I have been a one person design, grading and construction business for 56 yrs now. This is how I grade using a manual grading machine. A Dario. I have all my notes etc. from fashion design schools, LA Trade Tech and HCC College (Hawaii) and just needed a refresher. You are extraordinarily talented and just a wonderful person. Your voice is more then pleasant and your simplicity is a key to life. I can’t thank you enough ❤ I am brainfarting over a raglan slv grading. Do you have a tutorial, my notes are ????? I know I can figure it out but I want someone else’s input. Your so amazing and really get it that I had to subscribe ❤ thank you 🌴
Thanks for the lovely comment. Send me an email at contactcatherinesews@gmail.com so I can share a sketch with you. I haven’t graded a raglan in years, but I think I still know how!
This makes so much sense! I don’t think it’s ever been explained like this to me. I’ve saved this so that I can reference it. This RUclips makes everything so easy. No one wants to help me in real time in the middle of the night!
I would need to rewatch this a few times. But, honestly this is so much easier then cutting the pattern in strips and splitting it 1/4” here, and 1/2” there.
Thank you very much I took pattern grading in fashion college in my 3rd year. But I really didn't understand it then and I had a terrible time with fractions back then. over 20 years ago. grading and alterations have been a real challenge to me through the years in designing and making clothing for people. this video that you did here finally makes me understand this now. the classes dealt with pattern blocks where they split the pattern into blocks. and it was hard for me to understand at that time. I do have a 2 year associates degree in fashion design. but never worked in the industries of fashion designing. just making clothing for local clients.
This information is excellent. So glad I found you. I will be watching more so I can get a better understanding about the MATH part of it. You made it easier to get a better comprehension of understanding the increasing and decreasing of pattern sizes.
I’ve seen grading done a few different ways but never like this, wow. Can we see how you would grade a skirt? Hmm I’m guessing the skirt would be super easy to do. Would love to see more grading videos. Is there a name for this particular grading? I am enjoying all your videos. Thank you.
Great comment! I was thinking about doing another grading video because I wanted to make sure the process was clear enough. I could definitely do a skirt! Coming up soon!
You are just rocking these videos. So many new videos coming out. Thank you. I teach the kids how to do this, I will have them watch this video now. Thank you so much. 👍💜
Oh, you're braver than I am! I sometimes do grading for my students but I haven't tried teaching them the process. It's so technical and tedious, and they're just itching to get onto the fun stuff. Thanks for watching as always (I know that no one will watch this video purely for entertainment, lol.)
Also, thank you so much for this video, I've been searching for videos on how to grade and I couldn't find any, you're literally a life saver, thank you !!🥺🥰
You did a good job of simplifying the process. People just have to remember to do it accurately for each style they have to know what standard sizes to use. There are a lot of standard sizes out there. Some things like darts are more complex to grade. If you look at a multi-sized patterns you will see this.
Great suggestion! That was one of my first jobs in the fashion industry - to take a trenchcoat pattern down to a 4 and up to a 16. It's a lot of work to do it by hand, but I will try to make a video like that for you.
This is brilliant. Thank you. I'm making a jacket from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 6, and I know right now the pattern will be too small for me, but the patterns are taken from extant garments, so there is only one size provided. This will help me to get the pattern closer to my size before making my first mockup. THANKS!
You are such a pleasure to listen to and watch. I forgot how to grade and your tutorial brought it all back. I know it's going to be complicated because it's a jacket with many pieces 😣but 🤷🏼♀️. Thank you so much
only had to watch about 20 times, but I get it! The math was the hardest part to get all the different directions calculated correctly.. Where do I put the pattern marks though to be sure they are in the correct position with the increased scaling I just did?
Thank you for the video. It is fantastic!! It is sort of a mix of a Ouija board and an Etch-A-Sketch. It will be fun to try it out. I may use metric based on multiples of 3.
You are amazing! Thank you so much! My daughter wants a 60's men's double breasted jacket and trying to figure out how to size it down has been a nightmare. This will help me a ton! If you have any advice for changes from a man's pattern to a women's I would really appreciate it. The bust is the only worry I have.
