If it was me, I would skip the bodywork and put another motor in and drive and enjoy it for what it is. It’s a nice car but like you said, you won’t get your money back. Enjoy it for what it is. Be happy with what you’ve got. It’s the secret to car ownership, and the secret to life if you want to get a bit deeper.
Don't blame you at all, have fun with it & whatever you decide I know it'll be done right & hope you film it's journey for us. Two👍🏻👍🏻for doing what you want with YOUR car & standing your ground.
I'm in Illinois and have a C8OE .030" short block with a tired but functional performance cam, new rings (Total Seal moly), Clevite rods and mains on a .010" early balance crank, Dura Bond cam bearings, brass freeze plugs, factory spec replacement oil pump with front sump pickup and pan that I'm willing to donate. It has junk smog heads on it right now with truck headers. I built it for my Fairmont and put 1500 easy break in miles on it before I had to pull it because I blew the 351W in my 78 Thunderbird and needed something right then. Broke my back and sold the Bird and Fairmont. They took the Bird and never came back for the Fairmont or the engine. Both have sat for 15 years since.
These first-generation electronic feedback setups were known to run terribly rich when they started to have problems hence the washed-out cylinders and the scoring. The trolls need to mind their own business don"t worry about what we're doing to our pesonel vehicles. Good video sir!
i’m sure you have heard this numerous times, but a coyote swap if i recall has never been done on a thunderbird and would be very interesting! Man to see it get down the track with that power would be Amazing!!!!!!
In the’90s I had a’80 cougar and put a 5.0 HO with a T-5 . Had my fun with it sold it and a week later the guy blew the rear end out of it. Had original 7.5 rear end😃. Fox body cars have a lot of potential. Following your project. Suggestion 7.3 Godzilla 😃. Might be to pricey though, but just suggesting.
That evil Fram filter caused all of that! But seriously, it's a cool car and now you get to choose the motor. Maybe a 351W stroker, preferably on one of those tricky 2.75" bearing blocks.
Ha you just answered a huge question of mine. I just picked up a 4 eye project fox that was a 3.8 car but had a 302 swap with 3 belts. I could not figure out where it came from until I saw you car. Thanks for the epiphany, haha. Following to see what you do incase its what I want to do as well, haha
I was working for Ford back when that was made. Ford was having a lot of issues with sludge in the 5.0 engines. I think that they attributed it to the PCV system. I’ve pulled the intakes off of 5.0 engines and the sludge would be level with the bottom of the lower intake manifold.
I think them have plastic on the timing sprockets on those years. Good call dude! Not built real strong back then. I had two 1985 ltds with 302 in them both had to be rebuilt at one point. Then those tbi leak around the throttle plate too when they get old. Rebuild kit was around 500 dollars last time I looked.
I vote for 351 , not sure if Cleveland or Windsor , but i have seen both make great power, with aftermarket Carb or F.I, dual plane intake, aluminum heads, streetable cam, and strong bottom end. But then again, who doesn't like a big block ! :)
The 1st thing you said was right on. Get a 351 V8 and put it in. It's bigger than the 5.0 it came with, and it's not the biggest engine either. It's in between and it's perfect. No '85 Thunderbird had a 351 V8, so you already made it better. My '85 Monte Carlo SS had a 305, went to a 355 built, and you couldn't beat that car. It had the Grand National transmission 200 4R Bow Tie Overdrive Level 2.. You have to have a great transmission, and you'll practically own the road. Just don't get a ticket. Make sure it's 0 to 60 in 5.8 seconds and you'll enjoy it for 7 years , no problems ever.@!!.
Big block 427 being an actual FE based 427? That would be AWESOME. A stroked 351 Windsor to 427 would be easier and less expensive. 302 based build with the underhood Edelbrock dual 4 bbl set up would be amazing.
I had a light blue one in High-school. Mine was also a 5.0 but it was weak and not the H.O. It needed way more power. I say put a serious crate motor with a supercharger in it and a Ford Motorsport limited slip in the rear. No idea if the stock AOD trans can take it or not but those cars were very underpowered. Mine was an 86 and I owned it in 88/89.
I like what you are doing with it because at the end of the day its not some crazy rare car that's worth a fortune just have fun with it and let it eat!
I have learned over the years with my Mustang to keep it simple and enjoy it me personally I would drop a Ford Explorer 5.0 motor in it throw a turbo onto it and enjoy my 95 Mustang is a 302 turbo with a Holley Terminator X and that thing is so fun to drive and it's simple to build. Boost is a amazing feeling and it sounds the car makes when boosting it will put a smile on anyone's face
Many modern ford fans dont know about the 351 Cleveland . With its 4bbl closed chamber heads it was capable of atmospheric power numbers. Intake and exh ports bigger than the 454 chevy. High rpm motor for sure.
Thats a beautiful bird...just subd when I saw this. Keep it ! Every damn car built today looks like porky pig on wheels ! This is real class and style. Super easy to fix if its not rusted....I know had multiples of these Foxes includind 88 turbo 5 sp. Still have an 88 5.0L factory car in driveway awaiting ( everything actually ) after tons of reseach over years if your going to drive it just drop in an Explorer V8...I have one ready for my bird. Super cheap easy to squeeze 300 horses with hardy any $$$$ spent. Fits without chopping anything up. Good find....looking forward to this.
