bike with it's brand name is no guarantee of quality. Do your measurements and check for yourself before you buy.
I have a seriously seized threaded square taper, was thinking heat, but propane is scary when it comes to an aluminum frame, hair dryer and freeze spray a lot less so. Thanks!
The man, the myth, the legend
Not bad for a Frenchman
By Hambini, age 5
Sanjeev Varah why are you commenting?
My first question anytime someone mentions a stuck BB..... "which way did you try to turn the wrench??"
Anti clockwise on non drive side and clockwise on the drive side
As a shop owner, I've had bikes that would NOT have made this look so easy. NO amount of penetrating fluid helped after a couple of days, and various "cheater" bars did not help either. Older model bike with the threaded BB, so the only option was heat and had no issues getting it out. Now, a carbon frame is a different story, but if you're a trained mechanic, I would not worry about heat as long as it i not held in one spot all the time.
Make sure you know if its english or italian thread !
Love this comment 😂😂😂
@@RoncoGarage italian are losen the other way round.... just on one side... no joke ;) (sry for bad english)
@@Kinderlutschbonbon I'm italian, I know it 😂
@@RoncoGarage ;D
4:01 Hey! Some of us are just watching because we enjoy GCN content.
(Granted, my BB is most likely seized but I wasn't here for that nor have a pressing need to remove it by myself in the medium term)
4:46 he went full Jezza-more POWERRRR
Brilliant video! Thank you Alex for all the wonderful information.
Most important for threaded....make sure you are bashing it the right way! Not all threads are lefty loosy, righty tighty.
Exactly as he showed in this video, in fact. He had to turn it clockwise to loosen it.
@@indorock Correct. Bottom brackets are threaded opposite pedals: right side(drive side) is _left-hand_ threaded, left (non-drive) side is right-hand threaded.
In case you didn't already know, this is to keep the bottom bracket from unscrewing itself as you ride.
@@surlyogre1476 I always thought that too but in this bike shown it was the opposite as normal, on his drive side he turned it clockwise to loosen 🤔
@@davidmidcalf3470 maybe i am wrong but i thing if you look from the right side with the chain rings the main force is applied by rotating the crank clockwise.
The axle rotates clockwise so the bearing tends to rotate anticlockwise and and so a force is pushing the inner bracket anti clockwise( imagine a ball turning clockwise with a ball on top wich is then turning anticlockwise. The ball on top is the bearing the other one is the turning axle) so the bracket is on this side left hand threaded.
@@davidmidcalf3470 Sorry. I went back and watched the video again. At 0:25 and again at 4:25 the presenter turns the wrench _clockwise_ to remove the BB.
The drive side _is_ left-hand threaded.
edit: Perhaps I misread your post... I think we agree?
Hi Buddy ..your method worked ..thanks for the tips online. Eagerly waiting for few more tips and tricks for keeping the bike sound :)
Alex - soaked the BBR60 twice in 24 hours using WD four zero , then using my wrench , Park tools adapter cap and a spare Brompton seatpost I have removed the BB first go ! (after an epic struggle I lost 2 days ago) Frame only on the kitchen floor for more purchase and able to use my body weight. Thank you for this video . I can now fit the new BB in my ribble CGR ti and crack on .
Thanks
Anyone would think that Park made the BBT-4 handle so short and stubby that you'd have to buy the extension as well 🤭
I don't think Park Tool sells an "extension." It looks like Alex grabbed a crown race setting tube to use as an extension, but any suitable piece of tubing will do.
Option 1: Get a hammer. Doesn't work? Option 2: Phone Hambini. 😎
Option 3: make PowerPoint presentation.
Option 4: Utter scumbags!
Hello Hambini fans 😂
errr Shambini would probably try and sell you one of his $1m BBs
Hello!!! Hambini !!! Fans!!! Hambini doesn't deal with this type of shade tree bodge. The average cyclist can't afford his stuff or the sometimes defective shite his products fix. He is needed to get the major manufacturers heads out of their asses. Otherwise it's aluminum for me.
