LN doesn't have any advantages against a tuned Stanley. I think as long as you take care of the grey cast iron on the Stanley's, they are lighter and work better than the LN.
I love, Love, LOVE your channel! But for the life of me, I can’t believe we’re still debating whether it’s bad to rest planes on their soles. I do it all the time-gently-and I know so many other woodworkers who do so, and we have NO PROBLEMS at all with our beloved tools! Having said that, I think you’ve produced one of the most helpful channels on planes on all of RUclips. So thank you!
That’s high praise and I sure appreciate it! The sole down vs. cheek down argument will most likely never be settled and that’s ok. It sure is fun to stoke the fire every now and then. People get very passionate about their beliefs 😅
Where are you with wire wheels? I went on a journey finding the longest bristle wheels to be the least aggressive option. I hVd often watched a movie with a tray on my lap to steel wool the hell out of small tool parts. I have bought so many tiny wire wheels for drill to get ones that work better.
I like the ones coated in brass for a softer approach. The brass tends to wear off rather quickly though. I used to get them at Tractor Supply but they’ve been sold out for a while. I think I ordered a couple off amazon at one point. The little wire brushes with a dremel can be a good option too, depending on the parts. At one time I was using a set of small pliers (various angles and such) to help out
You know that you might have a problem when you look at a plane with a busted wing and imagining what a repair may look like 😆 and popping that wing in the vice like that was just plain cruel 🤣
I do like your channel a lot and am about to buy my first hand plane from you. That being said, if you aren't supposed to rest your hand plane on the sole or the side then how are you supposed to rest it? Great content and keep up the great work. Stay safe and have fun 💯😁
It depends on who you ask. Some folks get fightin’ mad if you tell em they’re wrong so I just like to call out everyone at the same time. NO ONE is doing it “right”
It weakens the cast iron because it’s porous. Even if you can’t see the change with the naked eye, vinegar tends to make it more brittle and more prone to damage if it suffers an accidental fall from the bench
As always I enjoy your video's however there is one of your rules I break every time I use my planes. I always put them down flat on their base on my work bench and if on a concrete floor I will sit them on a wooden block. I have been a carpenter all my live and have never dropped or broken a plane much less cut myself. Another thing I do when cleaning rust of my planes is to use electrolysis. This get s rid of all the ferrous oxide but leaves all the patina intact.
The sole down / cheek down thing was just to poke lighthearted fun at folks who insist there’s only one way to do it. I like the wooden block idea. Usually I just put mine down in a pile of shavings if I’m being honest
I'm trying to figure out the type n age of a plane i recently purchased, its bout the size of a no 5, has Stanley stamped n the casting n front of the forward knob, the frog looks like n older Baileys but the adjustment lever is twisted , do u kno what this is ??? THANX for ur videos !!!
I have only used a scotch Brite and some wd-40 to remove surface rust on my vintage planes. Granted I've tried to be a bit selective in getting ones that were in fair condition ie no major putting to begin with. The Windsor plane from HF is at best borderline unusable. My Millers Falls planes, a no 9 and a no 14 and a Millers Falls made Craftsman block I purchased from you, are all pretty darn good users in my opinion. Good video overall! My one critique. If we're not to set them on the sole or on the cheek, what's left? With the toe on a piece of scrap or something of that idea?
Ps. I know you're on hiatus and hope you enjoy the time off, but I'm sure I'm not the only one waiting with baited breath on the continuation on combination planes.
The great sole controversy is my attempt at subtle humor in the video 😜 It’s always funny to me how some folks get so firmly entrenched in their position regarding how to place their hand planes on the bench. It’s really just a matter of personal preference.
Has their been a shift lately on the proper way to restore hand planes and other old tools with respect to leaving the patina? Videos from maybe 4-5 years and older seem to show bringing back to original or better the surfaces. They advocate vinegar, evaporust, and electrolysis and then abrasion to make the metal new and shiny looking. Has opinion shifted to trying to leave the patina as a badge of honor?
I think it all depends on who you ask. Lots of long time collectors have always preached about letting old planes look old. Perhaps it’s a newer generation wanting to make old things shiny and new again. I don’t think there will ever be a consensus on this topic
There are some good planes with plastic handles, Chaplin and Pope for example. That old putting it on its sole not putting it on its sole is personal choice. I'm more likely to knock it off my bench when its on its side.
