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Cheap Fix: DIY EBCM Repair - Fix Brake and ABS Lights (C0265, C0241, C0251, C0252, C0245)
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- Опубликовано: 3 мар 2018
- This time on Chaos Garage, we reflow some solder joints in the Electronic Brake Control Module on my 2000 Chevrolet Silverado truck. I am hoping this will fix the intermittent brake and ABS lights as well as get rid of our ABS codes: C0265, C0241, C0251, C0252, & C0245. On this Silverado the EBCM is located under the driver’s side door on the frame rail. Some other GM vehicles, it is located in the engine bay and a lot easier to access.
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I just had an identical problem with a 2002 Suburban Z71. I had installed new hubs and bearings, as one was bad. One of the new ones had a broken sensor straight out of the box. I still got the ABS/brakelight issue though, after fixing these issues. I didn't know if the code was a hard one that had to be removed with a scanner, so I bought one. I cleared all the old ABS codes, then, cleaned up the ground contact point on the frame just under the divers door, like you showed here. THAT fixed it. No more ABS light, and I didn't have to remove the module like you did. I would suggest these steps first, PRIOR to taking the module down. As shown, it was unclear which step actually fixed yours. If you cleaned up the ground first, and tried that, you may not have had to spend the time with the module. Always, first things first. Keep it simple. Thanks for the video. Kind regards
Tighten the pinch bolt on the tool. No sticky electrical tape !
Thank's for making this !, with the help of your video I got 'er done.
For anyone thinking about doing this, It's not very hard if you have the right tools. You'll need 1/4" ratcheting box wrench with a 1/4" shank 1"- 1.5" T20(for the inside screws- the frames in the way) an extension for the 1" T20(for the outside screws) to get the case off the ABS control box attached to the frame, a 2" or longer T9, razor blade and popsicle sticks for getting the case apart and a 1/8" brass tube and the razor blade to clean out the gasket channel and silicone sealer and thermal compound to put the case back together. And a bright magnetized light to see what your doing!. The hardest part was getting the old gasket off. No need to lift the truck up.
Thanks for sharing tips! I'm glad you got 'er done!
Not the only vid I watched on this topic but wanted to throw some props. It works! Plan and simple. Btw 1/4 ratcheting wrench fits t20 bit. I had plenty of room to get ebcm out took less than 10min. 20 min to get sealant cut. 10 min to reflow ALL large pin through solder joints. I used flux to make sure solder joints could adhere to board with no issues. C0265 would throw immediately after clearing it, abs/brake lights would come on together sporadically but usually with my 20mi drive to work. Sometimes within 5 min, sometimes right before getting to work or home. I just drove around in and off highway for 40 minutes and still no warning lights and code never popped up again.
If you've exhausted all other tests and are going to replace ebcm DON'T! Buy a nice solder iron station(nice to have) and give this a try. These damn modules are not cheap, might as well give it a go.
Nice, I think you did it quicker than I did! But still working great for me as well. I've had the truck buried in mud and water quite a few times with no issues. I didn't think about using a ratcheting wrench...good tip for clearance!
Good explanations and points on removal and disassembly of the module. However, I wish you would have shown at least some step by step photos the areas you actually soldered and then the reassembly of the module - these were the crucial parts of the fix.
At 7:44 he points out the areas to be soldered and then said he is going to just go ahead and reflow all the posts that stick up off the board
Loved to have seen you soldering these up.
It's just a reflow. Make sure the iron is hot and clean. Little flux on the joints and a hold tip to side of pin close to the board. When solder goes liquid pull off and that's it on to the next on.
Just did mine, hardest part is cutting away the sealant.
@@airgunningcolorado78 same here, cutting that sealant away definitely requires patience.
it's been a couple years and my lights (ABS and brake) are starting to come on again, I'm so happy to find your video AGAIN , i like your style, I'll inspect a little closer this time and see if i can determine exactly which connections are the culprits? Thanks so much again. From Big Island Hawaii..by the way my truck has 235,000 miles and runs awesome, i see yours was around 222,000 also, GM did good on these.