Got a new BB & Crankset arriving today, hopefully I don't need this video later on but if I do thank you in advance lol
Oh gosh - had to do this recently on a square taper BB. Ended up having to ask a mechanic friend to help. In the end, he had to use a blow torch 😱
I had one stuck last week... took bike off stand and stood it on the floor in order to apply more pressure.
I had to trash a single speed frame, because the manufacturer did not install the BB with grease. The BB was impossible to remove.
So, after buying a bike or frame, service your BB directly straight away. The same for the seatpost: remove, grease and re install.
Kettle full of Boiling water Has helped me out a couple of times loosening A Stubborn BB.
Awesome frame. Was it a triangular top and down tube. I have one in blue, 20 years old now.
I've changed a lot of bbs over the years and I still can't remember which way to turn them 😂 I had to watch the video to see which way you turned. Not an issue with newer bbs as they will have a 'tighten this way' arrow. Older, cheaper bbs that screw in don't.
My favorite way -and the one that works when everything else fails - my Milwaukee impact driver
Nice to see a Ribble on the channel.
Honestly I wouldn't have felt patronised if when discussing the old school threaded bottom brackets you'd said, "remember the BB right side is unscrewed clockwise". 😳
My BB wasn't seized at all, whereas my brain was! 😅
😂😂
#askgcntech Hi. I was thinking of upgrading my bike by fitting it with carbon seatpost. Do you know if using it along with bikepacking saddle-bag (c.a. 15L) can damage it? Im thinking rather about breaking rather than scratches as the ones can be mitigated with electric tape. Thanks. Marek
I've tried everything except heating. pretty big hammer, frame was laying on static support so could hammer pretty hard. Added some industrial solvent. Actually I removed the cap of the bearing but just because the tool slips off the side of the bearing which is weird, looks pretty firm when I investigated it.
I find square taper cranks seize on just as bad, try and use the tool and it just rips the threads out the inner of the crank, I've had this with 2 of 3 old bikes Im doing up. I think I might invest in an angle grinder
This happened to me only yesterday on a bike I got cheaply & thought I'd replace the cranks on.
I was screwing in the extractor thinking, surely it's gotta give soon. Then it got easier. The only part of the crank that came off with the tool was a spiral of the aluminium thread from inside the crank. Thought, nup, they're stayin there. 🤣🤣🤣
Thankfully this chore only cost me my marriage. Both our bikes getting upgrades, but her BB seized when we attempted to remove. Threaded square taper Shimano BB removed with the cursed spline removal tool. Used socket spline tool held in place with a carpenter's clamp, then turned using old heavy duty pipe wrench.
Pro tip for ya (for older threaded BB shells):
After BB removal and cleaning up with a rag and some solvent, go to the hardware store & get yourself a 1 1/2" round radial wire brush to be used in a drill. You gotta kinda push it into the BB shell, but once you do, it will clean it out like magic. Utilize the drill reverse depending on what side you're doing. You'll be AMAZED at how it scours out and cleans up the threads. Truly amazing. Pretty much equivalent to running a set of taps through it.
Here I am watching a video about bottom brackets when I still use a square tapered one. I would recommend plusgas as a penetrating oil, it stinks though.
There something about those older bikes like the ribble that I love. You don't feel too bad that you use it for errands and the like, because its not your best. Its not gonna crack because its not carbon- they are dependable and reliable
Had the correct tools to get my press fit bb out bit couldn't in the end I took it to the local bike shop and they had to cut it out. Next bike is going to be threaded best of luck
Here's a tip I found out the hard way - after the Campag square taper BB tool slipped off. Use the bolt in the end of the taper to clamp the tool against the keys on the bearing race (using suitable spacers). I then used a 3 foot scaffold tube to apply leverage. It was on the ground NOT in a stand.
I had a bottom bracket really seized, on a 20 years old touring bike that was used twice in Canadian winters through the snow and salt. The proper tool and a 60cm breaker bar did not work. Neither did anti-seize fluid and a big hammer on the breaker bar. Finally my son who has worked on old cars suggested using an impact gun. It worked like magic, instantly. On another cross-country bike, after 5 snowy and salty Canadian winters, before knowing about the impact gun magic, I had an hollotech II bottom bracket (aluminium?) stuck in a steel frame. I carefully cut the bottom bracket cup in three and was able to destructively remove it piece by piece.
