Best Condensation Solution for Metal Roofing
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- Опубликовано: 7 ноя 2018
- When looking for the best way to solve condensation drip inside a building with metal roofing...look no further. Drip stop applied to the underside of your metal roofing is awesome. What I love about it the most is it works...secondly I love that it saves me time and effort on the jobsite.
For all the accurate information that I didn't have exactly in front of me when I created this video...check out their website below
www.dripstop.com/how-it-works....
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Please watch: "Building a Mancave 8: Porch roof and trim details"
• Building a Mancave 8: ...
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I am building an 8 by 12 wood fired sauna. Even though I will have a vapor barrier I justed ordered metal roofing with dripstop. For the price I think it makes sense. I hope a good vapor barrier, good venting and dripstop will prevent condensation issues. I am glad that I saw this video.
Robert Lane , I would use 3/8 plywood and 15# felt than steel , you do not want anything like foam board over head celtec bubble wrap anything that can melt in case of a fire . I just did a pole barn using 1/2 inch plywood and 30# tar paper they use gas torch a lot and work with flammable products.
With Ryan's ruclips.net/user/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan, I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
Thanks so much for sharing this Dude. Was never sure whether those wet streaks on timber was condensation or leaks!
They make and sell that type of felt lined roofing steel here in Woodburn, Indiana. Great product and worth the investment!
Hey man, thank you for sharing, all good information, building a roof for our hot tub, I think the product your talking about is just what I'm looking for. Thanks again for 👍
Boy are you an answer to prayer 🙏 thanks, been looking for a solution to this problem!
Super helpful idea.
Intelligent
Building
Exteriors
That's what we keep coming back for Kyle !! Thanks for sharing
Love this product idea. Where I am in the GTA, Ontario. We use different application but she goe's from -30°C (-22°F) "or less" to +40°C (104°F) "or more" have never hade a leak but like the idea. Makes sence
they also use that on the inside of camper shells, had one and it worked great when sleeping in them on the side of a mountain
over here in ireland we get roof sheets with 4 inch rigid foam insulation bonded to the underside, and always use felt under the steel, because its a wet climate its essential
id like to see a price comparison steel frame with kingspan sheeting vs all timber and insulated
Very interesting product. Will definitely be looking into this. Thanks for sharing
In my experience with a northern midwest climate, metal roofs will sweat regardless of the ventilation. With enough ventilation, an occasional sweat may not ruin your home, but it will happen. The only way to prevent it entirely (that I know of) is solid sheathing directly under the metal. OSB, felt, metal, with no air gap.
I knew of that product, where I am at it is mostly used in buildings where there is a higher then normal moisture load, either a dirt floor, or animals.
I had an Amish company build my "residential pole structure", they call that type of steel "Roof Wrap". It has been through two winters and a summer and I have had no moisture issues, good stuff.
I like these items reviews. Thank you.
You can purchase the overhang part without the fleece , i use the fleeced metal only cause of the sound reduction . The fleece starts growing mould cause its always moistened without proper ventilation , I usualy run a higher substructure over the tyvek or whatever you would use on your roofs .
I used it on a party barn once. We only have foil bubble in our area. Looked very nice, scratches easily had to reorder a couple people pieces that arrived with a couple runners.
I've never had a scratch issue
never heard of that... cool stuff !!
We built a 50x120 a few years back and they opted to go against my better judgement and not put any of the drop stop or any synthetic tar paper. Which I was glad because that just adds so much labor. But the whole inside was insulated very well and then steeled with white. He installed a waste oil burner and it must have been because of excess moisture in the air from the burner but it dropped so much from the roof that it soaked the insulation and dropped through the ceiling panels. Even with all ventilated soffit and ridge cap
Thanks again 👍 for the detail video
I've never seen that stuff before. My building came from Menards, I could have bought their insulation which I believe has a plastic film with insulation inside for walls and roof. Only thing I didn't like about my building was the fact the contractor used ring shank nails instead of screws. My building was 30x54 10 feet. It was very cold in wintertime and I used a salamander while in there. I had 3 cars, a tractor and boat in their at different times. Wood working tools and lawn care stuff. My building here in Florida is 40x60 one side is enclosed with an upstairs but other part just has a roof an one side with metal. That building has seen better days. It has I beams through out. All electric is running through the concrete in pipe.