Thanks! I hope you get it this time my friend!
I bet that board definitely had some cold solder joints on it. Glad it worked!!
I didn't see any obvious ones but I'm sure it did. I just reflowed every pin that was sticking through the board and hoped for the best. The lights were coming on every 2nd or 3rd time I drove the truck so apparently it worked since I haven't seen them return after a week of driving! Thanks for stopping by my friend!
I gotta do this to my trailblazer. Brake/abs light. When its super cold outside it will not come on (indicating bad solder joints since the board does not heat up in -15 degree weather causing the solder joints to seperate) When its hot out, almost instantly.
But dumb me put it off for too long and now its cold in MN, We have some decent weather so I might crawl under there tomorrow and try to pull it. I hope the t-20 are not rusted to hell or its waiting until next year.
I love your instructional video I'm going to try it on my 2001 Chevy Silverado
Hopefully it fixed you right up. Let me know!
I think that's what's wrong with my abs mine's a 96. Thanks for stopping by and checking out my channel I just came over and hit your big red button and the bell hope you have a great weekend
I greatly appreciate that Walker Outdoors! I subbed to your channel recently but haven't had a chance to watch too much yet. I don't think they started putting this particular EBCM module on until 99. You could always check your wheel speed sensors with a multimeter. That's the first place I'd look if your ABS light is on...or better yet use a scanner that can pull the ABS codes. I went this route for this truck because in doing my research on the error codes I pulled, it was on the list of most common problems for these year models. Cheers my friend!
So will this fix any of these codes ?? I have a code for C0245 and I just change the wheel speed sensors and cleared the codes and now ny brakes act funky until that codes comes back on
Thanks and love the video dawg but your truck was missing one item the other videos have,
MUD. lol.
My truck is currently giving a basket of these same codes, might try this out over the coming weekend. I'm currently at 264k miles and counting on my 2000 Y2K truck I call it.
Gen 4 327 baby, cant beat em.
Thanks again!
She is no stranger to mud for sure. Hope you got it fixed up!
Thank you for showing which ground is the one that goes bad
My pleasure, hope it helped!
I have a 2003 GMC Safari, AWD. First ABS problem I had was the front right speed sensor. Replaced it and the problem went away for a couple of years before returning. It was obvious then that the hub was going bad and affecting the sensor. Replaced the hub but sometimes an intermittent ABS/Brake light would appear. I wanted to check the solder joints but it was impossible to get the ABS module off without removing the entire unit. Rust was so bad the screws holding the electronic module were wasted. I gave up on that idea temporarily. Recently, a front brake line ruptured. Being in Ohio the rust is bad. Brake lines in very bad shape so I decided to replace them all. Since the lines were all removed I took the ABS module off the vehicle. When I got to the part of removing the small screws holding the top metal cover I discovered there were not any! Apparently they stopped installing the screws and just let the seal around the lid hold the cover on. I am in process of doing this work now. Have not actually removed the metal cover at the time of this comment. Will do so later today. By the way, GM has had solder joint problems before. Had a '98 Bravada. The windshield wiper module had the same problem. In that case the connector, which had rectangular pins were soldered to the PCB in large round holes flooded with solder. Over time the solder would develop cracks and become intermittent.
I have the exact problem with the wiper blades on the truck now, I just haven't taken time to tear into it. Also I have a bad solder joint on the odometer so it cuts out from time to time...again lazy :D Hope you get it fixed! I also have a 98 Bravada I had to retire to the tree line for good because the front suspension is shot and not worth fixing. Good luck!
Another fine fix. You get an A+
Woohoo I love A+'s!
How come you didn’t show how to fix the problem you made the video for
I agree that was like a good massage with no happy ending.
Which is the reason I came here???
He said he just reflowed them, which basically means he just heated up the solders again and let them cool.
Can you give us an idea what those pins are for, or did i miss that part?
