[Q & A] 10 Minutes With A Tech - Session 4
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2024
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My RV Works, Inc. Certified Mobile RV Technician, Darren Koepp, answers your questions.
Session 4
Timestamps and topics covered in this session:
0:38 - Where does the ground wire get bonded within an RV?
2:58 - Where does the power come from to engage the emergency brake-away circuit?
5:11 - AC and DC circuits - what power source operates different appliances?
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Great job
Thank you for your videos. Replaced my rear brakes lights with LED. Replaced the rear driver's side first. Went back plug it into the truck everything worked. Replaced the other side. Everything worked but the clearance lights. Check power from the truck. OK, Ran a jumper wire from 12volt pin to clearance lights. Still no lights. Watch some of your videos and it clicked. I knew what happened. LED lights are sealed in plastic. NO GROUND. Looked for the ground wire and ran a jumper to the RV. TA!!DA!! We have lights. On a 2004 Mallard, the ground is in the rear brake lights. Keep up the videos. Thank You for steering the brain matter.
Great video! Great explanation in separation of ground and neutrals in the RV itself.
Thank you so much for your helpful videos! You are so kind to put these videos together to help fellow RVers. Thanks again!
The grounding explanation was perfect--thanks.
Awesome...love this forum!
Very good love your shows ❤
2:20. Wouldn't a pedestal at a campground with breakers in fact be a sub-panel to the main breaker panel for the rv park and as such the neutrals and the grounds are never bonded at a sub-panel? Only at the main panel(first point of disconnect) are they bonded. Love your channel. I would definitely call you to work on our RV, if I didn't live on the east coast. The trip charge would be a killer. Lol
Good job, again. Thanks
You are becoming quite the National Treasure! ...no "production value," just great information.
Very informative, thank-You
Thank you!
Enjoy your videos they've been extremely helpful. In the grounding question of this videoyou didn't explain the reason why you don't have your neutral and ground bonded inside the coach or RV? Would really appreciate a session answering that theory.
Thanks again Darren.
Hi Darren. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. Your videos are so helpful. I have a 2020 Grand Design XLS 22MLE, with a WFCO model WF-8735P electrical panel. The converter seems to be integrated into the panel. I’d like to upgrade to lithium batteries and a solar system next year. Do I need to upgrade the converter? If so, what is the best course of action when the converter is not separated from the panel?
Good information
Enjoy your videos. Question: How does one keep rodents out of the RV engine bay? Rodents chewed my wiring harness and replacement was a great expense. Thanx
Got a doozy for you, a 15 amp breaker has two outputs: an older converter/charger as well as 1 series of non-Gfci outlets. Loads didn’t exceed 15a combined anytime. Will work and occasionally trips with an electrical smell near one of the outlets. Outlets showed 1.2 ohms (hot to neutral)...almost dead short. Removing ONLY the hot lead of outlets from the breaker lug, it then tested open. So only the breaker or the hot from converter could have affected the reading. I’d love to hear your opinion
Here’s an easy one. How do you change the slide seal and which seal fits the RV. Mine: Heartland Cyclone CY 3611 JS.
I finally fully understand 12 volt grounding vs 120 volt grounding completely. Interiorblighting of the rv all ground to the house battery system.
The 12 volt house battery electrical system grounds to that system only. Not to the rv frame nor the 120 volt grounding.
So the only thing grounded to the frame would be the engine, starting battery and cab and driving lighting??? Is that correct?
I'm not sure that's correct: my original generator was definitely grounded to the chassis and my original converter (120 volt AC to 12 volt DC) was too. My 2 original House Batteries were also grounded to the chassis.
Good Morning. If you unplug the trailer and you put some sort of plug in the trailer plug to make the FLASHERS flash. Like if you are on the side of the road and need to leave the trailer there and take the truck or car for help. the FLASHERS will flash on and off for SAFETY. Jack
Enjoy your videos and explanations. Best out there. Really helps me understand my RV. Would like video on AC SoftStart installation. Every video from others that I see goes WAY too fast on connecting the wiring.
Other comment. Go slower and closer if possible when you show where to connect your meter to get readings. That's where I get lost.
DARREN CAN YOU SUGGEST A SILICON CALK TO USE AROUND THE EXTERIOR OF THE RV.
Is there a reset on the compressor on the Coleman mach ac for a fifth wheel
When disconnected from the pedestal you read the microwave and AC will still work and he's wondering how. Sounds like he has an inverter and doesn't know it because he didn't report an automatic switch to his generator, right?
wheres a good place to get a fuel tank for my toy hauler? and can I install a transfer switch to switch from generator to 120.
I would say if you pull your breakaway switch lanyard out and your trailer batteries are dead, you may also have pulled your tow vehicles power plug and you would have no power to the trailer brakes to stop the trailer, thinking of a 5th wheel.😂
When you take the batteries out what do you do with the loose wires? It is a permanent RV and hooked up to 110. Thanks!