I used iT here on my carport and i love it !.
Your video is awesome and I watched your channel, it was so beautiful
Kyle. I am currently putting up my first barn a 30X54X13 I plan on installing vented soffit and the ridge venting. will I need anything else. not going to finish the inside right now. but I plan too later.
Thanks
I've used this product a couple of times saved a lot labor like you said. But mostly I use bubble wrap rolls since my normal metal supplier doesn't offer it
You should use a tape like decking tape on the top of any timber where it is in contact with the drip stop fabric. This won’t alter any condensation build up but will prevent it from being wicked away into the timber and the timber becoming wet.
I believe what you are talking about is called
"Blue skin"
@@thegreatwhitenorth8754 blueskin butyl flash Or an equivalent self sealing tape.
Okay Dude we have talked before. Like your detail and timeline. Yet we discussed a few weeks back about a proper vapor barrier. If you tape the joints you will never have concern about condensation. The amount of time you take with story boards and squaring your buildings (which I may add I respect), taping your vapor barrier will have the same effect.
this is not due to vapor from the condition space alone... and I agree with you. this product is for those sheds with zero ceiling or insulation...you get those cold slabs in the spring and the sun hits the steel roof and you get the drip on the concrete. This will prevent that
@Doug Neufeld
not quite right, that condensation on the metal is due to temperature difference in the attic vs the outside of the steel which is directly exposed to fresh cold air, the air even in a fully vented attic is always a tiny bit warmer than outside, this makes vapor from the fresh air condensate on the underside of the steel
here in the old world we use something similar to a house wrap, it is a plastic/fiberglassy sort of type film that has the underside of it covered with this felt type material, if anything drips from the steel on to the glossy top side of the film, it either rolls down, or if passes through, stays on the underside of the film till dries out, there is a vented air gap between the steel and top of the film, and a 2" vented gap under the film, only then the insulation is placed, which is the usual setup - the wind barrier, then the insulation (no less than 6" of rock/fiberglass, some even go up to 16"), then vapor barrier, then the inside paneling, if the house is going to be air conditioned, then there is some 2"-3" insulation between the vapor barrier and inside paneling (sheet rock/drywall) to stop vapor from condensing from the outside on the cool inside wall
@@dsfs17987 Great comment! Good points. So, venting is key. But what if there is no wind? How about a fan in the attic for those days? My situation is a bit different. I am in the Tropics. The seamless metal roof I am looking at can come with a foam like 5 mm plastic foam glued to the roof panel. I am afraid that the glue is going to peel off over time (as the heat hits the roof) and eventually delaminate. I will also put some kind of reflective barrier a few cm from the roof below to reduce heat inflow. That should help with evaporation, but not in the mornings so much. I am thinking venting is key. I am not 100% sure I can do a ridge vent. The last builder looked at me if I came from a different planet when I did ask, but the new one has more experience. I do have soffit and gable vents.
@@pierredemare609 I'm not sure about how it should be done in tropical zones, I live in a temperate region, so it is mostly warmer inside than outside, and properly built roofs work sort of like chimney, so there is no need for forced ventilation
I'd guess you don't have much of a problem with this, any condensation will simply dry out once the heat kicks in during the day, best bet is go to your local city council, they should have a building department, and talk to people there, they should know best about local peculiarities
If this stuff works, I'm buying!
Great video with an awesome tip.
The place we bought built in the carport and the inside is spray foamed and the condensation makes it leak all the time. On all the furniture. What you think we could use drip stop on the outside on the roof? or is there anything you recommend?
Seems like the moisture in the felt product.... would begin molding?