I agree that it’s a personal choice. Thought I’d have a little fun with it though since lots of folks get so adamant that their way is the “right” way.
I built my plane till angled so it holds my planes by the corner. That way I'm not setting my planes on their sides or their soles. Or does it mean that I'm setting them on both their sides and their soles?
You have the best down to earth videos on planes that I have had the pleasure of watching.I have a good selection of tools as old as 1795 to present.These I use and I am not a collector so to speak.The average Joe or Jill will learn quite a bit as will collectors.Most of my planes were cheap and I look for the broken ones deliberately.I have made totes and knobs Lateral adjusters depth stops and other parts.One plane is made from 3 different Stanley's It's part USA ,England and Australian.Years from 1900,1930 and1960's.Stanleys are good like that.Thanks for doing such a good job Ritchie from Australia.
"pretty hard to top a lie-nielson", the other premium modern handplane maker is veritas, made by lee valley here in canada. very high quality and not just handplanes
I probably want to blame Jay Bates for all the vinegar supporters. 5:28 hurts a lot. I have used Evaporust several times. I do use other mechanicam methods to remove the gray-ish color left by it afterwards. I also cold blue screws and washer, and got even finsih, maybe indicating the gray layer is removed.
A couple of weeks ago, my mom texted me a picture of a plane from a yard sale. I spotted the plastic furniture, so I told her to pass on it. She had already bought it for the whopping sum of $1. So I accepted it, hoping that it would be better than I thought. It definitely is. It looks like a well made plane. It's a Ward's Master, made by Stanley, #5 size. It has maroon plastic tote, knob, and depth adjuster nut. The adjuster nut is metal in the center, and plastic on the outside. Kind of like a type 17, but plastic instead of hard rubber. It has Stanley's frog adjuster screw feature. It's missing the iron, chip breaker, and lever cap, unfortunately. The frog is painted red, and the body appears to have been japanned, or painted black. It's flaking off badly. The whole thing is so filthy, I can't really say for sure what color the body is. It weighs more than my type 19 #5 and my Keen Kutter K5. It was cast with a large dome shaped protrusion under the knob, which probably adds a little weight. It's a good quality plane, but, since Ward's Masters don't get any respect, it's not likely to ever be valuable. I'm thinking about going full on Resto-mod. Make it a scrub plane.
That sounds like a great project. Be sure to let me know if you want/need any parts for it. We can swap out the plastic for some nice wood furniture if you’d like to.
@@justplanefun , it's going to be on the back burner for a while. I'm thinking about making some wood furniture for it. The weird thing is, all of the screws are smaller than Stanley's. I pulled a screw out of my random household hardware screw can and it fit. I think it was 7/32, if I remember correctly. I'm going to need a depth adjustment wheel, and a cap screw. It might be hard to find the right diameter screws. Then again, I know this guy from Virginia with a huge hoard of parts. It might be easier to just slap a Stanley frog on it, though. It would be really easy to spend more on parts than the old plane is worth.
@@justplanefun you should see my set up long arm low speed buffer brass and steel wheels 4 different grits of deburring wheels she's patinas worst nightmare! Bluh haha 🤘😫🤘
Very cool vid MJ. I wish you would do one on how to ID unidentifiable planes. Have a # 5 from grand dad with a solid cast frog. Dying to figure out exactly who made it. Have idea but can't narrow down.
That removes all of the patina too though. I mean, you’re not wrong… but it’s typically best to use the least abrasive method possible, unless it’s just a real basket case and then all bets are off 😅
Interesting, I have used vinegar many times on dozens and dozens of planes. I have never had vinegar do that to any of the planes I have use it on. Maybe I didn't leave it in long enough to damage it. What did damage it was putting it in an ultrasonic cleaner. However those planes were too far gone anyways. Never broke a plane....knock on wood...
I hope you're feeling better Michael! 3:25 Of course, Rob Cosman would argue that the WoodRiver planes are far superior to even Lie Nielsen because he helped develop them at some point in his life. Hahaha.
@@justplanefun It's great for pickles! With majorly rusted parts that you just want to try saving, or if you actually want to darken a piece of cast iron durably, but without paint, soaking it in vinegar will do it without toxic fumes in the workshop. I don't usually use it on planes because it does color metal.