#askgcntech
The TL/DR version: Is low stack height and compact bars twitchy? Is high stack height and deeper drop bars more stable?
The Ollie version:
Could you please explain how a stem's stack height affects the handling characteristics/stability of a bike? Raising and lowering your stem will help achieve a desired riding position, however the stem's stack height and the depth/shallowness of the handlebars are separate metrics which affect riding position, both on the flats and in the drops. Essentially: You could achieve a desired performance riding position in the drops by changing the drop depth of your handlebars, not just your stem height. However, since the steerer angle is not perpendicular to the ground, messing with stack height also affects front end responsiveness. Raising the stem also brings the pivot point toward the back of the bike, while lowering it pushes it toward the front of the bike.
Similar to how "trail" affects stability of a bicycle, I want to know how stem stack height affects the pivot point and responsiveness of the front end.
Hypothetically: All metrics considered (including the small change in the stem's reach when you raise and lower it, again due to the steerer tube angle), if I could achieve the exact same riding position in the drops with high stack height and deeper drop bars as I could with a slammed stem and shallow drop bars, what would be the benefits/drawbacks?
Thanks guys and keep up the great content.
Great video, thanks very much. I was wondering if you might be able to do a small feature about front mech cable rollers please. I use CX bike as my main bike and it has one of these behind the bb/seat tube. I never know how tight to set this at and if I should grease it etc. It gets really dirty from commuting. Also, are there are good quality upgrades for this part - a nice Hope anodised version for example? Cheers, P
I'd recommend a good pair of fenders/mudguards too keep the muck away from yourself and the bike.
It would be really helpful to mention if it has left or right handed thread and on what side???
#torqueback I have a round tube bike from the early 2000’s and wanted to make some inexpensive aero upgrades. I wanted to ask if there was any way to make the frame more aero by adding small and subtle addons to make it resemble aero frame tube shapes. It’s ok if these aero upgrades just last for one ride. Examples: somehow make the downtube more ‘airfoil’, likewise the seat tube. I of course don’t mean bending the actual frame, just small addons to make it mimic that design. Pros and cons to potential added weight. (Using card board or some other material)
Removed my plastic pressfit bb a while back. It took a fair amount of bashing to get it out. Horrible job to do on a nice frame. I turned bike upside down and put bike between legs to support.
i might need to try this or a bigger hammer or both
Why are bottom bracket threats not in the same direction as pedals? Is it so they don't over tighting
Hi There. Great video. I've never taken a BB out but I did notice you turned the spanner clockwise to undo it, which suggests to me it's a left hand thread. Are they all left hand threaded if the screw type? Oh, I would always wear thick gloves so as not to get knuckle rash 😀 with a slipping spanner
Probably 99% of threaded bottom brackets are "English Threaded", with left-hand threads on the right side and right-hand threads on the left. The other threaded bottom bracket type you're likely to see is "Italian Threaded" which is right-hand threaded on both sides. If you look closely at the side of the BB, it will often be marked "1.375 x 24" (English) or "36 x 24" (Italian). This might be a good primer: www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-standards-and-terminology
@@mattgies Thank you. I did not know that about Italian threaded BB.
@@surlyogre1476 Cheers!
4:15 Joke's on you, I tried with a torque wrench that clicked at 200nm and it didn't work 😂
An RAC man was replacing a dead car battery on my drive.
I had an Ocatalink square taper I couldn’t get off. We used the park tool bit on the end of a leverage crank, about 1.5 metres long. Slipped right off.
2 vehicles at once😃
Octalink and square taper are different designs... it's one or the other...
I see the piece of pipe you are using as the snipe is branded Park tools. Is it a SN-01?
You're probably kidding, but it's a CRS-1 in case anybody's wondering.
@@mattgies Yes, totally kidding. Glad you got the sarcasm.