Good stuff thank you 🙏
In Russia, they put a 50 mm counter-lattice. Raft-membrane-a 50x50mm bar is stuffed on top of the rafters on top of the membrane-then across the board 25mmx100-150 mm and only then a metal sheet, so that due to the 50mm gap, the roof ventilation is provided and the condensate dries.
Hello from Russia.
It seems like the overhang moisture would evaporate in due time just like any moisture in the attic does. I’m just wondering how necessary it is to burn the overhang. Is that part of the manufacturer’s recommendation?
Cool product. Nicely explained. Maybe I should have this under my kitchen sink. As always, a BIG 👍 from me.
Yeah, now that's a good idea, for a leak or something spilled that you don't discover until months later...
Are you thinking of something like "Kitchen Sink Sound Dampening Kit" ? It's a thing
I think it's possible
How often do you build a roof deck prior to laying the metal roofing? I think the only time I have seen you do it was the Jimmy Diresta build.
Brilliant advice this.thanks
Never seen it before but it makes sense
I have a lady friend who has way more money than I ever will. ( Lawyer lady) She had a pole building barn built for her animals and supplies. The Amish built it and by the time I saw it completed, she and my buddy who was her man at the time, showed me all the condensation that actually rained down inside her barn in the cold season as she ran heaters inside and brought the " rainforest" type environment upon herself. They asked me how I would have done things and about insulating etc. I had 0 experience with metal and could only think there has to be an insulation solution that they will have to undergo AFTER the fact. I never did see their solution. This Drip Stop seems lkike that would have been exactly what she needed. BEFORE getting the roof metal installed.
Did she ever find a solution cause I have the exact same issue?
@@MrBmill25 I am not sure but can see if she can answer if I give her a call. I will try to get the answer. It will help me in the future too.
@@mlasch1478
Never heard from her? :(
She ghosting him…
@@timgads1712 @nighttrain022 @mlasch1478, Nope, not ghosting, I just had some family emergencies that consumed my time virtually 24/7 due to my elderly dad landing in the hospital.
If you have a loft and it's insulation in between do you still need to insulate under the metal on the roof?
Now that is an interesting truss/purlin design. Thoughts?
I have to 12x24 Amish built sheds with an open designed metal roof (only purlins, no OSB). Could I apply this to the existing roof?
Hi bro, I like your channel I learned a lot from here, do you have any way of installing structures for the hidden gutter? for a modern home such as a modern farmhouse.
What was your thoughts on the Walters materials and design overall? I am considering using them to supply the materials when I build a pole barn next year.
not my favorite overall...but then again I am partial...I like some of their trim details and dislike others. I like the 1' rib profile on the steel panel
Any recommendations for guys like you in southern Wisconsin? 45 x 80 with 12' lean to's on either side. Insulated with interior. Thanks!
Wondering if you used the pre-formed steel roofing gasket strip on the top of the fascia?
Bob Haas bob I use them on every building package I construct. This was a Walters building and they don’t...
I know your focus is not quonset huts, but I have a new quonset hut that needs insulation and I value your opinion. The building is 40x56 and will be eventually be broken up into usable spaces with one being a wood shop. For the overall structure, would you go with closed cell spray foam, or look at something else to help regulate the temperature and keep condensation problems to a minimum? I live in southern Kentucky and we are a pretty wet climate.
Good luck. Lemme know what you end up going with and how it turns out
I stripped my roof with 1x4s directly under the metal. Will the 1x4s rot out quickly from this and cause my roof to not be secured and more susceptible to lift in high winds?
Any MOLD forming issues?
If you use drip stop panels placed over fiberglass shingles will mold form??
Hey Kyle, where are you guys based out of? Also would this work for a container home? I've heard they have extremely bad condensation issues especially out here in Wisconsin with cold Winters.
Useful video.
I was hunting for something about how to flash large round roof protrusions for a solar tube, videos I find so far look like disasters, if someone knows how to do it right it seems that it would be you. Thanks love your videos
I follow on IG but failed to come watch the youtube videos, stumbled up on this video because we are putting road barrier as a roof, it's pretty crazy, and I notice condensation the other day and I don't think my boss or arquitec are aware of that problem
what about standing seam with ends fold. do you still burn off?