LN doesn't have any advantages against a tuned Stanley. I think as long as you take care of the grey cast iron on the Stanley's, they are lighter and work better than the LN.
I love, Love, LOVE your channel! But for the life of me, I can’t believe we’re still debating whether it’s bad to rest planes on their soles. I do it all the time-gently-and I know so many other woodworkers who do so, and we have NO PROBLEMS at all with our beloved tools! Having said that, I think you’ve produced one of the most helpful channels on planes on all of RUclips. So thank you!
That’s high praise and I sure appreciate it!
The sole down vs. cheek down argument will most likely never be settled and that’s ok. It sure is fun to stoke the fire every now and then. People get very passionate about their beliefs 😅
Where are you with wire wheels? I went on a journey finding the longest bristle wheels to be the least aggressive option. I hVd often watched a movie with a tray on my lap to steel wool the hell out of small tool parts. I have bought so many tiny wire wheels for drill to get ones that work better.
I like the ones coated in brass for a softer approach. The brass tends to wear off rather quickly though. I used to get them at Tractor Supply but they’ve been sold out for a while. I think I ordered a couple off amazon at one point.
The little wire brushes with a dremel can be a good option too, depending on the parts. At one time I was using a set of small pliers (various angles and such) to help out
You know that you might have a problem when you look at a plane with a busted wing and imagining what a repair may look like 😆 and popping that wing in the vice like that was just plain cruel 🤣
I promise it was already damaged before that!
I do like your channel a lot and am about to buy my first hand plane from you. That being said, if you aren't supposed to rest your hand plane on the sole or the side then how are you supposed to rest it? Great content and keep up the great work. Stay safe and have fun 💯😁
It depends on who you ask. Some folks get fightin’ mad if you tell em they’re wrong so I just like to call out everyone at the same time.
NO ONE is doing it “right”
@@justplanefun 😂😂
I set my plans on the sole every single time I use them. I try to fluff up a fresh bed of shavings before hand but mine are always on the sole.
Does vinegar cause any structural changes?
I usually just sand away those marks when lapping anyway
It weakens the cast iron because it’s porous. Even if you can’t see the change with the naked eye, vinegar tends to make it more brittle and more prone to damage if it suffers an accidental fall from the bench
Definitely broken the vinegar rule, my number 11 has a nice fat line across it.
Probably still useable though, eh? Even if it ain’t that pretty. My No5 size scrub plane is like that but it’s a workhorse!
After watching #8: Oh snap, thems fighting words!
After watching #7: You S.O.B. you got me!
😅😅
As always I enjoy your video's however there is one of your rules I break every time I use my planes. I always put them down flat on their base on my work bench and if on a concrete floor I will sit them on a wooden block. I have been a carpenter all my live and have never dropped or broken a plane much less cut myself.
Another thing I do when cleaning rust of my planes is to use electrolysis. This get s rid of all the ferrous oxide but leaves all the patina intact.
The sole down / cheek down thing was just to poke lighthearted fun at folks who insist there’s only one way to do it. I like the wooden block idea. Usually I just put mine down in a pile of shavings if I’m being honest
Electrolysis is a good option but I haven’t personally used it.
I'm trying to figure out the type n age of a plane i recently purchased, its bout the size of a no 5, has Stanley stamped n the casting n front of the forward knob, the frog looks like n older Baileys but the adjustment lever is twisted , do u kno what this is ??? THANX for ur videos !!!
Sounds like a Stanley 4Square if it says Stanley up front instead of Bailey.
Is it maybe closer to a No5 1/4 size?
@@justplanefun First off MJ thanx for the prompt response n yes it is more like 5 1/4 size, do u kno bout how old it is ??
Great video, thank you!
Thanks for watching! And for commenting 😀
Send that tote to Gordon!!
Hey that’s my new project tote at 7:14 just came in the mail today!
Heck yea! On the list of things TO do - repair totes!
