Bottom Bracket Standards Explained | Road Bike Maintenance
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- Step into the bottom bracket standard maze with Simon Richardson. Don't worry, he knows his way around.
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BB30? PF30? Octalink? Hollowtech? The world of bottom bracket standards is about as complicated as it gets in cycling. Simon explains all in this video.
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How to change a threaded bottom bracket ▶︎ gcn.eu/1VfBdFW
How to resolve bottom bracket creaks ▶︎ gcn.eu/1TuyjIR
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Leave us a comment below!
I didn't enjoy this video, but I did need it. Thanks for the tough love, GCN.
Zach Bonte ثي،6ص
Those words I was looking for to describe my feelings
These videos are extremely helpful. I've been a bicycle mechanic at multiple shops, but there is always something new to learn. Thank you for the details, and the presentations in these videos makes the learning process much easier. I'd recommend these videos to anyone (novice or seasoned rider/mechanic)
We as cyclists are good at suffering and I've done mine for the day. I watched that the whole way through.
I love my old school square taper bottom brackets. They are very simple and easy to work on, and there is a sea of aftermarket cranks to choose from. No creaks either.
Wow. Simon, you are a BB King. No wonder you've got the blues... :(
That's a pearler! What a comment! Haha love it.
Comment of the week
Comment of the year right there ^^^^^^^^
KKKKKKKK
I saw what you did there. Brilliant.
had to re-watch this twice to get the info I needed! Simon deserves a promotion for explaining this, it must have been worse than watching paint dry then followed by grass growing.
GCN is the best cycling resource around. Messed about for ages trying to figure out how to repair my bottom bracket. Watched the first 30 seconds of this and new exactly what to do.
Absolutely love your sense of humor. Thanks for making a topic bearable to watch!
All you actually need to know: Hollowtech or similar external threaded bearings (Mega Exo etc) are awesome. Anything involving bearings pressed directly into the frame is annoying, fiddly, stupid, hard to work on, creaking, unreliable, potentially frame-destroying crap that should be avoided.
I agree, still have to deal with press-fit headsets though, argh!
I literally JUST bought a crankset for a bike I acquired on CL and don't know the first thing about bottom brackets. Thanks for such a cogent and thoughtful presentation. You ROCK.
well done Simon! I can't believe you managed to keep that to under 8 mins and explain it so well. Top class.
I just have a $60 Huffy cruiser that I ride once every other year, so I think I am in over my head watching this video...
I think the manufactures are confused about the definition of the word "standard".
agreed.. standard should mean: once one is published, if you want to be standard as well then you need to follow what's already out!
Lmao, I think alot are confused with that! They put alot of labels and they don't even apply!
Some new person or company comes up with something new and starts to change the whole industry by trying to get their new stuff labeled standard to change the whole industry , if it's better may be debatable in a small percentage of the time .
More videos like these! I thought it was awesome how you talked about the chronological order of each, sizes and methods of attachment and compatibility. Great video, Si!
the primary advantage of the square taper spindle cartridge bottom brackets is you could select a spindle length that would allow you to position the crank in any line that you would want relative to the cassette. doesnt appear that any of the other systems would allow for repositioning of the crank.
I give up! I'm buying a motorcycle.
It is cheaper lol.
hahahahahahah nice one!
Lol
thanks very much for this! bottom brackets have been something i haven't been able to keep track of, so this was super informative and helpful!!
But what about BB-8?
You can leave, now!
+mrsherlocked will be hard to fit in your frame ;D
Don't worry, Si, this video was quite handy. I'll watch it before I go to sleep.
Hi Si, thanks for informational videos. I changed my BB and the bike is riding like new. you have a calmness but confidence that helped guide my way. No more creaks!
You've got to be one of the best talkers on RUclips, always a pleasure to listen to you explain things.
This one of your best videos ! Great job deciphering all this mess.
I've got a titanium frame with PF30, without the bearing press tool.
I just pushed the cups in by hand as far and as straight as I could, laid the bike on its side, and placed a flat piece of wood over the cup then knocked it in with a rubber mallet.
Worked like a charm.