I didn't map out what was what but the bigger ones are the ones that are more prone to cold solder joints and I believe most of those are ground pins.
I your keyswitch sticks a litte after you crank make the OBS lite to cone on till u turn it back after its cranked if your key switch is sticky
Thanks for the explanation video. My '01 Silverado just started doing this. I'll check the ground first though.
Hope it was that simple for you!
@@ChaosGarage Haven't had a chance to look at it yet. Maybe this next weekend. The truck has been in Arizona most of it's life so the ground will most likely be okay I'd imagine. Doesn't hurt to look though to make sure. Thanks
Hey random question. I bought a truck and it has no ebcm in it. Does it mess with anything other than the brake system or just the brake system
I believe just the ABS. I don't think the EBCM does anything else.
Thanks for the video, easy to do. Save a lot of $$$$. Good job dude!
Glad it helped!
This is a repair video without showing the actual repair.
Well he told you what to do. You just have to know how to use a soldering iron. Or buy a new one
Yeah..well done...no nonsense or blabbing....
Thanks...still working great
Wow now thats crazy. huge props to you brother for doing your homework. What an easy fix. Great Job!
hah thanks. This wasn't a hard fix but just took quite a while. It's important you go slow especially when cutting the silicone to get the cover off. It gets expensive real quick if you mess up the board! Thanks for checking it out!
I went through this process, touched up all the recommended pins, plus a few more. Issue returned immediately. Any ideas on where else to look? Wiring, etc.?
There is a ground wire bolted to the frame close to this abs module closer to under your foot area and there are two ground wires bolted to outside frame by the steering box area. Try taking those off and clean them. Good luck!
My code is C0299 on my 07 yukon do u think its still thr abs module or the brake booster itself. The message i get says service brakes soon . No abs light. Like ur knowledge and showing how to replace.
I would check first for a vacuum leak. The booster could be leaking in the diaphragm inside is damaged or the check valve is malfunctioning. It could be EBCM but I'd rule out vacuum first. The easiest and cheapest way is to spray your vacuum lines and connection points with some carb cleaner while it's running and listen for the rpm to change.
I just noticed mine only comes on while driving. No effecting on braking capabilities yet. I changed upper and lower rear control arms and that's when the light started happening.
Any wheel speed sensor related codes?
Idk why but mine doesn’t have any screws t 8 in mine and I’m having trouble getting it apart
Does it matter if i replace the thermal paste on the board and cover. Or should i just leave it alone. Any solder do?
You don't have to replace the paste but it definitely wouldn't hurt. I just use regular silver solder.
Yeah mine recently started doing that and I also skid a little bit in the brakes when slowing down to about around under 10mph. Calipers all good and functional, new rotors and pads all the way around got the EBCM code C0245 along with some rear wheel speed something or another. Annoying
Your wheel speed sensors will make the system act goofy for sure if they aren't reporting correctly to the computer.
Thanks man that was a very good video
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for posting
Have same issue came and go warning lights after I stop where I am going and start again they disappear,
Hope you get it fixed!
I would just remove the bulbs lol I will leave a like and continue watching and learn from you
Thanks! I'm likely to do that too instead of spending 300+ on a new one. But this took only a few hours and I already had all the stuff to do it so I figured why not? Truck was free and I've only got about $600 into it so far and most of the issues worked out so I'm miles ahead of the game! Thanks for stopping by!!!
Hey! I keep forgetting to ask if you've heard any rattling above your head. I left a stack of CDs in one of those compartments on the roof lol.
how do you remove the bulbs thank you
Someone broke off those bulbs and the check engine light in my suburban before I bought it
@@meekslt5 you have to remove the cluster, the bulbs are soldered in so you either melt the solder and pull them out, or break them off. I removed the "brake" light bulb from mine to pass inspection, but I plan to fix it right and solder the bulb back in, just didn't have time as I work a lot. I'll probably replace the whole unit, fix my old one, and keep it as a spare.
I have a 2000 GMC Safari with the same issue lights keep coming on, took it to get serviced was told that I need a new on and that a dealer would have to program it.