Thank you for explaining the process so clearly and concisely! I have a question: I’m grading up an old pattern for a onesie from M (adult 10/12) to fit a much larger lady. I have basically got to add 16 inches circumference. I don’t need to lengthen the pattern as she is quite short but I’m not absolutely sure how to grade the pattern for the crotch. I will do a toile, as the fabric is expensive, but can I grade up in one go, or should I grade up one size at a time? Thanks
@@antoniaclarke830 you can do it in one go. You’d be adding 4” to each quadrant to get your 16” total. If you can get a thigh measurement then you’d know how much you need to extend at the crotch/top of the leg.
@@puledressdesigns It's not an easy thing to understand, so I'm glad you'r feeling like you've got it now. At some point I'll make another video that explains a bit more about grading, but until then, just let me know if you have any questions.
@@CatherineSews I’ve always wanted to learn how to grade. I have this ruler like paper that grades but I wanted to learn how to manually grade with just a ruler, pencil and a sheet of paper. This video clarified everything. I read a comment about the dart so I will go back and read up on that. Would love to see more videos on grading though. Thank you again.
firstly, thank you soo much Cathrine for this Video. i am new to pattern grading and found this super helpful. I am a bit confused though, was hoping you can clarify this for me. You said you are going up by 2" all together and dividing it into 4 quadrants which would be 1/2" total in each piece. In the example you gave for the top and shorts with 4 pieces, the amount you're adding is coming up to 1" which multiplied by 4 pieces is double what you are suggesting. so instead of going up by 2" i end up going up by 4. Could you provide some clarification, it would be so helpful, Thank youu!!!!!!!
Hi Katherine, Could this method of pattern grading be used for stretch fabric. I want to use my woven Block. I don't think fabric with only a 10% stretch would matter much. What kind of formula is used for Stretch? I only saw one Pattern Maker use a formula and didn't explain it. She was extremely slim using a minimal stretch fabric. Formula 1.1 divided by 4. I worked the math out for my bust without ease. The calculation only reduced my bust circumference by less than 10%. .932 . The end of Summer sales are on and I would love to buy some stretch fabric. If you know how the percentages work would you pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee teach us? Biggest thanks sweet Lady! p.s. Maybe I don't know what I am doing at all? I just looked at a Note from 2020 saying that unless a fabric has more than 60% Stretch, it isn't enough to use for a pattern with negative ease. HONK!
Oh I have a Pajamas Short Pattern where the front is fine the length is fine but the back piece is 2 inches wider than necessary So I’m just guessing I sliced the pattern piece down the middle move it in 2 inches and then true up the other lines like the waistline and the hemline?
@@moniquedespins3574 each pattern company works out their own system, so when you’re grading a pattern, you can just decide how much you want to make it bigger and go from there.
Hi i noticed, in the beginning on your small sketches you said you wanted the front bodice to be 1/2 inch longer. But on the vertical lines in the neckline and sleeve you put 1/8, then on the vertical side seam you put 3/8. That doesn’t equal 1/2 inch if you add the side seam and the vertical arm hole line. I’m confused. Then on the center front vertical line you put /8. I don’t understand what you did there. Please help. I hope you answer 🙏🏾
I just rewatched that section and either I forgot to write the 3 in the 3/8 on the centre front edge as I was saying it, or it’s just hard to see! (On second look, I think you’re right! I said 3/8 but I only wrote /8!) So yes, it should say 3/8 on the centre front to balance the 3/8 on the side seam. Add the 1/8 in the neck/shoulder. 1:8 + 3/8 = 4/8 = 1/2. Sorry for any confusion!
@@CatherineSews thank you for responding :) i got confused because the horizontal lines at the top of the bodice all equal 1/2 inch to balance the bottom. So i was expecting the left side vertical lines to equal 1/2 and the right side to equal 1/2. I was doing 3/8+1/8=7/16 of an inch. Because i wasn’t getting 1/2 inch on the vertical like i got on the horizontal i got lost.
Great question! You want to keep the dart directed to the bust point, so the safest route is to split your grading increment and put half before the dart and half after.
What irks me is if I find something that fits my middle, the neckline is like a dinnerplate. What's with explanding the neckline on women's wear???! Men are the ones whose necks get larger, not women.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m a guy and I typically draft WWII era/vintage style clothing. I learned a lot from this. Glad to see a basic classic type of grading. Thank you!
Do you sell the drafts you make? Do you have a website?
@ no on both accounts, unfortunately. I’m a little old fashioned in that way. lol
I have been a one person design, grading and construction business for 56 yrs now. This is how I grade using a manual grading machine. A Dario.
I have all my notes etc. from fashion design schools, LA Trade Tech and HCC College (Hawaii) and just needed a refresher.