Thanks for this video. Very informative. Once I was confused, but I have more clarity on the different types of BBs available. Maybe you can do one video on headsets too. Threaded, non-threaded, integrated, semi-integrated, press-in cups....etc. Really got me head spinning when I was building my dream bike from sourcing all my parts online a while ago.
my fave GBN personality; funny as hell. rock on Simon!
Salute to you sir. You managed to sum up +20 yrs of tech progress (or regress) in under 8 minutes. My take is this is a classic case of manufacturers just going out there to create their own systems and calling it new tech without doing us mere mortals any favours about ease of maintenance, compatibility, functionality etc so they can sell more bikes and components.With BB design, it may benefit a 'if it ain't broken, don't fix it' type approach.
No one ever improved on the conventional threaded bottom bracket. All these pressed bearings are just cost savings passed on with the tagline of "increased stiffness". If they only put them on exotic bikes I might believe them....but does anyone really think an aluminium hybrid bikes needs a 10% stiffer BB? Threaded cups are expensive as they are a component unique to cycling, they require increased labour at the OEM factories to cut the threads. Press fit bearings are just bought from a catalogue, its a task every engineer is familiar with.....going on the skf catalogue and choosing a bearing. They even give you the CAD model.
BB30 is nothing more than a roller bearing with an inner diameter of 30mm and an outer of 42mm. You can get a bag of 50 of those bearing for under £5 from a bearing specialist, some don't even bother counting they just sell by the Kg.
But don't fool yourselves...its not like they use high quality Japanese bearings anyway!
No kidding. Not only is it awkward to put on there's little indication if that standard will continue to be used. Bsa forever.
Axles are a bigger headache now that QR isn't the only option for road bicyclists now and companies are figuring out what to steal from mountain bikers since disc brakes are popular.
+seanek9 Threaded bottom had their issues. First off, Italian threading needs to go the way of French and Swiss threads into obsolescence. I noted decades ago that bottom brackets were too narrow and too thin. Funny thing is that external bearing bottom brackets have addressed both concerns without requiring any changes. Right now your best bet is a British threaded 68mm bottom bracket with external cups.
+Bill Oooo'Reilly mainly because the stiffness comes from the frame not bearings and crank has very little to do with it too. So BB type doesn't matter, just depends on what standard the manufacturer uses. So basically, and Si did say this, different bottom brackets are only there so the manufacturer can say they've done something new. Doesn't matter which one you have they all work the same and there's a converter for everything now. Rotor makes two bottom brackets that will fit any frame and any crank so just get those two, any bike you want and any crank you want. Also, everyone will say companies scam you and it seems like they do, but it's not just bike companies. For example I work in a restaurant and food for 100 people costs under £250. Can you do that shopping in your local shop? So restaurants are a scam too? And you eat at them I assume.
Bmx bikes use press fit bb, they must be better for certain aspects otherwise they wouldnt be used to this day even on bikes that cost over £500-£600 and above
@@Hazeder422 not really.
Thanks GCN! You just saved me a lot of time and my headache switched from BB-standards to consider wether to stick with my BB30 power meter or "upgrade" to a new more compatible one... :)
Sure glad I changed out the cranks on my Atala back in '74. A lot fewer choices to worry about.
... making a Look 595 an outstanding frame choice, given its threaded bb and awesome features
Excellent video, dude! Thanks a lot here from Brazil.
This was educational for those of us kind of new to road biking, thanks!
this is actually really good and informative. thanks GCN!
One nice addition to this video would be to explain changing a press fit to threaded. There are a few companies who make those.
one nice addition would be to advice any buyers to stay away from press fit altogether and make sure whatever bike you buy is threaded... I seriously used that as a disqualifying mark when I was buying my last road bike, any non-threaded BB frames where automatically scratch from my list.... Maybe it makes sense for pro racers that do not have to give maintenence to their own bikes and possibly get a new frame every year... but for a bike enthusiast or even for an amateur racer who has to suffer through long rides with creaky BB I think press fit makes very little sense.
Need help, bought a used pinarello fp quattro w/o a bottom bracket. What type do i need to find?thanks
Legend! Thanks Simon! Saving this video for when I do my bike build. Golden rules!