This might fix it and it's cheaper than buying a new one. I haven't had any more issues with the one in my truck.
I’m having trouble it says I need to change my brake control module which I did but it still says abs inop traction control off??
Abs and brake light coming on with my vehicle. I also had transmission shifting weird. Did you experience any issues with the transmission
I don't recall any transmission issue related to the EBCM module.
We have a stripped out thread on the abs unit but the module is still in good shape. Can you replace just the valve if the module is in good condition?
I suppose that you could, I've never had to take it apart that far.
Just wondering how would I get it out if the screws are rusted in place....any ideas to get it off.
Hmm you will need a good fitting bit and hope they don't round out. If they do then the next best thing I can think of is using a Dremel or something and slotting the head so you can use a flathead screwdriver. Good luck.
@@ChaosGarageI had to use a dremel to slot the end of what was left of a screw, rusted and head busted on one (4th distributor cap one in my 2003 GMC Sonoma 4.3l) to get the only screw holding the rotor button on. The other was rattling around under the button. Fun times! Thanks for the video!
When yours went bad did your truck all the sudden start idling rough also?
Just cleaned and reinstalled my grounds and that wasn't it.
I have mine out now with the top off to check the joints.
My 04 looks like a 2019 underneath and my torqs screws came out like they were just put in 6 months ago.
1 had a little dirt in it besides that they all came out easy.
My abs light never came on,my pedal went to the floor and service brake system came on.
2001 silverado I have the exact same codes. Abs/brake light are on. 4x4 doesn't work.
Sometimes brake light flashes when I start the truck and then stays on.
Anyone had the same issues fixed?
Is this module related to the 4x4 not working? Thank you! !
Sounds like it could be a weak solder joint in the module providing intermittent connectivity to the computer. The module doesn't have anything to do with the 4wd as far as I know. What does the truck do when you try to engage 4 high? (lights on the panel, sounds from under the truck, etc)
Very helpful, I have the same issues with my 2002 Suburban
It still amazes me what it takes today to change anything in a car and the European models are worse. drop half the motor and transfer case just to change spark plugs lol
Hah yeah some stuff is just a nightmare to work on...especially newer vehicles with all the computer controlled and smog stuff on them!
Very nice great job very helpful KOOL!
Great vid mate thanks . Explained very well too :) :)
Thank you my friend!
Very nice DIY. What did you use to seal up the ECBM after you finished the solder job?
Still working like a champ. Any decent sealant should work. I used some gasket shellac because that's all I had laying around at the time but I would have probably rather used regular RTV sealant. RTV, water pump, head gasket maker, or anything of the sort should work just fine to keep the water and moisture out so long as it doesn't contain any conductive metals.
Chaos Garage Good deal. Thank you sir!
PhilsLB7 m
Worked for me...thanks!
Spectacular! Great to hear!
Great Video, My ABS light and Break Lights come on at the same time off and on and i hear a clicking noise also by the break ? I want to try this Fix. I also have 1st gear thumping then I do a reset with battery and it goes away but comes back. Now the breaks lights and ABS start up t op it all off. 2008 silverado 4x4 any advice replaced speed sensor and throttle position sensor also no help.
It's been 6 months since I did this fix and I haven't had the lights come back on at all. I would say give it a shot and see if that clears up that problem and hopefully the other. I have noticed that I get a thump from the transfer case sometimes when I shift into drive or reverse. I read that there is a ring in the transfer case that sometimes smacks up against the inside of the case causing that noise. (and sometimes cracking or busting a hole in the case) Also sometimes I get a thump from lack of lubrication on the driveshaft yoke going into the transfer case. GM put out a service bulletin on it saying all you can do is lube it up with ATF and not grease it since it will get back through the transfer case seal and mess things up. Hope that info helps...let me know how it goes!!