You are extraordinarily talented and just a wonderful person. Your voice is more then pleasant and your simplicity is a key to life. I can’t thank you enough ❤
I am brainfarting over a raglan slv grading. Do you have a tutorial, my notes are ????? I know I can figure it out but I want someone else’s input.
Your so amazing and really get it that I had to subscribe ❤ thank you 🌴
Thanks for the lovely comment. Send me an email at contactcatherinesews@gmail.com so I can share a sketch with you. I haven’t graded a raglan in years, but I think I still know how!
This refresher is great. I still have my 30 year old grading ruler. My notes are golden. The raglan would be great to see.😊
More pattern grading videos please! For knits! Advanced Pattern grading! This is so good!!
Wow this is really helpful! This makes way more sense than any other video I’ve watched about grading! Thank you!!
I may have to watch this 10 times till I really get it....
I'm lost already...
This makes so much sense! I don’t think it’s ever been explained like this to me. I’ve saved this so that I can reference it. This RUclips makes everything so easy. No one wants to help me in real time in the middle of the night!
Single most relaxing video I've watched in a while, and helpful. 😁
I would need to rewatch this a few times. But, honestly this is so much easier then cutting the pattern in strips and splitting it 1/4” here, and 1/2” there.
I think I’ll have to see this ten more times to be able to do it myself but thank you! You are great! Best whishes from Sarah in Sweden 😅
This was so helpful! I used to sort of wing it...Catherine, you're an exeptional teacher!
so clever! i will have to watch again a few times to get it, but so much easier than measuring bit by bit all the way round
I have been trying to learn this for years
Thanks Catherine . I am going to have to watch this a couple of times to get my head round it, but its definitely going to be so useful.
This was very helpful. Especially seeing the directions in which the pattern moves. Thanks !
Each time you did it I understood a little bit more. Still need to understand more.
Thank you very much I took pattern grading in fashion college in my 3rd year. But I really didn't understand it then and I had a terrible time with fractions back then. over 20 years ago. grading and alterations have been a real challenge to me through the years in designing and making clothing for people. this video that you did here finally makes me understand this now. the classes dealt with pattern blocks where they split the pattern into blocks. and it was hard for me to understand at that time.
I do have a 2 year associates degree in fashion design. but never worked in the industries of fashion designing. just making clothing for local clients.
Your comment makes my day! I'm beyond happy if my tutorial helps you understand something that you learned 20 years ago! Cheers!
my story exactly.. :)
Loved this video. I've never seen this done before, but it makes perfect sense. Thanks!
That's great to hear! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
This information is excellent. So glad I found you. I will be watching more so I can get a better understanding about the MATH part of it. You made it easier to get a better comprehension of understanding the increasing and decreasing of pattern sizes.
I’ve seen grading done a few different ways but never like this, wow. Can we see how you would grade a skirt? Hmm I’m guessing the skirt would be super easy to do. Would love to see more grading videos. Is there a name for this particular grading? I am enjoying all your videos. Thank you.
Great comment! I was thinking about doing another grading video because I wanted to make sure the process was clear enough. I could definitely do a skirt! Coming up soon!
You are just rocking these videos. So many new videos coming out. Thank you. I teach the kids how to do this, I will have them watch this video now. Thank you so much. 👍💜
Oh, you're braver than I am! I sometimes do grading for my students but I haven't tried teaching them the process. It's so technical and tedious, and they're just itching to get onto the fun stuff. Thanks for watching as always (I know that no one will watch this video purely for entertainment, lol.)
@@CatherineSews It’s funny, I grade with mine and you drape. 😁
Back to support you, Sister!
Thank you my friend!
Yes, more grading videos 🙏
Thank you, such a cool technique. I would love to sew vintage patterns I find in thrift shops but they are rarely the right size. Now I can fly :)
This video is phenomenal!!!! My mind is blownnnn
Also, thank you so much for this video, I've been searching for videos on how to grade and I couldn't find any, you're literally a life saver, thank you !!🥺🥰
So glad to hear this! Thanks for finding my channel!!
That’s very clear, helpful directions. Thanks!
Loved this video, I found your channel a couple of weeks ago and have watched several. I subscribed as soon as I watched the first video.
That's great to.hear, Margarett! So happy to have you on board!
