I'm a mechanic and normally avoid (like the plague) workshop videos which don't come from Manufacturers or people like Park Tool. This is is one of the best videos I have ever seen . It is refreshing to see a real engineering approach to things. Thank you
Being an engineering student with a hideously creaking BB30 this has been the only video to fully explain why exactly it happens (and a marvelous solution for it) , not just the usual assumptions of garage mechanics. Thank you!
Two years ago I bought a used Cannondale Super Six (the old model made in USA) with an BSA interface glued in (original Cannondale) with a Campy group set - only now I am getting aware how lucky I was After reading the magazines (Tour- I am a German speaker) I thought it was a sinn to install campy crank instead of the light Cannondale ones - now I see that this has saved me from many issues
As a former engineering student and did robotics in high school, this video is absolutely amazing. Information was well explained, and so was the solutions with all its positives and negatives. It blows my mind you even went ahead and measure the disparity, designed your own BB, and then machined it. To us mere mortal/garage "engineers", this is nothing short of amazing.
I can confidently say this is a mind blowing engineering information, broken down so well for a simple Joe like me to comprehend and damn, you made those BB30 manufactures seem lazy for not doing their job well enough! This is genius, 🙏❤️🕊
I can't believe what I've just seen here. So to summarise: you've made a dummy BB30 bottom bracket, constructed your own installation and removal tools, measured disparity from spec in microns with lazers, then built your own custom Shimano BB adapter. So far, so freaking amazing. Thanks for putting a skewer through the Praxis works adapter. You've saved me a bunch of money and aggravation. Getting back to some of your comments that I want to test with you. You suggest using loctite 641 around the outer race of the bearings but my experience (and that of other cyclists) is that the inner race/spindle interface is also a major area of problems and needs a lick of 641/609 as well. On my new Cannondale, the crank spindle is already exhibiting signs of fretting under the bearings and 641 has made a big difference in reducing that issue. Also - in terms of bearings: do you have any recommended manufacturers for the 6806? There are the obvious candidates such as SKF/Enduro. Do they produce bearing races with sufficient precision for BB30 installations?
Thanks for the feedback. In relation to your questions. 1. Bearing systems should be designed so one end is fixed and the other is floating. In bottom brackets, the fixed is the interference into the housing. If you fix the crank as well, you will run in to a problem when the crank expands through heat (perhaps a warm day), it will at best reduce bearing clearance and cause more friction. At worst it will spin the bearing around in the housing. 2. I don't recommend Enduro at all. I think they are overpriced. SKF/NTN/FAG/INA/Nachi/NSK are the ones I would recommend. All of those bearings are produced to ISO/JIS standards. Enduro are designed to ABEC which is essentially a design standard for skateboards. 3. With reference your cannondale spindle. This is a problem whenever you have a hardened steel surface against an aluminium one. It's also the reason why Shimano always line their BB's with nylon or delrin to prevent the fretting. Not much you can do about this one. Retaining compound won't work in the long term. 4. I would hardly say I was amazing! Hope that helps Hambini
Can you provide a link to where we can order a bearing you'd recommend? I see a lot of 61806 with these dimensions; 30mm 40mm 7mm, is that correct? And how do I order smalley snap rings for my BB30?
Most all of the bearing manufacturers he listed are readily available here in the US. You do not need to have a Japanese bearing shipped from the UK and spend that money, plenty of companies already import them. Google is your friend. If you live in or near any kind of city, I promise you that there is an industrial parts supplier near you that will carry these bearings, or can get them easily. They are not bicycle specific, they are industry standard.
In my experience most creaking is caused by wear to the crank on the non drive side. Even with brand new bearings you can get creak is your crank has even the smallest amount of wear. my advice is if/when the bearing needs replacing that you replace the crank at the same time. this will most likely eliminate any creak until the bearing next needs replacing
I am most amazed buy the differences between this video and your current (2020) ones. This one was quite good. Today's are much louder for unknown reasons.
As always, after hours of searching for how to do something not-so-standard on my bike, I end up on your channel. You truly have THE BEST advices and explanations on how things work and what to do with your bike. I am so sorry that there aren't more people who know about your channel, but I'll make sure to tell anyone who inquires to look for the answers here! And by the way, I was wondering what is that you do - and I didn't expect anything less than aerospace engineer, since you have so much knowledge. Thank you once again for your brilliant work!!!
Have been speaking to Hambini regarding fitting a Hambini BB. You can come unstuck if a part of the bike sits proud inside the bottom bracket. In my case it was a LOOK bike that has a retained bolt embedded in the epoxy for holding the cable guide underneath the bike. So you can't get the one piece BB over and reseated on the other side when installing. So please check your bottom bracket has free access to go right through. Hope this helps.
I totally nerded out on this video. I have no engineering experience, it's not normally my thing but I was fascinated by this tutorial. No rants in this one! Great stuff Hambini, you're a legend...
Now this is a really good presentation without the swearing and disparaging comments which have become an odious feature of your current crop of videos. You have lost the clarity and simplicity of this video with recent stuff. Explain the engineering flaws, show the solution and let the viewer form their opinions. They will more than likely agree with yours if you have explained matters clearly. You are smart enough to do away with the expletives and mature viewers will be more likely to watch to the end.
Hi. Im new to MT maintenance and have been in the hunt for a detailed video about bottom brackets, especially adapter shell removal and installation. My search is over. 😁The English standard adapter shell started to slide out of the frame and caused my pedals to hit the swing arm. Now thanks to this video I have a full understanding of whats going on😀👍I just need that plastic sleeve and other tools to push it all way out then back in. Thank you so much. Liked and subscribed💯👌👏
An excellent clear explanation from a well educated youngish engineer. It makes a change to listen to a real engineer as apposed to a salesman or management type. Thanks
Wow, that was thee most informative presentation ever, I have Scott Pro, with Di2 which has driven me bloody mad, changed to Shimano, better but not brill, bought a tool set from China for 30 squids, brilliant, fitted my new Shimano bb, better but still a wee creak, now going to try Locktite….failing that my beautiful Scott is going in the bin or canal...carbon floats? many thanks, incredibly useful....