If the TBird/Cougar/Mark body is anything like it's Fox body cousin you should consider a set of good subframe connectors and/or even a roll cage. I've seen even mildly modded Mustangs will twist when run hard causing windshield leaks, misaligned doors, and rear hatches refusing to seal. There's also the hat channel where the seat rail bolts to the body ripping out which is very annoying.
Go fuel injected, 4.6 , a 5.4 would just be cool. I imagine a pushrod engine would be a more straightforward swap but I think s modular motor would be cool
strip it down, get the block and the crank machined, throw a mild cam and a set of explorer heads on it, some headers, and block off/delete the egr and pcv system, maybe a few other minor things, you'd have a real strong running car for not a lot of $$. I helped my buddy do the same thing to his fox body back in high school, woke it right up, car was pretty quick and he did it on a high school kid budget over the course of a year or so. My buddies and I also did a few half assed backyard/farm/plow/beater truck rebuilds on 302's and 3.0L straight sixes in pickup trucks, couple of em without even pulling the motors, hit em lightly with a cylinder hone on a drill from underneath, new rings, new bearings, seals, oil pump, and send it lol one of em is still running on a local farm and I'm 33 now.
Fuel injected with a Holley Terminator X for $995 comes with the Standalone ECU wire harness and a 3.5 touchscreen you cannot go wrong. Not to mention the build series should be good for RUclips
I might be wrong…., you did say you were looking for a project car. I watched this one a couple of times . The condition of that engine is actually impressive. The first time we herd it run , I could hear some problems . Sucks but maybe it could be a good donor block idk. For the sake of fan boying , Twin turbo 5 oh something or maybe a 93 octane Godzilla 😉
Damn! I loved that car. I want you to show me why it failed yoúr inspection. It was running nice.Old School cleanup tricks could have solved a lot.An engine swap? Stick a 351Windsor in it. Will go like hell.
Yeah, agree on the need for a new motor. I would recommend a 351W with SEFI if you wanted some more power but still wanted a good reliable daily driver. Or you could go with a 5.0 HO motor with SEFI from a late 80s or early 90s Mustang. Either one would bolt right in. Any word on that transmission yet? You could also upgrade the rear axle to 8.8" and throw in some 3.73s with LSD.
Guess I lucked out not buying that thing. I’m just a regular guy that does his own maintenance on car, nowhere near as qualified as you are to do any major repairs or upgrades. Hopefully you’ll be able to make it a good runner without spending too much. Can’t wait to see what it turns into.
Be a good candidate for a pre 18 F-150 coyote swap. Lots around for decent money. Good luck at whatever you decide. Car looks good. Maybe the guy put a junkyard engine in it?
I'm in the same boat. I bought a 1970 mustang couple a few years ago. Paid 3500, it had a 69 front clip. Dumped a ton into it. Wanted a 408 windsor settled for stock bottom end and gt40 heads. Don't paint it , Once that's done you'll be afraid to drive it lol
Truth of the 85 T-Bird is it was a transitional year and was not too hot when new. Turbo 4 cylinder T-Bird made more power. All in all it's super solid car and it's great looking!
2 options if it was me, 306 the stock block.. aluminum heads, good cam, headers. 10:1 . Good for 320 rwhp. . Wrecked coyote truck engine, mustang GT or cobra jet intake, headers, E85 400+ rwhp depending on gen 1, 2 or 3.
There's nothing cheap about a coyote swap. Better off doing a Windsor build. Coyotes aren't for everyone. With a good Windsor build 400 hp and above can be easily had.
Hi Ive been watching your channel for while now. You are lucky to find a T-Bird in that shape where you live. Just my .02 here and no disrespect intended. That 5.0 litre your friend has in that Explorer...must be an Eddie Bauer....I think the intake manifold interchanges>>? We used to swap out engines in Fords back in the 90s and the wrecker would send an carb engine and we would swap out the intake for the fuel injection..
Personally dude, I'd see if I could find a 2.3t out of a mustang svo or turbo coupe, ditch the stock top mount intercooler if present and replace with a front mount intercooler, replace the stock air filer box with a cone filter, 3inch exhaust from the turbo back(2.5 if you want to do a Y pipe setup), 255lph fuel pump in the tank, maybe an adjustable fuel regulator for a little extra fuel pressure, manual boost controller and crank it up to at least 20-23 PSI if it has a garrett t3 or get a cheap t3/t4 hybrid, get the intakes gutted and port the heads. you'd probably be right around 300 HP, maybe more. a lot of that stuff can be had for pretty decent prices. plus you have the option of going nuts in the future and upgrading the internals and everything else to wind up with like a 700-1000HP 4 cylinder thunderbird lmfao(no joke though).
Yeah I'm not going to do chemicals in this motor I thought about it but I just chose against it I just want to build this one for fun now that I know the stock Motor is not that healthy
Thats beyond chemical treatment. I've torn motors apart that have serious build up and the amount of material you'd be knocking loose for one, is enough to fill top to bottom several large oil filters with just the sludge. The cylinders being scored up means it won't have compression and won't run real well anyways. I tore apart a customer gen 3 6.0 ls for a complete rebuild and used 50 gallons, thats right 50 gallons of cleaning solution to clean all the parts from the bare block to the heads done bare. Granted its all shiny and nice now... but that just gives you an idea of how much crap can be on the inside and outside of leaking dirty old 280k mile... neglected engines. Thankfully the cylinder bores were fine. But, a bearing was starting to go, so I caught it just in time before it destroyed the crank and sent metal everywhere. Why not buy a new engine? The guy wanted to keep the same motor, wanted it 100% fresh and knows me and my work. Wanted upgrades as well and I was happy to do it. Last ls I built, the guy was surprised with how fast his yukon was especially compared to stock and got compliments on it every time he went somewhere. Anyways, chem treatments have their place, and this is one instance where it ain't it. That block would need a full tear down, and to be bored out for one. All the bearings replaced, crank might be chewed up so it would have to be replaced or machined, all the lifters r2 cam r2 pushrods r2 rockers r2 oil pump r2 etc. At that point, you got thousands in parts, I promise you that.