Bought a stamped frog the other day, did not know what it was. It was an old Worth plane. Ironically the blade was the best condition
I have only used a scotch Brite and some wd-40 to remove surface rust on my vintage planes. Granted I've tried to be a bit selective in getting ones that were in fair condition ie no major putting to begin with. The Windsor plane from HF is at best borderline unusable. My Millers Falls planes, a no 9 and a no 14 and a Millers Falls made Craftsman block I purchased from you, are all pretty darn good users in my opinion. Good video overall! My one critique. If we're not to set them on the sole or on the cheek, what's left? With the toe on a piece of scrap or something of that idea?
Ps. I know you're on hiatus and hope you enjoy the time off, but I'm sure I'm not the only one waiting with baited breath on the continuation on combination planes.
The great sole controversy is my attempt at subtle humor in the video 😜
It’s always funny to me how some folks get so firmly entrenched in their position regarding how to place their hand planes on the bench.
It’s really just a matter of personal preference.
I do need to get back on track with the no45 series. It’s in-work but still a ways to go.
Has their been a shift lately on the proper way to restore hand planes and other old tools with respect to leaving the patina? Videos from maybe 4-5 years and older seem to show bringing back to original or better the surfaces. They advocate vinegar, evaporust, and electrolysis and then abrasion to make the metal new and shiny looking. Has opinion shifted to trying to leave the patina as a badge of honor?
I think it all depends on who you ask. Lots of long time collectors have always preached about letting old planes look old.
Perhaps it’s a newer generation wanting to make old things shiny and new again. I don’t think there will ever be a consensus on this topic
There are some good planes with plastic handles, Chaplin and Pope for example. That old putting it on its sole not putting it on its sole is personal choice. I'm more likely to knock it off my bench when its on its side.
I agree that it’s a personal choice. Thought I’d have a little fun with it though since lots of folks get so adamant that their way is the “right” way.
I built my plane till angled so it holds my planes by the corner. That way I'm not setting my planes on their sides or their soles. Or does it mean that I'm setting them on both their sides and their soles?
I think this means you’ve cracked the code!
You have the best down to earth videos on planes that I have had the pleasure of watching.I have a good selection of tools as old as 1795 to present.These I use and I am not a collector so to speak.The average Joe or Jill will learn quite a bit as will collectors.Most of my planes were cheap and I look for the broken ones deliberately.I have made totes and knobs Lateral adjusters depth stops and other parts.One plane is made from 3 different Stanley's It's part USA ,England and Australian.Years from 1900,1930 and1960's.Stanleys are good like that.Thanks for doing such a good job
Ritchie from Australia.
Ritchie - thanks for tuning in and thanks for the very kind comment. Glad to hear you’re putting the old Stanley planes to work!
Do occasionally oil the bottom and sides with oil in a can or deal with rust, it's humid where I live.
Absolutely. Some wax, oil, fluid film - anything to form a protective barrier and keep ‘em from rusting again
Stop dropping those planes! You know I don’t like bent irons! 😂
I promise you’ll never have to flatten that one 🤪
"pretty hard to top a lie-nielson", the other premium modern handplane maker is veritas, made by lee valley here in canada. very high quality and not just handplanes
True Story - I guess I’m more of a traditionalist in the sense that I like the older, more classic design.
@@justplanefun my shop has both, veritas and oldies. the oldies are getting better thanks to you
I probably want to blame Jay Bates for all the vinegar supporters.
5:28 hurts a lot.
I have used Evaporust several times. I do use other mechanicam methods to remove the gray-ish color left by it afterwards. I also cold blue screws and washer, and got even finsih, maybe indicating the gray layer is removed.
It was definitely already badly cracked before I put it in the vise!
@@justplanefun I know, yet it still hurts. I did that to my block plane once TBH.
lol, I guessed what not to do 7 was gonna be, just perfect MJ 😆
I’m so confused now! 😅
A couple of weeks ago, my mom texted me a picture of a plane from a yard sale. I spotted the plastic furniture, so I told her to pass on it. She had already bought it for the whopping sum of $1. So I accepted it, hoping that it would be better than I thought. It definitely is. It looks like a well made plane. It's a Ward's Master, made by Stanley, #5 size. It has maroon plastic tote, knob, and depth adjuster nut. The adjuster nut is metal in the center, and plastic on the outside. Kind of like a type 17, but plastic instead of hard rubber. It has Stanley's frog adjuster screw feature. It's missing the iron, chip breaker, and lever cap, unfortunately. The frog is painted red, and the body appears to have been japanned, or painted black. It's flaking off badly. The whole thing is so filthy, I can't really say for sure what color the body is. It weighs more than my type 19 #5 and my Keen Kutter K5. It was cast with a large dome shaped protrusion under the knob, which probably adds a little weight.