Best explanation/analysis of BB30 I ever seen. And exactly on example of BMC TM01 I am struggling with! Thank you for your efforts! You are really passioned about mechanic and excellent engineer with proper hands. Respect.
Outstanding. My 18 year old son wants to study mech. engineering. I have been showing him your videos, as your wide knowledge of materials and their properties, your aptitudinal know-how, your industry-specific terminology, your ease of expression and overall presenting abilities are all fantastic. You make a very, very good teacher and exponent of the subject. You make a seemingly drab and tedious subject really interesting and your confidence even helps to glamorise the subject!! Thank you for these!
Wow - stumbled across this video by chance - really impressed by what I see in the couple of videos I have looked at so far. Thanks for so much information presented with such clarity that even I can start to understand the hitherto mysterious world of bottom brackets! I must have been lucky with my Cannondale Synapse which does not suffer from 'creaks'! I have book-marked your web-site for if/when I need to fix any issues. I also now have a better understanding why I was recommended to go with a threaded BB for my self-indulgent 70th birthday present to myself (custom Ti frame by Seven).
A huge thanks to you Hambini for posting this video. An absolute joy to watch and simple to understand unlike most of the youtube “cycle channels” that are looking to boost the following by substituting fashion following and attempts at humour for real info. You have a big thumbs up from me and I’m now a subscriber.
Thank you very much for this excellent presentation. The creaks are gone now, after first pressing the BB30 cups into the OSBB 61 x 46 mm(!) bracket (specialized venge carbon frame 2013) and using the Loctite 7471 to fix the cups in the carbon frame and, later, use the Loctite 641 to fix the BB30 bearings into the cups.
I bought a Planet-X carbon frame a few years ago, that had a BB30 bottom bracket. The Planet-X press-fit bearings and circlip fit well. I ran a vernier around the inside of the bb on the frame, the inside was good (ie round). I used a set square to try and ensure the bearings would line up laterally, they did. I fitted the press-fit bb, and the chainset (SRAM Red). So far in the last 6 years, no creaks. But I have only ridden about 2000 miles.
Good info. Seemed not to mention that bottom bracket creak can be from INNER bearing to crank axle as well as OUTER bearings to frame. Retention fluid to both a good idea
So why so many complaints of creaks on caad13 (and other al frames)? With a properly stabilized and jigged alloy frame it should be straight forward to machine an accurate bore straight through to proper interference fit tolerance?
Brilliant, I'm very impressed. Once my cannondale slate is out of warranty, the modification displayed in this video will be fitted. Thanks for the information.
Finally, someone making some profound statements about an industry that is going into the wrong direction whenever it can. Thanks for the insight. I'll keep your offer for the replacement in mind should I ever be facing a bike with this "standard".
I love it, fortunately I've got a good old threaded BB (Campag Record.) I just find that BB30 was a poorer solution to a problem that was already solved by the outboard Shimano/Campag threaded systems. Now people are having to 'bodge' (And yours is one amazing A+ bodge:) ) a way to adapt frames back to the more reliable system. Unfortunately these adaptors make the whole system heavier than a standard threaded set-up...
@RollinRat No kidding the world is full of idiots...and that's why I love my mid eighties Benotto, chromoly and campagnolo group set...still in original shape.
@RollinRat Glad to hear that. I just hate all the new over engineered pricey garbage that has been coming out over the years. Carbon fiber is garbage in my opinion.
@RollinRat press or interference fit is everywhere in engineering applications, frames shouldn't be an exception. Hambini has even made his press fit rather than threaded.
Having watched your tech talk on the GCN show my first impressions were, wow this guy talks sense and I quickly realised that you are able to transfer your engineering knowledge and scrutiny into pure cycling science which, as a cyclist I can relate to. I too have an engineering background and love to set my own bikes up from scratch which can be as equally satisfying as riding them. This video gave an excellent insight into the bottom bracket design and your re-designed fitting looked like the dogs bllockos..... Personally I wish you all the best mate and hope your channel opens a few more doors for you in the not too distant future. (Hopefully the doors will be made from titanium with ceramic angular contact bearings for ease of access lol) but all the best. "I'm a cyclist and I live in the Pennines"
Firstly, loving the channel...... especially your "say it how it is" style.... Just one thing though..... Loctite activator doesn't make bond stronger...... it improves the curing on inactive surfaces, such as Anodized Ally etc.... Activator actually reduces the bond strength considerably below the locking compounds "Potential" strength..... BUT when bonding difficult surfaces, it's better to have a reduced strength bond that works, rather than a bond that fails to take.... I know it a small point, but I think it's work making, for clarity.
Very good Hambini. From engineer (mechanical) to engineer and cyclist (Litespeed Solano) to cyclist, you hopefully have applied for your patent by now. This idea is the bomb!
Mr Hambini, I have a question regarding the one-piece bb30 to shimano 24mm adapter sleeve you made.. I was thinking .. after pressing it in from one side all the way thru.. the only thing keeping the one-piece sleeve in place is friction. Is that enough to keep it place. Doesn't that set up needs a lock ring of some sort for added security to keep that from slightly sliding back out where it came in? The material you used for the demo is aluminum/metal and the interference friction( is that correct?) is high because of the nature of the material.. But what if the frame material is carbon.. and have gone thru a number of bearings as such the 42mm bb shell have slightly been enlarged due to the process of press in and out. I hope you can comment and highly appreciate your suggestion. Thank you!
Impressive. Thanks for sharing. I came here trying to figure out what the BSA bottom bracket standard was, and ended up learning a whole lot. Thanks again.
Wow. I love your presentation and how informative it was. You addressed an issue and not only explained why it was problematic but created a solution. I have a connondale quick 6 and have been experiencing a clicking or popping when pedaling and considered the bb or the crankset. I was looking for a solution and came across your video. I’m intrigued by your adapter and would love one for my bike but not sure if I could fabricate anything as remotely as impressive or effective as yours. Nice work
Hambini, regarding your BB30 adapter, if the holes in the frame are not perfectly round (like your blank) will your adapter not slip from side to side? At least with the Praxis there is a lip and and thread to hold the two cups together. What will hold your adapter in place if friction is not enough?
