Cheap Loader Valve! Compact Tractor Loader Valve Install -How-To/DIY
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- Опубликовано: 29 июл 2021
- #Compact #Tractor -Installing a cheap $280 Tractor supply hydraulic loader valve onto a customers Ford 1220 Compact/Sub Compact tractor. Removing the hydraulic lines and old loader valve and replacing it with a brand new aftermarket loader valve with all new fittings. (Step By Step/How-To Style Video!) -#LoaderValve #Install
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Hi Biff Another great video as expected. Every video you make is in your "off" time...usually after work or on weekends....Hard work is a great feeling when done to your best abilities....your work ethic is a great asset of yours and does not get enough credit....Enjoy
Thanks a bunch man I really appreciate that! It is certainly a lot of work to hold a full time job, a side hustle/bussiness, and trying to run a RUclips channel to hopefully keep giving you guys entertaining videos in my free time but it’s Definitely satisfying work and because of guys like you it’s well worth all the time it takes cuz I can see that you guys appreciate it. Thanks a ton for your comment! 👍🏻
You did an excellent job. Thank you for sharing this video
Great video. All business. I watched every second of it. No extraneous time wasting video of, for example, your dog digging in the yard. Very well done sir.
As a young feller, probably middle school age, I wanted one of these little Fords bad. I thought they were a nice looking tractor! Great job!
Haha thats pretty funny man cuz iv always had a little crush on these 12 and 15 series fords also! Very good looking machine. Thanks for watching!
Very nice repair, looks better than the original valve. Routing of the fittings was clean and neat. Great video as always!
Thanks Jimmy I appreciate that, she was really happy with it, she kept saying “omg it looks so nice now!” Haha. I’m always happy when the customer is happy.. I woulda converted it to a single stick valve but that’s not what she wanted, she wanted to keep the tractor as original to how it was as possible. Thanks for watching!
Keep the videos going. Great job.
Nicely done!
Thanks a bunch buddy! Just saw you put out a new video as well, I’ll be watching it tonight!
** Just to clearly when working with hydraulics always stick with proper hydraulic fittings wherever possible.. if you do use regular pipe fittings like those 2 street 90s I used make sure they are Schedule 80 fittings which are very thick walled.. Schedule 80 has a burst rate of over 18,000psi.. they are safe to use under certain pressures but using them can cause leaks if your not using a good hydraulic thread sealant with them as the threads aren’t made as smooth as hydraulic threads. Remember that the lines coming off the loader are gonna be under much more pressure than the feed and return lines.. so be sure to use hydraulic fittings for all main loader lines as they are under the most amount of pressure. Also never use standard brass fittings or standard pipe nipples.. they can not handle the pressure.. always be sure to use proper hydraulic nipples like I did **
Dude close to 4k subscribers that's great, thank you for these awesome videos man
Thanks Cale! Appreciate you guys watching!
Great Video
Nice job! Amazing what can be done with a skilled person such as yourself. Have a great weekend.
Hey thanks Jean! Hope you been well and are enjoying your weekend!
Nice job.
Nice. Love those series of Ford. I had a 1920 for a while.
Thanks man, they sure are awesome machines! I believe most of them have a Mitsubishi diesel which is a good engine, we have a New Holland T1520 at work that I run daily and plow with in the winter it’s a good machine.. it’s the exact same machine as the Ford 1520.. the Ford 1220 is just a smaller version of the same tractor. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
@@BiffsEquipmentShibaura made the engines and the tractors for Ford. Just picked up a 1900 in Australia
The new valve seems like a nice unit.
Thanks Bob, I was very surprised for a $280 tractor supply loader valve! Worked fantastic and I cools even work 2 functions at once pretty easily with the RPM up a bit higher. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Nice repair Mike.
And, as a bonus, we get to see the finished gravel driveway from one of your earlier videos!
Hard to believe that the Ford 1220 you are working on has only 17 HP. Your Kubota 2370 shows how much tractor technology has advanced in only a few years.