I was looking at the car on OfferUp. I’m glad you bought it so I can see the rebuild process. Did you do a compression and leak down test of the cylinders?
Motor that isn’t worth rebuilding because of long scrapes in the bore only after 100k miles…filter? The orange fram…🤔 I’m only giving ya a hard time. Lol. Keep up the video’s. It will be cool to watch the progress of you putting in a performance v8. 😎
Summit racing has a nice 408 stroke long block to go. Make light high horse. Go getter. Good luck. I am dealing with a 91 5.0. In my f150 from similar symptoms. Got a ho 5.0 ford motorsports kit gonna go in
Even a factory rollor 351w late model like 93-94ish f250s and such. Do a simple build carb manifold little more cam even run a hei conversion unit to keep ignition simple. That's if you want to keep it simple
I agree on putting a new drivetrain in it but why put all the money into paint and body for a track only car? Looking forward to the build and the transformation of the t-bird.
I like ur 5.0 transplant idea from the explorer or the 351W. Would u do the cobra jet 427-8? Whatever you decide will be bad a$s!!! Would you bring it up here to MI for the Woodward Dream Cruise when it is done?
Everything depends on the Beast you envision and want to build FORD has very few engines as venerable as the 5.0, with parts and performance options plentiful Power can be had with the right combinations, without the cost or weight of the big block, with fitment guaranteed. Just an upgrade to sequential injection would be a huge improvement and there are plenty setups in the salvage yards if budget minded What some of those guys used to do with 5.0 Stangs back in the late 80’s was borderline ridiculous 351 close second (venerable) Which is worse, no options or weighing them? Good luck
@@benjaminkline4855 they didn't all get the F4TE blocks. And not all of those F4TE blocks got roller cams some got flat tappets. Fast way to determine is to yank the distributor and see what style gear it has. Cast gear is a flat tappet.
sucks that the engine is a goner. Easy enough to drop in another small block though! That explorer 5.0 you said in the last video might be a good candidate.
If you did a coyote swap you'd never get that money back selling the car BUT you could always recoup some of your money from selling the coyote and all the foxbody swap components. There is a huge market for all the foxbody performance parts and the coyote swap stuff. There is not a huge market for some big block/foxbody stuff.
I dunno, yea, your gong to get some sludging in a 35yr old engine but it seemed to run strong to me. Do a proper compression check and if it's OK them screw the cylinder walls, that's just how it broke itself in. Have the heads re-done, (about $500) drop pan and check for any silicon issues there, replace rod bearing while the engine is still in the car, refill with a 25% MMO mix, run for 500 miles drain and refill. Sure, an engine swap would give you a lot more HP, but you can still have fun with it's present engine IMHO. Good luck either way.
Now that you know put a decent 5.0 or whatever you want that will fit. You can build it however you want seeing how they are fairly common, just not that nice body wise now.
Sad to see, but that changes everything. I would have liked to see it restored, more or less. On the other hand: The drive train has nothing to do with looks... You'll do what is best - it is your car, so it's your decision. Maybe the option your colleague offered is worth thinking about after all.
I have an idea for you if you're into diesel's at all check out a channel called Westen Champlin...he took a smashed up mustang dropped a 12 valve cummins in it on his channel...pretty sweet and a Tbird with a 12 valve might be pretty dam cool as well. As for the haters...f'em your car your money not theirs...hell its your channel man we're all just along for the ride..keep up the good work man.👍
Rich, it's your car. Build it as YOU see fit. The only thing I would have advised is you should have kept it a running car while your accumulated the parts your going to need. If you don't have whatever, and have to order it it means downtime in the build. I've seen a build done both ways. Having everything on hand speeds up the build. I'm not throwing down on you at all it's just the father in me giving advice I've given my own Son.
Having built a few race cars, no, you don't get your money back and that's not why I built them. I raced. Straight line 1/4 mile. I don't know what you're going to do with the car, but build it so things don't snap, blowup or break all the time. Hard to dial a car in when it keeps blowing up. But you know that. Peace!
You can use the $700 Exploder 5.0L short block if you want. Don't have to use everything with the PCM. Maybe talk the guy down much lower if you're not going to use the transmission and fuel injection. 🤷🏻♂️ Could get you on the road for a while while you're building a better engine, don't have to worry about the spark plugs if you're not going to change them before the next engine is ready. 🤔 How long do you want it parked (or how long can it sit in the back lot)? While you're working on a plan, making videos, then you'll have to wait for the engine or parts to build yourself to be delivered.
@@FordBossMe You'll need the SCT programing for PATS, change the transmission output tail housing, then figure out headers if you're going to keep it long term. And lots of wiring. Not sure how much unnecessary body control wiring is mixed with the engine controls. I would junk the harness and start fresh when I was doing it, harness is designed for assembly line if the vehicle not retrofitting into other vehicles as a stand alone power train.