Very helpful video. After watching I'm confident that threaded external bb cups are the best for average joe cyclist not racing in Le Tour. subscribed -
Apparently, Team Sky still insists on threaded bbs, and as far as I can see, Pinarello still uses them on all their bikes. If you can win the TDF today with threaded bbs...yeah, press fit bbs are 100% bs.
I think that will change when the UCI drop the weight limit. When they do that, the weight saving from a pressfit BB will force Pinarello to look in that direction
Hambini BTW excellent video and keep up with making more, but I disagree with the comment. BB is a heart of the whole drive system and in my engineering opinion weight savings should never compromise BB area. You can shave the 100g or so elsewhere on the bike. Happy owner of Pino Dogma with threaded BB smiling hearing horror stories about press-fit.
Hambini, great video and excellent potential solution. Sorry if I've missed it, but roughly how much of each Loctite solution should I be using to fix the outer race into the shell? It's a carbon fibre frame. Thanks in advance! Freddie
I use Hollowtech Bottom Brackets for my road bike and no problems at all except it was like shite to install it by the bike tech who managed to get the job done.
Thanks for the BB 30 video. Your explanation has convinced me to avoid BB 30. Any alleged stiffness or lightness advantage is negligible compared to the problems. Different in the world of bicycle machine design is not always better.
This is such a good video & explenation of my imense iritations from my creeking BB30. I have a Norwegian Nakamura, with press fit BB30´s which have plastic cups in which the bearings are pressed into. The hard thing to know then of course, is if the creeking comes from the friction between the Carbon frame and the cups, or from the bearing and the plastic cups, or from them both. I will ask my mechanic if he´ve used the additional locktight primer you showed. Because he has tried to fix this twize with no luck. I can´t believe that the road biking industry haven´t stopped with BB30 and moved on to a better solution. It seems to me that a 90,5mm standard where they machine the titanium bearing housing and have ways to incorporate that titanium housing into the barbon frame, would be the best of both worlds? Or is just the 68mm threaded BSA the best choice? Thanks anyways, so glad to see someone who has had the same problem, yet also the knowledge to do something about it and share. Thanks!!
cannondale BB30 on aluminium caad8 caused me no end of problems creaking like hell evans just relubed it and gave me it back within a ride creaking again. ended up having a threaded bracket fitted. costly mistake buying a cannondale You are an aerospace engineer wow!
I also wonder why this system would not develop its own creak. Wheels MFG makes a threaded system that keeps the bearings in the original location but the thin flanges on the out side lock the part into the pressfit location similar to the praxis system but with no o- ring in it .
@@rcg9573 because it can, it doesn't matter how much shite about interference fits he spouts the reality is, if it can move it will move. The guy is obviously a good engineer but he is no mechanic, watching him work is like watching a puppy try to fuck a beach ball. I learned long ago that engineers generally understand theory whereas mechanics understand reality.
Couple of questions: first one, how do you remove those clips once inserted into the bottom bracket @ 5:49 secondly you claim a tolerance @13:13 for the bottom bracket hole to be 41.97 to 41.98 mm "any bigger than this then the bearing will fall through" At this point i turned the video off, however if you can recommend a machine shop to drill holes to within those tolerances 41.97mm to 41.98mm please let me know i'm sure NASA would be interested too.
Hi, To answer your questions. 1. You can use a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the snap rings. They are extremely easy to remove. If you look at my other video "BB30 Service" you can see how easy it is. 2. When I used to work at the NASA Dryden flight research centre (now called Neil Armstrong Centre), we used to drill the holes and ream them, that can give you a 10um fit. Alternatively with a boring machine you should get 12 microns fairly comfortably. In carbon frames, you need a 30um interference to safely the keep the bearings retained. Any slacker and there is a risk the bearing will walk at excessive torque loads. Hope that helps Hambini
In reply to your answer: Im not getting into an argument here, circlips were invented for a reason, to be able to easlily remove them with circlip pliers or other tools and not a flat head screw driver that will probably damage your bottom bracket. A vernier caliper is not recommended for measuring inside diameters accurately to 0.01 of a mm and you should know that if you worked for NASA. Verniers have two flat edges therefore if those two flat edges came into contact with an internal diameter(Round) you will be able to read what it says but in reality the actual reading (diameter) will be greater (not rocket science) now if your talking microns then your miles away, think about it!
I agree entirely. use a bore micrometer for accurate readings. However, for showing the vast majority of youtube viewers, they are unable to read a micrometer but can read a digital vernier. The Snap rings which are made by Smalley are designed to be removed with a flat head screwdriver. Look them up.
What is your opinion on the older Kogel BSA30/386-R (24895) which is a BB30 to BB386 adaptor that uses a solid sleeve and threaded BSA bearing holders? Ronald Kuba used one on a Specialized Tarmac to "fix" the creaking issue and install SRAM "BB30" long spindle cranks. I wonder what your take is on these and if you had any other solution or better option to have a very well aligned sleeve on a BB30 Specialized BB to mount long spindle "BB30" SRAM Red cranks.
me, expecting to fix my click by watching this video: *clicks video thumbnail* you: "nothing really worked well so I built my own shell, out of titanium" ....thank you hambini
Yes, I got a kick out of that bit as well :) I ride a 20 year old Litespeed Ultimate and the machining on that frame is spot on so obviously I've got a thing for titanium ;)
I have a Cannondale Slice from c 2018 ((black/green/white colour) with the original press fit bb30 fitted - I'm interested in replacing the BB but noticed your website is out of stock - any plans to make any more at any stage?
Hi have a S-work venge 2015 with ceramic speed bearings. I have the dreaded creaking. I usually epoxy them in but after a season they start to creak again. Does you replacement part fixes the issue, if not what's my best options? Thanks
2013 F29er, Lefty, carbon here. I have a BB30. However there are no cups, spacers or snap rings. All I have are 2 bearings which are pressed directly into the frame's BB shell. I have changed them recently after 11 years of use. Have never had a creak or any problems. I changed them just because they were originals and had a lot of use. No problems. Yes, I know, if it isn't broke, don't fix it. I put white lithium grease around the bearings before I pressed them in. Have been riding all year in mud, dust and general wetness. No problems whatsoever. Am I just lucky?