Good job GCN, this is the first time I fell asleep watching one your videos.
I have FELT F5 with BB30, after 5 years I replaced the bearings for $25 last year, very happy with. I think I will stick with BB30 on my next project Chinese Carbon bike
I genuinely needed this! Can always rely on GCN for help :D
Yes :) Finally BB hell has been explained. Cheers mate.
RT1, my own standard: one side threaded the other one pressed but the pressing surface outer ring is not completely round so you need a special bearing press and the crank is 20.1mm on one sied and 20.2 on the other side (the whole thing is set up that your frame cracks when you get it wrong)
This was very helpful. However I disagree that bottom brackets shouldn't be considered when purchasing a bike.
I've reached the point on my Cannondale with BB30, where I should replace some drive train components. Mind you it's part due to bad conditions, an ungodly number of kilometres, and the ignorance that comes with your first bike.
I'm finding it incredibly difficult to find BB30 cranks. SRAM being the main one I can find, however they are twice the price of Shimano.
+Justin Verigin I would recommend a cannondale crank as they are superb, but they are also pricey. I agree, BB30 is a serious pain. If you want to use a shimano crank on a BB30 system, you can always buy some adapter cups (about 30 bucks from Praxis or Wheels Manufacturing), but yes, it is not a great solution.
So here's a conundrum. I have a bb30a which is 73mm wide so normal bb30 cranks won't fit but if i get a threaded converter for the frame can I fit the longer length crank axles? Obviously you'd have to factor in that the frame is wider and the BB sticks out further, so would it still be too wide? Basically cannondale say only fsa, rotor and cannondale cranks fit their bb30a frames and other bike shops say otherwise
Some of my frames are 35 years old and I have no problem servicing them. But I can't imagine a pressfit BB frame still performing without creaks after 10 years. I find it depressing that modern frames are disposable.
So what I want to know is which bottoms bracket is the best? I know it’s all subjective, but which one performs the best? Which one has had more issues? Which manufacture should I be avoiding because of their BB?
I see coming in a near future the new "standard wars" about wheel axles. With disc brakes startig to enter road market, 12-15 PT, some with traditional axles, some frames include adapters, 9mm standard axle in the rear 12mm front... and that will affect your choice of wheels. Would be good to see a video about pros and cons, and also your idea/brands idea about what the standard will be.
About BB, as it was determined by frame manufacturer, now is another thing to look at when you choose your frame or bike. I am afraid of making the wrong choice and not being able to find BB or chairings for my axle in the mid future. Until now, Shimano is the best bet in terms of longevity in catalog, and actually much prefer threaded. Unfortunatelly, in mid-high end bikes each time is more and more difficult (even impossible) to get threaded BB. So, this video is ok, but I think is worth another one just about which one to choose.
Also I love the look of internal cables, but I hate them deeply. But none mid-high frame has external cabling any more.
I have a press fit 30 and I’m changing it to a BSA for my bafang BBSHD motor
What an informative video, this is good information to know.
I didn't know there was that many types of BB :P , i'm still using square taper on my MTB and hollowtech on the road bike , the square taper BB had to be replaced for a new one after 14 years service and many thousands of miles , compared to hollowtech they are really heavy but bomb proof , I recon hollowtech will still be here 20 years from now just because like square taper it works and works well
Here's my problem: My son is riding mountains with a Cannondale BB30 and SI cranks 53/39. I am trying to convert him to 50/34. I remove left/right arms using self extracting 10mm allen. The spindle remaining is 104mm octalink looking thing. I am searching for a new crank. Many supposedly compatible BB30 cranks have a hollowtech spindle that seems permanently attached to the drive side. Will it work? Is it the right length? Other choices seem to include arms, but the chainrings are missing, and the separate spider rings are very expensive. Cannondale has got me very confused.
As I now own three bikes with press fit bottom brackets, I decided to bite the bullet and get a bearing press. Yes, it cost a good amount of cash, but I suspect it will pay for itself in the long run as I replace bearings in the various bikes.