Sorry I'm a little impatient to wait till the end of the video I might forget my question why don't you do the Marvel Mystery Oil thing that you showed us and there might be a trick out there to clean out the coolant passages I just don't know of any tricks to flush the cooling system having a garden hose into lower radiator hose and flushing it that way also I have recently had amazing luck with this product called engine restore there's no negative reviews out there I've used it on three of the five vehicles that I'm currently driving the other two vehicles I haven't drove since last year it works it raised his compression 10 psi per cylinder you could drive that thing until you rebuild a junkyard motor and have it ready to drop in
393 is really easy, 3.85 crankshaft, stock 5.0L pistons, don't have to clearance the block for the rods, leave the bore alone. Just need that 3.85 crankshaft.
@@barryaiello3127 Some 10 or so years ago Chevrolet created exactly four hundred and twenty seven of the classic big block from the original castings to be sold for $30,000 each. After they were gone the castings were to be destroyed. I had to read the ad a few times to let it sink in...
What's your emotional state when dealing with things like this? Are you mad that the motor is in the shape that it is and the seller didn't say anything or do you figure it's par for the course in the used market?
@@FordBossMe It wasn't until recently that the "word on the street" recognized that heavily stroked engines aren't going to shake themselves to death, detonate under load, grind pistons through the side of the cylinder, etc. So basically you could go with the short deck windsor and larger than 347 if you wanted and probably be just fine. Anyone selling a 351W block these days is prone to "know what they have"...
Ford Thunderbird Boss Edition? If you can modernize the old bird then DO IT !! Just so you can use the damn thing for the next 20years . And YES put a nice lumpy low end stroked out loud af street an meet Ford Boss Me mobile!! 😉😎
351W, you would be limited to what cam and heads you could run anyways since it's a cast flat-top piston and it looks to me like it's a non-roller block.
Bummer that the engine is toast. But, you have to measure what it's worth and what it would cost to fix that motor AND make it what you want. The car just doesn't have the value, monetary or "family value", to justify that. Someday, that car will be a collectable. Not today, though. Maybe mothball the motor for the future if you have the room if someone in the future wants to "factory fresh" it.
Uh oh, just got a spendy habit..... could get a remanufactured block for around 1500, but it doesn't look like many existing parts on your rig would be worth slapping on a nice block so that could get steep quick! I read that ad and when it said bring a trailer j.i.c., I said not for me!
After seeing the motor I've seen worse I would get a couple cans of brake clean and from what I'm saying a couple I mean probably six spray down the valve cylinder heads with the brake clean try to get it from what cleaned up if you can take the oil pan off I think the subframe might be in the way but you could definitely pick up at pick up to I've always told people drive it until you have your spare motor ready to drop in that way there's no downtime
I TOTALLY understand and get it Rich..STILL look forward to how this build is gonna turn out!!!!
If it was me, I would skip the bodywork and put another motor in and drive and enjoy it for what it is. It’s a nice car but like you said, you won’t get your money back. Enjoy it for what it is. Be happy with what you’ve got. It’s the secret to car ownership, and the secret to life if you want to get a bit deeper.
Sad the see the motor in that rough of shape, but I’m excited to see where you take this build!
Don't blame you at all, have fun with it & whatever you decide I know it'll be done right & hope you film it's journey for us. Two👍🏻👍🏻for doing what you want with YOUR car & standing your ground.
Hell yeah, I’ve always loved tbirds. I’ve had 92, 95 super coupe, and 97 4.6. Can’t wait to you do work with this beauty!
I'm in Illinois and have a C8OE .030" short block with a tired but functional performance cam, new rings (Total Seal moly), Clevite rods and mains on a .010" early balance crank, Dura Bond cam bearings, brass freeze plugs, factory spec replacement oil pump with front sump pickup and pan that I'm willing to donate. It has junk smog heads on it right now with truck headers. I built it for my Fairmont and put 1500 easy break in miles on it before I had to pull it because I blew the 351W in my 78 Thunderbird and needed something right then. Broke my back and sold the Bird and Fairmont. They took the Bird and never came back for the Fairmont or the engine. Both have sat for 15 years since.
When can I come pick it up
I can have it ready by next weekend.
Excited to see how you tackle this build and watch it’s progress. If it was me I think I’d manual swap it, and go “pro touring” style.
These first-generation electronic feedback setups were known to run terribly rich when they started to have problems hence the washed-out cylinders and the scoring.
The trolls need to mind their own business don"t worry about what we're doing to our pesonel vehicles. Good video sir!
i’m sure you have heard this numerous times, but a coyote swap if i recall has never been done on a thunderbird and would be very interesting! Man to see it get down the track with that power would be Amazing!!!!!!
It has been done, dude said it was a pitb
In the’90s I had a’80 cougar and put a 5.0 HO with a T-5 . Had my fun with it sold it and a week later the guy blew the rear end out of it. Had original 7.5 rear end😃. Fox body cars have a lot of potential. Following your project. Suggestion 7.3 Godzilla 😃. Might be to pricey though, but just suggesting.
That evil Fram filter caused all of that! But seriously, it's a cool car and now you get to choose the motor. Maybe a 351W stroker, preferably on one of those tricky 2.75" bearing blocks.
Ha you just answered a huge question of mine. I just picked up a 4 eye project fox that was a 3.8 car but had a 302 swap with 3 belts. I could not figure out where it came from until I saw you car. Thanks for the epiphany, haha. Following to see what you do incase its what I want to do as well, haha
This rebuild from the ground up series fenna be 🔥🔥🔥
I would try a short block or long block before I rebuild it. You are going to keep the car for 10 years. Don’t worry about the cost.