Thanks for reply, my transmission slams into gear from 1st to 2nd but if I reset the battery it goes away leaving me to think its maybe a sensor or computer board issue not sure but driving me crazy . On the points that you did the solder on did you just reshape them at a lower point video did not show that part. Thanks again for all the help
I agree it must be a sensor since you reset the computer and it stops until it relearns. Might sound a little out there but I saw on the youtubes here that someone corrected that by replacing the throttle position sensor. Might be worth breaking out the meter to test. For the EBCM, get your iron nice and hot and just hit the top of the pin until the solder turns to liquid and let it harden back up. I didn't have to add any solder.
were yours a push fit or soldered the pins ? I have a 2005 volvo and it a lot of pins look like a push fit. Not sure if I should attempt to solder them.
The Silverado pins were all soldered. I'm not sure what to tell you to do about the Volvo EBCM.
@@ChaosGarage thank you for your reply. Obviously I forgot to proof read my own post.
😎
ISUZU 24 VOLT dtc C0241 abs light on plz
Hey! I keep forgetting to ask if you've heard any rattling above your head. I left a stack of CDs in one of those compartments on the roof lol.
Hah I cleaned everything on the inside really well except I haven't vacuumed it yet. Found the stack of CDs and most of em looked like the heat got to them. I also found a few keys if you are missing any. :)
Haha, if they're long funny looking keys hold onto them for me. If they're tiny keys they probably go to the tool box. I meant to ask if you got keys to that as well.
Got 1 tool box key and 2 ignition keys. The extra keys, I found 2 or 3 that look like house keys. I'll text you a picture of them when I go down to the shop later and I can mail them to you if you want me to.
Sounds good! They're probably my dirt bike ignition keys lol.
Yeah bleeding the air out of an ABS line can be a pain in the rear end. Well actually a
pain in the brakes. Nice fix. Hey whats the model of that OTC scanner?
The scanner is an OTC 3208 that I got from my local Summit Racing in a hurry... ruclips.net/video/VMMDnvZOR5M/видео.html
Bleeding air out of a ABS module is one of the easiest things to perform. If it's a pain in the ass for you you're doing something seriously wrong! And NO I don't use a scanner or even a TECH2 to do it!
This is irrelevant, but can anyone tell me what is the intro track used at the beginning of the video? I can't find any info on it myself, and it sounds dope! Sorta reminds me of old school Korn/Staind
The music for intro and outro was written and recorded by Travis who you see on the channel from time to time. I agree, sounds sweet! :D
Thanks dude
Happy to help
What silicone did u use to reseal it
Any silicone should work just fine.
What was with the Samsung galaxy on the dash like a tuner?? would like to know
It's the Torque application connected to an ODBLink MX via Bluetooth. Works as a code scanner and digital dash for whatever information it can read from the computer.
@@ChaosGarage oh alright cool thanks.
Going to look at doing this
I hope it helped!
My Silverado also had a wheel speed sensor out on the front driver side both open and short circuit codes
Did you do the soldier and the ground at the same time or did you try the ground cleaning and it did not fix it. Glad its fixed i imagine getting that ebcm was a bear to get out.
I did the ground the week prior but it didn't fix it. It's a tight fit on the trucks with the EBCM on the frame rail. You can get a 1/4" socket with a bit on the outside bolts by reaching over the frame rail but the inside bolts I had to hold the bit in there with my finger and use a 1/4" wrench. It took a while but with a little patience the job wasn't too bad and saves me $300+ or pulling apart the dash to remove the lights haha!
The wife tells me today that the brake light comes on every so often hahaha just one not both . Oh well i'm pulling all the bulbs then :)
Do you have a scanner that will do ABS codes?
Yes and i'm going to take a look today and see if there are any stored codes. That truck never stops so when I get a chance so today is a balmy 34 on your f scale ill check it out.
ick, I'd have to bundle up...that's shorts and t-shirt weather for you though isn't it?
Curious what you were using to display the info on your phone? Thank you.
I have an OBLink MX connected via Bluetooth to the Torque app.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!