I’ve been working on mine for two days. Completely seized. The lock nut has now slightly deformed It’s had so much stress on it. And heat. What’s next? Cutting it out?
That jerking acting to break the threads loos strips them more often than not. Try gently tapping with that “big” ( what a joke ) hammer and reapplying the penetrating oil one day at a time for a week. Come Saturday, that Sunday project will have unthreaded as if new. And use anti seize for reassembly
This bike was really easy to assemble ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Here are two great videos that will show you how to make your own bearing press and bearing removal tool really inexpensively: ruclips.net/video/y877LgyFpo8/видео.html for the bearing press and ruclips.net/video/VkY879pMafE/видео.html for the bearing removal tool. Both work extremely well and will save you a lot of money.
anti-seize* not grease.
As per Park Tool recomendation, you shall apply a bit of ThreadLocker, if you dont have that put Anti-Seize, if you dont have any of those, at least grease.
@@CyclingLifePT That’s an odd recommendation, since those three materials all serve very different purposes. Their recommendation should be to use the appropriate stuff, and if you don’t have any, go get some.
Anyone else notice how many times Alex said "Bottom bracket"? I counted 52 in one 7:45 video. Ollie couldn't manage that many "Hour Record" mentions, nor could Dan manage that many "Cervelo Test Team" mentions in a weeks worth of videos 🤣
If the BB is really stuck, take the Bike off of the Stand and put it on it's wheels so as to not lose torque to the flex in the stand mounts. Also, might try bolting the BB tool to the Crank Axle mount holes so that the BB tool does not slip off.
Strange that it wasnt one of the fancy sponsors bikes. I wonder why not 🤔 bad PR ?
Strange that you didn't see the parktool and muc-off sponsors in this video ;)
@@simonpeneau7802 Good point, missed that bit.
I couldn't get mine off. Going to let the wd 40 work overnight. If that doesn't work, acetone to get rid of loctite? Maybe hacksaw it off. Maybe big hammer or tube.
good video, i wonder if anyone has counted how many times he has said...........
Sprays half a can of penetrating fluid away from the thread juncture.....
And onto the braking surface!
Is that a Park Tool branded tube? 🧐😅
Crown race setter.
Wrong! I'm watching this because TV sucks and i love bikes, all bikes, everything about them and for 43 years. As such my bikes run mostly without issue and i would hope not to have to actually 'need' to watch this.
Good video. No luck yet - going to leave WD40 overnight to work its magic, hopefully!
Thank you! In order to get enough leverage I used my fork as the metal tube and it worked 😂
When knocking out push fit BBs I would definitely not hold the frame by the seat post and start hitting the BB with a hammer - Noooooooo. I invert the bike on the floor and support it with my thighs while I hammer the BB out. Remember that with a Shimano you need to prise out the central dust tube to reveal the bearings. Nobody ever tells you that!
I'm watching this video because there's nuthin on TV.
There are of course more sophisticated extraction tools to remove a pressfit bearing than just "a bigger hammer".
First time removing bb and thought it was stuck, watched vid and realised I was yanking the wrong direction 🤦♂️
900th like! Penetrating oil, here we go!
Mine is seized. I've never had such a humiliating defeat. I'm going to try a breaker bar and if that doesn't work I'm letting the shop replace it with one I can work with.
Try the "bolt method." It should work. ruclips.net/video/P9oIUmdI5JU/видео.html
@@rg807 Definitely. Used it (and the referenced Sheldon Brown article) to eventually pry out a seized square taper fixed face from a skip rescue Raleigh - had already tried most of the usual tricks, wasn't going to spend on a decent quality C-spanner or similar, this worked a blinder in the end. Very satisfying, threads in good knick.
The bolt method seems to be ingenious but won't work with cartridge bbs. A Shimano /Phil tool could be stabilized with a bolt screwed into the spindle backed with a washer. I've seen bbs removed using the tool clamped into a vice and the frame used as the lever. Just be careful to turn the right direction as this approach may tax spacial skills.
@@davidburgess741 You're correct re cartridge bb. But for the rest, the bolt method is easiest. The presenter left out that the primary reason for seizure is metal incompatibility and a lack of anti seize grease.