I was working for Ford back when that was made. Ford was having a lot of issues with sludge in the 5.0 engines. I think that they attributed it to the PCV system. I’ve pulled the intakes off of 5.0 engines and the sludge would be level with the bottom of the lower intake manifold.
I can’t wait to see how this car turns out when your done building it, it’s gonna kick ass!
I think them have plastic on the timing sprockets on those years. Good call dude! Not built real strong back then. I had two 1985 ltds with 302 in them both had to be rebuilt at one point. Then those tbi leak around the throttle plate too when they get old. Rebuild kit was around 500 dollars last time I looked.
I vote for 351 , not sure if Cleveland or Windsor , but i have seen both make great power, with aftermarket Carb or F.I, dual plane intake, aluminum heads, streetable cam, and strong bottom end. But then again, who doesn't like a big block ! :)
Cant wait to see what you decide!
The 1st thing you said was right on. Get a 351 V8 and put it in. It's bigger than the 5.0 it came with, and it's not the biggest engine either. It's in between and it's perfect. No '85 Thunderbird had a 351 V8, so you already made it better. My '85 Monte Carlo SS had a 305, went to a 355 built, and you couldn't beat that car. It had the Grand National transmission 200 4R Bow Tie Overdrive Level 2.. You have to have a great transmission, and you'll practically own the road. Just don't get a ticket. Make sure it's 0 to 60 in 5.8 seconds and you'll enjoy it for 7 years , no problems ever.@!!.
Big block 427 being an actual FE based 427? That would be AWESOME. A stroked 351 Windsor to 427 would be easier and less expensive. 302 based build with the underhood Edelbrock dual 4 bbl set up would be amazing.
I had a light blue one in High-school. Mine was also a 5.0 but it was weak and not the H.O. It needed way more power. I say put a serious crate motor with a supercharger in it and a Ford Motorsport limited slip in the rear. No idea if the stock AOD trans can take it or not but those cars were very underpowered. Mine was an 86 and I owned it in 88/89.
Id keep it regardless of what you do to it because it's just an awesome classic. Yeah I agree a larger engine would make it even more cooler.
I like what you are doing with it because at the end of the day its not some crazy rare car that's worth a fortune just have fun with it and let it eat!
I have learned over the years with my Mustang to keep it simple and enjoy it me personally I would drop a Ford Explorer 5.0 motor in it throw a turbo onto it and enjoy my 95 Mustang is a 302 turbo with a Holley Terminator X and that thing is so fun to drive and it's simple to build. Boost is a amazing feeling and it sounds the car makes when boosting it will put a smile on anyone's face
Many modern ford fans dont know about the 351 Cleveland . With its 4bbl closed chamber heads it was capable of atmospheric power numbers. Intake and exh ports bigger than the 454 chevy. High rpm motor for sure.
Thats a beautiful bird...just subd when I saw this. Keep it ! Every damn car built today looks like porky pig on wheels ! This is real class and style. Super easy to fix if its not rusted....I know had multiples of these Foxes includind 88 turbo 5 sp. Still have an 88 5.0L factory car in driveway awaiting ( everything actually ) after tons of reseach over years if your going to drive it just drop in an Explorer V8...I have one ready for my bird. Super cheap easy to squeeze 300 horses with hardy any $$$$ spent. Fits without chopping anything up. Good find....looking forward to this.
If the TBird/Cougar/Mark body is anything like it's Fox body cousin you should consider a set of good subframe connectors and/or even a roll cage. I've seen even mildly modded Mustangs will twist when run hard causing windshield leaks, misaligned doors, and rear hatches refusing to seal. There's also the hat channel where the seat rail bolts to the body ripping out which is very annoying.
Go fuel injected, 4.6 , a 5.4 would just be cool. I imagine a pushrod engine would be a more straightforward swap but I think s modular motor would be cool
strip it down, get the block and the crank machined, throw a mild cam and a set of explorer heads on it, some headers, and block off/delete the egr and pcv system, maybe a few other minor things, you'd have a real strong running car for not a lot of $$. I helped my buddy do the same thing to his fox body back in high school, woke it right up, car was pretty quick and he did it on a high school kid budget over the course of a year or so. My buddies and I also did a few half assed backyard/farm/plow/beater truck rebuilds on 302's and 3.0L straight sixes in pickup trucks, couple of em without even pulling the motors, hit em lightly with a cylinder hone on a drill from underneath, new rings, new bearings, seals, oil pump, and send it lol one of em is still running on a local farm and I'm 33 now.
Fuel injected with a Holley Terminator X for $995 comes with the Standalone ECU wire harness and a 3.5 touchscreen you cannot go wrong. Not to mention the build series should be good for RUclips
I might be wrong…., you did say you were looking for a project car.
I watched this one a couple of times . The condition of that engine is actually impressive. The first time we herd it run , I could hear some problems . Sucks but maybe it could be a good donor block idk. For the sake of fan boying ,
Twin turbo 5 oh something or maybe a 93 octane Godzilla 😉
What a shame, even the best technicians can make mistakes when buying cars. Looking forward to the next chapter 🇳🇿
Damn! I loved that car. I want you to show me why it failed yoúr inspection. It was running nice.Old School cleanup tricks could have solved a lot.An engine swap? Stick a 351Windsor in it. Will go like hell.