Thanks Jeff! Glad you enjoyed the loader valve repair! She was very happy and has yet to have a single leak or issue with the tractor. Those old Fords are good machines but your right, tractor technology has come so far over the years, stuffing more and more HP under the hood on smaller and smaller machines.. you gotta love a Diesel engine, they are amazing. If I could never own another gas engine again I’d be just fine with it, that’s why I bought my Cummins haha. Thanks for watching my videos!
I switched my loader valve to a prince lvt, joystick valve and hoses on the opposite side as the one from tractor supply. Also has power beyond for the backhoe. It worked out well but was a pain to get the joystick handle right where I wanted it. Good job on keeping the old tractor alive!
Hey thanks buddy! Yeah I agree those cheap tractor supply valves are really great and work well for the price but trying to find their sweet spot to work 2 functions at once can be a little difficult.. it should actually improve with time tho as too break the valves in and work it a little more. Glad you also had a great experience with their loader valve! 👍🏻
Good job Biff. Maybe I'll see you at the Langford Tractor Pull this weekend.
Hey Ron! I’m going!! Maybe we can meet up buddy. Starts at 1am today I think
Awesome biff 👍
Thanks Buddy! Hope you been doing well man! How’s things been goin?
Great video and explain all details
Thanks man I appreciate it, I try to not skip over any details as I realize it’s normally the small details that can get someone hung up on something. Thanks for watching, Brand new video drops in about 45 min if you wanna watch it! 👍🏻
Nice Repair Job Biff!
Thanks Keenan! Hope all is well man! Summer has been flying by for me it seems.. glad to see the laundry mat bussiness is doing great!
Great work Mike, she will be happy for a job well done 👍🏻🙋🏼♂️
Thanks buddy! When I dropped it off she said “omg that looks sooo much better now!” Haha she was very pleased with the final product. She saved a ton of money too she woulda spent close to $1,800 or more going to the dealer to have it fixed. I was happy to be able to help her. Thanks for watching!
@@BiffsEquipment Good on you brother. Kindness always has its rewards one day.
Great video. Question, could have you gone with a more modern single joystick valve? If so would it be more lines/work? Thanks
Nice repair. I'm a big fan of your content! Just as an FYI the elbows and bushings looked like standard plumbing fittings and a mix of dissimilar metals between bushings.and other fittings which could cause galvanic corrosion. Also 3/4" Schedule 40 plumbing fittings are only rated around 2000psi working pressure. 3/8" Schedule 40 is only rated around 1700psi working pressure.Schedule 80 3/4" is rated 3000psi working pressure. I would stick with fittings designed for hydraulic applications to be safe and remove liability issues.
Hey Sean. I did mention this above in the comments section why I used those 2 elbows and bushings.. I used SCH 80 which were very thick walled, burst pressure was over 18,000psi it said on the website which was why I used them.. also I only used those elbows for the feed and return lines.. for the main lines going to the loader I uses all hydraulic fittings aside From the bushings which were galvanized.. I used galvanized so it wouldnt rust and so it didn’t introduce rust into the system.. the tractor actually had a galvanized elbow on it already when I got it as well as a standard brass elbow which is a BIG no no as standard brass can’t handle these higher pressures so I got rid of that. I even talked to my local new Holland dealer he told me they use galvanized all the time when they have to. The biggest reason you wouldn’t wanna use regular pipe threading aside from their lower rated pressure is that their threads aren’t cut as cleanly and they can leak if your not using proper thread paste. I had zero leaks so I’m confident it’s gonna be fine.. also this tractors rated pressure is only at 2,500 and the relief out of the box was set at just 2,000psi as that’s where I felt the old valve was set so that’s well below the rated pressure of those elbows especially being that they are only on the feed and return lines. Galvanic corrosion (possibly) could happen but I find it unlikely with oils.. also they had galvanized elbows on there already and everything was fine and hydraulic oil was clean which was why I used those 2 elbows on the first place but ONLY for the feed and return lines.