You did a good job of simplifying the process. People just have to remember to do it accurately for each style they have to know what standard sizes to use. There are a lot of standard sizes out there. Some things like darts are more complex to grade. If you look at a multi-sized patterns you will see this.
TFS! Could you please teach us how to grade a jacket with collar, cuff, pocket, Etc.? Thanks! Very much appreciated!
Great suggestion! That was one of my first jobs in the fashion industry - to take a trenchcoat pattern down to a 4 and up to a 16. It's a lot of work to do it by hand, but I will try to make a video like that for you.
@@CatherineSews Thanks so much! 🙏
Your videos are so helpful. Thank you!
Oh, thanks for giving this older video some love! Grading is such a useful skill. I use it all the time for my classes.
Wow, that is amazing. Once I understood the concept, that makes total sense. Thank you.
So interesting...more of this grading classes will be appreciated plsssse!
So glad you liked this one! I'll do more grading videos sometime soon!
@@CatherineSews Thanks for your teaching! Please could you make one grading a pattern with dart? Very much appreciated!
This is brilliant. Thank you. I'm making a jacket from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 6, and I know right now the pattern will be too small for me, but the patterns are taken from extant garments, so there is only one size provided. This will help me to get the pattern closer to my size before making my first mockup. THANKS!
You are such a pleasure to listen to and watch. I forgot how to grade and your tutorial brought it all back. I know it's going to be complicated because it's a jacket with many pieces 😣but 🤷🏼♀️. Thank you so much
This was SO clear and helpful!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Do you draft your own Lutterloh system? The miniature design that you can then enlarge to your own measurement? I would love to see such a video.
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the super thanks! Greatly appreciated!
Please can you show how to grade a princess bodice up to a larger size. Thank you
Ok, I will add that to my To Do list! Thanks for watching.
Very helpful video, thank you. Happy new year, sending positive thoughts!
only had to watch about 20 times, but I get it! The math was the hardest part to get all the different directions calculated correctly.. Where do I put the pattern marks though to be sure they are in the correct position with the increased scaling I just did?
Very helpful
Glad to hear that. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thank you for the video. It is fantastic!! It is sort of a mix of a Ouija board and an Etch-A-Sketch. It will be fun to try it out. I may use metric based on multiples of 3.
You are amazing! Thank you so much! My daughter wants a 60's men's double breasted jacket and trying to figure out how to size it down has been a nightmare. This will help me a ton! If you have any advice for changes from a man's pattern to a women's I would really appreciate it. The bust is the only worry I have.
Thank you for this amazing video. What about grading for a certain individual, like a custom dress specifically for that person?
So clear!
Now I finally understand, thank you!
Thank you for this! What paper are you using and where do you get it?
Very interesting, thanks for sharing 😀
Hi, great video - is the front t-shirt the exact same increment as the back?
Thank you for explaining the process so clearly and concisely!
I have a question:
I’m grading up an old pattern for a onesie from M (adult 10/12) to fit a much larger lady. I have basically got to add 16 inches circumference. I don’t need to lengthen the pattern as she is quite short but I’m not absolutely sure how to grade the pattern for the crotch. I will do a toile, as the fabric is expensive, but can I grade up in one go, or should I grade up one size at a time? Thanks
@@antoniaclarke830 you can do it in one go. You’d be adding 4” to each quadrant to get your 16” total. If you can get a thigh measurement then you’d know how much you need to extend at the crotch/top of the leg.
How do you know how to balance or where exactly to grade? Are these grading places the same everywhere?
I got it. Thank you for this video.
@@puledressdesigns It's not an easy thing to understand, so I'm glad you'r feeling like you've got it now. At some point I'll make another video that explains a bit more about grading, but until then, just let me know if you have any questions.
@@CatherineSews I’ve always wanted to learn how to grade. I have this ruler like paper that grades but I wanted to learn how to manually grade with just a ruler, pencil and a sheet of paper. This video clarified everything. I read a comment about the dart so I will go back and read up on that. Would love to see more videos on grading though. Thank you again.
firstly, thank you soo much Cathrine for this Video. i am new to pattern grading and found this super helpful.
I am a bit confused though, was hoping you can clarify this for me. You said you are going up by 2" all together and dividing it into 4 quadrants which would be 1/2" total in each piece. In the example you gave for the top and shorts with 4 pieces, the amount you're adding is coming up to 1" which multiplied by 4 pieces is double what you are suggesting. so instead of going up by 2" i end up going up by 4.