Restomod is the name of the game. You already have a good base to start with and to me that is a plus.
Yeah, agree on the need for a new motor. I would recommend a 351W with SEFI if you wanted some more power but still wanted a good reliable daily driver. Or you could go with a 5.0 HO motor with SEFI from a late 80s or early 90s Mustang. Either one would bolt right in. Any word on that transmission yet? You could also upgrade the rear axle to 8.8" and throw in some 3.73s with LSD.
Absolutely Loved My '85 turbo coup.
Guess I lucked out not buying that thing. I’m just a regular guy that does his own maintenance on car, nowhere near as qualified as you are to do any major repairs or upgrades. Hopefully you’ll be able to make it a good runner without spending too much. Can’t wait to see what it turns into.
Be a good candidate for a pre 18 F-150 coyote swap. Lots around for decent money. Good luck at whatever you decide. Car looks good. Maybe the guy put a junkyard engine in it?
Sucks that the stock engine is gone. What do you think caused the damage? I'm looking forward to the new build though.
I'm in the same boat. I bought a 1970 mustang couple a few years ago. Paid 3500, it had a 69 front clip. Dumped a ton into it. Wanted a 408 windsor settled for stock bottom end and gt40 heads. Don't paint it , Once that's done you'll be afraid to drive it lol
A sleeper track car would be fun
Well, it's a hell of a rolling chassis you've got there.
Truth of the 85 T-Bird is it was a transitional year and was not too hot when new. Turbo 4 cylinder T-Bird made more power. All in all it's super solid car and it's great looking!
2 options if it was me, 306 the stock block.. aluminum heads, good cam, headers. 10:1 . Good for 320 rwhp. . Wrecked coyote truck engine, mustang GT or cobra jet intake, headers, E85 400+ rwhp depending on gen 1, 2 or 3.
Or donor ecoboost mustang with bigger turbo. Plenty of get up and go on a lighter car, then jump on the highway and get 30mpg
There's nothing cheap about a coyote swap. Better off doing a Windsor build. Coyotes aren't for everyone. With a good Windsor build 400 hp and above can be easily had.
Hi Ive been watching your channel for while now. You are lucky to find a T-Bird in that shape where you live. Just my .02 here and no disrespect intended. That 5.0 litre your friend has in that Explorer...must be an Eddie Bauer....I think the intake manifold interchanges>>? We used to swap out engines in Fords back in the 90s and the wrecker would send an carb engine and we would swap out the intake for the fuel injection..
Personally dude, I'd see if I could find a 2.3t out of a mustang svo or turbo coupe, ditch the stock top mount intercooler if present and replace with a front mount intercooler, replace the stock air filer box with a cone filter, 3inch exhaust from the turbo back(2.5 if you want to do a Y pipe setup), 255lph fuel pump in the tank, maybe an adjustable fuel regulator for a little extra fuel pressure, manual boost controller and crank it up to at least 20-23 PSI if it has a garrett t3 or get a cheap t3/t4 hybrid, get the intakes gutted and port the heads. you'd probably be right around 300 HP, maybe more. a lot of that stuff can be had for pretty decent prices. plus you have the option of going nuts in the future and upgrading the internals and everything else to wind up with like a 700-1000HP 4 cylinder thunderbird lmfao(no joke though).
Also paint it yourself. Get you a HVLP paint gun. They are pretty easy to use, and spray awesomely
I’d do another sludge removal series before tossing the motor.
Yeah I'm not going to do chemicals in this motor I thought about it but I just chose against it I just want to build this one for fun now that I know the stock Motor is not that healthy
Missed opportunity.
I have other plans I can't have a bunch of vehicles sitting around just for Chemical Testing purposes for the RUclips channel
If I had my own property yes but I'm at the dealership so I have to be mindful of that
Thats beyond chemical treatment. I've torn motors apart that have serious build up and the amount of material you'd be knocking loose for one, is enough to fill top to bottom several large oil filters with just the sludge.
The cylinders being scored up means it won't have compression and won't run real well anyways.
I tore apart a customer gen 3 6.0 ls for a complete rebuild and used 50 gallons, thats right 50 gallons of cleaning solution to clean all the parts from the bare block to the heads done bare. Granted its all shiny and nice now... but that just gives you an idea of how much crap can be on the inside and outside of leaking dirty old 280k mile... neglected engines.
Thankfully the cylinder bores were fine. But, a bearing was starting to go, so I caught it just in time before it destroyed the crank and sent metal everywhere.
Why not buy a new engine?
The guy wanted to keep the same motor, wanted it 100% fresh and knows me and my work. Wanted upgrades as well and I was happy to do it. Last ls I built, the guy was surprised with how fast his yukon was especially compared to stock and got compliments on it every time he went somewhere. Anyways, chem treatments have their place, and this is one instance where it ain't it. That block would need a full tear down, and to be bored out for one. All the bearings replaced, crank might be chewed up so it would have to be replaced or machined, all the lifters r2 cam r2 pushrods r2 rockers r2 oil pump r2 etc. At that point, you got thousands in parts, I promise you that.
Can’t wait to see this project
I was looking at the car on OfferUp. I’m glad you bought it so I can see the rebuild process. Did you do a compression and leak down test of the cylinders?
No, I literally just started ripping into it I knew it was going to need work
Hell yeah bro. Build that shit the way you want to. It will be awesome. 👍
The journey is the destination. Even with learning newly bought classic cars.