Big thanks for this video. Now when bottom brackets come up in conversation I can just pull this video up and show my friends why I hate bottom brackets so much
I'll stick with my Hollowtech for now as it's cheap and easy to service and it certainly doesn't creak.
Just went from square taper to Hollowtech II BB and the difference is night and day imo. I Will never go back to a st bb ever again.
My Cannondale CAADX 105 SE (mileage 1200km or 600miles) makes all kind of noises, from creaking to clonking. Amazing what sounds a cyclocross, that has just been ridden onroad, can produce. My first and last Cannondale.
I feel for you. Have you heard of Hambini bbs? Hes on RUclips.
@@johndef5075 Thanks mate. I got rid of the CAAD already tho, it wasn't worth it
A good reason to stick to one brand if you own and build many bikes, preferably Campagnolo, SRAM, or that fishing tackle company, what's their name again? I'm a Campagnolo type of guy and had only to worry about, square, PT, or UT cups, until I picked an FSA Gossamer GXP crankset, and now I really don't know what BB to order!
Damn the manufacturers for all these different standards.
my favourite is square taper cup and cone - riding on proper 1/4" bearings will always be better than most of the toys shown here
completely head melting! as much as I don't want to, I think I have to watch this again to really get my bearings on this! 😂
"ISIS, which didn't sound quite so bad at the time". Now that is a funny, Monty-Python esque, line. :)
You might wanna Google ISIS history because they've been around for decades.
I have a press fit OSBB bottom bracket on my 2009 Specialized Roubaix. Will any new crankset fit this? How do I decide what new crankset is compatible?
thank you guys! i'm one step closer to understanding this :-)
@Global Cycling Network you cant remove an octalink crank with just an 8mm you have to use a crank remover. Also there are different thread types: englisch, ita and french. And you didnt mention lose bearing BBs.
Sticking with my english threaded 9000 BB for a long time.
Mine is sounding rough, Evans website says it is a "Shimano SM-BB71 Pressfit BB93" and Norco "Shimano SM-BB71 Pressfit BB86 " as well as "PF86/86.5".
Do I look for a BB71, BB93, BB86, BB86.5 or a PF41 89.5/92mm 24mm?
1:18 Haha haha funniest thing I've heard all week!
The great thing about 'standards' is that there are so many to choose from.
any advice on loose spokes during ride, some unwind and start to rattle but they were tight before the ride
BSA bottom brackets 4ever. I hate creaks.
Congrats Simon! you managed to say "bottom" more times than in any other GCN video.
Thx Si. Yet another reason I ride only lugged steel with English BB.
Could you guys make a video on how to prevent cramps when riding?
hey man, great vid. just wondering if you could clarify... the bike im buying has a sealed cartridge bottom bracket... i just want to know... is it gonna end up creeking like my walmart bike did?? i cant find the specs on the walmart bike.. this is driving me crazy
Every minute of your life is one you will not get back. Good info, although you didn't go far enough back for me to find out what I needed. I'm restoring a 60s Monark Speed Racer. Weird stuff down there.
I'm planning to upgrade my 2015 CAAD8 with Claris Groupset, I"m eyeing on new Tiagra 4700..
As of now I'm having a minor problem regarding my BB, it's now creaking; well I think that's normal as I already rode it for 9000KM .. my frame (CAAD8) has FSA Vero cranks there and BB30...
Do Tiagra 4700 BB will fit to my Frame? TIA
Hello, my bike has a shimano bc1 37" x 24" road bottom bracket. What
shimano COMPACTcrank set should I buy that is compatible to this bottom
bracket? Thank you in advance.
So, is it recommended to change out your BB when replacing your crankset?
Not necessarily, they're two separate parts. They work together, but still independent.
How many "standards" does it take until there is no standard?
All of them? 0.o
don't forget FSA megaevo bottom brackets. their threaded version for bb386 or for 386evo cranks. IMO the best option. 30mm diameter threaded bb, the best.