I’m a mechanical engineer and that means nothing in this context. However, I’ve two Time frames with BB30 and over many years or use have never a creak. It’s all about manufacturing; Time makes incredible bikes. The rest use at your own will.
Hi, can you show the proper way to remove BB30 bearings...? Reason I ask is I went to a mechanic who is good and who I trust to have my BB looked at because I thought it was creaking (turned out to be something else), and he banged out the bearings from the opposite side with a rubber mallet and a rod, and I was thinking that can't be right what he's doing. Seems it could damage the bearings as well. Thanks!
What about the spindle walking within the bearings? I'm not an engineer, but I am a mechanic who has dealt with hundreds of creaky 30mm spindle BB's. From what I've seen, most creaks are from the spindle to bearing interface and not the bearing to frame, or cup to frame interface. I never see any witness marks from movement within the frame, but plenty of wear marks on the spindle from movement within the bearings.
@@Hambini When I say "walking" I'm referring to the the spindle moving side to side within the bearings. Obviously, the spindle has to slide into the bearings to be installed. From what I've seen, the worst offenders are the BB's that use a wavy washer. Even the the correct amount of spacers added, and the wavy washer compressed 2/3 of the way as per what I've seen specified, you can still physically push the cranks assembly sideways and move the spindle a slight amount within the bearings. Over time, an aluminum spindle on a steel bearing will creak once it gets dirty between the bearing to spindle interface. Look at any anodized 30mm spindle that's been used for at least 3000-5000 miles. the anodization will always be worn off where the spindle contacts the bearing from the ability to have micro movements within the bearing.
@@JoeyMesa This is happening to my spindle, as well; it moves within the inner race of the non-drive bearing. At first I thought it was a problem with the preloader (which I have replaced), but the creaking continues, so I inspected the spindle/bearing interface and found movement. In your workshop, what do you do to fix this?
You certainly know your stuff. Just a quick question, I have a cannondale caad 12 and suffer with the dreaded creak. I have you used numerous manufacturing alternatives but to no avail. Contemplating using Loctite, you mentioned the activator , is it worthwhile using the product with aluminium? cheers chris
An excelent explanation. I have a question. I would like to buy an aluminium road bike. I like two bikes: the first is a Cannondale caad13, with BB30, and the second is a BMC Teamachine alr two, with BSA. Wich of these bikes do you choose? Thanks.
What's stopping the one-piece BB that you designed from sliding out of the bike frame (i.e. working its way out towards the drive side)? Thanks for the video!
Hi Thanks for sharing. Like your thinking re these miserable weight saving BB's. Did you use Delrin for your bearing carrier and what interference did you use for tube into the frame and likewise bearing into tube. I am guessing something like 0.03 - 0.04mm - yes/no? The other problem that occurs with stock bearings in the BB is that default bearing is single lip and really is more of a dust seal and not great with sealing out water. have you done any experimentation with alternate seals or even shields for said bearings? I have noted that the non-drive bearings always die before the drive side - I am guessing that the crank provides some form of shield. cheers
Hi Greg, the fit is a bit of a PITA. You have a compound stack up in some frames and that screws up the final bearing fit which in turn makes the final bearing fit either tight or loose. I was using M7 but recently changed the alloy I use for my bottom brackets and that has necessitated a deviation in the fit. As for the bearings, I have not experienced the non drive side failing before the drive side but it's interesting that you point it out. I also haven't experimented with the seals - I don't have the manufacturing capability for that. Thanks Hambini
I'm a mechanic and normally avoid (like the plague) workshop videos which don't come from Manufacturers or people like Park Tool. This is is one of the best videos I have ever seen . It is refreshing to see a real engineering approach to things. Thank you
the park tool super mario is actually pretty good
Being an engineering student with a hideously creaking BB30 this has been the only video to fully explain why exactly it happens (and a marvelous solution for it) , not just the usual assumptions of garage mechanics. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback
Two years ago I bought a used Cannondale Super Six (the old model made in USA) with an BSA interface glued in (original Cannondale) with a Campy group set - only now I am getting aware how lucky I was
After reading the magazines (Tour- I am a German speaker) I thought it was a sinn to install campy crank instead of the light Cannondale ones - now I see that this has saved me from many issues
As a former engineering student and did robotics in high school, this video is absolutely amazing. Information was well explained, and so was the solutions with all its positives and negatives. It blows my mind you even went ahead and measure the disparity, designed your own BB, and then machined it. To us mere mortal/garage "engineers", this is nothing short of amazing.
Thanks very much for the kind comments.
@@Hambini Ya, this was awesome! Thanks, dude! Wonderful info and love your work and solutions. Keep it up!
I can confidently say this is a mind blowing engineering information, broken down so well for a simple Joe like me to comprehend and damn, you made those BB30 manufactures seem lazy for not doing their job well enough!
This is genius,
🙏❤️🕊
I can't believe what I've just seen here. So to summarise: you've made a dummy BB30 bottom bracket, constructed your own installation and removal tools, measured disparity from spec in microns with lazers, then built your own custom Shimano BB adapter. So far, so freaking amazing.
Thanks for putting a skewer through the Praxis works adapter. You've saved me a bunch of money and aggravation.
Getting back to some of your comments that I want to test with you. You suggest using loctite 641 around the outer race of the bearings but my experience (and that of other cyclists) is that the inner race/spindle interface is also a major area of problems and needs a lick of 641/609 as well. On my new Cannondale, the crank spindle is already exhibiting signs of fretting under the bearings and 641 has made a big difference in reducing that issue.
Also - in terms of bearings: do you have any recommended manufacturers for the 6806? There are the obvious candidates such as SKF/Enduro. Do they produce bearing races with sufficient precision for BB30 installations?
Thanks for the feedback. In relation to your questions.
1. Bearing systems should be designed so one end is fixed and the other is floating. In bottom brackets, the fixed is the interference into the housing. If you fix the crank as well, you will run in to a problem when the crank expands through heat (perhaps a warm day), it will at best reduce bearing clearance and cause more friction. At worst it will spin the bearing around in the housing.
2. I don't recommend Enduro at all. I think they are overpriced. SKF/NTN/FAG/INA/Nachi/NSK are the ones I would recommend. All of those bearings are produced to ISO/JIS standards. Enduro are designed to ABEC which is essentially a design standard for skateboards.