If I remember right, Kasse used to offer a swap kit for a 385 series conversion.
You should have seen my engine when I took it apart...it had a dead bird inside...$4500 later....runs great
Motor that isn’t worth rebuilding because of long scrapes in the bore only after 100k miles…filter? The orange fram…🤔
I’m only giving ya a hard time. Lol. Keep up the video’s. It will be cool to watch the progress of you putting in a performance v8. 😎
I had a 85 I wrecked back in 2002. I haven’t been able to find one since. I mean I found them BUT always get left on read when I inquired about them.
Man that blows it sounded good.
Too much scoring inside the engine it wasn't worth using again
Summit racing has a nice 408 stroke long block to go. Make light high horse. Go getter. Good luck. I am dealing with a 91 5.0. In my f150 from similar symptoms. Got a ho 5.0 ford motorsports kit gonna go in
Even a factory rollor 351w late model like 93-94ish f250s and such. Do a simple build carb manifold little more cam even run a hei conversion unit to keep ignition simple. That's if you want to keep it simple
I agree on putting a new drivetrain in it but why put all the money into paint and body for a track only car? Looking forward to the build and the transformation of the t-bird.
I like ur 5.0 transplant idea from the explorer or the 351W. Would u do the cobra jet 427-8? Whatever you decide will be bad a$s!!! Would you bring it up here to MI for the Woodward Dream Cruise when it is done?
Everything depends on the Beast you envision and want to build
FORD has very few engines as venerable as the 5.0, with parts and performance options plentiful
Power can be had with the right combinations, without the cost or weight of the big block, with fitment guaranteed.
Just an upgrade to sequential injection would be a huge improvement and there are plenty setups in the salvage yards if budget minded
What some of those guys used to do with 5.0 Stangs back in the late 80’s was borderline ridiculous
351 close second (venerable)
Which is worse, no options or weighing them?
Good luck
With all the flat tappet failures in recent years I'd suggest a F4TE 351 engine block. 94-97 trucks and vans got a roller cam 351.
Just pulled a flat tappet E7 out of a 96 f250.
@@benjaminkline4855 they didn't all get the F4TE blocks. And not all of those F4TE blocks got roller cams some got flat tappets. Fast way to determine is to yank the distributor and see what style gear it has. Cast gear is a flat tappet.
429 cobra jet big block! With a c6 , and a 9"
460 BIG BLOCK.
I might know of a 429 or 460. It ran last time it was in a car 20 yrs ago but was tired and as far as I know it’s stock but buildable.
sucks that the engine is a goner. Easy enough to drop in another small block though! That explorer 5.0 you said in the last video might be a good candidate.
If you did a coyote swap you'd never get that money back selling the car BUT you could always recoup some of your money from selling the coyote and all the foxbody swap components. There is a huge market for all the foxbody performance parts and the coyote swap stuff. There is not a huge market for some big block/foxbody stuff.
I dunno, yea, your gong to get some sludging in a 35yr old engine but it seemed to run strong to me. Do a proper compression check and if it's OK them screw the cylinder walls, that's just how it broke itself in. Have the heads re-done, (about $500) drop pan and check for any silicon issues there, replace rod bearing while the engine is still in the car, refill with a 25% MMO mix, run for 500 miles drain and refill. Sure, an engine swap would give you a lot more HP, but you can still have fun with it's present engine IMHO. Good luck either way.
Put a sick motor in it and have fun with it. I wouldn’t even paint it. Just a good buff and wax
Now that you know put a decent 5.0 or whatever you want that will fit. You can build it however you want seeing how they are fairly common, just not that nice body wise now.
It would be a true monster for a 5.0 Coyote supercharged. Food for thought.
Yeah but I was looking at another guy's RUclips channel and the amount of work that has to go into that I don't know that I want to put into this car
Sounds like you're going to take your coworker up on his offer of the 5.0 drivetrain from his Explorer?
I haven't decided that yet I don't know if I'm going to
@@FordBossMe I apologize for speaking too soon sir!! But the $700 deal as a HELL of a deal regardless!!!
$700 for a really good condition Roller Cam/Lifters, Fuel Injection 5.0 is a good Deal with the Wiring Harness, Don't know about the Transmission tho.
@@FordBossMe at least use the long block to get back on the road. Talk him under $500 if it's just a temporary solution for the Thunderbird.
The 1985 Mercury Cougar is still my favorite owned car .. color black
Sad to see, but that changes everything.
I would have liked to see it restored, more or less.
On the other hand: The drive train has nothing to do with looks...
You'll do what is best - it is your car, so it's your decision.
Maybe the option your colleague offered is worth thinking about after all.
I’m not a mechanic. Is that what a blown head gasket is? You mentioned there was coolant in the oil? Love your show.
I have an idea for you if you're into diesel's at all check out a channel called Westen Champlin...he took a smashed up mustang dropped a 12 valve cummins in it on his channel...pretty sweet and a Tbird with a 12 valve might be pretty dam cool as well. As for the haters...f'em your car your money not theirs...hell its your channel man we're all just along for the ride..keep up the good work man.👍
36 years -- even a Little Old Lady car is going to need some rebuilding.
Rich, it's your car. Build it as YOU see fit. The only thing I would have advised is you should have kept it a running car while your accumulated the parts your going to need. If you don't have whatever, and have to order it it means downtime in the build. I've seen a build done both ways. Having everything on hand speeds up the build. I'm not throwing down on you at all it's just the father in me giving advice I've given my own Son.