What builders package do you normally use?
I have a little work shop I mainly use to park lawn mower and garden tiller in . I have supper bad condensation on the metal roof.if I put silicone roof coating on it and spray inside with truck bed liner would it help there is no ceiling?
Ventilation is NOT the answer that I can assure you all. I have extensive ventilation 8 x the recommended amount condensation persists. Yes it helps, but is NOT a cure for anyone who is wondering. Insulation would be the best option and sealing of any run off entry points and similar. Good luck. Nice video 👍
Everything metal outside gets wet at night during the summer where I'm at. So yes obviously it doesn't solve all problems
Can you install in attic after roof is already installed? Can it be installed between joist spaces?
Love your vids.
My car port had clear polycarbonate on it and it was always condensing on to my car roof even with it open at all ends. I installed profile roofing and the company asked if I wanted anti condensation coating which I took at an extra 40 pence per linear metre. Best ever thing I did. Over a year now and not a drip. And if you have a screw that is causing a leak it is instantly recognised as the felt coating turns dark and easy to remedy.
If you use polycarbonate sheets, mount them double with 5 or 10mm foam blocks in between... problem solved.
@@czondag Or use double panels, made for green houses.
We have a borkholder building and for some reason the osb under the roof down towards the eave is starting to turn black from water and the building is only 12 years old... pretty sad
Also, where can I order Drip stop? Thank You
great explanation
Hey Kyle...really been digging your videos. Planning on starting a barndo build for my family in a few months and was hoping to be able to reach out for some more pointers. Is there a way to DM you??
Is this necessary if the pole barn finished space is insulated and air sealed and the attic is well vented?
Does it mold at all from witholding condensation??
Spray foamed mine with a thin layer and have no water issues, also don't go deaf anymore when it rains.
Did you do that yourself, with a kit?
I have always used shingles on houses. I have recently bought 17 acres for me and my wife. I built a very small home 12'×16' with a single pitch roof. 2x6 with 1x3" slats. I noticed when using the heater. Condinsaction started to acure pretty bad in places. I have R-13 but should I put Cell fome on it 1st? I would guess the 1" slats will alow outside air to go threw the vents. But by adding 1" fome bord then my R-13 should stop this. Or am i wrong? Please let me know we are on a budget now. Thank you and have a blessed day.
Mixing different types of insulation in the same wall or ceiling is usually not a good idea.
What’s your opinion on insulated box profile roof panels?
What are the exact exterior dimensions of the 8'x6' shed? I'm seeing a lot of conflicting information, and need exact for a deck
Hello! I have a gazebo with a metal roof, and I want to put a wooden ceiling underneath. The problem is that in the morning condensation forms under the sheet metal. Will installing glass wool or styrofoam between the sheet metal roof and the wood ceiling fix the problem?
Just wondering if there is a reason you screwed the ribs on the roof for this building? That seems to be the norm here but I thought you always screwed the roof in the valleys of your steel
Sorry I should have explained. This was another builder package and the spec called out rib screws....not by my choice
Come on Cody, don't going trying to start an insy or outsy debate, all roofs are special for a reason.
Mark Harvey come on it is obvious you aren't Paul, he wanted to know the rest of the story.
@@RRBuildings I would think with this product on the underside of the roofing material, screws through the flat portion of the roof would crush the product thereby rendering less the spec.
Drip stop is a great product we use it in are metal shop.
What I learned from this video....there are steel roofs which are fixed by bolts thru the ribs. @4:18 and forward, you can see them. Also later in de video, you see them from the outside. 👍 😁
In Australia (at least) all (well pretty much "all") "corrugated" (including custom orb and trimdek types and similar variants by other manufacturers -- cliplok and standing seam - types have either absent or hidden fasteners) metal roofs are fastened through the "ribs"/ridges not the "pans"/valleys/troughs - it greatly reduces leaks - for when washers weather / perish, or if the screw is placed a little "askew" (dodgy install)
- All our metal suppliers direct to only fasten in valleys / pans for walls, never (verify) for roofs.