Could you provide some clarification, it would be so helpful, Thank youu!!!!!!!
Good catch, Zara! After I made this video, I realized my error, so I posted a correction. You'll find the link in the description box.
What books would you recommend to learn more about this topic?
Excellent question. I don't think I've ever seen a book on it!
You mentioned having the bodice a half inch longer, if you were grading to a 1” instead, would you have just made it a quarter inch longer?
Thank you, for the great video. How would you grade a pattern with darts?I.e bust, waist and shoulder darts?
Great video! Just wanted to know if going from a LG to xl would it be 4 in all around?
Hi Katherine, Could this method of pattern grading be used for stretch fabric. I want to use my woven Block.
I don't think fabric with only a 10% stretch would matter much. What kind of formula is used for Stretch?
I only saw one Pattern Maker use a formula and didn't explain it. She was extremely slim using a minimal stretch fabric.
Formula 1.1 divided by 4. I worked the math out for my bust without ease. The calculation only reduced my bust circumference
by less than 10%. .932 .
The end of Summer sales are on and I would love to buy some stretch fabric. If you know how the percentages work
would you pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee teach us?
Biggest thanks sweet Lady!
p.s. Maybe I don't know what I am doing at all? I just looked at a Note from 2020 saying that unless a fabric has
more than 60% Stretch, it isn't enough to use for a pattern with negative ease. HONK!
Yes, you can use the same method with knits.
@@CatherineSews Great! Please help us deal with the Formulas! Thanks Catherine!
Oh I have a Pajamas Short Pattern where the front is fine the length is fine but the back piece is 2 inches wider than necessary
So I’m just guessing I sliced the pattern piece down the middle move it in 2 inches and then true up the other lines like the waistline and the hemline?
Hey mam, if there is dart how much you move ?
great video !!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
so simple , thx
I got how to figure out how much you want to grade. But drawing the lines kinda confused me. How do you know what each line is for?
I just don't quite understand how the body measurements for the different sizes works. If it's arbitrary, how does that work?
@@moniquedespins3574 each pattern company works out their own system, so when you’re grading a pattern, you can just decide how much you want to make it bigger and go from there.
@@CatherineSews thanks for the reply!
In your sketch why didn't you add 1/4 of an inch to each side of the sleeve?
You’re amazing ❤
Hi i noticed, in the beginning on your small sketches you said you wanted the front bodice to be 1/2 inch longer. But on the vertical lines in the neckline and sleeve you put 1/8, then on the vertical side seam you put 3/8. That doesn’t equal 1/2 inch if you add the side seam and the vertical arm hole line. I’m confused. Then on the center front vertical line you put /8. I don’t understand what you did there. Please help. I hope you answer 🙏🏾
I just rewatched that section and either I forgot to write the 3 in the 3/8 on the centre front edge as I was saying it, or it’s just hard to see! (On second look, I think you’re right! I said 3/8 but I only wrote /8!) So yes, it should say 3/8 on the centre front to balance the 3/8 on the side seam. Add the 1/8 in the neck/shoulder. 1:8 + 3/8 = 4/8 = 1/2. Sorry for any confusion!
@@CatherineSews thank you for responding :) i got confused because the horizontal lines at the top of the bodice all equal 1/2 inch to balance the bottom. So i was expecting the left side vertical lines to equal 1/2 and the right side to equal 1/2. I was doing 3/8+1/8=7/16 of an inch. Because i wasn’t getting 1/2 inch on the vertical like i got on the horizontal i got lost.
I still grade by hand 🙂
Yes, sister!! We must be from the same generation!
A tad confusing when you say slide down, but move the original pattern piece to your right.
Thank god for RUclips tho!!
Try rubbing alcohol to remove permanent marker from your ruler.
Hey Catherine, I wanted to know how do you grade a pattern that has darts? Where do you put/move the darts to?
Great question! You want to keep the dart directed to the bust point, so the safest route is to split your grading increment and put half before the dart and half after.
I need someone to coach me for pattern grading by Gerber or whatever? Do you think we can have a meeting online! Please let me know.
God bless
I hope this isn’t offensive but things used to be so less confusing technology has arguably complicated my life entirely
What irks me is if I find something that fits my middle, the neckline is like a dinnerplate. What's with explanding the neckline on women's wear???! Men are the ones whose necks get larger, not women.
Sorry I got lost
I see why it's done by computer. Yikes
Not clear exzplain