I had explained all this when I recorded the video but edited it all out to keep the video short on time and I kinda wish I kept it in the video.
Thanks for the comment man 👍🏻
That's great information for us 1st timers. Thank you!!
Trying to figure out a 3rd function for my tractor to run a grapple
Silly question? The spool valves and lever are mounted in the body with that plate that has the levers hinge pin and 4 screws. It hard to see with out looking at it in person, but can they be unbolted, pulled out a bit, rotated 180, and put back together?
That size of tractor/loader would be great to have! Unfortunately very unusual in Sweden….
Haha yes I agree! It’s really the perfect sized tractor.. it’s just a TOUCH bigger than my Kubota BX with larger rear tires but not quite as large as your typical compact tractor.. very nicely sized tractor indeed!
Sticking valve - that’s scary. When you let go of the valve handle and things don’t stop 🛑 …. That’s less than ideal!! I’m new to your channel! Good stuff man.
Haha it certainly is! A sticking loader valve is never fun specially when the person who owned the tractor is elderly because they may not know how to deal with it when it happens. Glad you enjoyed my video and hope you’ll stick around for more! 👍🏻
Dam, is there anything you can’t do ? Another great job buddy.
Haha thanks Rick! Hope all is going well on your neck of the woods, thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
My loader valve sticks sometimes. My tractor sits outside and so I have to hit the exposed valves with some wd40 as well as the linkage and that usually takes care of it. Sounds like your sticking valve was internal. Mine leaks also, I think its time to fix the leaks.
Thanks for your comment Mike! Sounds like your loader valve might be on the way out but on second thought if WD40 is fixing the issue then it sounds like it may just be the linkages that the valve controls that are seizing on you. Is this on a Kubota BX? Mine actually sticks going up too once and awhile but I think it’s internal on my loader valve. Iv been meaning to spray the linkages to see if it stops but I really think it’s inside the loader valve on my tractor because it’s only when the loader is nearing the very top and when I have a lot of weight in the bucket that it does this so it’s quite rare when it happens but does happen from time to time.
@@BiffsEquipment I'm pretty sure it is the linkage because it is ok until it sits out in the rain and the linkage gets a little rust on it. I try to keep it sprayed down so it won't rust. I have some O-ring seals on the fittings I think are leaking. I have a 1991 Kubota B7100.
Hello, nice video. I did not read thru all the comments so I apologize if u may have answered the question already but I have almost an identical tractor as this and was curious as to where the other ends of ur In and Out lines from the valve are plumbed into the tractor?
Thanks Bob, If I remember correctly the one like came from the pump near the motor, or maybe both lines did.. either that or one came from the pump on the side of the motor and the other may have went back as a return line in the tank. I wish I could remember but it’s been awhile. You may be able to find a diagram online if you search around. Best of luck!
What was the part number for that valve
You should use hydraulic lock tight not Teflon on hydraulic fittings
Were those 90's standard pipe, or hydraulic rated? Nice video
90s were schedule 80 galvanized pipe which is fine to use as the burst rate is about 20,000psi.. the rated pressure is also well above 3k. They had one galvanized fitting on it before and even one standard brass fittings which regular brass is NOT ok.. so it’s def safe now. I only used those street 90s because I wanted them to be strong hanging off the sides plus I only used them on the feed and return lines which have much lower working pressure than the 4 main loader hoses do.. that’s why for the 4 main hoses going to the loader I used all hydraulic fittings. It’s very important not to use regular gas or water pipe nipples too.. their rated pressure is only 200psi as they have a seam in them.. always try to use all the hydraulic fittings you can on anything high pressure and deffinelty make sure your using hydraulic nipples like I did. 👍🏻
I've got a 1974 Ford 420 industrial. The loader control is very jerky, whereas my neighbors kubota is silky smooth. Would replacing the valves address some of the jerkiness in my tractor, or is it just a factor of a 48yr old hydraulic system?