Thank you, for this video. On a light rainy day i noticed water dripping down facia and inside facia. Traced to rainwater wicking up along this anti condensation material prefitted to roof. Could not find an answer until viewed this video. First dry day i will be trying this out. Only answer available .DS
How do you apply stuff to an existing roof? My house has a tin roof. It sweats a lot in the winter.
So is your formula to vent the attic 2-1/2 air exchanges per hour?
I do not know about all that Steve...
Can you spray foam against it or is it better to spray foam rate to the steel I'm looking at putting up a building no interior finish can spray foam Lucknow putting Tree in roof and walls
Is this primary for uninsulated structures?
Chris Robey yes 100%
Run some Sill Seal on the outside bandboard. Done!
available from American Building Components also
What do you think about applying GRAFOTHERM underneath the metal (sheet)??
I think Grafotherm may only be in the UK. Out of interest, we had 5000sqm of pre-applied Grafotherm on sheets a few years back and a stacking error meant it was patchy. Their solution was the manager and his wife driving up and fixing it by hand themselves. Can't beat that customer service!
Couldn't the steel manufacturer leave the 'drip-stop' off the lower 2 inches (overhang) ?
What would you use on a Existing roof..
hey my friend, in germany we have some kind of spray glue for it....so you dont have to strip or burn it off.
INTERESTING STUFF...
Can this be used on your wall steel to keep condensation from getting into fiberglass bats??
This was the first of your videos I saw. Been a big sub since.
Wonder how often you use this product.
Expensive ?
Can it be added to any metal roofing r panel type ?
Thx Kyle.
is that spray available as stand-alone? I wonder if that would be a solution for metal ceiling. I'm converting a school bus and have condensation. Running a propane currently switching to wood burning stove as people tell me that the LP cause the condensation
I am a rollformer, and yes, we will sell this product by the foot. approximately $1 per foot. It is 40 inches wide and it has a plastic backing to prevent it from sticking on itself. Look up Rush River Steel.
I would recommend a diesel heater. I really like mine, and it adds no moisture. If anything, it would dry out the air.
We always had to crack open some windows for ventilation being that type of heat take all oxygen out of air and condensates
What if you have blown foam insulation and it's cold out and warm inside
Would you still use OSB under metal roof New York State?
So I have a new building and the builders didn’t put anything on it to prevent condensation. Will this felt stop the condensation so I can insulate everything
if you live west USA look up Parker Buildings, Hubbard, OR
What did you think of the Walters building?
I am a roll former that installs this drip-stop product near Henderson, MN. The critical part of this product is it needs time to evaporate. If you have a situation like a calf or milk cow loafing barn where it can potentially reach a point where condensation is developing a lot more then evaporation then you have a nightmare. It will start raining in your building and it wont stop. This product has it's place, but I personally don't recommend dripstop in animal confinement barns that don't have adequate air movement to evaporate the condensation. For every 25 customers there are 3 that are not happy with this product, because of this issue. In these situations where it doesn't evaporate on time, double bubble insulation tends to work a lot better.
try 200 gsm even 300 gsm felt.
Wouldn't having the moisture held right against the metal cause it to rust quicker? Seems like enclosing the attic space and blowing in insulation is a better idea...
Kyle, what can be done if you have a pre-existing building that has a condensation problem?
spray foam or add a ceiling and insulation
Have you ever solved the problem of a post and frame pole barn with a shingled roof with no overhang/eaves on the sides?
Appears to be a good product! ....13
Great videos I been watching and subscribed highly recommended to my friends , THIS IS METAL ROOF BUT ANY SUGGESTIONS IN ALUMINUM ROOf they unrolled one whole piece but the edges are too short & drips straight into the walls what can i do ?
Super useful & greatly educational & helpful to me. Thank you for sharing!