3. With reference your cannondale spindle. This is a problem whenever you have a hardened steel surface against an aluminium one. It's also the reason why Shimano always line their BB's with nylon or delrin to prevent the fretting. Not much you can do about this one. Retaining compound won't work in the long term.
4. I would hardly say I was amazing!
Hope that helps
Hambini
Can you provide a link to where we can order a bearing you'd recommend? I see a lot of 61806 with these dimensions; 30mm 40mm 7mm, is that correct? And how do I order smalley snap rings for my BB30?
I see you have them available through your website, sweet! Any chance you'd ship to the US?
Most all of the bearing manufacturers he listed are readily available here in the US. You do not need to have a Japanese bearing shipped from the UK and spend that money, plenty of companies already import them. Google is your friend. If you live in or near any kind of city, I promise you that there is an industrial parts supplier near you that will carry these bearings, or can get them easily. They are not bicycle specific, they are industry standard.
In my experience most creaking is caused by wear to the crank on the non drive side. Even with brand new bearings you can get creak is your crank has even the smallest amount of wear. my advice is if/when the bearing needs replacing that you replace the crank at the same time. this will most likely eliminate any creak until the bearing next needs replacing
I am most amazed buy the differences between this video and your current (2020) ones. This one was quite good. Today's are much louder for unknown reasons.
As always, after hours of searching for how to do something not-so-standard on my bike, I end up on your channel. You truly have THE BEST advices and explanations on how things work and what to do with your bike. I am so sorry that there aren't more people who know about your channel, but I'll make sure to tell anyone who inquires to look for the answers here! And by the way, I was wondering what is that you do - and I didn't expect anything less than aerospace engineer, since you have so much knowledge. Thank you once again for your brilliant work!!!
This is the first video of yours that I have come across. I can say with absolute certainty that it will not be the last. Brilliant!
Have been speaking to Hambini regarding fitting a Hambini BB. You can come unstuck if a part of the bike sits proud inside the bottom bracket.
In my case it was a LOOK bike that has a retained bolt embedded in the epoxy for holding the cable guide underneath the bike. So you can't get the one piece BB over and reseated on the other side when installing.
So please check your bottom bracket has free access to go right through. Hope this helps.
I totally nerded out on this video. I have no engineering experience, it's not normally my thing but I was fascinated by this tutorial. No rants in this one! Great stuff Hambini, you're a legend...
Now this is a really good presentation without the swearing and disparaging comments which have become an odious feature of your current crop of videos. You have lost the clarity and simplicity of this video with recent stuff. Explain the engineering flaws, show the solution and let the viewer form their opinions. They will more than likely agree with yours if you have explained matters clearly. You are smart enough to do away with the expletives and mature viewers will be more likely to watch to the end.
What a slick presentation and clever solution to a clear issue. Nice one
Excellent explanation! Clear, comprehensive, and understandable. You are a true engineer!
+Eric Chan thank you!
is this the birth of the Hambini bottom bracket?
Hi. Im new to MT maintenance and have been in the hunt for a detailed video about bottom brackets, especially adapter shell removal and installation. My search is over. 😁The English standard adapter shell started to slide out of the frame and caused my pedals to hit the swing arm. Now thanks to this video I have a full understanding of whats going on😀👍I just need that plastic sleeve and other tools to push it all way out then back in. Thank you so much. Liked and subscribed💯👌👏
Thanks! You're a genius who explains things extremely well.
Glad to help!
An excellent clear explanation from a well educated youngish engineer. It makes a change to listen to a real engineer as apposed to a salesman or management type. Thanks
Wow, that was thee most informative presentation ever, I have Scott Pro, with Di2 which has driven me bloody mad, changed to Shimano, better but not brill, bought a tool set from China for 30 squids, brilliant, fitted my new Shimano bb, better but still a wee creak, now going to try Locktite….failing that my beautiful Scott is going in the bin or canal...carbon floats? many thanks, incredibly useful....
This is the explanation we needed, but not the one we deserve! thank you so much for this!
Best explanation/analysis of BB30 I ever seen. And exactly on example of BMC TM01 I am struggling with! Thank you for your efforts! You are really passioned about mechanic and excellent engineer with proper hands. Respect.
Outstanding. My 18 year old son wants to study mech. engineering. I have been showing him your videos, as your wide knowledge of materials and their properties, your aptitudinal know-how, your industry-specific terminology, your ease of expression and overall presenting abilities are all fantastic. You make a very, very good teacher and exponent of the subject. You make a seemingly drab and tedious subject really interesting and your confidence even helps to glamorise the subject!!
Thank you for these!
Thanks for the feedback! It's always appreciated.
Wow - stumbled across this video by chance - really impressed by what I see in the couple of videos I have looked at so far.
Thanks for so much information presented with such clarity that even I can start to understand the hitherto mysterious world of bottom brackets!
I must have been lucky with my Cannondale Synapse which does not suffer from 'creaks'! I have book-marked your web-site for if/when I need to fix any issues.
I also now have a better understanding why I was recommended to go with a threaded BB for my self-indulgent 70th birthday present to myself (custom Ti frame by Seven).
Thanks for the feedback! it is always welcomed.
Thanks for the feedback.
A huge thanks to you Hambini for posting this video.
An absolute joy to watch and simple to understand unlike most of the youtube “cycle channels” that are looking to boost the following by substituting fashion following and attempts at humour for real info.
You have a big thumbs up from me and I’m now a subscriber.
Brilliant username.
Thank you very much for this excellent presentation. The creaks are gone now, after first pressing the BB30 cups into the OSBB 61 x 46 mm(!) bracket (specialized venge carbon frame 2013) and using the Loctite 7471 to fix the cups in the carbon frame and, later, use the Loctite 641 to fix the BB30 bearings into the cups.
I bought a Planet-X carbon frame a few years ago, that had a BB30 bottom bracket. The Planet-X press-fit bearings and circlip fit well. I ran a vernier around the inside of the bb on the frame, the inside was good (ie round). I used a set square to try and ensure the bearings would line up laterally, they did. I fitted the press-fit bb, and the chainset (SRAM Red). So far in the last 6 years, no creaks. But I have only ridden about 2000 miles.