You're VERY welcome! :D
Would this fix C0266 code on 2003 S-10
Did any of you have the problem where when coming to a stop the brake pedal will pulsate kinda pushing back.
I have code B0201
Also left speed sensor code
Which im fixing now
Any help much appreciated.
I think a malfunctioning speed sensor may be the cause of your pulsating pedal. I would definitely fix that first and go from there.
@ChaosGarage thank u sir. I did ficmx that. But it's not pulsating the exact same way alittle smoother. But it's still there. Code for wheel sensor is gone.
B0201 hasn't came back yet. Nor have I seen the abs light.
Progress! If you still feel pulsating in the pedal, maybe make sure you don't have a warped rotor or uneven brake pads. If you're not getting any codes, it seems like your ABS stuff is fine.
What scanner do you have?
OTC 3208 I got from Summit Racing - ruclips.net/video/VMMDnvZOR5M/видео.html
Jesus... I'm 5 hours in and can't get the 4th T20 bolt out. It appears to have been stripped. I can't fit a Dremel in there. going to try an Allen wrench (or something) else it looks like the whole damn unit (pump and module) will have to come out... meaning brake bleed and everything else. Mine is a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500. It's under the driver's side door and a MAJOR PITA to get to. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch but this seemed easy enough. Never thought getting it out would make me cuss so much. It's still not out!
WHY would they put that module in like that??? OMFG!!!! This is insane.
I hope you got it my friend. It is a pain in the butt!
@@ChaosGarage Thanks man. No luck. This has been a nightmare. 3 T20 bolts out. Took 4 hours just to get those 3 bolts. Who designed the placement of this thing????? The 4th bolt is rusted in I guess. I dremeled a slot after stripping the bolt head. Used some PB Blaster. Still didn't work. Ended up with a very small chunk/crack in the plastic housing. It's still there. It looks like I'm gonna have to pull the entire unit (pump and module) then have to bleed the brakes. This sucks so bad.
NIce fix!
Thank you friend. Wasn't too bad just takes some patience!
Just pulled my ABS Control Module out of my 02 Silverado and ya. I have to wear goggles to even look underneath the truck North East winters have left the poor thing with about 1/4 inch thick scale runs on everything underneath. Yes we are descaling and treating the underside but ouff.
Yuck! I hope you got it done!
Great video for DIY.
Thanks for sharing. Like #12
Thanks friend!
C0110
The modules are not that expensive you could get them less than $80 on If you buy just the module you will get it cheap and you can get a AC Delco but if you buy that module in pump that’s where it cost 600 $800-$1000 when you buy the whole assembly you don’t need the whole assembly or you take the GM and they will do the recall for freeDo the research online cut the middleman out and you won’t pay as much
My 2000 Silverado has been in the shop for over a month. Among the repairs being done is the ABS module/pump repair. Shop went through 2 bad junkyard pumps before attempting (and successfully) repairing the one on the truck. Now they tell me the ABS works incorrectly. Maybe a wheel speed sensor? I don't know but they're still wrenching away at it. I've lost faith in this garage and won't be using them ever again. Over a month for a few repairs
Dude it's your truck not them. They are chasing ghosts
Why not just get one from the junk yard ???
...bet your ground strap repair was ACTUALLY the issue, not the solder.
That's what I tried first but it didn't fix it.
The only thing I did not like was the heavy metal music noise. I almost didn't get past that. The video was very good though.
Thanks. Still working like a champ!
C
What good is it if he doesn't show what to soldier, waste of time!
Try 7:30ish...I did and explained the other pins I was going to hit while I was at it.
does this affect vehicle drivability? If it's just the dash lights, annoying I know, but who gives a f**k?
Yes if it isn't working correctly then your anti-lock brakes aren't working which could lead to locking up the tires if you slam on the brakes.
@@ChaosGarage 10 4
Intro is too long lol
Pesimo no se vio lo que le isistes
When you send it out for repair, here's how the pro's do it:
ruclips.net/video/_MDpzy0xC2I/видео.html
Please don't make any more videos.