Even if an RV is set up for permanent use, it was designed with many 12 volt DC circuits. Those circuits get their power from the battery. The converter's job is to convert the 120 VAC Shore power into 12 VDC and charge the battery. If you remove the battery you run the risk of burning up the converter since that converter will continue to take hits from DC current inrush. Managing this inrush current is the job of the battery.
We carry converters in our service trailer for this situation. Often we find that the battery is either removed or in so bad a shape that it's worthless and will not hold a charge. You can get a group 24 battery for around $80. But converters are at least twice that much.
So, please leave the battery in and keep that battery in good condition and you will have many years of a happy RV with the DC circuits.
Hello darren. I have a dometic rm 761
The 110 & the propane work fine but the 12v doesn't work I've watched a few of your videos done some tests & have a few questions
First is it a true 3 way ??
The wires going into the heater box has 48.8. Resistence. Is that good ?? or bad ?? The only other 2 wires i see are for the light ???
Slide adjust cable I keep having slack in same cable bottom keep tighten now top and bottom screw are way off but cable firm why the one cable keep loosened
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Where should I submit a question I have about repairing my aluminum frame in my 03 trail cruiser?
2 of the 3 cross members are cracked where they're bolted to the trailer frame (the 3rd one is missing). That causes the passenger rear side to sag. The back one passes the wheel well, turns right at the outside wall, and goes under the door, where it's cracked again at the bolt used to mount the step. wondering if a "splice" is possible. (cut out the bad and paste in the good)
@@qrevere5546 submitting here is just fine. We take all of the questions here and put them in a database so we can track them and address them in videos. - Tricia, My RV Works
@@triciamyrvworks8263 thanks. Might as well update: replaced all of the aluminum framing. Lucky for me, no cabinets or walls were attached from outside. Used 1 1/2" Al tubes 1/16" thick. Note: they're twice as strong (or more) as same thickness stuff they replaced. Spoke with lady at dealership and thought just that and 3/4" ply on top would be ok. I chose non pressure treated tongue and groove. I used brackets rather than welding. I put a coat of thompson's on both sides. I used flashing tape on all the edges. I stuck foam board in between the plywood and underlayment just for a little insulaution (I live in SE US). Took WAY longer than I thought it would.
@@qrevere5546 Glad you got it done! Thanks for the update.
personally i vote for the "stored electrons"
Question,
I have (2004) a Norcold 1200 series refrigerator. I’ve watched all your videos about them.
I have,
Installed baffles
Replaced and cleaned burner
Verified gas pressure (manometer)
Replaced regulator
Cleaned valve behind refrigerator
A/C side is starting to get weak on cooling
Flame is amazing (loud and clean)
Changed thermal switch on condenser to a 115’ on instead of the 130’ from factory
Fans are running great.
Pulled the baffle from inside burner tube.
I’m about ready to throw this refrigerator away and go with a residential if I can’t get it to get colder than 40.1 degrees on a setting of 9.
Any help would be great.
@Kirk Walters same here. I’m going to do a swap to the 12v DC compressor. JC Refrigeration sells the kit so basically you swap out the back of the fridge fins and all to the upgrade. Cost about $700 bucks. Runs on 12v only no propane which is fine by me. Residential fridges are to heavy and that particular compressor is not designed to be bouncing down the road so a RV tech told me.
JahRootsRadio after looking at the DC unit it would be $1300 with shipping
The baffle needs to be in the chimney to slow down the heat from the flame. Without the baffle the LPG side will not cool at all. Any ambient outside temp above 90 degrees Fahrenheit and all gas absorbtion refrigerators have a difficult time cooling.
Russ Campbell I removed and “replaced” the baffle. Made sure it was clean. Sorry I didn’t mention that.
Kirk Walters ok the price I quoted was for my model my bad.
Wrong about ground ALL new or rewire has to be 4 wire system, az with RV
sorry just hit the wrong thumb.
stop supporting this guy to live off your money crazy
I realize your main business is fixing RV's. But I hate the question and an
Answer segments of your RUclips. I know you probably get bombarded with "my Rv does this " questions. But I watch because I like to learn hands on. All your fix it videos are great. But these suck.
I disagree... I think 10 minutes of questions is great. Many other RUclipsrs do it. Keep up the good work.
Easy solution- skip the "10 minutes of questions" videos but let Darren enjoy making them and the rest of us enjoy watching them. Everyone is happy and no flames required. I'm just sayin'
Some of these questions don't have a "hands on" answer, they require explanation instead, even if simply for the fact that the questioner is thousands of miles away from this technician so how is he going to show you "hands on" how to fix that problem?
I believe he was asking were the power comes from for the breakaway switch ,the power comes from the rv for the breakaway switch ,if the rv battery is dead you will not have breakaway brakes,the rv disconnects from the tow vehicle so it needs the battery charged in the rv.
I've been an electronics technician/engineer for 43 years . I've spent more hours in classes, seminars, lectures, and workshops, labs, and real life situations, etc, than most people with doctorate degrees and let me tell you he is doing exactly the right thing with hands on balanced with theory explanations.
They go hand in hands - on ( pun intended)
If I lost my 12volts to my Rv refrigerator at terminal where do you think I lost power