I would say it’s most likely in the loader valve as this is what controls your main functionality of the loader itself and it’s smoothness or jerkyness. I’d start with a new loader valve as they are cheap and pretty easy to install. This one from tractor supply was nice and smooth
I just installed mine and they all seep from the connections to valve body. I did not do Teflon tape so perhaps that was my mistake?
Hey Bob, you did the right thing, you do not want to use Teflon tape with hydraulic fittings.. the only thing you’ll wanna use is a hydraulic thread paste made specifically for hydraulic fittings.. you can find this at your local Napa that’s where I got mine. That’s the only thing I ever use on hydraulic fittings and Iv never had a single leak using the stuff. If you go and find some of my other videos.. such as the “Artillian plow install” video I Believe I go into detail about what type of paste I use and why when connecting the fittings and threading them on. Best of luck!
Oh that's wild I just bought a 1220. Do you or have you had any issues with the HST? The tractor likes to creep when i let go of the pedals. I'm hoping it's a linkage thing and nothing inside the trans but hard to say.
This wasn't my personal tractor but yet this one also would creep forward quite a bit once I let off the HST Pedal. My guess is its prolly the HST pedal Return spring.. If you look underneath and find the linkages for your HST pedals there should be some sort of heavy duty spring that makes the pedal return back to neutral.. I would replace this spring as its prolly worn out.. You can also try re-adjusting the HST pedal as over time the linkages wear and they are no longer adjusted properly for neutral (or center) So there should be an adjustment under there near the linkages where you can adjust a bolt or a threaded rod on the linkages so that you can re-center the pedal to get it to come back or west in neutral again. I would def start there and also replacing any shock dampers and loose linkages.. If you do all that and its still happening then more than likely your issue is gonna be with the swash plate inside of the transmission which is a very expensive repair and prolly wouldn't be worth fixing. Best of luck!
Does the new loader valve have a float position for the loader arms?
Yes this loader valve did have a float I believe. The loader valve I installed in my most recent video on the other hand did not. That loader valve was from eBay. Go check it out cuz if you enjoyed this video then you’ll really like the one I just made installing an eBay valve 👍🏻
why didnt you get the smaller valve set at 1/2" and 3/8" to start with, and the block could have been mounted under by just moving the control lever mounts round 180 degrees, you jusyt made a heap of extra work for yourself, plus convention says up is back, and crowd is back
What do you need grade #8 bolts to hold that valve to the plate?
You don’t.. it’s just what I had laying around. Woulda used grade 5 if I had them in the size I wanted
Could you just get a 3 stick loader valve to get your 3rd function for a grapple??
Yes you could! Having a 3rd valve would operate another cylinder.. say a grapple cylinder or a cylinder on a 4-1 bucket. So absolutly you could do that! Best of luck!
Hi! How long is your trailer? Thanks
My old trailer was only 12’ long, my new trailer is 16’ long.. 12’ was always cramped and often I couldn’t fit what I needed on there and had to keep some equipment in the back of my pickup truck.. I’d say don’t go any less that 14’ to be safe but 12’ will work for the bare minimum wirh our a backhoe
should have gone with a single stick...
Hey George, I actually was going to convert it to a single stick but she for one didn’t want to spend the extra money and for two she said she’d rather have the 2 sticks on their because she has owned that tractor over 20 years and that’s what she said she was use to.. she woulda been confused with a one stick valve as she doesn’t run any tractor but her own.
Wenn ich diese Amerikanischen Hydraulikverschraubungen sehe... Alle Konisch dichten!!!
Dann wird mir immer ganz....... Unwohlsein.
Da sind Europa Schneidring metrisch Verschraubung deutlich besser....
Ich habe eine Maschine aus Kanada. Die Schläuche aus den USA waren sehr schlechte Qualität. Ich habe alles umgebaut auf gute Europa Verschraubungen.