The vehicle being down is not an issue I have two other vehicles and this is just a project car so it doesn't really matter to me if it's down
Having built a few race cars, no, you don't get your money back and that's not why I built them. I raced. Straight line 1/4 mile. I don't know what you're going to do with the car, but build it so things don't snap, blowup or break all the time. Hard to dial a car in when it keeps blowing up. But you know that. Peace!
You can use the $700 Exploder 5.0L short block if you want. Don't have to use everything with the PCM. Maybe talk the guy down much lower if you're not going to use the transmission and fuel injection. 🤷🏻♂️
Could get you on the road for a while while you're building a better engine, don't have to worry about the spark plugs if you're not going to change them before the next engine is ready. 🤔
How long do you want it parked (or how long can it sit in the back lot)? While you're working on a plan, making videos, then you'll have to wait for the engine or parts to build yourself to be delivered.
I was looking at the car yesterday and when I was pulling everything apart it does have a feline and a return line going back to the fuel tank
@@FordBossMe You'll need the SCT programing for PATS, change the transmission output tail housing, then figure out headers if you're going to keep it long term. And lots of wiring. Not sure how much unnecessary body control wiring is mixed with the engine controls. I would junk the harness and start fresh when I was doing it, harness is designed for assembly line if the vehicle not retrofitting into other vehicles as a stand alone power train.
Get' it dude!
Sorry I'm a little impatient to wait till the end of the video I might forget my question why don't you do the Marvel Mystery Oil thing that you showed us and there might be a trick out there to clean out the coolant passages I just don't know of any tricks to flush the cooling system having a garden hose into lower radiator hose and flushing it that way also I have recently had amazing luck with this product called engine restore there's no negative reviews out there I've used it on three of the five vehicles that I'm currently driving the other two vehicles I haven't drove since last year it works it raised his compression 10 psi per cylinder you could drive that thing until you rebuild a junkyard motor and have it ready to drop in
Did you buy it as a runner? Or didn't care the condition of the engine? Did you suspect it was going to possibly have a junk motor?
I suspected the motor would have issues
looks like thunderbird needs some emergency thundercat treatment!
if all fails can always turn it into an electric car project!
That is a damn good idea!
351windsor is the way to go boar and stroke it to a 427na that would b sick!
393 is really easy, 3.85 crankshaft, stock 5.0L pistons, don't have to clearance the block for the rods, leave the bore alone. Just need that 3.85 crankshaft.
@Samson Holdsworth Stick a GM engine in a Ford product?, hell no!.
@@barryaiello3127 Ford made a 427..
@@chuckymurlo5654 Your correct, so did GM, I should have realized that although Ford 427's are kinda rare these days.
@@barryaiello3127 Some 10 or so years ago Chevrolet created exactly four hundred and twenty seven of the classic big block from the original castings to be sold for $30,000 each. After they were gone the castings were to be destroyed. I had to read the ad a few times to let it sink in...
👍
I vote for the 347 stroker. But hey it's your dough and work so it is your choice.
What's your emotional state when dealing with things like this? Are you mad that the motor is in the shape that it is and the seller didn't say anything or do you figure it's par for the course in the used market?
Roush small block 427! But it’s a lot of money. Or think about your buddies explorer..$700 is a steal!
I was kinda wondering when I seen the old style valvecovers . Who else was in there.. just enough to get by to sell it. Nice car though
HP upgrades are good. Coyote engine swap? Stock is boring (sometimes).
No I'm thinking something more like a 347 stroker or a 351 Windsor bored out to a 427
@@FordBossMe It wasn't until recently that the "word on the street" recognized that heavily stroked engines aren't going to shake themselves to death, detonate under load, grind pistons through the side of the cylinder, etc. So basically you could go with the short deck windsor and larger than 347 if you wanted and probably be just fine. Anyone selling a 351W block these days is prone to "know what they have"...
Ford Thunderbird Boss Edition?
If you can modernize the old bird then DO IT !! Just so you can use the damn thing for the next 20years . And YES put a nice lumpy low end stroked out loud af street an meet Ford Boss Me mobile!! 😉😎
351W, you would be limited to what cam and heads you could run anyways since it's a cast flat-top piston and it looks to me like it's a non-roller block.
351-408 boss would be killer
Bummer that the engine is toast. But, you have to measure what it's worth and what it would cost to fix that motor AND make it what you want. The car just doesn't have the value, monetary or "family value", to justify that. Someday, that car will be a collectable. Not today, though. Maybe mothball the motor for the future if you have the room if someone in the future wants to "factory fresh" it.
How about a nasty big turbo cosworth variant engine like a 2.0l or 2.3l ? Then use megasquirt to run it....
Because I'm not a small displacement kind of guy it doesn't fit my fancy
Uh oh, just got a spendy habit..... could get a remanufactured block for around 1500, but it doesn't look like many existing parts on your rig would be worth slapping on a nice block so that could get steep quick! I read that ad and when it said bring a trailer j.i.c., I said not for me!
What you have said about your car is all true.
After seeing the motor I've seen worse I would get a couple cans of brake clean and from what I'm saying a couple I mean probably six spray down the valve cylinder heads with the brake clean try to get it from what cleaned up if you can take the oil pan off I think the subframe might be in the way but you could definitely pick up at pick up to I've always told people drive it until you have your spare motor ready to drop in that way there's no downtime
The more cubes the better if your looking for power.