Good info. Seemed not to mention that bottom bracket creak can be from INNER bearing to crank axle as well as OUTER bearings to frame. Retention fluid to both a good idea
Team Sky should be calling you any day now with a position as lead engineer...... I learned a ton but way over my capabilities!
Why would he wanna work for a team full of dopers? Yeah.
There are a lot of moron in high places that would be threatened by this guy's creativity. I would advise him to just invent stuff and patent it.
@@scin3759 Excellent point
So why so many complaints of creaks on caad13 (and other al frames)? With a properly stabilized and jigged alloy frame it should be straight forward to machine an accurate bore straight through to proper interference fit tolerance?
Brilliant, I'm very impressed. Once my cannondale slate is out of warranty, the modification displayed in this video will be fitted. Thanks for the information.
TheK1steve thanks for the feedback!
This is a very detailed explanation that explains my problems on my 2015 Evo (non hi-mod). I find the details fascinating actually... Appreciate it!
You are very welcome
Finally, someone making some profound statements about an industry that is going into the wrong direction whenever it can.
Thanks for the insight.
I'll keep your offer for the replacement in mind should I ever be facing a bike with this "standard".
I love it, fortunately I've got a good old threaded BB (Campag Record.) I just find that BB30 was a poorer solution to a problem that was already solved by the outboard Shimano/Campag threaded systems. Now people are having to 'bodge' (And yours is one amazing A+ bodge:) ) a way to adapt frames back to the more reliable system. Unfortunately these adaptors make the whole system heavier than a standard threaded set-up...
@RollinRat No kidding the world is full of idiots...and that's why I love my mid eighties Benotto, chromoly and campagnolo group set...still in original shape.
@RollinRat Glad to hear that. I just hate all the new over engineered pricey garbage that has been coming out over the years. Carbon fiber is garbage in my opinion.
@RollinRat press or interference fit is everywhere in engineering applications, frames shouldn't be an exception. Hambini has even made his press fit rather than threaded.
Having watched your tech talk on the GCN show my first impressions were, wow this guy talks sense and I quickly realised that you are able to transfer your engineering knowledge and scrutiny into pure cycling science which, as a cyclist I can relate to. I too have an engineering background and love to set my own bikes up from scratch which can be as equally satisfying as riding them. This video gave an excellent insight into the bottom bracket design and your re-designed fitting looked like the dogs bllockos..... Personally I wish you all the best mate and hope your channel opens a few more doors for you in the not too distant future. (Hopefully the doors will be made from titanium with ceramic angular contact bearings for ease of access lol) but all the best. "I'm a cyclist and I live in the Pennines"
Firstly, loving the channel...... especially your "say it how it is" style....
Just one thing though..... Loctite activator doesn't make bond stronger...... it improves the curing on inactive surfaces, such as Anodized Ally etc....
Activator actually reduces the bond strength considerably below the locking compounds "Potential" strength..... BUT when bonding difficult surfaces, it's better to have a reduced strength bond that works, rather than a bond that fails to take....
I know it a small point, but I think it's work making, for clarity.
Great content! I've been looking for a video like this for a little while now. Absolutely learned a few things about BB30. thank you🙏
Thank you and love all the Info about the bb,, greetings from Singapore 👍❤
Very good Hambini. From engineer (mechanical) to engineer and cyclist (Litespeed Solano) to cyclist, you hopefully have applied for your patent by now. This idea is the bomb!
Thanks for the feedback!
Mr Hambini, I have a question regarding the one-piece bb30 to shimano 24mm adapter sleeve you made.. I was thinking .. after pressing it in from one side all the way thru.. the only thing keeping the one-piece sleeve in place is friction. Is that enough to keep it place. Doesn't that set up needs a lock ring of some sort for added security to keep that from slightly sliding back out where it came in? The material you used for the demo is aluminum/metal and the interference friction( is that correct?) is high because of the nature of the material.. But what if the frame material is carbon.. and have gone thru a number of bearings as such the 42mm bb shell have slightly been enlarged due to the process of press in and out. I hope you can comment and highly appreciate your suggestion. Thank you!
Impressive. Thanks for sharing. I came here trying to figure out what the BSA bottom bracket standard was, and ended up learning a whole lot. Thanks again.
Thanks for the feedback
Thanks for the well considered technical detail. Engineering insight over marketing fluff
I've recently had success with making bespoke bearing presses by 3D printing them in PLA or PETG plastic.
This is phenomenally well done. I love these videos; things me and my cycling buddies have always discussed.
Josh Frankum thanks for the feedback
Wow. I love your presentation and how informative it was. You addressed an issue and not only explained why it was problematic but created a solution. I have a connondale quick 6 and have been experiencing a clicking or popping when pedaling and considered the bb or the crankset. I was looking for a solution and came across your video. I’m intrigued by your adapter and would love one for my bike but not sure if I could fabricate anything as remotely as impressive or effective as yours. Nice work
My praxis works crank has a threaded BSA M30 BB, excellent for fitting a M30 spindle into a BSA english threaded frame. Great compromise.
Hambini, regarding your BB30 adapter, if the holes in the frame are not perfectly round (like your blank) will your adapter not slip from side to side? At least with the Praxis there is a lip and and thread to hold the two cups together. What will hold your adapter in place if friction is not enough?
I don't think I've watched such an interesting video in AGES. FULL STOP!!
This was incredibly useful and a lot of fun to watch. Really appreciate it. Thanks a lot for making this.
Thanks for the feedback!
Well spoken, and articulate!
Very helpful video. After watching I'm confident that threaded external bb cups are the best for average joe cyclist not racing in Le Tour. subscribed -
Thanks very much. I agree, the implementation of press fit BB's into bike frames was a bad idea.
Apparently, Team Sky still insists on threaded bbs, and as far as I can see, Pinarello still uses them on all their bikes. If you can win the TDF today with threaded bbs...yeah, press fit bbs are 100% bs.
I think that will change when the UCI drop the weight limit. When they do that, the weight saving from a pressfit BB will force Pinarello to look in that direction
Hambini BTW excellent video and keep up with making more, but I disagree with the comment. BB is a heart of the whole drive system and in my engineering opinion weight savings should never compromise BB area. You can shave the 100g or so elsewhere on the bike. Happy owner of Pino Dogma with threaded BB smiling hearing horror stories about press-fit.