@@davidburgess741 Yep, it's purely for BBs with fixing plates separate/accessible from both sides.
4:40 you always have such an extended tube at home dude. Just drop the bike from the repair stand (which you should do anyway to avoid damanging the repair stand) and use the seat tube to get more leverage.
But what if the seat tube is full carbon?
Too bad if the seatpost is stuck too! Or the quill stemm. Or the cranks. In some cases all of the above.
@@tobiasbouma4071 in that case use common sense and dont use the full carbo n seat post. Also, if you have money for a full carbon seat post you also should have money to pay for the ParkTool extender tube shown in the video.
@@luukrutten1295 in that case throw the bike to the recycle bin. :) just kidding :) check it with a professional bike repair shop, they will be able to sort all of the above for you for a fraction of the cost in tools
I stood on the wrench and it's not bugging 😔
Really should have Hambini join you for this video!
You omitted the most important bit, namely how the bottom bracket is threaded - British or Italian, Swiss or French threads. If you don't know the correct "undo" direction you're sure to fuck up your frame, or, ruin the threads by installing a replacement with a different thread pitch and direction... Tut tut tut ...
Gd bs bottom bracket. Been trying to remove one for days
Mine is absolutely planted.....
Great video but can I ask where has Manon gone
5:57 you are giving a wrong example dude. You are at risk of falling, damaging your bike stand and consequently damanging your pride and joy. The correct way to do it is to put the bike on the ground preferrably upside down to avoid damaging the wheels. Otherwise you can do it by using your feet to stand on the tool and use your weight to exact force on the tool.
Step 1) watch hambini
Step 2) profit
You simply HAVE to affix the tool to the BB cup. This guy was derelict in not doing this. If you don't, it will slip, you'll mangle your hand(s), damage the tool and/or BB cup and/or the frame. ESPECIALLY when using a cheater bar! This is why typical shop-quality fixed cup tools have big handles and tighten securely to the BB shell. The tool this guy used should be held in place with a Stein Tool, or any combination of washers, tubing and the crank bolt. You MUST securely affix to tool to the cup!
Also, do NOT go wild torquing a BB cup with the bike held in the repair stand alone. This risks destroying the frame - even if properly clamped by the seat post. Get a friend to hold the main triangle as you apply force. You can even loosen up the repair stand's rotational adjustment so you are NOT applying rotational force to the seat tube/cluster area.
Well, got a siezed Campy Record BB in a Ritchey Ti frame with carbon stays. So no blow torch for me!
But a hair dryer and spray freeze may do the trick. We'll see.
Sat for a week with penetrating oil.
Man, not fun trying to revive this beautiful Breakaway for a trip in a month.
hi there~, nice upload. keep it up. hope our channel can grow together.
Just send it to Hambini
Naa, what about a stuck pressed BB. This video is totally incomplete.
3:38 no way ;)
When in doubt, WD40 it! 💪
6 minutes in, tells you to use WD40 equivalent. Very long explanation to get there.
Kroi-oil.
Update: How to remove your bottom bracket: step 1: call your mechanic. step 2: take your bike to your mechanic.
Nah, its a easy job to do...
Neil Buckley nah, can't be bothered to buy the necessary tools and mess
@@costasmandylor1565 3 tools and minimal mess. And the satifaction of a job well done
Neil Buckley ok dude, I'm not going to have pissing contest about it. Do what you want.
@@neilbuckley5796 Depends on just how badly stuck it is (and what, if any, damage has been done to the splines on the stuck part).
Never seen a more appropriate presenter for "suffering" scene. He deserve the Oscar. Unfortunately he has always a suffering face. ... :(
Boring. Can you guys bring Jon back? #GCNtech
Really GCN???....with all due respect stay away from this type of smash and grab clip...bike shops have it tough enough...leave some meat on the bone for them..
GCN... think you were better in the Matt days and not so commercial ..
A loyal viewer..
Thanks for nothing. You should change the title to "how to remove a perfectly fine bb with a spanner"
I'll never get those six minutes back.