It's a good quality plane, but, since Ward's Masters don't get any respect, it's not likely to ever be valuable. I'm thinking about going full on Resto-mod. Make it a scrub plane.
That sounds like a great project. Be sure to let me know if you want/need any parts for it. We can swap out the plastic for some nice wood furniture if you’d like to.
@@justplanefun , it's going to be on the back burner for a while. I'm thinking about making some wood furniture for it. The weird thing is, all of the screws are smaller than Stanley's. I pulled a screw out of my random household hardware screw can and it fit. I think it was 7/32, if I remember correctly. I'm going to need a depth adjustment wheel, and a cap screw. It might be hard to find the right diameter screws. Then again, I know this guy from Virginia with a huge hoard of parts. It might be easier to just slap a Stanley frog on it, though. It would be really easy to spend more on parts than the old plane is worth.
What are you going to do with all those broken bodies??? I'd gladly take them off your hands. ☺️
If there are specific sizes or types you’re after, let me know. I have quite a few and wouldn’t mind thinning the pile in the broken sole graveyard
@@justplanefun no specific sizes at all.
Rustina no bueno for my personal plains that's why I brass wheel it off...
Agreed. Rust is no bueno. That’s why I like them brass / bronze tools.
@@justplanefun you should see my set up long arm low speed buffer brass and steel wheels 4 different grits of deburring wheels she's patinas worst nightmare! Bluh haha 🤘😫🤘
Very cool vid MJ. I wish you would do one on how to ID unidentifiable planes.
Have a # 5 from grand dad with a solid cast frog. Dying to figure out exactly who made it. Have idea but can't narrow down.
If you’re on FB, shoot me some pics via messenger. If not, email me at jplanefun@gmail.com
Thanks MJ will do. Out and about. Will send those pics.
MJ up in here dropping Sage Advice.
Mixing it up a bit! A few words of wisdom (hopefully) and a couple snippets not intended to be taken too seriously
MJ,
The only real way to remove all rust, fast and easy....is a blast cabinet. Great vid as always.
That removes all of the patina too though. I mean, you’re not wrong… but it’s typically best to use the least abrasive method possible, unless it’s just a real basket case and then all bets are off 😅
The best way to remove rust is teeth; just gnaw it out!
I am sad to say I own a corsair 😢
Pexto for the win… lol.
The best!
Tighten the WHAT out of the frog screws?
The bajeebees! Just make sure it doesn’t give you the heebee-jeebees in the process 😜
@@justplanefun that's what I reckoned you said , just seein' if we was on the same vernacular . 😆
Thank you
You're welcome!
He has a face.
I do!
Interesting, I have used vinegar many times on dozens and dozens of planes. I have never had vinegar do that to any of the planes I have use it on. Maybe I didn't leave it in long enough to damage it. What did damage it was putting it in an ultrasonic cleaner. However those planes were too far gone anyways.
Never broke a plane....knock on wood...
I hope you're feeling better Michael!
3:25 Of course, Rob Cosman would argue that the WoodRiver planes are far superior to even Lie Nielsen because he helped develop them at some point in his life. Hahaha.
Yes sir, definitely feeling better these days. Thanks!
WoodRiver makes a solid plane but I prefer Lie Nielsen since they’re made in America 🇺🇸 🤓
LOL. for sure.
Always put your plane sole down
That’s one school of thought 💭
Lie-Nielsen bench planes are modern Bedrocks.
Fair point. Bedrocks… with improvements in the metallurgy and overall machining
@@justplanefun 😀
Vinegar is a very good cleaner for some things if one understands that there are things that it isn't good for.
I hear it’s good in the kitchen
@@justplanefun It's great for pickles! With majorly rusted parts that you just want to try saving, or if you actually want to darken a piece of cast iron durably, but without paint, soaking it in vinegar will do it without toxic fumes in the workshop. I don't usually use it on planes because it does color metal.
😞 choose your tool kit wisely 😞 .
That's me looking at my none used tools 🫣 .
It happens to the best of us!