Hambini, great video and excellent potential solution. Sorry if I've missed it, but roughly how much of each Loctite solution should I be using to fix the outer race into the shell? It's a carbon fibre frame. Thanks in advance! Freddie
Hello?!
I use Hollowtech Bottom Brackets for my road bike and no problems at all except it was like shite to install it by the bike tech who managed to get the job done.
BBRight owner here....never again! Great video as usual from Hambini but not as much bad language used alas 😅
Brilliant video, great explanation of bb30 issues. A real help for novice mechanics. 👍👍
Thanks for the feedback!
Important to note whether particular bearings should be installed one side at a time or if they can be installed simultaneously.
Superb. I hope you go into production. I for one really appreciate your explanations and engineering expertise. Gonna have a look at your website.
PETE WHITE thanks very much!
Thank you for creating this video.
Don O you are very welcome
saw the flaws in the design - fixed them. proper engineer.
What does the gritty bearing lead to? Catastrophic bearing failure, or just loss of watts?
Thanks for the BB 30 video. Your explanation has convinced me to avoid BB 30. Any alleged stiffness or lightness advantage is negligible compared to the problems. Different in the world of bicycle machine design is not always better.
Can the Smalley snap rings be reused? Or just left in when new bearings are fitted?
Thanks for the info its great to find truthful info on bike frames... thanks
I converted to BSA via praxis, been good last 5 years.
Hi H, A quick question. Do you mix the Loctite activator with the retaining compound or use the activator on its own?
Thanks
spray on activator and wait for it to dry. then use the retaining compound.
@@Hambini Thanks
This is such a good video & explenation of my imense iritations from my creeking BB30.
I have a Norwegian Nakamura, with press fit BB30´s which have plastic cups in which the bearings are pressed into. The hard thing to know then of course, is if the creeking comes from the friction between the Carbon frame and the cups, or from the bearing and the plastic cups, or from them both. I will ask my mechanic if he´ve used the additional locktight primer you showed. Because he has tried to fix this twize with no luck. I can´t believe that the road biking industry haven´t stopped with BB30 and moved on to a better solution. It seems to me that a 90,5mm standard where they machine the titanium bearing housing and have ways to incorporate that titanium housing into the barbon frame, would be the best of both worlds? Or is just the 68mm threaded BSA the best choice? Thanks anyways, so glad to see someone who has had the same problem, yet also the knowledge to do something about it and share. Thanks!!
Stian Maurstad i think you have got a pf 30 bottom bracket which is very similar. I'll do a video on that shortly. Bearing creak is so annoying.
I want to order a PF30 BB30 bracket for an 11 spd Sram red crankset. What do I need to measure the extended and or the short?
Simply amazing. Such a great gentleman. A true professional.
Thankyou for the feedback.
@@Hambini, I think Clint was being facetious; either that or he ain't seen your other videos ;-)
cannondale BB30 on aluminium caad8 caused me no end of problems creaking like hell evans just relubed it and gave me it back within a ride creaking again.
ended up having a threaded bracket fitted. costly mistake buying a cannondale
You are an aerospace engineer wow!
The thread in the road bike frame is the same as the hollowtech?
What stops the one piece BB from moving in the frame? (Ie moving to the drive side )
my thoughts eactly
Why would it?
I also wonder why this system would not develop its own creak. Wheels MFG makes a threaded system that keeps the bearings in the original location but the thin flanges on the out side lock the part into the pressfit location similar to the praxis system but with no o- ring in it .
@@rcg9573 because it can, it doesn't matter how much shite about interference fits he spouts the reality is, if it can move it will move. The guy is obviously a good engineer but he is no mechanic, watching him work is like watching a puppy try to fuck a beach ball.
I learned long ago that engineers generally understand theory whereas mechanics understand reality.
Brilliant idea to use a quick clamp, thanks for the ideas.
Where I can find drawings for Shimano (24mm) adapter on BB30 ? Or even better BB30 to GXP adapter?
hey Hambini, isn't there a need for a spacer between the bearings to counter for pre-load? [I'm really asking not pseudo-telling]. thanks
great infos for the two differrent retaining compounds.added to my knowledge today.
Couple of questions: first one, how do you remove those clips once inserted into the bottom bracket @ 5:49
secondly you claim a tolerance @13:13 for the bottom bracket hole to be 41.97 to 41.98 mm "any bigger than this then the bearing will fall through" At this point i turned the video off, however if you can recommend a machine shop to drill holes to within those tolerances 41.97mm to 41.98mm please let me know i'm sure NASA would be interested too.
Hi, To answer your questions.
1. You can use a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the snap rings. They are extremely easy to remove. If you look at my other video "BB30 Service" you can see how easy it is.
2. When I used to work at the NASA Dryden flight research centre (now called Neil Armstrong Centre), we used to drill the holes and ream them, that can give you a 10um fit. Alternatively with a boring machine you should get 12 microns fairly comfortably.
In carbon frames, you need a 30um interference to safely the keep the bearings retained. Any slacker and there is a risk the bearing will walk at excessive torque loads.
Hope that helps
Hambini
In reply to your answer: Im not getting into an argument here, circlips were invented for a reason, to be able to easlily remove them with circlip pliers or other tools and not a flat head screw driver that will probably damage your bottom bracket. A vernier caliper is not recommended for measuring inside diameters accurately to 0.01 of a mm and you should know that if you worked for NASA. Verniers have two flat edges therefore if those two flat edges came into contact with an internal diameter(Round) you will be able to read what it says but in reality the actual reading (diameter) will be greater (not rocket science) now if your talking microns then your miles away, think about it!
I agree entirely. use a bore micrometer for accurate readings. However, for showing the vast majority of youtube viewers, they are unable to read a micrometer but can read a digital vernier.
The Snap rings which are made by Smalley are designed to be removed with a flat head screwdriver. Look them up.
Thank you Hambini your video was good and i will watch the remainder
Watch this ruclips.net/video/ecT_6vjjjGQ/видео.htmlm24s and you will see why the snap ring requires a flat head screwdriver to remove it.