I have on old peugeot ps10 gold frame, with a strong light 35x1 bottom bracket. Is this swiss threading ? Which direction should I turn to remove it and what modern BB can I replace it with ? thx for the video
Really clear - thanks
Works the way it is supposed to. Just Good
you should do a vid on the shimano 5800 ,6800 or 9000 front mechs as they are a pain to set up
Hello all. I have a bike with a M48 Bottom Bracket. I want to upgrade my drive train to shimano xt. The xt BB is obviously smaller so I’m wondering if they make some type of thread in step down or if another option is available?
can you fit a crank that is fitted on a thread type bb to a pressft one's? tnx gcn
Bought a my 26" mountian bike 2 years ago and just now is the bottom bracket creaking like heck.
Thought I'd be simple to replace it but seeing how many 'standards' there are it seems more complicated now.
Great video, Si! One question: what about asymmetric BBs? Are these pretty much always 68mm or are there different sizes?
I'll keep it simple... I'll stick with the old square one... it works.
That works, I just changed my type of bottom bracket and I’m really happy with the external type
Love this video. Helps me sleep
The T47 is basically a threaded PF30. The good folks at Enduro Bearing shipped mine with adapters to fit SRAM GXP (24mm/22mm) so not just for 30mm spindle. Now if only my SRAM Etap would get here...
BB30 was used by manufacturers for 1 main reason - Cost. According to an article i read, it saves them 5 dollars per frame during manufacturing.
I'm not sure that's entirely fair to the manufacturers. There are some solid reasons for it, it's just the execution from some manufacturers lets it down from time to time.
+Simon Richardson there may be some reason. But the main reason is ease in manufacturing which translates to savings. Ill try to dig that article about how much the manufacturers save by not having to have threads on the BB, but if im not wrong its 5 dollars per bike.
I do believe it allows greater flexibility (lazy design) in frame design in that area as well, though I still prefer threaded BB for the reasons in this video.
learned that from an article did ya?
Good explanation!!
Thanks 😊
4 weeks earlier and this video could have saved me a lot of research :D good vid though!
Thank youuuu!! Love this video.
hi i have one old bike with DA9000 with shimano hollowtech hub on regular specialized allez alumimnum frame
now i got a carbon trek bike with bb30 bottom bracket fixed to the frame and FSA Energy cranks on it.
My question is can i just simply swap the cranks to one another without replacing sa Bottom brackets?
Si, any chance you could do a future follow up comparing the BB conversion choices? i.e. from BB30 to 24/22 etc. by the likes of Praxis, Wheels Mfg., Rotor etc? While they each essentially do the same job they have somewhat (slightly) different, but meaningful methods for installation. Thanks! Nick
Nicholas Hulme 1000x yes
I have a set of FSA (Full Speed Ahead) Omega cranks with MegaEXO bottom bracket from 2009. I can't find any reliable information on compatibility so far. I cracked the frame on my first road bike, not from abuse but simply by riding it (I have quickly grown to hate aluminum). So I figure that I could possibly upgrade the bottom bracket while I am stripping all of the parts off of the frame. I did see someone swap a MegaEXO bb with a Shimano Ultegra. I just don't know for certain what is compatible and if the FSA cranks have changed. I wish FSA provided more information, but perhaps someone else who is more knowledgeable can help me.
I am trying to get the threaded BB with square thingies (the first one you mentioned) out of my old Trek 1000 (2004 or thereabout). However, it seems to be completely stuck. I have the right tool and have been trying to get the non-drive side moving counter clockwise pretty hard. But it won't move. Any tricks to get it moving?
My plan is to replace the original (Shimano Sora and Bontrager) parts with second hand Ultegra. I have bought a hollowtech Ultegra crank. Can I be sure that any threaded hollowtech Shimano crank will fit both the crank and the frame?
OK are sealed units any good durable as is it cheaper to just replace the bearings on my old original bb axel
In the new tech evolution of improved bikes , newer is not always better. The different sizes of BB axles , redesigned to better than the competitors' has made the once "standard size" of bike parts into a screwed up world of marketing hype. The video does't claim one is better than the other. It might have been useful to not that as the axle diameter increaded to be stiffer that the ball bearing size also became smaller and hence less capable of carrying the working load and requiring more service.