What is your opinion on the older Kogel BSA30/386-R (24895) which is a BB30 to BB386 adaptor that uses a solid sleeve and threaded BSA bearing holders? Ronald Kuba used one on a Specialized Tarmac to "fix" the creaking issue and install SRAM "BB30" long spindle cranks. I wonder what your take is on these and if you had any other solution or better option to have a very well aligned sleeve on a BB30 Specialized BB to mount long spindle "BB30" SRAM Red cranks.
me, expecting to fix my click by watching this video: *clicks video thumbnail*
you: "nothing really worked well so I built my own shell, out of titanium"
....thank you hambini
Yes, I got a kick out of that bit as well :) I ride a 20 year old Litespeed Ultimate and the machining on that frame is spot on so obviously I've got a thing for titanium ;)
I have a Cannondale Slice from c 2018 ((black/green/white colour) with the original press fit bb30 fitted - I'm interested in replacing the BB but noticed your website is out of stock - any plans to make any more at any stage?
Hi have a S-work venge 2015 with ceramic speed bearings. I have the dreaded creaking. I usually epoxy them in but after a season they start to creak again. Does you replacement part fixes the issue, if not what's my best options? Thanks
Can you use this BB 1 piece on my cervelo S5 2014 model
is there lost of power when we use adaptor on BB30
Love your concept of 1 bb
HAMBINI, THE ORIGINS
2013 F29er, Lefty, carbon here. I have a BB30. However there are no cups, spacers or snap rings. All I have are 2 bearings which are pressed directly into the frame's BB shell. I have changed them recently after 11 years of use. Have never had a creak or any problems. I changed them just because they were originals and had a lot of use. No problems. Yes, I know, if it isn't broke, don't fix it. I put white lithium grease around the bearings before I pressed them in. Have been riding all year in mud, dust and general wetness. No problems whatsoever. Am I just lucky?
Great video, tons of information and thank you for the extra links.
I’m a mechanical engineer and that means nothing in this context. However, I’ve two Time frames with BB30 and over many years or use have never a creak. It’s all about manufacturing; Time makes incredible bikes. The rest use at your own will.
Hi, can you show the proper way to remove BB30 bearings...? Reason I ask is I went to a mechanic who is good and who I trust to have my BB looked at because I thought it was creaking (turned out to be something else), and he banged out the bearings from the opposite side with a rubber mallet and a rod, and I was thinking that can't be right what he's doing. Seems it could damage the bearings as well. Thanks!
What about the spindle walking within the bearings? I'm not an engineer, but I am a mechanic who has dealt with hundreds of creaky 30mm spindle BB's. From what I've seen, most creaks are from the spindle to bearing interface and not the bearing to frame, or cup to frame interface. I never see any witness marks from movement within the frame, but plenty of wear marks on the spindle from movement within the bearings.
It should be a transition or sliding fit on the spindle. The interference is on the outside. If the spindle "walks" the outer is also "walking"
@@Hambini When I say "walking" I'm referring to the the spindle moving side to side within the bearings. Obviously, the spindle has to slide into the bearings to be installed.
From what I've seen, the worst offenders are the BB's that use a wavy washer. Even the the correct amount of spacers added, and the wavy washer compressed 2/3 of the way as per what I've seen specified, you can still physically push the cranks assembly sideways and move the spindle a slight amount within the bearings.
Over time, an aluminum spindle on a steel bearing will creak once it gets dirty between the bearing to spindle interface.
Look at any anodized 30mm spindle that's been used for at least 3000-5000 miles. the anodization will always be worn off where the spindle contacts the bearing from the ability to have micro movements within the bearing.
Hi Joey. That bit you are referring to is governed by the crank maker not the BB. I do agree, the Shimano style preload system is much better.
@@JoeyMesa This is happening to my spindle, as well; it moves within the inner race of the non-drive bearing. At first I thought it was a problem with the preloader (which I have replaced), but the creaking continues, so I inspected the spindle/bearing interface and found movement. In your workshop, what do you do to fix this?
You certainly know your stuff. Just a quick question, I have a cannondale caad 12 and suffer with the dreaded creak. I have you used numerous manufacturing alternatives but to no avail. Contemplating using Loctite, you mentioned the activator , is it worthwhile using the product with aluminium? cheers chris
It's not usually needed for aluminium. There is no harm in trying it other than the expense.
How about Derosa r838 what is the compatible BB?
Great video. Praxis Works PF30 on my GT bike is driving me crazy with creaking noises.
An excelent explanation. I have a question. I would like to buy an aluminium road bike. I like two bikes: the first is a Cannondale caad13, with BB30, and the second is a BMC Teamachine alr two, with BSA. Wich of these bikes do you choose? Thanks.
Hey! Would you still sell these?! I have a creaky caad 12 and can’t take it anymore!!!!
Thanks
I got myself hope bb30 for mtb and I hope it won't be crackling
In @Hambini We Trust
good work Mr Hambini
Still using the focus ST? How is the reliability of the car? Thanks in advance.
What's stopping the one-piece BB that you designed from sliding out of the bike frame (i.e. working its way out towards the drive side)?
Thanks for the video!
I really enjoyed watching your video, good to see engineering at it's best.
Thankyou for the kind comments
Hi
Thanks for sharing. Like your thinking re these miserable weight saving BB's. Did you use Delrin for your bearing carrier and what interference did you use for tube into the frame and likewise bearing into tube. I am guessing something like 0.03 - 0.04mm - yes/no? The other problem that occurs with stock bearings in the BB is that default bearing is single lip and really is more of a dust seal and not great with sealing out water. have you done any experimentation with alternate seals or even shields for said bearings? I have noted that the non-drive bearings always die before the drive side - I am guessing that the crank provides some form of shield.
cheers
Hi Greg, the fit is a bit of a PITA. You have a compound stack up in some frames and that screws up the final bearing fit which in turn makes the final bearing fit either tight or loose. I was using M7 but recently changed the alloy I use for my bottom brackets and that has necessitated a deviation in the fit. As for the bearings, I have not experienced the non drive side failing before the drive side but it's interesting that you point it out. I also haven't experimented with the seals - I don't have the manufacturing capability for that. Thanks Hambini